Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 499 - AVS Forum
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post #14941 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gan911 View Post

Please someone help me...

Did anyone tell you to check the power switch attached to the lamp access door? If you have already checked that then your only option is to call for service.

Calibration Resources:

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post #14942 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Did anyone tell you to check the power switch attached to the lamp access door? If you have already checked that then your only option is to call for service.

huhn? i mean the TV switches back on...and it buzzes a few timnes.... but i have no idea if turning it back on will damage it, etc.
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post #14943 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

It's the other way around. When you turn "overscan" OFF in the SM of some HLS Samsung DLP RPTV sets you are in fact disabling the up-scaling that was used to add about three percent more overscan.

With overscan OFF the amount of overscan (all TV sets have overscan) is about 2%. The pixel mapping is 1:1 but the projector is placed just far enough from the screen so that 2% of the pixels are lost behind the bezel. The only way you can see all 1920x1080 pixels would be to move the light engine mount a little closer to the screen.

Thanks, but why on earth would someone want overscan? I don't get it. Does the setting physically move the projector, or does it do something with the data sent to the mirror array? If it's about making sure there aren't any black borders of unused screen, why don't they just calibrate it once to near perfection (ok 2% is good enough I think) and just forget it? Why zoom in even more?
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post #14944 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gan911 View Post

once again my problem has returned....
just playing my wii...about 5-10 minutes into turning on TV...the TV shuts itself off
Two lights, a standby/temp (red) and lamp (green, furthest to the right), begin to blink. This hasn't been the first time this has happened....some people say overheating, others say something else. I'm just living in a normal townhouse /w a big-ass bush stand w/ at least 4 inches worth of space behind it. Not to mention its only 68 degrees in my house.

Please someone help me...i don't want to brick the TV because I just bought it...but I do have a warantee and a service plan if necessary

thanks!

Have you tried this? Posted one page back for another similiar situation.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Santz View Post

I along with few other people have had this issue. To fix: remove the lamp access panel/door, there is one screw. Then reinstall it securely, making sure that the blue switch is depressed.

This blue switch is what is causing this. That LED combo that flashes on the front when the TV shuts off, means that this panel is not closed. It is designed to power the TV off if the panel is removed. Variations in temperature, etc, can cause the plastic to settle, causing the switch to pop out just enough to trigger the alarm. Either that or the panel was just not installed correctly in the first place.

My TV began shutting off like this so frequently that I could not what for longer than 5 min, w/o it shutting off. Since I did the above, it has never happened again.

Good Luck.

Or time to make a service call.
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post #14945 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klawrence View Post

Thanks, but why on earth would someone want overscan? I don't get it. Does the setting physically move the projector, or does it do something with the data sent to the mirror array? If it's about making sure there aren't any black borders of unused screen, why don't they just calibrate it once to near perfection (ok 2% is good enough I think) and just forget it? Why zoom in even more?

Overscan is in the video processor electronics. Overscan has been around since early television. It is used so variations in broadcasts and sets didn't expose the edges of the picture. Exposure was a bad thing way back when.

More info can be found here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overscan
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post #14946 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:46 PM
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are you sure it isn't in the optics?

In any case I don't see how any of it is relevant to modern displays. If the display accepts a digital source (no signal variance) and if the display has the ability to display the data perfectly on the screen (which LCoS or DLP should -- as was mentioned all you do is move the projector for best fit without underscan), why, even when turning overscan off, is there *still* 2 % not being shown? It's like, hey, I said turn it off yet you're still overscanning. Is it because the manufacturer doesn't want to have to calibrate it for every set?
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post #14947 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:46 PM
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Guys - dived into the SM for the first time tonight. Wow, what a lot of different settings in there. I see that I have the 9/2006 firmware (Nov build). My Philips lamp is 132 watts it says.

Anyway, turned both Gammas to 0 (it says "Film" in brackets).

Didnt do anything with the iris at this time.

Must say that things look a little more muted and dimmer with the gammas to zero. Is this consistent with others' experiences? Looked good, if not a little blah to me, but I'm going to watch some stuff to see if it grows on me. I don't think I'll want to mess with the iris if that will make things appreciably darker yet. I also prefer the Custom setting rather than Movie (for TV watching at least).

