Samsung 1080p Owner's Thread --- HLSxx87W/HLSxx88W DLP Models - Page 715 - AVS | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21421 of 21431 Old 01-08-2015, 07:34 AM
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Fire Stick

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Originally Posted by juny View Post
So i just purchased the Amazon Fire Stick and tried to connect it ot my TV, but I just get a Display not supported message on the TV. I can successfully use the HDMI ports for my cable box, blu-ray player, xbox 360, but the amazon fire stick does not work. Anybody else able to get the Fire Stick to work with their tv?

Nothing wrong with the fire stick as it works on other tvs.
I was pre-ordered and received a Fire Stick as well. Mine is on another TV at the moment. I will move it to my DLP and circle back on this thread tonight.

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post #21422 of 21431 Old 01-14-2015, 06:35 AM
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Is it time for LCD?

I've really been itching to buy a new television the last few months. I bought my 5687 new in 07 and have had zero problems . 19,000 hours on my first bulb(although could have been replaced at about 17,000) and have probably 19000 on the current bulb. I've been looking at the samsung 6350, but don't want to be disappointed. What are you thoughts on making the change to LCD? Have you guys made the change and if so, what are your thoughts? I still feel like the 5687 has a great picture but hard to compare unless the LCD is in my House!
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post #21423 of 21431 Old 01-14-2015, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miker104 View Post
I've really been itching to buy a new television the last few months. I bought my 5687 new in 07 and have had zero problems . 19,000 hours on my first bulb(although could have been replaced at about 17,000) and have probably 19000 on the current bulb. I've been looking at the samsung 6350, but don't want to be disappointed. What are you thoughts on making the change to LCD? Have you guys made the change and if so, what are your thoughts? I still feel like the 5687 has a great picture but hard to compare unless the LCD is in my House!

I made the change from a 6188 to p60 Vizio and am very happy. The blacks and contrast are leagues ahead of the DLP. The only thing you will need to get used to really is the motion. It is handled differently then with DLP, but really I haven't been bothered by it. You will most likely not be disappointed by any current TV as long as you stay away from entry level sets. Personally I am just waiting for OLED or another tech to get cheaper so I can upgrade.


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post #21424 of 21431 Old 01-27-2015, 05:45 PM
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I have an issue with my HLS5687wx/xaa. There is a flickering snow like effect that isn't evident all the time. All sources do this. still images appear to be the worst. Live TV such as news or sports look great. if you look closely you can catch the flickering in some spots of the screen but it is not constant. If I switch to Apple TV the flickering is horrible and constant, almost unwatchable. I will say that it seems to be worse on HDMI 2. Any kind of white text it is very evident. I have been searching for days and can't find an answer anywhere. The bulb is practically new, I just replaced the color wheel today, which I was told was the problem. The color wheel was definitely bad and needed replacing but the problem is exactly the same. I don't want to start replacing parts if they don't need to be. I hope this post isn't too long, i am just trying to give as much info as I can. The bulb and color wheel were both oem by the way. I really need your help!! It doesn't look like the strobe effect that some people have and the dots don't stay so it doesn't appear to be the white dot problem either. unless this is how it starts? Thanks in advance for any help.
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post #21425 of 21431 Old 02-01-2015, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juny View Post
So i just purchased the Amazon Fire Stick and tried to connect it ot my TV, but I just get a Display not supported message on the TV. I can successfully use the HDMI ports for my cable box, blu-ray player, xbox 360, but the amazon fire stick does not work. Anybody else able to get the Fire Stick to work with their tv?

Nothing wrong with the fire stick as it works on other tvs.

I had the same issue. The stick worked on other televisions but when I tried it on the Samsung it wouldn't display.
I had to bump the resolution down to 720 in order for it to work. I did try experimenting with different settings (it's been about a month so I don't remember what I tried) but it still wouldn't display anything past 720.

Doing a search for others having the problem back when I tried gave no results. The Chromecast (that is normally setup for the televison) has no issues.

Though this did irk me a bit. I figured it wasn't that big of a deal since the television will be getting replaced in a few months and the Fire TV stick was destined for the bedroom television anyway.

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post #21426 of 21431 Old 02-09-2015, 04:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andreo View Post
I had the same issue. The stick worked on other televisions but when I tried it on the Samsung it wouldn't display.
I had to bump the resolution down to 720 in order for it to work. I did try experimenting with different settings (it's been about a month so I don't remember what I tried) but it still wouldn't display anything past 720.

Doing a search for others having the problem back when I tried gave no results. The Chromecast (that is normally setup for the televison) has no issues.

