Just what's inside a 'G' series JVC D-ILA? - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 144 Old 01-07-2006, 12:52 PM
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I also need to know this. My entire screen needs to move down about a half inch or so. I don't need to align the RGB, but in fact need everything to move. In the user menu you can adjust the screen up or down, but it only moves one notch and that is not enough. Is there any way to move it more through the service menu?

On my 52Z575 I press 9 on the remote when I am in the service menu, That brings up the convergence adjust screen pressing Display will cycle through R,B and RGB. RGB adjusts the screen position up, down, left and right using the Channel +- and Volume +- keys press the menu key when your finished.
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post #62 of 144 Old 01-07-2006, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by egore View Post

On my 52Z575 I press 9 on the remote when I am in the service menu, That brings up the convergence adjust screen pressing Display will cycle through R,B and RGB. RGB adjusts the screen position up, down, left and right using the Channel +- and Volume +- keys press the menu key when your finished.

Thank you, Thank you!!!. That is exactly what I needed to know. Maybe I just didn't read it right before, but I didn't know that "Display" on the remote cycled through the RGB. That did the trick. Someone else mentioned we had to press "mute" to make it stay. Is that true? Now, how about the Geometry settings? These instructions need a sticky!

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post #63 of 144 Old 01-07-2006, 03:14 PM
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The adjustments for convergence and screen position are recorded at once just press menu to exit the screen when your finished. Be careful not to press the sleep timer button by mistake because that resets every thing to before the factory adjustment was made, I pressed the sleep timer by mistake once and my screen position shifted 8" to the top left.
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post #64 of 144 Old 01-14-2006, 02:49 PM
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As I'm sitting here with no TV on playoff weekend (52G786-bulb blew 2 days ago) I'm looking at this shattered bulb and thinking there must be a place I can buy just the bulb (or a comparable one) and solder the connections and be up and running. I did a little bit of re-searching and found a few places to buy just the lamps (seems the prices are MUCH cheaper), but of course the numbers on the OG lamp are of no use for cross reference. I have found a few that are the same size but not sure of the Voltage, Wattage, Lumen, Arc length, etc. Also I found a bunch of bulbs on the Best Buy parts site that use the qll01XX-XX part numbers (the number on my bulb is qll0160-02) but none of them match mine. Just a thought for when these bulbs are no longer covered under Warrenty. And if anyone knows the relative specs for the bulb (Voltage, Wattage, Lumen, Arc length, etc.) please share!
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post #65 of 144 Old 01-14-2006, 03:47 PM
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I would like to be able to replace just the bulb itself, however, I don't think soldering would work. Those things get pretty hot, connections might become resistive and cause further problems???
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post #66 of 144 Old 01-15-2006, 05:44 AM - Thread Starter
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I have only seen one of these lamp assemblies (from another set). It appeared to be a housing for the lamp. Just replaceing the lamp itself really wouldn't save you much and surely isn't worth it. IF that could be done & IF you could find the EXACT lamp.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #67 of 144 Old 01-23-2006, 03:09 PM
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True, I guess I was trying to find a cheaper way to fix these when I have to start paying for them...
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post #68 of 144 Old 03-24-2006, 04:36 PM
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videobruce,

Just found this marvelous thread. I was unable to find a similar "what's inside" thread for the 1080p sets. Any news?

Thanks!

Mark
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post #69 of 144 Old 07-21-2006, 12:59 PM
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Does somebody know how to learn the lamp life for JVC G787/887?
I used the instructions in this thread and went to the Service mode and pressed [4].
According instructions, the screen should look like this:

D070 06
006 06 0000 0110
D071 73
115 73 0111 0011


Instead, I got this:
A0000 00
075 4B 1001 011


The second line still looks right e.g. decimal, hex and binary representation of a number. But that's it - mo more info. However, if I repeat this operation e.g. [BACK][4], a different info is displayed: A0000 64 or E0000 256 etc.
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post #70 of 144 Old 07-21-2006, 01:24 PM
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Looks like you have to navigate to the "D" register. You appear to be on the "a" register
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post #71 of 144 Old 07-24-2006, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the64gto View Post

Looks like you have to navigate to the "D" register. You appear to be on the "a" register

