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post #9001 of 12493 Old 07-07-2011, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Um, not exactly.

Actually that avatar photo is from my brother's wedding, about 15 years ago. The hair color has changed, but of course nothing else has...!



b

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post #9002 of 12493 Old 07-07-2011, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post

That's great! I never knew you had a YouTube channel. Is that your 73" Mitt in the background of the optics cleaning video?

Yup. That's my tricked out, pimped out baby! Available for anyone on this thread to watch for awhile, next time you're in my area! Give me a call, bring over your best bluray or regular DVD - I've got my HD Fury II all hooked up and ready to go at all times - and let's party! Will be glad to play all the juicy parts for you.

Quote:


Oh, and if you're looking for a site that is good for larger uploads, I've used a site called MultiUpload. They've got fast transfer speed with no wait time. They'll even upload your file (if you want) to a handful of other sites in case theirs does get bogged down.

Awesome! Hope to avail myself of that resource soon. Will it house videos that can then be put up on youtube, can owners shoot their testimonials and store them there so I can get to them and transfer them to my youtube library?

b

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post #9003 of 12493 Old 07-07-2011, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

... The hair color has changed, but of course nothing else has...!



b

Comn' Bob... there is always "Just for Men" ... I use it in a natural gray tone

I checked the beginning of one of them, my connection for some reason was lagging too much last night... Looking good Bob.

"Everybody is a genius. But if you judge a fish by its ability to climb a tree, it will live its whole life believing that it is stupid."
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post #9004 of 12493 Old 07-07-2011, 01:11 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Yup. That's my tricked out, pimped out baby! Available for anyone on this thread to watch for awhile, next time you're in my area! Give me a call, bring over your best bluray or regular DVD - I've got my HD Fury II all hooked up and ready to go at all times - and let's party! Will be glad to play all the juicy parts for you.

I'll keep that in mind if we ever head out to California .

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Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Awesome! Hope to avail myself of that resource soon. Will it house videos that can then be put up on youtube, can owners shoot their testimonials and store them there so I can get to them and transfer them to my youtube library?

b

It looks like it will upload any format you throw at it. It's just a general upload site. I don't know what the size restriction is though (or if they have one). I just know that while SkyDrive gives you a ton of space, the size restriction per file is very small, so I uploaded my custom HTC Diamond ROMs to MultiUpload (which are at least 100MB), which I heard about there on PPCGeeks (if you've got a smartphone or Windows Mobile handheld, it's a great site to tweak and do interesting things to your device), as MultiUpload was used by a few other chefs there, and I remember clicking the download link and saying, "I've never downloaded from here before", and later, "wow, that was really fast and "wait time" free".

Hopefully that works out for you.

Oh also, I haven't gotten to that focus adjustment yet, but I hope to definetly have a look at that today or later in the week.

Thanks.

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post #9005 of 12493 Old 07-07-2011, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Actually that avatar photo is from my brother's wedding, about 15 years ago. The hair color has changed, but of course nothing else has...!



b

You just need to get yourself calibrated. Bob.
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post #9006 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

You just need to get yourself calibrated. Bob.

Are you suggesting his grayscale has drifted over time?

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #9007 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 07:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

Are you suggesting his grayscale has drifted over time?

Last:

I think you overscanned my last remark. I meant nothing of the sort. On the contrary, I think Bob's beginning to bloom.

Great video on optics cleaning, Bob. Your intelligence, expertise, and refinement all come through.
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post #9008 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 08:03 AM
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Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #9009 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I think that middle emoticon was in response to "refinement"...



But thanks, feedback is very important and I do invite it -



b

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post #9010 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 08:25 AM
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Came across your YouTube vids last night, Bob, via the Apple TV YouTube app. Very cool - look forward to more.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

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post #9011 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 09:27 AM
 
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Update time again.

