Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 437 - AVS Forum
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post #13081 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackHitachi View Post

Yes it is! i believe its on page 407 or 408 on this very post. I did this on my 659 works GREAT!

Yes here it is

Ok, I'll add this one more time.

Anyone successfully find a "Game Mode Toggle" code? =)
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post #13082 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by jpshook View Post

I have read just about every page of this 400+ page thread trying to decide between the 87 and 88. I have called Samsung and read through every PDF to figure out which one is best for my needs. Now I am just about ready to buy but want to clarify a few details. If possible, I would like to save the $300 difference and go with the 87, but want to be sure! I was really unsure at first if the 87 had 10-bit color, but after reading all the threads, calling TVA, and calling Tier 2 Samsung, I am convinced that the 87 series DOES have 10-bit.

1. Are there any features of the 88 that are different besides the following:

PIP - no need for this
Cable Card - our cable company doesn't offer
Firewire - are there any devices that actually use DNET?
Black bottom bezel - Better than the silver, but not for $300

2. Does the 87 support 1:1 Pixel mapping? Does anyone use this? I am going to setup my HTPC with this and want best possible quality.

3. Planning to order the Onkyo s790 HTIB as a starting system. Anyone having any problems running HDMI to the Sammy, optical directly to the receiver? Sync issues?

4. Amazon offering the 87 for good price, has anyone bought anything like this from them? Is there extended warranty any good? Or should I order from TVA?

Anything else I am missing here? Thanks for your comments!

Just my 2 cents. I had the HLS5687 for 3 months. Nice picture and no issues, it really is indivdiual preference I don't see a huge difference but do notice SD channels do look better on the 88 with overscan turned off. Virtually everything else is identical and I barely use the PIP feature anyways. I have Verizon FIOS and am debating getting a cable card to use along with the motorola set top box I currently have. Right now I get their analog channcels plus the local HD channels without the cable card.

HDMI worked great on both the 87 i had and the 88 I have now. I do notice my 88 has a "cleaner" screen. I went through three 87s and finally just had my money refunded. Believe the screen issue has nothing to do with model but manufacter date. If you can get the 88 for minimal money I think I got it for like $200 more then the 87 and I would probably do it again.
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post #13083 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 12:01 PM
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Does the overscan on/off service menu option only effect 1080p signals? I was playing with it the other night and it didn't affect anything at 720p.
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post #13084 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Pinecrest View Post

It's my understanding that this can be overcome by using a Harmony Remote, which can enter and exit the SM without powering off. Isn't that correct?

Partly. There are service tech remotes with codes that let you exit the SM without using the power button. To get those codes to a Harmony type remote, you need a learning remote (as a transfer agent) and someone with a "service" remote who will let you copy the commands.

That's what I've understood from reading posts about professional calibrations done on "87"/"67" Samsung models by Eliab and David Abrams. You would need to contact them for exact details. The reports indicate that they only do it as a service for their customers.

You can check the calibration reports that are linked at the bottom of my post for more details or contact information.

Cjlawson's fix may do the same thing, but I don't have any direct why of knowing. It's my understanding that exiting the SM is where the gotcha is located.
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post #13085 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angle_slam View Post

There's a big debate over on dbstalk.com about this very subject. Each person has a different view.

Native would probably be best if it weren't for one problem (that not everyone experiences): channels change slower with native on than with with it off.

I notice the slowdown, so I leave native off.

In general, you want to view shows in whatever format it is broadcast in. Fox, ABC, ESPN, and ESPN2 are 720p. All other HD channels are 1080i.

Use the format button to change from 720p to 1080i, depending on what show you're watching. So this Saturday, I'll be watching the CBS NFL games in 1080i and the Fox NFL games in 720p.


Thanks, so, if I follow this format, the TV will convert the 720p or 1080i signal to 1080p.
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post #13086 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 12:20 PM
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Guys, I'm sorry to ask such an open ended question but is the Harmony 880 the way to go as far as remotes?



It seems to be the popular choice here, or at least it has come up more times on this thread than any of the other remotes.

I was hoping that using the 880 with my sammy 6187, as well as in combination with all the other devices I have connected to my entertainment center, would reduce my number of remotes laying around (about 8 of them, don't ask). Mind you I am pretty used to going 2 fisted but now I find myself fluttering at times with three remotes and I think I have about had it.

