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post #3301 of 3326 Old 10-27-2011, 05:50 PM
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IMPORTANT NOTICE

I maintain the informational web site on Sony optical block and related problems with their 2002-2007 rear projection liquid crystal TVs. Sony had been running an "optical block program" for about 1-1/2 years in which owners of these failed TVs received discounts off newer direct-view LCD TVs in exchange for a legal release. On 10/27/2011, the program was abruptly terminated. A new discount program was implemented a few days later (on 11/1/2011). However, the magnitude of the discounts was significantly reduced, and it has received a great deal of criticism.

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Sony LCD Rear Projection TV Problems: informational web site
SPL Moxi FAQ: comprehensive guide to Moxi DVRs.
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post #3302 of 3326 Old 12-02-2011, 11:19 AM
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Wow, I'm grateful I was able to use the program before it changed. Thanks very much for your informational site. It was that page and this forum that convinced me to give this a try.

FWIW, I went back and forth several times w/the program folks, hoping that I could get a 50" to replace my ~5 yr old KDF-46E2000, as I noticed that several other folks were able to do this. However I was told that I could only be offered the same size replacement, and that the larger sizes were being held for owners of that size.

In the end I was offered:

KDL-46NX720 $500 +tax
KDL-46HX729 $380 +tax
KDL-46EX720 $250 +tax

This was in Aug/Sep, so I expect current offers are different.

I went with the EX, and it's a very nice set, with only a few slight design & use quirks.
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post #3303 of 3326 Old 12-02-2011, 12:06 PM
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I am glad I did my swap last Jan for my 46e2000 as I got the 55ex500 for $200.

"Dang! You got shocks, pegs... lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps? "

Sony 55EX500 Settings
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post #3304 of 3326 Old 12-19-2011, 05:52 PM
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Hey all - great information. Admittedly, I didn't read everything, but a few things I was hoping you all could assist me with.

I have the 46E2000 and just has to replace the bulb. First time I turned it on all worked well. Now when I turn it on it blinks green for a while and then blinks red. I click on again and it turns on with no issue.

Once it's on it's okay but on occasion it will flicker randomly and I'll see the colors go slightly off - like a different shade.

Not sure what to do next? Get a new bulb? Reinstall the new bulb again? Get a new TV?

Any help or guidance is appreciated!
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post #3305 of 3326 Old 12-20-2011, 06:39 AM
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Did you reset the lamp in the user menu?

Indecision may or may not be my problem.
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post #3306 of 3326 Old 12-20-2011, 09:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mnc View Post

Did you reset the lamp in the user menu?

Yes - for the most part it's working fine but after a bit the picture will flicker and the colors will be a bit off and then it will go away.

I emailed the place I bought the lamp from as i suspect it's a faulty lamp
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post #3307 of 3326 Old 12-22-2011, 01:34 AM
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The center of my kdf-50e2000 has a yellow tint now. It's mostly noticeable on a white background. I guess it's the optical block issue.

What are my options?
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post #3308 of 3326 Old 03-01-2012, 08:32 PM
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I see this thread is just about dead. Just wanted to post that my lamp blew last weekend. After a bad experience with a complete housing assy, I ordered just the (Phillips brand) lamp from an Amazon partner. Arrived in 5 days. Replacement in the housing was pretty easy although I did watch a YouTube video first which was helpful. Took 3 tries to get the housing back into the TV correctly but it's installed, working as it should, and the picture is definitely a little brighter than the 5 year old lamp which probably had close to 10,000 hours on it.

Hoping to replace the TV with a plasma sometime this year and send this one down to the basement.
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post #3309 of 3326 Old 03-10-2012, 05:22 PM
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Recently noticed the blank screen and side bars (including when picture is framed ratio) of our Sony KDF-46E2000 are dark blue instead of the normal black! With that said the picture is beautiful, sharp and colors are vibrant. Blacks are true black. Picture setting is default standard.

What could be causing such an anomaly?

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post #3310 of 3326 Old 07-08-2012, 12:48 PM
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Just replaced the bulb on my KDF-42E2000 and now there is a 2" red band at the top of he tv screen. The old bulb is still alive and shows no sign of this color band when reinstalled. What could it be? Warranty is now up...need help!

