Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 31 - AVS Forum
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post #901 of 12715 Old 01-15-2007, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by apexmi View Post

Great, So the cleaning procedure would be the same as I use for my Telescope front surface mirror correct? (Distilled water and best cotton cloths I can get)

That's not how I do it, but have at it.

Just make sure not to scratch the very vulnerable plastic surfaces, nor to allow any liquid to penetrate to the inner lenses when you do the lens tops, where the internal lenses will then fog up.


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post #902 of 12715 Old 01-15-2007, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by apexmi View Post

Great, So the cleaning procedure would be the same as I use for my Telescope front surface mirror correct? (Distilled water and best cotton cloths I can get)

That will work. I like to wash and rinse my cotton cloths in distilled water too.

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post #903 of 12715 Old 01-15-2007, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Thanks, Bob.

ONe last thing - does elctrostatic focus (on the focus block) affect grayscale?

If it doesn't, I may tweak it just in case. If it does, I'll just leave it as is.


ef on the blue trimpot inversely mimics blue drive, and yes can change the white balance of your grayscale.

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post #904 of 12715 Old 01-19-2007, 10:09 AM
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Mr. Bob,

On my Sony KP-57WS520, I have two component video inputs which I want to use. On one of my inputs, the red is no longer working. While my display is under warranty, I really, really want to avoid a service tech coming out.

Is this something that's fairly easy to fix/replace? I was wondering if I could do it myself.

My other option is to buy a video component switcher - however, do these affect image quality at all?

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post #905 of 12715 Old 01-20-2007, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Mr. Bob,

On my Sony KP-57WS520, I have two component video inputs which I want to use. On one of my inputs, the red is no longer working. While my display is under warranty, I really, really want to avoid a service tech coming out.

Is this something that's fairly easy to fix/replace? I was wondering if I could do it myself.

My other option is to buy a video component switcher - however, do these affect image quality at all?


And just why do you want to avoid a free warranty repair? And why would you also risk the possible loss of any of future warranty repair of something even more serious? By going in there and trying to fix it yourself, and possibly voiding the rest of your warranty in the process.
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post #906 of 12715 Old 01-20-2007, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Mr. Bob,

On my Sony KP-57WS520, I have two component video inputs which I want to use. On one of my inputs, the red is no longer working. While my display is under warranty, I really, really want to avoid a service tech coming out.

Is this something that's fairly easy to fix/replace? I was wondering if I could do it myself.

My other option is to buy a video component switcher - however, do these affect image quality at all?


I'm going to take a wild stab and assume that your Pr is no longer functional on the input in question.

The switching in these sets is electronic, but the inputs are mechanical. Could be that your Pr jack has come loose where it solders to the circuit board. Or it could be that the switching is not working properly, but that would be a long shot, as it is a very dumb system and only switches, without changing anything.

Even the triple-RCA RS audio switcher is well enough shielded to give excellent component switching. I have used one for quite some time, when my AV receiver was not component switching capable. Or you can get a remote controlled one very nominally from www.Monoprice.com.

If you do have a tech in, be sure he does NOT go into the service menu, unless you wish it. There should be no need of that, for this fix, which is emminently fixable on location, under warranty. Everthing should be able to be done on that panel in the back that holds all the input jacks, and the board that's mounted to it.


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post #907 of 12715 Old 01-22-2007, 06:53 PM
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Thanks, Bob.

Ok....I have a new problem. (The component issue actually occured a few months ago).

I was watching TV tonight. The set had been on for an hour or so......then I heard a minor snap/pop from the TV....the picture went semi-out for maybe a second or two with horizontal color lines (a few of them maybe)...then the image came right back on. Kept running with no issues.

Sure enough, my convergence is off AGAIN and in the exact same areas as before! And, I had no power issues in the house this time (unlike before) and have the set connected to that Belkin power surge/UPS.

I check my convergence and it's off in the same areas as a couple of weeks ago. Ughhhh.

What is your best guess as to the problem? Is this a bad convergence board? Should I call someone out....I mean is it just going to get worse?

