Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 01:49 AM - Thread Starter
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[Helpful references:

Main threads for the 2006-2007 models (xx731, xx732, xx831):

General: 2007 Mitsubishi WD-XX73X and XX831 Owner's Thread
xx731: 2007 Mitsubishi WD-57731 and WD-65731 Owner's Thread
xx732: 2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732)
xx831: 2007 Mitsubishi 57” and 65” 831 Owner's Thread [NO PRICE TALK]

Main threads for the 2007-2008 models (xx733, xx734, xx833):

xx733: Official 2007-2008 Mitsubishi WD-**733 DLP
xx734: Official Mitsubishi WD-XX734 Owner's Thread
xx833: Official Mitsubishi WD XX833 Owners Thread]

I will continuously update this post with my recommended settings and tweaks. There is a FAQ at the end of this post that covers such things as how to make service menu changes.

Be advised that neither my settings, nor anyone else's settings, are necessarily the best for you, for the following reasons:

1. Differences between personal preferences.
2. Differences in lighting conditions
3. Differences from one set to another (especially lamps--yes, a new lamp should mean a new ISF calibration)
4. Differerences between broadcasters, networks, cable companies and satellite services.
5. Differences between set top boxes and between DVD players.

In subsequent posts, I and others provide the original factory settings for the red, green and blue gain parameters in the service menu. Based on the degree of difference observed between the factory settings for RGB gain, it is obvious that the sets vary from each other more than a little (hence requiring substantially different RGB gan parameter values.)

Unfortunately, the optimal settings for brightness, contrast and color intensity depend in no small measure on both the color temperature and the grayscale (both of which are controlled by the RGB gain and RGB bias settings in the service menu.) The inescapable conclusion is that the best user-level settings for one set may differ than those for another, unless both sets have the same grayscale and color temperature.

Absent a professional calibration, the only workable option is to use the same RGB gain settings on all sets that will share the same user-level settings. Although that is far from perfect, as long as the RGB gain values are correct for the set on which they were originally derived, and also happen to be close to the values that are on-average correct for all the sets of the same make and model, it often produces a pretty good result that should at least be acceptable until a professional ISF calibration can be performed (but often does not mean always--and you may not be one of the lucky ones.)

Bottom line: One person's settings should be seen as a starting point that helps others more quickly arrive at settings that work best for them.

Sourcery's WD-xx831 Settings:

The user-level settings I provide below are optimized for my personal preferences and lighting conditions, and for the characteristics of my set's electronics, light engine and lamp. They are also optimized for my current RGB gain parameter values (as set in the service menu, and mostly as recommended by forum member jjnelson2000 and listed below.) In other words, the optimal settings for your set and for your viewing conditions will probably be different, but may not be too far different than the ones below. I provide my preferred settings on the theory that, on average, the typical variation between sets, viewing conditions and viewing preferences are not all that great. But that assumption doesn't always hold.

Update: My set developed the infamous halo ("blooming") problem. For now, that has been fixed by replacing the original light engine with a new one. There are two interesting facts about the new light engine: 1) The set looks better than it ever did, with absolutely inky blacks; and 2) I had to lower the contrast and raise the brightness (and the brightness had to be raised higher than would have ever been good with the original light engine.) The moral of this story should be obvious: There is non-trivial variation between sets of the same year, make and model as to which settings are optimal. The settings offered here may need to be tweaked to get you the best picture on your particular set.

Picture Mode: Natural
[The "picture mode" sets the auto-iris, and I believe it may also change the contrast and/or gamma. The three modes are Natural, Bright and Brilliant. Contrast, brightness and color temperature must be set independently for each picture mode, all other settings are shared among the three picture modes]

Color Temperature: Low
Brightness: 35 (jnelson2000 recommends 31)
Contrast: 48 (jnelson2000 recommends 46)
Deep Field Imager: Off
Color: 31
Tint: 31 (Factory Default)
Video Noise: HD=Low/Medium; SD=Off (this is important)
Sharp Edge: OFF--if it's on, you may get severe artifcating when watching interlaced signals (480i, 1080i.)

