Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 659 - AVS Forum
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post #19741 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abeirnes View Post

Question to anyone who can answer:
I have an HLS-6187 and lately have noticed that my TV is making a constant hum that does not go away. Can other owners hear any kind of noise from their TV when it's powered on? I can easily hear it from my seating position of ~9 feet away.

Thanks

Aaron

Obviously its a moving part. Its either the Fan or Color wheel.
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post #19742 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abeirnes View Post

Question to anyone who can answer:
I have an HLS-6187 and lately have noticed that my TV is making a constant hum that does not go away. Can other owners hear any kind of noise from their TV when it's powered on? I can easily hear it from my seating position of ~9 feet away.

Thanks

Aaron

I can hear a hum if I get within about 2' of the rear of the TV assuming my audio system is muted. This has been the case since I got the TV. It is acceptable to me since it is inaudible if there's any ambient sound.

If this hum is new, then you should probably explore it. As with fans on a PC, if dust collects on the fan (specifically near the motor), strange new sounds can creep up. If you want to explore this yourself, simply remove the back panel of the set and begin carefully sliding out components inspecting the fans. Use compressed air to clean them if they're dirty. Take care to cover the lens with something (like a sandwhich bag) to prevent transferring debris to it.
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post #19743 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abeirnes View Post

Question to anyone who can answer:
I have an HLS-6187 and lately have noticed that my TV is making a constant hum that does not go away. Can other owners hear any kind of noise from their TV when it's powered on? I can easily hear it from my seating position of ~9 feet away.

Thanks

Aaron

Constant as in all the time... or just when its powered on? I have noticed a definite hum while the set is running. It stops about 20 seconds after I power off. I assume its the bulb cooling fan.
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post #19744 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 10:03 AM
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Just when it's powered on. It goes away about 30 seconds after I power down. It's quite noticeable from 9 or so feet away. I just don't seem to remember it being this loud a couple of months ago.
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post #19745 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by abeirnes View Post

Just when it's powered on. It goes away about 30 seconds after I power down. It's quite noticeable from 9 or so feet away. I just don't seem to remember it being this loud a couple of months ago.

If it's still audible after 9', that seems a little too loud. I have noticed, however, that with both my DLPs, they do get a little louder in the winter months (my indoor temp is around 65, while in the summer it's more like 72). Again, the fan hum is only audible when the audio system is muted and when the ambient house noise (A/C, central heat, etc.) is nil.

Also, by your description, it's a fan and not the color wheel. The color wheel spins down immediately upon shut-down. The fan continues to run for another 30 seconds after shut-down.
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post #19746 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post

If it's still audible after 9', that seems a little too loud. I have noticed, however, that with both my DLPs, they do get a little louder in the winter months (my indoor temp is around 65, while in the summer it's more like 72). Again, the fan hum is only audible when the audio system is muted and when the ambient house noise (A/C, central heat, etc.) is nil.

Also, by your description, it's a fan and not the color wheel. The color wheel spins down immediately upon shut-down. The fan continues to run for another 30 seconds after shut-down.

I have the same sound from my fan.

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post #19747 of 21399 Old 01-14-2008, 12:59 PM
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doscrings:

On the Powerstrip timings, how does one figure out the proper timings without constantly
trying to play videos, etc? Given .01 increment adjustments, how did you ever figure out those numbers?
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post #19748 of 21399 Old 01-15-2008, 02:03 PM
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I have a HLS5087w and have had the light engine replaced 3 times and the PCB board replaced once and after some hooting and hollering they agreed to replace the tv since it still has what looks like water spots in the background on really black screens. In 14-21 days I'll be recieving a brand new HLT5076s. Am I doomed or what?
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post #19749 of 21399 Old 01-15-2008, 03:02 PM
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I've had the constant humming noise before, I have heard about it being a power supply issue. I had samsung replace mines, and the noise is gone . Anyways, does anybody have there Samsung pretty close to the wall without having any problems? I know its suppose to be 4" away.
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post #19750 of 21399 Old 01-15-2008, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quakerroatmeal View Post

I've had the constant humming noise before, I have heard about it being a power supply issue. I had samsung replace mines, and the noise is gone . Anyways, does anybody have there Samsung pretty close to the wall without having any problems? I know its suppose to be 4" away.