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post #908 of 12715 Old 01-22-2007, 07:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Thanks, Bob.

Ok....I have a new problem. (The component issue actually occured a few months ago).

I was watching TV tonight. The set had been on for an hour or so......then I heard a minor snap/pop from the TV....the picture went semi-out for maybe a second or two with horizontal color lines (a few of them maybe)...then the image came right back on. Kept running with no issues.

Sure enough, my convergence is off AGAIN and in the exact same areas as before! And, I had no power issues in the house this time (unlike before) and have the set connected to that Belkin power surge/UPS.

I check my convergence and it's off in the same areas as a couple of weeks ago. Ughhhh.

What is your best guess as to the problem? Is this a bad convergence board? Should I call someone out....I mean is it just going to get worse?


If you tighten your convergence via sm rather than in user, you'll reprogram the eeproms, allowing little hiccups like this have no power over you. They don't erase with simple losses of power, like user conv does, springing you right back to eeprom'd factory settings.

As to why this is happening, dunno. Don't own one, you'll have to look for others who do for that answer.

You might want to check the conv ICs - they run ungodly hot in there, esp. on Sonys. Cold solder joints at their legs could cause this kind of thing. Resoldering them could cure it.

I have seen this a lot with the older sets, with the long, lean 4278's in there.


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post #909 of 12715 Old 01-22-2007, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If you tighten your convergence via DCAM rather than in user, you'll reprogram the eeproms, allowing little hiccups like this have no power over you. They don't erase with simple losses of power, like user conv does, springing you right back to eeprom'd factory settings.

As to why this is happening, dunno. Don't own one, you'll have to look for others who do for that answer.

You might want to check the conv ICs - they run ungodly hot in there, esp. on Sonys. Cold solder joints at their legs could cause this kind of thing. Resoldering them could cure it.

I have seen this a lot with the older sets, with the long, lean 4278's in there.


Mr Bob


Can you explain "DCAM" more? I do converence in the service menu.

My set is only two years. Does this sound like a bad converenge board or no?

I should mention too that the convergence shift is occuring like before - red most noticable on the right hand 1/3 of screen (though in a few other areas too).

But, it went right back quite similar to when I had that brownout.

This was the first time I've ever seen my TV do this with the image "snapping" for a second.

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post #910 of 12715 Old 01-22-2007, 07:54 PM
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Just to add....


I did go in and out of the service menu a couple of times earlier in the evening to tweak a couple of unrelated values (brightness and contrast).

I wonder if turning the power on/off a few times within the couple of hours could have sparked something. I've done this before with no problems, however.

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post #911 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 01:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Can you explain "DCAM" more? I do converence in the service menu.

My set is only two years. Does this sound like a bad converenge board or no?

I should mention too that the convergence shift is occuring like before - red most noticable on the right hand 1/3 of screen (though in a few other areas too).

But, it went right back quite similar to when I had that brownout.

This was the first time I've ever seen my TV do this with the image "snapping" for a second.


Sorry, I was thinking that you had a Hit the first time I replied here on this one, and didn't catch that DCAM reference later, when I realized yours was a Sony. So I didn't get all the corrections done. DCAM only applies to Hitachis. I just corrected this reference in the former reply.

I am at a loss. Hopefully someone else can chip in here and help.


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post #912 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 06:04 AM
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Bob,

Is it uncommon on CRT RPTV to have an occasional, somewhat unexplainable "blip" like this?

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post #913 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Sure enough, my convergence is off AGAIN and in the exact same areas as before! And, I had no power issues in the house this time (unlike before)....

My year-2000 Philips CRT RPTV sometimes seem to misconverge after an electrical glitch--or accidently changing viewing modes with the remote. These both shift the NORMAl HD mode to PC (computer) mode, with only a slight convergence change as a visible result; image edges appear misconverged with colored 'borders'. Might be happening there. Quickly recognize it here now, so a quick remote mode change fixes it. A remote option that displays the current viewing mode helps. -- John
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post #914 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 07:37 AM
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Hey John,

What was a bit odd I suppose is that I didn't touch anything on the remote or anything. Ever experience a "pop" out of the blue, never to have it happen again? I'll see what happens tonight and will probably re-converge everything.

