Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 713 - AVS Forum
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post #21361 of 21399 Old 02-28-2014, 02:42 PM
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I don't know if this had been covered before or not. I had for quite a while on my HL-S5087W a nasty cow web on the right side. Finally I had the courage to unscrew the screen. Very carefully I vacuumed the junk plus I also used compressed air. I put it back together and voila the cow webs are gone and no more unpleasant distractions!

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post #21362 of 21399 Old 02-28-2014, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by closeups View Post


May be you are lucky one. I have know my in-law has white-spot issue with his DLP and his TV is newer than mine. I bought in Dec-06.


Do you have same model (HLS-5086 DLP)?

5687W
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post #21363 of 21399 Old 03-01-2014, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jswerve View Post

Where did you purchase your bulb from? I haven't had to buy one in a few years and they were over $100 back then.
I'll PM you with the info.

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post #21364 of 21399 Old 03-01-2014, 11:04 AM
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So I believe my lamp is about done. My picture is so dim now I can hardly see anything. But I want to make sure it's just the lamp. Would there be a different reason why it would go dim all of the sudden? I don't want to buy a lamp only to find out it was something else.

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post #21365 of 21399 Old 03-01-2014, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by S3NATOR View Post

So I believe my lamp is about done. My picture is so dim now I can hardly see anything. But I want to make sure it's just the lamp. Would there be a different reason why it would go dim all of the sudden? I don't want to buy a lamp only to find out it was something else.

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S3N
Sounds like the lamp to me.
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post #21366 of 21399 Old 03-01-2014, 05:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S3NATOR View Post

So I believe my lamp is about done. My picture is so dim now I can hardly see anything. But I want to make sure it's just the lamp. Would there be a different reason why it would go dim all of the sudden? I don't want to buy a lamp only to find out it was something else.

Thanks,
S3N
Last week-end I had a similar problem with my HL-S5087W. Before I go any further did you ever replace the lamp on your TV? If so install the old lamp while you wait for a new one. I did the same and my TV is still going better than when it was brand new. I agree with Jswerve your lamp HAS to be replaced.
Good luck!

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post #21367 of 21399 Old 03-01-2014, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S3NATOR View Post

...My picture is so dim now I can hardly see anything...
Yes, it's your lamp. However, I would never let it get that bad - if for no other reason than it puts undue burden on your ballast trying to keep it lit.
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post #21368 of 21399 Old 03-02-2014, 05:22 PM
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Thanks guys! I just wanted to make sure it wasn't something else. I had to replace the bulb once in the first year and it was covered under warranty. I remember the tech saying he had to replace more than just the lamp but I don't remember what else he replaced. Anyways this TV was moved to the game room a year and a half ago so it doesn't get used much and just noticed how dim it was.
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post #21369 of 21399 Old 03-03-2014, 04:30 AM
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post #21370 of 21399 Old 03-30-2014, 05:10 PM
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My mother and I have the same DLP Samsung HL-S5087W that we've had for several years. Hers is getting very dim (mine still looks fine). I was planning on replacing the lamp and wanted advice on where to buy the bare bulb. I have done a couple of bare bulb replacements for friends and it was quite easy. This is why I'd rather save some money and take the extra time involved to do a "bare bulb" replacement.

There are so many available with a huge price range. My research has confirmed that it's best to buy an original lamp and not a knock-off. Any suggestions on where to buy?

Thanks in advance.

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post #21371 of 21399 Old 03-31-2014, 03:42 AM
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http://www.discount-merchant.com/ I've purchased several bulbs from them in the past and they are great. If you haven't changed the bulb in a long time you should change the bulb and the cage together. The picture difference will be astounding. FWIW, I change my bulb every three years and I can tell the difference every time. And I always hold on the my old bulb for a spare just in case of an emergency.
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post #21372 of 21399 Old 03-31-2014, 06:43 AM
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My Samsung DLP TV (about 11 years old) powers on but there is no picture or sound and the unit shutdown during the startup sequence. Here is the current startup sequence:

1) Push Power On
2) Fans turn on and the set makes its typical noises (fans and color wheel spinning up). Also the lamp appears to light normally.
3) Lamp Light blinks green for 30 seconds - 1 minute
4) Unit shuts down automatically and the red Standby light comes on

I have replaced the lamp and inspected the color wheel. Only thing unusual with the color wheel is that one of the connectors on the color wheel appears to be slightly burnt. Does this sound like a color wheel problem? I don't want to sink too much money time into this thing but if it is a simple color wheel replacement, that would be easy. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
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post #21373 of 21399 Old 03-31-2014, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigDogues View Post

http://www.discount-merchant.com/ I've purchased several bulbs from them in the past and they are great. If you haven't changed the bulb in a long time you should change the bulb and the cage together. The picture difference will be astounding.
Why, in your opinion, does it matter if you change the entire fixture as opposed to only the bare bulb?

