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post #13021 of 13046 Old 06-03-2015, 01:08 PM - Thread Starter
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You have just re-ignited my interest!

Could you run it down for me again, which box it is, so I can check into getting one? I am paying $100/mo for Dish and can't help but think this box could help me save some serious money!

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post #13022 of 13046 Old 06-08-2015, 10:18 AM
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Just an update on the Hitachi big screen. I have sperate it and cleaned the lenses as well as the main screen. As well as applying the HDMI "fix" by reprogramming the eeprom data. The picture is now crisp and clear, but I still have an overhang issue ( on all inputs ) and it still at times will go fuzzy or a solid green screen.
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post #13023 of 13046 Old 06-09-2015, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Great! Isn't having a crystal clear image the bomb???



(BTW if you have not done the deeper optics - under the lens barrels - then you're less than halfway there. On a Hitachi all 10 of the optical surface that get dirty in there, of the 28 total, will usually need it by now. If you've only done the mirror and lens tops, there are still 6 optical surfaces to go in the projection path).


Is your content hooked up via HDMI or component? If HDMI that could explain your green screen and fuzziness. Try connecting up with component instead and see if that doesn't go away.

Your "overhang" is called overscan, and yes it can be cured. I do it all the time in my calibrations. There are 2 ways to do it, the simple way - which restores lost video real estate out at the edges - and the more advanced way, which does all that and more. It's a system where you will get more depth in your picture from then on. I am fully glad to teach you the process, or you can simply fly me in. Superleo and LastButNotLeast, both Hitachi owners and both LONG time participants of this thread, will vouch for me.

If you turn me loose on your CRT-based set, regardless of brand - and this goes for anyone reading this - I guaranty you the picture will wind up as something you'll have never seen before. Since these things are - literally at this point - lasting virtually forever, it's the best investment you can make right now, with all the short-lived, throwaway new display offerings out there that need to be replaced every few years. Or re-lamped. Gets expensive.

None of that with CRT. They just keep going, and going, and going...



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post #13024 of 13046 Old 06-16-2015, 12:15 PM
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Need a bit of advice. Background: I have a Sony RPTV that is component only for HD, and only does 1080i (720p is down-scaled). The set is working perfectly, and hasn't been used for 6+ years when it was replaced by a last gen Pio Elite. Until recently that is; a little CRT lens/mirror/screen cleaning and interior vacuuming and it looks the same as I remember it. Maybe even better now, as I touched up the convergence and it's markedly improved clarity almost as much as removing a layer of fine dust from the gun lenses. I'd like to use this TV for gaming.

Unfortunately none of my regular BD setup discs work without HDMI, as HDCP is required. So I used the AVS DVD at 1080i with the S&M blue filters and that all looks casually fine, but one thing I didn't like is my green level is set higher than it should be, whereas R and B look correct. I went into the service menu and G is set at the stock level, mid-point in the range. They don't say in the SM, but they vaguely infer to leave G at that level and adjust R and B. I guess that's normal: don't screw with the G unless it's "broken", use it as the reference. Do you agree with this?

IOW, since G is "too high" (default = half way), I should reduce contrast setting so G is the right level (by eye/test pattern), then bump up R and B until they appropriately suit the G level. I should say that right now R and B are already at the "correct" levels by test pattern, for the mid-way/default contrast setting, and again it's the G that's "off", and I'm only suggesting this method assuming we want to keep G at default (it would be easier to just reduce the G level, probably). Anyway, this is what I'd like to do first, if it makes sense. To get a feel for adjusting the guns via the service menu. What do you think? If that works the way I think it does, then I'll hook up the instruments and attempt some sort of half-assed calibration, or at least an "instrument setup". Never done a CRT-based display before, only panels. Thanks.
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post #13025 of 13046 Old 06-16-2015, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by cfraser View Post
Need a bit of advice. Background: I have a Sony RPTV that is component only for HD, and only does 1080i (720p is down-scaled). The set is working perfectly, and hasn't been used for 6+ years when it was replaced by a last gen Pio Elite. Until recently that is; a little CRT lens/mirror/screen cleaning and interior vacuuming and it looks the same as I remember it. Maybe even better now, as I touched up the convergence and it's markedly improved clarity almost as much as removing a layer of fine dust from the gun lenses. I'd like to use this TV for gaming.

