Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 62 - AVS Forum
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post #1831 of 3250 Old 01-10-2007, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OhioPatriot View Post

I just had to post again. This 3rd 50A2000 is SPOT ON!! And after everything I am beside myself in SXRD Heaven!! Watched bowl game on ESPNHD earlier and now Pirates of the Carribean and the set is just PERFECT! No green,no nothin, but everything I wanted when I first bought this Sony. Stunning! I know I am gushing, but it really looks that good. Just wanted to let everyone know that this model really is,when right, what it claims to be. HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!

OhioPatriot,

Congratulations. That is really great! NO GREEN! I only hope that I can get my green problem resolved on my A2000 and I will be singing the same song that you are.
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post #1832 of 3250 Old 01-10-2007, 09:30 PM
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Thanks for answering my question! Now i have my TV working thru the hdmi cable.
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post #1833 of 3250 Old 01-10-2007, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVBill View Post

A few people messaged me asking me to post my Xbox 360 and Nintendo Wii settings for the A2000. I put them on the first page of this settings-tweaks thread so that I could easily reference and update them in the future as needed.

My current A2000 settings
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8133857

I hope this helps!

I read your settings for the 360 and was just curious as to why you use 1080i? I'm not saying that you shouldn't just wondering the reasoning. I had heard that the games were 720p native, so by letting the signal go native to the set and letting the set upscale it you'd be better off? Is this false logic or does it really just boil down to personal preference?
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post #1834 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 05:00 AM
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I have Time-Warner Cable (Central NY) with a Pace DC-550p hd box...If i connect the cable box to my kds-60a2000 via HDMI it will pass the signal as 480p...If i connect the cable box via component cables it will pass the signal as 480i...I have read the various posts and am making the settings so that my SD signal looks good...so far, i have seen little impact on the HD channels with component versus hdmi...yes - i know hdmi is better...however, if i let 480i flow to the tv, i can use the drc funtions, cinemotion function, etc to tweak the sd picture...soooo - my question is: knowing that i'll lose a "little" by using component versus hdmi for the cable box to tv connection, am i better off passing 480i to the tv and using the drc functions/etc or should i just let the component connection pass it as 480p and just tweak from there?...it seems like i get a better SD picture with 480i and drc/etc settings versus 480p passed to the tv...any comments/advice are welcome...
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post #1835 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeless View Post

I read your settings for the 360 and was just curious as to why you use 1080i? I'm not saying that you shouldn't just wondering the reasoning. I had heard that the games were 720p native, so by letting the signal go native to the set and letting the set upscale it you'd be better off? Is this false logic or does it really just boil down to personal preference?

Yes, virtually all the Xbox 360 games are 720p. However, the A2000 is a fixed pixel 1080p panel. It can't display true per-pixel 720p. Even when inputting a 720p signal, the A2000 needs to scale it to 1080p before displaying it. The Xbox 360 has a solid scaling chip built into that (called Ana) which scales better than the A2000 (IMO). While conventional wisdom might suggest that the A2000 would do the best job scaling the 720p image to 1080p, I didn't find that to be the case with the 360. To my eyes, the image is clearly sharper when the Xbox 360 scales to 1080i, and the A2000 deinterlaces it (look for small details in the distance within 360 games to confirm this). I find it funny that my $400 console subjectively scales better than my $3000 TV. It shows me how poor the built in scaling solutions are on these TVs. Obviously, forcing the A2000 to deinterlace can add deinterlacing artifacts, but I feel the increase in perceived resolution far outweighs any minor deinterlacing artifacts.

Xbox 360 Ana Info (Not a high end Gennum scaler, but not bad either)
http://arstechnica.com/articles/headstart.ars/2

Hopefully Microsoft releases an HDMI capable Xbox 360 so we can feed a 1080p signal to our A2000s.

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post #1836 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVBill View Post

Yes, virtually all the Xbox 360 games are 720p. However, the A2000 is a fixed pixel 1080p panel. It can't display true per-pixel 720p. Even when inputting a 720p signal, the A2000 needs to scale it to 1080p before displaying it. The Xbox 360 has a solid scaling chip built into that (called Ana) which scales better than the A2000 (IMO). While conventional wisdom might suggest that the A2000 would do the best job scaling the 720p image to 1080p, I didn't find that to be the case with the 360. To my eyes, the image is clearly sharper when the Xbox 360 scales to 1080i, and the A2000 deinterlaces it (look for small details in the distance within 360 games to confirm this). I find it funny that my $400 console subjectively scales better than my $3000 TV. It shows me how poor the built in scaling solutions are on these TVs. Obviously, forcing the A2000 to deinterlace can add deinterlacing artifacts, but I feel the increase in perceived resolution far outweighs any minor deinterlacing artifacts.