I'm wondering if I should give my display one more chance before calling out a service tech? I talked to them today (have had them out before for unrelated issues) and he said it might just be part of the board that would need to be replaced - I told him no matter what I was my EPROM transfered and he said they would do that.

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post #915 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 08:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Bob,

Is it uncommon on CRT RPTV to have an occasional, somewhat unexplainable "blip" like this?


In my experience yes. I never had that with my Mits's, nor my Panny RPTVs.

But common in Tosh's, which eventually went away. Gotta listen to the indicators out there, for this one...


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post #916 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Hey John,

What was a bit odd I suppose is that I didn't touch anything on the remote or anything. Ever experience a "pop" out of the blue, never to have it happen again? I'll see what happens tonight and will probably re-converge everything.

I'm wondering if I should give my display one more chance before calling out a service tech? I talked to them today (have had them out before for unrelated issues) and he said it might just be part of the board that would need to be replaced - I told him no matter what I was my EPROM transfered and he said they would do that.


Intermittents are a pain. If the service call is costing you cash, I'd wait just a little longer. If it's on an ESP, call them out now.


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post #917 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 08:57 AM
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I love my 73713! HD pic is excellent! My Bro-in-law has a Mitsu 73" DLP and the HD pics is pixellated. I'm not sure if he doesn't have it adjusted correctly or what, or the fact that he is using his TW Cable DVR using component. I'm going to try convincing him to use an HDMI cable so that I can truely brag about my old display beating his new fancy display !
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post #918 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Intermittents are a pain. If the service call is costing you cash, I'd wait just a little longer. If it's on an ESP, call them out now.


Mr Bob


It's under extended warranty and I just made the call.

The tech told me they are researching the issue. He thinks it could be the board with the EPROM (which they would transfer to the new board) or another board which name slips me....but it doesn't have EPROM on it - maybe the IC board??

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post #919 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Hey John,

What was a bit odd I suppose is that I didn't touch anything on the remote or anything. Ever experience a "pop" out of the blue, never to have it happen again? I'll see what happens tonight and will probably re-converge everything.

Yes indeed, a few such pops (durng 6.5 years use), which I attribute to CRT arcing, have thown my set into PC mode, just as my cable converter can if I've rebooted it and forgot to switch out of viewing mode, plus the other causes mentioned. -- John
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post #920 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 04:19 PM
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I talked to the service tech again. He's supposed to come out next week and thinks it's some board called the "suite" or "sweep" - was hard to hear on the phone.

Bob or anyone - have you heard of this board?

He's not 100% about it, but thinks that's what it probably is. Does swapping out this board affect grayscale or any calibrations?

I figure I will see how the TV responds through the next week. If no problems, I'll porbbaly just hold off. If it happens again anytime so, I'll definitely replace it.

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post #921 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 05:22 PM
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Maybe it's just me, but.... I've never seen anyone before with a valid warranty, so afraid to use it.
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post #922 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Johnla View Post

Maybe it's just me, but.... I've never seen anyone before with a valid warranty, so afraid to use it.

Maybe it's just me, but your post is pretty pointless to the subject at hand. But, I guess I'll still repsond. Since my display is very well calibrated and ISF'd --- having been extremely happy with my image quality --- I really don't like the idea of a service technican going inside of my TV unless it is absolutely necessary. Evidently, you're unaware of the countless number of horrors stories posted on this and other forums of some service techs making things worse - especially in regards to calibration as most are not familar with that aspect of displays.

Now, this particular company I called - I have used before to swap out a bad HDMI board - however, I still don't like taking any chances unless I have to.