Unfortunately none of my regular BD setup discs work without HDMI, as HDCP is required. So I used the AVS DVD at 1080i with the S&M blue filters and that all looks casually fine, but one thing I didn't like is my green level is set higher than it should be, whereas R and B look correct. I went into the service menu and G is set at the stock level, mid-point in the range. They don't say in the SM, but they vaguely infer to leave G at that level and adjust R and B. I guess that's normal: don't screw with the G unless it's "broken", use it as the reference. Do you agree with this?

IOW, since G is "too high" (default = half way), I should reduce contrast setting so G is the right level (by eye/test pattern), then bump up R and B until they appropriately suit the G level. I should say that right now R and B are already at the "correct" levels by test pattern, for the mid-way/default contrast setting, and again it's the G that's "off", and I'm only suggesting this method assuming we want to keep G at default (it would be easier to just reduce the G level, probably). Anyway, this is what I'd like to do first, if it makes sense. To get a feel for adjusting the guns via the service menu. What do you think? If that works the way I think it does, then I'll hook up the instruments and attempt some sort of half-assed calibration, or at least an "instrument setup". Never done a CRT-based display before, only panels. Thanks.

My experience is that green is not a sacred cow...if you know what you're doing. And recognize the result when you get it. If not you could totally screw up your grayscale, color balance, gamma, color temps and a host of other things. My advice is get yourself an inexpensive colorimeter. Contact Mr. Bob (the thread starter). And retain him, on a telephone consultation. He'll guide you through whatever level of calibration you need. Assuming you have some familiarity and comfort with the process.
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post #13026 of 13046 Old 06-16-2015, 09:21 PM
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^ I do have a colorimeter etc. Maybe I should start out with that first, skip the setup disc completely. I thought the disc might make it easier, it's not like I'll be critically viewing with this display, just like to have things set up "correctly". I can't even notice the elevated G level by eye now, so this is all about being anal. And lazy, I have gotten used to using the PC to put out the HDMI test signals and taking all the measurements automatically, and I have to go back to doing it manually for this...tedious + slow.

I don't consider G level a sacred cow either, I always adjust it for panels if it needs adjusting. But I don't adjust it first. This particular display is a Sony model that had green issues back in the day, I forget exactly but it used to flicker or streak in my case, worse in many other peoples'. I did have to make an adjustment (hardware) some years ago that sure fixed that problem, and I bet I adjusted the R and B levels (they're not stock) to match the only way I could get the G to work properly. So I may be limited in exactly what service menu changes I can make re the G level anyway. [Edit: I am still looking for my notes from that era, I am an engineer by trade and I make notes on everything technical that I do, at home or work, especially "adjustments". I also have a bad memory...]

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post #13027 of 13046 Old 06-17-2015, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Haven't time to read this set of posts thoroughly right now, but if you need to get HDMI to your component-only set, contact me directly. I have your solution.

Will get back to this ASAP -

b

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post #13028 of 13046 Old 06-17-2015, 10:38 AM
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^ I am not specifically looking for an HDMI to component converter, which I'm guessing you think I wanted because of my laziness/whinging at the end there. That's a good catch though, because I actually was looking for one, but not for the reason you probably thought.

What I didn't say, but was thinking of it before I did a lot of googling, was I'd like an HDMI 720p to component 1080i converter/upscaler. Good luck finding one at a sensible price. I did see one that will do it for non-HDCP stuff, but that makes it useless for me as I only want to convert commercial video. OK, for $5k up, you can probably find one, for $50k, no prob... I wanted one of these because this RPTV only does HD in 1080i, it downscales 720p to 480p, and lots of games are only 720p (or less) because the developers disabled internal upscaling by the game console even though the console is very capable of doing it (shortsighted idiots!).

