Toshiba 50HM66, 56HM66 Discussion - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 1295 Old 12-31-2006, 07:38 PM
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(The best way is to invest in the high definition interface for the XBOX, if you can still get one. This provides component output. Connect to the component input on the Toshiba. You will then need to go into the XBOX menus and select 16x9 mode. I also have gotten better picture by selecting 1080i output...)

Where would you purchase this item?
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post #632 of 1295 Old 01-02-2007, 12:24 PM
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Well I think I may have out done myself... I absolutely love the 50HM66 but when I bought it I told the rep we only had 6-8 ft between couch and TV and apparently when he said that was plenty he was lying or ignorant... from what I,ve seen on here it should be 10-12 atleast... Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated, otherwise I guess I will have to exchange it for a 42" LCD ...
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post #633 of 1295 Old 01-02-2007, 01:11 PM
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I've seen on the internet suggested viewing distances ranging from 1.7 to 3 times the diagonal measurement, but all that really matters is what you find acceptable. We have a new 56" toshiba that we view from about 9 feet. It really helped us to turn lamp brightness to LOW ( default is high, I think), and view pictures in their native size, rather than artificially enlarging them to full screen. HD pics will naturally be full size, but have the resolution to support it. Also, you will likely get used to the larger size in a few weeks...so wait until then end of your exchange period prior to making a desiscion...
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post #634 of 1295 Old 01-02-2007, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newtvowner View Post

As far as stands go for the 50hm66 try target. I purchased this one with matching audio pier. It is very very sturdy and perfect size. You can catch it on sale for less than $100.
http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html...sin=B000B56G7A

jenichol how much are you looking to spend? Does it need to include DVD or do you have one already?

Check out the Athena Micra 6 home theatre speaker set. Great sound. You get two front, two rear, one center and sub for $349.00. You will find them selling for much more, but if you look at the right sites you can find them for the price above.


You can get a reciever for as little as $100-$200. BB has their own brand isignia that is really reasonably priced.

Thanks for the advice. Have a DVD/VCR player. Might be in the market for an HD DVD player in the near future but going to keep the one i have for now. Just got it last March. I am looking to keep it under $500 if possible so this would work. I will shop around for the best price. Saw a Phillips home theater system for $299 when at Home Depot this past weekend but not sure how good that one is.
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post #635 of 1295 Old 01-02-2007, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaclclHatter View Post

(The best way is to invest in the high definition interface for the XBOX, if you can still get one. This provides component output. Connect to the component input on the Toshiba. You will then need to go into the XBOX menus and select 16x9 mode. I also have gotten better picture by selecting 1080i output...)

Where would you purchase this item?

Well, I don't seem to find any Microsoft ones, but it appears that several companies, including Monster make aftermarket component cables.

I went to ebay and typed in "xbox component cable" and got many hits. I did the same on a google search and got several others. Some of these are very inexpensive. Things to note:

1. XBOX cable is not the same as XBOX-360. Get one for original XBOX.
2. Many of the cables have a simple 2 channel RCA output for audio. However some, including Monster have an optical out, at least in some models. Get what you need. The ones I saw that had optical did it with a little wart on the side of the XBOX end of the connector. The original one had a short cable that went to a breakout box. The breakout box then had RCA connectors for HSV as well as L+R audio and an optical socked for digital audio.
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post #636 of 1295 Old 01-03-2007, 05:31 PM
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Okay, I have another question. There appear to be spots to add a shelf to the top of the TV, but I've had no luck finding a shelf. I'm not comfortable just having the center speaker sit on top of the TV. I'd prefer to keep it up high as opposed to just setting it in front of the TV. Am I crazy or is there a shelf that can be added that would be used for like a satellite box or something. I would mount it on the wall behind the TV, but it's in front of 3 windows, and it's centered on a window, so there's really nothing to mount to.
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post #637 of 1295 Old 01-03-2007, 06:03 PM
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jayn_j Thanks for the help! It is greatly appreciated
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post #638 of 1295 Old 01-04-2007, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au01st View Post

...I've had no luck finding a shelf. I'm not comfortable just having the center speaker sit on top of the TV. I'd prefer to keep it up high as opposed to just setting it in front of the TV. Am I crazy or is there a shelf that can be added that would be used for like a satellite box or something. I would mount it on the wall behind the TV, but it's in front of 3 windows, and it's centered on a window...