Though this did irk me a bit. I figured it wasn't that big of a deal since the television will be getting replaced in a few months and the Fire TV stick was destined for the bedroom television anyway.

Thanks, had to bump mine down to 720 to work. I had to use the Amazon Fire TV instructions (not Fire Stick) to get the Stick to automatically switch resolutions. For reference, hold UP and REWIND on the remote for several seconds and the Stick will auto switch resolutions.
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post #21427 of 21431 Old 02-11-2015, 03:17 PM
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Ohmygosh, thank you SO much for the tip to hold the Rewind and Up button!! I can't tell you how long I spent trying to troubleshoot this. Of course Amazon's help was useless. They should know what to do! I even went to my parents' house to test the stick on their TV and it worked. I should have set it to 720p when I was there, but chose the higher setting, got home, and It failed. Thanks to YOU... it worked on my 8+ year old Samsung HLS6187W TV. I am SO relieved!!

Kim
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post #21428 of 21431 Old 02-27-2015, 03:09 PM
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I have an 8yr. old Samsung HLS5687W. I am trying to remove the screen assembly to remove smudges and dust. I removed the screws around the perimeter and the top and sides came loose but the bottom will not budge. Any help appreciated. (just found this posted in 2006 by Eliab: post #3501 ) will try that and post my results later.

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post #21429 of 21431 Old 03-18-2015, 04:39 PM
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HL-S5088W owner here...

There's a lot of pages here, and it has been a long time since have posted or even checked back to follow this thread. Recently, I got a TWC set top box (Cisco 4742HDC) and have tried outputting from the IEEE1394 output on this set top box to a JVC DVHS deck. Viewing the cable box firewire output through the TV (D-Net) looks fine, but when recorded...the recorded tape is full of glitches. Similar to a bad signal with an antenna where you get the patches of blocking in the picture. I tried other connection methods (ex. set top box direct to DVHS) with the same result. Additionally, I tried another of these boxes so it's not set top box that's operating differently. The DVHS deck has always played and recorded fine using D-Net with over the air HDTV stations using the HDTVs internal tuners and also these same local HD stations through a basic TWC cable connection (sans box). That uses the QAM tuner to my understanding, where it picks up the HD local stations (only) along with the basic analog cable ones. So with that background info out of the way...

I'm thinking about seeing if the cable set top box with DVR included will allow firewire output to a DVHS that doesn't include glitching....or a CableCard direct to the HL-S5088W.

For those owners who have experience with CableCards and these sets, what are your thoughts? Did you have any issues with the TV resulting from use of the CableCard? About 4-5 years ago, I lost the OSD on the Samsung and it required an expensive repair, a little over $1K to replace the main I/O board. Thankfully, I was under a 5 year extended warranty at the time and it covered the repair. I've been fine ever since. A major concern as I'm now contemplating the CableCard is this: I recall some members here a long time ago mentioning that they lost the OSD on their sets after using the CableCard for a period of time. They attributed use of a CableCard to eventually damaging the I/O board on their sets. Was this something isolated to a few members or did this end up being something of a pattern? I do not have plans to replace the set, but at the same time, if it broke and the repair costs were the same as the first repair I had, I'd be better off purchasing a new set altogether. I still like archiving major sporting events to DVHS so a set like this one which has IEEE1394 is one I'd like to keep around and keep functional.

Thanks for reading, and any advice is appreciated!

Last edited by Brian81; 03-18-2015 at 04:59 PM.
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post #21430 of 21431 Old 03-22-2015, 06:10 PM
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I have a HL-S7178 & a JVC HM-DT100. The last time I attempted recording using FireWire, it was from a LG PVR. It worked OK,
but the PVR's hard drive was small and could not store much. (I don't remember what the resolution was, but the DVHS recorder's max
res is only 1080i) I never have tried to record from the TV, as I now have a TIVO (With the Terabyte HDD) can record ~125 hrs
of 1080p programs. Additionally tape is serial access & the TIVO storage is random access. (I can select ANY of the saved
programs at any time) I keep the DVHS just so I can play the various flavors of VHS tapes that I still have.

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post #21431 of 21431 Old Today, 09:26 AM
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61" Samsung DLP. model HL-T6187SA. Service tech told the original owner that the problem is with the DMD board. WHile I can't troubleshoot, i can change parts and am thinking about trying to find that board somewhere and change it. My question is: do any of you know if the DMD board would likely be the culprit for there being a black band onscreen? Attached is a pic of the issue. The tech said the part is $230 but if I do it myself I first have to figure out where to buy the part.

I posted this question weeks ago in it's own thread, with no answers. Hopefully this thread is better read.
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