Anyway this is a different topic from what I really wanted to know (adjusting gun levels). But yes, now that you mention it, an HDMI 1080p to component 1080i converter would be useful for an instrument setup using the PC as a generator, but since I only have this one display that I'd use component input on (all my other numerous displays have HDMI too) it's not really worth it to me. For years I did "calibration" manually, I've just gotten spoiled relatively recently.
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post #13029 of 13046 Old 06-18-2015, 09:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes I have what you want, to convert 1080p - or 720p - to 1080i. Allowing anyone reading this to stop having to pay satellite's high prices and get by with a Roku or Apple TV box, both of which put out only progressive, which is lost on our machines if we are already spoiled by HD.

This instrument also converts HDMI to component or RGBHV, switchable. It is so good that overhead projector people use it, whose images need to be a lot clearer than our smaller CRT RPTVs do.

Your prices don't make sense as stated, BTW. $5K? $50K??? For that kind of money - $5,000-$50,000 - you can get studio grade gear, whose efficacy is lost on consumer displays.

You have not stated whether the green is off in the brights or the darks. With our CRT units, there are only 2 hinge points - 20IRE and 80IRE. But at least there are 2. On some LCD displays there is only 1 hinge point.

But it matters, as to what you want to improve on your set. We generally never change the high IRE green level, we keep it as it at factory default setting, as it determines the overall light levels of our sets. In the darker levels - the Cutoff or Screen levels - we technically should not change the green from its centerpoint also, but we can get away with changing it a little bit. So leave alone the high-IRE levels and go ahead and slightly alter the darker green if you wish. I like to leave both green levels at factory default and if I need to lower it a little bit I raise the red and blue the same amount. Or half the same amount. Or until the dark grays match my reference optical comparator's gray in the darks.

Keeping the greens at their midpoints assures us that the tracking of the grayscale will stay linear. Too much altering of the green in either the bright areas or the dark areas can throw that delicate balance off and make our grayscale take on a non-linear tracking. Some DIYers on the LG OLED flat panels - which have 20 step grayscale registers - had only 10 step patterns to use and didn't alter the intervening 5 IRE steps between each of the 10 steps of their pattern, to allow for proper extrapolation therein. As such they wound up with very non-linear tracking of their grayscales, resulting in obnoxiously "off" colorations. When I did one of those panels I made sure to do that extrapolation, because I didn't have a 20 step pattern to use either. But my calibration turned out silky smooth because of that extrapolation. A non-linear grayscale is not real fun to watch.

Here's that thread if you're curious about LG's OLED tech. My observations about extrapolating the intervening 5 IRE steps are in there somewhere, but God knows where now, with 16 pages to go thru...

Calibration Anomaly on Newest of the New LG OLED!


I am assuming that as an experienced calibrator you KNOW to record the beginning values of any registers you intend to alter, BEFORE you alter them. We need an efficacious trail of bread crumbs back to the garden, in case we get in over our heads.

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post #13030 of 13046 Old 06-18-2015, 12:29 PM
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^ Thanks for the insight. Yes, I do record everything before, and after. I use HCFR, and load up the "Comments" section with each set of readings, besides my scrawlings in the service manuals.

Moving Green levels away from factory defaults I only do when "all" other options have been exhausted for correct grayscale (the most important part). Typically it's probably due to aging, I think I notice it after ~5 years of regular use. In this case, there was a factory manufacturing issue mostly with the Green CRT, these Sony models were famous for it (early 2000s). It's the bright Green that seems off to me, much too bright by test pattern, I would say more like 90IRE, near the top end. I did have to make a G hardware adjustment years ago to fix the (let's call it) aging and manufacturing issue. This required me to reduce the R and B levels to suit. I did not have a colorimeter back then, and shortly retired this display since the HDMI writing was well on the wall, in fact I think DVI and proper 720p display came out on this "same" model the following model year.