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post #3311 of 3326 Old 07-08-2012, 01:45 PM
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Both bluish blacks and the red band are signs of optical block failure. See my web site at the link in my signature.
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post #3312 of 3326 Old 07-08-2012, 03:20 PM
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I would agree but isn't it odd that the old bulb is perfect other than not being quite as bright as a new bulb? There is also a small light green band across the bottom of the screen.

It does look exactly like this pic"

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post #3313 of 3326 Old 07-08-2012, 05:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketFoot View Post

I would agree but isn't it odd that the old bulb is perfect other than not being quite as bright as a new bulb? There is also a small light green band across the bottom of the screen.
It does look exactly like this pic"

picture deleted

What often happens with these sets is that the flaws are first noticed when the lamp is replaced. It doesn't mean a new lamp is the problem, or that it caused the tv to fail, only that the flaw is now visible with the extra light output from a new lamp.

From new to the typical time of failure, generally these lamps lose about half of their total light output.
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post #3314 of 3326 Old 07-09-2012, 03:30 AM
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Thanks guys...Looks like I'm buying a new TV...I'm not paying that kind of cash for a part when I could almost buy a whole new set! I've been wanting a new LED big screen with internet for a while now. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise?

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post #3315 of 3326 Old 07-09-2012, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RocketFoot View Post

Thanks guys...Looks like I'm buying a new TV...I'm not paying that kind of cash for a part when I could almost buy a whole new set! I've been wanting a new LED big screen with internet for a while now. Maybe this is a blessing in disguise?

Your problem seems to be the optical block. Before buying another HDTV read the following post:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/687072/the-official-sony-e2000-series-thread/3300#post_21136252

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post #3316 of 3326 Old 11-12-2012, 10:48 AM
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I have the same issue. Red bar at the top. Replacing the bulb WILL NOT FIX this problem. Don't waste your time. It's a bad optical block-more specific, worn filters within the block. I emailed Sony, they offered me a
OFFER:

KDL55HX750 for $943.00 + any applicable taxes

It's about $350 off the lowest price I could find online, but not as much of a discount as I feel it should be.
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post #3317 of 3326 Old 11-12-2012, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

picture deleted
What often happens with these sets is that the flaws are first noticed when the lamp is replaced. It doesn't mean a new lamp is the problem, or that it caused the tv to fail, only that the flaw is now visible with the extra light output from a new lamp.
From new to the typical time of failure, generally these lamps lose about half of their total light output.

I agree. These optical blocks should not fail at such a low number of usage hours. I have about 500 hours into my 2nd bulb since new and now have the red bar issue. That is way too early for something designed to be very durable.

More info:

https://sites.google.com/site/sonylcdrptvproblems/#TOC-Optical-block-problems---Sony-discount-settlement-program
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post #3318 of 3326 Old 11-20-2012, 07:31 PM
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Was that the best offer you could get from them ?
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post #3319 of 3326 Old 11-21-2012, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
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Was that the best offer you could get from them ?

KDL55EX640 for $730.00 + local sales tax (this includes your lamp purchase credit)

If I had paid for repairs or had done this a few years ago, it would have been better. Still about $350 less than the cheapest online price.
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post #3320 of 3326 Old 11-25-2012, 04:58 PM
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Hi folks... Been nearly 3 years since my OB replacement and I have a question. I got the readout for the lamp hours but do not know if the result I got makes sense.

When the OB got replaced in Feb 2010, I also replaced the bulb with an OSRAM one that since has been working flawlessly. This set is still the most used of the two I have, and so I would think the bulb hours would be up there. So I checked in the service menu and got this reading:

LMPH 1BH LMPL 7DH

On an online converter, this converted down to: 27 for the first reading and 29 for the second.

Do i add these numbers which would make it 56 or tag the second after the first to read 2729?

Otherwise, picture still looks great and with all the use, no issues have manifested since the OB replacement. I'm just curious about the reading and when I should think about ordering either another bulb or bulb/housing assembly.

