Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 259 - AVS Forum
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post #7741 of 12490 Old 12-25-2010, 08:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank God for wheels, huh! Be ready, once you have that glass mirror in there in place of the ultra-light mylar one, that top section will be even heavier!

No, life has not granted me the time to do that mirror replacement yet. Still under the gun on other key life issues that can't be avoided.

But that's the least of your worries, it's secondary in my book. Even with my present mylar mirror, I am still getting stealth grade, incredibly superb performance from a screen I can sit so close to that people call it my "own private IMAX". People have driven from 5 hours away just to see it. It's truly a wonder to behold, and I invite anybody reading this to contact me so you can come over and experience it for yourself.

Your set is a late model set just like mine and is eminently ready to deliver a pic just as good as mine, with the proper work. I would concentrate on that first, and get to the mirror later, if you have to choose.

If you have time on your hands like I don't, yeah, work out that glass mirror thing first and go from there. It will give you 25% more light output than mylar and blacker blacks, for even deeper shadow detail when the Brightness setting is tuned just right in User.

www.highreflectivemirrors.com

And I believe it's a late enough model to qualify for the CraigR anti-ee mod, for fine tuning the sharpness of your picture on each of the 3 guns. This is available as an add-on in any of my calibrations, if your Mit or Sony set is a late enough model to support it.


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post #7742 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 06:05 AM
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Hello all and happy holiday!

I've been a proud owner of a Toshiba 50HDX82 since 2003. The only calibration I did was the 56 point convergence myself years ago when I first got it.

Have been watching 1080i TV for years and recently bought my first Blu-ray player. My wife was hoping the player would not work with the set and that I would be "forced" to buy a flat screen (she hates the size of the Toshiba)

Well surprise....it works great and the picture of the Blu-ray movies are fantastic.

Here is my question......I would like to get the Toshiba professionally calibrated, but since RPTVs are not "in" who would I contact here in NJ? Is there a group or society?

Thanks!

Long live RPTVs!
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post #7743 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Very few calibrators work on CRT anymore. If you can't find one with a national reputation who still does work on them, DO NOT settle for a local repair tech unless he is highly unusual in his talents and is known on the net for being CRT capable as well as repair capable. Repair techs are incredibly valuable for what they can accomplish in the field of repair, but usually know nothing about the calibration aspects, and have been known to do more harm than good in seconds. Permanently, until remedied by a truly capable CRT pro.

If you can't find anyone, please consider forming a tour and flying me in. These are my specialty and I am totally dedicated to them. An alternative is getting me on the phone, where I can hold your hand during some stuff that's simple for me, but challenging bordering on dangerous, in the hands of a newbie.

Call me and we can spend a couple of minutes on the phone, at least getting you situated properly in this endeavor.

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post #7744 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 09:21 AM
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Very few calibrators work on CRT anymore. If you can't find one with a national reputation who still does work on them, DO NOT settle for a local repair tech unless he is highly unusual in his talents and is known on the net for being CRT capable as well as repair capable. Repair techs are incredibly valuable for what they can accomplish in the field of repair, but usually know nothing about the calibration aspects, and have been known to do more harm than good in seconds. Permanently, until remedied by a truly capable CRT pro.

If you can't find anyone, please consider forming a tour and flying me in. These are my specialty and I am totally dedicated to them. An alternative is getting me on the phone, where I can hold your hand during some stuff that's simple for me, but challenging bordering on dangerous, in the hands of a newbie.

Call me and we can spend a couple of minutes on the phone, at least getting you situated properly in this endeavor.

b
Thanks for the information and the offer.

I just pulled out my old directions for the 56 point convergence and did that. Wasn't too far off and brought back memories!

For now that will have to do since I don't want to open the set up myself, even with phone help, especially since the HD picture is really excellent in it's current state. Looks the same, if not better, than any LCD or Plasma I've seen.
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post #7745 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 09:23 AM
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Depends on whether it goes under an IC or just normal resistors etc. I usually undo one end of the affected components and clean under them with alcohol and either a qtip or paper towels. Paper towels are a lot more absorbent than qtips.

