Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 774 Old 04-04-2008, 07:02 PM
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Hello everyone in this thread... Just want to introduce myself as a recent new owner. I also have a Samsung HL-S5679 LED light source DLP set and the new Mits looks GREAT compared to the Sammy right out of the box! And I have had a year to work the bugs out of the Sammy; Side by Side the Mits is much better! Well, gotta go watch TV.... till later!
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post #722 of 774 Old 04-05-2008, 08:35 AM
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do you see pixelation on blue ray or is it just your satilite channels? I suspect what you are seeing is the result of your satalite provider compressing the hdtv channels and also not providing enough bandwidth to keep the image looking smooth during moments where there is a lot of motion on screen. as far as your colors being off, this is a common problem with many tvs but especially Mitsubishi. you really need to calibrate these sets to get them to look good. to me, it sounds like your grey scale is way to warm causing the whites to look yellow. this can only be corrected in the service menus and if you don't have a good understanding of service menu calibration and are not willing to assume some degree of risk to damaging your set you should absolutely get it calibrated by a isf technician. this will lead to a tremendous increase in your picture quality.t

here web site has a list of isf technicians and there contact info if you are interested.
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post #723 of 774 Old 07-13-2008, 10:14 AM
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Hello!

My 57732 is about 18 months old. I'm noticed my image become more washed out. Not dark, just washed out. I don't think I see the blooming issue, if I look at white text, etc.

Could this just be dust, or the lamp?

Steve
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post #724 of 774 Old 07-13-2008, 03:42 PM
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I've had my wd-57731 since 9/06 and it now has 5500 hours on the original lamp. I've been happy with the unit mostly except it pushes green in dark scenes where there is little light reflecting off of hair or surfaces. Is there a way I can reduce the green by changing something in the service menu?
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post #725 of 774 Old 07-15-2008, 01:56 PM
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What you have is likely a shift in gray scale. A "green (or red) push" is usually a reference to a color decoding problem, as opposed to gray scale. You can correct gray scale in the service menu with the drive and bias controls. If the dark areas are green when you remove all color from the image, you can adjust this by reducing the green bias. I would suggest not bothering until you get a new lamp, as this will change the gray scale significantly. 5500 hours is a good lamp life. Replace it and keep it for a backup before it fails.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #726 of 774 Old 07-15-2008, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

If the dark areas are green

Actually, it's in dark scenes with 'white' light or light reflections off of people's hair or something similar with white that are green....
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post #727 of 774 Old 07-15-2008, 03:25 PM
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I am not sure how to translate that. Put a gray scale pattern up and see if any bars are green. If not it is something else and you will likely not be able to adjust it in the service menu.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #728 of 774 Old 08-21-2008, 01:38 PM
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Hello all. I just got finished reading through this whole forum and found some really good stuff, although not entirely what I was looking for. I have the 73831 that has been professionally calibrated. I watch alot of BD movies and play a good deal of video games. I am a stickler for perfection!! After many back and forth setting changes I have my PS3 set to RGB limited. It used to be on Y Pb/b Pr/Cr and the biggest problem I was having was during a dark scene when there was an image in the foreground, the darkness in the background would get washed out and show hints of white smudges (I'm pretty sure it is not "blooming" as I have looked at all the examples in this forum and have no problems with white halos around white text) Also when the picture would change from a bright scene to a dark one the screen would seem to fade slowly to that dark scene following. I just want to know if this is a common problem. It has been almost entirely fixed since I changed the settings back to RGB, there are scenes when the black behind and current image don't look as dark as they should. Will RGB FULL look better on my TV then Limited? Also, these are the settings that my calibrator determined (See below). I have looked at the tweaks and settings for the xx831 and they are a bit different. Would anyone recommend changing anything I have. I noticed also on the tweaks thread that they did not list Sharpness nor did they list a couple of colors such as blue.