Well, I took the front panel off again last night and thought I'd try to work on those focus knobs a little bit. It wasn't until both panels were off that I remembered that I'd be needing individual red, green, and blue test patterns. I just took my 4:3 white grid and used MS paint to "paint" the lines red, green, and blue into three separate files which I sent back to the Xbox. I marked where I started and then opened the files on the Xbox, zoomed in, and got to adjusting. For the record, I noticed that the knobs are far more loose than they look, but it was surprisingly easy to adjust. I was done with all the colors in just a few minutes. I went back in afterward to work on convergence again (since the adjustment threw things off a bit), and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was slightly easier and that at least something looked a little sharper. The edges are still a little blurry (is there any way to tweak this specifically?), but certainly not worse than before.

Thanks for the tip!

- 2 Bunny
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post #9012 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by superleo View Post
I'm a lurker!!!

I followed and read the thread for month before I jumped in.

LONG LIVED CRT RP - for another 300 pages!
I remember reading the first post on the day Bob started the thread. My set was about a year old, purchased in the summer of 2005 from Circuit City, as they were clearing out CRT RPs. Got a great deal on it.

I had to purchase it on a little faith, for every CRT-RP on the showroom floor at CC was way out of convergence. All of their pictures were fuzzy and it was no wonder they couldn't (or didn't want to) sell them.

I had seen my Panasonic model in another store, a few months earlier, properly set up. It was sitting next to a 2005 model LCD, and the picture on the Panny blew the LCD away.

I hadn't forgotten how great it looked, so when CC offered me one at a nice discount, new in the box, I snapped it up. Never regretted it.
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post #9013 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 10:32 AM - Thread Starter
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That's exactly why in 2001 I ordered my 65" Panny CRT, even older than yours, online without even needing to see it in action. I knew what these babies have been capable of all along!



b

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post #9014 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 10:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post
Update time again.

Well, I took the front panel off again last night and thought I'd try to work on those focus knobs a little bit. It wasn't until both panels were off that I remembered that I'd be needing individual red, green, and blue test patterns. I just took my 4:3 white grid and used MS paint to "paint" the lines red, green, and blue into three separate files which I sent back to the Xbox. I marked where I started and then opened the files on the Xbox, zoomed in, and got to adjusting. For the record, I noticed that the knobs are far more loose than they look, but it was surprisingly easy to adjust. I was done with all the colors in just a few minutes. I went back in afterward to work on convergence again (since the adjustment threw things off a bit), and was pleasantly surprised to find that it was slightly easier and that at least something looked a little sharper. The edges are still a little blurry (is there any way to tweak this specifically?), but certainly not worse than before.

Thanks for the tip!

- 2 Bunny
Well there are 2 types of focusing to do, on 3 colors each. That's 6 focusses. If you have not done the Cantilever Technique yet, which covers getting the optical/mechanical focusing done, that's 3 focusses that have not been dialed in yet.

You can always call me and have a phone session on these kinds of things. I would not mind laying it out for you in a couple of minutes on the phone, it just takes a lot longer to do it online, in these threads. Some things I charge for being on the phone, some not. This would be a not.

You'd have to be a quick study, tho!



b

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post #9015 of 12493 Old 07-08-2011, 11:01 PM
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Nice Youtube channel Bob. I subbed to ya and got you added as a friend. =D

I did some work on my Hitachi 51F59A. Cleaned the lens, mirror, and both sides of the screen even though I just did it about 4 months ago. Damn there sure is a lot of dust floating around there. I'm gonna have to take a can of air to the insides at some point I'm sure.

I also touched up the convergence with the service menu button mode. I cycled the background until I could display the convergence grid from the AVS HD 709 calibration package thing (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=948496) through my HTPC. Though near the extreme edges I couldn't get it real well. The Blue and Red lines seem to get too thick. :/

Next I played with my HTPC and ATI software and re-adjusted the overscan compensation. Playing around with ATI Catalyst I saw a bunch of Dynamic Contrast, Adjust Skin tone, de-noise, and other post processing effects that I hadn't noticed before. I turned off a lot of those.

Now my display looks even better.

There's nothing like some free DIY tweaks and a little bit of time to keep it looking good and fresh.

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post #9016 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 04:14 AM
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I did a bit of cable management during the night...


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post #9017 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

I am working on a www.youtube.com video about this. My account there on youtube is "mrbobbigscreen".