Perfect Color: Factory Defaults, except for the following:
..Magenta: 30
..Red: 26
..Green: 39
..Cyan: 38

Perfect Tint: Factory Defaults, exept for the following:
..Magenta: 61
..Yellow: 20
..Green: 63
..Cyan: 43

Service Menu Settings (The procedure for making service menu changes is explained in the FAQ at the end of this post)

6. GGL -1020
7. GRL - 1050
8. GBL - 915

Change log:

2007-10-13T23:07:00-0700:
....Changed contrast from 38 to 48
....Changed color from 27 to 31
2007-06-24T13:44:00-0700:
....Changed Brightness from 34 to 35 (Reason: additional fine-tuning for new light engine)
....Changed color from 29 to 27 (Reason: additional fine-tuning for new light engine)

2007-06-17T15:10:00-0700:
....Changed Contrast from 46 to 32 (Reason: new light engine)
....Changed Brightness from 27 to 34 (Reason: new light engine)
....Changed color from 26 to 29

2006-11-14T17:18:00-0800:
....Changed Contrast from 40 to 46
....Changed Color from 28 to 26
....Changed SharpEdge to off for SD--and added reason why

2006-11-06T22:58:00-0800:
....Changed to jnelson2000's settings (with a few differences, as noted above)
....Changed 6.GGL from 911 to 1020
....Changed 7.GRL from 990 to 1050
....Changed 8.GBL from 798 to 915
....Changed Contrast from 34 to 40 (jnelson2000 recommends 46)
....Changed Color from 20 to 28 (jnelson2000 recommends 31)
....Changed PerfectColor->Magenta from 31 to 30
....Changed PefectColor->Red from 31 to 26
....Changed PerfectColor->Green from 31 to 39
....Changed PerfectColor->Cyan from 31 to 38
....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 37 to 61
....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 31 to 26
....Changed PerfectTint->Yellow from 27 to 20
....Changed PerfectTint->Green from 31 to 63
....Changed PerfectTint->Cyan from 33 to 43

2006-10-20T21:07:00-0700:
....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 34 to 37
....Changed PerfectTint->Yellow from 28 to 27
....Changed PerfectTint->Cyan from 31 to 33
....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 34 to 31


2006-10-14T12:48:00-0700:
....Changed Video Noise to different values for HD and SD
....Changed SharpEdge to different values for HD and SD

2006-10-12T20:45:00-0700:
....Changed brightness from 31-33 to 30-32
....Changed color from 22 to 20
....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 23 to 34
....Changed VideoNoise from Off to Medium

2006-10-10T10:25:00-0700:
....Changed RGB gain parameter values in the service menu to those recommended by JKohn
....Changed brightness from 28-30 to 31-33
....Changed contrast from 40 to 34
....Changed color from 23 to 22
....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 36 to 34
....Changed PerfectTint->Red from 31 to 23
....Changed VideoNoise from Off to Medium

2006-10-08T16:42:00-0700:
....Changed contrast from 44 to 40.

2006-10-08T14:49:00-0700:
....Changed color from 24 to 23.

2006-10-08T12:48:00-0700:
....Changed brightness from 28 to a range, based on lighting conditions.
....Changed PerfectTint->Magenta from 40 to 36, and PerfectTint->Yellow from 24 to 28. The initial values overcompenstated for the red push.

Methodology:

I use Digital Video Essentials to set brightness, contrast and sharpness.

In the absence of the requisite equipment, I use my own judgement to set color and hue. The DVE color/hue setting procedure apparently depends upon an accurate grayscale/color temperature, which my set does not yet have.

My goals in tweaking the picture settings are as follows:

1. Make the picture look as real and natural as possible. I look at the real world, observe how things really look, and try to make the picture on the TV look like that.

