Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 258 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #7711 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Since you could turn the RON GON BON and PON - Picture on/off - to OFF in the sm and then memorize it that way, it was possible to have your set show no picture AT ALL once back out of service mode.

Picture off?
Can I meet the EE who came up with that stroke of brilliance?
Please?!

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7712 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 11:32 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Which is why I cancelled my NetFlix membership after the trial month. Some of us actually still care about such things.

Why? Have NF streaming for 2-3 months now and am quite pleased with the picture/audio quality. Looks really, REALLY good from my LG BD570 and DLP as well as my Panny BD65 and CRT HD RPTV.
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post #7713 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Why? Have NF streaming for 2-3 months now and am quite pleased with the picture/audio quality. Looks really, REALLY good from my LG BD570 and DLP as well as my Panny BD65 and CRT HD RPTV.

I think you need to watch more Blu-Ray instead of the DVD/streaming garbage from NF.
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post #7714 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Picture off?
Can I meet the EE who came up with that stroke of brilliance?
Please?!

That was not the bad part. It was memorizeable! You come out of sm with it memorized OFF, an that's that! They should at least have made it so it could not be memorized! So any setting of Picture Off - or any of the colors Off - would vaporize automatically once you'd left service mode.

There was a time and place to have color isolation - like for color decoding - but the set had to be in some form of service mode to utilize that feature. Making it so that none of those registers would carry on out of either of their primary service modes - or any of their secondaries either - shoulda been top priority!



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post #7715 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 12:27 PM
 
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I still feel that HD DVD has the better PQ in comparison to BD. But I like the streaming abilities of the bdps I have and the HD DVD doesn't have that ability. Tell what ticked me off last nite watching a blu-ray (The Green Zone) and that was the BD65 kept popping up a box saying that BD live was disabled. After getting rid of it it kept popping up every 5 minutes until I stopped the movie, turned BD live on, and restarted the movie. Never had ******** issues like that with HD DVD.
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post #7716 of 13302 Old 12-19-2010, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Splicer010 View Post

Why? Have NF streaming for 2-3 months now and am quite pleased with the picture/audio quality. Looks really, REALLY good from my LG BD570 and DLP as well as my Panny BD65 and CRT HD RPTV.

My Comcast connection is not the greatest, which may be part of it. I'm pretty sure you're not getting 5.1 sound, even with a decent picture. And they don't (yet) support subtitles.
I'm not saying I'll NEVER use it again, just not now.
And I have a COUPLE of HDs and BDs to watch in the meantime.

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7717 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 09:16 AM
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Well Mr Bob I picked up a WS-55313 from 2003 for 100$. I sold my Broken (which I did try to fix with new Caps on the power board but NOGO) 46" Panny Plasma for 75$.
So I got a working 55" RPTV for 25$
Now I just have to read up and learn how to make the picture come alive after 8 years of use.

Plasma 800$ / RPTV 25$
Welcome 25$ RPTV
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post #7718 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 09:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Be careful out there. Many info's are not what they seem. Don't paint yourself into a corner you can't get out of without professional assistance. It's far cheaper to get limited professional assistance on the phone for a price you can easily afford, than to have to call in - or maybe even fly in - a pro after you've really messed things up on your display.

This happened recently with someone I was phone coaching - he got ahead of himself on his own after our 2 hour long sessions where he stayed on the straight and narrow because of my being right there, and now regrets it. He decided he didn't want to spring for a third hour and had the service manual, so I said to go with God and let me know how it turns out.

He is now mad at me for not warning him more, ahead of time, as to what could happen under the wrong circs when you do this stuff on your own and don't necessarily stay on the straight and narrow. I have many owners who have taken what I have written and what others have written - like Grayscale for Dummies - and done incredible work on their sets. They have been intrepid workers and now have sets that most owners can only dream about. Leo and Michael, I salute you! And many others.

I can only take limited credit for that, and always assume that if someone does this work on their own that they know the potential downsides. Like plastic surgery. Yeah, it can do wonders. And can scar you for life, if not done correctly.

He now rebukes me for that Pollyana assumption on my part. Guess it doesn't apply to everybody.

DIYing happens a lot when you got a super deal, and a lot of that DIYing happens in the same tradition - on the cheap and without the proper coaching or training. You figure it doesn't matter if you screw things up, you can always just start over with another one. And as a result our landfills continue to get jammed up with things like 55" big screens - here take this one, yeah I screwed it up but it's only one more, and I can get another one...

Definitely not how I would encourage owners to think about things like this. Treat it like you paid the $4000 most people paid for that size and grade of big screen at the time. It's a Mit, for God's sake! You got the deal of the century. Now put some money into it! Some of that vast sum you saved, on that incredible deal you got!

