>>The Official Mitsubishi 1080p DLP Owners Thread<< - Page 175 - AVS Forum
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post #5221 of 5417 Old 02-23-2011, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hollywood165561 View Post

I have the 60738 model, and a PS3. I have not bought anything for it 3D related yet as I was saving up a few weeks for the kit. I just saw the update (12.07) now and it looks like I might not need everything in the kit anymore. So if I use my PS3 for 3D gaming and blu-ray movies, the only thing I need to buy now is just the dlp glasses? No adapter or emitter?

These are some that I saw another poster mention.....

Xpand 3D Shutter Glasses
Xpand X102 DLP-Link 3D Revolution Glasses - Blue
NXG Technology NX-3DG Active Shutter Type 3D Glasses

thanks for any help.

Hollywood, when you update your firmware to 12.07 you will only need DLP link 3D glasses to enjoy 3D content from your PS3. If you want to use the glasses you described above, you'll need to buy a 3D emitter separately.

Go with,

Optoma ZD-101s
XpanD x103s
Viewsonics

These are DLP Link glasses which require no emitter.

Video Games, 3D, and Home Theater Forever! ^_^

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post #5222 of 5417 Old 02-24-2011, 08:42 AM
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^ Thank you so much!
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post #5223 of 5417 Old 02-26-2011, 12:28 PM
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Was watching TV the other day and I noticed a black spot on my screen, a tiny spec. After wiping down the screen, not only was that spot still there, but there were 3 more I noticed.

The TV is a Mitsubishi 65737 DLP. Bought it last year.

I've already taken the bulb cage out and blew canned air all around it and inside, thinking it was dust on there.

Spots still there.

Any ideas?
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post #5224 of 5417 Old 02-26-2011, 02:07 PM
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1. A screen shot would help. Hoe large is this "spot"
2. It wouldn't be the lamp housing, but something in the optical path after the DLP.
3. Depending on how sharply focused they are, they might be on the outer lens assembly or on the inside surface of the screen itself.

Hopefully, lastly, they are not between the screens.

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post #5225 of 5417 Old 02-26-2011, 02:09 PM
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Thanks. I tried to post a link but it says I have to make three posts first...I guess I should be able to now?
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post #5226 of 5417 Old 02-26-2011, 02:09 PM
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post #5227 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 08:40 AM
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I hope this question is not out of line for this thread, but has anyone put together the significant differences between the 4 current DLP series (638, 738, 838, 837) 3DTVs from Mitsubishi ? I've been searching for over an hour without success.
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post #5228 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teapot View Post

I hope this question is not out of line for this thread, but has anyone put together the significant differences between the 4 current DLP series (638, 738, 838, 837) 3DTVs from Mitsubishi ? I've been searching for over an hour without success.

838 = shiny cosmetics, dynamic black, integrated 16 speakers surround sound, internet

738 = interent

638 = low cost option

837 = 2009 model, shiny cosmetics, dynamic black
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post #5229 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 11:14 AM
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Is it hard to change the bulbs on the 60c10 ?

Im never good at these things

I tried to add more ram to my pc & i messed that up
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post #5230 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post
Is it hard to change the bulbs on the 60c10 ?

Im never good at these things

I tried to add more ram to my pc & i messed that up
its about as simple as loading the dishwasher.
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post #5231 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post
Is it hard to change the bulbs on the 60c10 ?

Im never good at these things

I tried to add more ram to my pc & i messed that up
It's as simple as putting ram in a pc. No really it's quite simple especially if it's already in the housing which is how Mits sells them.
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post #5232 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 06:32 PM
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if is like this

than i can definitely do it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwpUigC1K-c
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post #5233 of 5417 Old 02-27-2011, 07:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TatorTot View Post

if is like this

than i can definitely do it

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwpUigC1K-c

Yes, but I would vacuum what you can before putting the new lamp in. And don't look dumb doing it like the guy in the video.
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post #5234 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 12:44 AM
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I just set up my Samsung HW-C770BS AVR. I have 2 hdmi inputs on it. One comes from the blu-ray and one from my directtv hdr. I have have an hdmi cable going from the monitor out on the AVR to the HDMI 1 input on my tv.It is the only thing connected to the tv. It works fine until I turn off my tv. After turning on the tv, I have to go to the input settings and enable hdmi 2 and set it to satellite. Then I have to unplug the hdmi cable from hdmi 1 on the tv to hdmi 2. Then it works again. It is almost like it is not remembering or that it is seeing the hdmi connection as an audio only. Any ideas how to fix this? Before I got the samsung AVR I was using a switcher and I had component connected to the tv and it worked fine with the switcher. Am I going to have to use the component on the AVR as well?

Mitsubishi WD-Y577
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post #5235 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 07:24 AM
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Anybody have a clue why my 60737 will no longer boot past the blue Welcome screen? The green light blinks rapidly but everythng is just froze. I have to hold the power button in for 10 seconds for it to shut down. TV will not react to any key combinations I've seen in the downloaded manual, doesn't recogbize the remote. Service guy is supposed to be here this afternoon, but I'm not sure if I'd rather just have them replace the TV. Manu date is Feb 2010. Buying through Aaron's so it is still under warranty.
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post #5236 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickself3 View Post

Anybody have a clue why my 60737 will no longer boot past the blue Welcome screen? The green light blinks rapidly but everythng is just froze. I have to hold the power button in for 10 seconds for it to shut down. TV will not react to any key combinations I've seen in the downloaded manual, doesn't recogbize the remote. Service guy is supposed to be here this afternoon, but I'm not sure if I'd rather just have them replace the TV. Manu date is Feb 2010. Buying through Aaron's so it is still under warranty.

