Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 05:05 PM
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Anyone else using this TV as a monitor for a HTPC ? It all looks really good to me through the VGA port, but has left me wondering if the picture would be any better if I used the DVI out on my 7800GS with a DVI/HDMI cable. The manual says not to use this if I rememebr right, and havent been in a hurry to try it myself since I dont have a DVI/HDMI cable at the moment but I wondered if anyone else hsa tried it.

Only complaint I have about this set is occasionally when watching DVD's from my computer hard drive I see a ripple that works its way up through the screen, as if the refresh rate was slightly out of sync or something. I'm tempted ot buy a cable and try the HDMI port, but not willing to risk damaging my expensive new TV yet ...
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post #542 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 06:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kralthan View Post

Anyone else using this TV as a monitor for a HTPC ? It all looks really good to me through the VGA port, but has left me wondering if the picture would be any better if I used the DVI out on my 7800GS with a DVI/HDMI cable. The manual says not to use this if I rememebr right, and havent been in a hurry to try it myself since I dont have a DVI/HDMI cable at the moment but I wondered if anyone else hsa tried it.

Only complaint I have about this set is occasionally when watching DVD's from my computer hard drive I see a ripple that works its way up through the screen, as if the refresh rate was slightly out of sync or something. I'm tempted ot buy a cable and try the HDMI port, but not willing to risk damaging my expensive new TV yet ...

I've tried both. IMO there's no difference in PQ, but I haven't watched any DVD's from my PC. The benefit to using the VGA input is that you can scale the image to fit on the screen. With the DVI connection you'll lose something like 20-30 pixels around the edges due to overscan. Some video drivers and 3rd party utilities will let you define a custom resolution <1920x1080 which works for most apps - but not games. If you haven't turned off overscan, you need to.

The "ripple" sounds like the frequency is off or maybe the cable is not transmitting a clean signal. Check your display settings to make sure it's 60Hz and try a different cable if you have one.
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post #543 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JSDearborn View Post

... The 5679 as good as the picture was had 2 issues I couldn't deal with. First being the bands that traveled from bottom to top. I could see them both in the low res channels and the hd channels and the DVD. ...

Your set was obviously flawed. Why did you exchange it for a smaller set rather than get a new 5679?
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post #544 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 07:05 PM
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Thanks for the info klac. It's probably an issue with the vga cable, its an old one I've had for a while. I was kind of surprised to see it would carry the 1080P resolution. I had actually ordered what I hoped to be a higher quality cable online, but when it arrived I realized it had a male and female end so wont work for me. At the price I paid for it, wasnt worth the effort to try to return it since it had been my own fault for not reading the specs clearly. Looks like I'll need to shop for a different one.
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post #545 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 08:04 PM
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I saw one of these today at a local Tweeter. They had just put it on display. It was being feed by a Samsung BR player playing the demo loop. I watched it for about 40 minutes and did not see any color banding. The out of the box settings need a lot of help but I think this set has a lot of potential with a good calibration. One thing that was readily apparent to me was how clean and smooth the screen looked. It look very uniform with zero smudges, or anomalies.

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post #546 of 2937 Old 09-01-2006, 11:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by klac View Post

Your set was obviously flawed. Why did you exchange it for a smaller set rather than get a new 5679?

Having read all of the negative comments about the 5679 set and then experiencing some issues myself I decided to go with the tried and true. I just played xbox 360 and watched a concert on INHD on the XBR3. I'm happy. And it is the biggest TV I have. It fits fine in the room it is in.

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post #547 of 2937 Old 09-02-2006, 09:54 AM
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Saw this at the Beaverton Magnolia recently.

I had predicted that people with high-index plastic eyeglasses would experience an annoying rainbow effect when looking off to the side. Although the effect was there, it required looking very near the edge of my lenses so this turns out to be a non-issue.

Did not see any color banding but may not have had the proper source material.