You should add this to your sig. I couldn't find it without the account name, and I almost missed it in this post.

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #9018 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 08:43 AM
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I've been salivating to have the tuneup that Mr. Bob can do. If we can get a few folks to share his travel expenses, we can put together a tour for him. I'm thinking late August/September. Anybody interested?? He can do anything from a $150 Mits optics cleaning to a fullblown calibration for any style display.
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post #9019 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I believe we're talking about Allentown PA, N of Philly, but anywhere in that NW area of the country can be included, plus stops along the way. On my Twin Cities tour, a couple of owners in Chicago had me stop by after the Minn/St. Paul owners, and on the way back I did one in St. Louis.

So don't be shy. Climb on board. If just for an optics cleaning, no problem as long as you're chipping in on the travel expenses. The Twin Cities guys only had to come up with $78.50 each for that!

If you have an older CRT RPTV you need me, and badly. If there's no screenburn on it, I can make it look better than new in an afternoon.

If you have a brand new flat panel that has had its requisite 100-150 hours of new-display burn-in by now, it's ready.

If you have a Pioneer Elite 510/610/710 or a 520/620/720 whose power supply board is vertically mounted - or one of their non-Elite brothers - I can do the needed resoldering op straight out of the starting gate and get that out of the way. Then we can tear into really spiffing up your picture, including getting rid of that dimness that all the Pioneer Elites and non-Elites had after 10 years or so of use. It can be realigned to perfect shadow detail at User centerpoint for brilliant viewing again, alive with dynamic punch. No extra charge for this service, it's included in the basic calibration package, I throw it in for free.

The overscan reduction we all crave is there too, both kinds are available in my calibrations - service menu only or the shimming operation plus service menu version.

It's all there, in my arsenal and ready to go. No need to buy new, just turn me loose on your "older" (HA!) ageless CRT RPTV and sit back. You're in for an eyeful!

Just contact Mindless directly and cc me as well, by regular contact means, no pm's please.



b

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post #9020 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post
You should add this to your sig. I couldn't find it without the account name, and I almost missed it in this post.
Excellent idea! Did it -



b

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post #9021 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 06:53 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post

I did a bit of cable management during the night...

Do I see Microsoft Kinect and PlayStation Move on that telly there (by the way, how much flat space does that Hitachi have on the top, just out of curiosity?)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Well there are 2 types of focusing to do, on 3 colors each. That's 6 focusses. If you have not done the Cantilever Technique yet, which covers getting the optical/mechanical focusing done, that's 3 focusses that have not been dialed in yet.

You can always call me and have a phone session on these kinds of things. I would not mind laying it out for you in a couple of minutes on the phone, it just takes a lot longer to do it online, in these threads. Some things I charge for being on the phone, some not. This would be a not.

You'd have to be a quick study, tho!



b

So you're saying I should look at the mechanical focus too?

If so, how should I go about doing that?

Also, (and I know this might be a bit off topic from what the rest of the post was talking about) do you have any game consoles plugged up to your Mitt (or any of your sets)? Just curious ☺...

- 2 Bunny
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post #9022 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post

Do I see Microsoft Kinect and PlayStation Move on that telly there (by the way, how much flat space does that Hitachi have on the top, just out of curiosity?)?

Yeah I got both for the family for Xmas. They've barely been used... but we don't have any other games than what came with them. Maybe we should hit up Blockbuster.

There's really no flat space. The Kinect and Move barely sit on there. Here's a pic (yes it needs a good dusting):


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post #9023 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 07:39 PM
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Anywhere to get service manuals for these. I still can't get convergence at 480p, not even close. My whole setting is crap.



Nevermind found it on the wayback machine.
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post #9024 of 12493 Old 07-09-2011, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

Anywhere to get service manuals for these. I still can't get convergence at 480p, not even close. My whole setting is crap.

Please define "these."
And it takes time and practice, no matter what.

Downloadable FREE demo discs:
http://www.avsforum.com/t/1475769/de...ently-authored 

Did you really need to quote that entire post in your reply?
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post #9025 of 12493 Old 07-10-2011, 11:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 Bunny View Post


So you're saying I should look at the mechanical focus too?