If I could program macros for some of the things I want to do I'd be in heaven. For example, if I get the new pelican system selector II, and I want to hop on the 360, these are the steps that I have to go through in no particular order:

Turn on the 360 -
have the system selector switch to the 360 -
have the sammy switch from hdmi (probably watching tv) to the PC input -
have the old sony receiver switch from dvd (optical used for tv) to CD (optical used for 360, yeah, it's a '99 Sony Receiver)

As far as the Sammy goes, depending upon what input I'm using at the time I either have to flip through all the inputs or call up the menu-inputs-select before I've done anything else...I'M WASTING MY LIFE AWAY!!!

If any of you could spare a brief opinion I would greatly appreciate it. Especially how the 880 works with the Sammy. Any other recommendations would also be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your responses.
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post #13087 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Cjlawson's fix may do the same thing, but I don't have any direct why of knowing. It's my understanding that exiting the SM is where the gotcha is located.

There are two gotchas.

Exiting is definitely the big one. If you don't have a remote configured to let you in and out of the SM without powering down and back up then you're pretty much stuck.

But even if you get past that you've got to contend with the fact that entering the SM resets all your user settings. It's possible to tweak various SM settings so that those user defaults are where you'd want to be anyway but that's not somewhere I want to go too casually.

Personally I wish Samsung would abandon their silly 'well, you guys aren't supposed to know about that anyway' position and just admit that part of the firmware is broken.
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post #13088 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckFly View Post

Guys, I'm sorry to ask such an open ended question but is the Harmony 880 the way to go as far as remotes?



It seems to be the popular choice here, or at least it has come up more times on this thread than any of the other remotes.

I was hoping that using the 880 with my sammy 6187, as well as in combination with all the other devices I have connected to my entertainment center, would reduce my number of remotes laying around (about 8 of them, don't ask). Mind you I am pretty used to going 2 fisted but now I find myself fluttering at times with three remotes and I think I have about had it.

If I could program macros for some of the things I want to do I'd be in heaven. For example, if I get the new pelican system selector II, and I want to hop on the 360, these are the steps that I have to go through in no particular order:

Turn on the 360 -
have the system selector switch to the 360 -
have the sammy switch from hdmi (probably watching tv) to the PC input -
have the old sony receiver switch from dvd (optical used for tv) to CD (optical used for 360, yeah, it's a '99 Sony Receiver)

As far as the Sammy goes, depending upon what input I'm using at the time I either have to flip through all the inputs or call up the menu-inputs-select before I've done anything else...I'M WASTING MY LIFE AWAY!!!

If any of you could spare a brief opinion I would greatly appreciate it. Especially how the 880 works with the Sammy. Any other recommendations would also be greatly appreciated.

Thank you in advance for your responses.


Here is my take on the Harmony 880 which I purchased about three weeks ago.

I have been able to replace all of the other remotes with just the single 880, with the exception of the VRC remote which is needed only for setting up VCR recordings. I should be able to create a "RECORD VCR" activity at some point, but have not gotten around to it.

The 880 is a pain in the butt to setup. I have four devices I am controlling, A Samsung 6187W, a Scientific Atlantic cable box, a JVC DVD player and a Panasonic VCR. Should be simple.. right? Well the remote codes that Logitech supplies for those four devices were wrong, problems ranged from simple mislabeling (on the TV Input Component 2 actually selects Component 1), to almost catastrophic (the VCR commands for turning it on causes the Samsung TV to go into a "Diagnostic 2" menu that is not documented by Samsung either in the manual, in the service manual or from their tech support, and there is no way to get out of it except to manually walk over to the TV and power it off).

These problem caused me to force the 880 to relearn many of the needed codes and abandoned most of the codes from the Logitech database. In essence the Logitech database of device codes is corrupt. This was confirmed by statements from Logitech that said that no manufacturer has ever supplied them with original device codes. Instead Logitech gets the codes from end users when the "teach" there Harmony remotes with the original device remotes. This explains why there are some many mislabeled codes, codes that do nothing, and other junk intermixed with good commands in the Logitech database of device codes.

After having said all that, if you are persistent and don't mind playing with programing the Harmony remotes, they do in the end work well once correctly configured.

Tom N.
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post #13089 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OctavianMagnus View Post

But even if you get past that you've got to contend with the fact that entering the SM resets all your user settings. It's possible to tweak various SM settings so that those user defaults are where you'd want to be anyway but that's not somewhere I want to go too casually.

