Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 252 - AVS Forum
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post #7531 of 12733 Old 11-20-2010, 09:46 AM - Thread Starter
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1080p will also garble your pic, on a CRT RPTV, which is 1080i max.

Whenever I turn off the power strip for my BD player and then leave town and come back again a few days later, my Panny BD player has automatically reset itself to 1080p without my knowledge or consent. Has caused a myriad of problems, including my not being able to play with and review that Moome box they sent me.

Might want to doublecheck that as well.

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post #7532 of 12733 Old 11-20-2010, 10:57 AM
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Quote:


Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post
Thank you much for the reply. I have checked, double checked, and triple checked the 1080i output. Plus, the PS2 is not capable of 720p, only 1080i.

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Originally Posted by superleo View Post

Are you talking about Play Station 2? I'm not 100% on this one, and I'll check on it, but PS2 is DVD not any type of HD, so this would be limited to 480p through component. Or did you mean PS3, then you have different options, and is it dependent on how it is being set up.

The PS2 is able to do 1080i on like 2 games or so. Ps2 model SCPH-50001 and up supposedly have progressive scan that you enable from the ps2 DVD menu when you press select. Make sure in the menu of the ps2 configuration that you have component video out set to Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr.

Leaning and sharing experiences....
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post #7533 of 12733 Old 11-20-2010, 05:12 PM
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Just wondering about the cost and availabilty to fix my Philips 60" Rear Projection TV. I picked it up for $50 from a friend that was going to junk it. It works but the picture is pretty bad. I started the process of changing the coolant in the CRT guns. When I emptied and started to clean the Blue, I noticied some "caked on" stuff on the eyeball lens that refused to come off. Also, that lens has some pretty good scratches on it. Is there a way to get a replacement lens, or do you have to get a new CRT assembly for $100 or more?

Also, don't know if it's just from the state of filth on the blue CRT, but when setting the convergence on the blue crt, it doesn't show up as a cross on the screen like the red. It just shows up as a round blue cloud of color. The picture on screen also has a blue haze everywhere.

So, dunno if when I complete the cleaning and new coolant process, this should be fixed, or if there is a component deeper down that needs work/replacing. And suggestions would be very helpful!

Ray
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post #7534 of 12733 Old 11-20-2010, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Sophm View Post

The PS2 is able to do 1080i on like 2 games or so. Ps2 model SCPH-50001 and up supposedly have progressive scan that you enable from the ps2 DVD menu when you press select. Make sure in the menu of the ps2 configuration that you have component video out set to Y Cb/Pb Cr/Pr.

Correct. In my case, I put in Gran Turismo 4 and went into the menu to select 1080i mode. I haven't played the PS2 in a year or more, but when I last played GT4, the 1080i mode worked fine. Now, it's garbled.

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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

1080p will also garble your pic, on a CRT RPTV, which is 1080i max.

Whenever I turn off the power strip for my BD player and then leave town and come back again a few days later, my Panny BD player has automatically reset itself to 1080p without my knowledge or consent. Has caused a myriad of problems, including my not being able to play with and review that Moome box they sent me.

Might want to doublecheck that as well.

b

Thanks. I went down and double checked tonight. Both X360 and PS2 are set to output 1080i. Neither console has the ability to output 1080p (though the X360 will do 720p, that's not what I am selecting).

It's not that I'm sending the wrong resolution to the TV, it's something that's preventing 1080i from working as it used to.

I have found some info online about coolant leakage, and from what I've found it looks like I need to pop the front panel off of the TV and inspect some circuit boards in there for signs of coolant leakage (corrosion, etc.). I'll post back with what I find ... if anything.

Long story short, it doesn't sound like there's going to be a "Oh yeah, that happens a lot and it's " response here. We'll see.

Thanks!!