Yes. By using the Cantilever technique for all my focusing, whether front projection or rear projection, I have found over the years that most CRT RPTVs are badly focused mechanically out of the box on 2 of their 3 lenses, and often on all 3. Sony is the only exception - they are the only brand that do it right mechanically - and electrostatically, all 6 focuses - every time. All my sets have always needed the Cantilever Technique to get it right, even back on my first big screen, my 60" Mit 4x3, long before HD.

Which was where I realized that the common focusing techniques were really not cutting it, and I had to find some other way. That's where I came up with the Cantilever Technique.

Quote:
If so, how should I go about doing that?

Use moving the screen in and out - away from, then towards the mirror, in and out - to check the focus of the lenses and do your double-checks. Do this rather than moving the lenses, eyeballing your changes and thus shooting in the dark, destroying your starting point each time in the process. Any way you do it, always be sure and mark your starting point before changing anything.

Doing it the first way allows you to keep your focus as it is at each lens during your initial focus checks, in case it's already perfect there. It also allows you to keep getting it tighter and tighter, till it won't get any tighter, no matter how many double-checks you throw at it, using the actual throw distance - the distance from your screen to your actual CRT faces - as your guide.

Quote:
Also, (and I know this might be a bit off topic from what the rest of the post was talking about) do you have any game consoles plugged up to your Mitt (or any of your sets)? Just curious ☺...

- 2 Bunny

No, just a Dish DVR, my Panny Bluray - all Pannys I have tested are capable of blacker than black, which I cannot say for Sony's BDPs/PS3s, which don't put out btb on component, only on HDMI - and an HD Fury II taking the HDMI signal into my display via an alternate component input.

Currently I have a Moome gamma bump box in there too, with a requisite RGB->component transcoder box because the Moome box only puts out RGB. But no, no gaming at all.

b

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post #9026 of 12493 Old 07-10-2011, 12:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Verge2 View Post

Anywhere to get service manuals for these. I still can't get convergence at 480p, not even close. My whole setting is crap.

Nevermind found it on the wayback machine.

Did you find the service manual? If so are you making improvements?

Keep in mind that service manuals NEVER include the fine points of dialing in your convergence to the max. They only tell you the mechanics of how to get in and play around with it, and need I say that a little information can be a very bad thing? You get just enough info to very quickly paint yourself into a corner you can't get out of, on many brands.

I was castigated recently by someone who did a paid phone session with me for 2 hours, on optics cleaning and then on focusing, and then decided he'd paid enough and wanted to go it alone for the rest of the calibration, which at that point was then going to be geometry and convergence. OK. I let him go.

When things went awry in there for him later, he got back to me and told me he blamed me for not warning him off in a stronger manner. I felt bad, but what could I do? No I had not warned him off. That's really not my responsibility. Owners generally find me in these threads, and there are many warnings in these threads about how to handle this op correctly. Even then it's not really my responsibility. It's the owner's. The manufacturers put in the necessity for service codes - OBVIOUSLY - to keep normal people out of there. Such codes are only supposed to be known to service repair techs and calibrators, so amateurs would not get in there and screw things up, as happened many many times in the early days of service codes. Now that the internet is making those codes more than available to unqualified owners because hotshots can now share them so readily on the internet once they themselves have learned them, it's a free for all.

Fact is, such owners are taking the lives of their sets in their hands by circumventing the manufacturers' wishes/intentions and so using such codes.

So I am taking his lead now, and warning you off. Don't get in over your head, or I may have to save your bacon and charge you extra for doing so. And it may have to be on location, at your set, in your town, in your home.

Service manuals don't cover the fine points of geometry and convergence. Far from it. They only give you a rough idea of how things work in there.

Beyond the capacity for disaster, keep in mind that certain brands have certain ways of dialing it in the max, other brands have other ways. I have seen no 2 brands do it exactly the same way, when it gets right down to maximzing the potential of your display. For that you need to hire or at the very least pick the brain of someone who's been there/done that dozens of times and has discovered all the unique little ins and outs and nooks and crannies of it all. And each brand has its own unique set of them, so the calibrator you use has to be versed on all of them, especially yours. Don't even think about just calling in a local service repair technician. Armed with the service entry codes, he can do more harm than good in minutes, and can paint YOU into a corner he won't be able to pull your set out of.

