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post #7651 of 12552 Old 12-07-2010, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Here are some of mine, from page 203 of this thread. There are others -

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post #7652 of 12552 Old 12-07-2010, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

As I said, get some pix of b/w material, like the original Casablanca, and shots of an all red and an all white pattern, which can be found on test discs.

One of these:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7653 of 12552 Old 12-07-2010, 09:18 PM
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Hello
Can anyone give some feedback as to how the Pioneer Elite 710 compares to the mits 75" Laservue. I know it has different sizes and technology so comparing them might not be easy. but before i upgrade i like a comparison between the two.
thanks for any input,

Rob
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post #7654 of 12552 Old 12-07-2010, 09:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Let me supertweak your 710 and you won't care. Your upgrade will have been taken care of.



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post #7655 of 12552 Old 12-08-2010, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

One of these:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496

@LBNL: Thanks, again!

For real, this is one of the most useful threads I've ever seen.
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post #7656 of 12552 Old 12-08-2010, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IsaacT View Post


...

For real, this is one of the most useful threads I've ever seen.

And after you calibrate your set, you need DEMO material...

Then go to http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1243227

and you can have your very own BLU-RAY HIGH DEFINITION DEMO DISC.

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
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RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
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post #7657 of 12552 Old 12-08-2010, 12:46 PM
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Hi Bob,
Thanks for recomending an alternative! Ill give it some serious thought!
Happy Holidays!
And thanks once again,

Rob
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post #7658 of 12552 Old 12-08-2010, 01:09 PM - Thread Starter
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See the screenshots on page 45 of this thread -

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...402397&page=45

to see what you'd be throwing away. There are other screenshots in that thread too, and also in this one -


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post #7659 of 12552 Old 12-09-2010, 07:13 AM
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I cannot get the convergence to work on the far right hand side of my screen, but only when i'm displaying 480p. I can get into the service menu and correct everything at 1080i, but the service menu doesn't work at 480p....

Kinda lost on what exactly to do about it?
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post #7660 of 12552 Old 12-09-2010, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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What kind of set is it?

If the SD and HD have 2 different/separate memories, chances are some of your points on the right side are maxed out and need to be taken in, back more towards their midpoints, leaving the more Coarse registers to do the heavy lifting.


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post #7661 of 12552 Old 12-09-2010, 07:27 PM
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RPCRT in all its might!!!






"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
Screening Room - The Dream House
RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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post #7662 of 12552 Old 12-09-2010, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
What kind of set is it?

If the SD and HD have 2 different/separate memories, chances are some of your points on the right side are maxed out and need to be taken in, back more towards their midpoints, leaving the more Coarse registers to do the heavy lifting.


b
Panny 47x53.


1080i looks pretty good, i might be able to get it a bit better by messing with the geometry. But man, 480, about 2 inches around the entire screen, is hosed. I decreased the overscan a bit so i could see scores on playstation3, i see why it was set so high now, the geometry on the edge is poop.
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post #7663 of 12552 Old 12-10-2010, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

Panny 47x53.


1080i looks pretty good, i might be able to get it a bit better by messing with the geometry. But man, 480, about 2 inches around the entire screen, is hosed. I decreased the overscan a bit so i could see scores on playstation3, i see why it was set so high now, the geometry on the edge is poop.

If you want to have positive results with overscan the best way of doing it is by shimming the gun array... there is plenty of information about it. You would like the results.

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
Screening Room - The Dream House
RPCRT-TV Overscan Reduction
Reference Blu-Ray Demo Disc

Reference 2: Blu-Ray Demo Disc

The Best of the Demo Discs Demo Disc

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post #7664 of 12552 Old 12-10-2010, 07:00 AM
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Maybe I should have read this thread before giving away my Sony KP-65WV700 which had the convergence issue and the blue lamp was almost dead. I was quoted upwards of $500+ to repair it so went head and bought the Mitsubishi 82-738. Even though the mits is a fantastic tv, I do miss my Sony, it gave me many years of joy.
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post #7665 of 12552 Old 12-10-2010, 01:19 PM
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I have an issue with my Mitsubishi WS-55857 projection TV. It's been working fine then 1 day i went to turn it on, it came on, then two seconds later turned off. I repeated the process a couple time with the same outcome. Came back a few days later and it didn't even turn on, no red light nothing.
I disconnected all the cables and unplugged the power. Plugged it back in and no luck. Took the back off and checked if there were any loose boards...no luck.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for your help in advance.
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post #7666 of 12552 Old 12-11-2010, 08:56 PM
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I came back here with a Mitsubishi WS-65857 issue as well. The issue has already been pointed out in this thread (Post 7603 Page 254), but mine may be different. The TV goes on fine, but the picture is blue with no video. The menu does not come up, only the screen turns black. Simple OSD things work like volume, contrast brightness, input... The convergence is way out of whack. Same as in the video. Seems like the ICs may be bad but it may be something else (I have replaced ICs before).

