Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 16 - AVS Forum
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post #451 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyELF View Post

I watched Pirates last night as well. It was absolutely horrible. For me movie mode still doesn't get rid of the banding but it does succeed in making it look like absolute crap. I'm waiting for Samsung to send someone out to my place but I don't think he'll be able to do much at all. I'm fairly confident that this set it going back. Lets hope someone gets fired over this. What a way to ruin the Samsung name. As I've said before, I'm amazed that a product with a serious flaw this obvious made its way to consumers. I wonder what the return rate on this set will be.


Let us know the outcome.

The banding is not noticable to me when using my upscaling DVD through HDMI. I have watched 4 or 5 movies and have not noticed it.
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post #452 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyELF View Post

Are there sets out there that don't have banding issues?

Perhaps these are just blind owners.

Seriously though, who has one that doesn't have banding?


See post #412 in this thread. Majeskty has the set and does not have banding issues.

-phil

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post #453 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 01:05 PM
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Thanks to this great forum I was saved a lot of trouble and disappointment. Canceled my order and got a HL-S6187, less money and no RBE for us.
Good luck all
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post #454 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 01:25 PM
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There are numerous references in the SM for Lamp & LED.

Under;
Factory Data- #2 Lamp Ctl. Dynamic, Always
DDP1011- #12 Lamp Boost 0-63 & #17 Lamp Watt 120W/132W
LED- #1 Led Ctl. 0-1
Service- #13 Lamp Watt 120W/132W

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #455 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyELF View Post

Are there sets out there that don't have banding issues?

Perhaps these are just blind owners.

Seriously though, who has one that doesn't have banding?

See my post #317. Thank God I am not blind.
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post #456 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 01:39 PM
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I have an open service request with samsung. I know they arnt calibrators, but they at least should make it viewable enough until a calibrator can come do their thing. The rep on the phone was like "this is the first I've heard of this" which is just.... crazy. Banding on /everything/ except 1080 sources just isnt reasonable. Yes, movie mode reduces it alot, but it also makes you have to live in a dark cave to see anything.

I'll keep you guys posted if anything materializes.

Oh god... tech just called me to schedule an appt, and asked what color banding was. This just doesnt seem too good. Anyone want a pretty $4000 brick?
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post #457 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

There are numerous references in the SM for Lamp & LED.

Under;
Factory Data- #2 Lamp Ctl. Dynamic, Always
DDP1011- #12 Lamp Boost 0-63 & #17 Lamp Watt 120W/132W
LED- #1 Led Ctl. 0-1
Service- #13 Lamp Watt 120W/132W

Most are leftovers from previous sets. Even the service manual is based on previous models and isn't updated correctly in all areas. Many of the LED features listed in the service manual seem rushed and tacked on at best. The service manual was made/finished in July 2006 and references service menu structure and options not actually available on the set itself.

Most lamp options are grayed out. Several other options may appear to be available but simply do nothing.
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post #458 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

I have an open service request with samsung. I know they arnt calibrators, but they at least should make it viewable enough until a calibrator can come do their thing. The rep on the phone was like "this is the first I've heard of this" which is just.... crazy. Banding on /everything/ except 1080 sources just isnt reasonable. Yes, movie mode reduces it alot, but it also makes you have to live in a dark cave to see anything.

I'll keep you guys posted if anything materializes.

Oh god... tech just called me to schedule an appt, and asked what color banding was. This just doesnt seem too good. Anyone want a pretty $4000 brick?

I have never trusted Co. Serv. Techs, in my opinion they are useless, just think, The Samsung site still list this set as having one HDMI input.
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post #459 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:11 PM
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I recall that adjustment of the color wheel delay in the SM of the CW sets had an influence on color banding. Is there a LED timing adjustment in the 5679 SM?
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post #460 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hjw View Post

I recall that adjustment of the color wheel delay in the SM of the CW sets had an influence on color banding. Is there a LED timing adjustment in the 5679 SM?

That's a very interesting question. We may not know until one of our resident ISF calibrators gets one to work on.
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post #461 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luidoly View Post

I have never trusted Co. Serv. Techs, in my opinion they are useless, just think, The Samsung site still list this set as having one HDMI input.

Huh?

http://samsung.com/Products/TV/DLPTV/HLS5679WXXAA.asp

That's said 2 HDMI inputs for weeks. You work for Sony or something?
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post #462 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hjw View Post

I recall that adjustment of the color wheel delay in the SM of the CW sets had an influence on color banding. Is there a LED timing adjustment in the 5679 SM?