Xbox 360 Ana Info (Not a high end Gennum scaler, but not bad either)
http://arstechnica.com/articles/headstart.ars/2

Hopefully Microsoft releases an HDMI capable Xbox 360 so we can feed a 1080p signal to our A2000s.

Seems like the XBox would be outputting less vertical resolution as well as less temporal information if it has to break down and interlace a 720p game to 1080i. Then on top of that the Sony would have to deinterlace it to generate 1920x1080 frames. You will only be sending 540 vertical lines every 60th/sec rather than 720. Whereas if you sent a 720p signal to the Sony it would just scale each 1280x720 frame to 1920x1080 at 60fps.

However, if the picture looks better the way you run it, then it is the best way. Maybe when you set the 360 to 1080i it actually renders the game in 1080p then interlaces it. That would make for a better picture than converting 720p to 1080i then to 1080p.

Just a thought...

Sean
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post #1837 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dm145 View Post

Not sure what you are up to but, reading the last part of your post sounded very familiar. So, I went back to the A2000 owners thread and sure enough you posted the same thing word for word. Is this the subtle, Sony bashing approach?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ht=perceptible


No, not in the least. Was just hoping that someone here in the tweaks thread might have furhter advice on how to negate these effects via calibration. How could it be considered "sony bashing" when I say more than once how great of a set it is otherwise and that my other TV which I consider to have flawless color is also a sony? Sorry if I bothered you or offended anyone....geeez

-m
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post #1838 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 11:09 AM
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I hope this is the right forum for this question..if not I am sorry.

I have a 55A2000 hooked to Dishnetwork HD VIP 622 receiver. My question is this, Dish broadcasts a 720P or a 1080i signal if I understand correctly. The Sony up converts to 1080p, coreect? So which setting on Dish do you recommend for the best picture on the set..720P or 1080i? I currently have my receiver set to 720p as I understand a progressive picture is better than an interlaced..but I am no expert.

Thanks for your time and comments.
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post #1839 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 11:15 AM
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You should get a better picture set to 1080i - although it's a pretty easy test to double check-
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post #1840 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 02:11 PM
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I have tried both, letting the cable box (motorola dvr/hd) output 1080i, and output 720p and let the sony do the upconverting to 1080i. I can't really tell the difference but I would think that the sony would do the better job.
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post #1841 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 02:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean_S View Post

Seems like the XBox would be outputting less vertical resolution as well as less temporal information if it has to break down and interlace a 720p game to 1080i. Then on top of that the Sony would have to deinterlace it to generate 1920x1080 frames. You will only be sending 540 vertical lines every 60th/sec rather than 720. Whereas if you sent a 720p signal to the Sony it would just scale each 1280x720 frame to 1920x1080 at 60fps.

However, if the picture looks better the way you run it, then it is the best way. Maybe when you set the 360 to 1080i it actually renders the game in 1080p then interlaces it. That would make for a better picture than converting 720p to 1080i then to 1080p.

Just a thought...

Sean

I think it is pretty straight-forward. The Xbox 360 renders at 720p, and I believe it upscales to 1080p (breaking each frame into 2 1080i fields upon output). There are no Xbox 360 games that render at 1080p currently (though they may come in the future).

Yes, 720p is sometimes subtly smoother than 1080i. However few games output a sustained 60 fps. Even when they do (such as Burnout Revenge), the theoretical decrease in smoothness is far less noticeable to me than the clear increase in screen resolution offered by the 360's 1080i upscale. Once the 360 has a 1080p HDMI output (hopefully) this will be a moot point.

It is too bad our A2000s don't read 1080p in via component or VGA. Still I don't really blame Sony for the component oversight, since most TVs in the market also lack 1080p over component inputs. However, the A2000's VGA support is a joke (I little window for low resolutions and no 1080p support). Fortunately, I'm still happy with my A2000.

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post #1842 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 02:40 PM
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Please note that I run my Series 3 HD Tivo at the native resolution of the content (i.e. I like the A2000's upscale better than the Tivo's). For TV, the A2000 does reasonable with its upscale (likely not best in class or anything). However, the Xbox 360 and just about any Oppo (even the 970) top the A2000's upscale IMO. The difference is likely subtle for most. I'm a details person, so it looks vastly different to me.