What do people use for Contrast and Brightness once Gamma is to 0? The Eliab starter settings or something higher?
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post #14948 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 09:57 PM
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HL-S5688W - How do you know when your tv was built and what firmware it has?

dja2k
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post #14949 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dja2k View Post

HL-S5688W - How do you know when your tv was built and what firmware it has?

dja2k

The build date is on the back sticker near inputs or on the box. The safest way to check firmware is this procedure:
(Enter User MENU and select --> SETUP --> FUNCTION HELP --> Highlight "ON" --> Press INFO button)

It is also in the first page of the SM. More info about the SM and other tech goodies can be found here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=697413
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post #14950 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klawrence View Post

In any case I don't see how any of it is relevant to modern displays.

Quote:


Originally Posted by klawrence Thanks, but why on earth would someone want overscan? I don't get it.

My guess is that you are less than half the age of TV "overscan".

Unfortunately I'm about the same age as TV "overscan".

You should be aware that as long as there is analog TV there will be TV "overscan".

Overscan is required for analog SD TV. No matter how digital your life and my life is, the TV manufacturers are going to build TVs that use overscan to keep them backward compatible with analog SD TV.

Knowing how these things work, it wouldn't surprise me if overscan hung around after all TV is being broadcast in a digital form. Think of all that TV stored on VHS tape -- it needs overscan. Think of all those old TV reruns -- they need overscan unless the owners are willing to spend extra on digitally cropping the edges. Think of all the old TV stored digitally on DVDs that will still need overscan.

I keep reading that about 40% of the folks that have bought HDTV sets don't have any form of HD material to watch, and a very large number of them don't know it. If those folks see garbage around the edges of their favorite TV program what do you think they will do?

Overscan is like the composite connections on the back of your TV. It's backward compatible.

Calibration Resources:

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post #14951 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 11:12 PM
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I am totally lost here, don't even know if I should call my cable company or my tv manufacturer. I swear that the first time I put this cablecard in, the "update channel list" came up and then said "channel list complete". I called the cable company to give them the pairing information, but the screen went away. I didn't know about the info being able to show again from the setup\\cablecard options so I removed the card and inserted in again. Now it stuck at "updating channel listing" . My cable company already has the paring information and they said it might take some time to work and they would call me back the next day. Tv has been on ever since to see if it finishes updating and nothing. Can anyone point me to the right direction of where to go from here?

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post #14952 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 11:24 PM
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There's a ridiculous amount to read. But I bought a Samsung HLS5087W. And there's a Bow/Concave at the bottom of the picture when the tv is in 4:3 mode or when its not in full widescreen mode. Is this a common problem? I had a tech come out but was told that it was a common problem and it was the TV and not the Light Engine. Is there anyway to fix this, other then returning it. Or do you guys just deal with it?
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post #14953 of 21399 Old 02-06-2007, 11:54 PM
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It's a common problem on the SM. Pincusion effect Something to do with the projection screen not being flat but more bowing inwards. I really don't know why they coldn't find it out when they build them. Maybe if I lean my SMY forward the screen will come forward and I will lose the pincusion.
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post #14954 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 05:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hugoguzman View Post

I just updated my HLS-5687's firmware and it worked and everything and even restarted itself. But when I turned it off and then tried to turn it on i got no picture. The lamp light blinks like it's suppose to then i get no picture! after about 5min it turns off! Im upset that this update bricked my TV. I don't recommend it to anyone that doesn't have warranty.

I'm pretty surprised anyone else would attempt this extremely dangerous update after one guy on here already bricked his TV. Were you truly surprised after reading about the other guy's woes? We're all waiting with baited breath to see if now both of you guys get Samsung service to fix it. Good luck. I'll add to your statement and say don't update till we all know the final outcome of both of your cases and it turns out rosy.
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post #14955 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfwald View Post

I'm pretty surprised anyone else would attempt this extremely dangerous update after one guy on here already bricked his TV. Were you truly surprised after reading about the other guy's woes? We're all waiting with baited breath to see if now both of you guys get Samsung service to fix it. Good luck. I'll add to your statement and say don't update till we all know the final outcome of both of your cases and it turns out rosy.


I think this warrants a "STICKY"

Tim
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post #14956 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 06:21 AM
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*Mental Note: DO NOT update firmware.*

Now that I know NOT to do that (thank you gang) I have a non-technical question.

I just ordered the HL-S5687w and it will be here in about a week. I need a stand for it, and I love the matching one by Samsung; problem is it is too short. I have been using the 5085 pedestal version for a few years, and I like that the bottom of the screen is appx. 27" off the ground.