To clarify:
  • A constant noise (usually high-pitched) while the set is off is usually the power supply.
  • A hum while the set is on is usually a fan. If said hum persists for about 30 seconds after the set is turned off then spontaneously terminates is most likely a fan.
In the first instance, to make sure it's the power-supply, do the following: Ensure the set has been off for long enough for all fans to have stopped (i.e. at least 30 seconds after turning off the set). In my experience, if it's the power-supply, the noise doesn't start up until the set's been off for a long time (more like an hour or two). While you're hearing the noise, unplug the set. I find it easier to unplug the power cord from the set itself. If it's the power-supply, the noise will cease immediately. It will resume upon plugging it back in. If you hear any noise after unplugging the set, look for other components as the culprit for the noise (i.e. HDD on DVR, etc.)

By the way, my power-supply quit whining when I upgraded my UPS to a higher quality, new UPS. From this, I deducted that although some have "faulty" power-supplies, it could be that they are simply succeptible to dirty electricity. A power conditioner may very well rectify this problem and thus prolong the life of the set.
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post #19751 of 21399 Old 01-15-2008, 06:09 PM
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Hello,

I currently use this TV for HD viewing (Direct TV), gaming (Xbox 360, PS3) and movie watching (HD-DVD, BluRay). I am looking to tune my tv for the best overall results for all of these activities. I would really appreciate your input or forward me to a link within AVS that might already have this info.

Thanks,

Paul
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post #19752 of 21399 Old 01-16-2008, 07:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Archangel 70 View Post

Hello,

I currently use this TV for HD viewing (Direct TV), gaming (Xbox 360, PS3) and movie watching (HD-DVD, BluRay). I am looking to tune my tv for the best overall results for all of these activities. I would really appreciate your input or forward me to a link within AVS that might already have this info.

Thanks,

Paul

Are you looking for a free solution or a pro calibration? Personally, I'd recommend the pro calibration (www.avical.com), but there are starter settings for these sets sprinkled throughout this thread.
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post #19753 of 21399 Old 01-16-2008, 12:32 PM
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I just hooked up a new HTPC to my HLS6187 and when I switch the TV to that input, I get the "not supported mode" error.

I can't find any good info on this anywhere. I tried unplugging/replugging, etc but still no luck.

Any ideas?

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post #19754 of 21399 Old 01-16-2008, 04:25 PM
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Ok, update time. I've gotten around the "not supported mode" thing. After about half a day it just started working all on its own. This is the third time that has happened....very weird.

Anyhow, the problem now is getting everything to fit to screen. I suppose I should hit the thread about it and powerstrip, but I wanted to check and see if that's the direction I needed to head first.

I have a PC hooked up via HDMI and when I put it at 1920x1080 it doesn't fit right, the taskbar and whatnot all goes off the screen. If I change it to the second highest resolution (1768x992) which is a really weird resolution, it's closer to fitting with about a quarter of the taskbar cut off.

I was under the impression that with DVI/HDMI everything would just work, and it would be less to deal with. I previously had this hooked up via VGA and when I set it to 1920x1080 everything just fit just about perfectly, no headaches. I was under the impression that doing it digitally instead would make things EASIER, not harder.

So, am I going to need to break out powerstrip and all that other stuff that wasn't necessary via VGA? Is it just that these TVs don't work at 1920x1080 through HDMI (I believe I read that they don't *officially* support it, but since it does 1080p through HDMI I figured it was a pretty natural fit)?

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post #19755 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 06:47 AM
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Okay, I am extremely new to OTA antenna. I hooked up my HLS6187 to a Channel Master 4228 antenna, ran the channel scan, got some good channels in, but was wondering - is there a way to see a percentage of signal/quality?
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post #19756 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 08:31 AM
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I have been very happy with the HL-S6188w for the 19 months that I have owned it. But lately I have had 120hz envy for all those folks able to display their BR and HD-DVD movies in 1080p/24hz. I have seen a difference in the settings and seen the difference the anit-juddering has on some of the new displays.

