Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 714 - AVS Forum
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post #21391 of 21419 Old 07-01-2014, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
If I remember correctly that I the sign of a blub\circuit error. Try reseating the bulb and making sure that the "switch" that is depressed by the cover is depressed.

I have tried to reseat the bulb, replaced the bulb with an older bulb that was working before but was dim, taped the safety switch for the cover in the depressed position, and bled the power. Nothing will work. The TV comes on for about 30 secs and looks great then shuts off and all 3 lights blink. I don't hear any unusual noises. This is an OEM Philips bulb replaced in April of 2012. If the ballast was bad wouldn't it keep trying to fire? The bulb lights right up at the beginning and still looks great until it shuts off?

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post #21392 of 21419 Old 07-01-2014, 07:35 PM
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Count the blinks and then search for that "code". The number of blinks is almost a diagnostic report (basic). I've seen multiple blinks and have the set turn off in the past,
But that was usually due to "heat" etc. Either a power off or unplugging and letting it reset for 5 min or so would "fix" it.


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post #21393 of 21419 Old 07-01-2014, 07:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Ph8te View Post
Count the blinks and then search for that "code". The number of blinks is almost a diagnostic report (basic). I've seen multiple blinks and have the set turn off in the past,
But that was usually due to "heat" etc. Either a power off or unplugging and letting it reset for 5 min or so would "fix" it.


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It doesn't do a specific number of blinks it just blinks until you either unplug it or turn the power on again. It shut off a few minutes ago and is still blinking all 3 lights.
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post #21394 of 21419 Old 07-01-2014, 07:42 PM
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I ordered a new OEM bulb. I have about 27 months on the current OEM Philips and I am a little skeptical that it failed already but I need to eliminate that as the issue.
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post #21395 of 21419 Old 07-05-2014, 04:27 AM
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Bulb fixed it. Too bad you can't determine that before ordering. Glad that's the only problem. Wierd though the last bulb was a genuine OEM Philips. Only got 2 years out of it and it looked great.
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post #21396 of 21419 Old 07-05-2014, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jswerve View Post
Bulb fixed it.
Good to hear.

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Originally Posted by Jswerve View Post
...Wierd though the last bulb was a genuine OEM Philips. Only got 2 years out of it...
Not too uncommon. You got a dud. I replace mine on average every year. I now distinctly see the dimming, and although still watchable, I can't abide it. I know how good a fresh new lamp looks, and I can't stand to keep looking at a suboptimal image nor do I want to muck around with brightness / contrast settings to account for an aging lamp. As a result, I have a closet full of partially used bulbs from which many users may have gotten several more hours of use.
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post #21397 of 21419 Old 07-05-2014, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post
Good to hear.

Not too uncommon. You got a dud. I replace mine on average every year. I now distinctly see the dimming, and although still watchable, I can't abide it. I know how good a fresh new lamp looks, and I can't stand to keep looking at a suboptimal image nor do I want to muck around with brightness / contrast settings to account for an aging lamp. As a result, I have a closet full of partially used bulbs from which many users may have gotten several more hours of use.
I've had a white spot directly above the power button on the screen that's really most noticeable when you are standing up and above normal viewing angle?
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post #21398 of 21419 Old 07-18-2014, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Jswerve View Post
I've had a white spot directly above the power button on the screen that's really most noticeable when you are standing up and above normal viewing angle?
Does this happen in a Totally dark room? There is possibility of light coming in through the screen, reflecting off of the mirror and back onto the screen.

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post #21399 of 21419 Old 08-20-2014, 07:00 AM
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Question Found a HLS5087W

Found a HLS5087WX that someone was going to trash. Looked in good physical shape, and included the remote. I powered it up and after two power up audio flourishes, it eventually starts flashing the three lights. No picture came on at all. Everything I've read says that's the bulb. I'm willing to spend a few bucks on a lamp to see if that's the case. If it's not that lamp, would it be worth taking it anywhere to service it? Or is there any way to connect an RS232 to it and read anything regarding an error code?

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post #21400 of 21419 Old 11-10-2014, 05:32 PM
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Picture was getting dimmer so I purchased a new Philips bulb and cage. I installed it and all was well for 4 weeks. Watching TV last night the screen suddenly went blank with no blinking light codes. Wouldn't restart so I unplugged it. Every time I plug it back in it goes through the following sequence:

  • Lamp light blinks for about 15 seconds
  • Lamp light stops blinking and then standby/temp light turns on for about 2 seconds
  • Sequence repeats 3 times - then all 3 lights blink indefinitely

I took the lamp out and it looks OK; although I'm not sure what a bad bulb would look like . I cleaned the contacts, reinstalled it, and watched what happened when I plugged it back in and started it. While the lamp bulb is blinking on the front it appears that the bulb is trying to light - it seems to arc and have low intensity blinking/arcing for a few secs; stops; then repeats. Then the red light goes on and the sequence starts all over again as detailed above.


Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help.