The set was far less bright than any of the other sets on display. It also seemed rather soft --don't know why that might be but who know what the various settings were for all the sets.
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post #548 of 2937 Old 09-02-2006, 10:58 AM
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TWD,

Where in Texas did you see the 5679? I'm on the south side of Houston and the local Tweeter has not been able to give me a consistent answer as to when the 5679 is getting into Houston.

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post #549 of 2937 Old 09-02-2006, 03:12 PM
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I saw it at the Frisco store. I checked with the local store and they told me that the Frisco store just got one. I took a ride out there and by luck, they had just got done putting it on the floor when I got there.

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post #550 of 2937 Old 09-04-2006, 05:29 PM
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I went into the Beaverton Magnolia today and took a look at this set also. It was there with a Sony A2000, and the non-LED HLS's plus a couple models from Mitsubishi. I was mainly comparing the 5679 vs the 6188 and the Sony A2000 because that's what I'm considering.

I haven't seen anyone post a side-by-side comparative review based on other sets, so I figured I'd write up my observations. I'm not an AV Pro, but I do know a bit about video and I'm familiar with most video artifacts and what to look for. I am assuming that all sets were on their default settings.

So here's what I noticed:

1. I looked for color banding and saw a little, but I really had to look for it. It was only noticeable when I was close. This was when watching a non-upscaled DVD of Underworld (random dark scenes) on a decent Sony DVD player - forgot model through the stores component video multi-feed. I saw no banding at all on the HD source of the US Open. I looked for it at the same places on the other HLS and noticed that the video seemed to display a similar effect, but it was less noticeable. The same area on the Sony did the best job of blending. Based on what I saw and others here have reported, my guess is that this is very source dependant and an issue with Samsung's video processing especially with poor signals. It could be that this set does a good job of showing off a bad signal. A perfect set would compensate for the bad signal, but my signals should all be very good quality. To me this was pretty minor issue because I could only see it when very close and really looking for it.

Edit...
I didn't spend a ton of time with this set so I may not have seen the banding at it's worst. Maybe a couple owners can comment on this?

As an aside, I've seen color banding on my old Sony non-HD tube TV with a Dish Network PVR. I never noticed it before until I started reading about the color banding on the 5679 even though I'm sure it was there.

2. The color on this set is vibrant! This was particularly noticeable on the US Open feed. Things like the ball boys red panels and the color of the court were much more vivid on this set. Red and green were the most pronounced, and blue was only slightly enhanced over the 6188 which was better than the A2000. It made the other two sets look washed out. The best way to describe this effect was like looking at the same shirt, one new (the 5679), then one that's been washed 20 times (the 6188) and one that's been washed 40 times (the A2000).

3. The shadow detail on the 5679 looked slightly better than the 6188 but only a by a small amount. Both sets were somewhat below the detail on the A2000.

4. There did seem to be a slight red bias on the 5679 compared to the other 2 sets but it was very slight and looks like it could be fixed with settings adjustments.

5. The black level was not as good as the 6188 and A2000, but it didn't seem that bad to me. It was nowhere near as bad as most of the LCD's I've seen.

Edit...
6. One other thing I forgot to mention is that this set is definitely not as bright as the others, but it didn't seem to make much difference since they all seem plenty bright for most situations.

Overall impressions:

After looking at all these sets together, I'm not sure the extra expense will be worth it for everyone, but I think I'm gonna take the plunge. I can get most TV's at wholesale (I have a friend who runs a home theater company) so that makes it a little easier for me. If I had to pay retail, I may reconsider. To me the extra color vibrancy was the clear differentiator since all the other things were pretty close one way or another. I really liked how the colors pop. Since I expect to have this hooked up to FiOS once Verizon gets their local franchise approved (I have the fiber outside now, they just need the permission to send me video over it), and my other main source will be the PS3, I should have a great set of signals to work with and will hopefully avoid any problems with this set showing off a bad signal.