Thanks! But how do I do this? I tried "SLEEP TIMER" button but it didn't work.
Any suggestion, please?
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post #72 of 144 Old 08-10-2006, 02:11 PM
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I'm in the same boat as TheGTO64. Maybe I'm just stupid, but after I hit "4" and see a register (sometimes A000, sometimes T000, seems random) I can't cycle through them with the CH+/CH- buttons like the instructions say. I'm not sure how to navigate through the registers to find the lamp time register.
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post #73 of 144 Old 08-10-2006, 05:23 PM
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I just verified mine again and it works with the +ch and -CH buttons on my remote. Perhaps the remotes and sets are 'different" I have a 52g786 with the RM-C14G remote. I would not think that would make any difference???? Your are pressing 'sleep' followed by 'display & video status' buttons together. Items 1 & 2 & 3 should show on screen?? pressing '4' gives you what?
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post #74 of 144 Old 08-10-2006, 07:38 PM
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Looks like they changed the algorithm to find out the bulb hours in G787. I tried all of the buttons on remote but still can't switch among registers.
After pressing [4] I got 2 lines, something like this:

A0000 00
075 4B 1001 011
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post #75 of 144 Old 08-11-2006, 07:52 AM
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Yeah, I have the 787 like skovbasa and the CH+/CH- buttons do nothing. I do see the first three options on the screen, and when I press 4, it will show a register, but that's where the similarities with the 786 seem to end.
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post #76 of 144 Old 09-03-2006, 08:31 AM - Thread Starter
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It came to my attention that I forgot to add the LED trouble codes chart. here it is;
LL

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #77 of 144 Old 10-03-2006, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

It came to my attention that I forgot to add the LED trouble codes chart. here it is;

videobruce , do you have an updated info on 2006 model, e.g 787/887?
We're most interested in how to get the lamp life hours.
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post #78 of 144 Old 10-04-2006, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Have you seen the 1080 thread;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=638602

I assume the method posted here doesn't work with this years models?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #79 of 144 Old 10-04-2006, 06:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Have you seen the 1080 thread;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=638602
I assume the method posted here doesn't work with this years models?

Yes, I looked at that thread and it looks like it doesn't have any info on lamp hours.
And yes, 2005 year method doesn't work with this years models.
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post #80 of 144 Old 10-04-2006, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Why these manufactures are secretive about a user replaceable item is beyond me. This should be in the user screen.
Sorry, can't help. Try the owners thread.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #81 of 144 Old 10-27-2006, 04:14 PM
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Just though I could add something here,

I've seen a few posts asking what NG means...I workwith a lot of Japanese people and they use NG to mean 'No Good.'
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post #82 of 144 Old 11-07-2006, 03:57 PM
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Thanks for all this good info
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post #83 of 144 Old 12-25-2006, 05:01 PM
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I have the same problem with a lot of you on here. I took off my back panel just to look at the inside and now the HD does not work. After reading i found it is because i took off the back panel that it set some switch that shuts off the HDMI. I read a lot and found how to reset that switch but it includes going into the Service Menu. I might be totally missing something but i can't find how to access the Service Menu. Can someone please help.

Thanks
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post #84 of 144 Old 12-26-2006, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Look at post #13...............

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #85 of 144 Old 01-26-2007, 06:30 PM
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how does one go about purchasing a service remote?

Thanks
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post #86 of 144 Old 01-26-2007, 06:47 PM
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Thanks again for the great info, Bruce. What I would like to correct is the green overtones on gray areas (like a man's suit) in theater and theater pro modes ... any hints on what service setting to experiment with first ....

Second question, suddenly, after about three months of use, I'm getting a lot of very noticeable image retention on black areas -- like the moving image from the DVD screen saver leaves gray boxes all over the screen. They get overwritten by new images immediately, just as retained images are supposed to on LCoS sets, but since there were no retained images for the first threee months it seems odd.

Contrast and brightness are both below the mid-point and all the user settable image processing thingees (dynamic gamma, etc.) are off. Any clue to what's happening?

Thanks
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post #87 of 144 Old 03-04-2007, 06:20 PM
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God Bless this forum, the people who contribute and this thread in particular!!!

I have a JVC 52" and have not been able to get the Digital-In to work. Posted in a couple of places but it wasn't until I searched through the entire JVC thread and found a link to here did I finally (after two attempts) get my HDMI connection to work.