-Bob
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post #7535 of 12733 Old 11-20-2010, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If you are confirmed as sending out 1080i, perhaps the set has been exposed to coolant leakage, which may be affecting the HD and not the SD.

b

I'm guessing that this is the case. I took the front panel off (between the speakers) and there appear to be "drops" of corrosion on the right-most circuit board (as seen looking through the front panel). From what I've read about this issue, having traces of coolant leakage on that particular board is bad news because the board is no longer available as a replacement part. True? I'm definitely capable of replacing the board if I can get one ... but of course that also presumes that I could fix the coolant leak.

I snapped a couple of photos so that one of you fine gentlemen can verify what I think I'm seeing. Thank you so much for your help, even if it turns out that the set is on borrowed time!

There are two spots with a sizable (~1/4" diameter) spot, with a couple of much smaller spots nearby that don't show up well in the photos:

Attachment 191700

Attachment 191701

-Bob
LL
LL
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post #7536 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dekuyper View Post

Just wondering about the cost and availabilty to fix my Philips 60" Rear Projection TV. I picked it up for $50 from a friend that was going to junk it. It works but the picture is pretty bad. I started the process of changing the coolant in the CRT guns. When I emptied and started to clean the Blue, I noticied some "caked on" stuff on the eyeball lens that refused to come off. Also, that lens has some pretty good scratches on it. Is there a way to get a replacement lens, or do you have to get a new CRT assembly for $100 or more?

Also, don't know if it's just from the state of filth on the blue CRT, but when setting the convergence on the blue crt, it doesn't show up as a cross on the screen like the red. It just shows up as a round blue cloud of color. The picture on screen also has a blue haze everywhere.

So, dunno if when I complete the cleaning and new coolant process, this should be fixed, or if there is a component deeper down that needs work/replacing. And suggestions would be very helpful!

Ray

You'll need to replace that coolant cover. That caked on stuff is what's causing those other problems, and even if you get it off there will still be residue in that area.

Replace it.


b

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post #7537 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post

I'm guessing that this is the case. I took the front panel off (between the speakers) and there appear to be "drops" of corrosion on the right-most circuit board (as seen looking through the front panel). From what I've read about this issue, having traces of coolant leakage on that particular board is bad news because the board is no longer available as a replacement part. True? I'm definitely capable of replacing the board if I can get one ... but of course that also presumes that I could fix the coolant leak.

I snapped a couple of photos so that one of you fine gentlemen can verify what I think I'm seeing. Thank you so much for your help, even if it turns out that the set is on borrowed time!

There are two spots with a sizable (~1/4" diameter) spot, with a couple of much smaller spots nearby that don't show up well in the photos:

Attachment 191700

Attachment 191701

-Bob

Usually the leakage covers a much more massive area. Since yours is confined to such a small area, that board may be salvageable. It's a 4 layer board, but only the top and bottom layers are used. A talented tech would most likely be able to bring it back from the edge for you. If you'd like to send it to me, contact me directly, no pm's please. We'll talk about it.

Don't worry about it happening again - a shed can be placed appropriately to prevent that. Which should be done now, to shelter all 3 boards, as the other 2 might get leaked on next.

b

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post #7538 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 10:21 AM
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Dump your CRT!? You'll Love your digital fixed pixel display! ??
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post #7539 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post

I went down and double checked tonight. Both X360 and PS2 are set to output 1080i. Neither console has the ability to output 1080p

Just for clarification, the xbox 360 does absolutelty have the ability to output 1080p.

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post #7540 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 10:49 AM
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My daughter has a Kp-51WS510 I purchased used for her a couple of years ago that has been excellent up to about a month ago. It has started intermittently losing blue convergence, but in an odd way. When it goes out, the blue is shifted up a little and to the left a lot on both the left and right 1/4 or so of the screen. the center 1/2 looks OK, perhaps OK a little further to the right than the left. I tried to readjust it to bring it in and it only goes about 1/3 to 1/2 as far as it needs to. Does this sound like the convergence chips? I have found one convergence kit for just under $80 that includes chips, resistors, grease, instructions, etc. I have seen it posted that the chips are available for $20-$30 (is that each, or the set?) and where else might they be available?