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post #1843 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVBill View Post

While conventional wisdom might suggest that the A2000 would do the best job scaling the 720p image to 1080p, I didn't find that to be the case with the 360. To my eyes, the image is clearly sharper when the Xbox 360 scales to 1080i, and the A2000 deinterlaces it (look for small details in the distance within 360 games to confirm this).

Any comparison photos of this? I've looked hard, and I can't see it. I must not be looking at the right stuff.
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post #1844 of 3250 Old 01-11-2007, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVBill View Post

Please note that I run my Series 3 HD Tivo at the native resolution of the content (i.e. I like the A2000's upscale better than the Tivo's). For TV, the A2000 does reasonable with its upscale (likely not best in class or anything). However, the Xbox 360 and just about any Oppo (even the 970) top the A2000's upscale IMO. The difference is likely subtle for most. I'm a details person, so it looks vastly different to me.

I also run my TiVo HD Series 3 at the native resolution into my A2000 too for the best results. The TiVo HD is an amazing product!
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post #1845 of 3250 Old 01-12-2007, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by EricM407 View Post

Any comparison photos of this? I've looked hard, and I can't see it. I must not be looking at the right stuff.

What do you have sharpness and detail enhancement set to? If sharpness is too high, it might be adding extra information around the edges of objects (ringing) which might make it harder to discern the true resolution. I set sharpness to 30, and detail enhancement to high (and I NEVER use vivid). I look at the cars off in the distance in Burnout Revenge. I look at my Oblivion background and the text in the dashboard. I look at the in game cinemas in Gears of War. Just switch back and forth on a still image (or watch the same cinema with each). I notice the most improvement around the edges. The edge lines often look thicker/less-defined at 720p, and thinner/sharper at 1080i. If you really don't notice a difference, then I guess it doesn't matter which resolution you output.

Also, how close do you sit to your TV? I'm at 8' from a 60" A2000.

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post #1846 of 3250 Old 01-12-2007, 05:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AVBill View Post

What do you have sharpness and detail enhancement set to? If sharpness is too high, it might be adding extra information around the edges of objects (ringing) which might make it harder to discern the true resolution. I set sharpness to 30, and detail enhancement to high (and I NEVER use vivid). I look at the cars off in the distance in Burnout Revenge. I look at my Oblivion background and the text in the dashboard.

Sharpness 30, NR Off, DE Low, EE Off.

I can't try any games at the moment because my console's freezing, and I'm waiting for my coffin to arrive.

Checking the dashboard text's easy, so I just did it. If somebody else was changing the setting and asking me to say which it was, I could do nothing more than a wild guess. Maybe my vision's not so good. I can see a noticeable difference in sharpness levels and DE steps though, so I should be able to discern this?
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post #1847 of 3250 Old 01-12-2007, 08:20 PM
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in regards to the green haze. i notice it is channel related. On some channels the green is worse then other channels. has anyone seen the green haze on dvd source or xbox/ps3 sources?

i havent noticed it on my 2 dvd sources and i do not have any video game system hooked up to it.

i have time warner cable here in NY using SA8300HD box. Im wondering if its source related????

anyways, anyone have any success completley getting rid of the green?

here are my settings for my 60a2000

Picture Mode: Custom
Iris: Max
Picture: 88
Brightness: 60
Color: 43
Hue: R1
Color Temp: Neutral (gives me whitest whites)
Sharp: 15
Noise Reduction: Medium

Advanced:
Black Corrector: Low
Gamma: Max
Clear White: Low
Live Color: High (helps with green haze)
Detail Enhance: High
Edge Enhance: Off

White Balance:
R gain : -1
G gain: -5
B gain: -1
G bias: -2
B bias: 0

to me its better than seeing green faces.

let me know if anyone has anything to say about my settings.

lata.
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post #1848 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 02:22 AM
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Why do most people turn off all of the advanced setting? I turned them off and my picture looks very soft with not much detail. Definitely not high definition looking. After resetting these only (advanced settings) back to factory, my picture looks LOTS better.

Is it ok to leave them at the factory setting? To my eyes, they look better at the factory defaults.
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post #1849 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 03:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goceltics34 View Post

Why do most people turn off all of the advanced setting? I turned them off and my picture looks very soft with not much detail. Definitely not high definition looking. After resetting these only (advanced settings) back to factory, my picture looks LOTS better.