I decided to explore outside the realm of center channel mounts. Depending on your speaker and window placement, you may be able to use a plasma or LCD articulated wall mount. You could get the kind that "swoops" down, thereby actually attaching the mount to the wall above the window, but allowing the actual orientation of the speaker to be closer to the set. The problem with those was that I couldn't find one that extended far enough out from the wall. So, here's what I use: my setup . (I bought mine at Wal-Mart a few years back, but I can't seem to find it on their site, so here's a similar product: AVF TV Wall Mount

It's gonna be tough to do if the set is directly centered on a window, though. As you can see with my setup, there are two windows behind the set, and there's about 3" of space between the two windows, allowing just enough room to install the mount.

I know you're not really looking to place the speaker directly on top of the set, but some people have had good success with this product: CCH1B

Remember you don't want the speaker too far above the screen, else you'll have problems with AV syncrony.
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post #639 of 1295 Old 01-04-2007, 11:30 AM
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Actually, that last piece is exactly what I'm looking for. I didn't want the speaker directly on the TV because the base of the speaker is wider than the top of the TV, and it overhangs on the front and back, and I fear that while watching a movie with some action scenes, or while listening to music, the speaker might fall off the front and swing into the screen, damaging it. Unfortunately I don't live near any Circuit City, but maybe Best Buy will have something like that I can use. Walmart and Target sure don't. Thanks!

edit: Best Buy appears to have what I need.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage....=1099395889869

Oh, and here's what I'm talking about, see how the speaker overhangs just a bit

http://www.zjstech.net/~library/9914...e/TVCenter.jpg

And finally, here's my "finished" setup. Nuthin fancy, just good picture and good sound, great for watching LSU whoop up on ND last night in HD. Geaux Tigers!

http://www.zjstech.net/~library/9914...ce/TVSetup.jpg
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post #640 of 1295 Old 01-04-2007, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by au01st View Post

...Unfortunately I don't live near any Circuit City, but maybe Best Buy will have something like that I can use...

...or you could just follow the link and order online.
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post #641 of 1295 Old 01-05-2007, 11:08 AM
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has anyone succesfully connected a pc via a dvi to hdmi cable to their 56HM66. I know the manual says not to, but... if you have the right 720p signal from the graphics card wouldnt it be ok? I am interested in running mythtv this way rather than through s-video at 480i.
Any advice/thoughts appreciated. Of course if someone has and has a working modeline for X than would be even better!
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post #642 of 1295 Old 01-06-2007, 12:01 PM
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Hello everyone. I have been lurking in this thread for nearly two months and have found the information shared here to be very helpful. I was just watching a recorded program on my Dish Vip622 Satellite DVR and the sound quit working. Thinking it was a problem with the program, I stopped and returned to liveTV. There was still no sound. I then switched to Ant 0 (static) and there still was no sound. I have a very simple setup. I have the 56hm66 connected to the previously mentioned satellite receiver and a Sansui VCR/DVD-R combo unit. There is no stereo, speakers, etc. Does anyone have any ideas to offer or should I immediately contact Toshiba? Thanks for your help.
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post #643 of 1295 Old 01-06-2007, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by tdan View Post

Hello everyone. I have been lurking in this thread for nearly two months and have found the information shared here to be very helpful. I was just watching a recorded program on my Dish Vip622 Satellite DVR and the sound quit working. Thinking it was a problem with the program, I stopped and returned to liveTV. There was still no sound. I then switched to Ant 0 (static) and there still was no sound. I have a very simple setup. I have the 56hm66 connected to the previously mentioned satellite receiver and a Sansui VCR/DVD-R combo unit. There is no stereo, speakers, etc. Does anyone have any ideas to offer or should I immediately contact Toshiba? Thanks for your help.

Do you know for sure that "Ant 0" makes sound anyway? Just to make sure...have you, in fact, checked to make sure its not isolated to your ViP622? (i.e. tried playing a DVD, etc.) The 622 is well known for doing just that...typically swapping the PIP (on the 622) resolves it, at least temporarily. But a sure fire resolution would be to reboot the 622 (hold down the power button for about 8 seconds or until the screen image goes blank).
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post #644 of 1295 Old 01-06-2007, 01:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

Do you know for sure that "Ant 0" makes sound anyway? Just to make sure...have you, in fact, checked to make sure its not isolated to your ViP622? (i.e. tried playing a DVD, etc.) The 622 is well known for doing just that...typically swapping the PIP (on the 622) resolves it, at least temporarily. But a sure fire resolution would be to reboot the 622 (hold down the power button for about 8 seconds or until the screen image goes blank).

