Hitachi 51/57/65F59A CRT RPTV Tweaks Thread - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 4829 Old 01-19-2007, 10:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

I'm thinking we may just want to start a F59 Tweaks thread.

Well, here it is. I took the ball Lee Bailey threw out there and ran with it. Figure this will give current/new/future F59 owners an easier place to find specific posts regarding Hitachi F59 tweaks/adjustments/etc. Enjoy!

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 4829 Old 01-19-2007, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Livin View Post

Hitachi Service DIY Guilde.rtf

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I compiled all the info I found and the steps outlined by others into a single RTF that has corrections and streamlined the info including a walkthrough (by Ballz) and quick ref sections.

It is 3 pages that is easy to read and understand. I hope this helps others.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=66ZVR0OR <<<(the link to the DIY guide)


I just finished my tweaking thanks to all the help of the great community here!

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=66ZVR0OR <<<<<(or here )

Figure this would be the best thing to post first here.

Now, let's get some other nuggets of info from others here!

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #3 of 4829 Old 01-19-2007, 02:03 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Lee Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Central California,USA
Posts: 1,817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwebb1970 View Post

Well, here it is. I took the ball Lee Bailey threw out there and ran with it. Figure this will give current/new/future F59 owners an easier place to find specific posts regarding Hitachi F59 tweaks/adjustments/etc. Enjoy!

It would be a good idea to post all the important stuff, such as where to get manuals and some of the default settings in the first post, and update it as necessary. Keeps people from having to read through EVERY post to get to the good stuff.

Like this information:
Press and hold the MENU key on the TV control panel, then press the REMOTE CONTROL'S MENU+8+SELECT buttons.

To EXIT Adjustment mode, press the INPUT key on control panel, or the EXIT key on the remote.

DCAM Mode:

On the REMOTE Control:

Hold down the TV key
Press the MENU key
Press the INFO key
Release the TV key

REMOTE CONTROL KEY FUNCTIONS WHEN IN DCAM MODE

INPUTS - Blue (13x9 adjust)
ASPECT - ROM Write
DAY/NIGHT - ROM Read
MENU - Remove Color
EXIT - Cross Hatch/Video Mode
INFO - Green
GUIDE - Calculation
2 - Cursor UP
5 - Cursor DOWN
6 - Cursor RIGHT
4 - Cursor LEFT
0 - RED (7x5 Adjust)
STOP KEY - Initialize
PLAY KEY - Raster Position
FAST FORWARD KEY - Phase


To get out of DCAM Mode:
Hold TV Key
Press 0 Key
Press 1 Key
Release TV Key

Use at your own risk. Always write down settings before making any changes!

Where to get the service manual: ServiceManuals.net

Some Informational PDFs and Docs:

Hitachi DCAM Manual

Hitachi DIY Guide

Lens Striping information:
Advanced Lens Striping
CZ Eddie likes this.
Lee Bailey is offline  
post #4 of 4829 Old 01-20-2007, 06:57 AM
Senior Member
 
fuddvd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
HDMI Problem: some people still report a bug displaying over HDMI, its a problem with the HDMI spec. NOT the Hitachi tv itself. Hopefully it will be fixed with a firmware upgrade but there is none as of yet.
fuddvd is offline  
post #5 of 4829 Old 01-21-2007, 10:49 AM
Newbie
 
Hitachiownr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 9
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Bumpski....
Hitachiownr is offline  
post #6 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 09:06 AM
Newbie
 
cavery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Here is my little contribution to the site. I've created these screen jigs based on the specs in the service manual.

You should be able to get them printed at any reputable print shop. I've sourced a shop locally that can do it rather inexpensively.

One thing to make sure is that they do not scale the documant at all. If they do, the template will not work. If you have any suggestion or requests for changes, let me know.

As a note, I am considering getting these printed and mailing them out as a service for those of you who don't want to get them printed yourselves. If you are interested, PM me and I can get accurate pricing.