Picture Mode Natural
Contrast 26
Brightness 24
Color 31
Tint 31
Sharpness 7
Color Temperature Low
PerfectColor:
Magenta 30
Red 31
Yellow 31
Green 39
Cyan 35
Blue 36
PerfecTint:
Magenta 54
Red 46
Yellow 22
Green 53
Cyan 44
Blue 21
Video Noise: OFF
DeepField Imager: OFF
SharpEdge: OFF
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post #729 of 774 Old 08-29-2008, 09:16 PM
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Does anybody know what is the best way or product to use to clean the screen of a Mitsu. I have a lot of smudges on the screen of my 57732 that somebody decided to use a damp cloth to wipe them off .Thanks
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post #730 of 774 Old 08-30-2008, 07:04 PM
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use a screen cleaning gel or lcd screen cleaner. what i have came in a little squirt bottle. don't use glass cleaner or any alcohol based cleaners.
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post #731 of 774 Old 08-31-2008, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skaterdad View Post

Does anybody know what is the best way or product to use to clean the screen of a Mitsu. I have a lot of smudges on the screen of my 57732 that somebody decided to use a damp cloth to wipe them off .Thanks

I was at a Electronic Repair store and they actually had a Mitusbishi screen cleaner, came with a spray bottle of cleaner and a micro cloth for cleaning. Most electronic stores should have some after market cleaner to use on our expensive HDTV screens. Just remember to spray the cloth to apply and not spray directly onto the screen.
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post #732 of 774 Old 09-01-2008, 05:52 AM
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That sounds great. I will go look in the stores today.
Thanks cid67 and Majeskty.
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post #733 of 774 Old 09-27-2008, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought a 65831 in October 2006. I realized it had the "halo effect" (blooming) problem in May 2007. Magnolia replaced the light engine in June 2007.

The second light engine failed quickly. I reported the problem to Magnolia in early September 2007, and Magnolia replaced it in early October 2007.

The third light engine also failed quickly. I reported the problem in early January 2008, and it was replaced in late January.

The fourth light engine lasted until a few weeks ago, when I could no longer deny it was failing. Since this is the fourth failure, and I have Magnolia's extended warranty, they are taking the set back and giving me a store credit. I used the store credit today to order a new 60" Pioneer Elite Pro-151FD, which will be delivered next Saturday.

Given my previous experience with the infamous SXRD "green blob," I've had it with TVs that use light engines.

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post #734 of 774 Old 10-16-2008, 12:59 PM
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My Dec 2007 65732 has had the thermal sensor problem.I'm on the third bulb.And now the blooming is a MAJOR problem.Service due on that soon.I'll update that service call later.
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post #735 of 774 Old 11-03-2008, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by aVOLanche View Post

My Dec 2007 65732 has had the thermal sensor problem.I'm on the third bulb.And now the blooming is a MAJOR problem.Service due on that soon.I'll update that service call later.


Did you ever fix the thermal problem or did they just reduce the fan speed (noise)? If you are burning up lamps as you claim, you should go read the fixes on the 65734 forum, starting about page 55. The techs aren't fixing the problem, they are just fixing the noise.

I see several lists of problems with numerious service calls. Personally, I try to keep the aftermarket techs away from my equipment. Their skill level is about 10% of that of the factory guys.
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post #736 of 774 Old 11-03-2008, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brownru View Post

I have been reading through the posts and cannot find how to set the keystone on my 73733. I notice bowing on the bottom part of my screen, especially when a picture is not in widescreen and the side bars are on. I went into the service menu, but did not see how to set this. Can anyone help? Thank you in advance for your help!

If you have the problem you describe, either the screen or the internal mirror is bent/bowed. Fix that first. The DLP should be perfect if properly installed.
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post #737 of 774 Old 11-03-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

This can be fixed by adding a bar horizontally behind the mirror at the top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

it is in their service manual. It doesnt state it is for fixing geometry issues, but I tested it one day and lo-and-behold...smiley face gone.

I don't know exactly whay you are describing, but it would not surprise me that stiffening up the chassis properly could help some of these guys.

Someone once reported that the delivery boys rolled the unit end-over-end up the stairs. I imagine many were dropped or shipped on their back and have displaces mirrors.
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post #738 of 774 Old 11-03-2008, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by artifacthater View Post

Did you ever fix the thermal problem or did they just reduce the fan speed (noise)? If you are burning up lamps as you claim, you should go read the fixes on the 65734 forum, starting about page 55. The techs aren't fixing the problem, they are just fixing the noise.

I see several lists of problems with numerious service calls. Personally, I try to keep the aftermarket techs away from my equipment. Their skill level is about 10% of that of the factory guys.