The stand that matches the 5687 is appx. 17.5". Almost a foot loower.

So my question is this: Anyone know of a stand, under $300, that suits this TV and is at least 24 inches high?

Also, since this thread is ridiculously long and search is cumbersome with THIS many posts, can anyone link me to, or suggest, some basic setting adjustments out of the box. I plan to get DVE HD whenever they release it, but until then I am on my own.

Thanks everyone,

Wired1

Play nice. It's just an online forum :)
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post #14957 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by wired1 View Post

*Mental Note: DO NOT update firmware.*

Now that I know NOT to do that (thank you gang) I have a non-technical question.

I just ordered the HL-S5687w and it will be here in about a week. I need a stand for it, and I love the matching one by Samsung; problem is it is too short. I have been using the 5085 pedestal version for a few years, and I like that the bottom of the screen is appx. 27" off the ground.

The stand that matches the 5687 is appx. 17.5". Almost a foot loower.

So my question is this: Anyone know of a stand, under $300, that suits this TV and is at least 24 inches high?

Also, since this thread is ridiculously long and search is cumbersome with THIS many posts, can anyone link me to, or suggest, some basic setting adjustments out of the box. I plan to get DVE HD whenever they release it, but until then I am on my own.

Thanks everyone,

Wired1

For the settings..look for "elliab's settings"...they can be found on almost every page

Tim
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post #14958 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 07:01 AM
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5687 here with new LE due to shadow, and upgraded firmware to 1022 around the same time. I noticed a heavy red shift on whites, pretty bad. Quick fix was to go to picture-my color control and set to standard. I noticed it was on custom before. Only whites had that shift, it was very noticable on Tivo S3 displays. It seems to have cleared up with standard. I'm not sure if the LE replacement or 1022 did something, but switching it back to standard helped.

I'll also add, this might be a factor if you did a SM reset as well. Just an FYI to anyone interested.
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post #14959 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogan View Post

Guys - dived into the SM for the first time tonight. Wow, what a lot of different settings in there. I see that I have the 9/2006 firmware (Nov build). My Philips lamp is 132 watts it says.

Anyway, turned both Gammas to 0 (it says "Film" in brackets).

Didnt do anything with the iris at this time.

Must say that things look a little more muted and dimmer with the gammas to zero. Is this consistent with others' experiences? Looked good, if not a little blah to me, but I'm going to watch some stuff to see if it grows on me. I don't think I'll want to mess with the iris if that will make things appreciably darker yet. I also prefer the Custom setting rather than Movie (for TV watching at least).

What do people use for Contrast and Brightness once Gamma is to 0? The Eliab starter settings or something higher?

Setting the Gammas to 0 has grown on me as the blacks appear "smoother" and darker. Seems to have helped with black crush in may case as well even with DB still "ON" (IRIS in automatic).

It did "mute" or darken the picture somewhat but be sure you view the results in both daytime and nighttime conditions. It did not "mute" the picture THAT much and the picture is still be quite bright in nighttime conditions (I will write a separate post regarding my IRIS experimentation).

Eliab's Starter settings are still fine starting points but you will want to experiment with them. I found that contrast, brightness and color needed adjusting. I am still fussing with mine. Also WARM1 or even NORMAL may be preferred over WARM2. If you like COOL1/2, go for it but does not suit my tastes at all.

IMO, give the Gamma change a day or two to get adjusted to it in both daytime and nighttime conditions before trying anything with the IRIS. It is a completely reversible setting (You did write down your original settings,right?).
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post #14960 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 07:50 AM
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Long time lurker, first time complainer.

After two months of great performance, my 5087 has input problems. Specifically:

Component 1 (DVD Player): "Not Supported Mode"
Component 2 (Wii): Completely green screen
VGA (PC): "Not Supported Mode"
My PC had worked on this TV up until now, so the refresh settings on it are OK.

These problems only appear when the set has been powered on for a while (~1-2 hrs). The picture becomes fuzzy and it degrades until I get no picture at all. I'll call Samsung to dispatch a repairman, but I was wondering if anyone else experienced these issues.

Cheers
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post #14961 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Muad Dib View Post

Setting the Gammas to 0 has grown on me as the blacks appear "smoother" and darker. Seems to have helped with black crush in may case as well even with DB still "ON" (IRIS in automatic).