And your calibrator can't just be ISF Certified. ISF does not teach geometry and convergence. Or focusing, or scheimpflug, or astigmatism, or optics cleaning, or overscan reduction...

You need to find a qualified CRT Calibrator. Even if you have to fly one in. We are few and far between anymore.



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post #9027 of 12493 Old 07-10-2011, 04:20 PM
 
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Originally Posted by |Tch0rT| View Post

Yeah I got both for the family for Xmas. They've barely been used... but we don't have any other games than what came with them. Maybe we should hit up Blockbuster.

There's really no flat space. The Kinect and Move barely sit on there. Here's a pic (yes it needs a good dusting):

That's interesting. From the picture, it looks like it starts with an inch or two of flat space, then a drop, then a few more inches of flat space before it just starts "falling back" into oblivion. That was one of the things we were originally concerned about when we were looking for a set, since we didn't really have the space for a stand in our television corner. I had seen side shots of a lot of the Mitts and seen that they were like a solid rectangle. The one we ended up with (just a li'l guy - 48"er) was a bit of an oddball from the typical 55 or 65"er and has maybe ten inches of flat space on the top, and then it abruptly falls a few inches, then just goes to a slanted material that houses the mirror unlike its larger screen size counterparts.

I've always wondered if having an abruptly slanted back from the very top and no flat space on the top makes it look less "old" and more flat than it really is. Devious . Maybe I'm reading too much into it ...

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Yes. By using the Cantilever technique for all my focusing, whether front projection or rear projection, I have found over the years that most CRT RPTVs are badly focused mechanically out of the box on 2 of their 3 lenses, and often on all 3. Sony is the only exception - they are the only brand that do it right mechanically - and electrostatically, all 6 focuses - every time. All my sets have always needed the Cantilever Technique to get it right, even back on my first big screen, my 60" Mit 4x3, long before HD.

Dang, they really cut corners back at the Mitt factory. They couldn't calibrate it right, so they just cut off the image, and they can't focus it mechanically correctly (mechanical focus can't really "drift", can it?), so they just "eyeball" it and call it good. I guess that's what makes CRT rear projection (retail price usually of no more than four digits) is different from those legit CRT Projectors (where the retail cost was 10-40k according to CurtPalme) .

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Which was where I realized that the common focusing techniques were really not cutting it, and I had to find some other way. That's where I came up with the Cantilever Technique.



Use moving the screen in and out - away from, then towards the mirror, in and out - to check the focus of the lenses and do your double-checks. Do this rather than moving the lenses, eyeballing your changes and thus shooting in the dark, destroying your starting point each time in the process. Any way you do it, always be sure and mark your starting point before changing anything.

Since you can only move the screen further out (from the set), can this still adequately test if the focus is set for the screen being closer, since the screen couldn't come closer to the set for that technique, or is the erroneous focus usually set too far out by default? Can I just throw up the same red, green, and blue cross patterns that I used for Electrostatic focusing?

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Doing it the first way allows you to keep your focus as it is at each lens during your initial focus checks, in case it's already perfect there. It also allows you to keep getting it tighter and tighter, till it won't get any tighter, no matter how many double-checks you throw at it, using the actual throw distance - the distance from your screen to your actual CRT faces - as your guide.



No, just a Dish DVR, my Panny Bluray - all Pannys I have tested are capable of blacker than black, which I cannot say for Sony's BDPs/PS3s, which don't put out btb on component, only on HDMI - and an HD Fury II taking the HDMI signal into my display via an alternate component input.

Sony sure is sneaky. If you ever look at the back of the boxes of the games for the PlayStation 3, it tells what resolution each game supports, and on the ones that say they support 1080p, there's always a little star next to 1080p, and when you read that star, it says something along the lines of "only on hdmi". You can play 720p on component though. Not that I've ever seen 1080p on a PlayStation 3 (I don't even own one ), but if what you say about the black levels is true, it seems to suggest to me that Sony is really trying to push their HDMI, almost in a way that phases out component cables. I once saw a friend's Xbox 360 in 1080p with component cables, which seems to indicate that it is possible, but Sony seems to be... "Shifty" about it...

