2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 108 - AVS Forum
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post #3211 of 14903 Old 06-12-2007, 08:51 PM
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Service Manual Review HL-T5689S - part 2

Interesting (to me) Technical Facts

The set uses a 500 MHz MIPS processor that includes considerable additional functions, as part of the two chip set. Functions include the HD MPEG decoding, audio DSP, memory controller, 2D/3D graphics engine, transport processor, etc.

The display Blue and Red LEDs have a peak-current of 30 amps, while the Green LED is 28.5 amps (perhaps green is more efficient)? This compares with indicator LEDs that typically take 20 mA. This means the display LEDs are running at 1500 times the amperage that we normally think of LEDs working at! Of course the display LEDs is being pulsed so they have a much lower average power usage - still quite impressive.

Each display LED is attached to it's own heat pipe that connects to a large radiator. A fan fan blows across the three radiators to keep them cool. Looks a bit like 3 CPU coolers. The LEDs appear to be individually replaceable, should one go bad, but the manual only shows a single part number for the LED assembly, so you may have to buy it all if it goes bad or go to the source and try and buy one. It may be these are a matched set to get better color accuracy, although you'd think the adjustments would take care of any minor variations.

Specifications Analysis

I'm not quite sure why, but they include a comparison between the 5078W, 5668W and the 5689S sets on one page. The first two are bulb (color wheel) type sets. Most of these are the same specs on the Web and in the user manual. A few I haven't seen before between the more comparable 5678W and my 5689S include:

Brightness (same for both): 600 cd/m*m (i.e. m*m = meter squared) - this is interesting that they consider the LEDs as bright as the bulb set.

Image Enhancer: 78W: DNIe4, 89S:FBEx (no idea what FBEx stands for since they just call it DNIe in the user manual)

DMD: 78W: xHD3, 89S: xHD5

Micro Mirror Display and Wobulation

I spent maybe 40 minutes trying to find more about the xHD5 DMD chips from the TI site (makers of the DMD chip). There are no useful references for xHD5, and I wasn't able to locate the latest chip data sheets. The Service manual also identifies the DMD chip as IC900-1, PL22323-1640-01F, but the PL number is just a part number for the DMD socket. I haven't seen an actual TI part number for the DMD chip.

It's like TI and Samsung don't want users to know the details. Anyway, we all know these are 1080x960 chips using wobulation to get 1080p. Some users put the 1080p and 120Hz refresh together, but I think it would be more appropriate to call these sets a 1080p 60Hz set OR a 1080i 120Hz set (i.e. it's really interlaced, but at 120Hz). It's also the reason Samsung does not convert 1080p 24Hz to a five-frame 120Hz, but still has to use a 3:2 pull down to get to 60Hz. Some LCD sets are now doing a conversion to 120Hz, but it's a real 1080p 120Hz.

From the service manual, it is clear they use Wobulation, but it's termed as an Actuator. Nowhere does it really explain this, but there is a gain adjustment calibration for the Actuator. The instructions (p3-18) are not all that clear, and it's not something I'm willing to try on my set. I suspect this more of an alignment adjustment than gain, but who knows.

Color Sensor

There is a Color Sensor board which is not explained. The one small photo looks like it has one small IC or the sensor on it. This may be a device to automatically tweak the color. I couldn't locate the actual schematic to the board, but where it connects into the DMD board, it has 3 separate lines marked RGB (Red Green, Blue). I suspect this may be used to automatically adjust the color as the LED ages? It might explain the color flashes and/or gray that occasionally occurs during the power up sequence.

continued in part 3
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post #3212 of 14903 Old 06-12-2007, 08:57 PM
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Service Mode and Factory Data

As I stated in an old post several weeks ago, going into service mode resets all your settings for all inputs. Rather annoying if you just want to look around, but reasonable if you're about to change the calibration data (so the starting point is the same for all sets).

It's been stated before, but to go into service mode, with the power off, press on the remote Mute - 1 - 8 - 2 - Power in sequence. To exit SM, power off. There are also direct remote codes to do this that doesn't require power on/off for the Pronto Remote and maybe others. See www.remotecentral.com or search this forum for Service mode Pronto.

