Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 270 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
 6Likes
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #8071 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 07:14 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 15,400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 298 Post(s)
Liked: 161
No. Both of those use the HDMI input?
Ok, still loose the satellite box, connect your OTA cable direct to the tuner (at least see if it works) and report back.

.
.
Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
videobruce is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #8072 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 07:25 AM
AVS Special Member
 
curlyjive's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Abington, PA
Posts: 1,346
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 114 Post(s)
Liked: 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

No. Both of those use the HDMI input?
Ok, still loose the satellite box, connect your OTA cable direct to the tuner (at least see if it works) and report back.


DVD over HDMI, STB over componant. I won't be able to check OTA directly until tonight. THe thing is, I don't remember seeing this with the 87 I had before. Yet I am really not sure what could be wrong that would cause the problem. I would rather not have to swap out another set, even though this one does have a scratch between the two screens...you can't see it from seating distance so I can deal with that, but the lines are distracting. They might be something that I am overly looking for or it might be a problem. So that's why I am looking for other people's observations. Lines might not be the best way to desribe it. It almost looks like banding or motion distortion, but it seems to take the form or horizontal lines.
curlyjive is offline  
post #8073 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 08:00 AM
Member
 
Jond0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 119
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by collinp View Post

Maybe. It depends on how serious the issue is. Outsourced techs coming to your house to disassemble your set for a minor issue are likely to cause a major issue.

- Collin

Yes, I've finally had experience with an outside tech coming over to "fix" my old sony crt hdtv. It's definitely worse than when he started, a new blue crt appears to overpower the other older ones...

I digress, aside from the screen smudges, this set has been trouble free and I'm pretty happy with the color so I hesitate to get it 'fixed'. I may just bite the bullet and have Eliab come over and do his thing. I wonder if he's hit Seattle yet?
--Jonathan
Jond0 is offline  
post #8074 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 08:00 AM
Senior Member
 
profjoe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 277
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

I had a similar issue with my HL-R5078. It was aperture related. A service call is in order. More likely than not, your light engine will be replaced.

Eliab

Eliab: You said this in response to a "flashlight spot" on someone's set. Would this apeture problem look a bit like an internal reflection? For me, I have seen something like this when there is a relatively dark scene with a bit of light near the middle of the screen. (Obviously this doesn't happen very often. It is worse when I am slightly off-axis vertically.)

Should I call for service?
profjoe is offline  
post #8075 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 08:06 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
videobruce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 15,400
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 298 Post(s)
Liked: 161
Quote:
It's definitely worse than when he started, a new blue crt appears to overpower the other older ones...

Not unusual.
When you replace springs or shocks on a car, they are almost always replaced in pairs. In this case, all three tubes especially if it is a older set.

.
.
Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way. If you like Wi-Fi so much, OTA fits right in. After all, it is wireless.
videobruce is offline  
post #8076 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 09:17 AM
Member
 
Rodn'Reel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeynavy1 View Post

Just curious...I just glanced at Lumagen's web site, where I saw the prices I was referring to earlier. What inputs does it have in the back. The picture I saw on there had S-Video but what appeared to be the Component Inputs didn't look like typical female RCA jacks. I also didn't see any HDMI on them. I assume you set up with Component going into the box and then another set coming out and into your TV?


From the Lumgen website on the HDQ model:

Input configurability:
- Inputs 1-4 can be DVI, HDMI 444 or 422 component, RGBHV
- Input 5 can be Component (HD/SD), Scart (uses in7 for CVS) RGBS, RGsB
- Input 6 can be Component (HD/SD), Scart, RGBS, RGsB
Rodn'Reel is offline  
post #8077 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 12:14 PM
Newbie
 
wmstewart66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by profjoe View Post

Eliab: You said this in response to a "flashlight spot" on someone's set. Would this apeture problem look a bit like an internal reflection? For me, I have seen something like this when there is a relatively dark scene with a bit of light near the middle of the screen. (Obviously this doesn't happen very often. It is worse when I am slightly off-axis vertically.)

Should I call for service?

I'm the one that posted this problem originally. What you are describing is exactly what I had. I called Samsung support and they replaced the entire set. I just got the new one last week and there are no light engine leaks on the new one.
wmstewart66 is offline  
post #8078 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 12:16 PM
Newbie
 
wmstewart66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
With all these sets going back for replacements does anyone know if you can buy refurnished sets from Samsung? If not, what are they doing with all of them?
wmstewart66 is offline  
post #8079 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 12:16 PM
Member
 
tjarrett999's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 69
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am hoping that you all can help me. I think I cursed myself yesterday by filling out the survey that was in this thread about wether or not I had any problems with my set so far. Up until yesterday I hadn't had any, but that changed last night.