Am I thinking about selling my set on craigslist and jumping on a Sony KDS-60A3000 before they are all gone (they will be soon out of production).

Has anyone compared these sets of owned both sets? Thoughts?

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post #19757 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 10:05 AM
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I experimented (carefully, but apparently not enough) with my first trip into the service menu.

I have attached a spreadsheet I made to record our Service Menu settings. The spreadsheet was made for a HLS6187W. The advantage to such a spreadsheet is two fold. Its easier than writing everything down for any first time users. Most importantly, though, is Excels "Track Changes" feature. With this activated, as long as you keep the spreadsheet updated it will automatically note the changes you make and allow you to retrace your steps if necessary. If someone else beat me to this then sorry for the repeat, but it seemed like a very good idea. Feel free to change the spreadsheet as you see fit.

Also, I said apparently not careful enough because I accidentally activated the factory reset trying to back out of one of the sub-menus (I didn't hit Menu to go-back, obviously). Not a big deal but it reset my lamp hours. Is there anyway to manually enter the lamp hours?

 

SERVICE MENU.zip 8.515625k . file
Attached Files
File Type: zip SERVICE MENU.zip (8.5 KB, 17 views)
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post #19758 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnick1976 View Post

When it rains, it pours ...

So, since the techs came and replaced my ballast, it makes a slight "groaning" sound on startup. Nothing major, but more noise than on my original ballast. I've heard these sets make the same sound on startup when they're turned off and then turned on very quickly thereafter.

Now, it is making the noise for a few seconds on each startup. After the noise stops, everything's fine ... but that noise is unsettling. Are the ballasts *supposed* to make a noise and, if not, is it the sign of a) a faulty ballast, or b) a dying bulb that the ballast cannot support any longer ... or both?

UPDATE:

The tech came out today and INSISTED it was the color wheel. However he unplugged the color wheel, turned on the set, and the noise still happened.

I should clarify - it isn't so much a groaning sound as it is a COUGHING sound on startup. When the sound is happening, the bulb flickers in-time with the sound ... which still leaves me to believe it's the ballast.

The tech is insisting on replacing the light engine. I wish that wasn't the case since I have the set professionally calibrated ... is there anyone out there who has heard this "coughing" on startup and knows what exactly the sound is?
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post #19759 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 12:52 PM
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Can anyone offer help regarding the Format and stretch options with this TV. I have never had ANY luck.

I have a Samsung HLS6187W and DirecTV. The biggest problem is 4x3 TV that is displayed in letter-box 16x9. Now it seems that the TV should have a mode that zooms on this portion of the picture but nothing I do works.

What stretch/fit modes work best for you all? The worst of the worst is that I choose to display grey bars instead of black (to avoid uneven screen wear, I guess). But with D* the 4x3 image does not quite fill the 4x3 image area assigned by the TV. The result are two small black lines along the edge of both vertical edges of the 4x3 image between the grey bars and the color image. Any ideas here?
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post #19760 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 01:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar116 View Post

...The worst of the worst is that I choose to display grey bars instead of black (to avoid uneven screen wear, I guess)...

This is not necessary with DLPs. There is no risk of burn-in or "screen wear" as you called it. There are no phosphors to age.

Otherwise, it sounds like you're having the TV and the STB both display pillar boxes. My recommendation is that you set your TV to 16:9 (wide), and allow your STB to do the zooming & resizing.

You also asked a question involving personal taste with regard to which "stretch/fit modes work best" for us. My response to that is that I don't like anything to be stretched, cropped, or zoomed. If the material is natively 4:3, then I watch with pillar boxes (but I have my STB set to do this, I leave the TV in 16:9). Again, the pillar boxes will not burn-in. It's impossible with this technology.
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post #19761 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 02:13 PM
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You mentioned that there are no phosphurs to age and "burn-in" is not an issue. While I understand that "burn-in" is not an issue, I WAS thinking that by watching 4x3 material exclusively for a long period of time would age that portion of the screen and not the outside "pillar box" area. Is this incorrect and there is no reason to worry about any of this??

