Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread - Page 162 - AVS Forum
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post #4831 of 4836 Old 11-30-2014, 07:06 AM
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Something better than Spray Way for lens cleaning?

Cleaned the lenses on my 51F59A the other day. Been about 18 months since last cleaning and they weren't as dusty as expected, however I still had smudging problems using Spray Way (blue and white can). Last time similar smudging tendency using my trusty can of Spray Way but this time was worse. Is there anything that is more smudge and streak free than Spray Way but also safe for the coating on our lenses?

Here's how I go about it:

1. Lint free paper towels
2. Spray Way plastics-safe foaming glass cleaner (ammonia-free)
3. Lens cleaning cloth for poly lenses obtained from Optical shop where prescription eyeglasses are sold

I spray the lens and let the foam sit for a minute or so and dissolve down, then I blot it up gently with the lint free paper towels, taking care to blot up and down and no sliding motions yet, turning the lint free paper towel as needed to absorb up most of the cleaner. I then spray it again and let it sit for a few moments, repeat blotting with fresh lint-free. 3rd spray and this time with gentle wiping motion. 4th spray a sparing amount and let sit briefly then use the eyeglasses lens cloth to gently wipe off the lens. Examine under led flashlight lighting for smudged areas. Quite a few actually. Keep repeating with light spray and eyeglass lens cloth until smudge-free.

Just looking for a cleaning fluid that might be less smudge prone.

I didn't have the upper section (mirror assembly) off this time. Last time I did, and the trick I used to clear up any remaining smudges was instead of spraying lightly with the Spray Way I would get up close and exhale on it to form condensate on the lens surface, then quickly and gently wipe with the eyeglass lens cloth. That cleaned up smudges very effectively. When I say smudges I am referring to small streaks on random areas of the lens that are only visible under illumination from a small flashlight-- in my case a small LED flashlight. Under room lighting the lens will look shiny and clean but put the flashlight on and some smudges are visible and removing those is the "final touch" to cleaning, for me. This time I did not remove the mirror assembly just the back panel and obviously I could not get my bucket head in there to put breath condensate onto the lenses for final touch-up and had to rely on Spray Way instead, which seemed to keep replicating tiny smudges over and over.

The good news is that I did finally get each lens smudge free, it just was more tedious then any time before. Picture is crisp and vibrant again. Like.

P.S. No smokers in the house.

Last edited by VivatHD; 11-30-2014 at 07:20 AM.
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post #4832 of 4836 Old 11-30-2014, 07:21 AM
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Along the same lines as above, has anyone used Pec Pads for cleaning the lenses in the 51F series and did they work well?
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post #4833 of 4836 Old 11-30-2014, 02:50 PM
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My technique is slightly different. I use paper towels because the combination of absorbancy and evaporation of the light mist trail can be used to my advantage in not winding up with dried residue afterwards. To your credit you didn't even MENTION micro fibre cloths, which have no absorbency at all! Good show on that.

I never rub back and forth on the lenses AT ALL. Any smudges you can't get out have to be suspected of being scuffs now, which are simply thousands of tiny scratches at a time. And just as impossible to remove once indelibly forced into the soft plastic. If they will not go away with repeated attention, I am afraid that's what you have there. Luckily, everything is out of focus at that part of the light path and if the scuffs are not too big they will remain unnoticeable. But if your cleaning methods caused them, more will appear in the future with the same cleaning methods, and eventually they will be visible in your content. If you actually got them out I congratulate you. If they were scuffs rather than smudges they would not come out at all. You have to be careful of repeated applications of any cleaning method, tho. The natural urge is to grind away harder when smudges won't come out, which is the worst thing you can do.

I use one swipe/third of the lens after my 15 seconds of allowing the liquid to suspend the gritty particulates in there, being sure to LIFT ahead of me on the paper towels so as to lift any gritty particulates OFF the plastic rather than grinding it in. I never blot anything. And I never use eyeglass equipment for cleaning lenses that are subjected to endless static cling by the high voltage, drawing any and all airborne contaminants out of the air and onto the lenses, winding up being glopped onto and dried onto those lens surfaces, after years of non-cleaning. Eyeglass cleaning equipment is not designed for that.

