>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 169 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #5041 of 5409 Old 02-17-2010, 10:01 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Hipnotiq's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,160
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowchip View Post

I stumbled upon a web vendor that sells various components for TV's and they have light engines. The only problem is that I have a 52628 and of the 101 light engines they carry for Mitsubishi they don't have my model. Go figure. Does anybody know if the light engine for a 52528 would work?

Also, does anybody happen to have schematics of the tear down of the set to get to the light engine. If not I may just tear it apart and see what makes this sucker tick. : )

i know this reply is probably way to late, but a xx528 will definately not work. the 528 is an LCD based projection engine while the 628 is a DLP.

If you would have asked me 5 years ago I probably could have told you in great detail the differences between the xx627, xx628, xx827 and xx927.

I bet an engine from a 627 would work in an 628 tho.
Hipnotiq is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #5042 of 5409 Old 02-17-2010, 04:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Cowchip's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 214
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks Hipnotiq.
Cowchip is offline  
post #5043 of 5409 Old 02-18-2010, 05:52 AM
Newbie
 
Sirwriter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Covington, Louisiana
Posts: 12
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hyabusha,
Is there a site for the same kind of manual for a WD-65735? I would greatly appreciate it!

Sirwriter

"A little knowledge, a few tools, willingness to try new things, and a degree of product knowledge can spend as much money as your wife on a shopping spree"
Sirwriter is offline  
post #5044 of 5409 Old 02-18-2010, 01:53 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Hyabusha's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,465
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sirwriter View Post

Hyabusha,
Is there a site for the same kind of manual for a WD-65735? I would greatly appreciate it!

Sirwriter

Not sure which manual, but here's the site where you can get all your TV's Info.

http://www.mitsubishi-tv.com/support.html

Video Games, 3D, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

Hyabusha is offline  
post #5045 of 5409 Old 02-24-2010, 08:17 AM
Senior Member
 
scoombs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Baltimore/Washington Corridor
Posts: 428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am periodically having an issue with my WD-73927 where I will try to turn it on, and I get no response with either the remote or the power button on the front of the unit. Pressing the system reset button, or unplug/plugging the set back in (which does a reset) resolves the issue. It is happening every few days or so. Anyone have any thoughts?
scoombs is offline  
post #5046 of 5409 Old 03-01-2010, 11:40 AM
Newbie
 
techie-wb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've had this set since they first came out and have had a great experience with it despite some horror stories that I've read on here. I am over 20,000 hours and about to replace my 3rd bulb. I just bought a Sony BR and hooked it up with HDMI. Even with Brightness on 0 (Natural), the white level is way too high. I tried my Motorola DCH through HDMI and its the same issue (the HDMI cable from Comcast has the same issue) I am going to calibrate with AVS HD 709, but I can't imagine being able to fix it through normal setting adjustment.

Has anyone seen HDMI being too bright? I haven't seen this issue in the several hours of searching these forums. The component input is fine. My firmware is original (v30.....02 I think)
techie-wb is offline  
post #5047 of 5409 Old 03-02-2010, 04:33 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
1. Have you ever had anything else connected to that input?.
2. Was that device "too bright" also?
3. Have you tried another input?
4. Have you tried connecting that device to another set with HDMI inputs?

Looks as the level off that device is excessive.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5048 of 5409 Old 03-02-2010, 06:34 AM
Newbie
 
techie-wb's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

1. Have you ever had anything else connected to that input?.
2. Was that device "too bright" also?
3. Have you tried another input?
4. Have you tried connecting that device to another set with HDMI inputs?

Looks as the level off that device is excessive.

I first connected the cablebox with the comcast hdmi cable to both HDMI inputs. Now I have connected the blueray to both and the cablebox to both inputs with a different cable (Visio 1.3c). The results have all been the same. The devices connected with component cables look great. I only have this 1 set with HDMI, but considering its 2 devices and 2 different cables I'm assuming its the set. I emailed Mits and they said I should call them. I was waiting for the bulb to go, its over 7500 hrs.
techie-wb is offline  
post #5049 of 5409 Old 03-03-2010, 04:13 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
You have to have the record in lamp hours on a DLP.

Have you tried a test DVD and tweaked those inputs?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5050 of 5409 Old 03-03-2010, 10:01 AM
Newbie
 
dumacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I recently tried hooking up two different HK AVR's with hdmi switching. Using either input on the set, the signal looks over-driven with lighter areas completely lacking detail.

I was emailed by HK re: the 2600 avr that they are working on a fix.

Has anyone else had trouble with the original 1080p sets hooked up to one of the newest HDMI switching receivers.

I would like to try a Pioneer Elite SC-25,27 but the thought of returning another receiver really turns my stomach. Maybe time for a new set but,

I've had no problems for the last four years!!!!!

frustrated,

jhv
dumacker is offline  
post #5051 of 5409 Old 03-03-2010, 07:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
allargon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3,335
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumacker View Post

I recently tried hooking up two different HK AVR's with hdmi switching. Using either input on the set, the signal looks over-driven with lighter areas completely lacking detail.

