Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 203 - AVS Forum
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post #6061 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 11:47 AM
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Not sure if this is the right plsce to ask this.
In 03 Craig M. cal. my ws-55819 and at that time we left the contrast control adjustment to the far right instead of center in case the kids got to it. Now I need a little more contast. How do I center the adjustment slider to the center. I know I need to count the numbers of clicks back to center and add them the the value of ???? in the service menu. Is it CONT ? And do I need to do it in both NTSC and HD or is globe?
Thanks
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post #6062 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

Yes, this is what I meant. Sorry for being confusing.

I'm just not sure if the cost of the HDfury2 is justified. I guess trying it would be the only way of knowing but right now my 510 seems to do a pretty darn good job at upconverting 480p to 1080i. It really comes down to how good the transfer is. With some movies like "Live Free or Die Hard" and others that are even slightly better, the PQ is so good that it makes me think that getting any better would require a Blu-ray title of the movie.

I guess someone using the HDfury2 would have to provide input on the results. It really may not be valid input either since each RPTV probably does a different job at upconverting. All I know is the Elite series is very good.

Robert

Your 510 does an excellent job of upconverting 480i to 480p. It does NOT upconvert 480i/p to 1080i. At all. Not by itself. That's what you need the Fury for.

The 530 yes, the 510/520 no.

As per your other question, my answers stand, from before. No changes in response to what they said.


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post #6063 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gusfd View Post

Not sure if this is the right plsce to ask this.
In 03 Craig M. cal. my ws-55819 and at that time we left the contrast control adjustment to the far right instead of center in case the kids got to it. Now I need a little more contast. How do I center the adjustment slider to the center. I know I need to count the numbers of clicks back to center and add them the the value of ???? in the service menu. Is it CONT ? And do I need to do it in both NTSC and HD or is globe?
Thanks

It would be CONT in the xx57 sm, Vid Chr section. Which would probably be global, with SCON probably being local.

You'd need to try them out to see. But you'll probably be OK with doubling the number in your CONT register. It was usually in the high thirties OOB, as I recall, tho I would need to see one of your model untouched to know for sure.

If you had kept your original sm reg numbers you could refer to that, for this info.


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post #6064 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 12:02 PM
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Okay, this is getting really freakin irritating at this point. I've search the web for quite a while for a top quality 1080i component switcher (1080p preferred but not mandatory). It seems they are quite expensive probably due to HDMI switchers being a very popular item right now thus driving the price down. I could get the HDfury2 and a good $50 HDMI switcher ($100 one from OPPO) for about the same as a good component switcher.

Good grief, I wish this was easier. Any recommendations out there for a very good 1080i component switcher that won't negatively affect PQ???
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post #6065 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 12:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Try www.monoprice.com. They have a very reasonably priced remote controlled switcher. Haven't tried it but even a cheap mechanical Radio Shack triple RCA switcher - 4 in 1 out - is totally shielded and works fine.

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post #6066 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Try www.monoprice.com. They have a very reasonably priced remote controlled switcher. Haven't tried it but even a cheap mechanical Radio Shack triple RCA switcher - 4 in 1 out - is totally shielded and works fine.

b


I actually reviewed the one on monoprice.com but didn't like what the reviewers at the bottom were saying. Many reported not true HD coming out of the box along with a lot of noise issues. It made me wonder for the price since there were more than a couple folks saying the same negatives. I guess Radio Shack is an option but was hoping more would be available on the internet through Amazon.com etc. I am shocked at seeing the high prices on something old like a component switcher from many sources as compared to HDMI switches. I guess I'll stop by my local Radio Shack store and return it if PQ is different as compared to no switch at all.

Well, only HD component box by Radio Shack online is $150. That's not an option.
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post #6067 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 01:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I have the RS one in my sys right now, have had it in there for years. I have the other one too, but have never taken the time to put it in.

Noise would definitely be an issue. Good grounding and signal iso are paramount.


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post #6068 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

Okay, this is getting really freakin irritating at this point. I've search the web for quite a while for a top quality 1080i component switcher (1080p preferred but not mandatory). It seems they are quite expensive probably due to HDMI switchers being a very popular item right now thus driving the price down. I could get the HDfury2 and a good $50 HDMI switcher ($100 one from OPPO) for about the same as a good component switcher.