You sure your device does HDMI 720p to component 1080i for ALL material? Like it needs to be legal for North America to properly accept the HDMI to do HDCP, plus it needs to convert and more problematically (U.S. legal-wise) upscale. There are tons of devices that do all that except upscale, which is really the only reason I want the device. I have no doubt an appropriate device exists, but it seems like it's almost "secret" it's so hard to find. After posting yesterday I looked again and I did find one device at a reasonable price that is no longer available with a North American power supply (only various European ones...different laws there). Somebody must have complained. Not even 100% sure it would work, since most people who reviewed it were using it for composite video, not component, so the upscaling etc. factors were moot. I do know you can get professional devices that do what I want, I looked at my usual pro sources, and they are very expensive. I am sure you can get something suitable for cheap in Asia though, I just didn't find it. It has to be reasonably cheap, because otherwise, you know, we'll just use one of the deluxe 1080p plasmas for the forced 720p stuff.
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post #13031 of 13046 Old 06-18-2015, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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My device will do everything you have stated here, plus its video signal will not be blanked out. It takes HDMI in, puts out component or RGBHV, switchable. It's in the $500-600 range.

Contact me directly and I'll set you up. I can get you one that's less expensive that will decode the HDCP encryption, but won't do the scaling from one scanrate to the other.

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post #13032 of 13046 Old 06-18-2015, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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I did have to make a G hardware adjustment years ago to fix the (let's call it) aging and manufacturing issue. This required me to reduce the R and B levels to suit.
What did you do? What was this issue? If R and B were always at factory setting for light level, why did you not increase the G to match the R and B rather than sacrificing overall light level by reducing R and B?

Any of the colors can be used for reference, it does not have to be the green. G is used by default for factory settings on new units and units with no changes on them, it is industry standard. But on units with some years on them and where the green has been changed, the rules may have to change too.

Don't really know anything until and unless what had to change is revealed and what changes were made.

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post #13033 of 13046 Old 06-19-2015, 01:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Bob,

It does indeed do 1080i over component output and is one of, if not the only streaming box to do so. No rgb converter required. The AV cable that comes with the box is component and will do 1080i straight through right out of the box (You do need to set the box to 1080i upon first boot). If you play a lot of digital files, I can't recommend this box enough. It will handle and decode every codec you can throw at it. I've only ever had minor issues with certain dual audio (multiple languages) files, and I'm talking only 2-3 files out of the 500 plus movies/show episodes I've played on it. It's both youtube and netflix capable and is just an all around excellent box for our TVs. Let me know if you want any more info!
I searched ebay just now for it and most of the units I looked at had only HDMI outputs, tho I did find one with the component output.

How can I make sure the model I would buy would be 1080i capable? Is there a model I can specify?

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post #13034 of 13046 Old 06-19-2015, 08:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I just went to the WD website to see if I could verify that the box I found online would work, but they don't give any specs on output resolutions either! I want to make sure your box was not a fluke, and that any box I might get would indeed do 1080i. I have sent a message to the seller and he sent back a link to the box on Amazon describing the box more, but I still do not have corroboration that either his box will do it, or that all the WD boxes do it.

I have asked him to make that a refundable deal breaker, we'll see what he says...

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post #13035 of 13046 Old 06-20-2015, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
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What did you do? What was this issue? If R and B were always at factory setting for light level, why did you not increase the G to match the R and B rather than sacrificing overall light level by reducing R and B?

Any of the colors can be used for reference, it does not have to be the green. G is used by default for factory settings on new units and units with no changes on them, it is industry standard. But on units with some years on them and where the green has been changed, the rules may have to change too.

Don't really know anything until and unless what had to change is revealed and what changes were made.

b
I had to make a hardware adjustment. The settings in memory know nothing of that, that's why I had to reduce R and B in settings memory to compensate. I didn't go into details because I just thought you'd be well aware of the issues Sony (especially) had with their CRTs in their RPTVs in the early 2000s, it was all over the web and the video and A/V forums that were prominent then (e.g. especially all over HTS), what with RPTVs being so popular then and it being Sony. Most people just had their CRTs replaced (with Panasonic ones!), but I was not confident of the repair people and my version of the problem was relatively small. I made the HW adjustment a few years later when it got worse, bad enough to bother me, and it's never come back. I didn't have any instruments then.