Very shifty...

If that's the right choice of words...

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post #9028 of 12493 Old 07-11-2011, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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You can't really single out Mit or Sony. They are all doing the same things. They all "cut corners" by being built with overscan, component is being phased out on all the new bluray players, great component circuitry has given way to much cheaper, highly schlocky - and ultimately sloppy - component circuitry on most of the new fixed pixel flat panels, if they still have component inputs at all, all in favor of HDMI...

And you do have to push in on the screen in the middle to complete your focusing doublecheck on the Cantilever Technique. I use the same paper towel roll I have usually just used to clean the optics, or a pillow from the owner's couch. You can easily push in 3/4 of an inch without worrying about whether the screen is going to break. Remember it's 2 layers - the very strong fresnel and the much more fragile lenticular. Between the 2 of them, 3/4" is not too much to push in on your screen to take that part of the reading.

Always use a thin grid on 480i/p, not 1080i/p. The spaces between the horizontal scanlines are what I focus upon whenever I do the CT. Both the long lines and the small dashes that comprise the vertical lines.

The outside spaces also have to be observed and sometimes dealt with. The Pioneer 510/520/530 Elite HD readies, for instance, had scheimpflug error on the blue image, such that you can get the right 2/3 of the screen in perfect focus, but the left 1/3 will remain out of focus unless and until the angle of the blue lens has been corrected.

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post #9029 of 12493 Old 07-11-2011, 01:26 PM
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Well, sob, my TP61H95 has gone down. Sob! I love this set, sob. For about 14 months, if I were to power it off and the next day power on the red power light would start blinking. But if I would unplug/plug the set it would come on and work just fine. Even if I unplugged it after I powered off and plugged it back in, the next day I could hit the power on the remote and the TV would come on as normal. Figured it to be a relay or some PS voltage not going low thus causing a pin on a transistor/IC to stay high and not power on correctly.

So a couple weeks ago, turned on the set and blinking red light, forgot to unplug the night before. Unplugged the set and only audio came up. Bought some schematics and traced the signal path for the remote to a MAICON bd assembly. Found one on used and replaced it, was delighted when audio and video appeared. Turned the unit off and back on to the darn blinking red light. Back to square one, unplug/plug the tv to get the video and audio. While watching TV for about 4 hours, the video went haywire for a few seconds, then sync up for about 1 minute, then went haywire again, etc. It did this four times and then shut off, I have no video now. sob! Did I say I love this set, the best picture I've had since 1998.

Now I can power the TV on and get audio but no video. What is strange is that I do not need to unplug the unit, just use the remote and it turns on with audio. There must have been something wrong with the video path that would trip the FailSafe when first powered on for almost 18 months.

I have looked throughly at the components on the PS and what they call the def bd , but see nothing out of the ordinary. (no leaking caps, no bulging caps, etc.) Sure are a lot of little diodes though, and I do not have a oscilloscope to scope the signal path. I do have a meter and I am going to check some basic voltages, but I thought I would ask for suggestions. I hear the HV voltage crackling in the crts when first powered on and I can see the HV discharge on the screen when I power off. It has to be something in the signal path but I do not know where to start without a scope.

Any suggestions?

PS. I can not find TP-R-1 and TP-X-1 on the DEF Bd. I was going to check the FS circuit and it said to short those points together, and then to reset it to short the TP-X-1 to ground. It also says in the manual to check C471 for 41.5 volts as part of the FS circuit, but I can not find that either. I wish they would have circled those test points in the manual, but it doesn't even show whre the components on the boards are located or even a pic of the locations of the boards in the TV. I have to look at the Part number on each BD to indentify which BD is what.
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post #9030 of 12493 Old 07-11-2011, 03:39 PM
 
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Any suggestions?

Scrap it and get a BETTER CRT RP HDTV on Craigslist.
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