Is it ok to leave them at the factory setting? To my eyes, they look better at the factory defaults.

Well... you should probably turn MOST of them off! For quite a few reasons, but... to make sure the picture looks sharp - turn DETAIL ENHANCEMENT to MAX..... and almost all the other stuff OFF in CUSTOM MODE.

I support High Definition Content regardless of color!
ISF Calibration is my friend, and should be yours too
Enjoying TrueHD, DTS:MA and LPCM
OAR - What else is there!?
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post #1850 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Is it ok to leave them at the factory setting? To my eyes, they look better at the factory defaults.

Just depends what you want, if you want a 100% accurate picture then the settings go off but if you want a bit more "pop" in the picture then use them. I personally have them set at default except for the Black Corrector which I turned off since you lose some black detail because it gets shifted blacker for emphasis. I compensated by lowering the brightness 3 down to 47 since it did get a bit brighter.
Bottom line is set it up the way you like it the most!
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post #1851 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 05:15 AM
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On the tv itself the description for High Density besides other things says use it for moving pictures; Progressive is for still and text.
In the manual it says High Density is for high quality sources and Progressive is for moving pictures!
One says Progressive is for stills the other says Progressive is for moving pictures?
Does anyone know the answer? I switch back and forth and cannot see any difference viewing stills or moving pictures.
Thanks
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post #1852 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 05:42 AM
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In a crazy attempt to try to use the Sony kds-60a2000 remote for most of my devices, i'm trying to figure out if it will work for my Dell 8400 Windows Media Center 2005 (mce) computer...I've searched this forum for hours to no avail...Any insights would be great...(yes - i know i should probably just go out and buy a universal learning remote!)...but figured i'd try first...
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post #1853 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 09:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REFLEX View Post

Well... you should probably turn MOST of them off! For quite a few reasons, but... to make sure the picture looks sharp - turn DETAIL ENHANCEMENT to MAX..... and almost all the other stuff OFF in CUSTOM MODE.

Like Reflex, I typically set everything to 'off' except Detail Enhancement...it's usually set to max. However, I mostly watch HD-DVD. If I watch TV, especially NTSC, I back that off.

We had a debate several pages back (or was it in the big thread?) about Detail Enhancement and whether or not it should be called 'softness control'.

The only other setting I commonly mess with when watching 'TV' (cable) is 'Noise Reduction'. Sometimes I see mosquito noise and it bugs me (ha ha) so I set it to low. I guess it makes the picture a tad softer, but I'll take that over the noise.

Calibration and defaults are nice to get you to a good starting point, but after that, it's all about what is most pleasing to your eye. You are the boss. Heck, I calibrated my sound system with a Phonic PAA2 (really cool tool) and then when I was done, I turned up my sub just a tad more because it wasn't giving me enough punch. So, 'accurate' is not always the most enjoyable, but again, it's a great place to start.

The more I know, the more I realize I don't know.
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post #1854 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 09:48 AM
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I year you all. I think I may leave them at factory defaults because to my eyes, they are more satisfying. That's what's most important anyways, right?

I love that "pop, wow" factor. I didn't get that when I turned everything off. Maybe it's a big gimmicky, but hey it works for me.

BTW, when I play PS3 games (Tiger Woods), my setting automatically switches to VIVID and the picture looks STUNNING! I don't mind the overexerattion of color because, after all, it's a video game.

Any thoughts???
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post #1855 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goceltics34 View Post

I year you all. I think I may leave them at factory defaults because to my eyes, they are more satisfying. That's what's most important anyways, right?

I love that "pop, wow" factor. I didn't get that when I turned everything off. Maybe it's a big gimmicky, but hey it works for me.

BTW, when I play PS3 games (Tiger Woods), my setting automatically switches to VIVID and the picture looks STUNNING! I don't mind the overexerattion of color because, after all, it's a video game.

Any thoughts???

Again, most pleasing to your eyes wins. However, as I found out when calibrating my car audio system, you may make settings to get things 'accurate' in combinations that you wouldn't normally try and then once you arrive at 'accurate', you may like it better there. Or, you may adjust slightly away from accurate and find happiness there.

If you are in Vivid (aka torch mode), initially toning down your colors may make things look bland. But, after you get used to it, you may like it better.

My sister's family recently got a 50" plasma and they have it in torch mode. They love it, but when I last visited, things looked unrealistic to me and I didn't enjoy the picture. When I watch a football game, I wants the jerseys and the grass to look realistic; not like they're battery-powered. I was happy to get back to my SXRD (which has only been mildly calibrated; I'm waiting for DVE on HD-DVD).