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post #21374 of 21399 Old 03-31-2014, 09:57 AM
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Because the cage drys out and degrades over time. The bulb with the housing was only about $10 more than the bulb alone and it is extremely simple to change as a pre-assembled unit. Besides, I'm not sure you can buy the bulb by itself from DM anymore anyway.

EDIT: So I just checked and you can buy a compatible knock off bulb by itself but I wouldn't recommend it. You can find posts from people who have gone this route and the bulbs just don't last as long as the original Phillips bulb. I think I'm on my third one and never had an issue.
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post #21375 of 21399 Old 03-31-2014, 11:17 AM
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I agree with BigDogues, replace the lamp and the housing.  Cheap insurance against accidental breakage from dropping the plain lamp while trying to mount it into the housing.  Just not worth the effort or extra costs.

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post #21376 of 21399 Old 04-01-2014, 11:58 PM
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I spoke to the tech guy at replacementlightbulbs.com and I asked him the question about replacing the bare bulb vs. the entire assembly and he said "unless there is something broken on the housing, there is absolutely no advantage (other than ease of installation) to replace the entire assembly". He sells them either way and gets about $20 more for the entire assembly. I don't think he would say that if he didn't believe it. I went with his recommendation and ordered the bare bulb.

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post #21377 of 21399 Old 04-16-2014, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gregavi View Post

I spoke to the tech guy at replacementlightbulbs.com and I asked him the question about replacing the bare bulb vs. the entire assembly and he said "unless there is something broken on the housing, there is absolutely no advantage (other than ease of installation) to replace the entire assembly". He sells them either way and gets about $20 more for the entire assembly. I don't think he would say that if he didn't believe it. I went with his recommendation and ordered the bare bulb.
Did you ORDER a generic or the better Phillips lamp?

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post #21378 of 21399 Old 06-01-2014, 11:36 AM
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Went into the service menu for the first time in 4 years to check my lamp hours. Looking around made me curious to learn what "bus stop" and "factory" mean. They are both ON / OFF toggles. BUS STOP defaults to OFF, and FACTORY defaults to ON.
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post #21379 of 21399 Old 06-01-2014, 05:40 PM
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I would think that the Factory Default On means that the system will maintain settings as set and determined by the factory. Off would likely be an override to permit some customization, or may possible be used for tech or diagnostic reasons.

Bus Stop probably means stopping the system bus...a component which, as in a computer, acts to connect various electronic components together. This is probably used diagnostically, to isolate a component.

Just a guess.
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post #21380 of 21399 Old 06-26-2014, 11:49 AM
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I just wanted to share a story about my 7 year old set. I've been panning for a new LCD TV for a couple of years now and the wife is holding me to a promise that the Sammy needs to die before we can get a new set. I'd grown dissatisfied with the set for a few years now as the picture quality had lost the pop it once had and i chalked it up that things were just starting to go.

Anyhow, a spider had spun a web inside the set in the last 2-3 months that was slight in the beginning but slowly grew over time and to the point that i had to remove it. I began removing all the screws to the bezel however i wasn't able to completely remove the screen. I was able, with the wife's help, pull the screen enough away on the top so i could vacuum out the dust and web and also wipe clean the reflective mirror, lens, and inside the matte screen. The reflective mirror had the typical window film and the lens had lots of dust on it.