2. Blacks should be black, but details of the picture should not be obscured. The sense of depth should be maximized.

3. Minimize artifacts, pixelation, macroblocking, ringing, noise, white crush and black crush.

Pictures:




FAQ:

Video Input signals:

Connection: {VerticalRes [p | i] frames-per-second}

HDMI: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60
Firewire: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60
DVI-I: 480p60, 600p60, 720p60, 768p60, 1024p60, 1080p24, 1080p30, 1080p60
Component: 480i60, 480p60, 720p60, 1080i60
Video/S-Video: 480i60

HDMI is supported at version 1.2a

Calibration Reports:

Jeff Meier (UMR):

....WD-xx831 (TV belonging to AVS Forum Member Midnite1971):
........WD-65831 Calibration Report.pdf
........WD-65831 Initial Tristimulus.pdf
........WD-65831 Final Tristimulus.pdf

....WD-xx732 (TV belonging to AVS Forum Member Cap'n PreShoot):
........WD-65732 Calibration Report.pdf
........WD-65732 Initial Tristimulus.pdf
........WD-65732 Final Tristimulus.pdf

TV Calibration Articles & Resources:


The Service Menu

Service menu settings are universal across all inputs.

WARNING: Write down all defaults if you are going to change anything. Do not change anything you don't understand. Changing some of the settings may permanently damage your TV, or make it impossible to see any picture at all (so that no one would ever be able to see what was happening on the screen so that they could fix the problem using the service menu.)

According to UMR (Jeff Meier,) who is a professional ISF calibrator, "...in the past if you happened to press PIP while in the SM the memory was hosed and would need to be reset by a factory download. Who knows what little gems are present in this model that can cause your display to go south."

To enter the service menu, press the following keys in sequence on the remote: MENU 2 4 5 7

To see the video test patterns: fast forward, rewind

To scroll through the options, press the VIDEO key.

To change the values, press the UP or DOWN buttons.

To save a change, press the ENTER button.

To exit without saving, just press the EXIT button.

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post #2 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 01:57 AM
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salt and pepper to taste. You mean you dont have to have a certified calibrater fly out to your home for the optimum killer picture?
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post #3 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 05:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

I will continuously update this post with my recommended settings and tweaks, and will add a FAQ later (e.g., how to enter the service menu, how to correct overscan, etc.)

Be advised that neither my settings, nor anyone else's settings, are necessarily the best for you, for the following reasons:

1. Differences between personal preferences.
2. Differences in lighting conditions
3. Differences from one set to another
4. Differerences between broadcasters, networks, cable companies and satellite services.
5. Differences between set top boxes and between DVD players.

One person's settings should be seen as a starting point that helps others more quickly arrive at settings that work best for them.

For now, here are the settings I've arrived at for my WD-65831 after the first day of tweaking:

Picture Mode: Natural
[The "picture mode" sets the auto-iris, and I believe it may also change the contrast and/or gamma. The other two modes are Bright and Brilliant. Contrast, brightness and color temperature must be set independently for each picture mode, all other settings are shared among the three picture modes]

Color Temperature: Low
Brightness: 28
Contrast: 44

Deep Field Imager: Off
Color: 24
Tint: 31 (Factory Default)
Video Noise: Off
Sharp Edge: Off
Sharpness: 0

Perfect Color: Factory Defaults
Perfect Tint: Factory Defaults, exept for the following:
..Magenta: 40
..Yellow: 24

FAQ: Coming Soon

Interesting. I have my contrast down and the brightness up which seemed to give me more detail in dark areas. My other settings are similar to yours, except perfect color and perfect tint which are just very slightly different from default. I'm going to switch my contrast/brightness and check it out. I will state that I watched a boxing match on Showtime last night and it would be hard for me to get a better picture. The broadcast was perfect. No out of focus moments, no digitizing(what I call it), not anything bad. Another boxing match on HBO was less than stellar. Tells me that these sets are providing the best picture the broadcast allows. I had a little bit of red push and severe orange brightness(Tennessee game) and corrected that by dialing down red perfect color 2 notches. Maybe I should have used Perfect Tint, but it worked. I have the 73732 and will continue to tweak with input from all. I will post actual settings later as I wish to check out how it performs during the Talladega race today.
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post #4 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 06:44 AM
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The gray scale is nearly always too red at the low color temp OOB. Typically, even after gray scale adjustment, the red and yellow are a bit hot and the yellow is slightly shifted to red. The magenta is shifted to red as well, all making the red problem worse. Perfect tint gets it pretty close, but it is better to start with correct gray scale first.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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post #5 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 07:09 AM
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Icaillo,

