Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 20 - AVS Forum
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post #571 of 3250 Old 09-08-2006, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Just my opinion - try turning black corrector OFF (likely crushing your blacks currently), gamma OFF, Pictures 88, Sharpness 25-30, Detailer Enhancer ON, color temp Warm 2. See my review on the A2000 posted in a separate thread for full setting details and explanations.

Thanks. Overall much impoved just with these changes. in addition to cushing blacks, one very obvious thing I noticed with fast moving sports (football) seems to be that the black corrector was it was adding artifacts to motion that disappeared when it was turned off. Appaent detail is also better when this is off.
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post #572 of 3250 Old 09-08-2006, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kanjibankers View Post

I found everything and changed them except:
CineMotion: Auto (is greyed out)
DRC: (86, 26) (is greyed out)

Couldnt find contrast either to change to your recommendation...

Contrast is the industry standard term. "Picture" is Sony's term for the exact same thing. Contrast=Picture.

CineMotion is only settable when watching a 480i program. That is, when the TV sees a 480i input signal, it enables the Cinemotion menu options. If what's actually happening is that your STB is receiving a 480i signal, and converting it to 1080i, and sending that converted 1080i signal to the TV, there's no way for the TV to know that the original program was 480i. To avoid this problem, you should configure your STB to avoid upconversion of signals, and just send them "as is." Some STBs can be so configured, and others cannot. Since the TV will do upconversion much better than an STB will, this is a major cause of poor SD picture quality.

The DRC menu is also only available when the TV is being fed a 480i signal.

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post #573 of 3250 Old 09-08-2006, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Googer View Post

Since I'm not 100% positive when I'll get back to working with my coworker's set, I figured I'd post the current settings for his set. These are subject to change if / when I figure out a way of altering the color primaries to be closer to the REC709 standards (red and especially green are pretty significantly oversaturated). Color primaries are not normally adjustable on most TV's but umr figured out a way of doing it on the A2000 he calibrated, so I'm not willing to give up on this goal just yet. Anyway, what follows is what my coworker's set is currently using:

User-menu:

Code:
Mode: Custom 
 
         Iris: Auto 2 
      Picture: 85 
   Brightness: 52 
        Color: 53 
          Hue: Centered (0?) 
    Sharpness: 30 
   Color temp: Warm 2 
 
     Advanced: All enhancements off 
White balance: Unchanged 
 
Other settings: 
 
  Power saving mode: On 
         Cinemotion: Auto 
       Color matrix: Custom, left at default settings 
                      (601 for 480i/p; 
                       709 for 720p/1080i/1080p)
-

Service menu (followed by explanations of what the settings do):

Code:
PANEL 
  3 WB 
    3 R_GAIN 127 (default 128) 
    4 G_GAIN 108 (default 109) 
    5 B_GAIN 72  (default 68) 
    6 R_BIAS 128 (unchanged) 
    7 G_BIAS 126 (unchanged) 
    8 B_BIAS 125 (default 127)
White balance - the settings above bring my coworker's set to extremely close to D65 at all IRE's >= 15 or so regardless of iris setting (dE <= 3 and <= 1 at 30+ IRE).

Code:
WEM SERVICE 
  011 col_lum axis_ycp.spf 
    000 RYB 0   (unchanged) 
    001 RYR 27  (default 32) 
    002 GYB 99  (unchanged) 
    003 GYR 146 (unchanged)
Color decoder - affects brightness of the RGB color primaries and hence the actual colors of the CMY secondaries - the above reduces red brightness a touch to eliminate the very minor red push that existed. Note that despite the set's oversaturated green primary, I left the color decoder's green settings unchanged because the green component of the cyan and yellow secondaries were already accurate when the color of green was taken into consideration.

Code:
WEM SERVICE 
  016 col_lum ycc_ccp.spf 
    000 CODL 8 (default 6) - 720p  
             7 (default 6) - 1080i 
             8 (default 7) - 480i/p
Chroma delay - used to fix colors being horizontally offset from the luma information in the picture - 720p was the worst offender before this fix. Note this isn't the same as misconvergence.