Real confusing thing is I can get into the service menu, but in the convergence settings the values only go from -1 to 1 for all of the settings. Any idea what this may be caused by? Is this IC related?

Also, two of the guns have leaked coolant onto the board. There are a couple of spots on the signal board and the center board with the ICs.

Any help is appreciated. I do not want to throw money into new ICs if they are fine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post
If you want to have positive results with overscan the best way of doing it is by shimming the gun array... there is plenty of information about it. You would like the results.
Or you could pick up a used DVDO VP30 on eBay for around $300 and get the full picture.
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post #7667 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 12:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post
Panny 47x53.


1080i looks pretty good, i might be able to get it a bit better by messing with the geometry. But man, 480, about 2 inches around the entire screen, is hosed. I decreased the overscan a bit so i could see scores on playstation3, i see why it was set so high now, the geometry on the edge is poop.
On a Panny you might have to do a reset on the entire scanrate. If you clear just the 480, the 1080 should not be affected, but I take no responsibility! I accidentally cleared my 1080 once on my Panny 65", and no other scanrates were affected.

Sometimes the points just get driven off the chart and you have to start over.


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post #7668 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 12:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post
If you want to have positive results with overscan the best way of doing it is by shimming the gun array... there is plenty of information about it. You would like the results.
+1!



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post #7669 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 12:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mr_jbloggs View Post
Maybe I should have read this thread before giving away my Sony KP-65WV700 which had the convergence issue and the blue lamp was almost dead. I was quoted upwards of $500+ to repair it so went head and bought the Mitsubishi 82-738. Even though the mits is a fantastic tv, I do miss my Sony, it gave me many years of joy.
I coulda kept it going for you indefinitely.

b

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post #7670 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 12:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blambert007 View Post
I have an issue with my Mitsubishi WS-55857 projection TV. It's been working fine then 1 day i went to turn it on, it came on, then two seconds later turned off. I repeated the process a couple time with the same outcome. Came back a few days later and it didn't even turn on, no red light nothing.
I disconnected all the cables and unplugged the power. Plugged it back in and no luck. Took the back off and checked if there were any loose boards...no luck.
Any other suggestions?
Thanks for your help in advance.
I have access to Mit tech assist, if you want to give me a call -

b

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post #7671 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 01:08 AM
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bob, i was thinking of buying either the laservue or the 73838 mits but it looks like i might have to put that on hold for a while longer. my question is, i have a Hitachi 65swx20b and its gorgeous but seeing as though i'm gonna keep this set for about another year or so, do you do ISF cals still to customer types like me or just just for close friends and such?

I wanna get the works done to this set, the complete ISF calibration on 2 inputs. one is DVI and one Componant. i mean EVERYTHING... geometry, overscan, convergence, grey scale and color.

as far as deep cleaning, i pretty much just did that myself, so outside of something you may notice i dont think it'll need it.

to have you do something like that, how much and when? if you dont or cant do that could you recommend someone that you trust to me please! i'm in the metro detroit area.
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post #7672 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 07:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

Panny 47x53.


1080i looks pretty good, i might be able to get it a bit better by messing with the geometry. But man, 480, about 2 inches around the entire screen, is hosed. I decreased the overscan a bit so i could see scores on playstation3, i see why it was set so high now, the geometry on the edge is poop.

Hope you didn't ONLY use the fine points to do that! On Panny there are Coarse geometry settings that can be used to much greater advantage. Same on Pioneer Elite and non-Elite, and on Mits. On Hitachi there are coarse sets of points and fine sets of points, each set doing its own proper job. Using JUST the fine points is not recommended at all! It pushes things way outside of their design parameter limits, stressing the system. Things need to be calibrated for shaping and placement to stay appropriate within their linear operating ranges, not outside of them.

On second thought to my post above, perhaps what you are seeing is the natural hosing that goes on anytime you reduce the overscan, in any way, shape or form. Doesn't matter whether you're using the shimming op plus service mode or just the service menu alone, your pic gets massively hosed with o'scan redux and has to be corrected afterwards, bigtime. Don't believe you mentioned that till later.

