>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 151 - AVS Forum
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post #4501 of 5409 Old 06-27-2008, 08:04 PM
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I've had my WD-62628 since October 2005 and it's been acting up the last couple of days. Wouldn't turn on and the wife and daughter said the green LED was flashing. When I tried I had to unplug and reset and it worked fine after that. The lamp brightness is good after it warms up. Using Menu 2470 I get 07067 06862 00006 00199 00000. I assume I've got 7067 hours which is a pretty long life on the original blub. Not sure why the other numbers aren't zero since the bulb was never replaced. Anyway - I guess I'll buy the 915P026010 bulb and wait for the lamp to fail

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post #4502 of 5409 Old 06-28-2008, 12:25 PM
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A noobie question from a new Mitsu 1080p DLP owner: I just bought a Mitsu WD-y657 for cheap from circuit city. Yesterday I performed the electrical tape fix to the wiring on the ballast and I had to take the lamp out, which I did very carefully. Immediately afterward I put it on a new TV stand that finally came in. While watching a bluray last night I noticed the picture was beautiful, but I couldnt help but notice a soft glow coming from the rear of the dlp near the lamps door. I dont mind as its not bad, but I dont remember noticing it the night before and I'm wondering if it's normal or maybe I didnt put the lamp back in correctly. Excuse my noobness, but I'm new to dlp's.
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post #4503 of 5409 Old 06-28-2008, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FiosFNFT View Post

A noobie question from a new Mitsu 1080p DLP owner: I just bought a Mitsu WD-y657 for cheap from circuit city. Yesterday I performed the electrical tape fix to the wiring on the ballast and I had to take the lamp out, which I did very carefully. Immediately afterward I put it on a new TV stand that finally came in. While watching a bluray last night I noticed the picture was beautiful, but I couldnt help but notice a soft glow coming from the rear of the dlp near the lamps door. I dont mind as its not bad, but I dont remember noticing it the night before and I'm wondering if it's normal or maybe I didnt put the lamp back in correctly. Excuse my noobness, but I'm new to dlp's.

There is a slight glow. No need to worry. If you didnt put door on right you would know. The set is so huge I cant see mine unless I look from the side.

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post #4504 of 5409 Old 06-28-2008, 03:30 PM
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Thanks for the reply. The bad thing is that the glow ever so slightly lights up the cabling nightmare behind my tv lol. I should have gotten a different type of stand where I cant see the wall behind the tv in between the shelves.
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post #4505 of 5409 Old 06-28-2008, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by FiosFNFT View Post

Thanks for the reply. The bad thing is that the glow ever so slightly lights up the cabling nightmare behind my tv lol. I should have gotten a different type of stand where I cant see the wall behind the tv in between the shelves.

YW. Mine sits on a stand only and I dont see it from the front at all.

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post #4506 of 5409 Old 07-03-2008, 03:58 PM
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I've been following this thread prior to purchasing my 62828 in Jan 06. Last week my orig bulb went out but I had a replacement with housing ready and waiting.

Since I had two housings (the original and the new) after installing the new housing and bulb I ordered an Osram bulb. The plan is to put it in the original housing and be ready in 2.5 years (hopefully the new bulb lasts that long again).

The new Osram bulb is the identical same model, and has the semi-cirular "vents" (these were referenced in previous posts ) and is, in every respect, as far as I can tell spot on identical to the original bulb.

Here's the problem, and the basis for my qustion. The "lid" to the housing (the part you have to remove to access the bulb itself) will not close properly. The two screws will fit and you can secure the "lid" however it is not aligined at the top (where the circular slot on the lid slips over the post on the base of the housing.) The lid remains approx 1/8" above the base, despite being attached via the screws. I've spent 45 minutes looking for the spot where the lid may lack clearance, but have been unsuccessful.