It did "mute" or darken the picture somewhat but be sure you view the results in both daytime and nighttime conditions. It did not "mute" the picture THAT much and the picture is still be quite bright in nighttime conditions (I will write a separate post regarding my IRIS experimentation).

Eliab's Starter settings are still fine starting points but you will want to experiment with them. I found that contrast, brightness and color needed adjusting. I am still fussing with mine. Also WARM1 or even NORMAL may be preferred over WARM2. If you like COOL1/2, go for it but does not suit my tastes at all.

IMO, give the Gamma change a day or two to get adjusted to it in both daytime and nighttime conditions before trying anything with the IRIS. It is a completely reversible setting (You did write down your original settings,right?).

Agree - I like WARM 1 as to me, WARM 2 seems too pink or red.

The only thing I changed was 2 gammas to zero, (orig 5 and 4) so I am not worried that I will forget the numbers. They also label them and those are the first labels in the series labeled "OEM".

Has anyone found a use for Gamma 1, 2 or 3? They had some labels like "Graphics" and "Linear" I think.
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post #14962 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 07:59 AM
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So the bow/concave at the bottom isn't possible to fix? Is samsung not doing nothing about this? Makes me sad. Anybody have experience with the Oppo 981HD or Samsung DVD-HD960. I plan on getting one for my Samsung HLS5087W. Not sure which one I should get.

I also notice that Eliabs settings is a bit way too dark for my taste. So I just kept my settings on Standard/Warm2. Are there any other basic settings?
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post #14963 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:01 AM
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I'm the owner of the infamous "Leaning Towers of Miami" set. Samsung tech will be at the house, tomorrow. I'll let you all know the outcome. On the phone, the tech felt like it was an issue with the light engine. Even if he's wrong, I hope he'll go ahead and replace the light engine, so I can get the new version and avoid the shadow as the set ages.
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post #14964 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:02 AM
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[quote=Muad Dib]Setting the Gammas to 0 has grown on me as the blacks appear "smoother" and darker. Seems to have helped with black crush in may case as well even with DB still "ON" (IRIS in automatic).

QUOTE]

It seems to me that the Gamma 0 setting makes the whites less bright? (generally a good thing). Watching Ice Age used to almost make me squint when you see a 61" screenful of ice and snow. Now it is more bearable.

I have a feeling that traditional movies will look much better with Gamma 0 (hence the "Film" label for that setting?). BUT I kinda think that Pixar movies or other animated features may actually look a little more bland. On those you almost want eveything to look bright and crisp with high color saturation.

Not sure I will ever mess with the Iris as the Gamma 0 looks "dark" enough for me. We generally watch movies with some lights on in the room, and IMO cranking the iris way down will perhaps make the display look smoother and more realistic, but will also take out some of the "Wow" factor for guests.
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post #14965 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:21 AM
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Ok, so I just used the official VGA cable for the Xbox 360 with my Samsung HL-S6178W and had crappy results.

First of all, the image didn't fill the entire screen (all four sides were bordered), even in the dashboard. Secondly, there was AWFUL amounts of bowing. I can't watch movies or play games with it like this. Right now I switched back to component, but does anybody know what's going on? I'm kinda bummed that I picked up the cable and it was so wonky.

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post #14966 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ghudson666 View Post

Are you saying I should set my Comcast HD DVR box to output 480p and also set my Sony upconverting DVD player to output 480p for the best picture with my HL-S5087W?

I just tried to set my cable box to 480p but the info button on my sammy says my HDMI source is 720p.

But still, am I really going to get the best picture by letting the tv do all the upconverting and scalling? How can the tv double the resolution to 1920 x 1080i without distorting something?


I thought I read somewhere that you should actually feed 480i rather than p? Something about minimizing the de-interlace and re-interlace? I may be remembering it wrong.
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post #14967 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hogan View Post

I thought I read somewhere that you should actually feed 480i rather than p? Something about minimizing the de-interlace and re-interlace? I may be remembering it wrong.

That would not make sense for HD signals, they would be coming into the box at 1080i or 720p and then downrez to 480i and the scaled back to 1080p. No way that is going to be a better picture. IMO the best you can get is a passthrough signal to the TV but the Motorola boxes don't do that so then your options are 720p or 1080i which will be passthrough for some stations but scaled for others. In my case I used the 720p setting when I had my 720p HLN and now use the 1080i setting for my HLS.