If so, you simply need to do the proper recalibration of your set in response to this. There is a lot more to do with service menu only method, but still a lot to do with shimming op.

I have mentioned this ad infinitum in other threads where we get into it in explicit detail - among other things I have been writing about just this phenom for more than 10 years. Earlier on in this very thread I give an intense expose of what I did to my 73" Mit and what the pix looked like along the way, hosed and then corrected. Find it, and also search out other threads that have been dedicated to overscan redux/reduction, there is an especially good one written about a Hitachi around here somewhere, where I also contributed screenshots of my own display in transition.

Superleo and LastButNotLeast have both done the o'scan redux, they can verify what I am saying here. To really pull off o'scan redux, you gotta have a lot of time available and be willing to man a strong learning curve.

This op is invaluable, but definitely not for the faint of heart. If you don't have at least those 2 things to offer to the project, don't even embark on it! Don't even start - and if you do, prepare a GOOD bread crumbs trail back to where you started before changing a thing! Mark your focus barrel settings, record all your geometry settings, and if you really want to have fun, try charting all your point values, if they are actually given on your brand - before changing a thing. (I usually do everything but the point values, but have done so - charted out all the points I was gonna change - in the past on Pioneer Elites, to my great relief later!)



I am available for phone coaching if you want to contact me directly. No pms please -


b

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post #7673 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 12:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Superleo and LastButNotLeast have both done the o'scan redux, they can verify what I am saying here. To really pull off o'scan redux, you gotta have a lot of time available and be willing to man a strong learning curve.

Keep in mind that there will still be some overscan. Mine's about 4% or less. The shimming also greatly increases sharpness, but some overscan is unavoidable with this technology.
Michael

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Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7674 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post


Hope you didn't ONLY use the fine points to do that! On Panny there are Coarse geometry settings that can be used to much greater advantage. Same on Pioneer Elite and non-Elite, and on Mits. On Hitachi there are coarse sets of points and fine sets of points, each set doing its own proper job. Using JUST the fine points is not recommended at all! It pushes things way outside of their design parameter limits, stressing the system. Things need to be calibrated for shaping and placement to stay appropriate within their linear operating ranges, not outside of them.

On second thought to my post above, perhaps what you are seeing is the natural hosing that goes on anytime you reduce the overscan, in any way, shape or form. Doesn't matter whether you're using the shimming op plus service mode or just the service menu alone, your pic gets massively hosed with o'scan redux and has to be corrected afterwards, bigtime. Don't believe you mentioned that till later.

If so, you simply need to do the proper recalibration of your set in response to this. There is a lot more to do with service menu only method, but still a lot to do with shimming op.

I have mentioned this ad infinitum in other threads where we get into it in explicit detail - among other things I have been writing about just this phenom for more than 10 years. Earlier on in this very thread I give an intense expose of what I did to my 73" Mit and what the pix looked like along the way, hosed and then corrected. Find it, and also search out other threads that have been dedicated to overscan redux/reduction, there is an especially good one written about a Hitachi around here somewhere, where I also contributed screenshots of my own display in transition.

Superleo and LastButNotLeast have both done the o'scan redux, they can verify what I am saying here. To really pull off o'scan redux, you gotta have a lot of time available and be willing to man a strong learning curve.

This op is invaluable, but definitely not for the faint of heart. If you don't have at least those 2 things to offer to the project, don't even embark on it! Don't even start - and if you do, prepare a GOOD bread crumbs trail back to where you started before changing a thing! Mark your focus barrel settings, record all your geometry settings, and if you really want to have fun, try charting all your point values, if they are actually given on your brand - before changing a thing. (I usually do everything but the point values, but have done so in the past on Pioneer Elites, to my great relief later!)



I am available for phone coaching if you want to contact me directly. No pms please -

b

There is no points in 480p. All options in service menu are greyed out. That's what I'm confused about. On my CRT projectors you set everything up for each resolution.
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post #7675 of 12552 Old 12-12-2010, 09:09 PM
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I'm trying to hang onto my old Pioneer 64" RPTV from Costco, the SD-643HD5 to be exact. Problem is, I managed to mess up the component inputs on the back pretty good from them repeatedly banging into the UPS I had behind it over the years, and I think they are a little, I dunno, loose or something. When using them now, plugging in the component cables usually requires I jiggle them to just the right spot/angle to not get any issues with the color (hard to describe, things just get blurry or a little "off". I am certain the issue resides in the inputs there at that board, but I don't want to spend a ton to fix this.