So hopefully it's crystal clear viewing for me soon!!
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post #551 of 2937 Old 09-04-2006, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kralthan View Post

....Only complaint I have about this set is occasionally when watching DVD's from my computer hard drive I see a ripple that works its way up through the screen, as if the refresh rate was slightly out of sync or something. I'm tempted ot buy a cable and try the HDMI port, but not willing to risk damaging my expensive new TV yet ...

You need JudderTest to find the optimal refresh rate.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=318096

Ken
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post #552 of 2937 Old 09-04-2006, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by ><</strong> View Post

So hopefully it's crystal clear viewing for me soon!!

Awesome! You may have just convinced me to go for this set after all, when I haven't been able to see one in the stores anywhere and will be lucky if anyplace carries it in the next month. If anyone in Colorado knows of a store with one on display, please speak up!

Sadly, I've got a bit of a deadline approaching...my wife wants us to have everything all set up by Halloween. So the question is...will TVA start getting these sets in anytime soon or what? I think tomorrow I'm going to have to ask for an update again, and see whether I could get a 5688 any faster, if necessary...
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post #553 of 2937 Old 09-05-2006, 08:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

Awesome! You may have just convinced me to go for this set after all, when I haven't been able to see one in the stores anywhere and will be lucky if anyplace carries it in the next month. If anyone in Colorado knows of a store with one on display, please speak up!
Sadly, I've got a bit of a deadline approaching...my wife wants us to have everything all set up by Halloween. So the question is...will TVA start getting these sets in anytime soon or what? I think tomorrow I'm going to have to ask for an update again, and see whether I could get a 5688 any faster, if necessary...

Ultimate Electronics in Thornton have the 5679 on display. Its at the front of the store as you enter and is being fed by a Samsung Blu-ray player.
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post #554 of 2937 Old 09-05-2006, 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by disgruntled1 View Post

Ultimate Electronics in Thornton have the 5679 on display. Its at the front of the store as you enter and is being fed by a Samsung Blu-ray player.

Thanks for the head's up! Before I saw your message, I got a couple of PMs from other members pointing me to other online dealers. One I'm not so certain about, but the other seemed like a well-established dealer.

I called the better of the two to investigate price matching the TVA price (was just getting too worried about missing our target date since some places are getting in their second shipments and TVA still hasn't gotten in their first) and they agreed to do so, including free shipping. It's only curbside delivery but that shouldn't be a problem for us. It turned out they just got in a shipment and have a few more...PM me if you want their URL. In any case, next week I should have one of these!

I later called Ultimate Electronics. Endured being on hold for about 10 minutes before I could ask if they had one at the Colorado Springs store...indeed they do, for well over MSRP. They claim they do price matching though...well, I went to their store this evening. They had the Blu-ray demo with a movie called Hitch with Will Smith. It looked like a good transfer, and the sales rep agreed, calling it "phenomenal". If/when I get HD-DVD I should be favorably impressed!

Here were my general impressions of this TV:

Vertical viewing angle is crap. Lucky it's not a problem for us.
Horizontal viewing angle isn't as good as other HL-S TVs. This is a big issue for us, and I think we will have to rotate the TV about 10-20 degrees so we can watch both within the family room, and from the bar adjoining it (where I sit geeking now).
SSE: Saw this a bit...I was closer than I will sit at home though. I think it will be a minor problem for me and I'm a little concerned that when I self-calibrate the TV, I'll sacrifice brightness for the SSE. I'll get to that next.
Brightness: Seems okay from the front...already mentioned the viewing angles. So I'm concerned that if calibration takes it down some, it won't be as viewable from the sides. We'll see when it gets here!
SD: They only had a shared feed from OTA stations, 3 analog and Discovery HD (which made me wonder if it really wasn't actually OTA). The SD stations were awful due to probable ground loop issues. Ignoring that, they looked all right to me. In fact, with one that had a cartoon, it was hard to tell it was SD.
HD: 1080p BD looks fine. Discovery HD is probably 720p and frequently it looked blocky. I don't think it was macro-blocking, I think it was just not smoothly upscaling to 1080p. Maybe either my cable box or my receiver will fix this kind of problem.
color banding: Terrible. Just kidding, I didn't see it at all. That said, I spent 90% of my time watching the HD and only a couple minutes on the craptastic SD. At home though I will be watching 95% SD for now, so who knows. I've gotten the idea that the color banding "issue" is much overstated.
Calibration: I strongly suspect that I'm going to want a calibration, but I don't think I'll be able to commit to one until I've had the TV for 6+ months. I don't suppose any ISF calibrators plan to be in the Springs in March?
Comparison with HL-S 87/88: Ultimate didn't have much for comparison. Aside from this TV, I think they had the 6186 maybe, and no other HL-S at all, just HL-R. They're STILL trying to clear last year's models out before stocking this year's. In any case, I believe that if you looked at a 87/88, you'd like the 87/88 more, assuming you didn't see RBE.
Colors: I guess they did sort of "pop" but that's not exactly what I was looking for anyway. I'll reassess when I've got a set.
Reflections: The screen seems to have a sort of matte texture to it. Reflections were visible but indistinct. I think they'll bother me less than my CRT's glass, but still be an issue (I have a torchiere in the back of my family room).