Then I resolder that one end back in place and try it out.

If it's gone under one of those ICs with copious numbers of legs, I give up right there.

b
Mr. Bob,

Thank you so much for you assistance & suggestions. I finally got a chance to pop the front panel off and clean the affected areas with 99% alcohol. For the cost of a few minutes of my time, a bottle of alcohol, and a dozen or so q-tips, the TV is back in business at 1080i!

I've got the next week off from work, so I'm now off to find more details on preventing future coolant problems and correcting the overscan issue that the TV clearly exhibits.

Thanks again, hope you have a wonderful holiday!

-Bob
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post #7746 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RPTVFan View Post

Thanks for the information and the offer.

I just pulled out my old directions for the 56 point convergence and did that. Wasn't too far off and brought back memories!

For now that will have to do since I don't want to open the set up myself, even with phone help, especially since the HD picture is really excellent in it's current state. Looks the same, if not better, than any LCD or Plasma I've seen.

Is your light path crystal clear? Or does it have years' worth of blanketing of dust, soot, smoke and grit on it, which happens naturally despite our best house cleaning efforts, due to the use of 30KV in CRT systems? That high voltage really does a number on the delicate optical surfaces in there.

If not, your pic does not have a chance of standing up against fixed pixel because your dynamic punch is being totally compromised. If its optics have not been cleaned reasonably recently, what you are seeing is only a fraction of what it should be, in terms of its dynamic punch.

And to be completely crystal clear, Tosh's need the additional 6 surfaces (of the 28 total in there) cleaned periodically that only the deeper optics cleaning can get to.

Be VERY careful about how you do that. Those surfaces are plastic and very fragile. They scratch instantly and indelibly, when done without the proper practices and procedures.


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post #7747 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 11:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SoloTSi97 View Post

Mr. Bob,

I've got the next week off from work, so I'm now off to find more details on preventing future coolant problems and correcting the overscan issue that the TV clearly exhibits.

-Bob


I have been asked by someone I phone coached for a couple of hours who did marvelously at what I coached him on, to please say something about doing it yourself.

With the best of intentions, he got himself in over his head after that and now his picture has been compromised. He had told me he had the service manual and would be fine, so I wished him well. Next I heard he had copied down the originating values improperly and had done some major damage to the look of his pic when doing the overscan reduction op on his own. He now blames me for not warning him adequately about what could happen on your own, without having professional help with it.

This would not have happened on my watch. If he had copied things down correctly and had still had me on that phone line as he had kept proceeding into unknown territory, that would not have happened. I can only do so much as a coach, after which an owner's own personal capabilities and experience have to kick in and take over. Even with improperly copied down starting points, his chances of getting his original picture back once he did screw up, woulda been far better with the right help - help that came from years of experience in doing these things.

So he's right. I clearly did not warn him adequately enough.

Service menus can be very cryptic and non-self explanatory, and there are no rules about what gets mentioned in them and what doesn't (have never yet seen the need for optics cleaning, due to the high voltage, be mentioned in one, yet that op is critical to superb viewing of CRT triple gun).

Yet they are also very powerful. They make or break your picture.

Getting into service menu - on any brand - can get you in over your head in minutes, if not seconds. It is not hard at all to paint yourself into a corner that it might be very expensive getting out of.

You've been warned.

Happy holidays to you too, and don't screw things up!



b

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post #7748 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 07:20 PM
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Bob,

I've seen you reference Craig Rounds anti-EE mod again, and it has me itching... I found his original writeup for Mits/Sony here:

http://www.cir-engineering.com/white....htm#Equipment

Now, I see in the Pioneer schematics that the same chip is used, but I also see that the three boards have a slightly more elaborate filter setup.

Has anyone done the EE procedure on a Pioneer Elite? Is it even necessary?

Very curious...

Joe
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post #7749 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 08:14 PM - Thread Starter
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The Pioneer CRTs have a very effective setup in the sm that takes care of ee well enough for me, much better than the other 2 brands.