Code:
WEM SERVICE 
  057 pip_user_gm.spf 
    000 UGAM 53 (default 51 on HDMI, default 46 on component)
Gamma - optimizes gamma curve for a more natural / less "contrasty" image (subjectively this also seems to make green and red less objectionable and, more directly, also greatly helps dark scene details).

Code:
WEM SERVICE 
  108 sharp xspp_ccp.spf 
    014 YFLR 6 (default 5) - 1080i 
                 unchanged - other resolutions
The infamous low-pass filter fix.

-

Other miscellaneous notes:
  • The user-menu and service-menu settings are tuned for use with one another as some of them do affect one another. For example, before the service-menu gamma change, the correct brightness setting in the user menu was something in the 55-56 ballpark instead. Similarly, the color decoder settings are greatly affected by the user-menu color and hue settings.
  • I prefer doing the white balance tuning in the service menu over the user menu because the precision for fine-tuning it is greater, though ironically enough, lovingdvd claims he got his A2000's white balance tighter at the lower IRE's than I was able to using just the user-menu versions of these controls.
  • Since I last worked on my coworker's set, I played around with the user-menu gamma enhancement setting on my personal GWIII set (a Sony LCD projection set that's a nearly 3-year old model). Turning it up from the default of off does in fact decrease the gamma but it destroys the smooth gamma curve that off delivers. I haven't taken formal measurements to see if the same occurs on the A2000 (I haven't been back to my coworker's place since this test) but I would suspect the behavior is similar. The service menu gamma tweak I listed above reduced his gamma from ~2.6 to ~2.4 and remained perfectly smooth. If you want to go even closer to 2.2, try a value of 54 or maybe even 55 but I personally think (as do a decent number of professional calibrators) the image loses a bit too much 'pop' at that point and appears washed-out on many TV's.
  • One more setting I changed on my coworker's set that's definitely a setting only relevant to his specific set (though others that want to play with this will now know where to be be playing in the SM ):

    Code:
    PANEL 
      1 TG 
        26 VSFT_R 2 (default 1)
    
    The above offsets the red panel by 1 pixel vertically relative to the green and blue ones to improve convergence. There are settings here for all three panels, both horizontally and vertically (i.e., there are 6 settings total in the TG menu for this, plus other settings whose purpose I don't remember offhand )
  • I ordered a 70" XBR2 for myself today (9/8) which I expect will probably have a similar (but likely even more extensive) service menu to the A2000. With any luck once I have this set in my hands and calibrated I will figure out more tweaks that are applicable down the line to the A2000's as well.

Googer:
I had 3 default settings that were different:
G GAIN 110
B GAIN 71
B BIAS 128

To achieve similar greyscale results would I: A) Match your settings identically or
B) Make the numerically equivalent change ie... move B GAIN from my 71 to 75
to match your change of 68 to 72.

Also I did some research on Gamma and found out that most CRT's gamma are set at 2.5. Does Sony defaulting theirs at 2.6 have an impact on why the SXRD's have some of the best blacks of any microdisplay?
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post #574 of 3250 Old 09-08-2006, 10:40 PM
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There is variance from set to set, so the grayscale settings that are exactly spot-on from one set almost definitely aren't on another. It's interesting to note the different out-of-the-box defaults though, as that implies that Sony is actually doing some sort of calibration on the sets coming off the line (if this is actually the case I would guess it's a very fast automated one to get Warm 2 to roughly D65, since it actually wasn't too far off on either my coworker's set or the one that umr calibrated). The bottom line though is that it's a hard call on what would be 'right' for your set without instrumentation to see what's going on with it. Given that the grayscale on my coworker's set and the umr-calibrated one looks almost the same precalibration, you may want to take a look at the offset method (so lower R_GAIN by 1, G_GAIN by 1, raise B_GAIN by 4, and lower B_BIAS by 2) and see how that looks on yours. If you don't like what you see you can just read the old settings back in. Of course these changes will be fairly subtle so you may have a hard time noticing a difference at all (but for checking this, use grayscale ramps and B&W material and just remember that what you're looking for is that the 'color' of gray is consistent across all brightnesses).