Thanks for any help/suggestions!

Al
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post #7541 of 12733 Old 11-21-2010, 10:21 PM
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I have a Hitachi 57F710 set that i would like to clean the lenses and mirror. It looks like the top half of the set can be lifted off to do this--can it?
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post #7542 of 12733 Old 11-22-2010, 05:51 AM
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Originally Posted by vcrpro3 View Post

I have a Hitachi 57F710 set that i would like to clean the lenses and mirror. It looks like the top half of the set can be lifted off to do this--can it?

It can, but that's not what you want to do.
Access is through the front, after taking off the screen. Info, pics, etc., in the 57F59 threads; this one, for example:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=790702
LONG overdue for that service. You will notice a DRAMATIC difference.
You may be more comfortable after a phone consult with Mr. Bob. Most of us were.

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7543 of 12733 Old 11-22-2010, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awaschka View Post

My daughter has a Kp-51WS510 I purchased used for her a couple of years ago that has been excellent up to about a month ago. It has started intermittently losing blue convergence, but in an odd way. When it goes out, the blue is shifted up a little and to the left a lot on both the left and right 1/4 or so of the screen. the center 1/2 looks OK, perhaps OK a little further to the right than the left. I tried to readjust it to bring it in and it only goes about 1/3 to 1/2 as far as it needs to. Does this sound like the convergence chips? I have found one convergence kit for just under $80 that includes chips, resistors, grease, instructions, etc. I have seen it posted that the chips are available for $20-$30 (is that each, or the set?) and where else might they be available?

Thanks for any help/suggestions!

Al

The ICs can be had from Union Electronics or MCM, the token amount of heat sink grease ultra cheap from Radio Shack. In many cases no resistors are needed, but can be found also at RS if need be. If needed they are usually burned or whited out from stress.

$80 for that kind of package is exorbitant with a capital E!

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post #7544 of 12733 Old 11-22-2010, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awaschka View Post

My daughter has a Kp-51WS510 I purchased used for her a couple of years ago that has been excellent up to about a month ago. It has started intermittently losing blue convergence, but in an odd way. When it goes out, the blue is shifted up a little and to the left a lot on both the left and right 1/4 or so of the screen. the center 1/2 looks OK, perhaps OK a little further to the right than the left. I tried to readjust it to bring it in and it only goes about 1/3 to 1/2 as far as it needs to. Does this sound like the convergence chips? I have found one convergence kit for just under $80 that includes chips, resistors, grease, instructions, etc. I have seen it posted that the chips are available for $20-$30 (is that each, or the set?) and where else might they be available?

Thanks for any help/suggestions!

Al

I hope you are comfortable with soldering. If not, it's time to dump that CRT RPTV! The guy who repaired my KP-46WS500 said you should also replace the power supply unit at the same time you replace the convergence ICs. Said if the power supply is going out it can take out the new ICs. Don't know how much truth there is to that, but don't sink too much money into these disposable TVs!
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post #7545 of 12733 Old 11-22-2010, 05:54 PM
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Originally Posted by redline65 View Post

I hope you are comfortable with soldering. If not, it's time to dump that CRT RPTV! The guy who repaired my KP-46WS500 said you should also replace the power supply unit at the same time you replace the convergence ICs. Said if the power supply is going out it can take out the new ICs. Don't know how much truth there is to that, but don't sink too much money into these disposable TVs!

Thanks, Mr Bob and redline65. It happens that I am quite comfortable soldering, and I have the tools for DIP removal as well as the grease. So I guess I'll get a service manual to find out what the parts are and pull the convergence board for inspection. The intermittent nature suggests there may be a bad solder joint on the board, or a resistor on the verge of failing so I may try that before ordering parts.

Do my symptoms (left shift of blue on both sides of center) sound like a convergence problem or something more ominous like a blue CRT failure in the works?