Enjoy.

 

51F59-ScreenJig.pdf 177.408203125k . file

 

57F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.3154296875k . file

 

65F59-ScreenJig.pdf 173.060546875k . file
cavery is offline  
post #7 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 09:46 AM
Newbie
 
mattcage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Cavery, what should these be printed on? Or conversely, what would something like this cost mailed out in a tube run from your print shop place?

Thanks,
Matt Hester
mattcage is offline  
post #8 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 10:27 AM
Newbie
 
cavery's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 7
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Sorry about that, I should have mentioned in the post that you should get it printed on transparent Mylar. It's a clear plastic like material that usually comes in 36" rolls. Any shop that does printing for CAD should know what it is.

As for me shipping it out, It would depend on the size of your screen, but it would be between $55 to $75 shipped, which is cheaper than buying one of the official jigs. I'm going to the printhouse this week, so I'll get more detailed info while I'm there.
cavery is offline  
post #9 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 11:10 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Lee Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Central California,USA
Posts: 1,817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Interestingly enough, I did get a response back from SimplayHD about why there were no DVD players listed at their site.

The reason was, there were NO DVD Players that were submitted for testing that PASSED!

For obvious reasons, they can/will not post the failing machines. All I can tell you is that the F59 series does pass their testing for HDMI compatibilty, with the other devices that are on their list.
Lee Bailey is offline  
post #10 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lee Bailey View Post

Interestingly enough, I did get a response back from SimplayHD about why there were no DVD players listed at their site.

The reason was, there were NO DVD Players that were submitted for testing that PASSED!

For obvious reasons, they can/will not post the failing machines. All I can tell you is that the F59 series does pass their testing for HDMI compatibilty, with the other devices that are on their list.


So the HDMI "freakouts" aren't the fault of the Hitachis (or other TVs) but the HDMI gear that gets connected to them.

Still not a single problem w/ my Sony DVP-NS75H via HDMI to my TV.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #11 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 11:55 AM
Senior Member
 
Chitown1211's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 363
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by jwebb1970 View Post

So the HDMI "freakouts" aren't the fault of the Hitachis (or other TVs) but the HDMI gear that gets connected to them.

Still not a single problem w/ my Sony DVP-NS75H via HDMI to my TV.

This is what I thought all along. Otherwise why would ANY HDMI device work on this set?

yea for copywrite protection !!!
Chitown1211 is offline  
post #12 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 01:14 PM
Member
 
thefunks67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Powder Springs, GA
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Geometry errors are adjusted in service menu, correct?

-Funk
thefunks67 is offline  
post #13 of 4829 Old 01-24-2007, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by thefunks67 View Post

Geometry errors are adjusted in service menu, correct?

-Funk

DCAM mode in conjucntion w/ the correct screen jig being used. Lee Bailey listed an on-line source for one that's a bit cheaper than the "official" Hitachi part.

Another post here from cavery has a "homemade" jig (taken from the Service Manual's jig illustrations/dimensions) that can be taken to a print shop.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #14 of 4829 Old 01-27-2007, 07:21 AM
Member
 
SPACEMAKER's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Mason, MI
Posts: 185
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Will I need to go through and make all those adjustments in the DIY guide when I first get my set?

Does the magic focus actually work?

Do those setting work for HD,SD and regular channels?

Should I use those settings with the Lee Bailey setting from the big thread?

Will I be constantly tweaking this TV?

As someone getting ready to purchase their first HD set I find all this info a bit intimidating. I am used to plugging everything in a making a few sound and picture tweaks.

I realize I am asking a lot of questions here but I just want to do things the right way and get the best pq I possibly can out of this set.

