2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread - Page 293 - AVS Forum
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post #8761 of 9416 Old 12-09-2008, 04:18 PM
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Did the cleaning. Some hopefully helpful things.

Check the postion of the chassis assembly before undoing the two B bolts and the loosening the A adjustment bolt. Mine had the turned down edge at the light end even with the plastic return on the TV housing and the block on which the A bolts tighten was even with the metal edge of thee chassis base. Went back in like a champ.

Following the instructions from the service manual and the great guide provided by poodle head (with some helpful hints from ck007) I carefully disassembled the various items. The coating on the lenses was resistant to plain water, so I used what we use in the electronics industry a lot, isopropyl alcohol. Wetted the end of a Q tip and carefully scrubbed a lens. Then using dry Q tip ends dried it. The worst, that one interior lense needed three separate alcohol washes. When I was done all the glass was pristine.

Put it back together, slipped a pen into the blue safety switch to test it before putting the back on. It was aligned well. Put the back on and adjusted the settings. Perfect picture again. No need for a new light engine like the last time.

Thanks to all here.

Jerry the HT Nut
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post #8762 of 9416 Old 12-09-2008, 07:23 PM
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Jerry,
Did the service manual help a lot?And where did you get it?Reason I ask is that the pics (on here) weren't really clear.And the disassembly was not well enough explained for me to be confident.So,I'd be hesitant to do this unless I had better instructions(not really electronics oriented).Thanks for any help or further thoughts on this!Fred
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post #8763 of 9416 Old 12-09-2008, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HT Nut View Post

Did the cleaning. Some hopefully helpful things.

Check the postion of the chassis assembly before undoing the two B bolts and the loosening the A adjustment bolt. Mine had the turned down edge at the light end even with the plastic return on the TV housing and the block on which the A bolts tighten was even with the metal edge of thee chassis base. Went back in like a champ.

Following the instructions from the service manual and the great guide provided by poodle head (with some helpful hints from ck007) I carefully disassembled the various items. The coating on the lenses was resistant to plain water, so I used what we use in the electronics industry a lot, isopropyl alcohol. Wetted the end of a Q tip and carefully scrubbed a lens. Then using dry Q tip ends dried it. The worst, that one interior lense needed three separate alcohol washes. When I was done all the glass was pristine.

Put it back together, slipped a pen into the blue safety switch to test it before putting the back on. It was aligned well. Put the back on and adjusted the settings. Perfect picture again. No need for a new light engine like the last time.

Thanks to all here.


Glad to see all went well.
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post #8764 of 9416 Old 12-10-2008, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aVOLanche View Post

Jerry,
Did the service manual help a lot?And where did you get it?Reason I ask is that the pics (on here) weren't really clear.And the disassembly was not well enough explained for me to be confident.So,I'd be hesitant to do this unless I had better instructions(not really electronics oriented).Thanks for any help or further thoughts on this!Fred

The service manual is good for the removal of the chassis which has the lenses mounted. I got it on the link posted by poodlehead, and excerpts from it from a generous member here.

The service manual assumes a level of skill with the removal. For example, there was nothing in the service manual about disconnecting five cables. Easy enough to do, but you have to know that it is to be done. Because Mitsu has no idea about the cleaning procedure. There is no info on breaking down the chassis etc.

The cleaning pictures posted here are not sharp. However if you follow them you will get what you need done.

Some hints from what I did. Taking off the lens assembly is straightforward, if you free the cables from under the fiberglass tape first. Three philips head screws and it is out. Taking off the angled cover is straightforward, three philips head screws, and again take the tape off first.

Then third step of taking out the tube is straightforward. Three small philips head screws. I marked the position of one of the screws on both the flange and the housing before I disassembled. Just in case there was an alignment issue. The flange fits tightly, and since both parts are hard anodized, it seems to stick. Be sure to remove it without tipping. Same goes for the reassembly. There is no index so you must be sure the screw hole in the flange is lined up with the threaded hole in the body.

Nothing is extremely complicated about the cleaning. I made sure to take my time and think ahead. It took me about two hours end to end to do the cleaning. Mostly because I was being very careful not to muck up anything.

Were I to do it again, it would probably take an hour from removing the first screw on the back of the TV to putting that last screw back in place.