Good grief, I wish this was easier. Any recommendations out there for a very good 1080i component switcher that won't negatively affect PQ???

I've had great results with a device such as this one for a component switcher with no degradation of video quality at all, it ain't fancy but gets the job done:


http://www.meritline.com/4-way-s-vid...--p-34928.aspx

I use it to run a blu-ray, hd-dvd, and stb tuner into one component input on my hitachi, The only pain is getting up to move the selector switch when changing between devices.

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post #6069 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelo M View Post

I've had great results with a device such as this one for a component switcher with no degradation of video quality at all, it ain't fancy but gets the job done:


http://www.meritline.com/4-way-s-vid...--p-34928.aspx

I use it to run a blu-ray, hd-dvd, and stb tuner into one component input on my hitachi, The only pain is getting up to move the selector switch when changing between devices.


You must have put down the wrong link because this is what came up for the one you listed:

4 Way S-Video Audio Video AV RCA Switch Switcher Splitter + AV Cable

I'll search the site for a component switcher so thanks for the feedback. It is good to know that all your HD signal don't degrade whatsoever.

Robert
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post #6070 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 05:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

Mr. Bob,

Any thoughts on what OPPO recommended? It seems to back what you were recommending earlier in the thread based on your experience.

Robert

There's a new BDP-83SE that's only $899. Probably pretty good.

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #6071 of 12493 Old 11-09-2009, 05:52 PM
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Well after getting home from work and thinking more about my situation, I decided to send a detailed e-mail to CurtPalme.com to get their hopefully honest feedback especially since many CRT RPTV owners use their devices. I'll see what they say. Their customer service as been outstanding just like OPPO so only fair to give them a chance to explain OPPO's thoughts with me probably not seeing much difference between component and HDMI with the HDfury2. CurtPalme.com answers fast so I'm sure by tomorrow I'll get some feedback.

I want to consider all sides before making a decision. I don't know, the more I think about it, having a new top of the line flat panel with many inputs sure would make life easier even though not the kind of money I'm looking spend since I would still need a BDP.

I'll let everyone know what feedback is provided by CurtPalme. I'm just surprised that no other CRT RPTV owners on this thread can provide input since I'm sure someone has tried the HDfury2 with it actually working as advertised.

Robert
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post #6072 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 07:18 AM
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My Sony RPTV has the dreaded 9 blinking lights! I need a G-Board I guess. Anyone have any idea where I can find one these days? Or am I SOL

Panny TC-P65VT60 (calibrated by Chad B), Denon AVR-4311, Comcast X1 DVR, Apple TV 3, Sony BDP-S5100,  Ascend Acoustics Sierra Towers (mains), Horizon (CC) and HTM-200's (Surr), Dual PSA XV15 Subwoofers!!
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post #6073 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 07:57 AM - Thread Starter
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The usual shutdown problem with Sony CRT RPTVs is the convergence ICs going out, and taking fuses with them. I have never seen them need new resistors, tho that has happened on other brands.

If you're handy with a soldering iron, you might want to try replacing them just on GP before surrendering hundreds of $ for a new board.


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post #6074 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 08:44 AM - Thread Starter
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Except for simple passive mechanical switching, component fed straight to display from Dish VIP 622 DVR.

No HDMI or HD Fury is involved in these pix, nor any scaler of any kind. Nothing is being used to alter these pix. What you see is what you get. They are completely component to component, device to display, unimpeded and unchanged.

These are photographs personally taken by me and uploaded via www.imageshack.us, they are not screengrabs of any kind.



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post #6075 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 10:33 AM
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Mr. BOB
I love my Mits 55809 ISF cal. Today it just shut of after about 30 sec. I get no picture at all. Every time I try to turn it on the on light comes on for a sec and shuts off.
Please help.
Steve

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post #6076 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 11:35 AM - Thread Starter
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WAY too little info for a diagnosis.

The most common problem is usually that the conv ICs go out and need to be replaced. When they short they take a critical fuse with them that is essential to the set's turning on. As such it goes into protection and shuts down.

Or a dozen other possibilities, including the possibility that coolant has leaked out of your CRT(s) and onto your circuit boards.

But that's the most common one. You may need a repair person in on this one.