Service Mode Items

The explanation of items for service mode entries is poor at best. It does explain the range of each item and the default value which is nice. I'd estimate less than 20% of the items are explained, and the Item name is often cryptic to begin with. I don't have any more knowledge about the safety of modifying these items and/or what the effect will be for sure. If you're inclined to modify these, I'd get the service manual first and jot down any existing settings in case they differ from the manual. I counted about 621 settings! Here's a few of the interesting options I see, although most are not that useful other than doing an IFS calibration.

Mute time: 0-1000 ms - Time which the screen will be black while switching - default 600ms. Doesn't say what type of switching, perhaps inputs?

V-Flip - Flip/Normal can flip the vertical - perhaps so you can mount it upside down?

H-Flip - Flip/Normal flip the horizontal direction.

Test Pattern (DDP) - 1-18 - Display built in patterns to validate there are no errors in the DMD chip.

Sensor Status - OK/NG - default OK. Text states Color Sensor value save. Hard to figure out what this means or does. I assume NG=No good.

Actu On/Off - Default On - I suspect this turns off wobulation (called Actuator), perhaps to make it easier to see defects with DMD?

SHARPNESS_FILTER - 0-100, default 60. No description as to what it controls.

Audio Delay - 0-0xFFFF, default 0. I expect this delay is within the set only. If you have an audio delay problem, it's likely due to using external audio when the video path has extra delays in it. I don't see this option fixing it. A new HDMI 1.3 receiver is likely the best answer that can coordinate the audio delay with the video. On my set/receiver the sound appears in sync with the video.

Pattern Select - PCI-1~14 - Doesn't say anything else, but perhaps it also puts up test patterns. There is no default value.

Calibration and Service Adjustments

Here the manual is quite weak. We get all of 4 sparse pages on how to adjust the set. It includes position, CCA (Color Coordinate Adjustment) adjustment methods (which is close to useless), and the Actuator (wobulation) gain adjustment. I'd say the IFS guys get their money worth as the manual isn't much help in doing a calibration.

There are also 5 pages of mechanical adjustments for screen tilt; focus and Illumination adjustment (out of adjustment shows a slight shadow on two sides of the screen, about 5% or less from the edges). Test patterns can be generated by the set for these adjustments.

To alter the mechanical adjustments requires removal of the back panel, and use of a large mirror to see the adjustment effect. Insulated gloves are recommended as you have to reach into the live set to make the adjustments.

Enjoy!
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post #3213 of 14903 Old 06-12-2007, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubgrub View Post

I think I may have a problem with my 6187S. In dark scenes I see a what kind of looks like a long stretched cloud of light in the middle of the screen. It has a slight red tint to it in some areas. I took a picture of the problem while watching a dark scene of Madagascar.



I plan to call samsung for service but wanted to hear if any of you can diagnosis the problem. I believe this is definately an issue with the tv because I see it when I play DVD's on my oppo as well as on cable. Anybody know what this is???

I had the same problem with my samsung 61 Led DLP which I purchased a week ago.
I had twenty black dots at the top and bottom of my picture. Bestbuy replaced it with a new one two days later and this one looked perfect. The BestBuy delivery person said that he had pickup quite a few Samsungs that customers had expierienced "dots' on the screen and other anomalies.
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post #3214 of 14903 Old 06-12-2007, 09:29 PM
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so is the 61" worth paying 1000 more for over the 56"?
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post #3215 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcor View Post

After owning a 5689S since late May, I ordered the service manual a week ago, as I usually find them interesting reading. I'm not sure this is for everyone, but some may find this interesting......

Wow, thanks! That was VERY interesting reading. Thanks for taking the time to write that up.
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post #3216 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vcor View Post

Service Mode and Factory Data



There are also 5 pages of mechanical adjustments for screen tilt; focus and Illumination adjustment (out of adjustment shows a slight shadow on two sides of the screen, about 5% or less from the edges). Test patterns can be generated by the set for these adjustments.

To alter the mechanical adjustments requires removal of the back panel, and use of a large mirror to see the adjustment effect. Insulated gloves are recommended as you have to reach into the live set to make the adjustments.

Enjoy!