True. I forgot that one. It also points out that a professional calibration is needed to make this work around be convenient. Most good calibrators like Eliab and David Abrams will set up the User Menu controls so that the calibrated values become the default values as far as the TV is concerned.

Quote:


Personally I wish Samsung would abandon their silly 'well, you guys aren't supposed to know about that anyway' position and just admit that part of the firmware is broken.

My theory is that it was done intentionally in the HLR models because of the impact on their customer support operation during the HLP, HLN, HLM days.

We watch our HLP in "Expand" mode which turns off the extra overscan that comes with Wide(TV) mode. When I'm forced to watch ABC's analog SD signal through Comcast, I sometimes see a narrow band of light along the top edge of the image. Many people probably concluded that such stuff was a TV "problem" and called to get it "fixed". Samsung solution -- more overscan for all models in 2005, and more overscan for the mass distributed models in 2006. The only out was for the AVS type buyers who paid extra for the "88", "78" and "79" models. Or maybe that's where the firm ware bug is.

All this is total speculation on my part.
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post #13090 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coyotemoon View Post

Here is my take on the Harmony 880 which I purchased about three weeks ago.

I have been able to replace all of the other remotes with just the single 880, with the exception of the VRC remote which is needed only for setting up VCR recordings. I should be able to create a "RECORD VCR" activity at some point, but have not gotten around to it.

The 880 is a pain in the butt to setup. I have four devices I am controlling, A Samsung 6187W, a Scientific Atlantic cable box, a JVC DVD player and a Panasonic VCR. Should be simple.. right? Well the remote codes that Logitech supplies for those four devices were wrong, problems ranged from simple mislabeling (on the TV Input Component 2 actually selects Component 1), to almost catastrophic (the VCR commands for turning it on causes the Samsung TV to go into a "Diagnostic 2" menu that is not documented by Samsung either in the manual, in the service manual or from their tech support, and there is no way to get out of it except to manually walk over to the TV and power it off).

These problem caused me to force the 880 to relearn many of the needed codes and abandoned most of the codes from the Logitech database. In essence the Logitech database of device codes is corrupt. This was confirmed by statements from Logitech that said that no manufacturer has ever supplied them with original device codes. Instead Logitech gets the codes from end users when the "teach" there Harmony remotes with the original device remotes. This explains why there are some many mislabeled codes, codes that do nothing, and other junk intermixed with good commands in the Logitech database of device codes.

After having said all that, if you are persistent and don't mind playing with programing the Harmony remotes, they do in the end work well once correctly configured.

Tom N.



Tom, thank you very much for your response.

Additionally, if I have to teach the 880 using my current remotes then I'll have no problems with it if it avoids some of the headaches you went through.

My entertainment center is (or will shortly be) as follows:

Sammy 6187
Hughes HR20 HD-DVR Receiver
Sony SAT T-60 Receiver
Sony 5 CD changer ('99)
Pelican System Selector Pro II (in the next month)
Pioneer 640H DVD-DVR Recorder (in the next month)

Off of the system selector Pro will be 2 current remote compatible gaming consoles.

Considering the functionality of my set-up and the complexity of my wiring it is going to be worth it for me to set-up the 880.

Thank you again.
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post #13091 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

True. I forgot that one. It also points out that a professional calibration is needed to make this work around be convenient. Most good calibrators like Eliab and David Abrams will set up the User Menu controls so that the calibrated values become the default values as far as the TV is concerned.

htwaits,

You are correct! When jumping in and out of the service menu, the user menu resets, forcing the user to re-enter their settings each time. During our calibration process we make the user menu settings as close to calibrated so that this is a minimal issue. For our clients, we offer the option to learn the factory IR code into their learning remote so they may easily turn off the 'overscan' parameter.

There are codes available for the Harmony remotes that we are happy to provide if people would like to fill out our contact form located here!

Keep in mind that this will still require the user menu settings to be reset.

Regards,

Dave
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post #13092 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckFly View Post

Tom, thank you very much for your response.

Additionally, if I have to teach the 880 using my current remotes then I'll have no problems with it if it avoids some of the headaches you went through.

My entertainment center is (or will shortly be) as follows:

Sammy 6187
Hughes HR20 HD-DVR Receiver
Sony SAT T-60 Receiver
Sony 5 CD changer ('99)
Pelican System Selector Pro II (in the next month)
Pioneer 640H DVD-DVR Recorder (in the next month)

Off of the system selector Pro will be 2 current remote compatible gaming consoles.