If you want to show off your TV to people that know a thing or two about TV's and picture accuracy, they may not be impressed with an uncalibrated box.

Just for fun, try the CNET settings for a few days and see what you think. They are no means the best, but most find them better than factory defaults. If you see an improvement and like to tinker, get a calibration disk. If you don't want to tinker, get an ISF calibration and then customize from there (but write down your settings first!).

Cnet Settings

Just my two cents.

The more I know, the more I realize I don't know.
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post #1856 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RaptorX View Post

Again, most pleasing to your eyes wins. However, as I found out when calibrating my car audio system, you may make settings to get things 'accurate' in combinations that you wouldn't normally try and then once you arrive at 'accurate', you may like it better there. Or, you may adjust slightly away from accurate and find happiness there.

If you are in Vivid (aka torch mode), initially toning down your colors may make things look bland. But, after you get used to it, you may like it better.

My sister's family recently got a 50" plasma and they have it in torch mode. They love it, but when I last visited, things looked unrealistic to me and I didn't enjoy the picture. When I watch a football game, I wants the jerseys and the grass to look realistic; not like they're battery-powered. I was happy to get back to my SXRD (which has only been mildly calibrated; I'm waiting for DVE on HD-DVD).

If you want to show off your TV to people that know a thing or two about TV's and picture accuracy, they may not be impressed with an uncalibrated box.

Just for fun, try the CNET settings for a few days and see what you think. They are no means the best, but most find them better than factory defaults. If you see an improvement and like to tinker, get a calibration disk. If you don't want to tinker, get an ISF calibration and then customize from there (but write down your settings first!).

Cnet Settings

Just my two cents.


I will give it a try for a couple of days and see if I get used to the picture. Your right, I might like it better after I "adjust".

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
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post #1857 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 04:12 PM
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I got any XBOX 360 with this unit, how much improvement would i see on my DVD's with an OPPO 981 unit than on my 360?
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post #1858 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 06:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gemada
Hi;

i followed the steps and all went well until step 10. when i did step 10, my tv goes blank and says "unsupported signal". Can anyone tell me their custom powerstrip settings so i can compare? thanks!

I believe I have an answer for those of you that want a good quality PC display on your KDS-A2000 Sony HDTV, without the huge waste of space that the Sony-recommended setting of 1280x768 gives you on the VGA input (roughly 30% of screen unused). It's an alternative to what GhettoD proposed (1824x1020), as I seem to experience issues with getting his method to work with my ATI based laptops (Sony TV displays a complaint that it's not a supported resolution no matter what tweaks in PowerStrip I tried).

See attached pdf for detailed information, including walk-thru of exact PowerStrip configuration. I plan to also post a picture of VGA versus HDMI PC displays on my KDS-55A2000 soon.

Others may have luck with my proposed, on-the-cheap and fairly simple method of getting crisp PC video on the KDS-A2000s with a small black border all around (about 1.5" of black), far surpassing the clarity and size of the meager PC VGA input. If somebody figures out a way to get multiple brands of video cards to reliably display without overscan cropping, ideally without any 3rd party software or registry hacking, I'm certainly all for that. Meanwhile, here's what I've found works for me.

==================================================

Displaying my PC video really comes in handy when my consoles won't render a certain content, like Macromedia flash (Wii), or my old Adobe Photoshop album-created pdf slideshows with sound. And despite my Xbox 360 and its impressive Media Center extender abilities, and my TiVos ability to do music and sound too, sometimes I just wish I could display a full PC to an audience in my family room. Gets around DRM issues too.