While I was watching TV last night the picture was fine, and I left the room and came back to what I would describe as a shadow on the right hand edge of the screen. It is triangular in shape and is probably 1 1/2 - 2 inches thick at the top and narrows gradually to about 1/2 inch at the bottom. It isn't solid black, but a very dark shadow. You can still kind of see what is supposed to be behind it, but it is very distracting. Is it possible there is something that has covered a part of the bulb or something that is causing it that would be an easy fix, or is it something more severe.

I thought I remembered something similar at the beginning of the thread, but the search hasn't worked the 3 or 4 times that I have tried it today and I am at work so I don't have time to go back through 50 pages to try to find it.

Thank you all in advance for your help.
tjarrett999 is offline  
post #8080 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 12:44 PM
AVS Special Member
 
slogun's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Long Island, New York
Posts: 1,335
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjarrett999 View Post

I thought I remembered something similar at the beginning of the thread, but the search hasn't worked the 3 or 4 times that I have tried it today and I am at work so I don't have time to go back through 50 pages to try to find it.

Thank you all in advance for your help.

Yes, there was something of this nature discussed earlier in the thread. One thing you can do is to remove one or both round 5 inch access panels on either side of the screen and look inside to see if something is hanging down behind the screen or see if a small piece of debris has landed on the lens of the bulb. If you decide you want to try to clean the lens, you must do so very gently/cautiously.

to each his own...
slogun is offline  
post #8081 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 12:59 PM
Senior Member
 
RealAudiophobe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 366
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Has anyone had "rainbow" problems on the 6187's. (I can't read the whole thread!).
RealAudiophobe is offline  
post #8082 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:14 PM
AVS Special Member
 
subwoofer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: DC
Posts: 1,122
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

Has anyone had "rainbow" problems on the 6187's. (I can't read the whole thread!).

no
subwoofer is offline  
post #8083 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:17 PM
AVS Special Member
 
scsiraid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Vero Beach, FL
Posts: 1,887
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

Has anyone had "rainbow" problems on the 6187's. (I can't read the whole thread!).

All DLP's generate rainbows under the right circumstances (high contrast material, dark room, rapid eye movement, etc).... The real question is whether you can see them or not (many people cannot see them at all) and whether you care. None of us can answer that... only you can.

I can see them but dont care. They dont appear when you are intently watching the show. They usually only appear when you are glancing around.
scsiraid is offline  
post #8084 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
mikeynavy1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,072
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I posted this yesterday but not sure if anyone saw it. Can some of the people here post what their horizontal and vertical position settings are for their TVs (in the SM). Also indicate overscan on or off. I'm just looking to compare, as well as see why overscan off make so much of a difference. I know many of the TVs will be different, but I just want to get a ballpark figure on how mine compares. My values are:

H Position = 55 (out of 100+ limit)
V Position = 40 (out of 60 limit)
Overscan On on 5688
mikeynavy1 is offline  
post #8085 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:23 PM
AVS Special Member
 
FreeBaGeL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Titletown, FL
Posts: 1,879
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmstewart66 View Post


Quote:
Originally Posted by profjoe View Post

Eliab: You said this in response to a "flashlight spot" on someone's set. Would this apeture problem look a bit like an internal reflection? For me, I have seen something like this when there is a relatively dark scene with a bit of light near the middle of the screen. (Obviously this doesn't happen very often. It is worse when I am slightly off-axis vertically.)

Should I call for service?

I'm the one that posted this problem originally. What you are describing is exactly what I had. I called Samsung support and they replaced the entire set. I just got the new one last week and there are no light engine leaks on the new one.

I'm assuming by "flashlight spot" you guys are talking about leaked light in a circular area right in the middle of the screen when the TV is off or dark? If so that's what I have as well, though I would describe mine as more than a "bit" of it and it can be distracting at times.

wmstewart66, how did the service call go down? Did they just let you know they were going to be replacing the set over the phone and have a new one shipped over and pick up the old one? I wouldn't mind replacing the set for this but I dunno how willing I'd be to have the LE replaced on my 2-month old TV.

Can there be any ill effect from a LE replacement?

