2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 22 - AVS Forum
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post #631 of 2650 Old 10-15-2006, 10:10 PM
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I avoid NetCommand and use a programmable remote like the Universal MX350. I assume that you are learning the function. If so, play with the timing of the button presses. With many of the harder to get code streams altering how long you press the key on the original remote can affect how well it is learned.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #632 of 2650 Old 10-15-2006, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

What would a "proper review" be? What do you want to know? I have done quite abit of experimenting with the sets to get them calibrated properly. I can generally get gray scale to track properly and color decoding very close to where it should be but the gamma is a bit high, IMO (2.3 overall at best, and somewhat higher in the low levels). Generally, the sets look very good and can be calibrated to be even better. Like most other products in this category, there is great variability in how various combinations of signal conversion and interlace/de-interlacing perform, but the bottom line is that they look best when minimizing the conversions befor the set sees the signal. They are not perfect, but quite good and few people who are not looking for problems would find much to criticize.

I had Kevin calibrate my Mits WS8565 back in '02 and saw a big difference! I was very happy after he came. I was curious how Mits' new LCD's compare to the CRT's in terms of PQ. I've also heard some say that calibration isn't as necessary anymore, but I'm not convinced that that's necessarily true. And I'm definitely not one to go into the guts and start messing around with adjustments and codes!

But as far as a proper review, I was just a little surprised by the dearth of articles on the set. It's a BIG investment and I know I'm not alone in wanting to be sure that it's really worthwhile. At any rate, I appreciate your thoughts on it. It does sound great. My own 65 didn't sell on Ebay, but I'll give it another whirl when I get back from vacation and we'll see what happens.
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post #633 of 2650 Old 10-15-2006, 11:33 PM
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As far as minimizing upconversion is concerned, does that mean I should continue to have the current DVD player upconvert (my Zenith purportedly upconverts 480i to 1080i), and when I get a second-gen Blu-Ray or HD-DVD (which I imagine will output a native 720p or 1080i signal)? That won't cause a conflict of interest with the Mits then upconverting that signal to 1080p?? Or is that actually helpful for it?

I'll also be getting the FIOS fiber-optic system (a lot of channels, great price). Aside from their HD programming, I imagine that most channels are still broadcasting in low-res. Are you saying that those channels are going to look pretty bad on the 732 because of its inherent upconversion? Or is there a feature that shuts off the upconversion (if that in fact would be an improvement)?

This forum is great, and I'm grateful for it, but for the average consumer there's simply NOT enough information out there. While I'm sure all these sets are selling well enough, I think these TV companies are failing to educate the consumer to bring them in line with the new technology and how to really benefit by it.
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post #634 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CJayB View Post

The screen on my 65732 is very reflective, depending on lighting conditions and angle of view. I have a feeling that those who are saying the 831 screen has changed are noticing this, not an actual change in the screen. The screen on the 732 looks much different in my home than it did in the showrooms where I first looked at it. I really doubt though that my screen is different from the screens I saw before I bought it. I also looked at the 831 screen and it looked the same as the 732 in the showroom.

Smeeg says that the screen on his new set is much more reflective than the screen on his old unit, also there are significant viewing characteristic differences. I'm sure he'd know. The pictures he posted of his new screen are definitely more reflective than my 65732. I looked at my set in the same angle as his pic, I have an east facing window shining on my set, the reflection on my screen is matted significantly more than Smeeg's.
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post #635 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 04:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jreed View Post

My biggest problem is the sound of the fan/color wheel. With the sound turned down or off the noise is loud enough to be a problem. I sometimes listen to the 732 with headphones while my wife is reading and the sound of the fan/wheel is annoying to her. Is this normal or should I have someone look at it. Jerry

You may want to get it looked at. In a room quiet as a tomb, there is and will always be a very small amount of fan noise. However, it should not be an objectionable amount and more importantly, it should be completely overridden by the speakers at virtually all comfortable listening levels. If you can still hear it with the speakers on then call Mits for service. They know about the problem. Fortunately it is not occurring in every set. Based on reports here on AVS it looks to be around 10% or less of the sets that are affected. I haven't heard what the fix is, tho a few here have simply had their dealer exchange the set for another.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #636 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

I agree, the whole issue is pretty silly. Trying to make sense of the marketing BS is futile. If you like the pix and the price is right, buy it. Otherwise, don't.