Bottom line: The set looked pretty good. I'm basically trading a bit of quality for a lot of reliability and no chance of RBE. And paying some extra, though with the PB price it isn't as big a deal.

Now to just tell TVA the bad news...don't want the TV from them, but do want their RepairMaster warranty, which gives me the option of screen protection in case the 2-year-old does something awful.
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post #555 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 05:14 AM
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tg2k; or anyone, would you try this test;

Put on an analog channel that has a digital simulcasted duplicate (local station) using either the OTA or cable tuner (NOT using a STB),
measure the width of the actual picture (only in normal mode, no stretch),
then tune to the digital version of that same station and re-measure the width of the picture.

Is there any difference?

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #556 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

tg2k; or anyone, would you try this test;

Put on an analog channel that has a digital simulcasted duplicate (local station) using either the OTA or cable tuner (NOT using a STB),
measure the width of the actual picture (only in normal mode, no stretch),
then tune to the digital version of that same station and re-measure the width of the picture.

Is there any difference?

It certainly won't be me...I was just looking at a set in a store! And when I get my set next week, I'll have it connected with just cable/DVD/games. I don't even have an OTA antenna and I don't think I want a digital antenna.
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post #557 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 08:33 AM
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I've noticed that between these two:

1. HD250 connected via HDMI, content in 4:3, TV in 16:9

2. older Tivo (S-Video upconverted to HDMI or straight to TV S-Video), TV in 4:3

That #2 looked like it wasn't wide enough. I did some quick measuring and it was indeed shorter diagonally, maybe an inch or so (I don't have the numbers handy).
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post #558 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 11:55 AM
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I just got my 5679, and notice something strange. The brightness seems to dynamically change based content. Here is what is happening:

Let's say the image on screen is an all black backround with a small white square in the center of the screen. The white square will appear light gray even though it should be white. Add several more white squares to the image, and they all appear white, as they should. It is like the brightness level dynamically adjusts to what is on the screen.

Is this normal? Is this a feature that I can somehow turn off (service menu)?

My old mitsubishi had a feature called "black enhancement" that seemed to cause a similar phenomenon, but I was able to turn it off in the user menus.

Any help would be appreciated!!
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post #559 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

It certainly won't be me...I was just looking at a set in a store! And when I get my set next week, I'll have it connected with just cable/DVD/games. I don't even have an OTA antenna and I don't think I want a digital antenna.

It can be done with just cable as I asked.
Quote:


using either the OTA or cable tuner

There is no such thing as a "digital antenna". That's marketing hype at it's worst.

Abundant OTA television is what makes this country different from all others. Lets keep it this way.
The Internet is no place for streaming video.
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post #560 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 12:45 PM
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I just saw the HLS5679 for a much lower price from Surroundcity.com. Has there been a reduction in the price by Samsung/ Compared to the SXRD from Sony it is retailed too high

gjn
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post #561 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

It can be done with just cable as I asked. There is no such thing as a "digital antenna". That's marketing hype at it's worst.