Considering the functionality of my set-up and the complexity of my wiring it is going to be worth it for me to set-up the 880.

Thank you again.

I'll second the recommendation. It can be kind of a PIA to set up, and the codes that it downloads are NOT always correct (like he mentioned, it mislabels Component 1 and 2... strangely enough, part of the setup takes that into account), has several non-functional input codes (that it defaults to) alongside functional input codes, and actually has some things that are completely different than what they say they're supposed to do (one of my inputs I think actually displayed some kind of debug info/mode or something.. it was NOT the service menu).

However, once you get it setup, it is a joy to use. I am controlling a TV, Receiver, Cable Box, Xbox 360, DVD Player, Wii (audio and input setup), and PS2 (audio and input setup)... just press the activity you want to use and it sets everything up for you.

A few things still bug me about it, like the lack of more options for the "Help" button (which tries to fix your problem before asking you what the problem is, which often just means it tries to turn on/off your TV again, which for a DLP is really annoying), but overall, I'm very happy with it.
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post #13093 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 02:42 PM
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YEEEEAAAAHHHHH!!!!!!

Finally pulled the trigger this afternoon!!! I was feeling spontanious and while spending almost every waking moment in this forum the last two weeks I made a random trip over to the CC to purchase my 5687........I should be delivered tonight. Amazing service and a great price. If anyone is interested in this set pick one up before they start selling through them - I quoted a fictional price a tad bit below what Amazon.com offers the set at and they accepted it without a second thought. I couldn't be happier, just in time for the games this weekend.

So, with it being delivered tonight - what all should I do to properly prepare my set so that it's looking it's best on Sat./Sun.??

Oh, and thank you all!!!!!!!!

So, a of now here's my setup

Samsung HL-S5678
Yamaha - RX-V1000 - receiver
Sony DVP-NS700P - dvd player
XBox 360
Comcast DVR Box - can't do anything bout that!
Klipsch Reference surround system

I'll be looking into upgrading my DVD player to an upconverting player soon, hopefully next week......We'll see if this progressive scan guy plays OK through the weekend.
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post #13094 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 03:10 PM
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TV Guide On Screen is another difference. It is only on the 88 series.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jpshook View Post

I have read just about every page of this 400+ page thread trying to decide between the 87 and 88. I have called Samsung and read through every PDF to figure out which one is best for my needs. Now I am just about ready to buy but want to clarify a few details. If possible, I would like to save the $300 difference and go with the 87, but want to be sure! I was really unsure at first if the 87 had 10-bit color, but after reading all the threads, calling TVA, and calling Tier 2 Samsung, I am convinced that the 87 series DOES have 10-bit.

1. Are there any features of the 88 that are different besides the following:

PIP - no need for this
Cable Card - our cable company doesn't offer
Firewire - are there any devices that actually use DNET?
Black bottom bezel - Better than the silver, but not for $300

2. Does the 87 support 1:1 Pixel mapping? Does anyone use this? I am going to setup my HTPC with this and want best possible quality.

3. Planning to order the Onkyo s790 HTIB as a starting system. Anyone having any problems running HDMI to the Sammy, optical directly to the receiver? Sync issues?

4. Amazon offering the 87 for good price, has anyone bought anything like this from them? Is there extended warranty any good? Or should I order from TVA?

Anything else I am missing here? Thanks for your comments!

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post #13095 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BuckFly View Post

Guys, I'm sorry to ask such an open ended question but is the Harmony 880 the way to go as far as remotes?



It seems to be the popular choice here, or at least it has come up more times on this thread than any of the other remotes.

I was hoping that using the 880 with my sammy 6187, as well as in combination with all the other devices I have connected to my entertainment center, would reduce my number of remotes laying around (about 8 of them, don't ask). Mind you I am pretty used to going 2 fisted but now I find myself fluttering at times with three remotes and I think I have about had it.

If I could program macros for some of the things I want to do I'd be in heaven. For example, if I get the new pelican system selector II, and I want to hop on the 360, these are the steps that I have to go through in no particular order:

Turn on the 360 -
have the system selector switch to the 360 -
have the sammy switch from hdmi (probably watching tv) to the PC input -
have the old sony receiver switch from dvd (optical used for tv) to CD (optical used for 360, yeah, it's a '99 Sony Receiver)

I can't vouch for the Harmony, but I will say that getting a programmable universal remote is the way to go. I have the MX 700, http://www.remotecentral.com/mx700/index.html, and it works great for me. Someone posted discrete codes (direct inputs for Component 1, Component 2 instead of hitting the Source button and separate controls for On and Off) for the HLS in this thread and it makes life a lot easier.