Thanks!
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post #3321 of 3326 Old 12-05-2012, 09:05 AM
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Here is my tv. 2006.
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post #3322 of 3326 Old 05-11-2013, 02:19 PM
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I just replaced the bulb in my 46e2000 and of course, I now have the red band along the top and blue band along the bottom.

I contacted Sony live chat and it was probably the biggest waste of my time so far this year. I am planning to call, but the office is closed until Monday. So now I have to waste cell phone minutes calling them for who knows how long. I assume that they are no longer offering repairs. I really don't care for modern LCD sets. I just want my old one fixed, but I am also not interested in paying $200 for the bulb along with $200-300 for a refurbished block.

Anyone get any discount offers recently? I'd be willing to tolerate getting some sort of new, non-3d, decent set of the same size if it is only a couple hundred dollars.
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post #3323 of 3326 Old 11-28-2013, 11:19 PM
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I just replaced my lamp and had the same problem. Plugged in the power, turned on the TV, the power light was green and then started blinking red three times. There is a little metal trigger like switch on the bottom right of the lamp receptacle. It is on the right side of the bulb power connections. Use something narrow such as a tooth pick. I use a piece of emery board. Shine a flash light in the receptacle and bend out that metal switch just a little bit. It took me several tries and some patience. It didn't fix the red and blue bar problem on the screen though. From what I've been reading that is an optical block problem.
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post #3324 of 3326 Old 11-29-2013, 12:06 PM
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So is a blown lamp causing the optical block problem or vice-versa or are folks replacing the lamp thinking it is the cause of the red band? I keep reading that the optical block issue shows its ugly head with a lamp replacement. I'd like to know because mine still has a great image, but I know the original lamp has gotta go sooner or later.
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post #3325 of 3326 Old 11-29-2013, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy C View Post

So is a blown lamp causing the optical block problem or vice-versa or are folks replacing the lamp thinking it is the cause of the red band? I keep reading that the optical block issue shows its ugly head with a lamp replacement. I'd like to know because mine still has a great image, but I know the original lamp has gotta go sooner or later.

No.

A new lamp typically according to Philips puts out twice as much light as a lamp at average end-of-life.

The LCD panels are like million-pixel shutters, and they degrade over time from the intense light and UV content especially in the blue path. They can barely hold back the light when needed in the old lamp, and when a new lamp is put in, their aging is suddenly much more apparent. If the LCD panel was marginal with the old lamp, it will also age more quickly with a new lamp.

So yes, "it shows its ugly head" moreso with a new lamp, but is not the cause.
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post #3326 of 3326 Old 06-30-2014, 05:38 PM
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Recently messed around with the HDTV calibration guide on my Xbox One and it made my 55E2000 look incredibly washed out. These were the recommended settings I came out of it with:

Advanced Iris: Auto 1
Picture: 88
Brightness: 54
Color: 65 (eyeballed it to personal preference since I don't have a blue filter)
Hue: 0 (didn't mess with it since, again, I don't have a blue filter)
Color Temp: Neutral
Sharpness: 50 (I really don't notice any difference between like 20 to 90, honestly. I must have bad eyes.)

Black Corrector, Gamma, Clear White, and Color Corrector all set to Off



It's been bugging me so much how faded these games look now. People on other forum sites have said they had a similar problem with this calibration guide doing this to games, but making movies look better. Others said it looked bad on TVs since it must have been made on a PC monitor.


All I really want is some insight on what calibration setup is best for video games on this TV. I know most calibration settings I find on the internet are tailored for movies and TV shows.



EDIT: I set my color back down to default 50 now.

I've also gone back to Cool and using Clear White on high. It's the only way I can make white look actually white. I used my Xbox One's internet browser and my laptop's browser to pull up the exact same page that had just a pure white image. My laptop's monitor is (I'm assuming) calibrated correctly (as it passes all the internet test pages I've done for it), so I used it as a baseline for my TV. In order to get these two pictures close together, I had to turn on Cool and turn Clear White to high. With my TV set to even Neutral color temperature, all the grays and whites looked "salmon". And it's not because I'm used to Cool, it's because they actually are reddish. I know what the color red looks like, lol.

Last edited by kermkerm; 07-01-2014 at 11:41 PM.
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