All you have to do is almost max out your Detail reg, then work with the Sharpness reg till you have it right, using test patterns if you need them or regular video material if you don't. I use regular video material myself, usually faces and other vertical lines/curves -

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post #7750 of 12490 Old 12-26-2010, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Remembering of course that all HD in that area - non-structure area - is built upon the STD foundation, ie. the S video platform, starting with SD material and test patterns -

b

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post #7751 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RPTVFan View Post

Here is my question......I would like to get the Toshiba professionally calibrated, but since RPTVs are not "in" who would I contact here in NJ? Is there a group or society?

Dan Miller of Lion AV, services NJ. And they also are experienced CRT RPTV's, so you may want to send them a email.

http://www.lionav.com/services.php

http://www.lionav.com/mdanmiller.php


You can also ask that question this thread, by listing what TV you have and what you want done, to see if anyone is planing to be in your area.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...586330&page=61
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post #7752 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 07:22 AM
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Dan Miller of Lion AV, services NJ. And they also are experienced CRT RPTV's, so you may want to send them a email.

http://www.lionav.com/services.php

http://www.lionav.com/mdanmiller.php


You can also ask that question this thread, by listing what TV you have and what you want done, to see if anyone is planing to be in your area.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...586330&page=61

Thanks!
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post #7753 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 10:49 AM
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Hi everyone. I had posted on this thread a couple weeks ago that I picked up a Mits 55" ws-55313 for 100$ (actually paid 25$ after selling my broken plasma ). Well I took the screen off to clean the mirror and lenses WOW were they dirty! 7 years and never cleaned. 1st the mirror. It was very dirty almost greasy. Took about 4 rounds of cleaning to get it streak free and perfectly clean. It is a glass mirror so I wasnt too worried. Next was the lenses. They were also very dusty and had a sticky feel to them. Cleaned them very carefully with Monster screen cleaner (which doesnt run as its a little bit thicker) and paper towels as Mr Bob recommends. Got the lenses wet to free up the dust and then just went from the back to the front rolling the paper towel towards me to get the major scum off. Then I just breathe hard on the lens to get a little fog and wiped it off with the paper towel. Not too hard and worked great.

Holy crap what a difference! This set actually looks better than my Panny Plasma that it replaced. I was amazed. If people knew that there TV's were just dirty and not old and worn out I bet they would'nt be getting rid of them so cheap and replacing them with something that has an inferior picture in most cases.

Plasma 800$ / RPTV 25$
Welcome 25$ RPTV
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post #7754 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 11:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Couldn'ta said it better myself! Awesome!



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post #7755 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 01:14 PM
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This thread is so enlightening. I thought is was only me who really felt that a good RPTV was a better, smoother and cleaner picture then the latest fixed pixel. Especially the video noise and smooth motion. I have a Mits w55809. Picked up cheap and have been enjoying it. I LOVE to tinker ,carefully, as I can be a worrier about messing things up. I have bought a service manual. When I got the tv all looked pretty good except a slight pink hue over the whole picture except for 6"'s on each side. The pink was there with the color saturation fully down also. I ventured into the service menu and turned down the values in the red cutoffs and high's. That worked quite well. My concern is are there values that can hurt the tv and also what do the Picture knobs do for the 3 colors behind the front panels do? Still sometimes a see a slight pink shadow emitting from a black to white contract image, usually emitting out to the right side. It is not from the convergence though. I just really enjoy this TV and would like to somewhat optimize it with out screwing anything up. Thanks, Tim
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post #7756 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 02:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tw557 View Post

This thread is so enlightening. I thought is was only me who really felt that a good RPTV was a better, smoother and cleaner picture then the latest fixed pixel. Especially the video noise and smooth motion. I have a Mits w55809. Picked up cheap and have been enjoying it. I LOVE to tinker ,carefully, as I can be a worrier about messing things up. I have bought a service manual. When I got the tv all looked pretty good except a slight pink hue over the whole picture except for 6"'s on each side. The pink was there with the color saturation fully down also.

Indicates grayscale and not color decoding.

Quote:
I ventured into the service menu and turned down the values in the red cutoffs and high's. That worked quite well. My concern is are there values that can hurt the tv and also what do the Picture knobs do for the 3 colors behind the front panels do?