Well, I've come up with a cheap, and fairly easy way to do this, likely with less than an hour of initial setup, and perhaps extensible to many others who have the
Prerequisites:
\tPC with DVI output
\tKDS-A2000 series TV, with available HDMI input
\tPowerstrip 3.73 from http://www.entechtaiwan.net/util/ps.shtm, for XP
Details of my tested hardware configuration:
\tIBM ThinkPad T30 and T41, both with ATI chipset, and both with 1400x1050 LCD displays
\tXPSP2
\tlatest ATI Video Drivers as recommended by Lenovo ThinkVantage System Update as of Jan 12 2007 (no hacked or special driver used)
\tT41 2373-9FU used ATI Mobility Radeon 9000 with 5/25/2005 6.14.10.6546 driver
\tT30 2366-GU1 used ATI Mobility Radeon 7500 with 5/25/2005 6.14.10.6546
Pros:
\tclearer picture than VGA input, with vivid and accurate color rendition
\tno special driver needed (for ATI anyhow)
\tfast less wasted space
\table to remotely control with reasonably common PCs, without resorting to scaling
\tonce configured in Powerstrip, easy to re-apply, and doesn't require IBM/Lenovo Presentation Director
\tyou can do 600x800 fine externally with black bars at the edges and no need for PowerStrip software, but 1152x648 will look better of course and fill the screen far better
Cons:
\tdoesn't quite meet the edge of screen, roughly 5% of screen is wasted
\tstill need to do minor tweaks to get image centered, just during initial PowerStrip setup
\tif using a laptop, need to toggle to external only monitor, prior to setting PowerStrip to proper mode

I wish I could have gotten the "Gemada" suggested 1824x1020 resolution working, as that would use the 1080i mode of the TV instead of the 720p mode
If doing dual-desktop, can't seem to get PowerPoints or other full-screen apps to behave, as they apparently expect "standard" resolutions, as the secondary display only shows ~2/3 of the content. So, given it's a single screen, dealing with blank local PC/laptop screen can be made easier by either:
\tusing remote control software (LogMeIn.com or VNC or similar app) on a WiFi connected laptop, to facilitate control of what is onscreen on the TV
\tusing a wireless mouse/keyboard, and directly controlling the onscreen display
LL
LL

 

1152x648 PC display using the 720p mode of Sony KDS-A2000 and a DVI to HDMI cable 2007-01-13.pdf 382.3466796875k . file

Sony KDL-55HX800 LED LCD TV
(replaced KDL-55EX710, which replaced '06 KDS-55A2000 Rear Projection)
Sony STR-DA5600ES AV Receiver
(replaced STR-DA5300ES)
Sony BDP-S370 Blu-ray
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post #1859 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 08:48 PM
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I have uploaded "resolution comparisons on Sony HDTV.pdf" which runs a slideshow of the jpg photos, cycling through the various resolutions, use arrow or page keys to navigate, ESC key when done.

Note, the 3rd screenshot of the 3 shows PowerStrip settings that may more perfectly center your 1152 X 648 image than the PowerStrip settings I embedded in the previously posted instructional pdf, and my apologies for the low exposure and poor lighting, it's a new camera for me, now I'll know how to handle settings better the next time.

I have also included a photo of my family room, with viewing distances of anywhere from 10' to 15' depending upon where you sit, and no more than a 45 degree angle from the worst spot (wide angle lense used for picture). I have a thermostatically controlled fan that goes on when the cabinet temp goes past 80 degrees (rarely), and plenty of depth behind the TV. The hole I made (11 years ago, for my previous 32" TV) is 30" deep, so there's a good sized pocket of open space above and behind the KDS-55A2000, along with space above the Wii and Xbox 360. It's mostly the air rising from behind the TiVos and/or the Yamaha amp is blown back into the room by the fan.

Glad I had the depth to allow for rear-projection, making 1080p affordable, and allowing me some ability to angle the TV somewhat toward the middle of the couch. And luck would have it that the hole I cut 11 years ago was just barely tall enough for the TV (1/8" clearance), and the shelf just fits my NHT speakers.

 

resolution comparisons on Sony HDTV.pdf 458.18359375k . file
LL
LL

Sony KDL-55HX800 LED LCD TV
(replaced KDL-55EX710, which replaced '06 KDS-55A2000 Rear Projection)
Sony STR-DA5600ES AV Receiver
(replaced STR-DA5300ES)
Sony BDP-S370 Blu-ray
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post #1860 of 3250 Old 01-13-2007, 09:17 PM
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Here's what I don't quite understand however. When I plugged in my A2000 into my ATI card via DVI->HDMI (no powerstrip), the catalyst control center automatically detected the TV and set the resolution to 1080i with no fiddling on my part at all...
The tricker part was to force a 1080p resolution using Powerstrip - which I got pretty close using some nVidia settings I found on this board. Currently I'm set up at:
HFP 136
HBP 176
HSW 48
FE Active 1840
VFP 22
VBP 68
VSW 5
FE Active 1016
Refresh 59.625

This gets me very close - maybe 1/8" top and bottom border and about 1/2" left/right. I can't quite get that last little bit, but I'm pretty happy with it for now...
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