The gamma doesn't really affect the black level at all; that's a function of the display itself and the brightness setting. Gamma too high will lead to everything that's supposed to be dark being pushed to nearly black though, which looks similar to (but isn't quite the same as) black crush (i.e., brightness set too low), and gamma too low will lead to dark details appearing more as mid-tones, which looks similar to (but again, isn't the same as) the set's brightness being set too high.
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post #575 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:12 AM
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I am currently writing down all of my service menu settings. Is anyone interested in me posting a list of all of the service menu options. Be warned that there are a lot of options and the post may be long. Or is there a better way to allow people to access this info.

RG
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post #576 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:45 AM
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Googer, thanks for all the great info you have posted. I'm really amazed at the flexibility available in the service menu.
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post #577 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 04:59 AM
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I'm amazed that your coworker is letting you mess with all of these service menus settings on his TV without fear of you breaking something.
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post #578 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 05:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randomcreek View Post

I just completed by basic adjustments and picture looks excellent and SHARP in HD!

Here are my observations. Note I'm using component video input and 1080i from new Dish Network (MPEG4 compression) HD box or OPPO 971 upscaling DVD player.

My initial settings in after using AVIA test patterns:
- YFLR = 6 (changed from 0) I will a/b test this later
- Detail Enhancment, Edge enhancdement OFF- (even low settings added some white edges around objects)
- Sharpness- minimum (although a couple notches up seemed okay, too)
- Advanced Iris=minimum
- picture = maximum (half way to maximum had no adverse effect on detail in test pattern so I went with the highest setting (which was factory default on this by the way)
- Brightness = 54
- Color = 45
- heu = 0
- noise reduction = off
I had to do a vertical shift to the right about 2 inches and also a horizontal shift down. the vertical shift is fine, but horizontal shift is maxed and still needs to move another inch.

The following are still at factory default because I haven't been able to test these yet.
- black corrector = high (not sure about this one yet)
- gamma = low (not sure ab out this one)
Any comments, questions or suggestions about the settings or the one's I haven't set yet would be great.

You have "picture" at maximum. Picture is Sony's term for contrast. A maximum setting is probably providing "white crush" where you lose detail in light areas. By using Avia or DVE (or even the test patterns on HDNet) you can dial this setting in correctly. You can see the effect by looking the face on a light facial complexion (e.g., a blond). You should see much more detail with a reduced picture setting.
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post #579 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zarak628 View Post

I'm amazed that your coworker is letting you mess with all of these service menus settings on his TV without fear of you breaking something.

He knows I do this stuff, having calibrated my TV's, plus his previous one, plus my dad's, my brother's, a few that some other friends own, .... Despite this he still gets nervous about me making any changes in there and nothing delights him more than when I'm playing with a setting and decide that the 'best' value for something is whatever it was already set to in the first place. Personally I say whatever since I'm 99.9% positive I'm not going to damage anything with the settings I'm willing to play with (and 100% positive for any setting changes I've actually posted here ) but I guess he still has it in his mind that Sony couldn't have possibly made the TV's default settings something suboptimal.
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post #580 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 07:59 AM
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Thanks Googer for increasing our knowledge of the Service Menu !

I have slight misconvergence (green on top - purple on bottom when viewing white lettering up close). I went into the PANEL - 1 TG - VSFT_G menu. Default setting was 1. If I changed the setting to 2 or 0 - the misconvergence was worse! The default 1 was the best setting. So..... I would estimate that my misconvergence is only about 1/3 pixel off !!

I guess we can be too picky sometimes. I feel a lot better now that my set is adjusted as best as is possible (besides - you can't see the misconvergence unless you stick your face up to the TV anyways).
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post #581 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 08:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ricgreen1 View Post

I am currently writing down all of my service menu settings. Is anyone interested in me posting a list of all of the service menu options. Be warned that there are a lot of options and the post may be long. Or is there a better way to allow people to access this info.

RG

I had a thought about recording the default settings, literrally. Imagine if you took a video camera and recorded the service menu settings as you flipped through them one at a time. You could flip through them very, very quicky. It could be done with a black screen in the background so that the service menu could be seen clearly. Then transfer it to the cpu, compress it, and upload it to YouTube.