I guess I was a little unclear (was in a hurry). I have cable with no overlap between analog and digital stations. I have no antenna whatsoever, nor do I intend to purchase one.
By "digital antenna" I meant the antennas sold in places like BB which claim to receive digital channels. I don't really care whether it's marketing...my understanding is that the digital signal is somehow send over the air though (I guess this would be ATSC or something, not sure) and turned back into a digital signal by the antenna box...and then adjusted appropriately to send out whatever outputs the antenna provides, analog or digital. I'm perfectly capable of looking it up (a few months ago I knew this a bit better)...but at the moment, disinclined to do so.
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post #562 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

tg2k; or anyone, would you try this test;

Put on an analog channel that has a digital simulcasted duplicate (local station) using either the OTA or cable tuner (NOT using a STB),
measure the width of the actual picture (only in normal mode, no stretch),
then tune to the digital version of that same station and re-measure the width of the picture.

Is there any difference?

No diference in width, when mesuring on OTA feeds, ie... channel 4, and 4-1, no stretch or zoom, I take you mean 4:3 ratio. Both measure 37.45 inches. I have no cable, only Direct TV STB and OTA feed. I did not use the STB.
What does it mean if they are both equal????
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post #563 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kmp14 View Post

I just got my 5679, and notice something strange. The brightness seems to dynamically change based content.

The HL-Sxx88 models have a dynamic iris, and maybe the HL-Sxx87 models do to. I think UMR has reported changing the iris to a "fixed" setting of his choice to get the ISF results that he was looking for. If that's true of the "88" sets it may also be true of the LED set.

I don't think anyone who posts here has had their set calibrated yet. That's probably how you will get your answer.
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post #564 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The HL-Sxx88 models have a dynamic iris, and maybe the HL-Sxx87 models do to. I think UMR has reported changing the iris to a "fixed" setting of his choice to get the ISF results that he was looking for. If that's true of the "88" sets it may also be true of the LED set.

I don't think anyone who posts here has had their set calibrated yet. That's probably how you will get your answer.

Doesn't DNIE also play into this?
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post #565 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

The HL-Sxx88 models have a dynamic iris, and maybe the HL-Sxx87 models do to. I think UMR has reported changing the iris to a "fixed" setting of his choice to get the ISF results that he was looking for. If that's true of the "88" sets it may also be true of the LED set.

I don't think anyone who posts here has had their set calibrated yet. That's probably how you will get your answer.

There is no dynamic iris in the 5679. The apparent or perceived black level can change from source to source and scene to scene. Of all my sources, my DirecTV satellite receiver for example, has the brightest output which I can not adjust lower on the receiver itself. I've adjusted my Brightness setting on my 5679 to 40 on all source inputs except the receiver which I had to go down to 25 on. Anything below 43-40 on most devices and you aren't really doing anything for the over black level of the TV and you are just lowering the brightness of the image beyond anything past 43-40. I have found that wobulation plays a factor here. Up close to the set, the black bars of 2:35:1 material on DVDs and pillars on 4:3 TV material, etc. have a rapid dance of gray pixels in a checkerboard like array. I adjusted my brightness down until this dance disappeared and used this as my bases for black. Only the DirecTV receiver required that I go down further until the dance disappeared. On the flip side, adjusting the brightness up causes the gray dance to become solid and a lighter gray dance to appear until it is solid, etc., etc.

This is my first DLP tv. I had been using and enjoying a CRT-based RPTV for the past 6 years. I've learned the good black levels on a DLP versus a CRT are not the same.