The proper training/coaching also pays for itself many times over just in time savings, in not having to man learning curves that it took years for pros to man and master. With training and coaching, it takes just a fraction of the time it would take if you were doing it on your own, and with all the conflicting info out there... I once had to step up and openly disagree with a guy on the net who was saying to defocus the blue mechanically, so it would match the fact that the green and red were already off a little bit. HellO... Just because someone wants to get his name in lights by posting something on the internet does not necessarily give it ANY credibility or efficacy.



So do well and have fun. You've been warned -



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post #7719 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 10:32 AM
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Greetings,
Does anyone know what the difference is between the following service menu codes:
BRTC - Bright Center
BRTN - ?

It appears both can be used to fine tune shadow detail and black levels.

Also,
Does anyone have any tips on setting contrast? Since my set does not really cause blooming or line distortions, it is difficult to dial it in using Avia test patterns.

Thanks in advance.
Dan
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post #7720 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 10:50 AM - Thread Starter
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DK about the BRT registers. I alter what needs to be altered and leave the rest alone. Any type of BRT setting will probably affect your shadow detail, which has to be very carefully balanced between too much fill, causing haze, and too little fill, causing shadow detail starvation - black crush - at your eyes. The right setting will get you proper shadow detail with absolutely no haze.

Contrast is overall light level, and rarely needs to be altered away from factory position. That said, midpoint of your Contrast is videophile setting, and on Tosh's you should be running it at midpoint, as is the case with nearly all brands.

On a Mit, you need to be running it at 35-40% up to get the same actual light levels.

If you have a set that has advanced years of heavy use on it, you may need to turn up that Contrast a few notches to achieve the same light levels now.


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post #7721 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
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I just posted this on the Problems with Pioneer Elite 510 thread, thought I'd share it with you here, too. Disregard the part about the resoldering, which only applies to those units, this message is primarily about ALL CRT units -


People keep contacting me and asking me if I still do the resoldering on these boards.

HellO...

Simple answer, yes I do.


More elaborate answer:

When these CRT RPTVs were just 5-7 years old I was saying I could keep them looking like new or better for a minimum of 10 years.

I no longer say that. It is now 11 years since HD came to our country, and these CRT RPTVs just keep ticking, like a Timex watch. Properly cared for, they are every bit as viable today as they were when new. And capable of dynamic punch and precision - and depth - most fixed pixel bulb-driven sets can only dream of.

They are PERMANENT SETS. They can even be completely regunned when necessary, tho that has not needed to happen yet, either. They were designed to last, back when such things were actually done. Today it's anybody's guess as to how long your NEW display will last. Definitely not as long as CRT was designed for. They just don't build things to last anymore, these days.

If you own a Pioneer Elite or non Elite HDready, KEEP IT! There is absolutely no need to buy new, and some very good reasons not to.

I now say you can keep these sets looking like new or better INDEFINITELY.

Yes I will continue to keep resoldering them till there are no more to resolder, and then I will continue to keep restoring them to performance and brilliance most owners never knew they could have, out of these sets.

I am here for CRT owners, both RPTV and front projection, all brands. I am not going anywhere. I intend to stay here.



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post #7722 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Panasonic and Oppo BDP's, both deliver blacker than black out of component. Sony does not.

www.monoprice.com for the switcher.

b

Thanks Bob. I ended up picking up the Samsung C-6500. Nice player at an affordable price. Plus good streaming options.

Now off to order the switcher. . .
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post #7723 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdenichilo View Post

Thanks Bob. I ended up picking up the Samsung C-6500. Nice player at an affordable price. Plus good streaming options.

Now off to order the switcher. . .

I believe Sammy delivers btb out of both outputs as well, component and HDMI. Will have to doublecheck that next chance I get -

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post #7724 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

DK about the BRT registers. I alter what needs to be altered and leave the rest alone. Any type of BRT setting will probably affect your shadow detail, which has to be very carefully balanced between too much fill, causing haze, and too little fill, causing shadow detail starvation - black crush - at your eyes. The right setting will get you proper shadow detail with absolutely no haze.

Contrast is overall light level, and rarely needs to be altered away from factory position. That said, midpoint of your Contrast is videophile setting, and on Tosh's you should be running it at midpoint, as is the case with nearly all brands.

On a Mit, you need to be running it at 35-40% up to get the same actual light levels.

If you have a set that has advanced years of heavy use on it, you may need to turn up that Contrast a few notches to achieve the same light levels now.


b

Thanks for the tips and pointers. I agree with what you said. I spent hours trying to find a good balance. I have noticed that the source material is a factor as well. Taking a look at the Fifth Element and I Robot i had achieved great results in bringing out the dark detail while avoiding the haze, however, watching Underworld, the Rise of the Lycans on cable HD programming, i couldn't nail down getting the most detail without a touch of Haze...That movie is extremely dark..
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post #7725 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Your optics recently/freshly cleaned? If not you don't have a chance of getting it right. Tosh's definitely need the deeper optics cleaned as well as the regular optics.