Has anyone else encountered this issue? If so how did you resolve it? Thanks.
KB
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post #4507 of 5409 Old 07-03-2008, 05:16 PM
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My DLP is not quite 3 years old. Today, it emitted an unhealthy "bang" and the image now resembles a flickering sepia-tone nickelodeon* movie. I can only guess the color wheel flew apart, a thing I find hard to believe. Things like that should never come apart. Nonetheless, what is the part number for the wheel assembly? I see a variety of part numbers that "fit HL-R" series but it would be nice to know the preferred part number.

Replacement does not look terribly hard, at least for someone used to hardware. I have an optically-flat surface I could try to rebuild the old wheel on, too, but its just easier to buy a new one. Thanks in advance for whatever reply/thread redirects folks can offer.

/**/

*not the TV channel, the actual old-school look-in-to-see-it personal film viewer that one used a nickel to view some short movie as seen in the first half of the 20th century in places like Coney Island.
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post #4508 of 5409 Old 07-03-2008, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCrow View Post

My DLP is not quite 3 years old. Today, it emitted an unhealthy "bang" and the image now resembles a flickering sepia-tone nickelodeon* movie. I can only guess the color wheel flew apart, a thing I find hard to believe. Things like that should never come apart. Nonetheless, what is the part number for the wheel assembly? I see a variety of part numbers that "fit HL-R" series but it would be nice to know the preferred part number.

Replacement does not look terribly hard, at least for someone used to hardware. I have an optically-flat surface I could try to rebuild the old wheel on, too, but its just easier to buy a new one. Thanks in advance for whatever reply/thread redirects folks can offer.

/**/

*not the TV channel, the actual old-school look-in-to-see-it personal film viewer that one used a nickel to view some short movie as seen in the first half of the 20th century in places like Coney Island.

OldCrow - I think you will get quicker and better responses if you post your question to the Sammy thread.
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post #4509 of 5409 Old 07-11-2008, 08:17 AM
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Originally Posted by JimVR4 View Post

I've had my WD-62628 since October 2005 and it's been acting up the last couple of days. Wouldn't turn on and the wife and daughter said the green LED was flashing. When I tried I had to unplug and reset and it worked fine after that. The lamp brightness is good after it warms up. Using Menu 2470 I get 07067 06862 00006 00199 00000. I assume I've got 7067 hours which is a pretty long life on the original blub. Not sure why the other numbers aren't zero since the bulb was never replaced. Anyway - I guess I'll buy the 915P026010 bulb and wait for the lamp to fail

i have the same exact set (bought in Nov 05). i think i've got less than 4000 hours on it. did you have an extended warranty on it? if my bulb lasts as long as yours, i think my extended warranty will have expired! where are you getting you new lamp?
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post #4510 of 5409 Old 07-20-2008, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by snuba View Post

i have the same exact set (bought in Nov 05). i think i've got less than 4000 hours on it. did you have an extended warranty on it? if my bulb lasts as long as yours, i think my extended warranty will have expired! where are you getting you new lamp?

I also have the same set (bought Sept '05). The lamp indicator went yellow tonight. I am currently at 7,000 hours on the original lamp. My extended warranty expires next year, but it does not cover the lamp. Did you get a new lamp? From where? How much? and Did you do it yourself?

Thanks.
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post #4511 of 5409 Old 07-20-2008, 08:56 PM
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Try these guys. Good distributor. Great warranty. They have a deal right now on this lamp.

http://www.exceldistributinginc.com/...ementlamps.htm

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #4512 of 5409 Old 07-21-2008, 05:30 AM
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Thanks Icaillo.

$125 is good for just the bulb. Remember to use latex gloves.
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post #4513 of 5409 Old 07-24-2008, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snuba View Post

i have the same exact set (bought in Nov 05). i think i've got less than 4000 hours on it. did you have an extended warranty on it? if my bulb lasts as long as yours, i think my extended warranty will have expired! where are you getting you new lamp?

I googled and managed to find the 915p026010 Osram lamp without housing on Amazon for $82 shipped. The retailer was River Valley Electronics. It's been here for a couple of weeks but I haven't installed it yet. It seems the 62628 is getting harder to turn on these days. There's a tiny reset button on the front panel that I keep having to use to make it respond to the Power switch. After pressing the power switch I get the flashing timer light and when it stops flashing I can Power up the set. Brightness is still good after all this which makes me question is the bulb is really failing. When I powered down the lamp LED was flashing and it appeared to be yellow so maybe that's my clue to install the new one. By the way my bulb came with a latex glove in the box too.