It just galls me that when you buy something like this TV, you still have to tweak, de-bug and generally redo things until you get what you thought you paid for...

Again, thanks to all!
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post #88 of 144 Old 03-05-2007, 05:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zettler View Post

God Bless this forum, the people who contribute and this thread in particular!!!

I have a JVC 52" and have not been able to get the Digital-In to work. Posted in a couple of places but it wasn't until I searched through the entire JVC thread and found a link to here did I finally (after two attempts) get my HDMI connection to work.

It just galls me that when you buy something like this TV, you still have to tweak, de-bug and generally redo things until you get what you thought you paid for...

Again, thanks to all!

What exactly did you have to do? I have the 52g786 and after I had figured out what the d/a button meant, everything worked as expected. Still have some issues with my cable box sa8300 and the hdmi handshake. The cable company BHN has gone thru 2 software updates and mine has gone from working to non-working. I have been using component, and to my eye no difference in PQ. Other current issue is the sound goes from 5.1 to 2 channel randomly. All supposedly the Sw in the 8300. OTA signals work perfectly.
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post #89 of 144 Old 03-05-2007, 06:26 AM - Thread Starter
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ekb6; Sorry I didn't see your posts. A "service remote"?? I'm not sure if there is one. I know the wording in the SM, but I believe it just refers to the user remote. Grey scale needs tweaking regarding the 'green' issue. Common to many TV's in the 'warmest' mode. I believe it would be post 15 'video settings 2' the RGB controls.

Jusy write down any setting you want to change first!

zettler; "Digital in" as in HDMI or the D/A button on the remote??

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #90 of 144 Old 03-05-2007, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

zettler; "Digital in" as in HDMI or the D/A button on the remote??


Thank you for responding so quickly!

The issue I was having was a crappy picture (IMO) since I bought the TV. We did not have "HD" through our local provider (Insight) and then I read a few weeks ago that if you ran a separate feed cable from the wall direct to the TV and another via the cable box, you would be able to get the channels being provided - and voila', I have HD channels on about 5 stations - all local.

Here I have had this TV since June of last year and now it is finally living up to its potential! Of course, this was concurrent with my coming here to read the primary thread, re-reading the instruction manual and finding out that the the "A/D" switch didn't mean "A/B" as my mind had been processing it (whatever that means) and meant "Analog" and "Digital"....

I felt like a moron!

So now I have the cable from the wall coming directly into the one input and then another cable coming in via the cable box to the other input on the JVC 52G786 and I am able to get fair quality.

I do notice on the signal strength reading it comes in as 73 and an occassionally 83 so I am wondering if we are still having problems with Insight from the street box to the house - they have been out a number of times over the past three years to change the cable, connectors and the like due to poor signal strength in the home.

So now I know the HD really works but that I had to scan the channels first under Analog and under Digital to find them - we are near a capital city (15 miles) but the ability to use the Zenith HD antennae to obtain a good signal is less than optimal (i.e., it sucks!).

Then, I purchased a Phillips upconverting DVD player and when I tried to use the HDMI connection from player to TV all I ever got was a green screen. The component video connection worked but I wasn't that thrilled with the picture and demanded more!

I wasn't sure it it was the cable, the DVD player or the TV - or whatever. Then, last night I "re-"discovered this thread and found the reference to the resetting of the "NG" for HDMI under the Service Menu. The first attempt did not do it but I tried again and IT WORKED!!!

Oh, joyous day!

Now I have HD channels (takes awhile to switch between them though as I am sure everyone experiences this issue) and HDMI capabilty through what is referred to in the MENU as "Digital'In" and it NOW works for my DVD player.

Next on my list is calibrating the color, resoultion and the like so it will be what I paid for last year, and just in time for the bulb to burn out - I am an "optimist".

Anyway, now I need a primer and a step-by-step guide on how to calibrate this TV to optimize the colors, clarity and resolution as I strongly feel that it should look better (in other words, the slight ghosting effect visable on many channels and DVD movies - especially the words - should go away.

So, in my long-winded way, I deeply appreciate this forum but I sure wish it had been easier to sort through all the posts to find what I wanted and needed!!! The primary thread is over 1100 pages in MS Word (I downloaded it) and that is where I re-found the link to this thread which oipened the door to fixing the HDMI issue!

That is my story and I am sticking to it - for today at least!!!
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