Understanding that there is no way for the consumer to be able to perfrom the level of calibration that you are qualified to do, is there any way for a user to be able adjust the grey scale that you refer to in post #4? Are there any test discs that you recommend that are worth the money that can do a decent job of correctling the grey scale or is this strictly an adjustment that only a professional with the proper equipment can do?

In your opinion are there any vidio calibration discs that are worth the money?

Thanks,

jay
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post #6 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

The gray scale is nearly always too red at the low color temp OOB. Typically, even after gray scale adjustment, the red and yellow are a bit hot and the yellow is slightly shifted to red. The magenta is shifted to red as well, all making the red problem worse. Perfect tint gets it pretty close, but it is better to start with correct gray scale first.


Leonard, some folks here have felt the greens are a bit vivid - do you typically adjust that as well via Perfect Color/Perfect Tint, or is that issue eliminated by a correct greyscale?

Go Duke !
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post #7 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 07:45 AM
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I posted this in the owners' threads but I guess I'll include it here as well for completeness. Out of the box the "Low" color temp setting is preferable to "High" IMHO, but it's really a little too low, giving the image a yellowish look. I used an i1 Spectro to i1 and measured the color temp at 5500 at the default settings which confirms the yellow cast I was seeing. So I went into the service menu and changed the green/red/blue gains using the i1 to dial in 6500K. The result looks much better IMHO. Although the settings below may not be exactly right for every set they may be closer than the factory defaults if you want to give them a try.

6. GGL - 911
7. GRL - 990
8. GBL - 798

Note these only affect the "low" color temp, if you're using "high" you'd need to adjust GGH, GRH, and GBH.
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Sourcery, I can see this ending up as hundreds of posts with everyone using different settings.

Why not post how you arrived at those settings instead?

Are you eyeballing it, using a reference disk like DVE/AVIA/GetGray, broadcast test patterns, service mode test patterns, a signal generator?
  • Brightness I can set without a test pattern
  • Contrast I need a test pattern
  • Color/tint I need a test pattern

Quote:


Deep Field Imager: Off

agree, crushes blacks when on

Quote:


Video Noise: Off

off for HD, low for some SD

Quote:


Sharp Edge: Off

agree

Quote:


Sharpness: 0

agree
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post #9 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

I posted this in the owners' threads but I guess I'll include it here as well for completeness. Out of the box the "Low" color temp setting is preferable to "High" IMHO, but it's really a little too low, giving the image a yellowish look. I used an i1 Spectro to i1 and measured the color temp at 5500 at the default settings which confirms the yellow cast I was seeing. So I went into the service menu and changed the green/red/blue gains using the i1 to dial in 6500K. The result looks much better IMHO. Although the settings below may not be exactly right for every set they may be closer than the factory defaults if you want to give them a try.

6. GGL - 911
7. GRL - 990
8. GBL - 798

Note these only affect the "low" color temp, if you're using "high" you'd need to adjust GGH, GRH, and GBH.

Curious what your settings were before the change.
My 57831 is at

6. GGL - 990
7. GRL - 1024
8. GBL - 810
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post #10 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 09:39 AM
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Has anyone turned the shutter ON/OFF in the 2-4-5-3 PIMS service menu?

What is this shutter and is it normally ON or OFF?

Looks like it's normally ON. Turning it OFF gives brighter and slightly sharper pic. Notice this especially with test patterns containing vertical white lines.

Still not sure what it is, maybe this is the Dark Detailer?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trackman View Post

Leonard, some folks here have felt the greens are a bit vivid - do you typically adjust that as well via Perfect Color/Perfect Tint, or is that issue eliminated by a correct greyscale?