That is AWESOME information. I noticed that on the left side of my display in a test pattern, the image is a bit blurry. When going into the crosshatch pattern or the vertical line pattern, the the red is 1 pixel off the line, yet on the right side, all three colors line up perfectly. I'm assuming that adjustment can fix this? Can you adjust red/green/blue on one side but not the other?
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post #3217 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 01:09 PM
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I've been doin some research for my sister who is a first time HDTV buyer and wanted a 50" screen with a $2000 budget (or less if possible). So naturally I have steered her towards the HL-T5087S. She was sold and set to buy it at a nice price from Amazon, but upon talking to salesman at hhgregg she is a little worried now.

Apparently he told her that the LED DLPs were "dark" and tried to steer her towards a plasma (which aren't always the brightest on the block anyways). Is there any truth to this? Because her living room where the TV will go is fairly bright during the day.

I told her the salesman at hhgregg was probably not very knowledgable, but I can't say for sure since I have never seen these new LED DLPs in person.
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post #3218 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarcSparks View Post

I've been doin some research for my sister who is a first time HDTV buyer and wanted a 50" screen with a $2000 budget (or less if possible). So naturally I have steered her towards the HL-T5087S. She was sold and set to buy it at a nice price from Amazon, but upon talking to salesman at hhgregg she is a little worried now.

Apparently he told her that the LED DLPs were "dark" and tried to steer her towards a plasma (which aren't always the brightest on the block anyways). Is there any truth to this? Because her living room where the TV will go is fairly bright during the day.

I told her the salesman at hhgregg was probably not very knowledgable, but I can't say for sure since I have never seen these new LED DLPs in person.

For ~2G she will get a larger screen and 1080p with DLP. If she goes with plasma she will probably have to go 720p or smaller size in order to fit her budget.

For the money she will save going with DLP she can afford to buy thicker curtains or blinds to darken the room if the TV is not bright enough.

I have no problems viewing mine during the day and I have a double sliding glass door about 6 feet from it. Of course it does looks brighter and more vibrant at night with no light but the trade off vs cost favors DLP.

I would suspect the store makes more profit on the plasma or the salesperson makes a higher commission.
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post #3219 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 02:08 PM
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If the room is bright during the day, watch out for reflections. Plasma tends to be like a mirror as opposed to the more diffuse reflection you get off an RPTV.
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post #3220 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 02:23 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Those were my feelings exactly. I knew some plasmas could be an issue in a bright room, but thought DLPs were better for that.

And she liked the idea of the LED without having to worry about bulb replacement. So I really just wanted to know how the brightness compares to the non-LED DLPs?
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post #3221 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 02:28 PM
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Marcsparks, I have a family room with a 6 ft slider, windows on each side of the fireplace and two large windows on the other side. The HLT5687 has all the brightness to compensate for this many windows. My slider faces West and lets in a lot of light. GJN

gjn
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post #3222 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 06:18 PM
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Quote:


That is AWESOME information. I noticed that on the left side of my display in a test pattern, the image is a bit blurry. When going into the crosshatch pattern or the vertical line pattern, the the red is 1 pixel off the line, yet on the right side, all three colors line up perfectly. I'm assuming that adjustment can fix this? Can you adjust red/green/blue on one side but not the other?

I didn't see any mechanical or electronic adjustments for a convergence type issue like you describe although I did see some tilt (mechanical and electrical) adjustments that might contol this, but I doubt it. I do notice some color fringing on the entire screen when I have my glasses turned a bit, but when looking dead on it looks fine on my set.

Of course with 621 electronic adjustments, perhaps the Samsung techs know where to look and adjust! So many of these adjustments are hard to figure what they control or do.

Here's a few examples "THC", "HC_R", "Vsb_Ptl_Step", "VLUT"! There is no description as to what they do nor any reference in the rest of the manual to most of the items. I'd guess that less than 20% have a meaningful name that you can guess what it does. For example "Max Current RED" likely controls the peak brightness of the red LED and I expect this control shouldn't be increased without risking damage to the LED.

I guess the key is does this bother you when watching a real program. If you can't notice it then, I'd likely let it go. I always worry a bit at attempting to fix a minor issue creates a more annoying one, even if you have a tech try and fix it.
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post #3223 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 06:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim Hess View Post

So which is it? It looks like garbage or the exact same (post caibration)?