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post #4514 of 5409 Old 07-25-2008, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVR4 View Post

I googled and managed to find the 915p026010 Osram lamp without housing on Amazon for $82 shipped. The retailer was River Valley Electronics. It's been here for a couple of weeks but I haven't installed it yet. It seems the 62628 is getting harder to turn on these days. There's a tiny reset button on the front panel that I keep having to use to make it respond to the Power switch. After pressing the power switch I get the flashing timer light and when it stops flashing I can Power up the set. Brightness is still good after all this which makes me question is the bulb is really failing. When I powered down the lamp LED was flashing and it appeared to be yellow so maybe that's my clue to install the new one. By the way my bulb came with a latex glove in the box too.

are you saying you press the power button but there is no response from the TV?
you may want to try an software reset (resets all settings on the TV). press menu followed by 2470 and then press enter on initalize.

other than that i couldnt even guess at the cause.
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post #4515 of 5409 Old 07-25-2008, 10:28 PM
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I'm hoping someone in here knows what's going on...I didn't read through 151 pages...but I have the Mitsu 65734 (1080p) TV...I LOVE IT...however, I have an issue with the TV receiving a 1080p signal. I also have the Onkyo 604 receiver...HDMI from DVD player and Xbox360 running through the 604 to the TV. Problem is, when I run full 1080p from either the DVD player or 360 the TV will flicker on and off, as if it's having trouble keeping up with the signal. I tried wiring it directly from either source to the TV to see if the 604 was the culprit...I get the same thing. Anyone know what this is due to?! If I can't send 1080p signal...what's the point!? I'm going to get a bluray someday and don't want this issue...oh yeah, and when I reduce it back to 1080i (from either source), the flicker goes away...completely.

HELP! does something need to be fixed on the TV? I have a 3 year warranty on this thing from HHGregg, so any input would be helpful. Thanks!!!

mike
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post #4516 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 08:13 AM
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Please Help:
I have a Mits 1080P WD Y65 bought from CC November 06. I am glad I got the ext warranty, so they will help.

When I turn the TV on I hear a clicking noise then I get audio only for about 20 seconds, but no video. The TV then turns off. I don't see the lamp red light coming on. Any idea what it could be?

CC is "trying to locate" a team that will locate a serve rep. I looked in the book and found an authorized serve rep in 5 min. Never CC again.

Thanks
Imu

at somepoint you stop the research and just buy it
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post #4517 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Veloziraptor View Post

I'm hoping someone in here knows what's going on...I didn't read through 151 pages...but I have the Mitsu 65734 (1080p) TV...I LOVE IT...however, I have an issue with the TV receiving a 1080p signal. I also have the Onkyo 604 receiver...HDMI from DVD player and Xbox360 running through the 604 to the TV. Problem is, when I run full 1080p from either the DVD player or 360 the TV will flicker on and off, as if it's having trouble keeping up with the signal. I tried wiring it directly from either source to the TV to see if the 604 was the culprit...I get the same thing. Anyone know what this is due to?! If I can't send 1080p signal...what's the point!? I'm going to get a bluray someday and don't want this issue...oh yeah, and when I reduce it back to 1080i (from either source), the flicker goes away...completely.

HELP! does something need to be fixed on the TV? I have a 3 year warranty on this thing from HHGregg, so any input would be helpful. Thanks!!!

mike

how about the cable? you should use a 'high speed' cable if you want to run 1080p correctly.

if its not the cable then try the initialize that i mentioned in the post above yours. if it doesnt work, then you need to have the TV fixed.
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post #4518 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by imuesmail View Post

Please Help:
I have a Mits 1080P WD Y65 bought from CC November 06. I am glad I got the ext warranty, so they will help.

