Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 85 - AVS Forum
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post #2521 of 2944 Old 09-07-2009, 06:26 PM
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My Samsung HLS 5679W has been out of commission for three months and I almost ready to throw in the towel. After reading so many success stories in the forum, I was sure that replacing the power supply board would provide a quick remedy to the "three blinking lights syndrome". At the suggestion of a Samsung technician, I purchased and installed a new board from Samsung, but I'm still getting the same symptoms. Is it possible that the board itself is defective (no evidence of blown caps)? Any way to test new board?

I'm past the point of desperation......any last minute suggestions before I haul it to the heap?! Thanks.
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post #2522 of 2944 Old 09-08-2009, 05:04 AM
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Originally Posted by RickTick View Post

My Samsung HLS 5679W has been out of commission for three months and I almost ready to throw in the towel. After reading so many success stories in the forum, I was sure that replacing the power supply board would provide a quick remedy to the "three blinking lights syndrome". At the suggestion of a Samsung technician, I purchased and installed a new board from Samsung, but I'm still getting the same symptoms. Is it possible that the board itself is defective (no evidence of blown caps)? Any way to test new board?

I'm past the point of desperation......any last minute suggestions before I haul it to the heap?! Thanks.

When you removed the old board, did you see any visible defects on the old board capacitors? Also, did any of the symptoms and reactions of the TV change at all when you replaced the board? I ask because if everything is identical, it could either be 1) both the old board and the new board are bad, or 2) the board is not the issue - something else is creating the problem...

If you already had a samsung technician over, I would give ECR a call and let them hear it... If I have a certified technician over, I sure as hell expect them to fix my TV or tell me exactly how to do it... Don't give up man.

EDIT: When I was replacing my board, I noticed that the 20 pin cable did not easily plug back into the power board. Double check to ensure that the cable is properly inserted into the board and is connected properly. If this isn't connected properly, I do not think the TV will power on.
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post #2523 of 2944 Old 09-08-2009, 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by magester View Post

Alright - so my TV finally got the 3 blinking lights of death. The TV had lasted approximately 3 months with the "power cycling" issue and had always eventually turned on. Not today...

Good thing I have the new replacement board that I ordered 3 weeks ago. However, it is in my desk drawer at my office, so I will have to wait until tomorrow evening to do the replacement. I wanted to be prepared, so I took the lower cover off this afternoon and pulled the old board (first time I pulled the cover off, so I wansn't entirely sure I had the capacitor issue...). Upon opening the cover, I found that the vast majority of the capacitors were in good shape. However, there was one that looked absolutely horrible and had this copper colored residue leaking from both the top and bottom. I imagine this is the suspect causing the blinking lights of death. I attached a pic for any of you that are interested.

So, I am planning to replace the board tomorrow. Anyone willing to help out with some sodering work on the old board? I would love to ship my board to one of the experts that may be able to replace some of the capacitors. That way I have a backup board for when this one fails. We could set up some sort of payment for your help!

Alright - Good news! I swapped the board tonight and powered the TV and everything works perfectly! No power cycling or anything! I am so pumped. The swap took only about 10-15 minutes max... There are only 4 connections to unplug and plug back in, the majority of the time is taken up by unscrewing and rescrewing the cover back together - 15 screws in total!

I am still looking for someone that can swap some cap's on my old board so that I have a spare - anyone interested in some extra pocket cash or beer money??
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post #2524 of 2944 Old 09-12-2009, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RickTick View Post

My Samsung HLS 5679W has been out of commission for three months and I almost ready to throw in the towel. After reading so many success stories in the forum, I was sure that replacing the power supply board would provide a quick remedy to the "three blinking lights syndrome". At the suggestion of a Samsung technician, I purchased and installed a new board from Samsung, but I'm still getting the same symptoms. Is it possible that the board itself is defective (no evidence of blown caps)? Any way to test new board?

I'm past the point of desperation......any last minute suggestions before I haul it to the heap?! Thanks.

If it was like mine, it could be the Light Engine. Similar problems and i thought mine was the caps too. Glad it was the Light Engine though because i got my LN55B650 out of the deal. Altho i was still in extended warranty period.
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post #2525 of 2944 Old 09-14-2009, 03:46 PM
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My Samsung has started having problems recently. Up until about a month ago, starting up the TV would go like this:
  • Click click noise
  • Startup jingle
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Normal picture.