Thanks,

Al
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post #7546 of 12733 Old 11-22-2010, 11:40 PM
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any idea of current value of 2002 55" mitsubishi rptv ws55819 16:9 in good working order?

I want to sell it since I got my jvc rs10 projector. What was I waiting for!

Thanks.
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post #7547 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 12:27 AM
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In reference to the thread title, not that I wish too, but I seem to have no alternative but to drag my 10 year old Mits WT-46805 to the curb... it has served me very well and still produces wonderful images, but it's size and weight prohibits relegating it to bedroom use, and lack of 1080P/HDMI/3D capability combined with the irresistable price of the 65837 on closeout means I couldn't resist replacing it and now find I can't even give it away
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post #7548 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 05:04 AM
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I have a samsung 42" rear projection TV. Recently an orange tint appeared in the top left hand corener. There are also permenant lines on the screen vertically. These are not picture related but screen related, as they are hardly noticable when the TV is on, but when it is off you can see them quite clearly in the black of the screen. Any ideas? Would a 'callibration' fix this?
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post #7549 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commoncents View Post

any idea of current value of 2002 55" mitsubishi rptv ws55819 16:9 in good working order?

I want to sell it since I got my jvc rs10 projector. What was I waiting for!

Thanks.

50 bucks.


If you are lucky.
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post #7550 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 05:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline65 View Post

I hope you are comfortable with soldering. If not, it's time to dump that CRT RPTV! The guy who repaired my KP-46WS500 said you should also replace the power supply unit at the same time you replace the convergence ICs. Said if the power supply is going out it can take out the new ICs. Don't know how much truth there is to that, but don't sink too much money into these disposable TVs!

No truth to that. Sony power supplies never have any problems, that I have heard of in the last 20 years. If he can sell you on putting in a non-needed power supply board, you should also ask him if he has some great swamp land to sell you in Florida, too.

Pioneer Elites of model year circa 2000 yes, but even then, that is the only board in the entire set that has that cold solder joint problem, and there are many boards in those sets. As a very readily fixable problem, it is really not an issue as far as reliability goes on these sets. In fact, it attests to how well that PS board was designed, that it can take the kind of punishment that cold solder joints can cause and still stay stable as a rock, and once resoldered will last forever after that. I have been producing that result for years on those sets, 100% permanent fixes.

This is not a disposable TV. Today's TVs are disposable TVs, not these CRT TVs. These are permanent TVs, and were made to last back then, and I mean last indefinitely. When their owners have respect for them, they can still show HD that is so substantial that it beats the pants off a lot of the current day offerings out there, many of which don't have near the richness and density of fully dialed in CRT. See my original post at the beginning of this thread for more of the why.


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post #7551 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 06:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by awaschka View Post

Thanks, Mr Bob and redline65. It happens that I am quite comfortable soldering, and I have the tools for DIP removal as well as the grease. So I guess I'll get a service manual to find out what the parts are and pull the convergence board for inspection. The intermittent nature suggests there may be a bad solder joint on the board, or a resistor on the verge of failing so I may try that before ordering parts.

Do my symptoms (left shift of blue on both sides of center) sound like a convergence problem or something more ominous like a blue CRT failure in the works?

Thanks,

Al


CRTs don't fail in the way you are describing, they are incapable of that kind of phenom on their own. That is a scanning issue, somewhere in the circuitry leading to and feeding the CRT. Don't worry, your CRT is just fine.

More to the point it is a linearity issue. Horizontal linearity, to be exact.

Intermittencies always primarily point to cold solder joints, a failing resistor would be a very exotic and rare cause and definitely not on the beaten path.

If by DIP you mean what's needed for the huge number of super tiny conn's on each side of the monolithic ICs that are the brains of today's electronics, no that's not what's in play here. Very simple, spaciously placed legs on the ICs in question, and not too many at all. Piece of cake for anyone DIP capable.