The most reasonable explanation that I have heard from them is that the screen was designed for the higher output lamp, hence the difference in descriptions. No one that I have talked to has maintained that they are different, just that the sets perform differently and that comes from sales. Well, with the higher output lamp, of course they perform differently. My guess is that somewhere along the way the descriptions got translated into sales hyperbole that started the whole mess.

Mitsubishi is typically very consistent in their statements. They say very little. Their refusal to be open combined with their adherance to trademarked buzzword "technologies" makes them look pretty silly and hurts them more than they know. For a company that produces such a good product and takes care of their customers so well, you would think they would figure it out.

If the screens are the same in the 732/831 just that it is "tuned" for the 180w lamp, whats stopping people from putting a 180w lamp in a 732 to get the "high contrast picture" is there a difference in the light engine the 2 use?
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post #637 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 09:08 AM
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Hey,

Can a guy pipe in a feed that only uses a portion of his screen size? What I mean is that I'm looking at the 65732 and am concerned that some feeds I might want to run might be substandard. Do you know if I can show a picture the size of a 57" on a 65" set and have black bars all the way around? Some inputs just shouldn't be shown that large. Any ideas, is there a way?

Thanks,
Aaron
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post #638 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 09:30 AM
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I just bought the 65732 and am impresed with DVD pic and most HD programs I watched the sunday night football game and it seems that during low action shots the pic is awsome, however during the play it seems that the responce time sucks and it goes out of focus for a brief second. Also reg programing non-HD is alway out of focus.

Is this the way this TV will preform? or is there a fix? If no fix i will probably return it.
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post #639 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 09:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by rstretz View Post

I just bouth the 65732 and am impresed with DVD pic and most HD programs I watched the sunday night football game and it seems that during low action shots the pic is awsome, however during the play it seems that the responce time sucks and it goes out of focus for a brief second. Also reg programing non-HD is alway out of focus.

Is this the way this TV will preform? or is there a fix? If no fix i will probably return it.

Where is your HD signal coming from, cable, satellite or over-the-air? If satellite and you're using one of the new sat-HD receivers (or DVRs) then the fast-motion artifacts you're seeing could be due to the compression the SAT provider is using. DirecTV satellite HD looks great on HDNet, DiscoveryHD, etc. but not so great on your local network stations because of compressiono. I'm seriously considering trying cable and I once swore I'd never go back to cable. Local HD from a standard OTA antenna look magnificent, no fast-motion artifacts. Perfect reception.

Standard (non HD) looks like soft focus because you're blowing up a very low-resolution picture to fill a huge screen. Take a look at CNN or FOX News during a live broadcats. That's about the best it will be. Yes, it takes some getting used to, which is why out new 65" HD TV is not the primary "watching-TV" set in our house. Most our viewing is on a couple conventional 27" sets (bedroom & kitchen). - We go to the HD set to watch HD, DVDs, live sports, etc.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #640 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Thesithempire View Post

As far as minimizing upconversion is concerned, does that mean I should continue to have the current DVD player upconvert (my Zenith purportedly upconverts 480i to 1080i), and when I get a second-gen Blu-Ray or HD-DVD (which I imagine will output a native 720p or 1080i signal)? That won't cause a conflict of interest with the Mits then upconverting that signal to 1080p?? Or is that actually helpful for it?

I'll also be getting the FIOS fiber-optic system (a lot of channels, great price). Aside from their HD programming, I imagine that most channels are still broadcasting in low-res. Are you saying that those channels are going to look pretty bad on the 732 because of its inherent upconversion? Or is there a feature that shuts off the upconversion (if that in fact would be an improvement)?

This forum is great, and I'm grateful for it, but for the average consumer there's simply NOT enough information out there. While I'm sure all these sets are selling well enough, I think these TV companies are failing to educate the consumer to bring them in line with the new technology and how to really benefit by it.

