Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 774 Old 10-14-2006, 09:48 AM
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As has been said many times, using settings from another set is not going to give your accurate color. It MIGHT get you closer or it MIGHT NOT. YOu are better off adjusting it until it looks right to you than trying to apply settings from another unit.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #92 of 774 Old 10-14-2006, 10:49 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mcurtis View Post

I went into the service menu and changed my low temp settings to the ones sourcery/john suggested. However everything is yellowish. Could I have done something wrong?

You might have done something wrong. Or your lamp (for example) might be sufficiently different from both mine and JKohn's that his RGB gain values don't give you the right gray scale.

If you use your factory settings, you'll have a very good grayscale, but a color temperature that is too low by about 1000 kelvins. You could try starting with JKohn's RGB gain values, and then attempt to fix the grayscale by eye, but to do it at all well, you need to have a grayscale gradient ramp. To do it right, you need very expensive equipment.

Given how your set differs from mine (assuming you didn't do something wrong,) I'd say you're better off reverting to your original RGB gain values, and then either using Digital Video Essentials, or else hiring a professional ISF calibrator.

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post #93 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 04:31 AM
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Once you are in the service menu by doing "menu+2+4+5+7". what would be the correct procedure to restore changed settings to their original factory settings?
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post #94 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 07:37 AM
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Using Sorcery's settings on my 65831 I have an awesome picture for SD & HD content. But I started watching a football game on ESPN yesterday and if I stared and the grass field I noticed some movement, like a flicker, I think some have called it dancing grass? I also watched an HD show on PBS and there were a lot of grass scenes but no flicker? In fact, I could count the number of blades it was so clear. Anyway, I tried changing the Cox STB back and forth form 720p to 1080i on the football game but it made no difference. Any adjustment for this?

P.S. If you are an Eagles (The Band) Fan. Their farewell tour DVD is a nice treat on this set!!!!
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post #95 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinibo View Post

Once you are in the service menu by doing "menu+2+4+5+7". what would be the correct procedure to restore changed settings to their original factory settings?

Press zero, select restore backup. Besure to only use restore backup and not the copy functions.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #96 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 11:12 AM
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I posted this message also on the general Mits xx73x/xx-831 thread, but this may be a more appropriate thread.

Maybe someone can help with a problem I'm having with my 73732. When the set arrived it wouldn't power on from the front panel buttons or the remote. Pushing the reset button worked and then the remote worked fine. This problem persisted and the only way I could turn on the set was to push the reset button or unplug and then replug the set. Through some detective work, I found that the TV would only power on if it was set in the Low Power Setting. In this low power setting, both the remote and the front panel buttons worked fine. If the TV is set in the Fast Power On mode, then the original problem returns and the only way the set can be powered on is by pushing the reset button. I'm assuming the set is having problems "waking" from the standby mode.

I'm not able to use the TV guide function with the set in the Low Power Mode. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. I just know that if I contact Mitsubishi, they'll keep telling me to press the reset button. I just don't know why none of the front panel buttons will work if the set is in Fast Power On mode. Thanks in advance for any help!
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post #97 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 12:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigtiv View Post

Using Sorcery's settings on my 65831 I have an awesome picture for SD & HD content. But I started watching a football game on ESPN yesterday and if I stared and the grass field I noticed some movement, like a flicker, I think some have called it dancing grass? I also watched an HD show on PBS and there were a lot of grass scenes but no flicker? In fact, I could count the number of blades it was so clear. Anyway, I tried changing the Cox STB back and forth form 720p to 1080i on the football game but it made no difference. Any adjustment for this?

WOW. I hate to admit this, but I had the "Color Setting" set at 38...thought I changed that? Anyway, when I dropped the value to Sourcery's 20, the flicker significantly decreased! Almost non-existent now! With all these variables, I'm slowly becoming a fan of professional calibration...now if I could just find one in New Orleans?
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post #98 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turkle View Post

I posted this message also on the general Mits xx73x/xx-831 thread, but this may be a more appropriate thread.

Maybe someone can help with a problem I'm having with my 73732. When the set arrived it wouldn't power on from the front panel buttons or the remote. Pushing the reset button worked and then the remote worked fine. This problem persisted and the only way I could turn on the set was to push the reset button or unplug and then replug the set. Through some detective work, I found that the TV would only power on if it was set in the Low Power Setting. In this low power setting, both the remote and the front panel buttons worked fine. If the TV is set in the Fast Power On mode, then the original problem returns and the only way the set can be powered on is by pushing the reset button. I'm assuming the set is having problems "waking" from the standby mode.