Well, to me it looks the same, but with even better black levels and no reduced detail in dark scenes, so for me... it actually looks better(slightly). In other words, as long as you didn't use "Detailed Settings" in your initial calibration, then it will look the exact same as a "non game-mode" cal'd setting. Good luck.
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post #3224 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 11:46 PM
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is the HL-T6187 going to be as good as the HL-5679 and non led HL-S6767 for use with the xbox360 using vga and/or component with premium 360 and hdmi with elite?

what is the best price for HL-T6187. Best Buy is having fathers day sale but even with 12% off their price, its still higher then amazon and others online.
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post #3225 of 14903 Old 06-13-2007, 11:56 PM
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I've had this new set for about 2 months now and have a new problem. Last week one of the times I turned it on, the sound didn't come on at all. Mute didn't work... nothin. I turned the set off and back on again and it worked just fine. I figured it was a fluke... but today when I turned it on there was massive static about 3x louder than the normal sound.

Anyone else experience similar audio problems? Makes me damn glad I've got the 4 year extended warranty with this thing. heh.
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post #3226 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 07:18 AM
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OK i understand LED's last longer then bulb based DLP's, but if most TV's are waranteed for a year which most of us use because we don't spend the $ for the extension. Then think about this. Your LED goes down in 3 years and now you need to replace the whole light engine. BIG BUCKS. In 3 years you need to change the Bulb on your regular DLP. $139.00. In this instance the fact that LED's last longer is null and void. LED's are the best option as long as when the warrantee is up it doesn't fail.
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post #3227 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fernalfer View Post

OK i understand LED's last longer then bulb based DLP's, but if most TV's are waranteed for a year which most of us use because we don't spend the $ for the extension. Then think about this. Your LED goes down in 3 years and now you need to replace the whole light engine. BIG BUCKS. In 3 years you need to change the Bulb on your regular DLP. $139.00. In this instance the fact that LED's last longer is null and void. LED's are the best option as long as when the warrantee is up it doesn't fail.

Panasonic is coming out with their LIFI system that is supposed to provide a light source that last the life of the set.

They warranty the lamp system for 5 years.

Probably a good thing with a new technology.
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post #3228 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aydu View Post

Panasonic is coming out with their LIFI system that is supposed to provide a light source that last the life of the set.

They warranty the lamp system for 5 years.

Probably a good thing with a new technology.


Ya and it's contrast ratio is a lame 3000:1, more new unproven tech just like these LED sets from Sammy. Too risky too many problems, it's half-baked.

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post #3229 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 03:36 PM
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I ordered my 6187S from Amazon on the 24th of May, it was delivered on the 1st of June.

I can't be happier with the set. The picture is amazing. I've not experienced any green push, buzzing or popping or smudges. The picture quality is simply spectacular, and that's right out of the box. I've not done much with the calibration DVD's or settings that have been posted here, but so far I'm quite happy with the OOTB settings.

Once the Eliab 2007 settings are posted I'll try those out to see how they look.

Overall I'm incredibly happy with my 6187S.
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post #3230 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Gibbsman View Post

Once the Eliab 2007 settings are posted I'll try those out to see how they look.

It's been some time since the last post by eliab. I assume they're very busy and we won't be seeing it for awhile, if at all.
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post #3231 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagaden View Post

It's been some time since the last post by eliab. I assume they're very busy and we won't be seeing it for awhile, if at all.

Eliab posted that he is waiting for Samsung to repair his HL-T5089. He can't report until sometime after the repair is done.
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post #3232 of 14903 Old 06-14-2007, 10:17 PM
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I bought an HLT5087s two weeks ago. Bright and colorful is how I describe it. The more I watch it the more I know I made the right decision. Beautiful! As others on this board have stated you really need to see it at home. The picture I get off my Cox Cable blows away the picture that was shown on this model at my local UE. Clear and Sharp. I did get some initial faint green push when using the movie mode but that burned off after about 10 minutes of use and have never seen it since. Also sound is much better, both louder and more powerfuil, if you do not use the SRS surround sound effect. Without the SRS, sound quality is very good IMHO.