Thanks to all of you who are so helpful. A site like this is dream come true for someone who is unfamiliar with all of the technical aspects of these sets.
SPACEMAKER is offline  
post #15 of 4829 Old 01-29-2007, 07:21 AM
Advanced Member
 
mabrym's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: New York
Posts: 911
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I find all those service menu adjustments a little too daunting and am afraid of screwing it up. I just got the TV this weekend and overall an very happy with the picture. I am using Lee Bailey's basic settings. Rome, Sunrise Earth, basketball and hockey all looked great. On a few shows, like Sportscenter, it was not quite as good. On my Samsung 30 inch that show looked as good as anything, on this set it's just a little bit off, just a bit grainy on some studio shots. I believe ESPN is 720p and the TV always 1080i, should I turn off 720p on the cable box? Regardles, is this grainyness a convergence issue or something else? Adjusting the sharpness didn't seem to help and I don't have edge enhancements or anything like that turned on.

Re the service menu, are there some basic and simple adjustments I can make without getting into too much detail? Turning off the red push seems easy enough. I don't seem to have any geometry issues, maybe overscan can be adjusted a bit horizontally. I did not see how to do that in the files posted above. When I go into the 9 and 117 point convergence menu everything is white, does that mean there is nothing to adjust there?

I'm thinking of having a pro come in at some point, if I do that and spend a couple of hundred dollars, will he have to come back again in a year?

Mike

"Will you stop, Dave? My mind is going."
mabrym is offline  
post #16 of 4829 Old 01-29-2007, 08:40 AM
Senior Member
 
Chitown1211's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Twin Cities
Posts: 363
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mabrym View Post

I find all those service menu adjustments a little too daunting and am afraid of screwing it up. I just got the TV this weekend and overall an very happy with the picture. I am using Lee Bailey's basic settings. Rome, Sunrise Earth, basketball and hockey all looked great. On a few shows, like Sportscenter, it was not quite as good. On my Samsung 30 inch that show looked as good as anything, on this set it's just a little bit off, just a bit grainy on some studio shots. I believe ESPN is 720p and the TV always 1080i, should I turn off 720p on the cable box? Regardles, is this grainyness a convergence issue or something else? Adjusting the sharpness didn't seem to help and I don't have edge enhancements or anything like that turned on.

Re the service menu, are there some basic and simple adjustments I can make without getting into too much detail? Turning off the red push seems easy enough. I don't seem to have any geometry issues, maybe overscan can be adjusted a bit horizontally. I did not see how to do that in the files posted above. When I go into the 9 and 117 point convergence menu everything is white, does that mean there is nothing to adjust there?

I'm thinking of having a pro come in at some point, if I do that and spend a couple of hundred dollars, will he have to come back again in a year?


If it looks good to you dont worry about tweaking everything. Personally all Ive done is the most simple of service menu tweaks to mine. Changed colorg to 01 to fix the red push and changed statg2 to 00 to tame the overly bright whites. These were the only tweaks I found that truly needed to be done. IMO of course. Besides that all other adjustments were made in the regular video menu.

My overscan seems fine. Nothing is ever cut off in the corners. So I dont worry about that eventhough I know I could reduce it more, but why ? It looks great now.

117pt con. Yes you want the blue and red lines to hide behind the white lines as clean and tight as you can get them. Note. Blue will always be fuzzy. Thats on purpose.

Im sure I could go all out like some people have , but I really am satisfied the way this set looks pretty much out the box. And I currently have no issues I want to correct. At some point I will get a pro calibration just to see how good this thing really can get. But Im in no hurry.


How do you have your cable box set to output ? You mention 720p with ESPN. Your cable box should be set to output all HD material to 1080i. This should help, but ESPN is a nototiously bad HD station.
Chitown1211 is offline  
post #17 of 4829 Old 01-29-2007, 02:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Tex-amp's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,078
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chitown1211 View Post

If it looks good to you dont worry about tweaking everything. Personally all Ive done is the most simple of service menu tweaks to mine. Changed colorg to 01 to fix the red push and changed statg2 to 00 to tame the overly bright whites. These were the only tweaks I found that truly needed to be done. IMO of course. Besides that all other adjustments were made in the regular video menu.