I'm not able to use the TV guide function with the set in the Low Power Mode. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. I just know that if I contact Mitsubishi, they'll keep telling me to press the reset button. I just don't know why none of the front panel buttons will work if the set is in Fast Power On mode. Thanks in advance for any help!

Sounds like the front panel lock feature. I was under the impression that these sets no longer had that but maybe they do. Check for it in the menus.

You might also try going to the setup menu and initializing the set. This will clear all of you user settings. Press MENU, 2,4,7,0 and select INITIALIZE, then press ENTER. If the problem persists after that, call service.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #99 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 04:23 PM
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Thanks Icaillo. I too thought it might be the front panel lock. Yes this set does have one. I followed the instructions in the users manual to unlock it and I don't know if it had any impact since there was no feedback/confirmation after I punched in the code listed in the manual. I tried to do a remote control reset by following the manual instructions, but I don't think it worked.

As it stands now, the TV is set in the low power mode and everything is working fine. Both the front panel and remote control are working. I will reset the TV to Fast Power On right before I turn the set off tonight and see if it will power up tomorrow. If it won't I'll follow your instructions to initialize the set and then hope for the best. If all else fails, I guess I'll make the dreaded service call. I really don't want to lose this set since the picture on this 73732 is unbelievable. All I have is a rooftop antenna and no cable and the quality of the HD OTA channels is spectacular in the NY metro area. Thanks again.
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post #100 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 06:30 PM
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For those interested in discrete input codes for the 732/831, look here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=736961
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post #101 of 774 Old 10-15-2006, 06:38 PM
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I live in St. Louis, MO (GO CARDS!) 63366 zip and I cannot get TV Guide to download to my 57732 using OTA. Any suggestions? The users manual did not help.

"I AM WE TODD IT....I AM SOFA KING WE TODD IT." -Albert Einstein
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post #102 of 774 Old 10-16-2006, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

I live in St. Louis, MO (GO CARDS!) 63366 zip and I cannot get TV Guide to download to my 57732 using OTA. Any suggestions? The users manual did not help.

I have a 73732 and only an OTA connection. I set the TV guide feature with my zipcode and it downloaded on its own when I checked the next morning. Just make sure you're on "Fast Power On" when you set it. I know it's typically downloaded from your local PBS station. I didn't have to do anything special to get it to download.
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post #103 of 774 Old 10-16-2006, 06:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turkle View Post

I have a 73732 and only an OTA connection. I set the TV guide feature with my zipcode and it downloaded on its own when I checked the next morning. Just make sure you're on "Fast Power On" when you set it. I know it's typically downloaded from your local PBS station. I didn't have to do anything special to get it to download.

I have done all this...did you ever have your TV tuned to your local PBS station. They multi cast PBS in STL (analog ch 9, Digital ch 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4) I only have my local digital channels programed into my set. I wounder if I need to reprogram with the analog channels? However every time I power on my set it is on analog ch 9 (PBS).

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post #104 of 774 Old 10-16-2006, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

I have done all this...did you ever have your TV tuned to your local PBS station. They multi cast PBS in STL (analog ch 9, Digital ch 9.1, 9.2, 9.3, 9.4) I only have my local digital channels programed into my set. I wounder if I need to reprogram with the analog channels? However every time I power on my set it is on analog ch 9 (PBS).

Yes, you need to program in the analog channels also. Probably the TV listings are coming from the analog PBS station. Go back into setup to do that.
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post #105 of 774 Old 10-17-2006, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

Sounds like the front panel lock feature. I was under the impression that these sets no longer had that but maybe they do. Check for it in the menus.

You might also try going to the setup menu and initializing the set. This will clear all of you user settings. Press MENU, 2,4,7,0 and select INITIALIZE, then press ENTER. If the problem persists after that, call service.

lcaillo- THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! It looks like re-initializing the set did the trick. It powers up when set in the Fast Power On mode and the TV Guide has been downloading. Just a quick question- When I punched in the code, there were 2 settings that came up: Power Restore and Production Mode. They were both in the OFF position. After re-initializing, I checked again and they were both still in the OFF position. Do you know what these 2 features are and should they remain in the OFF position? (I'm not resetting anything at this point).

