Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 427 - AVS Forum
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post #12781 of 12791 Old 11-23-2014, 08:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Well my workaround for the WS 65813 worked just fine and using each set of settings with the proper input became effortless.

While I like to keep the Low color temp settings in place just to show what Mit calls an accurate grayscale - it never is, out of the box, it's always pinkish rather than true gray - I had to use those settings to do the second input. But what I also found was that the color temp setting in User stays with that particular input whenever you change inputs - in his case from cable to bluray, which he didn't own until I got there and is still thinking about whether he wants to change over from regular DVD. I think after a few days, that will come to be a no-brainer...

So we kept the grayscale I did the first night where it was, High on the Monlink input (DVI/HDMI) and let component take the Low settings, which I completely ISF'd also in this case. Now when he switches inputs the corresponding color temp settings stay with their assigned inputs. No need to change color temp settings again now at all, no matter how many times he changes inputs.

Jim's set turned out awesome too, just like Len's. It had been in mothballs in the basement for 4 years, broken and unfixed, because of life continually getting in the way. No more, he now has an HD picture to die for. He had so little use on the guns that we were able to expand the images out quite a bit from factory, also re-aiming the images to be at the center of each gun - the outer 2 were the typical mis-centered design I have seen in all 9" gun Mit's.

We were going to use 3 of the Toys R Us blocks for the height on the shim mod, but found no bolts that were long enough, so had to stay with 2 of those blocks/corner. It was all good, tho. The expanded raster captured more of the screen face than factory, and captured his overscan reduction as well.

The PerfectColor feature allowed me to go in there and using my Accupel HD signal generator and a red filter plus true color isolation in the convergence mode, I was able to change that color paradigm to true, natural color. Red push - which I also call blue/green diminish - has been eradicated with true natural color in its place. Fleshtones on faces - and skin in general - stay real now, while green and blue, like in a peacock feather - stay vivid.

The blue of the drink in a martini glass was especially prominent afterwards, like the woman with the blue hair highlights was in Pacific Rim, which Len and I watched the first night. Those blues in her hair would not have shown all that well before the color decoding op that neutralized the red push on both of these sets. Nor would the sparking, transparent blue drink in the martini glass. After the color decoding realignment, both of these images were stunning.

Jim now has a picture to die for, and we could not have been happier watching both Harrison Ford and Benedict Cumberbatch being interviewed later.

Truly 2 HD renditions to die for now, on these 2 Maryland sets.



b

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Last edited by Mr Bob; 11-28-2014 at 12:07 PM.
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post #12782 of 12791 Old 11-27-2014, 10:55 AM
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Thumbs up

Christmas came early for me, last week. When I saw that Mr Bob was in my area I knew the time had come to revive my comatose Mits 65813.

Bob has already detailed above what was wrong with my set and what he did to get it in fantastic working order. I was concerned when a picture first appeared and it was like a double image of the device selection bar with a gremlin chasing thru the input options. He hadn't seen that weirdness before but suspected the set of front panel buttons may be the cause. We exercised the stiffness out of the buttons and that problem was solved. I really enjoyed watching and helping Bob clean the optics, do the shimming mod and fine tune the colors and image. I learned a lot from Bob's helpful explanations and I'm well prepared to maintain my set for years to come.

Thank you Mr Bob! And to anyone out there with a CRT RPTV with a less than perfect picture, I highly recommend Bob's expertise.
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post #12783 of 12791 Old 11-28-2014, 12:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Enjoyed it immensely, Jim. Especially your help in hefting those big 9" guns during the shimming op. I could have found a way to do it myself I am sure, but having it be a 2 man operation made everything go so much faster and easier. I have both you and Len to thank for that, really, as he helped out too, on his set. Thanks to both of you!