I had done the colorg to 01 change but after reading this I did the statg2 to 00(factory setting was 03) and re-did the Avia adjustments in the regular menu. It is outstanding to me from just those things. Now I'm going back and forth as to whether or not to get it calibrated. Part of me says it can't get much better and another part says if just those few adjustments made that big of a difference how good is it going to be with a calibration?

Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined. ~ Henry David Thoreau
Tex-amp is offline  
post #18 of 4829 Old 01-31-2007, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavery View Post

Here is my little contribution to the site. I've created these screen jigs based on the specs in the service manual.

You should be able to get them printed at any reputable print shop. I've sourced a shop locally that can do it rather inexpensively.

One thing to make sure is that they do not scale the documant at all. If they do, the template will not work. If you have any suggestion or requests for changes, let me know.

As a note, I am considering getting these printed and mailing them out as a service for those of you who don't want to get them printed yourselves. If you are interested, PM me and I can get accurate pricing.

Enjoy.


Just a heads-up to those who are contemplating getting cavery's cool screen jig pdf's printed themselves---

I recently inquired with my local FedEx/Kinko's about getting a jig made for my 51". Don't know if this is the case chain-wide, but locally, Kinko's does not have transparent mylar rolls for their AutoCAD machines. They do have vellum paper rolls. Vellum is fairly translucent, but not transparent. Kinko's gave me a small piece of vellum which I took home and placed on my screen while in DCAM mode (w/ green isolated). When placed firmly on screen, the green lines shine thru very well. Looks that vellum will work fine, although mylar would sill be the #1 choice if available.

Just download the appropriate size jig from cavery's link, burn it to cd-rom and take to your local shop. A 51" vellum is going to run me around 30 bucks US.

The Canadian (I believe) on-line source for screen jigs that Lee Bailey found a while back has the option of either vellum or mylar--with vellum a bit less $$.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #19 of 4829 Old 01-31-2007, 12:53 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
The following is from a PM conversation I've been having w/ cavery this week regarding his screen jigs. For those who are considering getting/using a jig and have either tweaked/plan to tweak their set's overscan, you should read this:

I have to warn you. If you use this template, your overscan will change. The geometry and the overscan pots are connected. By that I mean if you line up the geometry based on the jig and then adjust the overscan pots, you are changing the size of the DCAM grid. Therefore, if you make any changes to the pots after convergence, your grid won't match the template anymore.

On the other side of that, if you then went in and re-matched the grid to your jig, your overscan would go back to where it was before you adjusted the pots which would definitely stress the convergence IC's.

Hitachi's official grid dimensions will give you about 5 - 5.5% left/right and about 3.5 - 4% top/bottom.

jwebb1970 add-on (seems like an acceptable overscan amount to me, btw)

Because of that, here is how I would approach it.

1. Set overscan pots to factory specs (this ensures that your overscan voltage is within the recommended limits. If you have already adjusted your pots and skip this part, there is a definite chance that you might stress and shorten the life of your convergance IC's)

To do this you need to turn on the TV, press the blue service button and the MUTE button on the remote at the same time.

This will bring up the overscan measurement screen. What you are concerned about here are the green lines. You'll need to measure them horizontally and vertically.

Horizontally, you need to measure the lines from end to end and adjust the pot. When the pot is set correctly the length should be:

51" = 1070mm +/- 5mm is ok or 42"
57" = 1195mm +/- 5mm is ok or 47"
65" = 1365mm +/- 5mm is ok or 53.75"

edit: for those w/o metric measuring tape--or just abhor the metric system, inches conversion are also listed (rounded within the +/-5mm tolerance per the service manual)

For the Vertical adjustment you need to measure the vertical distance of the two lines from each other at thier closest point. Both lines curve towards each other. Measure it at the closest point (should be near the center). When adjusted properly it should measure:

51" = 560mm +/- 5mm is ok or 22"
57" = 625mm +/- 5mm is ok or 24.5"
65" = 710mm +/- 5mm is ok or 28"

Again, this procedure puts your overscan voltage back into the factory recommended range.