I said 90IRE before; actually, it's somewhere between 90 and 100IRE that G goes to pot, it's measurably "perfect" up to 90 and really bad at 100. That's probably why I don't notice it during typical program material.

Actually, the light level is already far too bright for my pref, it's in the 50 range...so it's not exactly "turned down" compared to what I'm used to (30 ft-l). I'd like to turn it down if I can and still make a reasonable instrument "calibration".

It's good to know there's a gadget that does the HDMI-720p to component-1080i, but I really can't justify the expense for an old technology. The whole thing here is, as best I can gather, is that the games are actually 720p, but this TV doesn't "properly" do 720p. Sony did not force their developers to allow upscaling either, so as a result it's 720p or downscaling. 720p looks crappy on every TV I've ever seen that wasn't a native 720p display (I have some, but they are smaller). It is an artifact of a stupid Sony decision, even their large-screen TVs never did 720p decently, so it's doubly hard to figure (not that it's the first or hundredth weird decision they've made, along with the much rarer good ones these years...check out the PS4 for more bad ones though).

Edit: sorry for rambling so much. Bottom line is we essentially have a 720p-native source and nothing except (quite smaller, these days) 720p-native displays look good with it. I was hoping to find an inexpensive way to make a component 480p/i +1080i display look as good as possible with the 720p source. There is no "cheap" way. The cheapest way is to acquire a 720p display. Not that hard or expensive really for used (plasma), compared to a converter; I'll have to think about it.

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post #13036 of 13046 Old 06-20-2015, 01:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Your message is still very cryptic, and even tho I might know what you are talking about, chances are the readers here are not. So I always go a little overboard on my explanations of such things, just so everyone has a chance at the knowledge. Could I ask you to do the same, for the benefit of my readers (and me)?

In this case, however, I may have been far too busy with my brand new and glistening toy called HD to have noticed exactly what you are talking about, because no, I don't. I am not familiar with issues on green on Sonys of that time period. Please bring me up to speed.

G seldom has a Drive control anywhere in the works on these sets. It's generally kept at full tilt boogie and never attenuated, as the least efficient of the 3 colors. Drive controls - trimpots or service menu registers - usually only exist on the R and B colors, which only need to be turned down to match green, not up. The master Contrast settings are what escalate or diminish the energy of all 3 of the guns at once. Since green is always the least powerful compared to the other2 colors, the Green or "main drive" is set by setting the overall Contrast settings in service menu. I know of no independent mechanical setting for green drive on most sets, tho some of the more esoteric ceiling projectors may have had them. Are you saying that Sony had a Green drive setting, like R and B did? You may be right, been a while since I was into one of them.

So what hardware did you have to adjust? Am I correct in assuming HW means Height/Width? In what way does the G "go to pot" and what prompts that to happen? When you say "Actually, the light level is already far too bright for my pref, it's in the 50 range..." I take that to mean the 50% Contrast range until you specify with mentioning foot-lamberts later on in that sentence. Then I could nail down what you mean.

Please help me pin down my ambiguosities on what you are trying to say...

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post #13037 of 13046 Old 06-22-2015, 12:00 PM
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Free - Dallas Based Pioneer Elite 510 - Complete working condition. Someone who believes in the CRT's should be very interested in this TV. We are wanting/needing to upgrade to a larger TV finally after all of these years. My brother in law says to just take it apart and take it to the recycling center and I have a hard time with that since it still works great.

Mr. Bob fixed the cold solder problems on this set many years ago... it's in perfect working condition and the outside black lacquer is also blemish free. It has been in the same location since we bought it back in 2001 and never moved.

Must be able to pick it up and take it away.

email me if interested
Scott

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post #13038 of 13046 Old 06-22-2015, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Further proof that once the PS board has been resoldered in these sets by me personally, they go on to last forever.



b

PS - If you try to do this resoldering op yourself, or have a local do it, be aware that if you screw up in any way, I may not be able to help you. 2 PS boards have had to be kissed off so far where some other solderer tried to do this job and it failed and they brought it to me. I was not able to bring these 2 back to life, unfortunately, whatever mistakes had been made in their soldering efforts were too damaging for me to be able to save those boards. Tore my heart out. If they had come to me in the first place, those boards would have been fine and the sets they went to would still be alive.