Yes and yes. Gray scale may get the green and red a bit closer but they will still likely need to be reeled in a bit. On some of the sets there is a shift in green relative to yellow, IME. I have seen enough variation in the half dozen or so sets that I have seen thus far to want to not generalize too much.

Understand that color as we describe it is based on a single level measurement and it is assumed that the gray scale is tracking pretty tight. given the deviations in gray scale that the sets come out of the box with, adjusting the color may be very difficult without first getting the gray scale right. My comments and suggestions need to be taken in that context. Pulling in the green without correcting the gray scale can make cyan worse on the high color temp setting, as it is far too blue. On the lower color temp, it has to be reduced more than you would need to with correct gray scale as the color temp is too low. The grays scale tracking is also very non linear on both.

Yes, calibration is important...every user should be calibrated.

Need electronics repair? A great place to start looking for a shop in your area: http://www.tvrepairpros.com/
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Anyone using DVE and want to check something?

With DVE, go to Title 14, Chapter 1
Chapter skip forward to Chapter 2

Do you see something besides 20% gray?
Like an outline of the brightest areas from Chapter 1?

Now Chapter skip forward to Chapter 3 and skip back to Chapter 2.
Gone now?

If you see this and your not using an Oppo 971, then it's the Mits?

I don't have another DVD player to check this with, only the Oppo 971.

Oh, if it matters, the Oppo is attached to HDMI-1.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lcaillo View Post

Yes and yes. Gray scale may get the green and red a bit closer but they will still likely need to be reeled in a bit. On some of the sets there is a shift in green relative to yellow, IME. I have seen enough variation in the half dozen or so sets that I have seen thus far to want to not generalize too much.

Understand that color as we describe it is based on a single level measurement and it is assumed that the gray scale is tracking pretty tight. given the deviations in gray scale that the sets come out of the box with, adjusting the color may be very difficult without first getting the gray scale right. My comments and suggestions need to be taken in that context. Pulling in the green without correcting the gray scale can make cyan worse on the high color temp setting, as it is far too blue. On the lower color temp, it has to be reduced more than you would need to with correct gray scale as the color temp is too low. The grays scale tracking is also very non linear on both.

I understand. I will correct the grayscale first (via trying the Low SM settings posted above by JKohn) then tackle the colors with VE. My set should be here next week.

Go Duke !
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Is there a way to change the default grey bars for standard 4:3 format to black? I think that in my dark room, black would look more seamless.

Thanks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiemat View Post

Is there a way to change the default grey bars for standard 4:3 format to black? I think that in my dark room, black would look more seamless.

Thanks

The TV uses black bars.
Are you using an STB?
If so, the STB is adding them.
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Thanks for your response. I was just coming back to clarify my question and say that I was not sure what was generating the bars. I am using a set top box, but the grey bars really bug me. They are distracting. I have an 8300HD STB, I don't supose there is a way to just let the TV handle it, or even just change the color to black?
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kiemat View Post

I don't supose there is a way to just let the TV handle it, or even just change the color to black?

The black (or gray) bars appear for four different reasons:

1. The TV puts them there when it receives a 480i or 480p signal with a 4:3 aspect ratio.
2. An STB or DVD player (or other such device) puts them there when it converts a 4:3-aspect ratio 480i or 480p signal to 720p, 1080i or 1080p, before sending the signal to the TV.
3. The broadcaster puts them there when they send 4:3 content over a channel that operates at either 720p or 1080i.
4. The software that converts film to HD (or to widescreen DVD) puts black bars at the top and bottom of the picture in order to letterbox a move whose aspect ratio is wider than 16:9.

For case 1, the Mitsubishis let you use whatever color you like, as long as it's black (with apologies to Henry Ford.)

For case 2, some STBs and DVD players will let you choose the bar color. Others wont.

For case 3, there's nothing you can do, other than write a letter to the broadcaster (which will almost certainly be ignored.)

For case 4, there's even less you can do.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

Although the settings below may not be exactly right for every set they may be closer than the factory defaults if you want to give them a try.