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post #21401 of 21419 Old 11-10-2014, 06:09 PM
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The 3 failed attempts can be simply a lamp failure, but it can also be color wheel seizure, etc. Have you tried re-seating the lamp? Making sure the blue safety door switch is in the downward position? If you're going to the trouble of re-seating the lamp, also have a close inspection of it. It may have just blown and loose glass will be apparent.

Did you keep the old dim lamp? If so, and all the aforementioned doesn't pan out, you could put the dim lamp back in and see if the set will at least boot up. That'll narrow it down.

Let us know what you find out.
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post #21402 of 21419 Old 11-10-2014, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAKn2 View Post
Picture was getting dimmer so I purchased a new Philips bulb and cage. I installed it and all was well for 4 weeks. Watching TV last night the screen suddenly went blank with no blinking light codes. Wouldn't restart so I unplugged it. Every time I plug it back in it goes through the following sequence:

  • Lamp light blinks for about 15 seconds
  • Lamp light stops blinking and then standby/temp light turns on for about 2 seconds
  • Sequence repeats 3 times - then all 3 lights blink indefinitely

I took the lamp out and it looks OK; although I'm not sure what a bad bulb would look like . I cleaned the contacts, reinstalled it, and watched what happened when I plugged it back in and started it. While the lamp bulb is blinking on the front it appears that the bulb is trying to light - it seems to arc and have low intensity blinking/arcing for a few secs; stops; then repeats. Then the red light goes on and the sequence starts all over again as detailed above.


Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for the help.
Sounds like you just got a bad new bulb. It's giving a bad bulb flash sequence. See if you can exchange it. I couldn't tell myself the difference between the bad bulb I replaced and the new one. They looked the same to me. Not like incandescent bulbs that you can shake and hear the broken filament.
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post #21403 of 21419 Old 11-11-2014, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Deezul View Post
...I couldn't tell myself the difference between the bad bulb I replaced and the new one. They looked the same to me. Not like incandescent bulbs that you can shake and hear the broken filament...
In most cases this is true. However, one time I did have a bulb actually pop with resulting shattered glass (still contained within the enclosure).
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post #21404 of 21419 Old 11-11-2014, 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post
The 3 failed attempts can be simply a lamp failure, but it can also be color wheel seizure, etc. Have you tried re-seating the lamp? Making sure the blue safety door switch is in the downward position? If you're going to the trouble of re-seating the lamp, also have a close inspection of it. It may have just blown and loose glass will be apparent.

Did you keep the old dim lamp? If so, and all the aforementioned doesn't pan out, you could put the dim lamp back in and see if the set will at least boot up. That'll narrow it down.

Let us know what you find out.
When I pulled it out again I did inspect it and saw nothing out of the ordinary. I did reseat it; and then taped the door switch down so I could watch what was happening. I also shorted out the door switch as well as the temp sensor to eliminate those possibilities. Unfortunately I tossed the old lamp 4 weeks ago, not thinking I would ever need it again....

I was hoping that my visual of the lamp attempting to light the three times (accompanied by a high pitch sound) would be something someone would recognize as a specific failure.
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post #21405 of 21419 Old 11-13-2014, 12:15 PM
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I ended upfinding someone with the same TV; they tried my bulb and it was indeed burntout.


I contactedthe seller and they stated that an early failure like this is indicative of abad ballast – This circuit board with time starts to pullout less voltage than what it did originally. A new lamp requires more powerfrom the ballast than an old one due to all the mercury gas in the new bulb”


Is that correct? Could my ballast have caused a bulbfailure in less than 4 weeks?

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post #21406 of 21419 Old 11-13-2014, 12:40 PM
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...Is that correct? Could my ballast have caused a bulbfailure in less than 4 weeks?...
Yes, it certainly can. And the ballast is pretty easy to replace. However, you could also have simply had a bad lamp. I don't recall the tolerances, but someone on here can tell you how to confirm your ballast is outputting the correct amount.
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post #21407 of 21419 Old 11-13-2014, 04:49 PM
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Yes, it certainly can. And the ballast is pretty easy to replace. However, you could also have simply had a bad lamp. I don't recall the tolerances, but someone on here can tell you how to confirm your ballast is outputting the correct amount.


I appreciate the replies/help. So is it your recommendation to replace the ballast before I plug the next lamp in?
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post #21408 of 21419 Old 11-13-2014, 06:40 PM
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I appreciate the replies/help. So is it your recommendation to replace the ballast before I plug the next lamp in?
You can do the following:
  1. Replace the lamp, banking on the chance that you just got a bad lamp.
  2. Test the ballast's output (someone in this thread explains how), then replace if necessary.
  3. Replace the ballast without going through the trouble of testing first. I have a spare ballast in storage that I've had for at least 2 years. It cost me ~$75 from samsungparts.com.

Personally, I would just replace the lamp again. I would just chalk it up to a bad lamp and a seller trying to get out of replacing it. That said, he may very well be correct.