Somebody snag this set! Not only did I save it years ago with curing the PS board, I also did a full Image Perfection calibration on it! Probably included the overscan reduction op. It has been taken care of impeccably by Scott and deserves a fine new home. If I were not already all set up - and lived closer - I would jump all over this!

And it's free!


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post #13039 of 13046 Old 06-29-2015, 12:16 PM
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Atlanta area technician?

Greets!

Anyone know of an Atlanta area technician I can trust my Toshiba 65HX81 to?

It did the flashing red light 'thing' when I tried to turn it on last night and while I once could have repaired it based on the info available if the parts can still be had, I've become so shaky in recent years that I could barely solder a water pipe last Winter with a propane torch, so no hope at circuit board/chip level.

Otherwise, I'll have no choice but to 'kick' it to the curb. That, or how hard would it be to convert its guts to a front projector or is it even 'powerful' enough to 'throw' a long enough distance at 1080i without a mirror?

TIA,

GM

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post #13040 of 13046 Old 06-30-2015, 09:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Unfortunately there's not much you can do with it if you can't get it to work. You could get another light box in there from a different CRT RPTV and use your set's mirror and screen...

Big projectors are not made for short throw folded projection like inside yours. They want a long throw distance from the projector to the screen, much longer than what you could do inside your set. We tried that with a ceiling projector and it was just not designed for it.

I hope you can get a tech in locally to help out. Tosh's are not real tech friendly, IMHO. I don't do repair work on them unless it's for the convergence system. I much prefer working on other brands. But they clean up and calibrate up really nice, once working again. Good luck on getting it fixed, and don't feel bad. Not all CRT RPTVs are DIY friendly, sometimes you just gotta spring for bringing a tech in.



b

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post #13041 of 13046 Old 07-01-2015, 09:35 PM
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Understood and supposedly it's normally one of two problems that if the parts are still available, they can be replaced without replacing the apparently unavailable circuit board.

Right, I meant removing the guns and associated electronics and converting it to a front projector. Seems I was told/read somewhere that the Toshiba guns were at one time used by Barco?.

I've only found one shop so far that seems to actively go after this niche business and their stated pricing seems reasonable; $75 to come out and figure out what it needs regardless of how long it takes, then $75/hr travel/repair time + parts of course.

Then again, they claimed that fixing this model might cost me as much as $250 if it's problem[s] is on the convergence board. Combined with a $350 [re]calibration and just 1080i, I'm having a hard time justifying it.

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post #13042 of 13046 Old 07-01-2015, 10:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Prices sound right. HDMI capability can be added for between $250-500. With the prices of flat panels having come down so far now, I agree that it's hard to justify a very unpredictable repair.

Not applicable in the case of the Pioneers, which have very readily remediable issues, but definitely applicable in the case of Toshibas.

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post #13043 of 13046 Old 07-04-2015, 08:11 PM
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Really?! Never seen it mentioned. I know there's cable converter boxes, but these don't allow the BD player to display BDs or upscaled DVDs at either 1080i or p, though the player's 'source direct' allows me to view BDs at 1080i.

If there's a conversion for mine, then it might be worth it, especially if it will do 1080p, as the new 4k panels I auditioned at Best Buy/Magnolia the other day with a 'best' of 120 Hz [actual] refresh rate left me wishing for a plasma or HDMI CRT for watching sports, fast action movies, though the OLED was quite impressive, especially its budget busting price.

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post #13044 of 13046 Old Yesterday, 09:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GPM View Post
Really?! Never seen it mentioned. I know there's cable converter boxes, but these don't allow the BD player to display BDs or upscaled DVDs at either 1080i or p, though the player's 'source direct' allows me to view BDs at 1080i.
How can a cable converter box play BDs?