Yes the black levels are good on the 5679. I'd even go so far as calling them great: even in Movie Mode. The only thing is, that this is only true when the scenes fill the screen and there are a majority of light areas to be seen. Images with black bars and black/dark scenes look a dark gray and not CRT black. I have a Pioneer DVD player for example that has a player splash' screen that as Pioneer in red over a black' background. On my CRT, the black background was black, on a DLP this same screen has Pioneer in red just fine over a gray background. Movies played on this same player look great on the 5679. The main character of Ultraviolet has black hair (most of the time), wears black leather and runs in front of black objects and all of these things look black. However, on the same disc, a scene in which the lights go out, the screen of the 5679 turns dark gray (especially evident in a dark room). On my CRT, if you got up to get a drink or more popcorn during the same scene, you would have to stop in your tracks in a darkened room until enough light returned so you could see again.

I have had to adjust to this DLP black. It has been getting easier over the last few weeks but that first week was a real shocker. I've since black a back light behind my 5679 to ease the CRT to DLP transition a little. The back light doesn't fix anything. Solid black scenes or scenes with more dark areas than light areas still look more gray than black. It does help the eye adjust to what the DLP tv will say is dark compared to seeing the ink black of a totally dark room and knowing it isn't that black at all.

I've learned that reviews of DLP sets that say good black levels aren't exactly talking about all scenes and all movies here. The images from the 5679, both HD and SD look great and black/dark areas look great when scenes are mostly light and not dark. Movies like The Crow, Dark City, Sin City, V for Vendetta, etc. don't fair so well once you have seen them on a CRT-based RPTV. I have a LCD that's the same way as the DLP.

All DLPs (dynamic iris or not), not the 5679 (I have found the LED light engine, DMD, Phlat Light, etc. are just fine) just don't do dark scenes well in my opinion, especially when compared to CRT-based RPTVs.

I know of two solutions for this but neither of them are easy:

1. Then DLP DMD system needs to have a way to have NO light transmitted from black areas/pixels. I have personally seen that there is light still passing through the lens when the DLP DMD displays a solid, screen filling, black image. A dynamic iris would lower the amount of light but that is just a patch job. A DLP system that could have NO light passing through in areas that required it would be awesome.
2. The lenticular screen (at least for the 5679 I have access to) allows the excess light mentioned in #1 above to pass through to us the viewers. I love many aspects of the 5679's screen (no bad reflection from a lit or sunshine filled room, the smooth outer finish, etc.) but I think it and those of other DLP sets should have a much darker screen for daytime viewing to give the viewer a good feel for dark scenes and also a lenticular screen should be developed (only about 2 or so companies making sheets for the CE people) that would only allow light of a certain magnitude through and block any below this point (the light from the DLP DMD when the screen should be solid black, in dark scenes, etc.).

Until something develops like what I've mentioned happens, I don't see any real need in upgrading my 5679 DLP anytime soon until absolute black level really means something in the DLP world. It would take some develop like that to happen before I felt the need to upgrade to HDMI 1.3 deep color, etc. Until then, I continue my adjustment from CRT to LCD and DLP technologies.

For now, I love my 5679 otherwise. The HDMI connections, the PC input (and display quality), the Wiselink (put my SD card from my camera into a memory stick adapter and bam pictures on the tv), the Cable/Air HD tuner, the D-Net for my D-VHS and Camcorder, the great Xbox 360 image quality, everything in 1080p. All of this stuff (except for the HDMI which I only got with my LCD the first of this year) is new to me since replacing my 6 year old HDTV and I'm loving it all.

As I mentioned earlier, I'm still adjusting to DLP life after going cold turkey from CRT and have found nothing I can't stand or can't live with after learning about the differences and experiencing DLP first hand for myself.

P.S. I've learned that CRT tweaks like duvetyne and ND filters don't work for DLP. Also, I will try to post some pictures of my backlight (cheap $8 for W/M) and the inside of the 5679, light engine and all.
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post #566 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

There is no dynamic iris in the 5679.

Thanks for the correction and for all the great impressions. Do you have any plans to have your set calibrated?

I'm very happy with our HLP and use our computer along with TheaterTeK 2.4 for outstanding SD movies.

I've never had a CRT RPTV so DLP black seems good to me. The black bars are not black though.
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post #567 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 07:05 PM
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Thanks for the correction and for all the great impressions. Do you have any plans to have your set calibrated?