You haven't mentioned this, but a telltale sign that you have a failing ballast is a flickering lamp (this is not a definitive diagnostic, by the way). If you had that phenomenon prior to your initial lamp getting dim, then I would replace the ballast.
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post #21409 of 21419 Old 11-14-2014, 06:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 120inna55 View Post
You can do the following:
  1. Replace the lamp, banking on the chance that you just got a bad lamp.
  2. Test the ballast's output (someone in this thread explains how), then replace if necessary.
  3. Replace the ballast without going through the trouble of testing first. I have a spare ballast in storage that I've had for at least 2 years. It cost me ~$75 from samsungparts.com.
Personally, I would just replace the lamp again. I would just chalk it up to a bad lamp and a seller trying to get out of replacing it. That said, he may very well be correct.

You haven't mentioned this, but a telltale sign that you have a failing ballast is a flickering lamp (this is not a definitive diagnostic, by the way). If you had that phenomenon prior to your initial lamp getting dim, then I would replace the ballast.

There was no indication of any change/difference before the bulb went. I was watching a football game when suddenly the screen went blank. No indication beforehand.

I would gladly check the ballast output if someone tells me how.

Any recommendations on bulbs or where to purchase?

Thanks!
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post #21410 of 21419 Old 11-14-2014, 08:12 AM
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...There was no indication of any change/difference before the bulb went. I was watching a football game when suddenly the screen went blank. No indication beforehand....
I'm referring to the initial lamp that you said was dim. Was there any flickering the weeks and months prior to your noticing it was dimming? That's often associated with a failing ballast.

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...I would gladly check the ballast output if someone tells me how...
I can't help you there. It was done somewhere in this thread, I believe.

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...Any recommendations on bulbs or where to purchase?...
That's easy. http://www.samsungparts.com/ (aka J&J International). Will be OEM.
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post #21411 of 21419 Old 11-14-2014, 08:29 AM
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...I would gladly check the ballast output if someone tells me how....
Start here: http://www.fixyourdlp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=46
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post #21412 of 21419 Old 11-20-2014, 07:16 AM
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Personally, I would just replace the lamp again. I would just chalk it up to a bad lamp and a seller trying to get out of replacing it. That said, he may very well be correct.
So I took your advice and decided to save the extra cost for a possibly good ballast and just replaced the bulb. So far so good; but then again the last bulb was good for the first few weeks as well...


Thanks for all the info!
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post #21413 of 21419 Old 11-20-2014, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAKn2 View Post
So I took your advice and decided to save the extra cost for a possibly good ballast and just replaced the bulb. So far so good; but then again the last bulb was good for the first few weeks as well...


Thanks for all the info!
Give a month. If all is still good (it will be), please report back here. Your experience will help someone. Thanks!
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post #21414 of 21419 Old 11-22-2014, 10:27 PM
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Hello guys, I've celebrated many happy years together with this Sammy. In almost 9 years, I've only had to replace the bulb 3 times (I just put one in). I'm coming across a new issue and cant seem to find any similar issues anywhere online.
- the set (hls7178) seems to pause, flicker (green horizontal lines about 2"-3" thick across the whole screen, then resets itself.

- this seems to also get triggered when we switch from one source (cable) to another (ps3).

It is happening more frequently now, even without the source switching trigger.

Any advice would help at this point.

Thanks in advance
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post #21415 of 21419 Old 11-23-2014, 04:39 AM
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Hello guys, I've celebrated many happy years together with this Sammy. In almost 9 years, I've only had to replace the bulb 3 times (I just put one in). I'm coming across a new issue and cant seem to find any similar issues anywhere online.
- the set (hls7178) seems to pause, flicker (green horizontal lines about 2"-3" thick across the whole screen, then resets itself.

- this seems to also get triggered when we switch from one source (cable) to another (ps3).

It is happening more frequently now, even without the source switching trigger.

Any advice would help at this point.

Thanks in advance
A little more information may help us sort this out. What do you have connected the set, and how. For instance, is there just one HDMI cable coming from an AVR, or do you have other things connected directly to the set? What connections are you using? (HDMI, component?)

Unless it's a simply cable issue, it could be an I/O board failing.
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post #21416 of 21419 Old 11-23-2014, 10:40 AM
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Sorry, I have ruled out all my components (ps3, cablebox, Yamaha receiver) as being the contributing cause of this issue. The issue occurs no matter what is directly connected via HDMI to the TV also. My original setup was having the ps3 & cable wired via HDMI, through the Yamaha receiver, then to the TV's HDMI in. I have had this setup working flawlessly for over 7 years.

Hope this helps a bit.
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post #21417 of 21419 Old 11-23-2014, 10:41 AM
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Have also upgraded to newer versions of the HDMI cables. Issue continues. As of today, now I notice my reds and greens are going bad, no matter what settings we have the tv on.
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post #21418 of 21419 Old 11-23-2014, 01:11 PM
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Bad I/O board.
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post #21419 of 21419 Old 11-23-2014, 09:27 PM
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Bad I/O board.


Thank you. Should be an easy fix on this model right? I've only replaced the bulbs. Any other suggestions on replacement parts as preventative maintenance? ie color wheel or ballasts?
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