2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Quickstart mode (recommended by Mfr as well as by a servicer I trust) should give you longer overall service life out of your lamp than setting it on low power mode.

The power difference is 6 watts in low power mode vs. 30 watts in quickstart. At an average 15¢ per kwh, quickstart mode equates to approx $3.25 worth of elect. per month vs. 65¢ worth in LP mode. Considering LP mode is said to be harder on the lamp it would seem that you might be stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.

Sorry if I wasn't clear - I was referring to using Natural v Bright v Brilliant, not Quickstart v Low.

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post #62 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Quickstart mode (recommended by Mfr as well as by a servicer I trust) should give you longer overall service life out of your lamp than setting it on low power mode.

The power difference is 6 watts in low power mode vs. 30 watts in quickstart. At an average 15¢ per kwh, quickstart mode equates to approx $3.25 worth of elect. per month vs. 65¢ worth in LP mode. Considering LP mode is said to be harder on the lamp it would seem that you might be stepping over dollars to pick up dimes.


A couple things:

1. Where are you getting the manufacture reccomdations regarding bulb life, ect. It doesn't seem to say any of this in the manual I got with the TV.

2. In your opinion, how long should you be away from the tv before it should be turned off. It sounds like if you'll be back in 30 minutes you should leave it on....what about 60 minutes? What is the concensus?

Thank you!

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post #63 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheeze View Post

A couple things:

1. Where are you getting the manufacture reccomdations regarding bulb life, ect. It doesn't seem to say any of this in the manual I got with the TV.

2. In your opinion, how long should you be away from the tv before it should be turned off. It sounds like if you'll be back in 30 minutes you should leave it on....what about 60 minutes? What is the concensus?

Thank you!

Bulb life came from a servicing dealer (Mitsubishi Authorized Svc Ctr)

On and Off-ing any electronic device is harder on the unit than leaving it on. If I'll be back in 30 mins, leave it on.

Somewhere in some documention I've read recently this is mentioned. I'll have to see if I can find the reference again.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #64 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 10:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tennispro View Post

It sounds like others are in the same spot as me, trying to choose between the 732 and 831.

If cost is no object, go for it.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #65 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 10:22 AM
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Well I went by Fry's today and got to see both the 732 and 831, although not side-by-side where I could do a really thorough comparison (plus it was 65831 vs 57732). Bottom line for me was that I couldn't see enough difference to justify the price jump; maybe with more time and the ability to do a side-by-side comparison I would have seen more of a difference. But the 732 looked great despite being at the edge of the TV area where it was under regular in-store lighting, as opposed to the darkened area that the 831 was in. Right next to the 57732 was the Samsung 1080p Pedestal set and there was no comparison, the 57732 was better especially in the blacks. The 732 is most definitely improved over the 731 in this aspect.

So, my 57732 will be delivered on Monday, I can't wait. BTW another factor to consider, based on the stores I've visited dealers are much more willing to discount the 732 than they are the 831 at this point, so to me that makes the value proposition of the 732 that much better.
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post #66 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

Well I went by Fry's today and got to see both the 732 and 831, although not side-by-side where I could do a really thorough comparison (plus it was 65831 vs 57732). Bottom line for me was that I couldn't see enough difference to justify the price jump; maybe with more time and the ability to do a side-by-side comparison I would have seen more of a difference. But the 732 looked great despite being at the edge of the TV area where it was under regular in-store lighting, as opposed to the darkened area that the 831 was in. Right next to the 57732 was the Samsung 1080p Pedestal set and there was no comparison, the 57732 was better especially in the blacks. The 732 is most definitely improved over the 731 in this aspect.

So, my 57732 will be delivered on Monday, I can't wait. BTW another factor to consider, based on the stores I've visited dealers are much more willing to discount the 732 than they are the 831 at this point, so to me that makes the value proposition of the 732 that much better.