More recently, the startup goes like this:
  • Click click noise
  • Startup jingle
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Dim red flash across the top of the screen
  • Screen then displays deep black (like it's off)
  • Start up jingle plays again
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Then normal picture.

Within the last two days, the TV has started going through the process three times rather than just twice. A somewhat foreboding sign.

I bought an extended warranty through Tape Works, but it seems as though people are having some luck griping to Samsung about the issue. How would any of you recommend I go about nipping this issue in the bud before I have a TV that won't start up at all, or will I have to wait for that before I can reasonably expect that anything be done?
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post #2526 of 2944 Old 09-15-2009, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by forrestd View Post

My Samsung has started having problems recently. Up until about a month ago, starting up the TV would go like this:
  • Click click noise
  • Startup jingle
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Normal picture.

More recently, the startup goes like this:
  • Click click noise
  • Startup jingle
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Dim red flash across the top of the screen
  • Screen then displays deep black (like it's off)
  • Start up jingle plays again
  • Couple dim flashes
  • Then normal picture.

Within the last two days, the TV has started going through the process three times rather than just twice. A somewhat foreboding sign.

I bought an extended warranty through Tape Works, but it seems as though people are having some luck griping to Samsung about the issue. How would any of you recommend I go about nipping this issue in the bud before I have a TV that won't start up at all, or will I have to wait for that before I can reasonably expect that anything be done?


Forrest - Your issue sounds identical to mine, but is in the very early stages of the power cycling issue. It seems that the time until final failure varies in each case, but could range from sometime in the next week until a few months from now. My TV lasted for a total of 4 months from when I had the first issue! However, as time progresses, the issue will get worse and the TV will take longer and longer to turn on. My TV would cycle anywhere from 1 or 2 times up to 15+ times (equivalent of 15-20 minutes).

So that is what you should expect. Now, here is my advice moving forward. First, if your TV is out of warranty, Samsung will do nothing, but try your hardest by pestering their ECR at 1-800-522-7341. Next, if you purchased the TV on a credit card, call your cc company immediately and find out what you are covered under. If it is within 2 years of your purchase, you should be eligible to receive a reimbursement for repair or full reimbursement if the repair is more than than your purchase price. I did this through Visa and submitted a quote I put together to receive full reimbursement Lastly, purchase the replacement board for $89 through Encompass (I believe the link is in page 84). This will be the board that you need to swap from the TV - total replacement time will take approximately 30 minutes max. If you want to verify that you do infact have the power cycling issue prior to ordering the new board from Encompass, remove the back case of the TV, and check to see if any of the capacitors under the heatsink have any signs of degredation/failure. I did not check this prior to my tv no longer turning on, so I am not sure if you will see any degredation. I am ~ 95% sure that this is your issue though. You can reference the picture I provided above (on page 85) that shows the issue that I had with one of the 8 capacitors.

Good luck man! Just know that you are in good hands because there are many of us that went through this issue and have come out successfully. It probably is not a good idea to call the Samsung "Repair Man", because he will charge you $100+ just for showing up and probably won't even be able to tell you as much as this forum or I just told you in this post. Please let us know how it goes!


All the best,

Adam
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post #2527 of 2944 Old 09-15-2009, 07:32 PM
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Those symptoms sound identical to what I've expericenced forrestd. And I should know. I'm on my THIRD power supply board since I've purchased my TV approximately 2 years ago.

Take magester's advice. If you're out of warranty you could try your luck with Samsung's ECR. If they insist on sending a technician to come and check out the set and have that come out of your pocket, then you're better off saving that money to get yourself a new power supply board, or having a local repair shop swap the capacitors. Switching the power supply boards is really simple if you do decide to get a new board.
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post #2528 of 2944 Old 09-18-2009, 06:41 PM
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The last time I was in this thread was shopping for a TV, everybody was discussing specs, how wonderful it was at its price point, etc.