Stay away from those trimpots behind the front panel, they are the biasing levels for your guns, and are usually set perfectly at the factory. They usually don't drift. Unless you are determined to discover exactly how to do that alignment properly, leave it alone. Chances are you will only screw things up if you change any of those AT ALL. They are very, very sensitive.

And yes there are values that can screw things up. Don't push it and experiment, just keep what you feel a need to do at the very minimum, stay conservative whenever possible. And if there's anything you don't know the answer to, it's much better to ask someone in the know than to shoot from the hip and see what happens. These are VERY sensitive sets, and the quickest way to screwing them up is a careless, thoughtless laize-faire attitude. Which of course you don't have, or you wouldn't be here!



Quote:
Still sometimes a see a slight pink shadow emitting from a black to white contract image, usually emitting out to the right side. It is not from the convergence though. I just really enjoy this TV and would like to somewhat optimize it with out screwing anything up. Thanks, Tim

Where do you have your Contrast set? Sounds like it's too high. Should be midpoint of max, which for a Mit, where the bar graph is slewed, is 35-40% up from minimum.


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post #7757 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 06:10 PM
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Remembering of course that all HD in that area - non-structure area - is built upon the STD foundation, ie. the S video platform, starting with SD material and test patterns -

b

Thanks, Bob. The detail and sharp regs appear to run from -128 to +128. When you say you crank the detail up...do you mean something like 90-100? I noted the previous detail setting on both sets started at -50, so I guess that is factory default?

Joe
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post #7758 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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I had to have the power supply changed a year ago and at that time I mentioned to the service guy about the pink hue. He did turn the red "picture" trim pot a little. it did help with the pink but it might have then then added a little of this pink right shadow along side of a black object with a white background. I have the contrast a little above center but from center to full is very little affect. the whites are a little blaring to be honest. I assume the pink hue must be some kind of burn in since the 6" sides almost have no pink hue. Only noticeable on pure white scenes. At one point I raised the blue and green numbers to combat the pink. Then I noticed a green or blue shadow along objects.
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post #7759 of 12490 Old 12-27-2010, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beazalbob69 View Post

If people knew that there TV's were just dirty and not old and worn out I bet they would'nt be getting rid of them so cheap and replacing them with something that has an inferior picture in most cases.

Yes, well, we've been saying that for a while now.
Glad you were able to take advantage of the situation, though.
Enjoy your "new" set.

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #7760 of 12490 Old 12-28-2010, 07:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jgruessing68 View Post
Thanks, Bob. The detail and sharp regs appear to run from -128 to +128. When you say you crank the detail up...do you mean something like 90-100? I noted the previous detail setting on both sets started at -50, so I guess that is factory default?

Joe
Yes, 90-100. I usually go to +120 with it. Factory default on these 2 has been known to cause truly abysmal edge rendition, bordering on the level of bad, overenhanced animation quality when applied to true HD on these Pioneers.

Play with it and you'll see that no bad things happen when you crank it up to almost max - I stay away from max at all times on pretty much anything, unless absolutely needed.

SM Sharpness is another matter. That's where the ee - edge enhancement - kicks in. You have to find that delicate balance between too much and too little.

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post #7761 of 12490 Old 12-28-2010, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tw557 View Post
I had to have the power supply changed a year ago and at that time I mentioned to the service guy about the pink hue. He did turn the red "picture" trim pot a little. it did help with the pink but it might have then then added a little of this pink right shadow along side of a black object with a white background. I have the contrast a little above center but from center to full is very little affect. the whites are a little blaring to be honest. I assume the pink hue must be some kind of burn in since the 6" sides almost have no pink hue. Only noticeable on pure white scenes. At one point I raised the blue and green numbers to combat the pink. Then I noticed a green or blue shadow along objects.
On a Mit, midpoint in your Contrast bargraph is already 80-90% up. That's why you get very little change in overall light level when going all the rest of the way up. If you're a little over halfway up on the bargraph, you're at 90% up. Very bad, a very non-videophile practice. Pre-ages your guns, makes the grayscale slewed, softens your focus and causes "bleeding" of your strongest color - which in your case is obviously the red - to the right of where it should be.