Jim, have you pushed your viewing chairs forward now, like we talked about, so you're only 8' back from your 65" now, rather than 10'? One of the features of a super-crisp picture is a bigger picture to watch and get immersed in, because of being able to be so much closer to the screen and have it take up so much more of your field of view. Pushing viewing chairs forward 2' closer to your screen - from 10' back to 8' back instead - increases your viewed picture size by 20%, taking up more of your field of view - so fewer distractions from the room - and increasing your immersion factor appreciably, giving you even more hypnotic suspension of disbelief to get spirited away by.

And thanks again for that marvelous Chinese food on that last night! So glad you had already checked out all the Chinese food places in your area and now knew exactly which one to take me to.

I look forward to your re-experiencing lots of movies you have seen before, with your new and UNslewed color paradigm and with now super-crisp HD. I am about to re-PerfectColor my own set with some things I learned when doing yours!



b
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Last edited by Mr Bob; 11-30-2014 at 06:24 PM.
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post #12784 of 12791 Old 12-02-2014, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post
On this WS 65813 I am working on, Jim uses both the DVI input and the component input, each for a different source. I fully ISF'd the DVI input last night, but it looked terrible once I changed to the component input. Tested and came to find that the changes I made to the DVI input stay in service mode while in the component input too, but are not correct for the component input. To change the component input settings will change the DVI settings too, which I DON'T want to do!

I have a workaround for this - using the Low vs. the High color temp settings - but it will involve changing the color temp every time you change inputs. If anybody out there has figured a way around this without that User workaround, I am all ears! Call me on my cell, as I will not be getting emails or checking this thread while working today. My cell is 650-333-4808.

Thanks -

b
Hello Mr. Bob,

This is interesting for me as I have added a Samsung Blu ray player to the DVI connection on my 48413. I was concerned with having both the component connections (DTV) and the new DVI connection at the same time. Can the Mits be setup this way without cause for concern?
I moved my Comcast cable input (was DTV) to component2 for this reason.

When calibrated, are all the 1080i inputs calibrated via the same service menu options? ( not sure of the terminology here, is it 480i/480p/1080i, mode0, mode1, node2? )

By moving my cable input from DTV to comp2 did I negate my calibrated settings?

Is it possible to adjust the horizontal positioning for only the DVI input? On my 48413, the new Samsung player output is shifted to the left by about 2 inches.

Thanks in advance for your comments!
Don

"I Want My HDTV"
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post #12785 of 12791 Old 12-03-2014, 01:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by da232 View Post
Hello Mr. Bob,

This is interesting for me as I have added a Samsung Blu ray player to the DVI connection on my 48413. I was concerned with having both the component connections (DTV) and the new DVI connection at the same time. Can the Mits be setup this way without cause for concern?
I moved my Comcast cable input (was DTV) to component2 for this reason.
DK if the DVI and the component share the same input, but I think not - that each has its own dedicated input. As such I am sure you can hook up both without any worries.

Here's something else I wrote up above that maybe you missed:

Well my workaround for the WS 65813 worked just fine and using each set of settings with the proper input became effortless.

While I like to keep the Low color temp settings in place just to show what Mit calls an accurate grayscale - it never is, out of the box, it's always pinkish rather than true gray - I had to use those settings to do the second input. But what I also found was that the color temp setting in User stays with that particular input whenever you change inputs - in his case from cable to bluray, which he didn't own until I got there and is still thinking about whether he wants to change over from regular DVD. I think after a few days, that will come to be a no-brainer...

So we kept the grayscale I did the first night where it was, High on the Monlink input (DVI/HDMI) and let component take the Low settings, which I completely ISF'd also in this case. Now when he switches inputs the corresponding color temp settings stay with their assigned inputs. No need to change color temp settings again now at all, no matter how many times he changes inputs.



Quote:
When calibrated, are all the 1080i inputs calibrated via the same service menu options? ( not sure of the terminology here, is it 480i/480p/1080i, mode0, mode1, node2?)
Unfortunately yes. Whatever you do in 1080i in the service menu - setup of the HD registers - stays universally applicable to the HD incoming content whether it's delivered via the component HD input or DVI/HDMI HD input. The 1 exception is the Color Temp because there are 2 sets of settings in the service menu, Low and High. Since you can set one input up for the Low color temp and the other input for the High color temp, like I did with Jim's, it can be pulled off. And since the User settings are specific to the input itself, you can assign High color temp to your DVI input and Low color temp to your component input, just like I did and you won't have to change anything after that when you change inputs.