Once again, it's a real pleasure having you and your expertise on these forums (fora?). turkle
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post #106 of 774 Old 10-17-2006, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigtiv View Post

WOW. I hate to admit this, but I had the "Color Setting" set at 38...thought I changed that? Anyway, when I dropped the value to Sourcery's 20, the flicker significantly decreased! Almost non-existent now! With all these variables, I'm slowly becoming a fan of professional calibration...now if I could just find one in New Orleans?

i went with 25 on my colors. at 20, if you go into perfectcolor and reduce the 6 colors to zero, you'll find that the magenta does not go to black while the other colors do. at 25 or 26, you should find that all of the colors go to black when set to zero.

getting the colors right makes a huge difference when watching baseball or football, even when there is some compression going on. i'm working on the settings for my new set and they are a work in progress but i'll try to post them here later today.
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post #107 of 774 Old 10-17-2006, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turkle View Post

lcaillo- THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! It looks like re-initializing the set did the trick. It powers up when set in the Fast Power On mode and the TV Guide has been downloading. Just a quick question- When I punched in the code, there were 2 settings that came up: Power Restore and Production Mode. They were both in the OFF position. After re-initializing, I checked again and they were both still in the OFF position. Do you know what these 2 features are and should they remain in the OFF position? (I'm not resetting anything at this point).

Once again, it's a real pleasure having you and your expertise on these forums (fora?). turkle

Power restore causes the power to come on when the a.c. power is applied, allowing remote switching. Note that when doing so the set has to completely reboot, as it would in low power mode.

Production mode overides the auto input recognition and activates all inputs for easier testing.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #108 of 774 Old 10-18-2006, 02:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smeeg View Post

i went with 25 on my colors. at 20, if you go into perfectcolor and reduce the 6 colors to zero, you'll find that the magenta does not go to black while the other colors do. at 25 or 26, you should find that all of the colors go to black when set to zero.

getting the colors right makes a huge difference when watching baseball or football, even when there is some compression going on. i'm working on the settings for my new set and they are a work in progress but i'll try to post them here later today.

Smeeg,

Don't recall seeing it it any of the threads, but are you calibrating your new TV with the New reflective screen or did you go back to the non-reflective screen?

Steve
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post #109 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 08:06 AM
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I got my 65831 delivered yesterday (XBR1 replacement)

I've applied the tweaks at the beginning of this thread (yes I know they might not work for me - but being a noob in terms of Picture calibration etc. - I figured I'd better start there and adjust - rather than start from scratch and possibly get nowhere.)

So here's my problem - with Picture set to "Natural" - and other setting as mentioned - I can't find the right Color Temp that I like. LOW temp seems a little too redish to me and HIGH temp seems little too blue. (Too bad that there isn't a 3rd setting - which was kinda of nice on the XBR1)

[Edit] - I did NOT change anything in the SM - though did venture in there to look.

Any suggestions on what I should adjust to get rid or the extra red on LOW (or extra blue on the High Temp)

Thanks
RA
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post #110 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rarora05 View Post

I got my 65831 delivered yesterday (XBR1 replacement)

I've applied the tweaks at the beginning of this thread (yes I know they might not work for me - but being a noob in terms of Picture calibration etc. - I figured I'd better start there and adjust - rather than start from scratch and possibly get nowhere.)

So here's my problem - with Picture set to "Natural" - and other setting as mentioned - I can't find the right Color Temp that I like. LOW temp seems a little too redish to me and HIGH temp seems little too blue. (Too bad that there isn't a 3rd setting - which was kinda of nice on the XBR1)

Any suggestions on what I should adjust to get rid or the extra red on LOW (or extra blue on the High Temp)

Thanks
RA

the setting posted here are a crock. He cranks the down to min in the service section, then cranks it to max using the user menu. Come on. that must give you a clue this is a crock. Use the factory settings and use the user menu and adjust to taste. Each viewer and program is different.
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post #111 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by little_trader View Post

Smeeg,

Don't recall seeing it it any of the threads, but are you calibrating your new TV with the New reflective screen or did you go back to the non-reflective screen?

Steve

there is only one screen. Its the same screen used on the 732 and the 831. check out the parts list for each and youll see. To believe anything else is self deluding.
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post #112 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turkle View Post

lcaillo- THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!! It looks like re-initializing the set did the trick. It powers up when set in the Fast Power On mode and the TV Guide has been downloading. Just a quick question- When I punched in the code, there were 2 settings that came up: Power Restore and Production Mode. They were both in the OFF position. After re-initializing, I checked again and they were both still in the OFF position. Do you know what these 2 features are and should they remain in the OFF position? (I'm not resetting anything at this point).

Once again, it's a real pleasure having you and your expertise on these forums (fora?). turkle

If you entered the screwed up settings advised here. that is the best way to undue the messed up colors and get back to something decent.
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post #113 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

There is probably nothing that can be done. These low profile DLP's all have this.


can i have more on this?

low profile?
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post #114 of 774 Old 10-19-2006, 07:06 PM
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It is not just DLPs. Anytime you shorten the distance between the lens and the screen, and make the mirror closer to the screen, it will be more difficult to keep the geometry correct. As the cabinets get lighter, there is less support for the mirror and screens, making them more likely to bow slightly. A very small bow in the screen or mirror can create a notable shift in the image. Compare these deviations with a CRT based set, however, and the geometry is still better than most of them ever were.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

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post #115 of 774 Old 10-20-2006, 09:38 PM
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Three days ago, I received DVE (Digital Video Essentials) here is what I came up with for my 57732.