I think I give up on the screen formatting.
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post #19762 of 21399 Old 01-17-2008, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar116 View Post

...I WAS thinking that by watching 4x3 material exclusively for a long period of time would age that portion of the screen and not the outside "pillar box" area...

Not possible. You have nothing to be concerned about with respect to watching anything in any format for any extended amount of time. It is all reflected light. Period.
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post #19763 of 21399 Old 01-18-2008, 04:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nomar116 View Post

Is there anyway to manually enter the lamp hours?

You can't change lamp hours other than to reset them. I did the same exact thing as you did 15 minutes after Dave from Avical calibrated my set. Luckily those settings he changed held and the factory reset does not touch them.

Just make the hours before reset a new cell in your new spreadsheet

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post #19764 of 21399 Old 01-18-2008, 09:10 AM
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Last night while doing rock band on a PS2 (through composite cables), my sound on the my HLS 5087 started breaking up and within a few minutes went dead. I got it back for a minute when I changed sources, but now none of my sources work (HDMI or composite) with the internal speakers. I've checked internal mute, but that is ok. Since I normally listen to normal television viewing through my reciever, the tv is still usable - I just can't use the game systems on it.

Any suggestions or do I need to call the warranty company again (already did shadow fix). Thanks for any suggestions.
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post #19765 of 21399 Old 01-18-2008, 11:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FreeBaGeL View Post

the problem now is getting everything to fit to screen. I suppose I should hit the thread about it and powerstrip, but I wanted to check and see if that's the direction I needed to head first.

I have a PC hooked up via HDMI and when I put it at 1920x1080 it doesn't fit right, the taskbar and whatnot all goes off the screen. If I change it to the second highest resolution (1768x992) which is a really weird resolution, it's closer to fitting with about a quarter of the taskbar cut off.

I was under the impression that with DVI/HDMI everything would just work, and it would be less to deal with. I previously had this hooked up via VGA and when I set it to 1920x1080 everything just fit just about perfectly, no headaches. I was under the impression that doing it digitally instead would make things EASIER, not harder.

So, am I going to need to break out powerstrip and all that other stuff that wasn't necessary via VGA? Is it just that these TVs don't work at 1920x1080 through HDMI (I believe I read that they don't *officially* support it, but since it does 1080p through HDMI I figured it was a pretty natural fit)?

Bump

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post #19766 of 21399 Old 01-18-2008, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rnick1976 View Post

When I hired Eliab to calibrate my set ...

I've just included your post in the owner's list for the HL-Sxx87W. I hope that's the right model.

The list in linked as "All Other Displays" at the bottom of my post.

I'm not currently reading RPTV owner's threads so it's a big help when anyone PM's me with a link to any new calibration reports.
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post #19767 of 21399 Old 01-18-2008, 06:23 PM
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Originally Posted by oldskool75 View Post

After searching for every keyword and most combinations above, I couldn't find an exact conclusive solution to what I've experienced.. although some portions yes..

Originally, I hooked up my pc with an ATI x850 XT vid card to the hls5687w.. Some weird stuff started happening.. (unfortunately, I was kind of 'noobish' with my tv, and so a lot of opportunity to write down info didn't occur to me back then. )

X850 XT with a vga cable - 1920x1080@60Hz...
Originally, ran at full 1080p (1920x1080@60Hz) with no overscan/underscan (minus perhaps the unavoidable physical overscanning). I didn't change a single setting. But then one day I saw that thread with the 'achieve 1:1 pixel mapping with powerstrip'.. Not exactly realizing that I already had that, I downloaded powerstrip and fired it up. That's when everything fell apart. After some 'tweaking', boom, everytime I went to 1920x1080, it was overscanning HUGE (like, a panning virtual desktop, where my window frame was less than 1/6 the entire screen). I could never recover from this.