I was of the same opinion. AFter having the 732 for a bit I noticed the screen looks very much like that described for the 831. It has very low reflective properties (reflection from a lamp in front of screen barely bothers me) and the picture is silky smooth. Do you think the screen is not unique to the 832 and inadvertenly omitted from the Mits descriptions? Would be the first time.
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post #67 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 11:53 AM
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I paid too much for my 732 from local Frys. I was thinking of returning it and buying one from ABT. I bought from a B&M becuase of shipping risk due to size and rtn policy in case I didnt like the TV. Love the TV. No problem there.
With no state sales tax, and a lesser price, the savings would be about $430. Just the sales tax is like $275. Even the 30 day price match route only works if I have a local print ad from B&M and I doubt Ill be able to see one advertised so low.

what are your thoughts?
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post #68 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 11:58 AM
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I got a great deal at Frys in San Jose, CA for the 65732.

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post #69 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by VIANDS View Post

First post yet long time lurker in the AVS forums. FYI I believe that Costco is now carrying the full line up of the 732 series. The only reason why I cannot be completely sure is that no model number is displayed. The WD-xx732 series tv is at the bottom of the Costco page.Originally they were only carrying the 65 inch. Could someone please give me a sanity check here. I was about to purchase with credit card in hand when I noticed the new addition to their page.

The price on the Costco website is no great shakes. Frys, Ken Cranes, Tweeter will all beat that price without hardly even asking them.
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post #70 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 12:02 PM
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I purchased at Fry's as well. I did get them to come down on price and even though I still probably paid more than what I would have online due to sales tax, buying locally means I have the Fry's return policy plus I was able to take advantage of Mitsubishi no-interest financing.
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post #71 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 12:08 PM
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The 57732 and 5 yr warranty fit my budget nicely. The 831 & 5 yr warranty is a bit tiny tad more than what I want to pay.

My real problem is deciding whether the 831 will be better in a room with lots of windows near by. And unfortunately where I'll be seeing the 831 this Friday is a dark room
So how can I tell if the 831 will be better than the 732 with regards to sunlight?

Bring a flashlight and shine on it?
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post #72 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 12:52 PM
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My room situation is oposite of RudyMeister. The room that mine is going in has one window on the side and I have a shade that can totally block out the sun to make the room very dark and I have sound material on the walls which makes it even darker. I am wondering if the 732 would look almost as good as the 831 because of my room. I am about to see my first 831 at local fry's in next two days. The 732 displayed was running off the Dish network and split many times. Because of the poor signal I was seeing what many may consider SSE. On the 65732 next to it, it was using the Mits 1080P loop and was beautiful with hardly any SSE (what I understand SSE to be).
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post #73 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:01 PM
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Tennispro...please come back and give us your impression of the 831 in bright light conditions...or any conditions for that matter.
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post #74 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tennispro View Post

My room situation is oposite of RudyMeister. The room that mine is going in has one window on the side and I have a shade that can totally block out the sun to make the room very dark and I have sound material on the walls which makes it even darker. I am wondering if the 732 would look almost as good as the 831 because of my room. I am about to see my first 831 at local fry's in next two days. The 732 displayed was running off the Dish network and split many times. Because of the poor signal I was seeing what many may consider SSE. On the 65732 next to it, it was using the Mits 1080P loop and was beautiful with hardly any SSE (what I understand SSE to be).
Tennispro

I have a very bad viewing situtation at my house. TV faces two large 6ft tall windows with shutters. My old Sony screen was like a mirror and it was hard to watch during the day. A reading lamp reflected off the screen was also very distracting.

Now with the 732 in the exact same spot as the Sony, the lack of reflection and PQ is amazing. Now problems viewing during the day and the reading light that used to bother me, I forget is even turned on now!

Im wondering if the 732 has the magic screen the 832 has?
.
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post #75 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:23 PM
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How do you use the 732 to create 5.1 surround sound? If watching over the air HD programming doesnt that come with surround somtimes? Does the TV do this decoding and output to an external amplifer? On the back of the TV it looks like jusst stereo outputs?

Any insight?
thanks!
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post #76 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

How do you use the 732 to create 5.1 surround sound? If watching over the air HD programming doesnt that come with surround somtimes? Does the TV do this decoding and output to an external amplifer? On the back of the TV it looks like jusst stereo outputs?