I took the back off and it doesn't look like it's easy to just tighten them up. I'm also a bit afraid of running into voltage (never had to open up the set to work on it before). Any advice or fixes would be very much appreciated. For a set as old as it is, the picture is still beautiful especially viewing high definition. I was surprised at how clean it was inside too.

Help?
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post #7676 of 12552 Old 12-14-2010, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

I have access to Mit tech assist, if you want to give me a call -

b

Bob-

I will take you up on that. I'm at work now and would prefer to be in front of the set prior to troubleshooting. Do you have any suggestions as to what the issue is or anything i can do ahead of time? Thanks for the reply.
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post #7677 of 12552 Old 12-14-2010, 01:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

There is no points in 480p. All options in service menu are greyed out. That's what I'm confused about. On my CRT projectors you set everything up for each resolution.

That's because you need a 1080i signal going in to be able to change the 480p. If you just have a 480p - or i - sig going in, it grays out on you. The set needs that 1080i sig to lock up on the sync properly. Its sync needs 1080i to be able to work with 480p or 1080i, on the image structure.

I got caught with my pants down when I was flown up to Vanc. Canada years ago by a Burbank screenwriter to calibrate his Panny directview HDready, and had not yet equipped myself with my current Accupel HD pattern generator gear. And at that time no Bluray existed yet.

I had called Panasonic to check things out ahead of time, they neglected to tell me about this. I could only do his 480i, as he didn't have any HD at all. All he wanted was 480p, didn't even want 1080i. But could not have it because at that time 1080i was very rare.

He was not pleased...

Sometime even the most credible and trusted information cannot substitute for experience...

b

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post #7678 of 12552 Old 12-14-2010, 02:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BradP View Post

I'm trying to hang onto my old Pioneer 64" RPTV from Costco, the SD-643HD5 to be exact. Problem is, I managed to mess up the component inputs on the back pretty good from them repeatedly banging into the UPS I had behind it over the years, and I think they are a little, I dunno, loose or something. When using them now, plugging in the component cables usually requires I jiggle them to just the right spot/angle to not get any issues with the color (hard to describe, things just get blurry or a little "off". I am certain the issue resides in the inputs there at that board, but I don't want to spend a ton to fix this.

I took the back off and it doesn't look like it's easy to just tighten them up. I'm also a bit afraid of running into voltage (never had to open up the set to work on it before). Any advice or fixes would be very much appreciated. For a set as old as it is, the picture is still beautiful especially viewing high definition. I was surprised at how clean it was inside too.

Help?

You either have to replace the jacks, or maybe just re-solder the connections of the jack to the PCB. Either operation is relatively simple; if you have a buddy that's handy with a soldering iron, that and a few bucks worth of RCA female jacks from Digi-Key is all you will need.

Note that I've never seen the inside of a Pioneer RPTV, and this job might be a little more challenging if the jacks are buried under an EMI shield of some sort. Either way, it's a cheap (<$10) fix for yourself, maybe $10 + a six-pack of beer if you find a buddy to do the soldering for you.

Just to confirm though, if you jiggle the green jack (Y), the picture should appear to go in and out, and if you jiggle one of the other two connectors (Pb or Pr), the picture should end up with weird colors?

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post #7679 of 12552 Old 12-14-2010, 04:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Right. You won't find a quicker, cheaper fix to do on a CRT RPTV!



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post #7680 of 12552 Old 12-14-2010, 04:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hockeytown Fan View Post

bob, i was thinking of buying either the laservue or the 73838 mits but it looks like i might have to put that on hold for a while longer. my question is, i have a Hitachi 65swx20b and its gorgeous but seeing as though i'm gonna keep this set for about another year or so, do you do ISF cals still to customer types like me or just just for close friends and such?

I wanna get the works done to this set, the complete ISF calibration on 2 inputs. one is DVI and one Componant. i mean EVERYTHING... geometry, overscan, convergence, grey scale and color.

as far as deep cleaning, i pretty much just did that myself, so outside of something you may notice i dont think it'll need it.

to have you do something like that, how much and when? if you dont or cant do that could you recommend someone that you trust to me please! i'm in the metro detroit area.
Thank you
Chris

Awesome set. Yes I still do them, stem to stern, anywhere in the world an owner would like to fly me in to.

Contact me directly and I'll fill you in. No pm's please -

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