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post #13201 of 13203 Old 02-04-2016, 03:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Sometimes I find internal lenses be glass, like 1 of the 4 inside the lens barrel. But have never seen the lenses that are actually exposed face up being glass, only plastic. Very soft and vulnerable to scratches - or scuffs, which are thousands of tiny scratches at once.

How are you getting your signal to your set? If it's with component, how is the SAP audio getting there? It has to be encoded in whatever signal your set receives. Using your set's tuner, with channel 3 picking up your cable box's RF modulated signal or your antenna feeding your set's tuner via the coax, you would not be getting HD.

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post #13202 of 13203 Old 02-08-2016, 07:01 PM
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A little further towards perfection...

Thanks for all your help Mr. Bob, much appreciated!

So here are my final results for now with the mirror cleaned and focus re-adjusted at mid light level as per your suggestion. I did have the optics completely removed and cleaned under them the first time I went in.

After getting that done, lately my time spent on it was trying to get convergence perfect; problem is, I tried your trick of lowering the master contrast in sm and in std and comp value by half and it doesn't apply when working in convergence. If I leave service menu, the changes takes effect, then when I go back in convergence service menu and hit the yellow button, it's full tilt boogie again... Is there something I am doing wrong or that's just how it is?

I attached a picture of my convergence screenshot, now where I am stuck is at mid left side of the screen in the middle I have some green line showing but the adjusting dots are on both side of those lines which seems to far because those ones are good... so how can I go to fix that...im stuck? Anybody got this problem before? :/


On another nore, for recalibrating the energies to the gun and all that, I do have a Xrite Colormunki Display color analyser and could probably figure a way to use that? If I do grayscale with it, what would be my next and final step?
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post #13203 of 13203 Old Today, 08:34 PM
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Well, tonight the wife and I took the plunge. After reading up on it, we attempted the deep optics clean (the remaining six surfaces) by ourselves. The good news is that the under lenses on the barrels did not need to be cleaned one iota, so we let those be. We had already done the top surface lenses with Mr. Bob on the phone so we knew how they should look, and they looked as clean as the top ones. The coolant covers, on the other hand had a light blanket of dust on them. We cleaned those out, put it back together, and then I proceeded to focus the optics via the cantilever technique. After that, I checked the electrostatic focus and got it pretty tight. And holy shi....!

Right now, we're sitting only 5.5 ft from the screen, and it's sharp as a tack! Absolutely beautiful display indeed! This is a 46-inch television and we're only sitting a hair further than 5 feet away from it. I actually have a 21.5 inch 1080p monitor that I hooked up earlier to my Blu Ray player at 1080p, and I swear that in our current seating position, the Rear Pro looks just as sharp as the LCD. Only difference is that the rear pro does have some slight loss of focus at the very edges (typical for CRT), but that's literally the ONLY thing in the LCD's favor. Everything else, the CRT destroys it.

I guess the next steps are the shimming mod, geometry redo, and convergence redo. I have already done the grayscale. Very good stuff indeed. Any bit of bleariness that was left over is now gone, and the damn television looks awesome.
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