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post #4771 of 5409 Old 04-02-2009, 06:43 AM
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I have a 2080 and a 2160 that I have gotten a lot of great use out of.

I also have an unopened 2160, and a couple of brand new unused 500GB imaged drives that will work in any of those Indigita-based units. PM me if anyone is interested.
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post #4772 of 5409 Old 04-02-2009, 06:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

You are giving up on the Mits?

No Way! Just on TVGOS. With a dual-tuner TiVo HD, I have no use for the 2080.
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post #4773 of 5409 Old 04-02-2009, 07:06 PM
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I have a problem with my TV and hope someone on here can help. I bought a Mitsubishi 73736. From day one the picture will "fracture" in to 20 or so vertical lines. A rest fixes it, but it does it once or twice a day.

Anyone know what that is?

Or how to fix it?
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post #4774 of 5409 Old 04-03-2009, 03:54 PM
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I have a WD-65835 and it is plugged into my Pioneer receiver then to my DTV receiver via HDMI cables. Sometimes when I turn the system on the sound comes on and I get a blue screen. I have to unplug the monitor out HDMI cable and plug it back in to get picture. What would cause this problem? All of the stuff is brand new, all within a couple of months.
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post #4775 of 5409 Old 04-05-2009, 09:54 PM
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I've been having this problem since I purchased my Mits WD-57831 and had my set in the shop for it. Mitsubishi blamed everything from my cables, DVR, A/V Receiver and Comcast for the problem. I now know it's the Mits TV.

Sound dropouts intermittently (about 1-2 second at a time) only when outputting multi-channel (i.e. Dolby Digital 5.1) audio on HD broadcasts (OTA & Cable, live or played back over firewire) from the Mits digital audio output to my A/V receiver. My AVR shows the LFE signal disappearing when the sound drops out.

I discovered this since I just got a TiVo HD and have been using it exclusively now for watching both OTA & Cable HD. The TiVo video connects to the Mits via HDMI and TiVo audio connects to my AVR via digital optical. TiVo live and recorded playback are flawless, just like I expected the Mits to be.
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post #4776 of 5409 Old 04-06-2009, 05:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwall23 View Post

I've been having this problem since I purchased my Mits WD-57831 and had my set in the shop for it. Mitsubishi blamed everything from my cables, DVR, A/V Receiver and Comcast for the problem. I now know it's the Mits TV.

Sound dropouts intermittently (about 1-2 second at a time) only when outputting multi-channel (i.e. Dolby Digital 5.1) audio on HD broadcasts (OTA & Cable, live or played back over firewire) from the Mits digital audio output to my A/V receiver. My AVR shows the LFE signal disappearing when the sound drops out.

I discovered this since I just got a TiVo HD and have been using it exclusively now for watching both OTA & Cable HD. The TiVo video connects to the Mits via HDMI and TiVo audio connects to my AVR via digital optical. TiVo live and recorded playback are flawless, just like I expected the Mits to be.

Were you using a cable card, QAM or an antenna?
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post #4777 of 5409 Old 04-06-2009, 10:08 AM
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Just thought I'd post here even though I started a new thread, my apologies if this is a no, no (somehow I missed this thread when I did search).

I'm having a weird issue with my Mitsubishi WD-65733. The past few weeks the screen seems to be flickering at random times. It's especially noticeable on lighter scenes when it's occurring. I'm not sure I'm describing it properly but at first I thought it might my ceiling fan reflecting on the picture (no such luck though, it still appears with the fan off). Do this sound like a flicker that might indicate the lamp is going out? I've had the TV 2 years and it's used pretty heavily, so I assume its about time. Is there any real indicator, like an LED warning light or counter on the TV I could check? Finally, assuming it is the lamp, is it end user replaceable? Thanks in advance!
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post #4778 of 5409 Old 04-06-2009, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allargon View Post

Were you using a cable card, QAM or an antenna?

Short answer - all of them.

First noticed it on Cable w/CC since I can't get HD Theatre via Clear-QAM or OTA.

Then removed the cablecard and test recorded the networks and compared them with the networks OTA.
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post #4779 of 5409 Old 04-18-2009, 04:10 PM
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Hello fellow Mitsubishi owners,

I have a WDY57 model 57" HD DLP TV and I am having a problem and am wondering if anyone has any insight.