Jerry the HT Nut
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post #8765 of 9416 Old 12-10-2008, 11:42 AM
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Thanks,Jerry
I printed the pictures from the pdf and now it makes sense.Would you proceed without the service manual?I clean camera lenses all the time(and sensors inside the camera bodies)so that would be easy.

I'm about at my wits end with GE(HHGregg's General Electric-extended warranty)-been 3 months waiting for a LE to arrive from Mits..........GE Assurant Solutions sux!!!).They tell me that the contract specifies no timetable for repairs(which I doubt is legal).Arrrrggg.

So I may just try the cleaning.

Thanks,Fred
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post #8766 of 9416 Old 12-10-2008, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
The cleaning pictures posted here are not sharp.

Looked as the camera had a 'dirty' lens.

I would strongly suggest having a much cleaner work station that what was used in those photos.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #8767 of 9416 Old 12-13-2008, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Looked as the camera had a 'dirty' lens.

I would strongly suggest having a much cleaner work station that what was used in those photos.

Pictures were taken with my 7-year old pda camera which is light and focus challenged. This was not done as a DIY guide but an info submission to Mit's who would already be familiar with the item in question. I released this info because a out of warranty light engine is $$$$ and Mit's has no other official solution. And at least once a month I do tidy up my work bench Anyone who would like to make better pix and tutorial guide is free to do so now that you at least know what to problem is.

i-need-a-beak.com
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post #8768 of 9416 Old 12-15-2008, 03:04 PM
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I just ordered our first "free" replacement lamp for our 57831 under our 4-year extended service plan - one more free lamp replacement during the next 26-months under the extended service plan. After 22-months of ownership, we had 2 warranty repairs, and 1 warranty replacement lamp. Overall, I am extremely happy we decided to purchase the premium extended service plan on this set. Although we're not unhappy with this set, the ownership experience has been less than expected. We loved our 5-year old Mits Diamond CRT-RPTV (a perfect ownership experience)...wish I didn't have to give it away when we moved earlier this year.
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post #8769 of 9416 Old 12-17-2008, 01:37 AM
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I have a quick and hopefully easy question for y'all:

I'm going on my 2nd year as a very happy 831 owner (although on our 2nd lamp, but I digress) and we are finally finishing out our first HT system. We will have our Onkyo 876 here this Friday and it got me to thinking...With the Onkyo being HDMI 1.3 and the Mits not being 1.3, should I be concerned about any potential lip0sync issues or the like?

In other words, is there anything I/we are missing w/ the TV not being 1.3 (but the rest of the HT is *PS3, AVR, etc*). TIA.
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post #8770 of 9416 Old 12-17-2008, 06:34 AM
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I have a 731 hooked up to a PS3 and Onkyo 805, you have nothing to worry about.

Gamertag: Ikazu
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post #8771 of 9416 Old 12-18-2008, 09:01 AM
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Anyone know of a good/reliable source for a replacement lamp for a 65831? I'm getting the runaround from my extended warranty (NSI) and need to pick up a lamp on my own in order to ensure we have something to hook the Wii up to on Christmas Day.

There's a listing on fleebay from River Valley Electronics which has a very high Seller rating. Has anyone done business with them???

I assume this is the correct part number: 915P049020
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post #8772 of 9416 Old 12-18-2008, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I8azuk View Post

Anyone know of a good/reliable source for a replacement lamp for a 65831? I'm getting the runaround from my extended warranty (NSI) and need to pick up a lamp on my own in order to ensure we have something to hook the Wii up to on Christmas Day.

There's a listing on fleebay from River Valley Electronics which has a very high Seller rating. Has anyone done business with them???