Thermal sensor was hard-wired and that fixed it.I'm on an extended warrantee and can't use the factory guys(GE sends who they want).I'm more concerned about the blooming than the bulbs as they are pretty cheap(and are free for 3 more years under warantee).I'll read the posts you suggested.Thanks!
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post #739 of 774 Old 11-08-2008, 02:08 PM
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Can anyone tell me what the factory service menu settings (video and audio) are for the 65831? In need, thanks.
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post #740 of 774 Old 11-16-2008, 05:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdamocles View Post

I've had my wd-57731 since 9/06 and it now has 5500 hours on the original lamp. I've been happy with the unit mostly except it pushes green in dark scenes where there is little light reflecting off of hair or surfaces. Is there a way I can reduce the green by changing something in the service menu?


did yours just start doing this out of the blue? I have a 57733 and noticed the same in mine, I am not to sure how to check the bulb hours but have had my set since @ 9/07 and its on probably a good 8 - 10 hours a day avg. I am wondering if i should get a new bulb and see what happens...
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post #741 of 774 Old 11-28-2008, 06:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DUlrich1227 View Post

did yours just start doing this out of the blue? I have a 57733 and noticed the same in mine, I am not to sure how to check the bulb hours but have had my set since @ 9/07 and its on probably a good 8 - 10 hours a day avg. I am wondering if i should get a new bulb and see what happens...

On your remote, select MENU, then press 2 4 7 0. The number in the lower left corner is the number of hours on the lamp. Press exit to escape. My WD-Y65 (cc clone of the wd-65732) has 4089 hours on it. Purchased 12/24/06. So, if the set were on 24 hours a day, 4089 hours is about 170 1/3 days. Not a bad idea to keep a spare around....My set is working fine so far. No issues other than fan noise.
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post #742 of 774 Old 11-30-2008, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by myoda View Post

On your remote, select MENU, then press 2 4 7 0. The number in the lower left corner is the number of hours on the lamp. Press exit to escape. My WD-Y65 (cc clone of the wd-65732) has 4089 hours on it. Purchased 12/24/06. So, if the set were on 24 hours a day, 4089 hours is about 170 1/3 days. Not a bad idea to keep a spare around....My set is working fine so far. No issues other than fan noise.

The lamp on my WD-Y657 (65" cc clone that replaced the WD-Y65) died at 1972 hours (warranty replacement). The WD-Y65 has a 150 watt lamp. My WD-Y657 has a 150-180 watt lamp. My first lamp was running at 180 watts "bright" the whole time. I set the replacement lamp to 150 watts "standard" via the global settings menu when it was installed. Hopefully I'll get more life out of it, since it now has 1909 hours on it.

I highly suggest anyone who has a "lamp mode" setting under "global settings", to set it to "standard" and not "bright". I believe the default setting is bright.
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post #743 of 774 Old 12-07-2008, 08:01 PM
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I am heading down the same path you described. I have had my light engine replaced twice so far on my WD-65831, the latest one was done in September. Much to my chagrin I am seeing the beginning of the blooming BS on the new already.
Unfortunately I did not purchase my TV locally so I have no one to take it back to, I have had to deal with the extended warranty folks which has been a fiasco. The last light engine that had to be replaced I actually had to pay upfront to get it replaced (a little over $1100), and almost two months later I finally got my money back from the extended warranty people for the repair, why I had to pay to get this done and then get reimbursed is beyond me, complete BS and a waste of my time calling these people along with the repair folks over and over
Needless to say if this light engine goes, I am throwing this TV in the garbage and it will be a very long long time before I buy mitsubishi again.

It is too bad because when the TV is working properly the image is fantastic and at 65" the TV is just stunning, but it does not do me any good if it only looks good for 5 or 6 months at a time. Mitsubishi has to know of these problems and to my knowledge they have not done anything about it, I spent almost $3K on this freaking TV...My last Mitsu lasted me 10 years, I guess they don't make them like they used to



Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

I bought a 65831 in October 2006. I realized it had the "halo effect" (blooming) problem in May 2007. Magnolia replaced the light engine in June 2007.

The second light engine failed quickly. I reported the problem to Magnolia in early September 2007, and Magnolia replaced it in early October 2007.

The third light engine also failed quickly. I reported the problem in early January 2008, and it was replaced in late January.

The fourth light engine lasted until a few weeks ago, when I could no longer deny it was failing. Since this is the fourth failure, and I have Magnolia's extended warranty, they are taking the set back and giving me a store credit. I used the store credit today to order a new 60" Pioneer Elite Pro-151FD, which will be delivered next Saturday.