For future reference if you need a default setting you could just find the part i the video near where your setting you are interested in is at and play it back until you see the values you want. Its a bit complicated, but a) its not prone to error like writing down all settings is, and b) it'll be a heck-of-a lot faster to record it.

I don't have have the capabilities to transfer the vid to the pc but I wanted to through this idea out there in case it inspires someone to give it a shot.
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post #582 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb View Post

You have "picture" at maximum. Picture is Sony's term for contrast. A maximum setting is probably providing "white crush" where you lose detail in light areas. By using Avia or DVE (or even the test patterns on HDNet) you can dial this setting in correctly. You can see the effect by looking the face on a light facial complexion (e.g., a blond). You should see much more detail with a reduced picture setting.

Actually in principle you are correct to think this would result in white crush, but actually with this model there is a lot of head room and no crush or clipping occurs at the higest setting. Whiter than white however will discolor a bit, which is why I recommend a max setting of Picture of 88 on this set. However for those needing that extra punch for daytime viewing you can easily go into the mid 90s without introducing much issue or even run at max, based on my observations.
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post #583 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cxgy View Post

Thanks Googer for increasing our knowledge of the Service Menu !

I have slight misconvergence (green on top - purple on bottom when viewing white lettering up close). I went into the PANEL - 1 TG - VSFT_G menu. Default setting was 1. If I changed the setting to 2 or 0 - the misconvergence was worse! The default 1 was the best setting. So..... I would estimate that my misconvergence is only about 1/3 pixel off !!

I guess we can too picky sometimes. I feel a lot better now that my set is adjusted as best as is possible (besides - you can't see the misconvergence unless you stick your face up to the TV anyways).

Yep, the minimum shift will be one pixel. Unless your convergence is uniformily off by more than a pixel those settings will not help much (because then things just shift the other way). The best thing to do is put up a cross hatch pattern and figure out where the greatest convergence error is (if any), then try adjusting that color to see if the end result is an overall improvement, taking all areas of the screen into account with a slight emphasis on the center and near-center areas.

BTW this is an excellent type of adjustment for a service menu to allow. Us Ruby owners would love this flexibility in the Ruby's service menu but it does not provide this support. Possibly Sony learned from that and this is why it is included (either that or perhaps something in RPTV technology allows it where front PJ tech does not).
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post #584 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cedar1079 View Post

If you don't feel comfortable going into the service menu, I wouldn't go in.

If you do want to hook up your PC, you will need a DVI->HDMI cable. Once connected you can display a number of patterns to test the resolution. The Mulitburst pattern should work, as well as a "vertical alternating 1-pixel-wide black and white lines" pattern described above by Covak.

Here are some links for some patterns:
http://www.w6rz.net/
http://www.videolan.org/ (needed to play .ts files)

Here is an article that explains:
http://www.hdtvexpert.com/pages_b/pipes.html

I just burned the "vertical alternating 1-pixel-wide black and white lines" pattern to an HD-DVD and they are visible on my 50A2000. I also burned one of the video clips from the above site on the same disc. Does anyone know of a link describing how to use the other patterns on that site?

DSKTexas
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post #585 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post


Noise Reduction: Off [HDMI/Internal Tuner] or Auto [Component]

You mention to set it to auto for component, but on component the setting is grayed out so im confused
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post #586 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgall View Post

You mention to set it to auto for component, but on component the setting is grayed out so im confused

Whether certain menu options are enabled or disable depends both on the type of connection (internal tuner, composite, S-Video, component or HDMI) but also on whether the incoming signal at that momement is 480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i or 1080p. It can be quite confusing.

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post #587 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:15 PM
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ok well using a component conection at 1080i setting noise reduction to auto is not allowed.

Have people noticed better results using a pass through method for stb's?

I figured since the TV is upconverting everything to 1080p it's not gonna be a world of difference.

Plus you have the wait for the TV to refresh everytime you switch to a station with different res
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post #588 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgall View Post

ok well using a component conection at 1080i setting noise reduction to auto is not allowed.

Have people noticed better results using a pass through method for stb's?

I figured since the TV is upconverting everything to 1080p it's not gonna be a world of difference.

Plus you have the wait for the TV to refresh everytime you switch to a station with different res

Compare a 720p signal with the STB doing "native" output vs. 1080i output.