I have the FIOS system and its great. The quality and price are excellent. We did a ton of A-B testing to try to set the parameters. The options you have on the Motorola 6416 STB are fairly limited. The SD can be set to output at 480i or 480p. After a lot of eyeball checking, we decided on 480p. SD looks as good as can be expected on these sets. With decent source, it looks very good, IMHO.
For HD, there is a debate between setting the STB to 720p or 1080i. Apparently ESPN and only a couple other channels transmit in 720p. It may be better for these channels to have the STB in 720p. All other channels transmit in 1080i. The 6416 does not have a "passthru" setting, and even if it did, the Mits take a secord or two and blinks to switch input modes, so I am not sure I'd like that to happen every time I surf channels.
Argument for 720p is that if you love sports on ESPN, that channel MAY be better. And according to UMR/Capn's calibration of a 732, the MITS MAY be less than stellar at reverse telecline (1080i to 1080p conversion).
Argument for 1080i is that 1080i is better resolution. MOST channels transmit in 1080i.
After a lot of side-by-side checks, with source and HDNET test patterns that are transmitted every Tuesday at 8am, we decided on setting the STB to 1080i. Capn decided on 720p. However, its apparently a close call on a lot of programming. So, you pays your money and takes your choice. OTOH, we watch a lot of movies and not a lot of sports. Your mileage may vary.
We have an older DVD player that outputs only in 480i. Quality is good on the Mits. It would probably be better if we had a progressive DVD player and set the output to 480p. I believe Capn decided to let his Oppo output in 720p (this is from memory--Capn might comment). We did try running the DVD player through the Yamaha upconverting RXV2700, which has what purports to be an excellent upconverting chip set, and let the Yamaha run the DVD signal to 480p. There was no discernable difference between 480i direct to the Mits and 480i to Yamaha 480p to Mits.

So, to net it out, we have our 6416 FIOS STB set to 1080i for HD and 480p for SD. Quality is excellent on both, in the opinions of both my wife and myself, subject only to the quality of the source itself. We set the DVD to plug directly into the Mits and of course it is 480i.

We watched Star Wars III last night, with the full 5.1 sound of the Yamaha. It was awesome. The story was even fairly decent, much better than Star Wars I and II, and probably about 3rd in quality in the Star Wars Line (We like V, then IV, then III best for storyline. I and II and VI are all pretty dismal.) Effects and sound were excellent.

PS: My intent is to wait until the Bluray/HD_DVD format wars are done, then purchase a player that outputs directly in 1080p. Then the DVD resolution issues will be moot.
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post #641 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Where is your HD signal coming from, cable, satellite or over-the-air? If satellite and you're using one of the new sat-HD receivers (or DVRs) then the fast-motion artifacts you're seeing could be due to the compression the SAT provider is using. DirecTV satellite HD looks great on HDNet, DiscoveryHD, etc. but not so great on your local network stations because of compressiono. I'm seriously considering trying cable and I once swore I'd never go back to cable. Local HD from a standard OTA antenna look magnificent, no fast-motion artifacts. Perfect reception.

Standard (non HD) looks like soft focus because you're blowing up a very low-resolution picture to fill a huge screen. Take a look at CNN or FOX News during a live broadcats. That's about the best it will be. Yes, it takes some getting used to, which is why out new 65" HD TV is not the primary "watching-TV" set in our house. Most our viewing is on a couple conventional 27" sets (bedroom & kitchen). - We go to the HD set to watch HD, DVDs, live sports, etc.

I have cable HD hooked up threw HDMI. The HD channels are great DiscHD TNT the local HD broadcasts thru the cable is just awsome I love football and Nascar and am currious to see what a Nascar race looks like if it will have the fast motion artifacts. I would be pretty dissapointed if it does. $3200 for a TV that does not show a football game perfectly would just have to be returned. I will see how it is on ESPN HD tonight.
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post #642 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 11:47 AM
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Don't the motion artifacts generally come from the source, not the display?