I assume this is the correct part number: 915P049020

That is the correct number. I just purchased one from Pureland Supply http://www.purelandsupply.com/Genera...rch=915P049020 and had it the next day (with overnight charges).
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post #8773 of 9416 Old 12-18-2008, 10:14 AM
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$184 is a very high price for just the lamp. I have seen the whole assembly for less.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8774 of 9416 Old 12-18-2008, 10:17 AM
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Anyone using TVGOS with these sets?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8775 of 9416 Old 12-18-2008, 02:55 PM
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I went ahead and ordered the lamp from RiverValley off of eBay. $118 with a 6 month warranty and then another $30 for UPS 2nd day Air and insurance.
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post #8776 of 9416 Old 12-21-2008, 11:30 AM
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I completed the lens cleaning as suggested by PoodleHead and can confirm that this IS the issue that surrounds the halo problem. The color depth and picture clarity/quality are back and that annoying white wash look that we all second guess is gone. If you have read the last couple of pages in this thread, you already knew that. I am on my second light engine and do have the extended but am not convinced that anything has been done to correct the problem with the engines. My theory is that if our issue is related to a new part burn in, there should be a time when the burn in is complete, we can fix the issue and be done with it. I'll report back in 3-6 months and let you know. If the fix does not stick, I promise you all that I will be beating on my extended until they replace my TV.

The reason I am posting is to let any of you wannabe TV repair people know that: This is not a terribly difficult undertaking!! I spent two weeks freaking out prior to diving in and had an anxiety attack once I saw the guts of my set spread out before me. Today, I'm laughing about it.

The entire assembly in question is attached to a steel tray (think TV tray) that slides out of two molded groves. After removing two screws, loosening two more and disconnecting the leads it simply slides out. The service manual gives no help on what leads need to be disconnected. Use some common sense and you'll figure it out. All of the leads are different in size or connection type so figuring out what went where on re-assembly is not an issue. Honestly, the most difficult thing for me was remembering how many leads I had disconnected. I almost booted up with one disconnected (not sure how bad that would have been) but caught it on the fifth re-inspection of my work. I would suggest marking them with a piece of tape and you should be fine.

The PDF that PoodleHead provides is more than adequate for disassembling the light block. I would add two things, the screws attaching the lens itself where fixed with a very hard epoxy as a lock tight. When I broke the seal on them it sounded like glass cracking!! Scared the Crap out of me!! The second is the fact that the dust cover that PoodleHead mentions is cloth tape sealed. I would strongly suggest that you keep the tape in good shape so you can replace it on re-assembly. Recalibrating the screen was not needed in my case. Once I entered the service menu and hit FF it all looked square. I simply tightened everything up and that was that.

The lens haze in question was very light in my case. So light that I was certain that it would not make a big difference, I was wrong. It was also not very easy to remove. The vast majority of the time I spent on this project was dedicated to the cleaning of the lens. I would also state that IMO it is not dust. It seams to be a vapor burn off and definitely a manufacture defect.

All in all, I wouldn't say that it was difficult to do and I'm very happy I did it. Good luck to all that try and thanks to everyone here for the information.

Chris
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post #8777 of 9416 Old 12-21-2008, 02:12 PM
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Chris,
A couple of questions on your disassembly:

You said: "The entire assembly in question is attached to a steel tray (think TV tray) that slides out of two molded groves. After removing two screws, loosening two more and disconnecting the leads it simply slides out".The 2 screws to be loosened are the "A" bolts aka the "adjust" screws....correct?My directions say to loosen only one to maintain the alignment.Is this feasable so as to maintain alignment?

Secondly you said: "I would add two things, the screws attaching the lens itself were fixed with a very hard epoxy as a lock-tight. When I broke the seal on them it sounded like glass cracking!! Scared the Crap out of me!!".........are you referring to the last piece you remove to access and clean the lens?

Thanks for the help! Fred
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post #8778 of 9416 Old 12-21-2008, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aVOLanche View Post

Chris,
A couple of questions on your disassembly:

The 2 screws to be loosened are the "A" bolts aka the "adjust" screws....correct?My directions say to loosen only one to maintain the alignment.Is this feasable so as to maintain alignment?

Secondly you said: "I would add two things, the screws attaching the lens itself were fixed with a very hard epoxy as a lock-tight. When I broke the seal on them it sounded like glass cracking!! Scared the Crap out of me!!".........are you referring to the last piece you remove to access and clean the lens?

Thanks for the help! Fred

Yes to both of your questions and I had to loosen both of the adjustment screws to get mine out. Even with both loosened the alignment was almost automatic. With the groves it really seemed to align itself. Just be carful, take your time and pay attention. You will be shocked by how much better it looks.
Good Luck,
Chris
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post #8779 of 9416 Old 12-21-2008, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Anyone using TVGOS with these sets?