Native requires only scaling by the SXRD.

1080i requires scaling and interlacing by the STB; and then deinterlacing by the SXRD.

In theory, native should be better. With my ISF'ed XBR1 and HD Tivo, I can normally tell a subtle difference (but the native is definitely better). There is less processing (no interlacing/deinterlacing) and I believe the SXRD does better scaling than the HD Tivo. Unfortunately with the HD Tivo, I must toggle/select the output; but with the HR20 replacement there will be an automatic "native" mode.
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post #589 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgall View Post

Have people noticed better results using a pass through method for stb's?

I figured since the TV is upconverting everything to 1080p it's not gonna be a world of difference.

With the SA 8300HD I have, you can set it to "pass through" all the resolutions. I think it makes a world of difference. Having the STB do the converting looked unacceptable and quite bad.
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post #590 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 01:59 PM
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I have an SA 8300D. I'll give it a try. Just will have to get used to the tv refreshing
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post #591 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonWW View Post

With the SA 8300HD I have, you can set it to "pass through" all the resolutions. I think it makes a world of difference. Having the STB do the converting looked unacceptable and quite bad.

That's a nice feature. I've been requesting that same thing from the Comcast DVR for years to no avail.
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post #592 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 02:04 PM
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I don't have an issue with the TV refreshing. What exactly do you mean by that?
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post #593 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 02:13 PM
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Not everything is happy land with the 8300HD. Mine just went out again. Digital portion won't activate. This happened a week or 2 ago. Took me a couple of days to figure it out. I did a hard reboot and then let it sit for about 4 hours. I'm going to run down and pick up a new one right now and hopefully my current one will power up later on. If it does I'll watch the stuff on the HDD and then turn it back in. This is starting to get irritating.
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post #594 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 02:51 PM
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Here is a list of all of the service menu options on my kds60a2000
Lets see if we can figure out what some of these do.

HDMI
-----------
SYNC 1
VFMT 5
MODE 0
CSPC 0
CMTR 0
HRES 2200
HDE 1920
HFP 88
VRES 1125
VDE 1080
VFP 4
SASP 8
PASP 0
CHS0 0
CHS1 0
CHS2 0
CHS3 0
CHS4 0

HDMI_VER
-----------
VERL 2
VERS 5
OP 1

US_TUNER
-----------
MAFT DYNAMIC VALUE
MVDT 1
MSFR 2460
MMFT 128
M_AFT 1
SAFT 65535
SVDT 1
SSFR 0
SMFT 1
S_AFT 1

DELAY_1
-----------
ADIX 11
IDR1 17
IDR2 13
IDR3 13
IDR4 0
IDR5 0
PDRC 0
ISKP 13
PSKP 9
GAME 0
PC 9
OPU1 0
OPU2 0
OPU3 0
OFSL 0
OFSH 0

AUD_MAP2
-----------
BBE 2
BBGA 12
BTEQ 0
EQUP 200
EQDN 56
BASS 8
TRE 9
EQD 72
EQM1 187
EQM2 146
EQM3 157
EQM4 178
EQM5 176
EQM6 173
EQM7 130
EQB1 59
EQB2 18
EQB3 29
EQB4 50
EQB5 48
EQB6 45
EQB7 2

AUD_MAP3
-----------
SSPK 18
SHP 20
SSC1 19
SSC2 19
SQPD 13
SSPI 18
SPDF 18

AUD_MAP5
-----------
CTRL 0
HARD 5
FMLY 0
RVIS 11
PROD 20
ROMV 102
QPKL 0
QPKR 0
BTDL 12

OP
-----------
DELAY1 0
DELAY2 10
DELAY3 20
DELAY4 15
DELAY5 100
DELAY6 15
DELAY7 15
DELAY8 15
DELAY9 15
DELAY10 0
DELAY11 0
DELAY12 10
DELAY13 10
DELAY14 10
DELAY15 40
DELAY20 20
DELAY21 120
DELAY22 120
DELAY23 120
DELAY24 120
DELAY25 120
DELAY26 10

cc
-----------
DSL1_M 5
CSYS1_M 4
CSYS0_M 6
CRIP_M 222
CSTB_M 61
CDTH_M 165
DSL1_S 7
CSYS1_S 7
CSYS0_S 7
CRIP_S 255
CSTB_S 255
CDTH_S 255
CCDD 10