When I turn the TV on I hear a clicking noise then I get audio only for about 20 seconds, but no video. The TV then turns off. I don't see the lamp red light coming on. Any idea what it could be?

CC is "trying to locate" a team that will locate a serve rep. I looked in the book and found an authorized serve rep in 5 min. Never CC again.

Thanks
Imu

99% chance it is the lamp failure.
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post #4519 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

how about the cable? you should use a 'high speed' cable if you want to run 1080p correctly.

if its not the cable then try the initialize that i mentioned in the post above yours. if it doesnt work, then you need to have the TV fixed.


ok..I'll give the initialize a shot...but what's a high speed cable? i bought the HDMI cables from monoprice...I'm sure they are 1.3 HDMI's....maybe I'll go check out monoprice to see if they have both listed seperately. Thanks


edit: the initializing did nothing. didn't fix the problem
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post #4520 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

99% chance it is the lamp failure.

what does a "ballast failure" look like?? I had no dimming prior to total failure. The TV turns itself off after about 20 seconds. The red Lamp Indicator light does NOT come on while the TV is on.
Thanks for the reply--I hope its a simple thing like just the lamp failure so they can quickly replace it.
Imu

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post #4521 of 5409 Old 07-26-2008, 04:42 PM
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My first lamp died with less than 1000 hours and I had no warning at all. Even after everything got 98% dark I had no red light coming on. Second lamp is about 2000 hours and I already notice a much darker picture. This DLP technology sucks. (73927).

Sergio

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post #4522 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloziraptor View Post

ok..I'll give the initialize a shot...but what's a high speed cable? i bought the HDMI cables from monoprice...I'm sure they are 1.3 HDMI's....maybe I'll go check out monoprice to see if they have both listed seperately. Thanks


edit: the initializing did nothing. didn't fix the problem

ya..high speed cables are the same as 1.3 cables. low speed cables cant actually handle the bandwidth of the audio/video at 1080p.

I think sometiimes they worke, but it isnt ensured.

your problem must be something else ...
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post #4523 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 12:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

My first lamp died with less than 1000 hours and I had no warning at all. Even after everything got 98% dark I had no red light coming on. Second lamp is about 2000 hours and I already notice a much darker picture. This DLP technology sucks. (73927).

Sergio

well its a LAMP. as a lamps light extends...the brightness drops.
thats pretty logical...and actually has nothing to do with DLP technology.

you may want to check out some elementry sources of information on the subject such as ti.com. informing yourself is NOT a bad thing.
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post #4524 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 12:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imuesmail View Post

what does a "ballast failure" look like?? I had no dimming prior to total failure. The TV turns itself off after about 20 seconds. The red Lamp Indicator light does NOT come on while the TV is on.
Thanks for the reply--I hope its a simple thing like just the lamp failure so they can quickly replace it.
Imu

if ballast failure occured the red status LED would light red.

i think it depends on the model you have, but if lamp failed the red lamp led may not turn on until after 2 or 3 retrys.
even then..i think its not certain.

however, your description of audio with no video is nearly always the lamp.
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post #4525 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

well its a LAMP. as a lamps light extends...the brightness drops.
thats pretty logical...and actually has nothing to do with DLP technology.

you may want to check out some elementry sources of information on the subject such as ti.com. informing yourself is NOT a bad thing.

What's the intention of your post ? It's ridiculous. Obviously, a LAMP is part of the current DLP technology and one of the reasons why so many people here had so many problems with this kind of display. You are new here and probably have not been following discussions about lamp failure, dimming,blowing up on Mitsubishi TVs. I don't need a "source of information" to understand what a lamp is, maybe you need.

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post #4526 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Veloziraptor View Post

I'm hoping someone in here knows what's going on...I didn't read through 151 pages...but I have the Mitsu 65734 (1080p) TV...I LOVE IT...however, I have an issue with the TV receiving a 1080p signal. I also have the Onkyo 604 receiver...HDMI from DVD player and Xbox360 running through the 604 to the TV. Problem is, when I run full 1080p from either the DVD player or 360 the TV will flicker on and off, as if it's having trouble keeping up with the signal. I tried wiring it directly from either source to the TV to see if the 604 was the culprit...I get the same thing. Anyone know what this is due to?! If I can't send 1080p signal...what's the point!? I'm going to get a bluray someday and don't want this issue...oh yeah, and when I reduce it back to 1080i (from either source), the flicker goes away...completely.