TV dies the other day, I drop back in, and the conversation is magically updated to my current concerns! I love the internet!
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post #2529 of 2944 Old 09-20-2009, 05:56 PM
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I've joined the bandwagon! This thread is such a wonderful source of info! Even despite the unfortunate circumstance. And I'm keeping the thread alive!

We purchased the TV in July 2007 via Amazon. Just like everyone, blown away by its crispness and sound. By November, we got the 3 flashing lights and no picture/sound. Samsung and repair company dragged their butts, and after 3 months, they replaced the LED engine, which did the trick.

But alas, it was shortlived. Our TV died again back in July. We got the flashing LCD light and zilch. No picture, no sound. Not even the jingle. We were really fortunate in that we barely hit the 2 year warranty period. After a month of dealing with the repair shop, the repair guy gave up and they gave us a refund on our overpriced paperweight. So this is essentially a free tv (minus 1 yr extended warranty).

However, I am not ready to give up on our beloved TV/paperweight, so here I am. I blew compressed air through the fans, and let the TV cycle about a dozen times, and whatdyaknow, it comes on! I'm not sure if the air through the fans did anything but there was a lot of dust (a given after 2 years, I hope). But I do see that couple of the capacitors are bulging in the powersupply like some of the pictures that have been posted (love you guys!)

It does take about a half dozen times to cycle each time we turn on before we get any picture though, so I do think it's a matter of time before it just stops coming on altogether. We'll be taking the powersupply into a repair shop to replace the capacitors, so hopefully this does the trick.
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post #2530 of 2944 Old 09-24-2009, 03:27 PM
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Yes, misery does love company. I, too am experiencing the repeated on/off cycling problem. So far, the TV continues to (eventually) operate. So, it appears that replacing the power supply board is the way to go? I doubt I could do this myself, but I'm hoping a local repairman will if I explain the situation. Thanks to everyone on this wonderful site, I think I now know more about this TV than these guys in town who repair them.
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post #2531 of 2944 Old 09-25-2009, 06:29 AM
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Originally Posted by rainbowherbert View Post

Yes, misery does love company. I, too am experiencing the repeated on/off cycling problem. So far, the TV continues to (eventually) operate. So, it appears that replacing the power supply board is the way to go? I doubt I could do this myself, but I'm hoping a local repairman will if I explain the situation. Thanks to everyone on this wonderful site, I think I now know more about this TV than these guys in town who repair them.

Rainbowherbert - I can't stress enough how simple the board replacement is. It is quite simply the removal of 15 screws from the outside of the back lower plastic cover, then 1 additional screw removal and unplugging of 4 wires. Plug the wires into the new board and replace the cover. It really is that simple!!! I would hate to see you even pay $50 to someone to do the swap for you!
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post #2532 of 2944 Old 09-25-2009, 09:55 AM
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Hello dlp owners,

I have 3 samsung dlp and 2 are led but my questio. Is actually for the hl-t6756 lamp based model.

This just happens to be one of the most active samsung dlp threads it seems so I'm hoping it's the same for all models.

I seem to have a piece of dust/debris or dead bug on the mirror or light source and need to get in the tv to clear it.

I'm asuming the best way us through the round acces pa els on the side of the tv?

How do you get those off?

I can pry it open at the top and bottom but the sides seem locked and I didn't want to force the circular panel off and break it.
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post #2533 of 2944 Old 09-25-2009, 12:17 PM
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Hello dlp owners,

I have 3 samsung dlp and 2 are led but my questio. Is actually for the hl-t6756 lamp based model.

This just happens to be one of the most active samsung dlp threads it seems so I'm hoping it's the same for all models.

I seem to have a piece of dust/debris or dead bug on the mirror or light source and need to get in the tv to clear it.

I'm asuming the best way us through the round acces pa els on the side of the tv?

How do you get those off?

I can pry it open at the top and bottom but the sides semmedocked and I didn't want to force the circular panel off and break it.

Yes, those round panels are access holes to get to the lens, screen and mirror, at least for the 5679.

For the 5679, there is an oblong clip that has to be popped off by pressing one end, then getting a fingernail of flat screwdriver under the other end of the clip to pop it off. Under the clip is a screw that needs to be removed. Once that screw is removed the round panel pulls right off.