Yes, on a 57831 with cablecard. Was wondering the same thing myself - Anyone else?
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post #8780 of 9416 Old 12-22-2008, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Freshmeat36 View Post

Yes to both of your questions and I had to loosen both of the adjustment screws to get mine out. Even with both loosened the alignment was almost automatic. With the groves it really seemed to align itself. Just be carful, take your time and pay attention. You will be shocked by how much better it looks.
Good Luck,
Chris

Thanks,Chris.....and to all the others who have explained this procedure.Too bad MITSUBISHI and the technicians can't be doing this!Typical.
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post #8781 of 9416 Old 12-22-2008, 07:57 AM
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bwall23; Now we are up to two. Amazing how many have this set and don't use TVGOS.

This probably won't apply, but is your host channel analog or digital?
Have you tried it w/o the CC?
Have you tried it with OTA only?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8782 of 9416 Old 12-22-2008, 08:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

bwall23; Now we are up to two. Amazing how many have this set and don't use TVGOS.

This probably won't apply, but is your host channel analog or digital?
Have you tried it w/o the CC?
Have you tried it with OTA only?

Make that three...I have been an OTA fanatic for years and use TVGOS regularly with my Sony HD DVR. I also setup TVGOS (OTA) on my 831 but, to be honest, I stopped using OTA once I got FiOS. The FiOS TV picture is as good as OTA so I went months without checking TVGOS. Anyway, I slapped in a CC the other day (left over from trying TiVo HD back in August) and called Verizon to pair the device, but I haven't had time to check TVGOS. I should finally get some downtime later this week.
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post #8783 of 9416 Old 12-22-2008, 09:08 AM
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Golly, we are on a roll.
BTW, I have the 250 also. Mits stuck their hand into the TVGOS setup and eliminated the 1st two welcome/setup screens. This makes it worse for me since I want to use a Canadian 'Postal Code' and I found out Mits isn't sold in Canada (lucky for them I guess), so there is only a 'Zip Code' entry.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8784 of 9416 Old 12-23-2008, 05:14 AM
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According to Macrovision support (yes, I have actually receved replys from their web site).
Responses from two different CSR's;
Quote:


There are several flavors for the V8 guide, this is dependant on the manufactures and the hardware they use, we only license out the firmware to run on there hardware. And yes the glitches you have experienced are largely do to the preparation for the switch in Feb.

Quote:


If the manufacturer chooses to upgrade the TV Guide firmware they are allowed to, but it takes some work on their part. The device would have to already contain a digital tuner.
Regarding the Mitsu TV, yes we are sure it cannot handle the digital signal.

The last part of the 1st response is regarding loosing partial data on various days.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8785 of 9416 Old 12-23-2008, 03:55 PM
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Had a email contact with Mits. Don't think they are being straight with me about this TVGOS issue...see below.

Thank you for contacting Mitsubishi Digital Electronics America, Inc. We are pleased to be able to assist our customers via our website. Here is the information that you have requested:



Looking up our records that model number WD-Y65 should have guide version 08.01.71. This version is capable of using digital host stations. You can confirm the version number on the first page of diagnostics.



Regards



MDEA




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From:
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 5:25 AM
To: MDEA Service
Subject: attn:CR Workgroup..
Importance: High



Hello. I spent just about an hour on the phone last night with an agent in Irvine, Linda, who, although very nice and new, did not have an answer for many of my questions. I have a Mits WD-Y65 television, and am concerned that the TV Guide On Screen feature will no longer work after the digital transition. On page 3 of the attached pdf, it states that "Mitsubishi models V26-V34 are unable to receive the TVGOS data via digital transmission." Currently, my television reception is with an antenna. I have a V33Y chassis. SN#109882. Will there be a fix for this coming from Mitsubishi via a software or hardware upgrade? Thanks.
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post #8786 of 9416 Old 12-23-2008, 10:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

bwall23; Now we are up to two. Amazing how many have this set and don't use TVGOS.

This probably won't apply, but is your host channel analog or digital?
Have you tried it w/o the CC?
Have you tried it with OTA only?