XBL & PSN: Vcize

Hit me up on XBL if you're going to be playing CoD Ghosts or the PS Vita

FreeBaGeL is offline  
post #8086 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:29 PM
Senior Member
 
tg2k's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 217
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by subwoofer View Post

no

Heh. Someone please repost that "how to use the forum search button for dummies" pic...that one was great, and yet I haven't managed to find it with a search of my own.
(And apologies to those who would be offended by my comment, because I know that the forum search feature is sub-par anyway, and it is a very long thread.)
tg2k is offline  
post #8087 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:33 PM
Member
 
kidkoala's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 40
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I'd like to throw in my 2cents for calibration.

Eliab came by last week to calibrate my 5088. As a background, I'm coming from a Loewe Aconda {which I absolutely adored}.

I will agree with the previous posters who have said calibration turns this set into a reference system. Although it's not the type of picture you would be wow'ed with initially. You have to spend time with it. And then it sneaks up on you . .

The picture is stunning: Luscious, creamy, and rich. At the same time, HD broadcast is crisp and clean. You don't realize how much noise was there until it's gone. Viewer fatigue is almost non-existent compared to before, and I no longer feel like I'm watching a DLP {I used to feel the OTB picture was too sparkly and bright and would give me minor headaches}.

I now understand why these sets are calibrated the way they are OTB. Definitely could sell more TVs with all of that detail and brightness jumping out at you. After calibration, the detail is all there - only now it's an integral part of the picture. All in all, you get a beautiful, balanced picture with nuance and detail after calibration.

On HD-DVD, it's incredibly film-like with rich, creamy colors. On HD broadcast, when watching a football game, you can see the detail and patterns on the grass and pick up the weather cues of the game environment {this is quite amazing}. When watching Leno's stand up last night, I could finally see that the lighting behind him near his desk is dimmed. I'd never noticed that before.

Do I think calibration is for everyone? I'm sure there are people who like the OTB amped up picture. I will say that I feel completely spoiled with this set and I look forward to watching broadcast TV {which is something I can't recall doing before}. And I no longer reminisce about my Loewe.
kidkoala is offline  
post #8088 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:39 PM
Senior Member
 
dsl_steve's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 274
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeBaGeL View Post

I'm assuming by "flashlight spot" you guys are talking about leaked light in a circular area right in the middle of the screen when the TV is off or dark? If so that's what I have as well, though I would describe mine as more than a "bit" of it and it can be distracting at times.

I've seen this on my HL-S4266 when there is a certain kind of dark image that has a bright area on it somewhere---and it doesn't happen all the time. And the weird part is, it moves, which leads me to believe its from the DLP chip. Never saw it when the set is off though.

I've read about others seeing it as well. Some call it a cloud, some call it a halo. I'd be willing to bet you risk getting this on your exchange set as well.
dsl_steve is offline  
post #8089 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:46 PM
KRB
Member
 
KRB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 107
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I just sold my HLN-4365W to a friend who would come over about once a week to watch movies (I host a movie party every week at my home). When he found out I had ordered a HLS-5087 he immediately expressed interest in buying my old set. When I reminded him that he could purchase a new current model for not much more than what I would sell my old set, he still went ahead and bought my old 43" set. Why? Because it was calibrated and had a very nice picture. I wound up bundling my Momitsu DVD player and DVI cables as part of the sale also. I get to dump my old set and offset the cost of the new one. He got a great looking pre-calibrated set. Bottom line: Not only did I get to enjoy the calibrated picure for the time I owned the old set but it helped sell it also when I eventually upgraded.

I have a calibration scheduled for next week for the 5087 - I budgeted for it as part of the entire purchase. IMO, if you don't calibrate, you're not getting the most out of these sets and wasting your money.
KRB is offline  
post #8090 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:48 PM
Advanced Member
 
jhferry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 842
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Has anyone got an Xbox 360 hooked up to these?

Im interested in VGA vs Component due to the MS announcment of 1080p support over VGA for upconverting dvds
jhferry is offline  
post #8091 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 01:55 PM
Member
 
Rodn'Reel's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 35
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

Has anyone had "rainbow" problems on the 6187's. (I can't read the whole thread!).


No and I have tried.
Rodn'Reel is offline  
post #8092 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 02:07 PM
Senior Member
 
RealAudiophobe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 366
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rodn'Reel View Post

No and I have tried.

Thanks!
I have been shopping and have been oscillating between the Sony 60" SRDX and the Samsung 6187. I like the Samsung better but was c/o the rainbow either for myself or others.
Other questions..... (Newbie!)