DEV_ERR
-----------
ERROR_BACKEND 0
ERROR_CXA2239 0
ERROR_MAP4400 0
ERROR_CXA2188 0
ERROR_CX9826 0
ERROR_HDMI 0
ERROR_CCPXA 0
ERROR_CA401 0
ERROR_PA403Z 0

VERSION
-----------
VER_DISP_ENBL 0

INFORST
-----------
MODEL_INFO_RST 0


CXA2239
-----------
GAIN1_1 0
OUT1_GR 7
OUT1_GG 7
OUT1_GB 7

S_CCPX
-----------
CVYL 175
CVCL 128
SHUE 32
MEAS 0
FMTLEV_Y1 0
FMTLEV_CB1 0
FMTLEV_CR1 0
FMTLEV_YCB1 0
FMTLEV_Y2 0
FMTLEV_Y3 0
FMTLEV_Y4 0

There is more to the service menu.
I think the above are just the settings from the regular menu.
Will post more soon.
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post #595 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonWW View Post

I don't have an issue with the TV refreshing. What exactly do you mean by that?

If the STB is outputting "native" and a channel change results in a different resolution, the STB and SXRD must start "hand shaking" and TV must determine input resolution and then change accordingly.
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post #596 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb View Post

If the STB is outputting "native" and a channel change results in a different resolution, the STB and SXRD must start "hand shaking" and TV must determine input resolution and then change accordingly.

OK, I think it's like 2 seconds for me. Plus I don't flip through the channels much, there's too many. I usually tune right to the one I want. Maybe that's why I'm not noticing the delay.
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post #597 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 08:44 PM
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I just received a new KDS50A2000 to replace my last set that had some purple discoloration in one corner. The color uniformity on this set is better but I have noticed that the picture is tilted slightly at angle. If you are watching program with vertical or horizontal bars, you can notice that the width of the bars is not even across the screen because of the tilt. Is there any way to adjust the tilt angle of the picture without calling a tech (service menu settings?) I would like to keep this set and don't know whether this problem is important enough to warrant a tech messing with the TV.
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post #598 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lovingdvd View Post

Actually in principle you are correct to think this would result in white crush, but actually with this model there is a lot of head room and no crush or clipping occurs at the higest setting. Whiter than white however will discolor a bit, which is why I recommend a max setting of Picture of 88 on this set. However for those needing that extra punch for daytime viewing you can easily go into the mid 90s without introducing much issue or even run at max, based on my observations.

This is what I observed too. the AVIA test has light grey bars in the AVIA test overlayed on a white background. These grey bars never disappear into the white background even when the picture setting is turned all the way up. As with black level, after I do the test setting, I then do a minor re-adjust watching real world material. Again I didn't see any negative effects with the setting all the way up, so I've left it there for now.
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post #599 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 09:25 PM
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I've notices that when I get close to my tv and look at white letters, I can see green on top and red below the letters so it's verticaly off. I assume this is the convergence problem I've seen mentioned. I can't tell how much it's off but I don't see it from where I sit. Has anyone found an adjustment for this in the service menu yet? Everything else on the TV is perfect so I'm not about to exchange it for something I can see unless I'm close to the set.
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post #600 of 3250 Old 09-09-2006, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gogators93 View Post

I've notices that when I get close to my tv and look at white letters, I can see green on top and red below the letters so it's verticaly off. I assume this is the convergence problem I've seen mentioned. I can't tell how much it's off but I don't see it from where I sit. Has anyone found an adjustment for this in the service menu yet? Everything else on the TV is perfect so I'm not about to exchange it for something I can see unless I'm close to the set.

Googer may need to answer this one for you as this is almost certainly a service menu item. I just looked upclose and my set (which is at least an August build based on the Serial numbers) doesn't have this problem. in fact, early tonight I was impressed with how clear and legible the fine print at the bottom of a commercial appeared. I'm starting to get the picture dialed in - it's nice and sharp with good source material.
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