May not be the same for your model though.
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post #2534 of 2944 Old 09-25-2009, 01:07 PM
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Magester - Thanks for the vote of confidence. I've just ordered the part from Encompass. When it arrives, I shall don my surgical garb and submerge myself in the rancid bowels of this defective contraption!! I'll keep you posted.
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post #2535 of 2944 Old 09-25-2009, 03:38 PM
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Originally Posted by kmp14 View Post

Yes, those round panels are access holes to get to the lens, screen and mirror, at least for the 5679.

For the 5679, there is an oblong clip that has to be popped off by pressing one end, then getting a fingernail of flat screwdriver under the other end of the clip to pop it off. Under the clip is a screw that needs to be removed. Once that screw is removed the round panel pulls right off.

May not be the same for your model though.

thanks. after you said that i was then suddenly able to get that tab off. as it is though whateve was in there disappeared so it must have been a bug that crawled away that or if it was dust , the fans in there blew it away cus suddenly it wasn't there today.

thanks again though as that will come in handy when i need to get in there. I've just been lucky enough wiht a few dlps to never need to open up the side access panels.
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post #2536 of 2944 Old 10-03-2009, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by magester View Post

Rainbowherbert - I can't stress enough how simple the board replacement is. It is quite simply the removal of 15 screws from the outside of the back lower plastic cover, then 1 additional screw removal and unplugging of 4 wires. Plug the wires into the new board and replace the cover. It really is that simple!!! I would hate to see you even pay $50 to someone to do the swap for you!


Success!!! Victory is mine! Replacement board installed and set powered up immediately. Now, this begs the question: Will it happen again in another 24-30 months? Is this problem due to internal heat build-up? Would an additional cooling fan blowing in the back vents near this board be beneficial?
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post #2537 of 2944 Old 10-05-2009, 05:19 AM
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Success!!! Victory is mine! Replacement board installed and set powered up immediately. Now, this begs the question: Will it happen again in another 24-30 months? Is this problem due to internal heat build-up? Would an additional cooling fan blowing in the back vents near this board be beneficial?

That is an excellent question. Some people have had the issue happen again after another 1-2 years. However, to my knowledge, everyones replacement board has had the same capacitor's on the board. The one I ordered from encompass actually has different capacitors - as I imagine all boards from encompass do. I am hoping that these new capacitors are more highly rated than the origonal capacitors.

I am not sure if a cooling fan would help, I kinda just think the capacitors are crap and don't last. I am thinking this because I only had 1 cap that went bad on my board and it was one of the ones that has a decent size gap under the heatsink. All those that were right up again the heatsink / touching the heatsink were fine and did not leak or go bad... either way, I dont mind replacing the board again in 2 years. I am actually going to spend $25 and buy all new caps to have them replaced on the board. This way I have a back up - I suggest everyone else do the same.
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post #2538 of 2944 Old 10-09-2009, 04:56 PM
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Hello all,

I have the Samsung HLS-5679W, and after about a year and a half, I got hit with the power cycling issue. Repaired courtesy of extended warranty through credit card company. Now it's 26 months since purchase and I have a new problem: I turn on the TV, hear a click, then the LED light on the front panel blinks for about one minute. Then all lights on the front panel turn off for about 10 seconds, I heard one more click, then it goes back to the red STAND BY/TEMP light. The whole time, there is no picture that appears. This seems to be different from the power cycling problem -- has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions? I'm so pissed that this television has been frought with problems, not only for me, but it seems like for many users. I feel like class action suit would be appropriate...

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated, since I'm not a huge electronics wizard...

-Steven
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post #2539 of 2944 Old 10-10-2009, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sl7z View Post

Hello all,

I have the Samsung HLS-5679W, and after about a year and a half, I got hit with the power cycling issue. Repaired courtesy of extended warranty through credit card company. Now it's 26 months since purchase and I have a new problem: I turn on the TV, hear a click, then the LED light on the front panel blinks for about one minute. Then all lights on the front panel turn off for about 10 seconds, I heard one more click, then it goes back to the red STAND BY/TEMP light. The whole time, there is no picture that appears. This seems to be different from the power cycling problem -- has anyone had this problem? Any suggestions? I'm so pissed that this television has been frought with problems, not only for me, but it seems like for many users. I feel like class action suit would be appropriate...