Once that is done, you are ready to do the convergence/geometry adjustment.

2.Start by clearing the DCAM data (hold the blue service button while you power on the tv).

This will bring up the DCAM grid in it's totally uncorrected state (all curved lines). From here start by lining the green up to the grid using raster, 3x3, 7x5, 13x9, etc. Then do red and blue.

jwebb1970 add-on #2 (The service manual suggests that once green is lined up to the jig, you should write that data to ROM. This will lock in green geometry to memory. After that, you can remove the jig from the screen and then continue with lining up red/blue using the same order of operation--raster, 3x3, etc---then writing THAT all to ROM and reinitializing Magic Focus. This step is not actually necessary, but if something were to happen --power loss, accidental unplugging, etc.---during red/blue lineup, you'd still have the corrected green in memory. More of a time-saving insurance policy should something go bad)


It took me about an hour to an hour and a half to finish.

jwebb1970add-on #3 (Same here-green will eat up most of the time, it seems)

From here, if you want to adjust overscan further, you will have to go back in and adjust the pots. If you do do this, you will change the size of the DCAM grid and it will no longer match the screen jig. If you keep your adjustments small, it shouldn't change the actual geometry, but you will have to re-align red and blue.

Hopefully this helps and is easy to follow. Again, if you have any more questions drop me a line.

Cheers,
Cory




This same info is found in the F59 service manual, just put into a bit more understandable language courtesy of cavery (Cory). I strongly recommend having the service manual on hand prior to attempting this. If for no other reason, you will have pictures of what the overscan screen (called horizontal/vertical size adj screen in the SM) and uncorrected DCAM grid look like if you have never seen them before.

Of course, if you have the 20+ yrs of calibration experience someone like Mr Bob-for example-has, you can just eyeball all of this w/o the use of any screen jig.

My Jedi powers are nowhere near those of Bob, unfortunately. Doubt most brave (or foolhardy) AVS FORUM DIY'ers visual acuity is, either.

So, I'll be "doin' a jig".

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #20 of 4829 Old 01-31-2007, 03:04 PM
AVS Special Member
 
ssj2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,520
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Good info jwebb1970. Thanks.

Steve
ssj2 is offline  
post #21 of 4829 Old 01-31-2007, 03:53 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Lee Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Central California,USA
Posts: 1,817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tex-amp View Post

I had done the colorg to 01 change but after reading this I did the statg2 to 00(factory setting was 03) and re-did the Avia adjustments in the regular menu. It is outstanding to me from just those things. Now I'm going back and forth as to whether or not to get it calibrated. Part of me says it can't get much better and another part says if just those few adjustments made that big of a difference how good is it going to be with a calibration?


What's left is actually setting up the grayscale on the set to accurately track across the scale from 0% to 100% brightness. This will be quite noticable when it has been completed. If you don't have the equipment/experience, you'll have to find a competent calibration person. Depends on what you're happy with as well.
Lee Bailey is offline  
post #22 of 4829 Old 02-01-2007, 07:20 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Got cavery's 51" jig @ Kinko's yesterday. On vellum, it actually ran about $18.00 after tax.

Put it up on screen last night. Vellum WILL work just fine for this jig--although mylar would be better. Did the overscan "reset" then re-did convergence (with uncorrected DCAM). Geometry is now super-solid and the factory overscan levels are totaly acceptable to me. Slight cutoff of the ABC HD and MHD screen bugs, but if that's all the picture I'm losing--so be it. I'll take that over geometry "speedbumps" any day. No more pincushioning effect of the edges. Also had to tweak the horizontal position a tad in the service menu, just to get everything centered-both for 16x9/HD and 4:3/gray bars.

Now to just get the blue gun "smudge" fixed......then I'll finally be 100% (or close) satisfied!