The conversion of the SD signal is another issue. Some people prefer the box set to 480i, others to 480p for my eyes leaving the setting on Off works best.

The problem with the gene pool is that there is no lifeguard and the shallow end is much too large
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post #14968 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wired1 View Post

*Mental Note: DO NOT update firmware.*

Now that I know NOT to do that (thank you gang) I have a non-technical question.

I just ordered the HL-S5687w and it will be here in about a week. I need a stand for it, and I love the matching one by Samsung; problem is it is too short. I have been using the 5085 pedestal version for a few years, and I like that the bottom of the screen is appx. 27" off the ground.

The stand that matches the 5687 is appx. 17.5". Almost a foot loower.

So my question is this: Anyone know of a stand, under $300, that suits this TV and is at least 24 inches high?

Also, since this thread is ridiculously long and search is cumbersome with THIS many posts, can anyone link me to, or suggest, some basic setting adjustments out of the box. I plan to get DVE HD whenever they release it, but until then I am on my own.

Thanks everyone,

Wired1

The 'Zen Media Table' from Cost Plus is ideal for the 5687, it's sturdy, looks nice, has plenty of space for components (I have my HK receiver, Center channel speaker, and Cable/DVR box on 1 shelf), and was only $140 when I purchased it last month)
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post #14969 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff AMN View Post

Ok, so I just used the official VGA cable for the Xbox 360 with my Samsung HL-S6178W and had crappy results.

First of all, the image didn't fill the entire screen (all four sides were bordered), even in the dashboard. Secondly, there was AWFUL amounts of bowing. I can't watch movies or play games with it like this. Right now I switched back to component, but does anybody know what's going on? I'm kinda bummed that I picked up the cable and it was so wonky.

I did not like the picture quality, besides the sizing issues, on the VGA xbox input. I took it back and went component as well. I've heard that you can tweak it to look better, but I dunno. Probably best to just leave it at component or go for the hdmi version down the road.

I'm sticking with component for good on 360.
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post #14970 of 21399 Old 02-07-2007, 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Libertarian View Post

Well, my TV is in a bright sunny room, but it wasn't a problem because I had an extra bedsheet handy

Eliab brought a black tarp as well, and we basically pinned both of them up above the windows with some tiny tacks to block most of the sunlight. He told me the room doesn't need to be pitch black for the calibration anyway. So it wasn't a problem at all.

For those of you who go with Eliab, you won't regret it. Standard definition looks good...but once you see the high def picture after calibration, your jaw will literally hit the floor. His services are worth every penny.

I think I understand why ISF calibrators prefer a darkened room when they perform the calibration.

But if the TV is calibrated for a specific ambient lighting environment (darkened), how does the (calibrated) PQ (brightness/color, etc) "work" in the reverse environment, i.e. a well lighted, daytime environment? Does it appear "washed out". Is it "bright" enough? Does it have any "punch"? In particular is the IRIS set to a fixed opening (DB OFF, Closed, SB Gain 100-160) by the ISF calibrators?

In my "case study" the TV comes on about 11:00 AM and goes off around 11:30 PM (retired people). The setup/configuration needs to provide good PQ with no intervention on the part of the user aside from the P.Mode button on the remote. Note that the Gammas are both set to 0 (this SM adjustment works very well).

I have experimented with setting the IRIS to a fixed opening with SB Gain set from 100-160 in increments of 10. This was done in a daytime environment. Various picture modes were tried with various contrast/brightness, etc settings while alternating between SD and HD sources.

The results -- IMO -- the picture was, generally, too dark with the PQ on one source being OK while it appeared washed out on other sources. This was the case for SD versus HD AND for SD/HD show-time material versus SD/HD commercials. Within the SAME show the commercials would look fine while the actual TV show was horrible. The TV simply did not adjust to variances in the source very well. Add to that the change in ambient lighting from dawn to evening and any benefits achieved in a "perfect" calibration for a fixed environment are more than negated by the simple fact that the "perfect environment" is, in truth, a relatively small percentage of the actual viewing time.

For the time being, IMO, the Gammas=0 SM adjustment is a keeper. Its easy, simple and quite an improvement over OTB setup.

As for disabling the DB, there is a reason that Dynamic Black/Iris is advertised as a feature of the newer TVs. For the videophile, with a controlled home theater environment, seeking the perfect picture it may be undesirable. But for those limited to a single multi-purpose family room it may be a blessing.
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