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post #6077 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertrobert View Post

You must have put down the wrong link because this is what came up for the one you listed:

4 Way S-Video Audio Video AV RCA Switch Switcher Splitter + AV Cable

I'll search the site for a component switcher so thanks for the feedback. It is good to know that all your HD signal don't degrade whatsoever.

Robert

OUCH!! You hurt my feelings dude, THIS is what I use for a COMPONENT VIDEO SWITCHER, cant help it if I'm on a budget and it works perfectly for me....

Maybe these are more of what you want:

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/10cosw.html


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post #6078 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelo M View Post

OUCH!! You hurt my feelings dude, THIS is what I use for a COMPONENT VIDEO SWITCHER, cant help it if I'm on a budget and it works perfectly for me....

Maybe these are more of what you want:

http://www.hdtvsupply.com/10cosw.html



It's all good, didn't mean to hurt anyone's feeling since I can definitely understand the budget.

I did find a couple on Amazon that didn't first come up after many attempts at searching. They have two with pretty good ratings for around $45.
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post #6079 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 03:06 PM
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Here is the reply I got back from Jeremy from CurtPalme.com. They excell in customer service so only fair to get their feedback after the technical person from OPPO provided their initial thoughs even though it was their best guess.

It is kind of long but good info:


______________________________________________________

Hi Robert,
I'm wondering how much CRT experience that Oppo tech has had? Here at curtpalme.com we specialize in CRT. We love it and not just the front projector's either. Many of us, myself included own RPTV CRT's. I can't speak for the Oppo 83 player as I don't have one but what I can speak to is the video processing and component vs HDMI.


Most of the manufacture's aren't putting much into the component outputs because HDMI is the next whiz bang thing. Let me use the PS3 as an example:
Both Kal and I have seen the difference between the component connection on the PS3 and the HDMI output. It's not a subtle difference at all. I can see this on my 42" TV, I can see this on my 10 foot wide screen from my Ampro 4000 projector and I can see it on my 17" CRT monitor.


So you are right. Why wouldn't you use the HDMI output from the Oppo 83's Anchor bay chip? It's great quality video processing. There's also one other added benefit. DVD upscaling.


By law, DVD's can't be displayed at more than 480p over component. It's silly but that's the limitation set by the Motion Picture Association of America. Now over HDMI upscaling is allowed. Again I haven't had any hands on with the Oppo 83 but I'd wager a guess that the Anchor bay chip will do a quality job on the DVD upcaling to 1080i too.


As to the Oppo tech putting down analog. Why? A great quality video signal is a great quality video signal whether it's analog or digital. In this case it will be both with the Oppo 83 and the HDFury2. Great quality digital in and high quality analog out. The included component cable is only 7 inches long and with that connected to the back of your TV you will have a great picture. You could even use the HDFury2 to drive longer cables if you need to. It has an analog cable driver stage built in. I've run it 25 feet with great results and through the built in monitor cables ( 6 -10 ft ) on my 17" CRT monitors I use for testing.


We have been doing High Definition over analog since the last century, technically since the last Millennium. You own one of the best analog 1080i HD TV's ever made.


The Oppo 83 has been getting great reviews. Even one of our own guy says he loves his. Walter ( WTS on the forum)


Here's what Walter had to say:
WTS wrote:
Well I got my Oppo BR last night and had a chance to watch a few clips from various BR discs comparing them to the PS3. Overall I would say the Oppo is a step or 2 above the PS3. The PS3 just seemed on the soft side and the colours seemed muted compared to the Oppo. Also the Oppo seemed to have more depth to it. That's not to say that the PS3 is bad but it just seemed when going from the Oppo to the PS3 it was like hmmm where did the punch go and then going back to the Oppo was like --Ahhh that's better. I never tryed DVD but I will do that another day.
Of course not a great in depth review but my overall take on the Oppo is I'll be keeping it and selling my PS3 but it does give the PQ that extra kick in the right direction. All the oppo settings were at neutral and I used the 1080p/60 YCpCr444 deep colour settings for the output, as well the PS3 was set for 1080p/60.

You can see the whole thread here:
http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewt...=asc&&start=20


I've been using the PS3 as a bluray player for about a year, many of our guys longer than that and the PS3 was considered top's in picture quality ( when using the HDMI output )
Now the Oppo's toped that still. It's a great choice in Bluray players.