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post #923 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 07:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Mason View Post

Yes indeed, a few such pops (durng 6.5 years use), which I attribute to CRT arcing, have thown my set into PC mode, just as my cable converter can if I've rebooted it and forgot to switch out of viewing mode, plus the other causes mentioned. -- John

It's kind of funny. The more I think about it, I think ever since I had the TV I've occasionally heard noises which are similar to someone cracking their ankle or elbow --- a short, quick fairly quiet pop (or make like a Rice Crispies noise of one or two pops). I've never thought much about it --- not sure if it's related to my situation.

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post #924 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 09:46 PM
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Fellow CRT'r chiming in. I have a Panny 53x54 set that I bought 2 years ago. 2nd Panny rpcrt for myself. I love it. Its only been calibrated by myself and it looks better than any digital I have seen out yet. It could be a tad sharper but the color, depth and blacks can't be beat.

Also, who said RPCRT's don't look good in the house?
(color is way off in this pic, the TV is silver not that tan color)


The only difference between digital projection and CRT is depth and weight. Ff you plan on keeping your components under the set in the stand. Then its going to be at least 20" deep anyways. My Elite 45tx is a good 19+". So, depth to me is a moot point. Picture quality comes before form. As far as weight, I don't know about many others here. But I haven't moved my TV since I got it where I want it for over a year. Plus, the delivery guys put it there so big deal.

Sadly, there was a Mits WS-65711 for sale in my area for $1500. Had to pass it up because there is no way I could get it in my basement But I could not be more happy with my set after 2 years.

It is better to ask for forgiveness, than it is to ask for permissision - the WAF factor
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post #925 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidHir View Post

Maybe it's just me, but your post is pretty pointless to the subject at hand.

No it is not. No matter if it is ISF calibrated or not, you still have some sort of a problem with your TV. You were even willing to go so far as to try and fix something else in it yourself and possibly risk losing your warranty with the chance of screwing something up if you don't know what you're doing, and it appears you don't. And all just because you don't want a trained tech to look at your set, even though you're willing to poke around in it yourself. If you have a problem it needs to be fixed by someone that knows how to fix it, and if you lose your ISF settings during the repair, well unfortunately that's a risk of having a set calibrated and then later needing a repair done that also might wipe out the calibration.
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post #926 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:13 PM
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Hey Mr Bob, I referenced you a couple of times in a posting of mine on the H83/H84 owners thread about some cleaning i did on my 46H83. I included pics of the lenses before and after. I hate to throw names around to loosely on this site . Just a head's up that i mentioned your name in it and you can check it out if i misrepresented you in any way. Love this thread you started here and i check it out every day. Good reading

If it only takes one match to start a forestfire, then why does it take the whole#$%@!&* box to start a camp fire for the kids?!?!? PITTDOG1
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post #927 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteroMAdMAn View Post


Sadly, there was a Mits WS-65711 for sale in my area for $1500. Had to pass it up because there is no way I could get it in my basement But I could not be more happy with my set after 2 years.


I hope you realize that the 65" and 73" Mits's separate into upper and lower halves -

If that helps -


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post #928 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pittdog1 View Post

Hey Mr Bob, I referenced you a couple of times in a posting of mine on the H83/H84 owners thread about some cleaning i did on my 46H83. I included pics of the lenses before and after. I hate to throw names around to loosely on this site . Just a head's up that i mentioned your name in it and you can check it out if i misrepresented you in any way. Love this thread you started here and i check it out every day. Good reading


My first reaction is that I hope you spelled my name right... Thanks for the mention, I am sure you were on point...

Send me a link and I'll look it over -


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post #929 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:25 PM
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post # 1798

If it only takes one match to start a forestfire, then why does it take the whole#$%@!&* box to start a camp fire for the kids?!?!? PITTDOG1
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post #930 of 12715 Old 01-23-2007, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

I hope you realize that the 65" and 73" Mits's separate into upper and lower halves -

If that helps -


Mr Bob

I do know. But I'm sure that even when split into two. It most likely will not get into my basement

It is better to ask for forgiveness, than it is to ask for permissision - the WAF factor
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