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post #643 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r3plica View Post

If the screens are the same in the 732/831 just that it is "tuned" for the 180w lamp, whats stopping people from putting a 180w lamp in a 732 to get the "high contrast picture" is there a difference in the light engine the 2 use?

I would not assume that the light engine or housing is able to deal witht he extra heat. I also don't know what changes are made in the light engine to account for possible differences in color temperature and output linearity of the lamps. It might work, but why do you need the extra output anyway?

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post #644 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 12:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rstretz View Post

I have cable HD hooked up threw HDMI. The HD channels are great DiscHD TNT the local HD broadcasts thru the cable is just awsome I love football and Nascar and am currious to see what a Nascar race looks like if it will have the fast motion artifacts. I would be pretty dissapointed if it does. $3200 for a TV that does not show a football game perfectly would just have to be returned. I will see how it is on ESPN HD tonight.

Any issues I've had with artifacts are due to the source.

Whenever I can get the same programming from OTA, there are no artifacts and the picture is literally as flawless as it could be. Absolutely no complaints on OTA programming. Now then, programming from DirecTV's MPEG-4 compressed HD locals, well that's a whole other matter.

I talked to DTV over the weekend, they want to send the roof monkey back out to realign my dish. Obviously they have not a clue. I told the CSR it is not a dish alignment issue, but rather a problem with the quality of their signal, not the strength of it. The CSR was sure the roof monkey would be able to fix it. Yeah, right.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #645 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

I would not assume that the light engine or housing is able to deal witht he extra heat. I also don't know what changes are made in the light engine to account for possible differences in color temperature and output linearity of the lamps.

I find it hard to believe that design safety tolerances would have so little headroom as to be unable to deal with a mere 20% variance in the wattage of the lamp.

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It might work, but why do you need the extra output anyway?

Once again, the operative statement is made.

With calibration being performed at "Natural" picture setting and the whole thing literally having to be reigned-in from "torch mode" to something for the average person's living room that we can all watch without burining the retina in our eyes, I cannot believe that 180 watts would ever be preferable to 150.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #646 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

I find it hard to believe that design safety tolerances would have so little headroom as to be unable to deal with a mere 20% variance in the wattage of the lamp.

I agree that would be the case if I designed it, but I have learned long ago in the consumer electronics business that reasonable assumptions often bite you in the backside.

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post #647 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 01:45 PM
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Whenever I can get the same programming from OTA, there are no artifacts and the picture is literally as flawless as it could be.

Really? I'm disappointed that all of the locals here in Houston are now broadcasting multiple subchannels. I see lots of pixelation and blocking from certain types of programming (Sunday Night Football was pretty awful last night IMHO). The PQ from our affiliates was much better a few years ago as far as compression artifacts go.

Of course I guess I could take your comments as condemnation of just how bad the satellite channels in comparison are since I've yet to upgrade my D* receiver.
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post #648 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 03:10 PM
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Well, folks,
This past weekends I watched my Falcons stinks up the dome. What I did was putting the Mits in split mode and watched both OTA and cable from Comcast. And I can tell a difference although notmuch but the grass from the OTA signal was sharper.

So for those who complained about the grass beng blotchy...this is how youcan tell the diff. And we all know that the Mits passed the deinterlace test
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post #649 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

Really? I'm disappointed that all of the locals here in Houston are now broadcasting multiple subchannels. I see lots of pixelation and blocking from certain types of programming (Sunday Night Football was pretty awful last night IMHO). The PQ from our affiliates was much better a few years ago as far as compression artifacts go.

Of course I guess I could take your comments as condemnation of just how bad the satellite channels in comparison are since I've yet to upgrade my D* receiver.

If you're planning a D* "upgrade" to their new AT9 multi-sat dish with MPEG-4 compressed HD locals, you might be in for a disappointment. My wife even notices the difference. Pixellation I suspect (esp. on CBS/11) is due to their running flea power on that transmitter. Of all the Houston digital stations I can pull in 'OTA', Ch 11 is the weakest of the lot and I can see the tower strobes from my roof at night. (We're about 15~17 mi. NW of the Missouri City antenna farm.)