As I said earlier, actual midpoint of the Contrast bargraph for a Mit is only 35-40% up from minimum. That's where videophiles run it, where everything is well within linear operating range. 90% up is pushing things way out of linear operating range.

Pink in the center but not the sides indicates screenburn on the green gun in the 4x3 section. Your green has aged faster than your red and blue, in that area. If you look straight into the guns/lenses with a flashlight while your set is off, you'll probably see a stronger aging footprint on the green CRT face than on the other 2.

The red Screen trimpot changes the red only in the darks. It has very little effect on the whites, virtually none at all.

The Screen trimpots on a Mit are set to a specified, set voltage at a test point on their CRT socket boards. As (again) I said above, they usually never need to be changed on a Mit, the change you were looking for should have been done only at the red cutoff regs in the service menu. Once you make that kind of change in the position of your Screen trimpots, a whole fresh grayscale alignment can sometimes be needed, with all the interactivities in there among the whites and the blacks, the lights and the darks. Perhaps your tech got lucky this time...

Having a pink grayscale - pink on b/w material - is very typical of a Mit factory aligned unit. I correct for that all the time. The good news is that once corrected, they track grayscale like a velvet glove.


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post #7762 of 12490 Old 12-28-2010, 08:00 AM
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Getting into service menu - on any brand - can get you in over your head in minutes, if not seconds. It is not hard at all to paint yourself into a corner that it might be very expensive getting out of.

You've been warned.

Happy holidays to you too, and don't screw things up!



b

Understood, and thank you for the warning. I found some information elsewhere on the 'net about getting into the service menu and fiddling with stuff (with specific instructions and also lots of warnings about screwing stuff up).

Since the overscan is really only a problem at 480p (i.e., DVD player), and not at 1080i, my solution for now is simply going to be to use some Christmas gift cards and buy a BluRay player to avoid 480p.

To be perfectly honest, having taken the set apart and cleaning 9ish years of stuff off the lenses and mirror, then performing the multi-point convergence, it looks GREAT now to my eyes.

If you do ever find yourself in/around Ohio, I'd love to have you work your magic, though. Unless, of course, someone knows of a capable tech in the SW Ohio area ...

Thanks again!

-Bob
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post #7763 of 12490 Old 12-28-2010, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Send me your contact info and I'll flag it for your home town. Send privately please, call or email me.

Phone coaching is still available, till then. It is very powerful -



b

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post #7764 of 12490 Old 12-31-2010, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Send me your contact info and I'll flag it for your home town. Send privately please, call or email me.

Phone coaching is still available, till then. It is very powerful -



b

I never really post here as I am in the Hitachi thread. I do want to say something though. I have utilized Mr. Bob's phone consults to success. The reason I think it has worked out for me is because I listened to what he told me, did the work with him on the phone as I went, and did not venture past that point. Sure I have done a lot of work on my own too but we all know when we are past that safe point of our knowledge and abilities and need help.

My issue was Grayscale. I had really screwed it up on my own. I did the consult and Mr. Bob was able to get me close to where I need to be. When I say close I mean a causal watcher of my set will never know that its slightly off. (At least in my crazy mind of tweaking its off. May be right on)

If any of you have messed with grayscale you know that it might be considered magic for a Calibrator to get you that close over the phone. So I guess what I'm saying is that the phone consults are worth it and then some but they cant keep you from screwing it up yourself. That grayscale help came 2 years ago and I have not had to touch it since then for that. I will be putting a meter on it soon just for kicks but for PQ only we nuts would not think this sets pic is right on.
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post #7765 of 12490 Old 01-01-2011, 01:27 PM
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Hi Robert it is good to see you are still supporting the CRTs. I have a 65HDX82. It was ISF calibrated over 5 years ago. It has not been cleaned for dust on the inside in several years. I would like to do this myself but I cannot find any of the old tutorials online. Can you give me some advise in this area? Thanks, Brian

One more thing and this is a big one..... I am building a HTPC. I want to playback blu ray discs on my RPTV. Is this possible? I think my DVI is HDCP compliant but it is only 720p.
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post #7766 of 12490 Old 01-02-2011, 12:52 AM
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Thanks, Bob. The detail and sharp regs appear to run from -128 to +128. When you say you crank the detail up...do you mean something like 90-100? I noted the previous detail setting on both sets started at -50, so I guess that is factory default?