The Oppo tech again, seemed to not know the quality of your TV set. Why would you downgrade to a flat panel TV when you can add an HDFury2 to your Pioneer ELITE and have a better picture? You'll have inky blacks, stunning colors, no pixels to annoy your and the most film like experience from a direct view TV all with out the sticky floors and stale pop corn.


To answer your question as to whether or not anyone has tried a BDP/HDFury2 and RPTV. Many people have. Myself included. I have a 2003 RCA 42" CRT RPTV. I also have a Sony BDP-S550 bluray hooked up to that one via the HDFury2. In my set up I've also added a Box1020 so I can get the gamma boost. The Gamma made such a huge difference it was incredible.


So the "uber" upgrade for the older RPTV set's is a bluray player, an HDFury2 and a Box1020 for the gamma boost. You could always get the Box1020 later. The HDFury2 alone will still give you a stunning picture.


I also did the A/B switching comparing the PS3's component output vs. the HDMI. It's a night and day difference. It's hard to explain but imagine watching your movies through a wrong side of tinted glass. Kind of like wearing sunglasses that dull the colors. When I went HDMI--to--HDFury2--to--TV it was like taking off the sunglasses and opening the tinted window. A great, great difference..


Ultimately it's up to you but I made the HDFury2/Box1020 choice and I don't regret it.


Regards,
Jeremy


_____________________________________________________


CurtPalme.com's site actually has owners of the HDfury2 say they observed better results on their CRT RPTVs by using it via HDMI as compared to direct signal using component.

So now I'm thinking this would be at least worth trying with a 30 day no questions ask return policy. I can use my HD DVD player to test.

Robert
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post #6080 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Great input! Thanks for sharing that with us.

Tho I didn't see anybody - Jeremy included - commenting on the fact that the component out of the PS3 - of all Sony BDPs that I've tried it on - deprives the viewer of the blacker than black info, while the HDMI does not. This might be that subtle difference he could not pin down - that lack of depth this causes, compared to the much vaster depth that's there in your shadow details with btb.

On my set I have compared the component image structure to the HDMI/Fury II image structure on 1080i material - both from Bluray and from my Dish MPEG4 DVR - and there were absolutely no differences at all. The Fury leaves the signal completely intact, does not degrade it in the least. That's thru a Panny BD 30 player. Very impressive, in my book.

You might want to write back and point that out to Jeremy. Tell him I sentcha, about it, and to say Hi to Kal, who assisted me with installing that gorgeous eye picture on the cover of my website. And putting up the link there, for the Fury II.

Btb is super easy to test for, using the HD DVE Pluge pattern. The outermost of the 3 stripes per side, simple as that. If your player does btb it's there. If it does not do btb, it's not.


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post #6081 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 05:00 PM
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I had the conv IC chips go about two years ago. I thought it might be something else. Could conv IC's go bad that fast?
Thanks Mr. Bob

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post #6082 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 05:30 PM - Thread Starter
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It's been known to happen. If the conv paradigm was initially set up with points fighting each other instead of flowing in concert with each other, that would draw extra energy and cause the ICs to run hotter. If the repair tech on the case - or owner on the case - did not use adequate amounts of heat sink compound to bond the ICs and the heat sink thermally, to adequately dissipate the heat generated by the very hard working ICs, that could also cause them to run hot for extended periods or just overheat in general.

If it does turn out that your ICs have croaked a second time, your paradigm needs to be checked for its effortlessness. If instead it is running very effortFUL, with lots of the registers fighting each other, it needs to be redone, usually on both the geometry and convergence.

Only then should it be supertightened for the exquisite viewing CRT is capable of, on HD.


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post #6083 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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post #6084 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 06:35 PM - Thread Starter
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post #6085 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 06:40 PM
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wow, those are some awesome pictures, what are those off from?
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post #6086 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 07:11 PM - Thread Starter
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They are all from a recent Grey's Anatomy, all at one spot on the DVR recording of it. Most are from the one commercial, and a couple of course from a Wicked promo. The ABC logo just keeps getting better...

You're not far away. You should hop your steed and come over and see for yourself!



b

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post #6087 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 07:19 PM
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I really should come by and take a peek!

Can my Elite PRO 700 really can do 1080p?
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post #6088 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 08:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WilsonL View Post

I really should come by and take a peek!