Its about 3 years old and today it just turned off like the power got cut off. I say this because there is no green or yellow blinking lights. In the past I have had problems with heat and whatnot and have replaced the light bulb and the fan so far. Usually it would say it was about to shut down due to overheating but that stopped once a technician replaced the fan.

Lately its been turning off and giving me a blinking green light and id have to wait a few seconds to turn it back on again. It started doing that every other day and then it became more frequent to the point it doesnt turn on at all. Ive tried leaving it unplugged to no avail and it seems like its getting no power even plugged in, no lights or clicks or anything.

Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe even a number to call for a repairman. Thanks!
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post #4780 of 5409 Old 04-18-2009, 06:29 PM
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have you changed the lamp? Blinking light can mean the lamp needs replacing.

was the picture progressively getting darker over the past few weeks?

did you reset teh tv?
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post #4781 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 06:53 AM
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Bwall23... This sounds like an issue I had a long time ago which was fixed by a new update from Mitsubishi. Check to see that you have the latest update.
Gary

Here is some of my Stuff: Media Center Pc
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post #4782 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponnie1996 View Post

have you changed the lamp? Blinking light can mean the lamp needs replacing.

was the picture progressively getting darker over the past few weeks?

did you reset teh tv?

I have changed the lamp and the problem was the green light wasnt even coming on. Picture is just fine I think it is an overheating issue since I unplugged it and let it sit all day and opened the back panels and used compressed air to remove a lot of dust and now it seems to work. Or maybe it was losing its electrical connection due to the massive amount of dust on the boards and wires.

Ill update this if the tv acts up again but it seems like this may be a fix.
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post #4783 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 09:25 AM
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Hello all maybe you can help me out with a problem. I have a 65-831 and it seems that the screen is always in stretched mode. I have swapped Directv receivers just to double check. It is on all 4 sides where is there is something along the frame I cant see it. For example phone numbers on infomercials on the bottom of the screen. I cant find any setting on the TV where you can change aspect ratio or anything like that. I tried the system reset button on the front panel to no avail. Any Ideas would be much appreciated


Travis
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post #4784 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twarner776 View Post

I cant find any setting on the TV where you can change aspect ratio or anything like that.
Travis

??? What about the FORMAT button on your remote ?

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post #4785 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slimoli View Post

??? What about the FORMAT button on your remote ?


Sorry should have been more clear, I did go through the format settings on the remote. It is on Standard.
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post #4786 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 10:47 AM
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Sale on wd-73835 at 2499 down from 3499 about 10 days ago-open box. I guess due to 2009's on the way in a month and will be about 2999. Should I pull the trigger or wait for the new ones. Is there any difference between 73-835 and 73-837. Also are the monster powercenters to limit power surges worth it. Thanks
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post #4787 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 06:15 PM
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Just bought a 73736 tonight! Question is, I bought a floor model which I got for $1,700. Was I stupid to buy a floor model...I really debated on it. I got the store to give me a 2 year warranty to includes 2 bulbs and 2 years of fixing any problems I may have? Deal or not???
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post #4788 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyrall View Post

Bwall23... This sounds like an issue I had a long time ago which was fixed by a new update from Mitsubishi. Check to see that you have the latest update.
Gary

It's a WD-57831 and has Netcommand v8.03 (I updated twice, from original 8.01 to 8.02 then to 8.03). Is v8.04 available?
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post #4789 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlfannin View Post

I have changed the lamp and the problem was the green light wasnt even coming on. Picture is just fine I think it is an overheating issue since I unplugged it and let it sit all day and opened the back panels and used compressed air to remove a lot of dust and now it seems to work. Or maybe it was losing its electrical connection due to the massive amount of dust on the boards and wires.

Ill update this if the tv acts up again but it seems like this may be a fix.

make sure the thermal sensor is not clogged with dirt/dust. that in the past has been a cause of the Mits shutting off. that is usually covered by an exception on the warranty.
u will usually get a OSD stating 'air flow blocked'.
call Mits cust svc with your model and serial number and c if u qualify for a 1 shot exemption. You did NOT purchase an extd warranty?
alan in cc, tx
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post #4790 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stlhawk View Post

Just bought a 73736 tonight! Question is, I bought a floor model which I got for $1,700. Was I stupid to buy a floor model...I really debated on it. I got the store to give me a 2 year warranty to includes 2 bulbs and 2 years of fixing any problems I may have? Deal or not???

buy a 5 yr extended warr if u r planning on keeping it over 2 years.
alan
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post #4791 of 5409 Old 04-19-2009, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsgerman View Post

Also are the monster powercenters to limit power surges worth it. Thanks

no
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post #4792 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 04:26 AM
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"Monster" anything isn't worth it!