Any help/suggestions would be appreciated, since I'm not a huge electronics wizard...

-Steven

I have the same issue after replacing the caps!!! Never again will I purchase a SAMSUCK product!!!! FOR SALE!! FOR REPLACEMENT PARTS. I have spent too much time and money on this crap!!! I will take $400 for this piece of sh**!!! or best offer. I am in the Fontana, CA area. Please email me at chingadera2004@gmail.com for serious offers. Thank you.
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post #2540 of 2944 Old 10-12-2009, 09:53 PM
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Hi all,

I just want to say thank you to all of you who had contributed into this thread. It saved me a lot of headaches, time and energy.

I had the 3 rings of death and then I came across this post. Purchased the power supply board from encompass and got the parts a couple of days ago.

Replaced the board and the TV turned on successfully.

Then after just one day, the TV will turn on after 3 - 4 cycles and blinks the 'LED' light in the front while it is booting up. While the TV is on, it will only display a picture with very dim blue colors and with a resolution with no more than 200x200. Seems like the TV is blowing up the picture and displaying only the top left corner of a full picture.

I have searched for SAMSUNG 5679 calibration on this forum and on the internet, but with no success. I have run out of ideas. I have checked the cables on the power supply board and they are properly plugged in and I didn't yank any cables during the process of replacing the board.

Any insights, any thoughts and any pointers will definitely be appreciated.

Thanks in advanced.
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post #2541 of 2944 Old 10-15-2009, 11:05 PM
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My set finally died an hour ago. I was watching over the air HD when I got the lost/weak signal message. I tried to change the channel, input, volume, but nothing would respond. I unpluged the set for a few minutes and when I plugged it in, I got the LED blinking light. I tried turning it off and on but now get the red ring of death. I've had the set for over 2.5 years now and was expecting the capacitor issue to rear it's ugly head at some point.

I just ordered a replacement board from encompass, so hopefully that will fix the problem. -Mikey
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post #2542 of 2944 Old 10-16-2009, 11:58 AM
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Purchased the set in June of 2007 and it worked fine all this time until about 2 weeks ago when intermittenly it would not power on properly, would start power cycle when I turned it on but would turn off and would have to power on again. After I purchased the set, I found this forum and read about the problems with the power supply and am glad I did. Would read the posts periodically (even though I was not having any problems) and got educated on what to do when and if it started. Thanks to all that posted.

Purchased the board from Encompass and installed it and it works fine. Found 2 of the smaller maroon capacitors on the old board that were leaking at the top and plan eventually on getting them replaced so I have a spare board.

The new board looks exactly the same as the old one, both are revision 1.0 and the capacitors all look the same so I guess in a few years might have problems again. A previous post mentioned about attaching a small fan (like computer case cooling fans) to cool the power supply area. Considering trying that except that those fans are all 12v I believe, so would not know where to power it, any ideas?
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post #2543 of 2944 Old 10-16-2009, 08:16 PM
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light engine is sold
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post #2544 of 2944 Old 10-19-2009, 06:32 PM
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I just wanted to post my experience since this thread did it for me: I also had the power-supply problem and a new PS fixed my TV.

According to the manual when the three lights of death came on, I though the light engine was done; A call to the Samsung customer hotline confirmed that the light engine needed to be replaced. I was pretty mad having bought a TV which is supposed to last 20,000 hours and now stopped working after probably only 1,500 hours of use.

Of course my warranty had expired by about 6 months so customer service didn't want to help. I can still remember the second customer rep who agreed with me that he wouldn't buy Samsung again! (I wonder if he got fired in the meantime) Also, opening a case with the ECR didn't help, it looked like I had to shell out big money for a new light engine.

As a last resort I wrote a formal complaint to the President of Samsung N.A.. ECR will provide you with the address when you ask where you can send a formal complaint to. I wrote them how disappointed I was with Samsung and their customer support . I also attached the original product flyer for the TV. The flyer specifically states that the light engine is supposed to last 20,000 hours. A couple of weeks later I had a voicemail from the ECR stating that, as a one-time courtesy, they would send me the replacement part. I had also mentioned in my letter that I would replace it myself if that would make the decision easier for them.