6. GGL - 911
7. GRL - 990
8. GBL - 798

Thansk for that. I'll try that out later. For now, I want to arrive at the best possible settings for folks who would prefer to not use the service menu. Some people (not me) find that to be scary and intimidating, and just want to do what's simple and safe.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwall23 View Post

Sourcery, I can see this ending up as hundreds of posts with everyone using different settings.

Why not post how you arrived at those settings instead?

Are you eyeballing it, using a reference disk like DVE/AVIA/GetGray, broadcast test patterns, service mode test patterns, a signal generator?
  • Brightness I can set without a test pattern
  • Contrast I need a test pattern
  • Color/tint I need a test pattern

See my updated Original Post. I explain my methodology.

I will get the set ISF calibrated, once I've decided it's a keeper.

As for the number of posts, that problem would exist with or without this thread. Hopefully, it will at least be easier to keep this thread more on topic than we've been able to do in the other 2007 Mitsu threads.

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post #20 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

See my updated Original Post. I explain my methodology.

Interesting. I'm also using DVE thru Oppo 971 on HDMI-1.
All my inputs are set to natural mode and low color temp.

Using Title 12, Chapters 14 and 21, my brightness is 33 and contrast is 37. I've also found these are the settings needed for my raw CABLE on ANT1 and OTA on ANT2.

Oh, and I've changed nothing in the service menu.

P.S. Mine's a 57831.
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post #21 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 02:23 PM
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Thansk for that. I'll try that out later. For now, I want to arrive at the best possible settings for folks who would prefer to not use the service menu. Some people (not me) find that to be scary and intimidating, and just want to do what's simple and safe.


How does one you get in the service menu?
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post #22 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by pinibo View Post

How does one you get in the service menu?

menu 2-4-5-7

hit enter to write any changes

hit exit to ext or menu menu to exit
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post #23 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
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How does one you get in the service menu?

I have added that information to the FAQ (at the end of the post that started this thread.)

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post #24 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by bwall23 View Post

Curious what your settings were before the change.
My 57831 is at

6. GGL - 990
7. GRL - 1024
8. GBL - 810

Mine where

6. GGL - 955
7. GRL - 1024
8. GBL - 799

I am suprised to see such a diffrent set up.

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post #25 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

Mine where

6. GGL - 955
7. GRL - 1024
8. GBL - 799

I am suprised to see such a diffrent set up.

Mine are:

6. GGL - 962
7. GRL - 958
8. GBL - 1024

This is getting to be interesting...lol!
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post #26 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Bangedup View Post

I am suprised to see such a diffrent set up.

Here's my factory settings:

6 GGL=1009
7 GRL=1024
8 GBL=835

Is Mitsubishi even attempting to calibrate these sets?

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post #27 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 08:27 PM
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Are the GGL, GRL and GBL always the same numbers as the GGH, GRH and GBH and should the "H" numbers be changed also to reflect the new number settings of the the "L"?
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post #28 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 08:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by pinibo View Post

Are the GGL, GRL and GBL always the same numbers as the GGH, GRH and GBH and should the "H" numbers be changed also to reflect the new number settings of the the "L"?

The GxL values control the "low" color temperature. The GxH values control the "high" color temperature. The words "high" and "low" in the label of the picture settings menu are just names. There's nothing that requires that one be higher or lower than the other. You can have your ISF calibrator set one of them to D65k based on the readings of his instruments, and set the other one to whatever triad of RGB gain values you want. And it won't matter which is which.

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post #29 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by kiemat View Post

Is there a way to change the default grey bars for standard 4:3 format to black? I think that in my dark room, black would look more seamless.

Thanks

Using the 8300 remote, press "settings" twice, then go to "tv borders" and set to dark.
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post #30 of 774 Old 10-08-2006, 09:41 PM
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Curious what your settings were before the change.
My 57831 is at

6. GGL - 990
7. GRL - 1024
8. GBL - 810

I must confess I didn't write down the original RGB gain numbers before changing them. Call me crazy but I figured this was a pretty low-risk adjustment since I was using measurement hardware. I seem to recall I had to lower red and raise blue, I don't think I made much of a change to green.
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