-What's involved with calibration? I assume this is a tech job and nothing I can do my self. Cost?
-The sales people push the surge protector/filter saying that it will improve the picture quality. True?
-As far as I can tell, the 6187 and 6188 are the same except for PIP and cable card slot for a few hundred bucks more. I have a cable DVR and don't need any of that. A guy at Tweeter, which doesn't sell the 6187, only the 6188, said that the video processer was better in the 88. The Samsung site does not substantiate that. What is the advantage for me in PQ, if any, in the 88?
-I find all the chains have the same price($2849). Any suggestions (in CT)?
Thanks
RealAudiophobe is offline  
post #8093 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 02:16 PM
tm3
Member
 
tm3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 72
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by KRB View Post

I just sold my HLN-4365W to a friend who would come over about once a week to watch movies (I host a movie party every week at my home). When he found out I had ordered a HLS-5087 he immediately expressed interest in buying my old set. When I reminded him that he could purchase a new current model for not much more than what I would sell my old set, he still went ahead and bought my old 43" set. Why? Because it was calibrated and had a very nice picture. I wound up bundling my Momitsu DVD player and DVI cables as part of the sale also. I get to dump my old set and offset the cost of the new one. He got a great looking pre-calibrated set. Bottom line: Not only did I get to enjoy the calibrated picure for the time I owned the old set but it helped sell it also when I eventually upgraded.

I have a calibration scheduled for next week for the 5087 - I budgeted for it as part of the entire purchase. IMO, if you don't calibrate, you're not getting the most out of these sets and wasting your money.

now come on, guys -- you are talking me into it!

i at least have to wait a while and see if the 6187 develops any "issues" that would warrant a return while i'm in the 30 day grace period.

>-I find all the chains have the same price($2849). Any suggestions (in CT)?<<br />
i'm barely beyond a newbie myself, but if i had it to do over again and when i buy my next RPTV i'm going to order it online from a reputable dealer. my experience with BB was very bad, and CC had problems also.

i think that costco has lower prices than the other chain stores, if that is an option for you.
tm3 is offline  
post #8094 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 02:36 PM
KRB
Member
 
KRB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: SoCal
Posts: 107
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

-The sales people push the surge protector/filter saying that it will improve the picture quality. True?

Well, it depends. When I lived in an apartment building where everyone had their noisy appliances on the same wiring - my Chang Lightspeed filter made a big difference in picture (on my Panasonic 56" 720p CRT RPTV) and sound on my hifi rig.

In the condo I'm living in now - there seems to be much less noise in the electrical system so the filtration isn't making that much of a perceptible difference for me. But since it is filtering out gunk, theoretically, everything connected to it should last that much longer.

I'd do a bit of research on brands and pricing before buying what the sales people are pushing - some devices don't do much more than a power strip.
KRB is offline  
post #8095 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 02:40 PM
Member
 
jwilson56's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 49
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by ScarletGrayFire View Post

Received my 5687 yesterday! I can confirm that the only cable provided is a power cord. But they do include a handy-dandy screen cleaning cloth!

On another note, I have my HTPC connected at 1080p via HDMI, and it's working great!

What video card are you using in your HTPC and what rez are you running your desktop?

Thanks

John
jwilson56 is offline  
post #8096 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 02:45 PM
Member
 
Natic's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 103
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwilson56 View Post

What video card are you using in your HTPC and what rez are you running your desktop?

Thanks

John


yeah please tell us. i m about to give up
Natic is offline  
post #8097 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 03:06 PM
Member
 
BuckFly's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 146
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by scsiraid View Post

All DLP's generate rainbows under the right circumstances (high contrast material, dark room, rapid eye movement, etc).... The real question is whether you can see them or not (many people cannot see them at all) and whether you care. None of us can answer that... only you can.

I can see them but dont care. They don't appear when you are intently watching the show. They usually only appear when you are glancing around.


- scsiraid above in response to RealAudiophobe, RBE - RealAP, I do see them. scsiraid sees them and UMR, one of the ISF Calibrators also sees them.

To speak for myself, right now, without settting it in stone, I'd say I am leaning towards keeping my 6187. Why? I'm trying to weigh any sort of tolerence I have for noticing RBE and the absolutely beautiful picture I get with it, and this is pre-calibration.

My situation is similar to scsiraid; if you're intently watching a show and keep your eyes on the screen, you don't notice them. I've seen them at various times, rewind what I'm watching, and don't see them again the second time around. weird.