Quote:
If there's a conversion for mine, then it might be worth it, especially if it will do 1080p, as the new 4k panels I auditioned at Best Buy/Magnolia the other day with a 'best' of 120 Hz [actual] refresh rate left me wishing for a plasma or HDMI CRT for watching sports, fast action movies, though the OLED was quite impressive, especially its budget busting price.

GM

A BD player itself will always allow you to see BD discs in 1080i or p on its HDCP-controlled HDMI output. In our case it's just a matter of whether the BDP puts out its 1080i on component or not. There was a crossover year where component OPs still existed on those players, but that was the year they throttled down all component OP from the player to 480p - put a governor on it, like putting a governor on your Mustang - and the 1080i/p would not get thru out of component anymore. Only via HDMI. After that year they removed component OPs from BDPs altogether. Except possibly the Oppo's, DK know about that.

But an attorney I did a cal for said that it was no longer legal to put component OP on BDPs that was 1080i capable. Before I knew this I bought a nice looking LG bluray player that one of my customers had found a great deal for me on, after I had dealt with his display. My thinking was that as long as it had component OPs, 1080i would come out of it. Always had. Tried it at home and that's when I found that the component OPs on the back to be totally useless for HD, they would only deliver 480p. There was a little ditty in the owner's manual about the 480p limit on the component OPs and not to expect 1080i out of it, even from BDs. It's available for what I paid for it if anybody wants it, I got a really good deal on it, it's still brand new in the box. The 480p on the component OPs is incredible. But it's just not 1080i. I'm kinda spoiled...

My transcoder will take in any standard video scanrate below 4K as HDMI and transcode it into any other standard video scanrate below 4K as component. 480i/p, 720p, 1080i/p to 480i/p, 720p, 1080i/p, your choice. Or get the less expensive version that simply converts HDMI to component or RGB, your choice.

You no longer have to buy new just to get HDMI capability to your CRT RPTV. This box works wonders, the picture it produces is second to none. It's like having nothing doing any conversions at all. It's like it's not even there.

It's wonderful for upconverting 480i standard DVDs to 1080i, which is only available on your BD player's OP via HDMI. The appearance of your content is incredible, if the standard 480i DVD is the only version you have, or that is available. A lot of classic movies will never be struck in bluray because there will never be enough sales of that particular movie to warrant the expense of having it printed in bluray, thousands of copies at a time. Small indie movies, old off the beaten path classics, bollywood movies... Very colorful but no. Not on bluray.

There's a huge contingent of great movies you will never find in bluray, it will never happen. But with the upconversion from 480i to 1080i happening inside the bluray player itself, where it's still in the digital domain and uncluttered by other conversions that happen downline from the digital domain, the faithfulness of the upconversion is just stellar.

This you can have on your 1080i component-only CRT RPTV, regardless of brand or model. HDMI capability.




b

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post #13045 of 13046 Old Today, 12:03 PM
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Mr. Bob was right

I first "met" Bob Jones when I was reading online discussions about HDTV's in 2000. I bought a Mitsubishi Diamond 55" HDTV in 2001 thanks in part to his early knowledge about HDTVs.

Jump forward to 2015 when I was ready to ditch my Mits and buy a new set. I was pleasantly surprised to see Bob was still active online discussing HDTV's and other electronics. I contacted him and he convinced me to let him make my TV look better than ever. Luckily I live in the Bay Area so Bob was close by. He spent over six hours bringing the TV back to a fantastic picture. He took the time to show me how to clean the set in the future, and then spent the remainder of the time calibrating the set to its full potential. After a couple of months, the picture continues to amaze me.

I heartily recommend Bob if you have a tired HDTV that could use a new life. You will not be disappointed. Thank you "Mr. Bob".
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post #13046 of 13046 Old Today, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, Tony. You really allowed my inner perfectionism free reign! These sets are immortal!



b

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convergence , Panasonic Tc P65v10 65 Inch 1080p Plasma Hdtv , Pioneer Elite , pioneer sd-p5181-k , Plasma Hdtv
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