Host channel is analog. Comcast Digital Cable, but channel in the 90's is analog PBS broadcasting guide info.

Using CC with Comcast and haven't tried it without the CC or using my OTA antenna.
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post #8787 of 9416 Old 12-23-2008, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwall23 View Post

Host channel is analog. Comcast Digital Cable, but channel in the 90's is analog PBS broadcasting guide info.

Using CC with Comcast and haven't tried it without the CC or using my OTA antenna.

I'm pretty sure our sets will be able to utilize digital TVGOS (ATSC Slicing) being broadcat by CBS based on the TVGOS base firmware version and the fact we can enable ATSC Slicing. I have been following these two threads, but haven't yet tried to force my set to use a digital channel for TVGOS.
I also gathered a large list of TVGOS codes:
Code:
111 111 111     Test
111 222 333     Clear Reset Info
114 119 196     Alpha Enabled
123 123 123     All Channels On
123 789 255     Set PM Flag 255
129 547 358     Phone Modem Test Number
147 258 369     Force Slicing
147 412 356     Warm Reset
147 852 369     Phone Home
152 368 459     Toggle Time of Feed
179 324 865     Enable ATSC
193 758 246     Service Information
194 219 421     Start G-LINK
214 532 568     Fake Cable Card Insertion
222 333 111     G-LINK Diag Dump
236 874 159     Clickstream Support OFF
237 837 837     BER Test
325 621 458     Fake Cable Card Removal
352 742 666     Commit Flash Memory
352 747 283     Save To Flash Memory
352 747 373     Reset Flash Memory
352 747 378     Restore From Flash Memory
392 378 466     Generate exception
444 555 333     File System White Box Test
444 555 555     Enter Parameter
444 555 666     Accepting Test Patches
444 555 777     File System White Box Recovery
458 798 565     Toggle Phone Modem Com Port
464 821 864     Phone Modem Beta Number
472 749 564     Toggle Graphics Log
474 747 474     Dial '1234' in each mode
515 359 575     Commit All Data
533 733 663     Keep Demo Data
545 572 824     Delete Patch File
562 333 663     Load Demo Data
589 632 147     Glink Modem Support ON
653 214 741     Cold Reset
653 274 147     System Reset
658 545 256     Do Next Phone Home
663 366 746     Demo Pin %s
666 377 243     NFP Message
666 555 444     Declining Test Patches
736 683 837     Enable IR Tests
741 236 547     Purge Pgmmgr
741 236 985     Glink Modem Support OFF
745 632 198     Sys Heap Space Use Analysis
746 978 287     Show Stats
752 954 783     Dump Playlist
753 159 852     Diagnostics
777 888 999     Subscriptions Enabled
789 789 789     Clear since-cold gclock diags
797 654 141     ID Number Regenerated
824 824 812     VBI Search 12
842 656 248     Toggle Phone Modem Prefix
872 253 867     Ad Track Dump
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874 563 219     Sys Heap Block Use Analysis
882 666 564     Toggle TVComm Log
951 478 632     Clickstream Support ON
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963 852 741     File System Shell
971 397 135     Enter Factory Test Screen
987 321 255     Clr PM Flag 255
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post #8788 of 9416 Old 12-24-2008, 06:51 AM
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here is the last reply I received from Macrovision:
Quote:
Response (Mike Greene) 12/23/2008 04:52 PM
The guide version that your TV is running is not capable of picking up the digital TV Guide On Screen data. Whether the damage can be undone, I would have to refer you to Mitsubishi for that answer. I can not speak for Mitsubishi in the design process of their TV's and their ability to function in the future.


Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #8789 of 9416 Old 12-24-2008, 07:40 AM
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See attached regarding the functionality of different TVGOS software...

 

Version_Differences.zip 5.0830078125k . file
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post #8790 of 9416 Old 12-24-2008, 07:41 AM
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I havn't had time to read every post for mitsubishi tv's on this forum but I have run into some problems with my Panasonic 35 bluray player. I have it hooked up via hdmi to the tv but it is dropping out the video during movies. Sometimes it runs fine and others it is very frustrating. What I want to know is any one else experiencing issues similar to this on their Mitsu tv's.
Thanks
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