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post #7726 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlenart25 View Post

however, watching Underworld, the Rise of the Lycans on cable HD programming, i couldn't nail down getting the most detail without a touch of Haze...That movie is extremely dark..

And HD cable is not the best source, so don't use it for serious calibration. One of the many reasons I'm still buying BDs.

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7727 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 11:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Your optics recently/freshly cleaned? If not you don't have a chance of getting it right. Tosh's definitely need the deeper optics cleaned as well as the regular optics.

b


Well, I did a 10 surface cleaning with paper towel and Lens Cleaner (DOC Eyeglass cleaner).

I cleaned the mirror, and cleaned 3 surfaces on each gun. I unscrewed and detached each lens assembly, cleaned the top lens, bottom lens and the lens underneath the lens assembly. I could not however, get the lens assembly itself apart becuase it was in the molded plastic housing. I did notice one of my guns has a small scratch on the outer edge of the lens from a lens stripping exercise a while back. I'm currently trying to get some replacement lenses from Craigslist.

I also performed some geometry/overscan touchups.
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post #7728 of 13302 Old 12-20-2010, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Don't worry about the lenses internal to each barrel. They will only have independent specks of airborne debris, never enough to worry about because everything is out of focus at that part of the light path. That negligible amount has been there since day one, and didn't cause any problems then either.

The only thing we worry about with optics cleaning is the blanketing of dust. Or soot, or lint, or in the case of the mirror, smoke.

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post #7729 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 06:01 AM
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Does anyone know what RPTV's/Brands have compatible lense assemblies for the Toshiba 51 H-84 Series. I'm trying to pick up a junker from craigslist to steal the lenses from.

Thanks,
Dan
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post #7730 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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What makes you think any such lenses would be in any better shape than the ones you currently have? Aside from that small scratch near the outside of the lens you mentioned, any used lenses will be in dire need of proper cleaning just like yours were.

That said, the lenses have to fit up against the CRT coolant covers, which when filled with transparent coolant comprise the first and most primary lenses in the unit. All the lenses then form the stack that actually does the projecting, and none of them can be eliminated from the stack.

Have never seen anyone try to change or modify that. Most of the best lenses are Delta lenses, but each set's individual compositions and designs are all over the map.

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post #7731 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 09:01 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dlenart25 View Post

Well, I did a 10 surface cleaning with paper towel and Lens Cleaner (DOC Eyeglass cleaner).


Did that clean the optics to a level of excellence equivalent to new? No eyeglasses ever got as bad as the lenses in a CRT RPTV with that 30KV going on, setting up that static cling every microsecond the unit is on, scouring the air at all times and depositing - glopping on is more like it - that bleck on your surfaces. Totally different from eyeglasses.

I have no idea whether you did it to the level I phone coach people at. If not, that could be the answer for you.

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post #7732 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 09:10 PM
 
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Merry Christmas Bob! Thanks for starting as well as maintaining a great and invaluable thread my friend.
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post #7733 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 09:50 PM - Thread Starter
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You too!



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post #7734 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 10:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Merry Christmas to all the CRT lovers out there who have made this thread what it is!



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post #7735 of 13302 Old 12-21-2010, 11:27 PM
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Quote:
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I started to see some red lines on my Pro-730HDi. I never had this problem before unlike like other users and my set was upgraded with latest Pioneer kit in 2005 or 2006. Has anyone seen this problem to come back after the set was upgraded with the latest kit per this settlement http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pi...ndPendency.pdf ? I guess I can try swapping Video Amplification assembly with another gun to see if the problem follows it. I still have the paperwork the tech provided when he replaced them with voltage potentials for each CRT. I can readjust the voltage (if I'm not mistaken it was in 180V range). The lines appear to be most noticeable when I have red background or press info (perhaps 100IRE) on my Samsung OTA receiver. I may post some pictures tonight.

I did a bit a reasearch dig up some documentation. Swap is not a possibility. I can get a replacement from ecompass, but there is no need for that. The upgrade kit consisted of video amplifier swap, diode replacement (there are two in series, one of them was replaced), buffing up ground on PCB and replacing video driver. I checked the diodes, measured voltage on PCB, touched the video amp IC (dusted off). Anyhow the problem is gone now. I didn't see any cold solder joints but I haven't removed the board, so it's really hard to inspect the IC. In anycase if it comes back I just replace the video driver IC. The worst case scenario I can replace the whole PCA (which is under $100 shipped). Long live CRT. I need to take some pictures...
Merry Christmas to all!
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post #7736 of 13302 Old 12-23-2010, 05:23 PM
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I figure since this thread gets alot of traffic i would post in here also with my latest project

I just picked up a mitsubishi ws-65819 for free on craigs list. The person first said that only the dtv 1080i/480i/480p input worked but had no sound and the other inputs were dead. Then the next day he said that now that input stopped working. So i picked up the tv yesterday and turned it on today.