A horizontal linearity issue is most likely a problem inside the IC, tho, and will most likely require replacing the offending IC.

b

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post #7552 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 06:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwardmagic View Post

I have a samsung 42" rear projection TV. Recently an orange tint appeared in the top left hand corener. There are also permenant lines on the screen vertically. These are not picture related but screen related, as they are hardly noticable when the TV is on, but when it is off you can see them quite clearly in the black of the screen. Any ideas? Would a 'callibration' fix this?

No. Either your fresnel or lenticular will have to be replaced. Usually it's the fresnel that develops any such problems.

b

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post #7553 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

50 bucks.


If you are lucky.

Somebody's going to make out like a bandit at that price. They are going to get that unit, set it up properly, and have a picture that is every bit as good as that of a new 55" fixed pixel out there, which you'd pay thru the nose for, buying new. Plus tax.

For a fraction of buying new.

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post #7554 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Somebody's going to make out like a bandit at that price. They are going to get that unit, set it up properly, and have a picture that is every bit as good as that of a new 55" fixed pixel out there, which you'd pay thru the nose for, buying new. Plus tax.

For a fraction of buying new.

b


I agree... Unfortunately people just don't want these things anymore. If i had a truck that could haul them around, i'd probably have 2 in every room of my house... and i could probably get 1/2 of them for free...

Good times if you like old crt's !!!
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post #7555 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
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True for "most people". Not true for everyone. Most people don't thirst to drive Lamborghini's either, or have a taste for the fine handling of a Mustang, which they would love regardless of its capacity for speed. Nor have a taste for the subtle nuances of deep puff bass, and the delicate intricacies of what shows up there every now and then, completely hidden from the normal populace.

We who do, know who we are, and we are not trying to keep up with the Joneses.

No pun intended...



b

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post #7556 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

...

We who do know who we are, and we are not trying to keep up with the Joneses.

No pun intended...



b

I was over at my parents last night to watch a basketball game.. they have a very nice calibrated 55" Plasma TV. The HD picture is... mmm... nice, but not comparable or even close to my super tweaked RPCRT.
You have to see one to really understand that there is a difference.

Newer TVs are getting closer, but by the time they compare to CRTs then I would suspect that 3D will be main stream, so we'll start a new cycle.

But for now, if you want videophile picture quality, it is very limited or just keep your RPCRT!!!

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
Screening Room - The Dream House
RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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post #7557 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 10:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post

But for now, if you want videophile picture quality, it is very limited or just keep your RPCRT!!!

And ungodly expensive!

b

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post #7558 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 01:02 PM
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So what is better for anti glare inside a RPCRT-- flat black paint or some black cloth?
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post #7559 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by vcrpro3 View Post

So what is better for anti glare inside a RPCRT-- flat black paint or some black cloth?

Anything that eliminates any source of reflection. I found black felt easier and neater. A Sharpie works on anything else (screw heads) that may still be exposed.


Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7560 of 12733 Old 11-23-2010, 06:10 PM
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Just for clarification, the xbox 360 does absolutelty have the ability to output 1080p.

Ya know what? You're right. I knew the newer HDMI-equipped consoles could do 1080p, but I didn't think my launch console with only component video could do 1080p ... Google claims I'm wrong. Since I don't have any equipment capable of testing it, I'll have to believe it!

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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Usually the leakage covers a much more massive area. Since yours is confined to such a small area, that board may be salvageable. It's a 4 layer board, but only the top and bottom layers are used. A talented tech would most likely be able to bring it back from the edge for you. If you'd like to send it to me, contact me directly, no pm's please. We'll talk about it.

Don't worry about it happening again - a shed can be placed appropriately to prevent that. Which should be done now, to shelter all 3 boards, as the other 2 might get leaked on next.

b

Is it a matter of using some contact cleaner or alcohol and some q-tips to remove the residue and testing to see if the problem goes away? Or are you talking about removing surface-mounted components and replacing?

Thanks!

-Bob
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