Of course, since the power supply was the culprit, I was pretty disappointed when I installed the new light engine and the TV still didn't turn on. Luckily I found this thread the same night, and it confirmed my suspicion that it was the power supply . In my case, at the end, I could also hear a slight high pitched noise which I had heard before on a failed PS

Bottom line: if you buy Samsung get an extended warranty either from the retailer or through a credit card (I looked at my credit card agreement and apparently you have to register your device right after you make the purchase to be eligible for the extended warranty)

I did put my old light engine in again, hopefully it'll last another 18,000 hours. In case it doesn't I have new one sitting in the basement now

Thanks again for all the posts in this forum which helped me to fix my TV!
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post #2545 of 2944 Old 10-23-2009, 03:29 AM
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I have thie 3 LED power cycling issue (I unplugged and it worked for 5 months or so and now it doesn't turn on with the 3 blinking LEDs), my model is 5687s, can anyone advise me about the power supply board model number? The same? BP96-01494A

Thank you all in advance.

I have attached pictures of my power supply board (it's not the same model number...), at the following post which relates to my model, can any one comment on the chewing gum like substance or perhaps can tell if the power supply board is fried?

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post17414960
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post #2546 of 2944 Old 10-23-2009, 05:42 AM
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every once in a while I get green artifacts like green haze on the picture and it is not in any certain area. It happens on any input and I have tried resetting the tv and unpluging it. It takes a while for the green haze to go away so there is no specific time frame. The haze will show up mostly on the right side of the screen. If anybody can point me in the right direction that would be great.
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post #2547 of 2944 Old 10-23-2009, 10:50 AM
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I just had my power supply board kick the bucket. Luckily Visa picked up the tab under their extended warranty protection. Good to know that there are other solutions available though, as I suspect this board will end up dying on me as well.

Has there been any new firmware released for this set? Is there a ChangeLog? How can I tell which version my set is currently running?

Lastly, does this set have a picture settings thread anywhere? I was only able to find this thread via the forum search.
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post #2548 of 2944 Old 10-28-2009, 07:20 PM
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Replaced the power board couple of weeks ago and looking at the position of the heatsink under which were the 2 bad capacitors, I felt that it probably was not getting enought cooling in that area. The cover does have a lot of ventilation slots but there is no cooling fan inside in the power board area, and the cover in that area felt warm when the set is on.

So i improvised cooling, ordered a 90mm computer case cooling fan with 4 pin molex connector and a power converter 120V to 12V 4 pin molex out, cost about $20 with shipping. Screwed the fan on all four corners into the cover where the ventilation slots are right opposite the power board. Screws are self tapping and went right into the plastic. Have the van blowing in and enough air gets thru the slots as I did open that sice of the cover enough to stick my hand in and felt the airflow. The fan is very quiet, do not notice it at all and the cover feels cool even after the set has been on for hours. Have the power adapter plugged into a wal outlet that has one of it's plugs controlled by wall switch, so use that to turn the fan on and off since it is not controlled by the TV.

Hopefully this will allows the new power board to last a long time, worth the try, easy to do and minimal cost.
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post #2549 of 2944 Old 10-29-2009, 07:20 AM
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I just wanted to say thanks to everyone on this Samsung issue. I had the same problem with the power board. I ordered a new one, had it in 2 days and my TV was back up and running.
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post #2550 of 2944 Old 11-01-2009, 03:23 PM
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Add me to the list:

Purchased in 7/2006 from Amazon and had been working great.

Last week, I turned on the TV and it just wouldn't stop power cycling. This was after the TV had been "idle" for a good week or so. I thought it was my Harmony acting up, but it's happened a few times since then (3).

It seems to be working fine now, but it does sound like I'm yet another on the list.

I may just order the board off Encompass to be ready to replace if it does go down. I'll probably order some capacitors and a soldering tool to play with the "old" board, as well, get a little electronics catch-up lesson. I'll give Samsung ECS or what-ever a shot first, though.

The sad thing is, the TV maybe gets 4-5 hours of use a week max, and my piece of junk Polaroid 32" LCD has been going strong for years.
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