Joe
I wrote about my experience with detail, sharpness and STD mode here you may find this intresting. BTW this applies to my PRO-730HDi.
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post #7767 of 12490 Old 01-02-2011, 01:30 AM
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Originally Posted by gplracer View Post

One more thing and this is a big one..... I am building a HTPC. I want to playback blu ray discs on my RPTV. Is this possible? I think my DVI is HDCP compliant but it is only 720p.
For anything in HD, the 65HDX82 is actually a 1080i set, not a 720p set. So anything sent over DVI, would need to be sent as either 480i, 480p or 1080i.
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post #7768 of 12490 Old 01-02-2011, 06:38 AM
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I realize that the signal would be 1080i. I enjoy 1080i now so it is not so bad. I just worry that all things considered I am going to have some issues. I have read online that many people have issues with the dvi connection. I starting to hate HDCP more and more. My motherboard for my HTPC comes in on Tuesday. I will give it a try but I am almost to the point that it might be best to sell my loved RPTV while it still works and use that money to to toward a dlp, plasma, or lcd. This is all depressing!!!!

I figure my best option is this:
1. Buy a new receiver and run hdmi out to the receiver. Then I get DTS-HD.
2. Run either component or HDMI to DVI out to the tv. (Is this possible? Can I use)

If those options do not work I may have to buy a new tv.
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post #7769 of 12490 Old 01-02-2011, 08:25 AM - Thread Starter
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What's all this concern about DVI/HDMI??? You don't need it for true 1080i HD on CRT!

This info has been readily available for years.

At the risk of repeating myself: (again)


Blurays play perfectly fine using component only, from your BDP straight to your CRT. Component is by far the best way to hook that up. And the precision of the delivery is absolutely stunning. See the cover pic of my website for just one example.

If you want to do upconversion of your SD DVD library, get an HD Fury II or III, and output the HDMI from your bluray player into the Fury then out of it and into your component inputs.

YOU DON'T NEED TO BUY NEW TO GET HDMI capability for your CRT RPTV, NO MATTER WHAT THE BRAND!

And you don't need HDMI anyway for HD on your set, as long as your 1080i source puts out true HD on component (and it does). This covers Bluray and HD DVD discs, satellite HD, cable HD, DVHS HD, OTA HD, and any other true 1080i HD. Is there any other kind of source to even consider? If so, if I have forgotten one, please add it! It'll work on component.

1080p is completely unneeded when you have true 1080i HD on your CRT set, and just gets in the way of your scintillating HD experience when you consider the needed upconversions on the new displays, where some brands do it right and some really schlocky, and as such 1080p carries some very real limitations that1080i doesn't have.

At the risk of repeating the same thing I started out saying over 4 years ago in the very first post of this thread (please, go back and check it out!) and have been repeating ever since:

YOU DON'T NEED TO BUY NEW IF YOU HAVE A CRT RPTV.


b

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post #7770 of 12490 Old 01-02-2011, 08:34 AM - Thread Starter
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This is the kind of fidelity you have every right to expect of your CRT RPTV using component on your 1080i HD. It is from page 203 of this very thread. And there are other superb screenshots on other pages of this thread, and others.

YOU DON'T NEED A NEW SET. Your set just needs the touch of the master's hand. It has the capability of this kind of perfromance in it right now, as we speak.




Here it is, from page 203:


Except for simple passive mechanical switching, component fed straight to display from Dish VIP 622 DVR.

No HDMI or HD Fury is involved in these pix, nor any scaler of any kind. Nothing is being used to alter these pix. What you see is what you get. They are completely component to component, device to display, unimpeded and unchanged.

These are photographs personally taken by me and uploaded via www.imageshack.us, they are not screengrabs of any kind. Scroll down. I am just itching to make your set look like this.



b











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