Other than those things I congratulate you on your cleaning technique. If it did not do any damage to your optical surfaces, you have done it right.

But you have to have a method you can use once a year for the life of your set, over and over and over again, and once every few years on the internal optics that you have to remove the lens barrels to get to. If there is an air gap between the lens barrels and the CRT coolant covers and you have not cleaned the surfaces under that - 2 surfaces per gun - then only 4 of the 10 surfaces that get dirty in there have been cleaned so far and your job is less than half done. Which will show in your viewing, as to the inky transparency of your blacks and the faithfulness of your shadow detail being questionable. If your light path has not been restored to crystal clarity again, there will always be some level of bleariness in your viewing when the blacks are supposed to be being inky, transparent jet black, with no glow around any bright spot or area in the content. If any of those 10 surfaces that get dirty - of the 28 in there - are still not clean there will be bleariness, and a glow around bright objects when against a background of black. Worst offender will be the doughnut hole - black in the center with bright content in a circle all around it. What's in the black center will not have the proper shadow detail if the optics are still dirty. All you will see is messiness.

When I do optics cleanings, the set returns to brand new status on the sparklingness of the internal projection light path. It's like getting a brand new set, with blazing dynamic punch. If anything has been left out, it just does not look like new again. Not yet.

If anyone wants me to be there for them on the phone when they do it at their own location to make sure they stay on the straight and narrow and avoid potentially permanent-damage land mines, I often spend an entire Saturday morning coaching owners on this and other things about their CRT RPTVs.

I invite all readers of this thread to enjoy the thread I started in 2006 entitled "Don't Dump Your CRT RPTV!" It has had more than a million views and is still going strong. It is for anyone who is clued in to how amazing these sets are and always have been.

http://www.avsforum.com/forum/showth...1#post29417241

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Last edited by Mr Bob; 12-01-2014 at 09:13 AM.
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post #4834 of 4836 Old 12-01-2014, 05:39 AM
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I've never had the barrels off. I'm in fear of such an operation, as I think upon re-install they might be micro displaced from where they were originally and thus change focus point on the mirror and throw convergence way off?
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post #4835 of 4836 Old 12-01-2014, 09:23 AM
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Your fears are not misplaced. When you put the lens barrels back on, they never go back EXACTLY where they were before, even when you make sure that they are all oriented exactly the same direction as before in terms of the clockwise/counterclockwise nature of where each lens barrel goes back in place. They all need to be oriented exactly as they were before - with the focusing wingnut shafts facing exactly the direction each was facing before. And of course don't untighten those wingnuts unless you intend to change the focus.

However what gets changed when you put the lenses back on is really only at the crosshairs. The rest of the convergence falls back into place, generally speaking, once the crosshairs are re-aligned. And micro differences MAY appear in the convergence, but not noticeably so, at least to my experience. But then I usually do a reconvergence after a cleaning anyway.

After a year it's good to redo the convergence anyway, so if you want to do that, be sure and do the cleaning first, then the re-convergence. Micro differences may appear when you put each lens barrel back on - always do that op 1 by 1 so you CAN'T get those lens barrels mixed up, each one's optical focus is tightly matched to its color - but you'll clean those up with the re-convergence.

If your set has that air gap, doing the lenses under the lenses is absolutely essential to regaining all your dynamic punch back again, like when she was new, so don't leave out that step. I have tests for whether your set actually needs to have the deeper optics cleaned, which I will be glad to share with you if you happen to sign up for a coaching hour with me.


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Last edited by Mr Bob; 12-01-2014 at 09:30 AM.
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post #4836 of 4836 Old 12-01-2014, 09:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aafter View Post
I have a 51F59A TV and the screen has a pink tint to it including the OSD.

Gimme some hot tips.

Edit: Got it. Turned the green pot. Things are swell!
Those pots establish a very delicate balance, they realign where the centerpoint is of the cutoffs in the grayscale registers. So be sure your b/w has been returned to the color of a thick cloudy overcast sky.

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