Any insight?
thanks!

Does it have optical or coaxial in the back?
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post #77 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

How do you use the 732 to create 5.1 surround sound? If watching over the air HD programming doesnt that come with surround somtimes? Does the TV do this decoding and output to an external amplifer? On the back of the TV it looks like jusst stereo outputs?

Any insight?
thanks!

Only using your TV for sound, the best you'll be able to get is simulated surround.

If you use the digital coax output from the rear of the tv to your Dolby Digital capable receiver...then things get a bit tricky:
  • If you're using the internal tuner of the TV (QAM or OTA), and you're viewing a program with Dolby Digital content, then your Mitsubishi will send Dolby Digital out the Digital Coax to your receiver
  • If you're using an HDMI connection to your TV, and the component feeding the HDMI input is sending Dolby Digital audio, then your TV will downmix the inputted audio to 2-channel before sending it out to the receiver. (Yes, you read that right, Dolby Digital in over HDMI will not be passed back out of the Mitsu. You'll still need to route a digital audio connection from the component to your receiver)
  • Cable Card...I don't have one so I'm not sure what will happen if Dolby Digital is received via Cable Card.
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post #78 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Does it have optical or coaxial in the back?

All Mitsu DLPs for the last few years have only had Digital Coax Audio out.
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post #79 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 06:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

  • If you're using the internal tuner of the TV (QAM or OTA), and you're viewing a program with Dolby Digital content, then your Mitsubishi will send Dolby Digital out the Digital Coax to your receiver
  • If you're using an HDMI connection to your TV, and the component feeding the HDMI input is sending Dolby Digital audio, then your TV will downmix the inputted audio to 2-channel before sending it out to the receiver. (Yes, you read that right, Dolby Digital in over HDMI will not be passed back out of the Mitsu. You'll still need to route a digital audio connection from the component to your receiver)
  • Cable Card...I don't have one so I'm not sure what will happen if Dolby Digital is received via Cable Card.

Thanks Trendsetter for the eye-opening, informative post.

This means that I'll probably (at some point) want to replace my SS amplifier with one that can accommodate 5.1 inputs from multiple (switchable/selectable) sources. The audio output from the D* receiver is HDMI or optical or 2-channel stereo. The output from the Oppo DVD player is optical or multi-channel (surround) stereo. Hmmm... another unplanned expense.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #80 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Thanks Trendsetter for the eye-opening, informative post.

This means that I'll probably (at some point) want to replace my SS amplifier with one that can accommodate 5.1 inputs from multiple (switchable/selectable) sources. The audio output from the D* receiver is HDMI or optical or 2-channel stereo. The output from the Oppo DVD player is optical or multi-channel (surround) stereo. Hmmm... another unplanned expense.

Wow, how old is your receiver?! Is it a kick or crank-start? My run-of-the-mill Yamaha is almost 7 now and it has both D-Coax and TOS-Link.
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post #81 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 11:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Does it have optical or coaxial in the back?

Its a 732 and has:
2 HDMI inputs
Digital Audio Output (Dolby® Digital / PCM) 1 (coaxial)
Stereo Audio Output 1 (fixed)
Record A/V Output 1
doesnt look like it has 5.1 descrete outputs.


There are these audio sources:
a) DVD Player w/HDMI, discrete 5.1 audio out too
b) DVR for cable w/HDMI (motorola), think it also has discrete 5.1 outs
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post #82 of 2650 Old 09-14-2006, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Only using your TV for sound, the best you'll be able to get is simulated surround.

If you use the digital coax output from the rear of the tv to your Dolby Digital capable receiver...then things get a bit tricky:
  • If you're using the internal tuner of the TV (QAM or OTA), and you're viewing a program with Dolby Digital content, then your Mitsubishi will send Dolby Digital out the Digital Coax to your receiver
  • If you're using an HDMI connection to your TV, and the component feeding the HDMI input is sending Dolby Digital audio, then your TV will downmix the inputted audio to 2-channel before sending it out to the receiver. (Yes, you read that right, Dolby Digital in over HDMI will not be passed back out of the Mitsu. You'll still need to route a digital audio connection from the component to your receiver)
  • Cable Card...I don't have one so I'm not sure what will happen if Dolby Digital is received via Cable Card.