When I press the Xbox button on my remote, it engages a macro that changes the input on the receiver and changes to the appropriate component input. Same with all the other buttons on the remote. I've also created simple macros for turn on (will turn on the receiver, turn on the D* box, switch the receiver to the correct input, and switch the TV to the correct input) and off. My mother came to visit last year and when she asked how to use the TV, it was nice to just say, "push the ON button."

Considering I have a DVD player, a DVD recorder, a VCR, an XBox 360, a receiver, and a DirecTV box in addition to the HLS, having the one remote replace 7 remotes makes life a lot easier.
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post #13096 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 04:55 PM
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I'm so wanting to buy the HL-S6187 after having researching various tvs for a while now. I was 99% sure I was going to go for it until I saw the thread about light engines always faiing. It seems that they all fail eventually no matter what after around 6 months to a year, or maybe it's because only the people with problems are posting about it? Any chances that the units being shipped out now have this fixed? But I don't know, it seems like no matter what brand you go for, they all have their problems. Just seems like with this one, at least replacing the light engine doesn't seem too bad.
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post #13097 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 05:30 PM
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yea its kinda scary that when i was looking at one at BB and CC, the TV has its own lamp LED...didnt you guys say its 5000 hrs?? arent flat panel LCDs good up to 20,000+ hrs? correct me if im wrong
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post #13098 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 05:34 PM
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so does this model samsung experience the "3 blinking lights" problem?
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post #13099 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaqen View Post

I'm so wanting to buy the HL-S6187 after having researching various tvs for a while now. I was 99% sure I was going to go for it until I saw the thread about light engines always faiing. It seems that they all fail eventually no matter what after around 6 months to a year, or maybe it's because only the people with problems are posting about it? Any chances that the units being shipped out now have this fixed? But I don't know, it seems like no matter what brand you go for, they all have their problems. Just seems like with this one, at least replacing the light engine doesn't seem too bad.


do you honestly think that samsung would still be in the TV game if all their light engines failed after 6 months"

Tim
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post #13100 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaqen View Post

I'm so wanting to buy the HL-S6187 after having researching various tvs for a while now. I was 99% sure I was going to go for it until I saw the thread about light engines always faiing. It seems that they all fail eventually no matter what after around 6 months to a year, or maybe it's because only the people with problems are posting about it? Any chances that the units being shipped out now have this fixed? But I don't know, it seems like no matter what brand you go for, they all have their problems. Just seems like with this one, at least replacing the light engine doesn't seem too bad.


They sell literally millions of these sets every year. If there were millions of problem posts, we would have lots of reading to do.

Buy it, enjoy it, spend a couple hundred (not more!) on a warranty if that gives better peace of mind.

Think about it - a 5yr warranty can sell for $200 RETAIL, so perhaps $100 wholesale. That is just a fraction of the cost of one service call. Over 4-5 years. The warranty companies are making money. So the failure rate is certainly less than 100%!!!!!!!!
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post #13101 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 08:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Jaqen View Post

I'm so wanting to buy the HL-S6187 after having researching various tvs for a while now. I was 99% sure I was going to go for it until I saw the thread about light engines always faiing. It seems that they all fail eventually no matter what after around 6 months to a year, or maybe it's because only the people with problems are posting about it? Any chances that the units being shipped out now have this fixed? But I don't know, it seems like no matter what brand you go for, they all have their problems. Just seems like with this one, at least replacing the light engine doesn't seem too bad.

Let me echo the sentiments of the last two posters...go buy that Sammy you've been researching; you won't regret it!

To add weight to what I just said, I'm the member who recently posted the problem I'm having with a shadow that has appeared on the right side of my set, and I then gave a link to the thread for those having the same problem. (No doubt you were referring to that link in your post.) But I still have no regrets for buying the Sammy. These kinds of problems are going to occur (especially with this new technology we call High Definition) at times, but I'm sure the majority of owners will not experience this. And I did buy an EW for 5 years, so I'm ready for any problems that may happen.

Let me add that in calling Samsung to set up an appointment for replacing the LE, I was impressed with the friendly and efficient customer service and I trust they will have it fixed in a timely fashion. The word is that they have made an upgraded LE that will correct the problem permanently, and I would think that this is the LE that would be installed in all of their new sets.