Additionally, I would imagine people around this thread were bored with my posts concerning SD quality b/f I got this set -- when it arrived I was stunned at how good SD came in, even compared to other sets. I don't have to just watch HD with the 6187, b/c the SD is more than satisfactory to me.

I loved my Sony WEGA; if you want something comparable to the 87 series, while maintaining the quality of lets say, the vga's 1080p resolution, you won't be looking at the a2000, you'll have to go up to the XBR2 -- a four figure difference with current prices. That is hard not to notice, but to each his own.

I feel in love with this TV and I am reluctant to give it up. I'm still trying to put it through it's paces. I hope this helped you.

Good luck, RealAudiophobe and thank you scsiraid for your comments, it's helping me with my decision.
BuckFly is offline  
post #8098 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 03:19 PM
Advanced Member
 
collinp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 773
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

Thanks!
I have been shopping and have been oscillating between the Sony 60" SRDX and the Samsung 6187. I like the Samsung better but was c/o the rainbow either for myself or others.
Other questions..... (Newbie!)

-What's involved with calibration? I assume this is a tech job and nothing I can do my self. Cost?

Precise measurements of the grayscale & colorimetry of the set using a relatively expensive spectroradiometer and a relatively complex configuration of the set via the service menu. The major obstacle to doing it yourself is not having access to the equipment. There is also a large learning curve and a bit of trial and error to learn the idiosyncrasies of the set, but geeks like me call that fun. A calibration will run you $300-400. In my book calibration is a must for any quality TV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

-The sales people push the surge protector/filter saying that it will improve the picture quality. True?

A surge protector can help protected your equipment in case of a power line surge, but it is not going to improve PQ. A line filter really only makes a difference for analog connections. If you were running component video to a CRT, I'd recommend a filter. You might even want a filter for your receiver, though there can be current limiting issues there, but for a DLP your goal should be to achieve an all digital signal path and a filter isn't going to help you there unless you've got amazingly dirty power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by RealAudiophobe View Post

-As far as I can tell, the 6187 and 6188 are the same except for PIP and cable card slot for a few hundred bucks more. I have a cable DVR and don't need any of that. A guy at Tweeter, which doesn't sell the 6187, only the 6188, said that the video processer was better in the 88. The Samsung site does not substantiate that. What is the advantage for me in PQ, if any, in the 88?

The 6188 can do 1:1 pixel mapping once overscan is disabled in the service menu. For me this would be worth the cost of the 88. Essentially this means a sharper picture for 1080p sources.

- Collin
collinp is offline  
post #8099 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 03:35 PM
Advanced Member
 
collinp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: San Francisco, CA
Posts: 773
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by kidkoala View Post

Do I think calibration is for everyone? I'm sure there are people who like the OTB amped up picture. I will say that I feel completely spoiled with this set and I look forward to watching broadcast TV {which is something I can't recall doing before}. And I no longer reminisce about my Loewe.

Once you get used to what the picture is really supposed to look like you're going to find yourself walking into big box stores aghast at how the sets are configured. Neon green football fields, blinding white levels, and colors so saturated they obscure any detail.

Admittedly if you've gotten used to your set's punchiness proper reproduction might take some getting used to, but you'll soon realize that everything looks more accurate and consistently good. Showroom modes tend to look great on certain shots, but really destroy others. For instance, oversaturated green makes grass look cool, but then you watch a film like the Matrix which is supposed to have a slight green cast to it and suddenly the green is so overwhelming its almost unwatchable.

A test you can try once you get your set calibrated is to pay attention to the PQ and color fidelity next time you see a film in the theater and try to see how close it matches your memory when it comes out on DVD. There are going to be some differences due to the mastering process and constricted color gamut of NTSC, but it should be relatively close. I saw the LOTR films a few times in the theater so I had a good recollection of the PQ. Once I got them on DVD they were pretty close to how I remember. I see them running in the stores (well not so much anymore) and they look terrible to me now on an uncalibrated set.

- Collin
collinp is offline  
post #8100 of 21419 Old 10-03-2006, 04:35 PM
Member
 
bl7385's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Wildwood, MO
Posts: 26
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jhferry View Post

Has anyone got an Xbox 360 hooked up to these?

Im interested in VGA vs Component due to the MS announcment of 1080p support over VGA for upconverting dvds

I'm also interested in this. This is the one reason that I'm even thinking about the 6188 vs the 6187. Does everyone think the 1:1 pixel mapping will make that much difference? I'm also a little leary since it is in the service menu.
bl7385 is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

Tags
Samsung , Displays

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off