2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 425 - AVS Forum
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post #12721 of 14886 Old 11-07-2008, 01:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willndmb View Post

hi guys
having 2 problems as of recent
1st i have 2 sometimes 3 blueish/purple spots in the lower center of the screen that form a triangle shape
the main point is closest to the bottom
they show up on dark pictures or backgrounds

2nd the screen is off centered everything is moved right by 1-2 inches
so down the left side is a big black bar and the right side is cut off the screen

thanks for any input, searching here is hard for me to narrow anything down

I believe you are having an issue referred to as the "Halo" problem. Search this thread for "halo", and you will probably see photos and resolutions. I believe people had to get Samsung to replace a part that was shiney instead of a matte black around the lens assembly.
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post #12722 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 07:04 AM
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Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Nice.. this is encouraging as it arrives in 1 day

So do you prefer 24p over 60?

It will depend on which of your devices, BD player or Sammy does a better job of 3:2 pull-down. The Sammy can accept a 24 fps input (and the input is what is displayed with the INFO buton, not what the display is OUTPUTTING), but everything is output at 1080p @ 60 fps. The HLTs take a 24 fps and do a 3:2 pulldown and output at 60 fps. Compare that to setting your BluRay device to output at 60 Hz, letting it do the pulldown.
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post #12723 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by dloose View Post

It will depend on which of your devices, BD player or Sammy does a better job of 3:2 pull-down. The Sammy can accept a 24 fps input (and the input is what is displayed with the INFO buton, not what the display is OUTPUTTING), but everything is output at 1080p @ 60 fps. The HLTs take a 24 fps and do a 3:2 pulldown and output at 60 fps. Compare that to setting your BluRay device to output at 60 Hz, letting it do the pulldown.

I had forgotten that the display info is the output only..

I guess in theory, having the player at 60 or 24 shouldnt make a difference even in fast moving scenes?

Has anyone found a good scene to compare and found one way or the other, the answer..

Since i first asked this, i did try 24hz, i really couldnt see a difference honestly (both htpc pc at 24hz and bluray player at 24p, then back to 60 on each).

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post #12724 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MLXXXp View Post

I have my Harmony 880 properly selecting inputs on my HL-T5687 but it's a bit tricky to set up. This TV has discrete commands for the inputs but they don't always match the Harmony names and there doesn't seem to be one that works properly for HDMI3.

For HDMI1 you need to use InputHDMI2V2. For HDMI2 you use InputHDMI2V3. Since you can't select HDMI3 directly, you need to first select HDMI2 and then cycle forward to HDMI3. It turns out that to cycle forward you use InputHDMI1. I think most of the other inputs map properly to their similar Harmony names but you may have to experiment a little.

I have my 880 set up with activities that need to select Antenna, AV1, Component1, HDMI1, HDMI2 and HDMI3. Here's how I did it using the Harmony setup program:

- Select the "Devices" tab and then press the "Settings" button for your TV.

- Select "Adjust inputs" and click on "Next >"

- For "How do you change inputs ... ?" select "Method 4" (for Toshiba TVs, etc.) and click on "Next >". (Note that if you don't need HDMI3 then you should be able to select "Method 2" and use the Harmony codes that I described above for HDMI1 and HDMI2, along with the other discreet codes for the other inputs. Ignore the rest of my post, in this case, and just follow the Harmony instructions.)

- Review and change inputs if necessary, as described. Set up only the inputs that you need, name them what you want, and delete the rest. Click on "Next >".

- For "Remote button displays source inputs menu" select InputHDMI2v3. (This will set the TV to input HDMI2 as a starting point.)

- For "Remote button confirms the source input" select -None-. Note that the next time you enter this screen, this field will revert back to -Select command-, forcing you to set it to -None- again. I suppose you could probably select Exit here, to prevent this.

- For Antenna (or TV or whatever you named it; same with the rest) select InputAntenna.

- For AV1 select InputVideo1

- For Component1 select InputComponent1

- For HDMI1 select InputHDMI2V2

- For HDMI2 select -None- (HDMI2 will already be selected as our starting point. No need to select it again). Again, you could probably use Exit instead of -None-.