Ok. sounds like I need to carefully look at a receiver that does this decoding and has the correct input type as the TV has. Any experience on choosing a reciever for use with the 732 or where to start looking? thanks again.
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post #83 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 02:57 AM
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Can the new Mits resolve every line of a 1080i test pattern.

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post #84 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 04:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jsil View Post

Can the new Mits resolve every line of a 1080i test pattern.

If you mean can it display level 10 resolution on the HDNet test pattern that's broadcast early some mornings, yes it can and legibly enough that you can read the level-10 text.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #85 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 04:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Wow, how old is your receiver?! Is it a kick or crank-start? My run-of-the-mill Yamaha is almost 7 now and it has both D-Coax and TOS-Link.

It's a cheapie Pioneer tuner/amp combo with only one optical input + several 2-channel stereo inputs for various sources. It's at least 10 years old but has served us well. We're not audiophiles in any sense, so plain old garden variety SS is fine for us. Good video on the other hand, we can appreciate.

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #86 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 05:40 AM
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the dark detailer on the 65732 is the same as a dynamic Iris, correct?
I think i'm switching from the samsung HLS-6187 to the 65732.

The main reason is that i'm building a HTPC and the problems with the samsung and overscan with it not be able to stay off.

Looks like these new mits are going to be very popular with the HTPC crowd.
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post #87 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 06:26 AM
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Each input is supposed to save individual settings, right? When I go to the DVD Input, no matter how many times I change it, Video defaults to Brillant Mode and the Contrast is cranked all the way up!

Am I missing something or am doing something wrong when I watch a DVD?

Thanks!

BTW, the upconversion on this TV is amazing. I have an older JVC interlaced DVD player. I finally hooked up the Component cables last night. All I can say is WOW! We are talking near high def with an interlaced DVD player. I was watching Star Wars III.

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post #88 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 07:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheeze View Post

Each input is supposed to save individual settings, right? When I go to the DVD Input, no matter how many times I change it, Video defaults to Brillant Mode and the Contrast is cranked all the way up!

How are you powering off, low power mode or quickstart mode? I ask because I had a similar problem when I tested using low-power mode

The PAY TV industry does not hold the patent on poor customer relations, but Comcast in particular has succeeded in making an art form of it.

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post #89 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheeze View Post

Each input is supposed to save individual settings, right? When I go to the DVD Input, no matter how many times I change it, Video defaults to Brillant Mode and the Contrast is cranked all the way up!

Am I missing something or am doing something wrong when I watch a DVD?

Thanks!

BTW, the upconversion on this TV is amazing. I have an older JVC interlaced DVD player. I finally hooked up the Component cables last night. All I can say is WOW! We are talking near high def with an interlaced DVD player. I was watching Star Wars III.

In addition to the Capn's question...by any chance have you been unplugging inputs that you've saved?

If you unplug an input from the set, the set erases all information for that input and you have to start all over (even if the input device hasn't changed).

I believe this to be a fairly annoying little quirk and that the TV should ask you if the device has changed when it senses an input has been unplugged/replugged. Much like how the TV asks you if the bulb's been changed.
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post #90 of 2650 Old 09-15-2006, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

Ok. sounds like I need to carefully look at a receiver that does this decoding and has the correct input type as the TV has. Any experience on choosing a reciever for use with the 732 or where to start looking? thanks again.

Well, #1, keep in mind that, generally speaking, you don't run any video through your Receiver any more. In the non HD days, people got used to running video into their receiver and using it to do the video switching.

You'll need a receiver with at least a digital input per component, but make sure the types match. If you have (3) TOS and (1) D-Coax -IN-, but you have (2) D-Coax devices, then you'll have to buy extra equipment to switch formats, etc.

You'll also need to make sure that the receiver has discreet remote IR codes for switching the inputs (for setting up NetCommand).

Personally, I've always been a fan of the Yamaha receivers. Love having the DSP and the "Disco" mode for music.
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