I was using a xbox to test with. It worked on the DTV 1080i but had no sound. I noticed that the other inputs were turned off in the menu. I turned them on and i had video on the other 408i/p inputs but still no audio. What is weird is that i see no menu or input id when i did not have the xbox on. It would not display anything. Also when i tried to play a dvd with the xbox it would not display and it also did not show the xbox statup screen. I went ahead and hooked up a ps3 and it worked fine but still no audio. I then tried the xbox again and now it does no display on any inputs. Also i left the tv menu up and turned off the xbox and the menu stayed up but the convergance went out of focus and it was frozen.

To sum it up.....
So as of now the 1080i/480i/480p input works with the ps3.
The xbox will display games but when it comes to dvd it will not display and the start up screen does not display when no disk is inserted.
There is no menu screen or input id displayed. It only shows up when the ps3 or xbox is on. Also when there is no display the screen is dark but the bottom has a darker bar that goes across it and is slightly bowed.

I verified that the video settings are correct with the xbox . I have it set for 480i/480p/1080i. I hooked it back up to my ws-55813 and it is perfect. I also blew out all the dust from inside and i did not see any signs of coolant leakage. Also reseated the input board. Also i press the av/reset but i do not see the light flas or screen blank out.

Any ideas?

Thank you
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post #7737 of 13302 Old 12-24-2010, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Is there a factory installed drip shed on this unit? If so drippage should not be a worry, tho I know you said you have checked for that. In one instance I saw the red gun completely empty onto the board beneath it, despite being equipped with a drip shed. But that's the only time I have seen anything that drastic, and was probably the only time it ever happened.

If you did not see any evidence of leakage - like corrosion if there had been leakage in the past, but dried up now - then I don't know what to say. Whenever a set has freaky things like this happen, the first likely suspect is that coolant leakage.

You might see if anyone is parting out boards from your set's model number. The board containing the audio is definitely suspect -

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post #7738 of 13302 Old 12-24-2010, 12:48 PM
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I had been looking for a bigger Mits. (I have a 55809) and I found a 73615 at a very reasonable price. My buddy and I took it apart to transport it, boy was that sucker heavy! I will be cleaning the lens this weekend while it is still apart and blacking out anything reflective in the light box. The previous owner did not do any service on it, probably a good thing. I look forward to tweaking it to get the best picture possible. I saw on an older post that Mr Bob had a Mits.73" that he was going to replace the mylar mirror with a glass one, did that ever happen? I would be interested in the picture difference,light output, and detail difference,if any. Thanks, Rod.
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post #7739 of 13302 Old 12-25-2010, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank God for wheels, huh! Be ready, once you have that glass mirror in there in place of the ultra-light mylar one, that top section will be even heavier!

No, life has not granted me the time to do that mirror replacement yet. Still under the gun on other key life issues that can't be avoided.

But that's the least of your worries, it's secondary in my book. Even with my present mylar mirror, I am still getting stealth grade, incredibly superb performance from a screen I can sit so close to that people call it my "own private IMAX". People have driven from 5 hours away just to see it. It's truly a wonder to behold, and I invite anybody reading this to contact me so you can come over and experience it for yourself.

Your set is a late model set just like mine and is eminently ready to deliver a pic just as good as mine, with the proper work. I would concentrate on that first, and get to the mirror later, if you have to choose.

If you have time on your hands like I don't, yeah, work out that glass mirror thing first and go from there. It will give you 25% more light output than mylar and blacker blacks, for even deeper shadow detail when the Brightness setting is tuned just right in User.

www.highreflectivemirrors.com

And I believe it's a late enough model to qualify for the CraigR anti-ee mod, for fine tuning the sharpness of your picture on each of the 3 guns. This is available as an add-on in any of my calibrations, if your Mit or Sony set is a late enough model to support it.


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post #7740 of 13302 Old 12-26-2010, 06:05 AM
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Hello all and happy holiday!

I've been a proud owner of a Toshiba 50HDX82 since 2003. The only calibration I did was the 56 point convergence myself years ago when I first got it.

Have been watching 1080i TV for years and recently bought my first Blu-ray player. My wife was hoping the player would not work with the set and that I would be "forced" to buy a flat screen (she hates the size of the Toshiba)

Well surprise....it works great and the picture of the Blu-ray movies are fantastic.

Here is my question......I would like to get the Toshiba professionally calibrated, but since RPTVs are not "in" who would I contact here in NJ? Is there a group or society?

Thanks!

Long live RPTVs!
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