I'm very happy with our HLP and use our computer along with TheaterTeK 2.4 for outstanding SD movies.

I've never had a CRT RPTV so DLP black seems good to me. The black bars are not black though.

So true about the black bars, it really does come down to what you are "use to". I'm slowly getting use to "DLP black bars".

I've adjusted my set pretty much all that I'm going to now. I've adjusted it six ways to Sunday over the past few weeks and have finally 'settled in' with it after installing my back light (good bye to watching movies in a totally dark room ). As far as professional calibration, I personally don't see a need for it for myself until there is a way to make a solid, screen filling, blacker-than-black image appear as so and not have the lenticular screen allow so much light from the DMD (when all mirrors are 'off') to get through to me the viewer.

My Current TV Setup

The new Philips Ambient lighting system on their new line of LCDs in a 'trip' to me now, knowing what I've learned with my new DLP over that past few days.

I agree that the PC connection and image quality is great. In 4:3 mode, I've got like a 47" monitor with the 5679 that I can read very well at my setting distance in 1280x1024 mode.

FYI: more on the front screen of the 5679 - two pieces (replacing the 2 would be about $350+S&H through Samsung Parts). One: the fresnel is pretty standard really, circular etched ripples frosted semi-transparent look. The lenticular screen (what you the viewer sees) is not transparent but suprisingly clear. The 'color' you see is the brown/gray of the inside of the tv itself behind the screens.

P.S. Some movies with "hollywood night scenes" that is night scenes that aren't really all that dark still look good on DLP. I'm think the "blue nights" of T2 and moonlight nights of Lord of the Rings, etc. here.
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post #568 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 07:09 PM
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Thanks for the responses to my brightness pumping question. I spent some more time tweaking, and realized that in Movie Mode, the issue goes away entirely. I am not a videophile, so I made the mistake of gettting used to the Dynamic setting, then when I switched to Movie it looked do dark. When I powered up today, I imediately switch to Movie, and let it set in. After a while, I switched back to Dynamic and WHOA, it looked bad! Maybe I am heading toward videophile! Of course, being a videophile means seeing everything wrong with a display.

Right now I am really enjoying the picture, so I am staying away from these threads so I don't find problems to look for!!
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post #569 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 07:33 PM
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Right now I am really enjoying the picture, so I am staying away from these threads so I don't find problems to look for!!

I've learned that this can be some good advice at times too.

I hope that those who have read my previous posts review my latest ones after I've learned more about DLP first hand. I've seen so many wonderful images with the 5679 (CSI on CBS, D-Theater Movies, Discovery HD programs, 'good' DVDs, etc.) that I don't want anything to take away from those experiences.

Also for me, right now and in the short term future, there really isn't any other type of display I need or want. I know there is a 52" LED DLP from another company being released in September but I don't want anything less than 56" (I would like larger but 56" is the largest I can fit in my space - this saves me money ). After experiencing LED DLP tech and seeing it up close first hand, no lamp/color wheel DLP is going to do it for me. The 1080p wobulated display seems absolutely great to me. If you are seated 6' (recommended distance) or more from the display you will too because you just can NOT see wobulation or rainbows, period. Furthermore, I like the new 1080p LCDs and Plasmas flat panel displays but at, near or greater than 56", everyone can see why a $4,000 DLP ain't that bad a deal.

I can't speak for those that have mentioned the set didn't hold up all that great in sunlight filled rooms but I can say I haven't had any issues with the display in my medium (no direct sunlight on the screen) room or with the over head lights on at night.

After adjusting from CRT to DLP a little better and 'tweaking out', I'm just going to be enjoying the tv more and be posting less.
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post #570 of 2937 Old 09-06-2006, 08:16 PM
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Right now I am really enjoying the picture, so I am staying away from these threads so I don't find problems to look for!!

Before you say goodbye you might want to take a look at Eliab's tips and his DVE link for instructions.

Eliab on user calibration with DVE instructions.
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