Also be aware that the new dish is approx 25" x 36", is over 30 lbs and D* contract installers seem only to know how to install the thing into your roof OSB decking, completely missing all the studs. Then when it ultimately wobbles and flexes in the wind you lose your HD locals. Nice. Mine is on the chimney, anchored into the bricks (not the mortar joints) with Hilti anchors, but I had to do it myself cuz D* installers don't carry a hammer drill.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #650 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 05:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Well, folks,
This past weekends I watched my Falcons stinks up the dome. What I did was putting the Mits in split mode and watched both OTA and cable from Comcast. And I can tell a difference although notmuch but the grass from the OTA signal was sharper.

So for those who complained about the grass beng blotchy...this is how youcan tell the diff. And we all know that the Mits passed the deinterlace test

Ordinarily OTA will (or should) always be better provided you have direct line of sight to the transmitter location. Multipath reflections will drive digital OTA reception nuts.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #651 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 08:45 PM
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Can anybody tell me how the plush1080p works on this set?

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post #652 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 09:37 PM
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Can anybody tell me how the plush1080p works on this set?

It's just some goofy marketing term Mitsubishi came up with for the TV's scaler. All digital TV's have scalers because they only have one native resolution (unlike CRT's which are often "multi-scanning" and can display any number of resolutions).
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post #653 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 09:58 PM
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If you're planning a D* "upgrade" to their new AT9 multi-sat dish with MPEG-4 compressed HD locals, you might be in for a disappointment. My wife even notices the difference. Pixellation I suspect (esp. on CBS/11) is due to their running flea power on that transmitter. Of all the Houston digital stations I can pull in 'OTA', Ch 11 is the weakest of the lot and I can see the tower strobes from my roof at night. (We're about 15~17 mi. NW of the Missouri City antenna farm.)

I have a bigass rat-shack antenna in the attic, signal strength has never been an issue for me. The problem is multi-casting. Ch 11 isn't as good now as it was when they dedicated full bandwidth to the HD stream. But Ch 2 is by far the worst offender; combine a 1080i feed with 3 sub-channels and what you get is a pixelated mess. For primetime dramas, the highest quality is coming from FOX and the CW. ABC runs a distant 3rd but they tend to have audio problems more than anybody else.

After hearing all about "hd-lite" on both D* and E* I have no delusions that satellite HD channels are going to be as good as OTA, and probably won't be viewing the MPEG-4 locals at all since I have multiple OTA tuners. But the HD versions of the "cable" channels have got to be a lot better than the crummy SD versions I'm watching now.

Quote:


Also be aware that the new dish is approx 25" x 36", is over 30 lbs and D* contract installers seem only to know how to install the thing into your roof OSB decking, completely missing all the studs. Then when it ultimately wobbles and flexes in the wind you lose your HD locals. Nice. Mine is on the chimney, anchored into the bricks (not the mortar joints) with Hilti anchors, but I had to do it myself cuz D* installers don't carry a hammer drill.

Yeah I've installed my own systems in the past and would definitely prefer to do so this time as well.

First I've got to get D* to give me a better deal on the H20 than the ridiculous $300 price on their website. I talked to Customer Retention a few weeks ago and was told the H20 wasn't shipping direct from D* to our area yet, but since you have yours I guess that's changed now?
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post #654 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sewround View Post

Im trying to set up Netcommand to learn and control the various devices.

The DVR learning window (seen on page 42 figure 9 of the Owners Guide has a command listed called "Separator". I cannot figure out what button that is on the remote.

Anyone have any clues on this?

thanks for the help

The separator character would only be used when manually typing in an HD channel (like 51-1....in which case the separator is the dash/hyphen/-)
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post #655 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

The separator character would only be used when manually typing in an HD channel (like 51-1....in which case the separator is the dash/hyphen/-)

thank you. Thats makes sense now.

thanks again!
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post #656 of 2650 Old 10-16-2006, 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

I avoid NetCommand and use a programmable remote like the Universal MX350. I assume that you are learning the function. If so, play with the timing of the button presses. With many of the harder to get code streams altering how long you press the key on the original remote can affect how well it is learned.