Can my Elite PRO 700 really can do 1080p?

No, 1080i max, but that's OK because with good electronics there's very little difference between i and p. That's no problem because in CRT tech we don't need p to get an absolutely amazing picture. 1080i does that all by itself, and effortlessly.

And you need to know the 700 is insanely hard to converge, but I have accomplished it on more than one occasion. Just getting the optics cleaned on it will improve its performance many times! Head and shoulder improvement.

Contact me directly, come over and take a look, and I'll show you what you've been missing!



b

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post #6089 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Great input! Thanks for sharing that with us.

Tho I didn't see anybody - Jeremy included - commenting on the fact that the component out of the PS3 - of all Sony BDPs that I've tried it on - deprives the viewer of the blacker than black info, while the HDMI does not. This might be that subtle difference he could not pin down - that lack of depth this causes, compared to the much vaster depth that's there in your shadow details with btb.

On my set I have compared the component image structure to the HDMI/Fury II image structure on 1080i material - both from Bluray and from my Dish MPEG4 DVR - and there were absolutely no differences at all. The Fury leaves the signal completely intact, does not degrade it in the least. That's thru a Panny BD 30 player. Very impressive, in my book.

You might want to write back and point that out to Jeremy. Tell him I sentcha, about it, and to say Hi to Kal, who assisted me with installing that gorgeous eye picture on the cover of my website. And putting up the link there, for the Fury II.

Btb is super easy to test for, using the HD DVE Pluge pattern. The outermost of the 3 stripes per side, simple as that. If your player does btb it's there. If it does not do btb, it's not.


b


Bob,

I find it kind of funny that after a lot of posts about the HDfury2 that now you finally come out and say that you compared the component output of your BDP with the HDfury2 using HDMI with no difference between the two. Dozens of posts ago you simply said from your experience, you didn't think I would see a difference when I asked specifically about the HDfury2. Why wouldn't you have just told me at that point that you actually used it with the results just stated?

Maybe the component output of your Panasonic BDP is the same as the HDMI output thus no difference when using the HDfury2. With the OPPO already being proven to be much better with a HDMI feed as compared to component, why wouldn't the HDfury2 allow a better picture using the HDfury2 and HDMI??? This was Jeremy's point. It sounds like you might be in agreement with the technical person I spoke with from OPPO where he thought I wouldn't really see a difference only because I was using an older CRT RPTV and not from any direct proof. If you agree with him than specifically why??? If the Elite 510 is good enough to show difference than why wouldn't the HDMI through the HDfury2 be better than direct component? The OPPO 83's Anchor Bay chip is not involved when component is used while is used via HDMI. I wish this wasn't the case but it is. OPPO is releasing a cheaper version soon without the Anchor Bay chip so I guess the component output on it or any BDP would be just as good as HDMI with the HDfury2. If so, I guess this isn't saying too much for older CRT RPTVs. Don't get me wrong, I love my 510's PQ but if it or any CRT RPTV can't show the differences than what does that mean. I guess a more film like picture but not the detail of a flat panel display that can show the differences.

I'm really not concerned about the PS3. You can feel free to bring that up with CurtPalme.com since you know everyone there so well. My attempt is trying to find out if the HDfury2 on the OPPO 83 would provide a better picture than component regardless of maybe not having a "perfect" color set or not. It seems that CurtPalme.com has feedback from owners other than Jeremy's reports ont he Sony PS3 that indicate that they easily see an improvement with colors, sharpness plus a brighter picture when using the HDfury2 with HDMI as compared to looking at their BDP's direct component feed? Are you saying it is a placebo effect or false posts by CurtPalme.com? I'm not defending CurtPalme.com or the HDfury2 but attempting to see why you feel I wouldn't see an improvement on the OPPO 83 (not talking about Panasonic or any other BDP) when using the HDfury2.

Robert
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post #6090 of 12493 Old 11-10-2009, 11:17 PM
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Bob: Quick question on my Toshiba 50HDX82, which I recently acquired from a thrift store.

The blue CRT on this set is problematic; it fairly frequently emits a bright and loud spark from the base of the tube. When this happens, the TV resets immediately and is back online within five seconds.

Besides the fact that it's loud enough to startle me, I am concerned about personal safety and also the safety of the unit.

What could be the problem?
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