Room set up-8 foot a way from set

All lights-Off

Color Temp-Low
Sharpness-07
Tint-21
Color-33
Brightness-33
Contrast-00
Picture Mode-Natural
Video Noise-Off
SharpEdge-Off
DeepField Imager-Off

PerfectColor/Tint
Magenta-31/31
Red-30/31
Yellow-41/12
Green-57/36
Cyan-35/36
Blue-31/31

I am still working on Red Push and Green Push.

Please give any feed back. It will take time for your eyes to get use to this set up, stick with it for two to three days.

Thanks

"I AM WE TODD IT....I AM SOFA KING WE TODD IT." -Albert Einstein
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post #116 of 774 Old 10-20-2006, 09:40 PM - Thread Starter
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I've added both of Jeff Meier's (umr's) calibration reports (one of a 732, one of an 831) to the FAQ

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post #117 of 774 Old 10-21-2006, 09:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

Three days ago, I received DVE (Digital Video Essentials) here is what I came up with for my 57732.

Room set up-8 foot a way from set

All lights-Off

Color Temp-Low
Sharpness-07
Tint-21
Color-33
Brightness-33
Contrast-00
Picture Mode-Natural
Video Noise-Off
SharpEdge-Off
DeepField Imager-Off

PerfectColor/Tint
Magenta-31/31
Red-30/31
Yellow-41/12
Green-57/36
Cyan-35/36
Blue-31/31

I am still working on Red Push and Green Push.

Please give any feed back. It will take time for your eyes to get use to this set up, stick with it for two to three days.

Thanks

Couple quick questions. Are you an amateur (like me) or a TV professional? Did you find DVE hard to use? Ever used it or any other similar product before? Where did you get it and roughly the cost (e.g. MSRP)? I'm trying to decide whether to try to calibrate mine or not. So far, I'm not too unhappy with it with fairly minor user menu tweeks.

Your settings look pretty extreme to me. Even just a single digit change to some of these makes a big difference. Thoughts?
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post #118 of 774 Old 10-21-2006, 11:56 AM
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Yesterday, I ventured into the service manual to set my RGB values to JKohn's. Today, I decided to change them back, however I can no longer change the GGL, GRL or GBL values. The unit will allow me to change all other values in the SM other than these that I changed previously. Why?
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post #119 of 774 Old 10-21-2006, 12:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Wahooslayer View Post

Yesterday, I ventured into the service manual to set my RGB values to JKohn's. Today, I decided to change them back, however I can no longer change the GGL, GRL or GBL values. The unit will allow me to change all other values in the SM other than these that I changed previously. Why?

you need to be in low mode to change the low mode values. you must be in high mode.
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post #120 of 774 Old 10-21-2006, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

Three days ago, I received DVE (Digital Video Essentials) here is what I came up with for my 57732.

Room set up-8 foot a way from set

All lights-Off

Color Temp-Low
Sharpness-07
Tint-21
Color-33
Brightness-33
Contrast-00
Picture Mode-Natural
Video Noise-Off
SharpEdge-Off
DeepField Imager-Off

PerfectColor/Tint
Magenta-31/31
Red-30/31
Yellow-41/12
Green-57/36
Cyan-35/36
Blue-31/31

I am still working on Red Push and Green Push.

Please give any feed back. It will take time for your eyes to get use to this set up, stick with it for two to three days.

Thanks

brightness is probably about right but your contrast is too low. on the grayscale test pattern, you want an obvious transition between each of the blocks without raising the contrast so high that you lose some the gray properties in the lightest boxes. try adjusting the contrast to somewhere between (jees, meant 36 to 42) .bring the tint back to the default and lower your color to 25. then go into perfectcolor/tint and set your colors. the tint on your yellow is too low, it has to look green on your set. also, because yellow is directly affected by changes to green, don't brighten it too much as you are already brightening the green. if you have any simpsons episodes you'll see immediately that your yellows are too light. blue was also a little dark OTB on my set, but like you, i've chosen not to lighten it. if you see any banding in the blues (like underwater or in shots of the sky) try adjusting the blue and the cyan simutaneously. if one is too dark or too light, you might end up with some banding where there should be a nice smooth gradient.
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