Good question for Wesley who has been messing around with the SM. I for one, continue to beleive the experts, like Umr who in a previous post related to color banding as dependent in many factors like bit depht, gray scale tracking, gamma, etc.. all twekable with appropiate calibration, which in my case would be the Movie Mode.
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post #463 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 03:55 PM
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I just thought I would put in my quick review - I just installed my Samsung 5679 over the weekend. My setup is very simple: Cox Cable is the cable provider, I have a Monster coax Cable coming from the coaxial cable output on the wall directly to my HD cable box ( Motorola DC 6416 III). I have a high quality two meter HDMI cable (Best deal cables) from the cable box to HDMI input 2 on the back of the Samsung 5679 (build date July, 2006). The HDMI carries the audio and video signals, so at this point this is the only connection that I am using.

Out of the box, it looked pretty bad, but I used the settings recommended on this site for the Samsung 5687. Movie mode, warm 2, etc.

After making the adjustments, the picture looks great, no banding/reflections whatsoever (SD or HD). I also watched Pirates and it looked okay (a lot of dark scenes), but Star Wars and the ESPN baseball game looked fantastic.

It may be preferable to use HDMI over component cables for this set?

Anyway, I will not be returning my set.

Dave
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post #464 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 04:05 PM
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[quote=david12]I just thought I would put in my quick review - I just installed my Samsung 5679 over the weekend. My setup is very simple: Cox Cable is the cable provider, I have a Monster coax Cable coming from the coaxial cable output on the wall directly to my HD cable box ( Motorola DC 6416 III). I have a high quality two meter HDMI cable (Best deal cables) from the cable box to HDMI input 2 on the back of the Samsung 5679 (build date July, 2006). The HDMI carries the audio and video signals, so at this point this is the only connection that I am using.

Out of the box, it looked pretty bad, but I used the settings recommended on this site for the Samsung 5687. Movie mode, warm 2, etc.

After making the adjustments, the picture looks great, no banding/reflections whatsoever (SD or HD). I also watched Pirates and it looked okay (a lot of dark scenes), but Star Wars and the ESPN baseball game looked fantastic.

It may be preferable to use HDMI over component cables for this set?

Anyway, I will not be returning my set.

Dave[/QUOTE

I'm with you, very satisfied, and looking foward to making it better when I calibrae it.
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post #465 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 06:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luidoly View Post

Good question for Wesley who has been messing around with the SM. I for one, continue to beleive the experts, like Umr who in a previous post related to color banding as dependent in many factors like bit depht, gray scale tracking, gamma, etc.. all twekable with appropiate calibration, which in my case would be the Movie Mode.

There is an INDEX DELAY setting in the SERVICE sub-menu set at a default of 45. However, nothing expressly referencing LED delay adjustments. Unfortunately, several abbreviations are not explained even in the service manual. Also, like I mentioned earlier, the service menu sub groups are not exactly like they are found on the tv. Furthermore, many of the defaults listed in the service manual didn't match the tv's. It seems much information from the model the service manual was based upon was simply copied and not updated properly for the 5679.
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post #466 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david12 View Post

It may be preferable to use HDMI over component cables for this set?

You are right. Using a digital connection for digital signals going to a digital TV makes a lot of sense.
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post #467 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 06:44 PM
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[quote=luidoly]
Quote:
Originally Posted by david12 View Post

I just thought I would put in my quick review - I just installed my Samsung 5679 over the weekend. My setup is very simple: Cox Cable is the cable provider, I have a Monster coax Cable coming from the coaxial cable output on the wall directly to my HD cable box ( Motorola DC 6416 III). I have a high quality two meter HDMI cable (Best deal cables) from the cable box to HDMI input 2 on the back of the Samsung 5679 (build date July, 2006). The HDMI carries the audio and video signals, so at this point this is the only connection that I am using.

Out of the box, it looked pretty bad, but I used the settings recommended on this site for the Samsung 5687. Movie mode, warm 2, etc.

After making the adjustments, the picture looks great, no banding/reflections whatsoever (SD or HD). I also watched Pirates and it looked okay (a lot of dark scenes), but Star Wars and the ESPN baseball game looked fantastic.

It may be preferable to use HDMI over component cables for this set?

Anyway, I will not be returning my set.

Dave[/QUOTE

I'm with you, very satisfied, and looking foward to making it better when I calibrae it.

Although I've tweaked mine internally and will continue to do so more with a ND filter, I too have been happy with the tv and plan to keep mine as well. I feel very, very over charged but it is the only set I want right now. Sure, I wish it was better in the sense that I could use DNIe if I wanted and the black level in a dark room was lower but other than that, it is everything I wanted in a replacement tv.