All i can say is I'm stuck with the Sammy for awhile My wife and I are totally blow away how the cleaning made the Sammy perform like new! Everything about the PQ is better (contrast, brightness, color, etc.). I'm happy again........but i still wish i had something flatter and wall mounted

Last edited by Augmont; 06-26-2014 at 11:53 AM.
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post #21381 of 21399 Old 06-26-2014, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Augmont View Post
I just wanted to share a story about my 7 year old set. I've been panning for a new LCD TV for a couple of years now and the wife is holding me to a promise that the Sammy needs to die before we can get a new set. I'd grown dissatisfied with the set for a few years now as the picture quality had lost the pop it once had and i chalked it up that things were just starting to go.

Anyhow, a spider had spun a web inside the set in the last 2-3 months that was slight in the beginning but slowly grew over time and to the point that i had to remove it. I began removing all the screws to the bezel however i wasn't able to completely remove the screen. I was able, with the wife's help, pull the screen enough away on the top so i could vacuum out the dust and web and also wipe clean the reflective mirror, lens, and inside the matte screen. The reflective mirror had the typical window film and the lens had lots of dust on it.

All i can say is I'm stuck with the Sammy for awhile My wife and I are totally blow away how the cleaning made the Sammy perform like new! Everything about the PQ is better (contrast, brightness, color, etc.). I'm happy again........but i still wish i had something flatter and wall mounted

You're joking Right? JK I am thinking about how I need 4K in my life!
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post #21382 of 21399 Old 06-26-2014, 12:21 PM
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You're joking Right? JK I am thinking about how I need 4K in my life!
I already had her convinced of our need to go bigger and that our next TV was only going to be a "gap" set until 4K sets dropped in price so we could get another "I'll never need another TV as this set will keep my happy for then next 10+ years". And then i go do something stupid like clean my Sammy and make it look brand new.
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post #21383 of 21399 Old 06-26-2014, 03:03 PM
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Does anyone have a link to instructions on how to properly clean the mirror and lens? I only find YouTube vids for the HLT slim series.
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post #21384 of 21399 Old 06-30-2014, 02:49 PM
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Does anyone have a link to instructions on how to properly clean the mirror and lens? I only find YouTube vids for the HLT slim series.
Other than learning how to remove the screen completely, it seem pretty ease to take a micro cloth and wipe to clean. I didn't use any cleaners (windex, etc.) just a dry mirco cloth.
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post #21385 of 21399 Old 06-30-2014, 06:34 PM
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I would cringe at removing the screen. There are too many chances to get debris between the layers. I've seen a video for cleaning later "slim" models (I think HLT) by removing the back panel, but they are quite different. I assume it would be no different than removing the back access panel and sliding out the engine for when you need to do other things like replacing fans, boards, etc.
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post #21386 of 21399 Old 07-01-2014, 07:53 AM
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TV doesn't stay on

Just got home from a 10 day vacation and my Samsung HLS-5687W stopped working. It just shuts off and has 2 blinking green lights and a blinking red light?
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post #21387 of 21399 Old 07-01-2014, 08:15 AM
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Just got home from a 10 day vacation and my Samsung HLS-5687W stopped working. It just shuts off and has 2 blinking green lights and a blinking red light?
If I remember correctly that I the sign of a blub\circuit error. Try reseating the bulb and making sure that the "switch" that is depressed by the cover is depressed.
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post #21388 of 21399 Old 07-01-2014, 08:18 AM
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If I remember correctly that I the sign of a blub\circuit error. Try reseating the bulb and making sure that the "switch" that is depressed by the cover is depressed.
Thank you.
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post #21389 of 21399 Old 07-01-2014, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post
I would cringe at removing the screen. There are too many chances to get debris between the layers. I've seen a video for cleaning later "slim" models (I think HLT) by removing the back panel, but they are quite different. I assume it would be no different than removing the back access panel and sliding out the engine for when you need to do other things like replacing fans, boards, etc.
I just don't know how you would be able to access the reflective mirror without remove the screen. let us know what you find out.
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post #21390 of 21399 Old 07-01-2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post
I would cringe at removing the screen. There are too many chances to get debris between the layers. I've seen a video for cleaning later "slim" models (I think HLT) by removing the back panel, but they are quite different. I assume it would be no different than removing the back access panel and sliding out the engine for when you need to do other things like replacing fans, boards, etc.
try this...........Just what's inside a Sammy 'S' 1080 DLP?

and...........Just what's inside a Sammy 'S' 1080 DLP?
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Last edited by Augmont; 07-01-2014 at 09:02 AM.
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