X850 XT with dvi->hdmi cable - 1920x1080@60Hz
Reading that the hdmi cable should, in theory, fix my problems, I tried this. Unfortunately, I had massive 'underscan' (if that is a real term). Basically, though the PC is driving at 1920x1080, it was only taking up about 2/3 the width of the screen! (looked like SD at this point, but everything squished). I never found a solution to others who've asked about the same scenario..

I eventually gave up and ran my res at 1280x720, which ran flawlessly in vga mode, edge to edge. So I just left it like that after learning from my first mistake. Anyway, my pc wasn't fast enough to play 1080p downloaded content, so 720p was just fine.

Enter the new HTPC system..
(q6600 quad-core 2.4GHz o/c to 3GHz, with a Blu-Ray/HD-DVD ROM player, and ATI HD2600 XT (for BD/HD hw acceleration, and (eventually) downloaded content hw acceleration) .

2600XT - vga - 1280x720
Still works perfectly fine

2600XT - vga - 1920x1080
FIRST time I tried this, I had major overscanning again (like a virtual panning desktop).
SECOND time, I had major 'underscan'.. Again, black borders on each left&right sides of the image, with the image squished/compressed. See attached image.. (sorry, I was in a rush to snap the pic so lighting is horrible.. I highlighted where the corners of the screen *should* approximately be).

While in this current 'underscan' mode, I went into SM, and checked that Overscan is infact 'on'.

Why would my screen be squished at 1920x1080 (as opposed to overscan)? And how can I fix this...?

Is there any powerstrip timings/settings someone can help me out with here that could fix this? The most I could do is stretch it out by 1cm/0.5in using the ati ccc..

I haven't had a chance to try the dvi->hdmi cable yet, but I really want to see this work in vga mode first anyway.

*edit* Errr.. that is, see it work without changing the resolution to something like 1864 x 1046.. I didn't seem to need to do this before.. (and it seems that resolution was to fix an overscan issue, not a compressed/squished image issue)

Please help!
Thanks,
Will

I gave up and went HDMI.. (well, actually I was just waiting for my hdmi cables from monoprice to arrive )

Boom! No more underscanning or overscanning problems!

Infact, I noticed my ATI CCC gives me +/- 15% overscan/underscan options now.. I wish this option was available in VGA mode..

Oh well.. I'm out of HDMI ports now -- until I get my receiver..
LL
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post #19768 of 21399 Old 01-20-2008, 08:20 AM
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I've been digging through this thread for twenty minutes looking for some setting advice to use for PS3 and I can't really find it. When I fist set up my set I used the advice of a prof. calibartor (Eliab, I think?) that posted on here are there any posts by anyone like that who knows the best settings for using the PS3 as a blu ray player? I have a 5 month son so I don't have the luxary of researching for hours what the RGB setting and blah blah blah should be set to. So can some one point me in the right direction?

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post #19769 of 21399 Old 01-20-2008, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by james138 View Post

I've been digging through this thread for twenty minutes looking for some setting advice to use for PS3 and I can't really find it. When I fist set up my set I used the advice of a prof. calibartor (Eliab, I think?) that posted on here are there any posts by anyone like that who knows the best settings for using the PS3 as a blu ray player? I have a 5 month son so I don't have the luxary of researching for hours what the RGB setting and blah blah blah should be set to. So can some one point me in the right direction?

The following is from my notes. The "end-user" comment is with regard to the fact that it does not involve entering the Service Menu. Otherwise, I believe he (Eliab) sets cinema & graphic gamma to 0. And yes, Eliab is an ISF calibrator.

Quote:
Eliab's starter settings (end-user):

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 42 to 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

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post #19770 of 21399 Old 01-20-2008, 12:36 PM
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Has anyone here ever done the DMD->Digital procedure (and then the Digital->DMD)?

I have a light engine replacement coming up within the next week or so. When the tech comes to do it, I'm thinking I might go in ahead of time and do the DMD-to-digital portion and then vice-versa when the tech leaves as a means of keeping my calibration settings.
Anyway, I see in the SM the option for both - is it as simple as selecting these options to execute them?
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