Thanks again to cavery for both the jig downloads and his help via PM to me.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #23 of 4829 Old 02-01-2007, 12:20 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Lee Bailey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2000
Location: Central California,USA
Posts: 1,817
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

Will I need to go through and make all those adjustments in the DIY guide when I first get my set?.

You should make all the adjustments in the user menus for video setting when you first turn on your TV, IMO.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

Does the magic focus actually work?.

It does work, but it does not perform as well as the 117pt manual adjustment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

Do those setting work for HD,SD and regular channels?.

So far, yes they do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

Should I use those settings with the Lee Bailey setting from the big thread?.

It's a good starting point.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

Will I be constantly tweaking this TV? .

It depends on how picky you are about how your picture looks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SPACEMAKER View Post

As someone getting ready to purchase their first HD set I find all this info a bit intimidating. I am used to plugging everything in a making a few sound and picture tweaks.

I realize I am asking a lot of questions here but I just want to do things the right way and get the best pq I possibly can out of this set.

Thanks to all of you who are so helpful. A site like this is dream come true for someone who is unfamiliar with all of the technical aspects of these sets.

If you find this all too intimidating, then I would suggest you go for an LCD, DLP, LCOS, SXRD, or PLASMA TV. Though for the price, you probably won't get this low for a 57" set in the newer technologies. Even those do not have calibrated color out of the box.
Lee Bailey is offline  
post #24 of 4829 Old 02-01-2007, 12:42 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
SPACEMAKER....I'd think that , outside of an occasional convergence touchup, you wouldn't really need to do much tweaking at all once you got the basic service menu tweaks done (or got it calibrated).

And those ocasional convergence touchups could just be done from the "Magic Focus" user menu--i.e. 9 and /or 117-pt manual.

Although it would be preferrable (for future drift as well as the potential health of the convergence ICs) to do touchups in DCAM mode, so that they are written to ROM.

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #25 of 4829 Old 02-02-2007, 11:48 AM
Member
 
kane100574's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
More of a mod then a tweak.. but cost affective and it works...

After looking ALL over the net... I came up with my own "protective screen" solution. I and my wife only watch TV at night our living room can become fairly dark during the day if we want it to be. But the little kids are the only ones that have the TV on during the day for sponge bob ect...

I measured the front of my 65f59A TO OUTER EDGES! Called up VOS glass. Said i want a piece of 3/16 polycarbonate cut to these dimensions with the edges sanded a little.
$103.00

Went to Jo anns fabrics. Baught some velcro dots. (OR VERY SMALL STRIPS)
4 for each corner 3 in the middle and sides. 4.00

Presto. polycarbonate protective glass that is scratch "resistant" just as easy to clean as your screen AND removeable when you want it down! just be careful taking it off. Takes two people here. At night or when it's dark it's 100% invisable. During the day it can catch one hell of a glare! but your screen is SAFE FROM KIDS!!! no coloring...hitting with toys.. oily fingerprints.. I have owned my TV less then two weeks and have had to clean the polycarbonate glass 6 or 7 times and only my main screen once.... kids WILL and DO touch the big pretty screen....

EDIT!! Acrylic scratches easier then polycarbonate FYI
kane100574 is offline  
post #26 of 4829 Old 02-02-2007, 07:18 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
jwebb1970's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 8,337
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 35
Stop your grinnin' and drop your linen....the "official" F59 HDMI Fix is here. And you can do it yourself!!!!!

Late this afternoon, I managed to get ahold of the official "Service Bulletin"--dated Jan '07--that Hitachi has recently circulated to all Authorized Service Centers. The particular source of the bulletin asked to remain anonymous, so don't ask where I got it....'cause I ain't talkin'! Just take and apply the following info and then enjoy whatever HDMI gear you've got without any more "freakouts".

This is a Service Menu adjustment that you can do yourself, so no need to wait on a tech to come and do it for you. Although Hitachi likely would rather a tech do it, I figure this saves 'em a few bucks in warranty service calls.