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #4793 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 05:34 AM
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Thanks for the replies
Are any of these powercenters worth and if so what brand
I went ahead and bought the 73835. That is one big DLP going from a 55 Mits
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post #4794 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 06:55 AM
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I use one of this:

http://www.sellcom.com/brickwall.html#Order

Most "powercenters" don't make almost any difference but this one does. It's not fancy like the expensive high-end Monsters (the low-end is just a power strip) but it works .

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post #4795 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squidracer View Post

I have a WD-65835 and it is plugged into my Pioneer receiver then to my DTV receiver via HDMI cables. Sometimes when I turn the system on the sound comes on and I get a blue screen. I have to unplug the monitor out HDMI cable and plug it back in to get picture. What would cause this problem? All of the stuff is brand new, all within a couple of months.

I've been having a similar issue with mine as well, but coming from my HTPC.

If I switch the inputs with my logitech remote or my tv remote to the HTPC I get a blue screen, the notification window telling me what input I'm on, and then nothing. If I go to the back of the tv and unplug the HDMI and re-plug it back in I get my image, but it then tells me that I have an "Improper Signal" even though it's displaying the image. Now it may be because the HDMI cable is just a DVI-HDMI cable and isn't carrying any sound (that's processed separately from the HTPC via an optical output straight to the receiver). This is the only input I have this issue with, and it's repeatable 100% of the time.

Issue two (and related to the htpc) is that the image doesn't stretch all the way to the edges of the screen, in fact it's probably about a half inch to an inch short all the way around. I'm getting the full image, just a slightly condensed version of it. Any inputs on adjusting the size of the screen in any way through the actual tv? I've found the centering options it gives me for it being a pc and I'm still chasing down options on the input side of things.

Thank you in advance for any ideas, tips, or hints.
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post #4796 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsgerman View Post

Thanks for the replies
Are any of these powercenters worth and if so what brand
I went ahead and bought the 73835. That is one big DLP going from a 55 Mits

just buy one of those $15 ones at home depot. that should help double cover any lightening or other unusual spike in the AC line.
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post #4797 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 05:02 PM
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Lets see, you spend 3k on a tv but do not want to spend a few bucks to protect it? Add the cost of your receiver, blurays, game consoles and your system can easily exceed 10k. Mitsu warranty explicitly states does not cover power surges. Most extended warranty does cover power surges though.

Monster stuff maybe overpriced, but they do work. Like most better surge protector, the better ones also condition the power entering the tv. Each set of outlets have their own circuitry and are isolated from the other outlets to prevent interference. Also the better surge protectors guard against brown outs or under voltage which is just as bad as over voltage. The better surge protectors completely disconnect your system during an extreme voltage surge like a lightening strike. As an added convenience, they usually offer some sort of delayed sequential power up and down.

Open up those budget surge protectors and you will be amazed at whats is/is not inside. When I worked in electronics, you would be surprised on the number of units that fried during storms that were connected to those budge surge protectors...they do not work.

Also avoid computer surge protectors as their noise filters are not designed for audio and may even be detrimental.

For big screen tv, i usually would shy away from floor models. the 8 months on the floor can be equivalent to a life time of viewing. That is 12 hrs per day, 7 days per week. That is not the same for refurbs or customer returns that have limited time on them. For the right price i would jump on those.
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post #4798 of 5409 Old 04-20-2009, 06:56 PM
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Thank you rosros
You make some very good points. Can you please explain which units you feel work well and are worth the cost. I understand most feel that Monster cables and units are overpriced. Which would you buy. Thanks
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post #4799 of 5409 Old 04-21-2009, 08:41 AM
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I have a newbie question. I just bought a 65835 to replace my 6 year old Medallion 65". On my old RP there was a convergence screen in the menu. I can't find one on the new TV. Did DLP do away with convergence as I know it? If not, where is this in the menu?
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post #4800 of 5409 Old 04-21-2009, 09:07 AM
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No convergence adjustments with DLPs.

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