I just wanted to get away from convergence, fear of burn-in, etc. that I had with my previous crt rptv and I've done that. I've been able to give my old set to my brother and his family to enjoy. Furthermore, I've been able (at least with my set) to get every component and input I use to look as good and better than my previous set. This is my first DLP and it has indeed been a learning experience. However, I've gained things (DLP or not) that I wanted to have like HDMI inputs, FireWire inputs, Cable QAM tuner, 1080p, etc. that I didn't have before in my main viewing area. The fear of rainbows and the longer life of the LEDs lead me to this set. Although I must admit after years of reading about DLPs and RBE and then finally seeing one for an extended period at a Curcuit City recently (not the 5679), I may not have been one of those who sees them easily or at all afterall. ;-) Live and learn.

As I have mentioned before, the room I use the set in is far from being dark during the day but I don't let direct sunlight near this set or any tv in the house for that matter, just personal preference. When the kids are around, there is plenty of light in the room day and night and the tv seems fine to me in movie mode.

Looking back, I only paid $200 less for my crt rptv 6 years ago and thought it was a bargin then. I tweaked it too the first year. I remember taking the screen off once to check a dark spot that turned out to be dirt behind the screen from the factory and later seeing a "crack" in the corner only to discover it was a spider making a home inside of it. Anyway, I hope to hear from someone who gets a professional calibration and/or hopefully solves the DNIe color banding riddle. Also, I hope I get some good results with my ND filter tweak as well. With my image centered and overscan off (my old set at close to 10% overscan!) the only thing for me that remains is getting the black level down when the lights are off. I would like to get it like my crt but I'll see soon enough. Be good to get someone watching a movie who gets up during a fade to black to have to stop in their tracks again.
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post #468 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 08:45 PM
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Question: Does anybody know what is the resolution fed to the HDMI from a D*STB like the HD-10-250 HDMI out on Non HD channels. I know the box can be changed or cycled to 480i,480p, 720p and 1080i.
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post #469 of 2937 Old 08-28-2006, 10:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luidoly View Post

Question: Does anybody know what is the resolution fed to the HDMI from a D*STB like the HD-10-250 HDMI out on Non HD channels. I know the box can be changed or cycled to 480i,480p, 720p and 1080i.

The resolution is what ever you tell the box to use. One choice would be 10800i. Another might be to pass on all resolutions without up-scaling them. Either one will work. It's up to you which you like best. Your TV will convert what ever is input to 1080p.
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post #470 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 12:57 AM
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Howdy. I picked up one of these sets last week and am pretty happy with it. I've currently got two issues with it:

1) Every once in a while the screen goes blank and comes back, like the set is resetting itself. It comes back in a different picture mode then it was in, and if it was in 4:3, it is back in 16:9.

2) I can't seem to save any custom settings. For example, if I change the color in movie mode to "normal" and then turn the set on and off again, the set starts up in dynamic mode, and when I switch back to movie mode, the color is warm2 again.

I'm guessing something is wrong with the set, since it doesn't seem to be keep any custom settings between power-cycles (it does remember that the internal speaker is off though).

I've got the HR10-250 connected via HDMI to a Denon 4306, as well as the Samsung HD960.

I've thought about going straight from the HR10-250 to the set to see if that fixes (1), but I'm guessing that really shouldn't have any impact on (2).

any suggestions?
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post #471 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 05:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunkyELF View Post

I watched a movie today (the greatest game ever played) and in the begining there was a scene when it showed a shot of the water with the sky in the background. When it faded in you could see bands going all over the place. I put it in movie mode and they were still there.

What DVD player are you using? It is a known problem of the Faroudja chipset to have colorbanding (or macroblocking, same thing), which is a particular problem on DLP displays.
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post #472 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luidoly View Post

Question: Does anybody know what is the resolution fed to the HDMI from a D*STB like the HD-10-250 HDMI out on Non HD channels. I know the box can be changed or cycled to 480i,480p, 720p and 1080i.


What ever you set the Digital box for is what signal will be sent to the HDMI connection. Pressing Info on the Samsung remote will give you the connection input you are on with the resolution signal from the box next to it. Then the TV will do an up conversion to 1080P.
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post #473 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 06:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trefork View Post

What DVD player are you using? It is a known problem of the Faroudja chipset to have colorbanding (or macroblocking, same thing), which is a particular problem on DLP displays.

Macroblocking and banding are very different things. Please provide some sort of evidence to back your claims before you get a bunch of other newbies in a tizzy.

Thanks,

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post #474 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkraus123 View Post

The 4:3 content on the Mits is great! No problem, as I never watch stretched material, just in native 4:3.

Take a look at a station available in analog and digital, measure the width of each. You should see a greater measurement with the digital feed (NOT off satellite, either cable or OTA).

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #475 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

Most are leftovers from previous sets. Even the service manual is based on previous models and isn't updated correctly in all areas. Many of the LED features listed in the service manual seem rushed and tacked on at best. The service manual was made/finished in July 2006 and references service menu structure and options not actually available on the set itself.