I was emailed by HK re: the 2600 avr that they are working on a fix.

Has anyone else had trouble with the original 1080p sets hooked up to one of the newest HDMI switching receivers.

I would like to try a Pioneer Elite SC-25,27 but the thought of returning another receiver really turns my stomach. Maybe time for a new set but,

I've had no problems for the last four years!!!!!

frustrated,

jhv

Any AVR should work fine. The video processing on the HK AVR's is awful. I have a HK AVR 247 attached to my Mits 57732. Make sure the settings on the Mits are right, then adjust the video settings for the HK.

Did you ever clean the lens on your Mits?
allargon is offline  
post #5052 of 5409 Old 03-04-2010, 09:58 AM
Newbie
 
dumacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am sorry to hear that news about HK's AVR's. I've been a fan since I bought their cassette deck (first one out if memory serves) in 1967.

I guess I will go for that "bargain" Pioneer Elite.

My DLP has been a great monitor with the second lamp recently installed it provides a bright, clear picture.

But those new LED sets.... whoa!

Where can you find instructions on how to service mirrors et al.

thanks for your time,

jhv
dumacker is offline  
post #5053 of 5409 Old 03-04-2010, 10:12 AM
Newbie
 
bennieporter's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 13
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by dumacker View Post

I am sorry to hear that news about HK's AVR's. I've been a fan since I bought their cassette deck (first one out if memory serves) in 1967.

I guess I will go for that "bargain" Pioneer Elite.

My DLP has been a great monitor with the second lamp recently installed it provides a bright, clear picture.

But those new LED sets.... whoa!

Where can you find instructions on how to service mirrors et al.

thanks for your time,

jhv

"But those new LED sets.... whoa!"



You must have seen the price! LOL!!
bennieporter is offline  
post #5054 of 5409 Old 03-06-2010, 07:11 AM
Member
 
meverly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey Guys,

The other night, I came back into the room and my WD57831 had shut down, and I noticed the Red Lamp light on. I figured the lamp had finally went as it is the original with around 4k hours. So, for the heck of it I hit the TV reset button, and the set started working again. But, last night, I noticed the lamp hours had reset, as I now only show 15 hours on the lamp.

Anyway, has anyone else experienced this?
meverly is offline  
post #5055 of 5409 Old 03-06-2010, 09:37 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
I have reseted my set more than once and the lamp hours never reset back to zero. Which reset procedure did you use?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5056 of 5409 Old 03-07-2010, 09:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
nc88keyz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,062
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 15
I have a WD-73835

The 73835 has about 3780 hours on it. Its starting to look dim in the daylight. I think it has definately lost brightness. Is this normal around this timeframe as far as bulb life. I know its rated for 6000 HRS but its definately lost the oomph and brilliance.

I only had one other bulb but it bit it prematurely inside warranty and was quickly replaced as a courtesy from Mits.

Is this the end.......

Is it time to replace the bulb.

We usually watch on standard bulb energy mode, and fast power on. The set is connected to a UPS as well.

I see mits sells for $107 with housing shipped to NC>

I think that is a great price from what i see. Sure i could save 17 and buy just the bulb.....but i might like having a spare housing.

nc88keyz is offline  
post #5057 of 5409 Old 03-07-2010, 04:03 PM
Member
 
meverly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 56
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I have reseted my set more than once and the lamp hours never reset back to zero. Which reset procedure did you use?

Just the little reset button on the front of the set. Weird huh?
meverly is offline  
post #5058 of 5409 Old 03-08-2010, 06:51 AM
Member
 
MStem's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 138
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am considering the purchase of a Mits WD-60C9 (or the 65 version... would like to do a little research first. Please advise if I am in the right discussion? Thanks!

Mike
MStem is offline  
post #5059 of 5409 Old 03-09-2010, 06:38 AM
Advanced Member
 
hancox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monroe, CT
Posts: 551
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hancox View Post

You 73927 guys have had a rough go of it. Good luck.

My 62927 is on its 2nd LE, and still going strong (although in need of a new bulb shortly, after 2+ years)

Argh. I may have jinxed it - showing signs of warhol-izing the picture again, after a fresh bulb.

Hopefully calms down after the bulb breaks in, but who knows.
hancox is offline  
post #5060 of 5409 Old 03-22-2010, 02:45 PM
Member
 
Ianscloset's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Tempe, AZ
Posts: 147
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Hey Guys,
I have a quick question and was wondering if you could help me out... I have had the WD-65733 since January of 2008, and just noticed that the screen in constantly flickering... which I am assuming means I need to replace the bulb (2+ years out of it was pretty good!), but I am not quite sure what I need to do to replace it?

I know how to open the tv, but I was doing some research online and found out that there is the DLP Bulb AND a Cartridge... How do I know which one (or both) needs to be replaced? The flickering is also much more obvious on the left side of the screen, and I thought that the bulb should be even light on the whole tv, no?