Actually there are two failure modes for HDMI in the 622. The software one was supposedly fixed in the last rev. However, the solder connections from the HDMI connector to the board fail and that is a hardware failure that cannot be easily fixed. I would go and run an audio connection and try component cables instead. See if the sound works under these circumstances. Personally, I run everything through a receiver and ignore the TV sound.
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post #645 of 1295 Old 01-07-2007, 09:11 PM
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First of all let me start by apologizing for describing my problems with Ant 0. My problems were actually with Video 1. After I posted my question I did in fact switch to Ant 1 and successfully had sound with my DVD player. I called Toshiba who recommended I reset the TV by unplugging for at least 5 minutes. I unplugged the TV on my way out and when I returned I plugged back in. When I restarted the TV everything was back on track. Not sure how I feel about this incident. On one hand I'm happy that it is working properly again, but on the other hand I am worried that something is not right with my TV. Is this uncommon?
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post #646 of 1295 Old 01-09-2007, 05:02 PM
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I purchased my Toshiba from a local Best Buy but didn't purchase the PSP.

1) Does anyone know what the length of the Factory warranty is?

and

2) Does anyone recommend purchasing the PSP? My thoughts were that I'd probably only use it to replace a bulb and that at $250/bulb the $450 asking price was far to high. However after reading about some horror stories regarding other DLP's and the light wheel malfunction, etc... I'm starting to think the PSP would have been a good idea...

Thoughts?
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post #647 of 1295 Old 01-09-2007, 06:12 PM
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I did not buy a PSP with my set either when I purchased it. I found the price of the PSP far too high in relation to what I payed for the set.

I believe if you bought a model that was affected by the light engine defect (see earlier in this post I believe for the gory details about the shadow at the top of the screen) then you are covered for the life of the set.

If you wish to check to see if your set is affected by this defect put your serial number into this site.
http://www.tacp.toshiba.com/tacpasse...m66_56hm66.asp

I believe the standard warranty is 1 year on site. It is stated in your owners manual so have a quick look at that.

So far I've had my TV for about 3 weeks and I have absolutely no complaints. The picture quality is nicer than a lot of big screen TVs that friends and family have (even on Standard Def). The look of the set is really nice as well. I have no trouble recommending this set to anyone even with the slight concerns over the light engine defect that some have had. Very good TV for the money.
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post #648 of 1295 Old 01-09-2007, 08:32 PM
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I posted this before, but since it came up again, I thought I would mention that Bestbuy does sell these warrantys for 349.99 for a 4 year for tvs 1500-2000 dollars, when this 56hm66 went on sale for 1199, I got the 4 year warranty for 249.99 because that is the price for tvs 1000-1500 dollars. Considering a bulb for these is about 200 dollars, how could I go wrong? I feel I got a great deal, and better safe than sorry. Still the price of the tv (1199.00) and the extended warranty (249.99) is still less than the tv at its original price.
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post #649 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by jim6627 View Post

how could I go wrong?

After 4yrs and your PSP has expired, and the lamp still hasn't popped.

I doubt that they'll replace the lamp in a DLP after 4yrs if it hasn't completely popped. If it's only faded slightly (ie. less bright than new, which is likely going to be the case) then that's not really a warranty item.

Or, does the warranty say that they'll give you a new lamp whenever you want, no questions asked? I doubt it, because otherwise you could just get a 2nd one soon after purchasing and have it ready to go.
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post #650 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 12:32 PM
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If I wanted to get a DVD player, would it be better to get one with HD upscaling or to just let the TV do the upscaling?

Also, what would be the best way to hook up These Speakers? Thoughts? Basically just want to take them directly from the TV without a receiver
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post #651 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaclclHatter View Post

If I wanted to get a DVD player, would it be better to get one with HD upscaling or to just let the TV do the upscaling?

Also, what would be the best way to hook up These Speakers Thoughts? Basically just want to take them directly from the TV without a receiver


Unless I'm confused (which is possible...) this TV does not upscale, so you must get a DVD player with upscaling if that is what you wish...
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post #652 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by arf1410 View Post

Unless I'm confused (which is possible...) this TV does not upscale, so you must get a DVD player with upscaling if that is what you wish...

That's good to know... I thought most HD TV's upscaled themselves, but if it doesn't then you're right.
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post #653 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaclclHatter View Post

That's good to know... I thought most HD TV's upscaled themselves, but if it doesn't then you're right.