Most lamp options are grayed out. Several other options may appear to be available but simply do nothing.

Then they are using the same or similar firmware for those menu items.
Kinda cheap for a $4k set and the fact they had three extra months to work on this set, since it was suppose to be out in May.

No one has mentioned the audio 'lip sync' issue with earlier Sammy sets. This doen't have it or is everyone too busy looking for banding?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #476 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 07:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkraus123 View Post

This will be my last post since as of yesterday I am no longer an owner. I had it picked up and returned.
2 hours after the 5679W was removed I had CC deliver a Mits WD-52631. Wow, what a difference. Right out of the box before tweaking, it was many times better than the Samsung. My wife was so happy. No color banding or dingy Movie Mode, just nice clear picture.
The price was $1300 less to boot, but that was not even the issue. I would have gladly spent the money if the Samsung unit was even acceptable, but to me it is not.
I understand all of you that have made a purchase certainly want to feel they made a good decision, and I truly hope that you are all happy. But for those reading this site that have not purchased, please go down to your local store and do a comparison. I just cannot stand the Samsung set, sorry.

I know it's not out yet, but did you consider the JVC 1080 and if not, why not?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
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post #477 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by rolandschemers View Post

any suggestions?

I would get it exchanged for either of the two problems you have listed.
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post #478 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 08:53 AM
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I have been using my cable box with component cables and my xbox as a DVD player with a composite cable.

Both of these worked wonderfully on my previous Mitsubishi DLP on which I saw rainbows and had to return it.

The fact of the matter is, I'm not going to buy a $500 DVD player, or $100 cables and only use 2 of the inputs on the back of the TV. I don't understand how people can settle with this set. "Oh yeah, it looks great if you turn every option off, only use this input, only use upscaling sources, and watch the TV upside down after taking 10 hits of acid".

I don't own any "high end" equipment right now. I planned on buying a decent DVD player, maybe $200, a nice entertainment center, and a new receiver after I got this TV, but there is no point now. I'm glad I didn't buy any of that stuff because I'd be returning it along with the TV. For now I'm going to have to go back to my 36 inch Sanyo you could pick up at a garage sale for $20. It is not nearly as big but cable and DVDs look a lot better on there.

I didn't pay what I paid for this TV to only use Firewire or HDMI and hook expensive equipment up to it and only use "movie mode" which I still say shows banding.

Seriously...anybody that has Netflix and claims to have solved the color banding issue, go rent "The Greatest Game Ever Played". Watch the opening scene when it fades in and you'll see banding. Use a $2,000 DVD player and you'll still see it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by trefork View Post

What DVD player are you using? It is a known problem of the Faroudja chipset to have colorbanding (or macroblocking, same thing), which is a particular problem on DLP displays.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

Since component requires a digital to analog, then an analog to digital conversions, try using a HDMI cable. With less processing by the DACs, you might retain more of the picture information.

Also, have you tried DVD on something other than a component cable?

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post #479 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by FunkyELF View Post

I have been using my cable box with component cables and my xbox as a DVD player with a composite cable.

If I understand correctly, you have an expensive digital TV, but you are using xbox and STB input devices to convert all your digital source material from digital to analog before it's sent to your expensive new digital TV.

If you are happy watching your xbox through a composite cable it's your choice but many people would get one of the good up-scaling DVD players for $150 - $200, and connect it to HDMI with a good $15 HDMI or DVI/HDMI cable.

Those same people would at least try connecting their STB with either a DVI>HDMI or HDMI cable.

In both cases they would be avoiding converting their digital source material to analog before sending it to the TV. They would also avoid converting that analog material back to digital before it was displayed.

The quality of TV input ports from worst to best is composite, S-Video, component, and HDMI/DVI.

The xbox is not considered to be even an average DVD player.
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post #480 of 2937 Old 08-29-2006, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rolandschemers View Post

Howdy. I picked up one of these sets last week and am pretty happy with it. I've currently got two issues with it:

1) Every once in a while the screen goes blank and comes back, like the set is resetting itself. It comes back in a different picture mode then it was in, and if it was in 4:3, it is back in 16:9.

2) I can't seem to save any custom settings. For example, if I change the color in movie mode to "normal" and then turn the set on and off again, the set starts up in dynamic mode, and when I switch back to movie mode, the color is warm2 again.

I'm guessing something is wrong with the set, since it doesn't seem to be keep any custom settings between power-cycles (it does remember that the internal speaker is off though).

I've got the HR10-250 connected via HDMI to a Denon 4306, as well as the Samsung HD960.

I've thought about going straight from the HR10-250 to the set to see if that fixes (1), but I'm guessing that really shouldn't have any impact on (2).

any suggestions?

Definately exchange it. That is not normal.
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