The intro of the bulletin states:

"Strange symptoms like TV shuts down, Tint Shifted, All Red or Pink picture, Sync loss, etc when using HDMI output from some Set Top Boxes. Ususally starts after warm-up period of 1/2 hour. May be temporarily corrected by AC reset or turning the TV Off and ON".

Sound familiar?

"Countermeasure: Make the following change to the I2C Service Menu."

Here's what to do.

1. Turn on TV (duh) and receive any signal.

2. Access service menu (hold down MENU button on front of set and press MENU, then 8, then SELECT on remote.

3. First page of sm appears. "ADJUST MODE DP6X" followed by SERVICE, SUB BRIGHT, etc. Scroll down thru settings list (or press MENU on remote twice) until the sm list that contains the parameter E2PROM appears. Highlight E2PROM and press SELECT.

4. E2PROM list appears. There will be a list of "ADDRESS"-es on the left (each ADDRESS will say A* and then 2 letters and or numbers. To the right of each ADDRESS will be a 2 digit DATA setting. These are what will be altered.

5. You will need to change most of these ADDRESS DATA parameters. Each one and what they are to change to will be listed below. What you are doing will change your set's software--this isn't a firmware fix.

Remember, after selecting and changing each of these, you MUST press SELECT on your remote before moving to the next ADDRESS. This puts the changes in memory. The list (including original and new settings) are:



ADDRESS DATA (Original/New)

0*A00 FF / 00
0*A01 FF / 13
0*A02 FF / 00
0*A03 FF / C3
0*A04 00 / 00 (no change)
0*A05 00 / 0C
0*A06 00 / 89
0*A07 00 / 9C
0*A08 00 / 00 (no change)
0*A09 00 / 0C
0*A0A 00 / 89
0*A0B 00 / 9D
0*A0C 00 / 05
0*A0D 00 / 68
0*A0E 00 / FC
0*A0F 00 / 9F
0*A10 00 / 89
0*A11 00 / 0C
0*A12 00 / 30

Again, make sure to press SELECT on the remote after each change!!!

6. Once you're done, exit the Service Menu and turn off TV. Unplug the set's AC from the wall/powerstrip/whatever for 5 SECONDS. Then, plug back in and turn TV back on.

7. Re-enter the Service Menu. Now you need to confirm that the fix has stuck. When you first enter the SM, where it says SERVICE/SUB BRIGHT, etc, there should be a code to the right of the ADJUST MODE DP6X. Prior to the fix, it should have said "V019" (white). If the fix took, it should now say "V195" (magenta).

If done properly, it should stick. You can now exit the SM and proceed to watch your HDMI-delivered video in all it's 100% digital glory.

You can all thank me (and my "source") later.

Money always works

Money does not buy happiness. It can, however, buy you a giant boat that you can pull up alongside happiness. - David Lee Roth

jwebb1970 is offline  
post #27 of 4829 Old 02-02-2007, 09:43 PM
Member
 
jeremy566's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 137
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
thank you so much jwebb1970 and your sources it worked good it took about 10 min say its easy to do but a lot of clicking to do make sure you check all settings before you exit i was close to exit and i forgot to press select on one and caught it right before.



p.s. would this change the brightness or anything like that
jeremy566 is offline  
post #28 of 4829 Old 02-03-2007, 05:39 AM
Member
 
badbird94's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: East Texas
Posts: 79
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
jwebb1970-------EXCELLENT
badbird94 is offline  
post #29 of 4829 Old 02-03-2007, 08:48 AM
Senior Member
 
vstream's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Francisco bay area
Posts: 289
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Nice job, jwebb1970!
vstream is offline  
post #30 of 4829 Old 02-03-2007, 08:55 AM
Member
 
jeremy566's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 137
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
i love the internet


p.s. who are your source
jeremy566 is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

Tags
Hitachi

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off