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post #13102 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post

Ok I have a weird problem that just started this morning. The sound on the TV itself is becoming distorted almost like the speakers are going bad (kind of a tinny static sound). THe problem is is that this only occurs on High Def Channels(OTA included) or when I am going through the STB. On "regular" cable (coax direct to TV) 2-99 the sound is normal, the same ofr non HD OTA channels. Anyone ever experience something like this or have any idea what could be happening. Thanks

Ok I think I narrowed down the problem to when the TV is detecting a Dolby Digital Signal coming in, anyone ever experience this? I tried to search, but isnt see anyone with audio distortion. They usually just either have audio or no audio on one certain input. Since this covers but the STB, Coax(direct connect cable), and RF(Direct from Antennae) same problem happens on all 3 inputs. I am hoping this is not a mjor problem and may give Sammy a call, but before I did I just wanted to see if anyon had any ideas, I do have the STB connected to my receiver and the sound is fine (So I think I narrowed it down to the TV and how it handles the Dolby Digital signal that is detected)
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post #13103 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Hogan View Post

They sell literally millions of these sets every year. If there were millions of problem posts, we would have lots of reading to do.

I agree with the gist of your post, but Samsung, as far as I know, hasn't sold a million DLP units in a single year.
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post #13104 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by jaxxx123 View Post

yea its kinda scary that when i was looking at one at BB and CC, the TV has its own lamp LED...didnt you guys say its 5000 hrs?? arent flat panel LCDs good up to 20,000+ hrs? correct me if im wrong

I don't know that it's 20,000 but it's more than 5,000 or whatever the "true" rating of the DLP lamp is. However, keep in mind that once an LCD (or plasma) flat panel's lamp dies, that's it. As I understand it the front projection varieties gradually dim over time and reach their half-life in about 4-5 years of normal use. With a DLP (or other rear projection) you can always replace the bulb when it dies.

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post #13105 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

I agree with the gist of your post, but Samsung, as far as I know, hasn't sold a million DLP units in a single year.

My gut says that's probably correct but I wonder if there's anywhere that publicly reports those numbers. It would certainly be interesting to see.

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post #13106 of 21398 Old 01-11-2007, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbexperience View Post

My gut says that's probably correct but I wonder if there's anywhere that publicly reports those numbers. It would certainly be interesting to see.

I would try their 10-K available on Edgar online.
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post #13107 of 21398 Old 01-12-2007, 05:20 AM
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So after two weeks of ownership I feel as though I made a good choice. After many browsing/viewing sessions in many stores and reading countless threads I bit the bullet and bought the Samsung HL5687S.

Holy BALLS this thing is big heh.

I had a friend throw DVE in his Netflix queue so I'm looking forward to see how the image looks once the unit is calibrated properly. Next thing on the list is a Harmony remote.

Any tips or advice on what I can expect?

Stupid question I can't seem to figure out: is the power button in front supposed to glow blue?

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post #13108 of 21398 Old 01-12-2007, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by grassfeeder View Post

So, with it being delivered tonight - what all should I do to properly prepare my set so that it's looking it's best on Sat./Sun.??

Oh, and thank you all!!!!!!!!

So, a of now here's my setup

Samsung HL-S5678
Yamaha - RX-V1000 - receiver
Sony DVP-NS700P - dvd player
XBox 360
Comcast DVR Box - can't do anything bout that!
Klipsch Reference surround system

If you don't have the VGA cable for the 360, I'd recommend getting it. It will upconvert standard DVD's to 1080p (with or without the HD-DVD add-on) and it looks better (to me at least) than the component connection. Standard DVDs are gorgeous through the 360 when using VGA and it upconverts very well.
I just use the Eliab recommended settings and tweaked a bit to my taste. HD gaming on that set via the 360 will blow you away.... totally addictive.
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post #13109 of 21398 Old 01-12-2007, 07:49 AM
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New guy here. I purchased a 5088w about a month and a half ago and all has been well until yesterday. I was watching a show last night and the thing turned off by its self 3 separate times. I was able to turn it right back on but ..... My wife told me it happened to her yesterday too. Has anyone else heard of this happening, should I contact Samsung? Sorry if this is in the wrong thread, please point me in the right direction if it is.
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post #13110 of 21398 Old 01-12-2007, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brucka View Post

Has anyone else heard of this happening, should I contact Samsung? Sorry if this is in the wrong thread, please point me in the right direction if it is.

You are in the right thread, and it's time to contact Samsung.
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