Download and install the latest firmware from Mits site, if that doesn't work you need a new main board.
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post #5237 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by colour View Post

Download and install the latest firmware from Mits site, if that doesn't work you need a new main board.

Thanks, colour. Hopefully the service guy coming by this afternoon has the software to install the firmware upgrade. I found the Aaron's policy states if there is any 'work' involved, they have to take the TV. Bites.
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post #5238 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickself3 View Post

Thanks, colour. Hopefully the service guy coming by this afternoon has the software to install the firmware upgrade. I found the Aaron's policy states if there is any 'work' involved, they have to take the TV. Bites.

I wouldn't trust a TV tech to even turn it on much less install an update which is fairly simple. I replaced my main board myself one week after the warranty expired and one week before the update was released which supposedly fixes the "stuck on welcome screen" issue.

Even if it was under warranty I would have repaired it myself, had the part the next day and repaired in 15 minutes.

If it were me I would get ready to install the update myself, if they say the main board needs to be replaced don't let them take the set until the part comes in, meanwhile install the update if it's fixed cancel the service repair.
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post #5239 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 10:01 AM
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I wouldn't trust a TV tech to even turn it on much less install an update which is fairly simple. I replaced my main board myself one week after the warranty expired and one week before the update was released which supposedly fixes the "stuck on welcome screen" issue.

Even if it was under warranty I would have repaired it myself, had the part the next day and repaired in 15 minutes.

If it were me I would get ready to install the update myself, if they say the main board needs to be replaced don't let them take the set until the part comes in, meanwhile install the update if it's fixed cancel the service repair.

I'll see if that approach works. After all, I did find the update on the Mits website. But how this guy is going to know if the board needs to be replaced, it sounds like if they can't figure out the problem they'll take the set with 'em. I should mention that this is a rent to own. One year into the contract, I really don't want to bow out or frick it up now.
I'll suggest the update, which I already have downloaded and have ready to go.
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post #5240 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by rickself3 View Post

I'll see if that approach works. After all, I did find the update on the Mits website. But how this guy is going to know if the board needs to be replaced, it sounds like if they can't figure out the problem they'll take the set with 'em. I should mention that this is a rent to own. One year into the contract, I really don't want to bow out or frick it up now.
I'll suggest the update, which I already have downloaded and have ready to go.

That's just it I think these guys just guess or call Mits for suggestions to repair. My guess is the update will fix it. If it's rent to own shouldn't they just replace the set?
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post #5241 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 11:31 AM
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That's just it I think these guys just guess or call Mits for suggestions to repair. My guess is the update will fix it. If it's rent to own shouldn't they just replace the set?

That was my thought also. But the policy of Aaron's is to first try to fix and then replace. Oh, and while they have it out for repair, they supply a used 32" if they have one around.
Hoping I can talk this repair guy into trying the update first.
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post #5242 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 02:45 PM
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Well, the repair guy only knows how to drive the truck. His orders were to pick the set up. Aaron's schedule for sending out for repairs is Wednesday. We're out for 10 days. 10 days of 32" standard def.
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post #5243 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 03:08 PM
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Originally Posted by rickself3 View Post

Well, the repair guy only knows how to drive the truck. His orders were to pick the set up. Aaron's schedule for sending out for repairs is Wednesday. We're out for 10 days. 10 days of 32" standard def.

Should have done the update yourself.
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post #5244 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 03:14 PM
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Ya, regretting not doing so. I figured they'd void the warranty, but then they would not have been called. Good old hindsight.
Thanks for you input, colour.
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post #5245 of 5417 Old 02-28-2011, 11:18 PM
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any ideas on these spots?

http://i51.tinypic.com/2aih9uw.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/abqd6o.jpg

They're the same distance apart and the same size, so I'm really starting to doubt it's dust. I opened it up via the access holes and there was nothing on the actual screen, blew canned air all around and no reduction/motion of the spots.

Is this thing just dying?
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post #5246 of 5417 Old 03-02-2011, 08:20 AM
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The pictures are not very clear. But on a couple of the spots they look very pixel shaped. Maybe you have a few micro-mirrors that have died???

Better to want what you don't have, than to have what you don't want!

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post #5247 of 5417 Old 03-02-2011, 08:58 AM
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The pictures are not very clear. But on a couple of the spots they look very pixel shaped. Maybe you have a few micro-mirrors that have died???

I think his problem has been answered in another thread he posted.....his LE needs replacement.
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post #5248 of 5417 Old 03-02-2011, 07:15 PM
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I have a WD-65831 Mits DLP and the lamp light goes red after 20 mins. But it will come back on. I have replaced the lamp about a year ago, so I suspect it is NOT the lamp (thou high usage load may effect this). Instead I think it could be the thermal sensor issue as noted by Mits. However, I have not seen anyone post on how to fix this and would like NOT to have to pay a technician to fix it. Especially when I read some reports that the sensor simple needed to be reseated. Does anyone have an idea how to do this?
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post #5249 of 5417 Old 03-17-2011, 07:21 PM
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From the looks of your pix you have persistent black dots. Soon you will see more and maybe even white dots on dark screens. In my case I ended up with about a couple hundred of each and made viewing impossible. Diagnosed as bad light engine. Replaced for $500 to new model 738.

Hope that helps Brownthunder...
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post #5250 of 5417 Old 03-17-2011, 08:20 PM
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BrownThunder; From the closeup of the 2nd attachment, it surely doesn't look like a pixel problem since the specs are oblong, not square or round.

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