Thanks a lot

I am officially seeing Purple
Ianscloset is offline  
post #5061 of 5409 Old 03-22-2010, 03:21 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mds54's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Silicon Valley, CA
Posts: 1,264
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I've never had the flickering, so I can't help you there.
But I just recently bought my first replacement lamp just to have it ready to go.
According to the experts here, you don't need both the bare bulb and the cartridge (I assume you mean housing module/cage?), BUT it's easier to install with the housing. You would have to slightly modify the bare bulb by itself. Here's where I bought mine:
http://shop.nextdaydlp.com/product.s...?productId=317
mds54 is offline  
post #5062 of 5409 Old 03-22-2010, 04:35 PM
Member
 
JohnDaddyo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Like the previous post said, you really do not need the cartridge, just the bulb. If you open the lid where your bulb is, you will see the back of the cartridge handle. You loosen the screws and simply pull it out. Everything is attached with screws, bulb included. The cartridge is easier, but cost more.
Whatever you're comfortable with.
JohnDaddyo is offline  
post #5063 of 5409 Old 03-23-2010, 04:33 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
1. It is a lamp.
2. The lamp sits inside a assembly that can be 'pulled out' by removing two screws.
3. The lamp itself can be replaced separately if you know what you are doing and take precautions since that glass envelop can explode if it hasn't already.
4. There is around a $40 saving if you just replace the lamp itself.
5. Lamp life can be as short as a couple thousand hours or as long as 7-9k hours.
6. As been posted before, MCM Electronics would be one source for replacement assemblies.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5064 of 5409 Old 04-20-2010, 02:39 PM
Advanced Member
 
hancox's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Monroe, CT
Posts: 551
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by hancox View Post

Argh. I may have jinxed it - showing signs of warhol-izing the picture again, after a fresh bulb.

Hopefully calms down after the bulb breaks in, but who knows.

Grrr. Maybe LE #3 for me. Man, these things suck.
hancox is offline  
post #5065 of 5409 Old 04-30-2010, 06:24 AM
AVS Special Member
 
allargon's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 3,335
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 13
Quote:
Originally Posted by hancox View Post

Grrr. Maybe LE #3 for me. Man, these things suck.

Ouch... I've had to clean my LE 3 times. However, I've never (knock on...) had to replace it.

I've replaced my bulb 3 times--the most recent being at 8549 hours.
allargon is offline  
post #5066 of 5409 Old 05-09-2010, 08:44 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
I have two DVR2160's for sale. One operates 100%, but the other has a bad interface board that I confirmed by swapping boards between the two.

Both drives have a copy of HD Net's test patterns (a 15 minute segment). Both also have very low hours. These work off of older Samsung, Mits and Toshiba TV's with 1394 ports.

PM me if interested.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5067 of 5409 Old 05-09-2010, 09:34 AM
Senior Member
 
scoombs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Baltimore/Washington Corridor
Posts: 428
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I have two DVR2160's for sale. One operates 100%, but the other has a bad interface board that I confirmed by swapping boards between the two.

Both drives have a copy of HD Net's test patterns (a 15 minute segment). Both also have very low hours. These work off of older Samsung, Mits and Toshiba TV's with 1394 ports.

PM me if interested.

And I have 500GB images that work in these units as well as the DVR2080 units. Any Indigita-based unit for that matter. If anyone is interested, PM me.
scoombs is offline  
post #5068 of 5409 Old 05-17-2010, 03:39 PM
Member
 
nd4spdbh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
OK guys i have had a Mitsu WD-62628 for some time now and am just building a htpc for it... I have hooked it up to hdmi 2 in pc mode and when i set my output to 1080p... the picture displays just fine but i get this in yellow writing at the bottom of the screen

"sync not known. if pc is connected, from the netcommand menu, add a pc"

You can get the warning to go away by pressing info twice or bringing up any menu... but i need this to be as simple as possible as its for my parents.

Ill play around with it some more but i dont understand why it would say such a thing even though its displaying the 1080p picture just fine.

Comp specs:
Intel E3300
2gb of ram
ati X1300 gfx
Win XP pro.

EDIT- the warning does go away after some time but its definitely annoying... and is there every time you switch to the pc.
nd4spdbh is offline  
post #5069 of 5409 Old 05-18-2010, 05:40 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 14,861
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked: 99
I think it's a glitch with the firmware. I never got that message, but I get a message about resetting Netcommand when I use certain buttons or a certain sequence from my universal remote. I just hit the "Exit" button.

What resolution is the PC set for? Is it something less than 1920x1080?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
videobruce is offline  
post #5070 of 5409 Old 05-18-2010, 10:09 AM
Member
 
nd4spdbh's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 62
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I think it's a glitch with the firmware. I never got that message, but I get a message about resetting Netcommand when I use certain buttons or a certain sequence from my universal remote. I just hit the "Exit" button.

What resolution is the PC set for? Is it something less than 1920x1080?

yup set at 1920x1080 60hz... the message goes away within a minute... but its kinda annoying.

i thought it might of been something to do with the fact it was an ati gfx card... always had problems with them n their drivers. so i grabbed my other htpc with an nvidia gfx card and the same message comes up.

btw is there any way to update the firmware on it?
nd4spdbh is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off