Forgive the misunderstanding of the definition of "upscaling", but if the TV has a native resolution of 720p, does it not have to, by its very nature, upscale or "downscale" all content to its native resolution in order for it to be visible?
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post #654 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 03:52 PM
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I've never heard of a TV with a native resolution of 720p. Its the incoming signal that has a native resolution. This TV will display a signal in 480i (Standard Def), 480p (DVD), 720P (HDTV) or 1080i (HDTV), depending on the source. SD at 480i on this TV looks considerabley worse than a HDTV signal, becuase you are actually viewing 480i, not an upscaled image. I have an upconverting DVD player, and I would say the signal is very marginally better when upscaled to 720P or 1080i from the native DVD resolution of 480P signal that has not been upscaled. The difference is not huge.

LCDs may have a native resolution of X x Y pixels, but there is no "P" or "i" involved
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post #655 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 04:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf1410 View Post

I've never heard of a TV with a native resolution of 720p. Its the incoming signal that has a native resolution. This TV will display a signal in 480i (Standard Def), 480p (DVD), 720P (HDTV) or 1080i (HDTV), depending on the source. SD at 480i on this TV looks considerabley worse than a HDTV signal, becuase you are actually viewing 480i, not an upscaled image. I have an upconverting DVD player, and I would say the signal is very marginally better when upscaled to 720P or 1080i from the native DVD resolution of 480P signal that has not been upscaled. The difference is not huge.

LCDs may have a native resolution of X x Y pixels, but there is no "P" or "i" involved

So am I better off spending the extra $100 for an upconverting DVD player or just going with a regular DVD player? How much improvement would you see with this TV?
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post #656 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 04:42 PM
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Extra $100? I thought you could get a decent upconverting DVD player for under $100?

The amount of improvement is very subjective. The improvement in upconverting a DVD is much less than the improvement going from SD to HDTV.
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post #657 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 04:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdiehl View Post

After 4yrs and your PSP has expired, and the lamp still hasn't popped.

I doubt that they'll replace the lamp in a DLP after 4yrs if it hasn't completely popped. If it's only faded slightly (ie. less bright than new, which is likely going to be the case) then that's not really a warranty item.

Or, does the warranty say that they'll give you a new lamp whenever you want, no questions asked? I doubt it, because otherwise you could just get a 2nd one soon after purchasing and have it ready to go.

I inquired about this, and yes, if the lamp dims, and the tv is not performing to new standards, they will replace the bulb. My father has a samsung that has now had 2 bulbs replaced in less than 3 years for dimming, and for $250, is a little bit of money, so like I said, how can I go wrong?? Even if I dont use it, so what, it was peace of mind, and its only $250.00. Thats 62.50 per year, 5.21 per month, or .17 cents per day, its not a big deal.
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post #658 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 05:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf1410 View Post

I've never heard of a TV with a native resolution of 720p. Its the incoming signal that has a native resolution. This TV will display a signal in 480i (Standard Def), 480p (DVD), 720P (HDTV) or 1080i (HDTV), depending on the source. SD at 480i on this TV looks considerabley worse than a HDTV signal, becuase you are actually viewing 480i, not an upscaled image. I have an upconverting DVD player, and I would say the signal is very marginally better when upscaled to 720P or 1080i from the native DVD resolution of 480P signal that has not been upscaled. The difference is not huge.

LCDs may have a native resolution of X x Y pixels, but there is no "P" or "i" involved

What you see displayed by the monitor is its native resolution. CRTs, by their design, can display multiple resolutions. Digital displays (LCD, DLP, LCoS...) can only display one resolution, the resolution of their display device*. This resolution is the native resolution. All input signals are either native resolution or converted by the TV to the native resolution.

DLP dmm are built in 720x1280 sizes. Many HD LCD (direct view) are 768 lines.
They are all progressive by nature. The p has just been dropped from the notation.

*1080x1920 DLP displays actually use a smaller dmm and 'wobulation' to achieve true 1080x1920.
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post #659 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arf1410 View Post

I've never heard of a TV with a native resolution of 720p.

Just thought I'd point out that the topic of this thread, the Toshiba 5xHM66 is a 720p DLP display.
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post #660 of 1295 Old 01-10-2007, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim6627 View Post

I inquired about this, and yes, if the lamp dims, and the tv is not performing to new standards, they will replace the bulb.

Wow, then that's quite a deal if they'll replace the lamp if it has only just "dimmed" and isn't completely out. I guess alot of that would depend on the tech that comes to your home, and if you grease him with a case of Bud.
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