Given my previous experience with the infamous SXRD "green blob," I've had it with TVs that use light engines.

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post #744 of 774 Old 12-08-2008, 05:03 AM
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It is curious that anyone should have to pay anything to have a light engine replaced. Hasn't Mitsubishi extended the warranty on these things? Did you contact Mitsubishi?

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #745 of 774 Old 12-08-2008, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Majeskty View Post



WD-57831 has been down for 1-month as of today. Yesterday the repair shop called and said Mits is covering the parts (baffle-controls electrical current to the lamp?? and a new lamp) but not covering labor.

Had a extended warranty called them and they feel the TV problem was pre-existing and won't cover the labor but I could submitt it for consideration. If I had used the extended warranty in the first place they would be picking up the entire repair but give me the go around on just the labor. Here I was being told to call Mits about the early lamp failure, Mits steps up to help then I get the shaft from the extended warranty company on just a share of the expense.

So talked to the Mits, they want documentation which the repair shop has provided them and another 2-3 days. The repair shop is calling their contact to see if they can get something done directly. Hopefully here something later today.

James

Well coming up on the 8 months I have been getting from the lamps (180w) after the ballast replacement and other repairs to the wd-57831 last March. Currently the lamp is looking good but generally it starts to dim about 2 weeks before it fails. Thus far we have more hours on this lamp than any previous (2 others) about 2500 on this lamp. Hopefully we can get into that 4-5,000 hours range instead of a pukie 2300. If this lamp failed similar to the last two I had estimated it about Christmas time, so I still have a couple weeks to go, but like I mentioned I do have about 100 hours more than the other two lasted (2304, 2185).
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post #746 of 774 Old 12-08-2008, 06:18 PM
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No I didn't contact Mitsu, I did the first time the light engine failed but the TV was under warranty then, the second time I dealt directly with the extended warranty folks since the set was out of warranty.
Are you saying that Mitsubishi has extended the warranty on these TVs? I did not know that if that is the case, where can I read more about this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

It is curious that anyone should have to pay anything to have a light engine replaced. Hasn't Mitsubishi extended the warranty on these things? Did you contact Mitsubishi?

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post #747 of 774 Old 12-08-2008, 06:56 PM
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Call Mitsubishi.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #748 of 774 Old 01-30-2009, 12:54 AM
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I have a Mitsu WD73732 purchased from TWEETER in Feb 2008 (R.I.P.). I am on my 3rd bulb sent from Mitsu. This time I replaced the bulb and immediately used the code I have seen on this forum "Menu 2-4-7-0". Screen says: Initialize , Power Restore Off , Production Mode Off , Net Command Software V33+ 008.00 , Digital Signal Strength: N/A.
The Number in lower left corner is 07687?
This was a replacement sent from Mitsu, is this a used bulb? or Is there a diff code for the 73732? I am begining to think I may have the "light engine problem"?
Picture went back to crap after 2 hours with the "new bulb". Works on/off after cool down.
THANKS TWEETER!! $%&@!
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post #749 of 774 Old 01-30-2009, 05:48 AM
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it's been mentioned before the bulb doesnt reset the hours,
the number shown is hours the tv has been used all bulbs totaled up.

also why is it tweeters fault?
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post #750 of 774 Old 01-31-2009, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fiveok9 View Post

I have a Mitsu WD73732 purchased from TWEETER in Feb 2008 (R.I.P.). I am on my 3rd bulb sent from Mitsu. This time I replaced the bulb and immediately used the code I have seen on this forum "Menu 2-4-7-0". Screen says: Initialize , Power Restore Off , Production Mode Off , Net Command Software V33+ 008.00 , Digital Signal Strength: N/A.
The Number in lower left corner is 07687?
This was a replacement sent from Mitsu, is this a used bulb? or Is there a diff code for the 73732? I am begining to think I may have the "light engine problem"?
Picture went back to crap after 2 hours with the "new bulb". Works on/off after cool down.
THANKS TWEETER!! $%&@!

Sounds like your engine is hosing your bulbs... I have not has a single problem with my set. I also got an extended 3 warranty from Costco.

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my setup: XBMC, Windows Media Center, Z-Wave/Insteon automation, Paradigm-Parasound-Onkyo-Velodyne Home Theater, 65" 1080p display ... home theater coming soon!

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