Quote:
By moving my cable input from DTV to comp2 did I negate my calibrated settings?
Not sure exactly what you are saying, but I found that the DVI input requires its own unique set of settings for its grayscale, completely different from the settings used to get the correct color of gray for the component input. Letting one apply to the other results in horrendous grayscale on the inappropriate one.

And if you are using Component 2, are you even getting 1080i anyway? I believe that's one of the models where the DTV input - or the third Component input - is the only input not limited to 480p, as Component 1 and 2 are on that vintage of model. Shooting from the hip here, have not played with that particular model, but seems the correct vintage for that assumption on my part - that Component 2 is limited to 480p.

Quote:
Is it possible to adjust the horizontal positioning for only the DVI input? On my 48413, the new Samsung player output is shifted to the left by about 2 inches.
No, you can't have it all. Your picture sizing and placement on your screen are not assignable the same way. Not sure why this is happening, but the only way to shift just that device is to have it placemented in the 480i/p section of the sm, which of course would limit you to 480p on that device.

Quote:
Thanks in advance for your comments!
Don


b

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www.projectiontvtroubleshootingadvice.com
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post #12786 of 12791 Old 12-03-2014, 10:05 AM
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All the component inputs on the xx-x13 series are 480i/480p/1080i so your good on whichever component input you want to use.

I've never experienced a shift on any input on either my 65813 or 65313. I've used just about every input at one point or another except DTV. Unfortunately I can't help you there
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post #12787 of 12791 Old Yesterday, 11:35 PM
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2004 Hitachi 57S700 for parts or rise from the ashes?

I have an older RPTV Hitachi set that started failing a few months ago. It power cycles on/off repeatedly until it stays on. At first, it was a short handful of cycles. But they got longer and longer, till it wouldn't turn on while cycling for a few hours. I loved that set, and want to know it can have some life somewhere else.

So, if you're in the New England area, and feel you might be able to fix this set, or could use it for parts, it's free for the taking. Just PM me if interested, and i'll let you know when you can pick it up. Thanks.

Vegetables are what food eats.
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post #12788 of 12791 Old Today, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Turnbough View Post
All the component inputs on the xx-x13 series are 480i/480p/1080i so your good on whichever component input you want to use...
...I've used just about every input at one point or another except DTV. Unfortunately I can't help you there
And which 65813 input gives you the best picture?
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post #12789 of 12791 Old Today, 11:46 AM
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I use the DVI port. but I've got great pictures off the component inputs also. I use a DVDO edge to send all my components to my TV either up converted, down converted or passed through at 1080i. It only outputs via HDMI so I use a DVI converter. I've since bought a Panasonic BD-35 (2008) which outputs 1080i via component. I have it hooked up both ways but usually leave it HDMI for convenience. The movie Need for speed looked amazing on component though. My edge does a little better job down converting blu-rays from 1080p@24 than the internal chip on the Panasonic but it looks very good in its own right. I personally like the component input better but everything works and looks good so I haven't dropped the $300 on a HDfury 3 to get everything over component.
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post #12790 of 12791 Old Today, 11:55 AM
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I also use my edge to drop my overscan to 0-1% and hookup a netbook via VGA to RGBHV cable and also a google Chromecast but wasn't really as impressed as I was hoping to be with it.

If I'm ever able to have Mr bob come down and tight up my TV's overscan via SM. I may have a boat load of cables all over the back of the TV again..
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post #12791 of 12791 Old Today, 12:04 PM
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To me the colors look better over component then the DVI port. but I've also read that the DVI port is computer input and the component is video input for colors but I may be completely wrong on that
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