HELP! does something need to be fixed on the TV? I have a 3 year warranty on this thing from HHGregg, so any input would be helpful. Thanks!!!

mike


anyone else?
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post #4527 of 5409 Old 07-27-2008, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVR4 View Post

I googled and managed to find the 915p026010 Osram lamp without housing on Amazon for $82 shipped. The retailer was River Valley Electronics. It's been here for a couple of weeks but I haven't installed it yet. It seems the 62628 is getting harder to turn on these days. There's a tiny reset button on the front panel that I keep having to use to make it respond to the Power switch. After pressing the power switch I get the flashing timer light and when it stops flashing I can Power up the set. Brightness is still good after all this which makes me question is the bulb is really failing. When I powered down the lamp LED was flashing and it appeared to be yellow so maybe that's my clue to install the new one. By the way my bulb came with a latex glove in the box too.

As a follow up, I did replace my lamp yesterday. Prior to replacement Menu 2470 revealed 07201 06996 00006 00199 00000. I then reset the lamp reminder through NetCommand and the second number went to 00000 so now I know that its the second number that logs the number of hours on the lamp. I believe the flashing yellow is simply programmed to appear after a set number of hours. Unfortunately my issues with the 62628 have not changed as a result of lamp replacement - the original lamp was still going strong after 6996 hours. The problem is the unit sometimes cannot be turned on until after a reset / flashing green sequence. I also tried the Initialize command which turned out to be a BIG mistake. It caused me to have to rebuild all the NetCommand settings for all my equipment and of course had no affect on my problem. Thanks for the "help" TrapperJohn

Mitsubishi WD-65736
Comcast 6412 II
Denon AVR-3801
Denon DVD-3300
KEF-RDM2 x4, KEF-100 Center
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post #4528 of 5409 Old 07-28-2008, 05:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimVR4 View Post

As a follow up, I did replace my lamp yesterday. Prior to replacement Menu 2470 revealed 07201 06996 00006 00199 00000. I then reset the lamp reminder through NetCommand and the second number went to 00000 so now I know that its the second number that logs the number of hours on the lamp. I believe the flashing yellow is simply programmed to appear after a set number of hours.

The five numbers displayed are:

1. Total time TV has been turned on
2. Current bulb hours
3-5 Previous bulb hours

On older models (mine is 52627) the yellow blinker was set to turn on at 4000 hours. Not sure about current models.
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post #4529 of 5409 Old 07-28-2008, 06:20 PM
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Originally Posted by trapperjohnMD View Post

well its a LAMP. as a lamps light extends...the brightness drops.
thats pretty logical...and actually has nothing to do with DLP technology.

you may want to check out some elementry sources of information on the subject such as ti.com. informing yourself is NOT a bad thing.

Are you trying to refer to the brightness of an arclamp dwindling over time with use? or making a point about the intensity of light from a point source as you move away from the source?

DLP technology relies on a light source, and is certainly related to the lamp in your set (in a practical sense), since almost all DLP sets sold to consumers use lamps, instead of LED's or LASERs as light sources.
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post #4530 of 5409 Old 07-28-2008, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

What's the intention of your post ? It's ridiculous. Obviously, a LAMP is part of the current DLP technology and one of the reasons why so many people here had so many problems with this kind of display. You are new here and probably have not been following discussions about lamp failure, dimming,blowing up on Mitsubishi TVs. I don't need a "source of information" to understand what a lamp is, maybe you need.

you were slamming DLP because your lamp failed. DLP can use other light sources besides lamps.

im not here to defend TI but saying "DLP technology sucks" because your lamp died is like saying hamburgers suck because mcdonalds puts pickles on them. If you dont like pickles...get a hamburger without them.
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