On the Phlatlight site it states that the LED's are good for up to 60,000 hours. Samsung is stating for the life of the TV. I think these Phlatlight LEDs may be more promising than what Samsung is warranting. Life of TV, What is that anyway? Somewhere between 20000 and 60000 sounds pretty good to me though. 60,000 is mind boggling. I predict Samsung's use of bulb and color wheel is coming to an end.
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post #3233 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 09:37 AM
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I've had the 6187S for about two weeks now, figured I'd share my experience so far. Ordered off of Amazon with white glove shipping via Eagle. Didn't have any problems with the delivery, they called to make sure I was home before they came by with the TV. Once they got it inside, they let me do a quick checkout to make sure everything was in order. I had ordered the TR50X3B, but unfortunately it arrived on the 7th day of the 2nd day shipping (cough,DHL,cough), so I had to place it carefully on a stand meant for a 27" CRT. I have the stand now, and it's better looking than I had expected. Wasn't too difficult to assemble, though the glass bows quite a bit if you have anything close to heavy on it.

My initial impression of the picture quality was awe. It looked incredible with XBOX 360 over VGA @ 1080p. Gears of War, a few downloaded HD movie trailers, and even upconverted original XBOX games look very good. Then I changed over to last year's Eliab settings, and it looked even better. Upconverted DVDs aren't bad looking either on XBOX 360, though I'm sure the Oppo does it better, I can't yet justify $250 for a marginal improvement, especially when HD-DVD would only cost me $200.

I bought DVE, but haven't had a chance yet to do a full calibration, just black levels and colors, partially becaue I've been distracted by HD Cable. Some channels look better than others, so far I've been most impressed by Discovery HD Theater. Planet Earth looks incredible on this TV, it has to be seen to be believed. The box is hooked up via HDMI, and I've only had one handshaking issue so far where I had to power cycle the set.

I didn't have any of the problems mentioned so far: buzzing, bowing, green push, strange smells, popping, fresnel artifacts or reflections. So basically, I've been a real happy camper, until it showed up.

Yes, I see rainbows on this set. Yes, they can be bad at times. Yes, it depends heavily on the source, how close I am to the screen, and how much I move my eyes. I had tested this set out at Best Buy before I got it, and didn't see any, except for when I put in Sin City and moved my eyes rapid-fire across the screen. Unfortunately, I now see them quite often, mostly on standard-def movies. It doesn't seem as bad as what I recall of my very limited experience with wheel-based sets, but it is there. However, as I watch more, I'm now seeing them less, or perhaps just noticing them less. When I sit a reasonable distance away (8 feet or so) and watch HD source material, it's hardly noticeable, so I've decided it isn't enough to make me want to return the set, because the positives definitely outweigh the negatives.

To sum the RBE up, when it's bad it definitely detracts from the picture, but most of the time, it's not enough to bother me.

My only other complaint is that Game Mode isn't very effective on 480i material. Due to reasons I won't go into here, I often play Halo (the original, on XBOX) via composite video, and it's borderline unplayable. I had to wheel out the old CRT. When I use game mode on 480p with the component cables, it's fine, but with 480i, theres at least what i'd estimate to be a 30-40ms delay, no matter what I turn off in the menu. If i'm doing something wrong please let me know.

Also, the colors appear to get washed out in Game Mode. I understand there's minimal processing going on, I expect it to look ugly, and I'm fine with that, but I would think the colors are independent of that. I can never seem to get them anywhere close to how it looks in Movie mode.

On a side note, anyone using XBOX media center to upscale DVDs should try something else, it isn't very good at it. It did admirably upscaling compressed XviD to 1080i, since that's not something I'd burn to disc, but for DVDs even the XBOX 360 over VGA blew it away.


In conclusion, the HL-T6187S has been a great purchase, the picture quality is enviable, and the size for the price is hard to beat. Despite a few minor flaws, I would definitely recommend it to anyone thinking about it. Thanks again to everyone who contributed to this thread, it made the decision a heck of a lot easier.
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post #3234 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 10:13 AM
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Debris removal (**87) -

I had a darkish spot on the screen. Finally I got fed up, popped open access
hatch (single screw) on the left and looked inside. And sure enough there it was,
what looked like a plastic shaving on the mirror. 3 sec job and the spot was gone.

So if you have an annoying spot - peek inside, costs nothing, "they" will never know.
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post #3235 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 10:20 AM
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Got my HL-T6187S a few days ago. It replaced a 50 inch RCA 720P DLP that I used for almost 4 years. Viewing distance is 8-9 feet in basement. No problems with viewing angle, looks good. No geometry problems, straight vertical edges on 4X3 video sources. Noticed no bending of the picture.