OK. I may need to go that route too. I kinda of like the Mitsubishi remote since its simple. Ill try again those functions that didnt stick.

thanks again
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post #657 of 2650 Old 10-17-2006, 03:44 AM
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Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

I have a bigass rat-shack antenna in the attic, signal strength has never been an issue for me. The problem is multi-casting. Ch 11 isn't as good now as it was when they dedicated full bandwidth to the HD stream. But Ch 2 is by far the worst offender; combine a 1080i feed with 3 sub-channels and what you get is a pixelated mess. For primetime dramas, the highest quality is coming from FOX and the CW. ABC runs a distant 3rd but they tend to have audio problems more than anybody else.

After hearing all about "hd-lite" on both D* and E* I have no delusions that satellite HD channels are going to be as good as OTA, and probably won't be viewing the MPEG-4 locals at all since I have multiple OTA tuners. But the HD versions of the "cable" channels have got to be a lot better than the crummy SD versions I'm watching now.

Yeah I've installed my own systems in the past and would definitely prefer to do so this time as well.

First I've got to get D* to give me a better deal on the H20 than the ridiculous $300 price on their website. I talked to Customer Retention a few weeks ago and was told the H20 wasn't shipping direct from D* to our area yet, but since you have yours I guess that's changed now?

Don't forget the proper grounding of the mast and signal lines on both dish and antenna sytems. Each needs to be grounded to the ground rod for the electrical system. I see this is missed in the majority of the installations that we go out to service.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #658 of 2650 Old 10-17-2006, 04:04 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a bigass rat-shack antenna in the attic, signal strength has never been an issue for me.

I tried an attic antenna and had problems w/pixellation (mostly due to signal strength issues). Once I put a RS yagi on the chimney my OTA problems (save for CH 11) have been solved. Agreed, FOX OTA is by far the best.

Quote:


First I've got to get D* to give me a better deal on the H20 than the ridiculous $300 price on their website. I talked to Customer Retention a few weeks ago and was told the H20 wasn't shipping direct from D* to our area yet, but since you have yours I guess that's changed now?

I must have one of the first AT9s in the area. D* put it up (well, attempted to put it up) approx 2 months ago. They botched the job (OSB board) and had to drop off a 2nd AT9 which I mounted, then they came back to align. They had to leave the original base plate else patch the roof. Got mine through 'retention' H20 + the AT9 + install for $19.95 with a 2-yr contract renewal. Then the H20 runs scalding hot (see H20 fan mod thread elsewhere).

Alas, we're beginning to digress..

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #659 of 2650 Old 10-17-2006, 04:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

Don't forget the proper grounding of the mast and signal lines on both dish and antenna sytems. Each needs to be grounded to the ground rod for the electrical system. I see this is missed in the majority of the installations that we go out to service.

Grounding is a safety issue and yes, is mandatory per article (whatever) of the Nat'l Electrical Code. However, grounding has nothing to do w/reception. Antenna gain, Impedance matching between the antenna & coaxial cable, length & condition of the cable, proper attachment of connectors, any inline splitters, diplexers, multiswitches, accuracy of azimuth, any multipath issues, ad. nauseum, affect the signal. UHF is usually considered "line of sight" for determining propagation characteristics.

VHF/UHF "combo" antennas are a compromise and not "optimal" for either band of frequencies. Mounting the antenna inside one's attic presents a multiplicity of other problems, none the least of which is the azimuth. Can you really "aim it" straight at the station? Zinc-impregnated shingles (common in humid climates to thwart mold) just as well be made of lead as far as getting a signal through them is concerned. Newer energy-efficient homes with foil-backed solar barriers don't allow much signal to get through either. Combine the two and save for any bonding straps between them, you've nearly got a Faraday Shield inside your attic.

The antenna really & truly needs to go outside. Homeowner's Assn rules be damned, there is a Federeal law (FCC regulation) on the books which allows it.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #660 of 2650 Old 10-17-2006, 04:49 AM
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wow...so refreshing after I put largdiag on the ignore list!
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