PROBLEM-

When looking at white text, I can see red and green on the edges of the white lettering, looks just like a "convergence" problem, except that a single light source DLP cannot have convergence problems. It has to be a problem in the optics causing some colors to be displaced in position on the screen. This is very noticable from my viewing distance of about 9 feet from the 61 inch screen. I see this on all HD sources, even when you use the setup menu and look at the white lettering. For example the yellow STAR WARS title at the start of the movie has red edges on some sides of the all yellow text.

I got the set from local Best Buy and they just brought me another HL-T6187S to fix the problem and it looks almost the same, and is very noticable.

Has anyone else noticed this color error. I will try to take a picture of it using a HDTV crosshatch pattern.

Mike T
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post #3236 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 10:55 AM
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Mike T, I notice the convergence problem as well on my 6187 when i get up close and look at white on black, but I can't really see it from my couch which is about 11 feet away. I'd like to know if there is anything that can be done about it so hopefully someone out there knows.
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post #3237 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 11:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hdspringer98 View Post

Ya and it's contrast ratio is a lame 3000:1, more new unproven tech just like these LED sets from Sammy. Too risky too many problems, it's half-baked.

Contrast ratios are tricky. Different measurements mean different things.

Here is some info Sony puts out on their top of the line BRAVIA sets:

"7000:1. This number represents the widest possible ratio between black and white contrast levels. Sony also measures their BRAVIA televisions with a more stringent method that measures the amount of black and white levels that can appear on the screen at the same time. This method yields a more real world measurement of 1300:1"

So, a "lame" 3000 could be bad, or great, depending on who is measuring, and how.

Manufacturers have typically hyped their specs to the point that they become meaningless, except for people that ignore what their eyes tell them and buy based on specs.
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post #3238 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 11:55 AM
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There seems to be no way to select a channel unless it is already in the channel list and
this list is only generated by performing a complete (time conssuming) scan.
My problem is that my OTA connection scan catches all but one channel which I assume is the result of low signal strength.
Does anyone know of a way to manually enter a channel in the channel list so that I can select it and adjust my antenna via the signal strength indicator?
Perhaps the complete manual has this covered.
By the way, I have had this set (5687S) for only one day and am blown away by the performance even with factory settings so far.
No artifacts, noises etc.
Also the LNA allows me to get all but one local OTA digital channels with an indoor antenna and I am about 35 miles from the transmitters.
I checked out some JPEG's via the USB port and they look great.
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post #3239 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtallent View Post

When looking at white text, I can see red and green on the edges of the white lettering, looks just like a "convergence" problem, except that a single light source DLP cannot have convergence problems. It has to be a problem in the optics causing some colors to be displaced in position on the screen. This is very noticable from my viewing distance of about 9 feet from the 61 inch screen. I see this on all HD sources, even when you use the setup menu and look at the white lettering. For example the yellow STAR WARS title at the start of the movie has red edges on some sides of the all yellow text.

I got the set from local Best Buy and they just brought me another HL-T6187S to fix the problem and it looks almost the same, and is very noticable.

Has anyone else noticed this color error. I will try to take a picture of it using a HDTV crosshatch pattern.

Mike T

I sure as hell noticed it the first time I saw one of these sets. It was a deal-breaker for me because all of the LED DLP sets I looked at had this fault. Some people on this thread have blamed it on the viewer wearing plastic lens glasses as I do. I guess if you wear glasses, this is not the set for you . I was real disappointed because I was waiting for these sets to get there.

Snuffy
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post #3240 of 14903 Old 06-15-2007, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kagaden View Post

I've had this new set for about 2 months now and have a new problem. Last week one of the times I turned it on, the sound didn't come on at all. Mute didn't work... nothin. I turned the set off and back on again and it worked just fine. I figured it was a fluke... but today when I turned it on there was massive static about 3x louder than the normal sound.

Anyone else experience similar audio problems? Makes me damn glad I've got the 4 year extended warranty with this thing. heh.

Actually, mine does this a few times a week. I just turn it back off, wait for the blue light to go completely off and turn it back on. I do consider it a problem - just not one that I'm terribly worried about. Maybe I should be?
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