- For HDMI3 select InputHDMI1 (which will advance forward from our base HDMI2).

- Click on "Next >" and follow the remaining instructions to complete the exercise. You can now use the input names that you used to set up the proper input for each activity.

Now, wasn't that fun?

Replying here because this was the first result on Google when searching for: "Harmony 880" HL61A750 HDMI3. Maybe it will help someone else who has had the same problem I was experiencing...

I had the exact same problem with my new Samsung HL61A750 and my Harmony 880 -- the discreet code for the HDMI3/DVI input actually rotated to the next input, instead of directly activating HDMI3.

In the Harmony configuration tool, I replaced the HL61A750 with the same model, but smaller sized HL52A750, and the code for the HDMI3 input now works great. All the other inputs appear to work as well -- I've got a device connected to just about every one. Here are the commands that worked in the Logitech setup tool:

HDMI1: InputHDMI1 (TiVo HD)
HDMI2: InputHDMI2 (Philips DVD recorder)
HDMI3/DVI: InputHDMI3 (Sony PS3)
Component1: InputComponent1 (Xbox 360)
Component2: InputComponent2 (Xbox classic with XBMC)
AV1/S-Video: InputSVideo (Sony Handycam)
AV2: InputAV2 (Motorola/Comcast standard definition cable box)
PC: InputPC (Windows Media Center)
TV: InputTV
Source List: InputNext
Source select (when in list): Select

Now the next problem I have to solve is why the digital audio output doesn't seem to pass surround signals to my receiver. Seemingly I only get stereo sound out of the optical input, even though the source signal is 5.1. This means lots of program material is lost, especially on surround sources that have the main dialog only on the center channel. I first noticed it on cutscenes in Metal Gear Solid 4 on my PS3. Hmmmmm.... Still digging...

Hope this helps someone. If I find the solution for the surround sound problem, I'll post it as a reply to this...

Cheers,
-Jake
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post #12725 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

Did anyone using hdmi3\\dvi and a harmony remote, ever find discrete codes that actually worked in going directly to hdmi3?

Its rather annoying that when the set switches to hdmi3, often it will find itself on the tv antenna station (seems to be random, so i cant even really program this in), you then have to hit "hdmi" once again on the harmony and its back on hdmi3..

I'm hoping to find a direct way to get there, but thinking it may not be possible?

I have an HL61A750, and the codes for the HL52A750 worked for me. Details in post #12734, in this thread

(Sorry I don't have a real link. Got blocked by the forum's spam detection, since I'm a new member.)

HTH, -Jake
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post #12726 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 03:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

I had forgotten that the display info is the output only..

I guess in theory, having the player at 60 or 24 shouldnt make a difference even in fast moving scenes?

Has anyone found a good scene to compare and found one way or the other, the answer..

Since i first asked this, i did try 24hz, i really couldnt see a difference honestly (both htpc pc at 24hz and bluray player at 24p, then back to 60 on each).

I vaguely remember that some of the Blu-Ray players are not doing a proper conversion to 60Hz. That the PS3 does it correctly. And presumably some others now, as it was a while ago that I read the above...
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post #12727 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jsavin View Post

Now the next problem I have to solve is why the digital audio output doesn't seem to pass surround signals to my receiver. Seemingly I only get stereo sound out of the optical input, even though the source signal is 5.1. This means lots of program material is lost, especially on surround sources that have the main dialog only on the center channel. I first noticed it on cutscenes in Metal Gear Solid 4 on my PS3. Hmmmmm.... I'll post it as a reply to this...

Well, it looks like the surround sound issue is a FAQ. From the HL61A750 owner/FAQ thread:

Quote:
Originally Posted by mike_pro View Post

- Will the optical out pass DD5.1?
Only for over the air signals. From the manual:
When the receiver (home theater) is set to On, you can hear sound output from the TV's Optical jack. When the TV is displaying a DTV(air) signal, the TV will send out 5.1 channel sound to the Home theater receiver. When the source is a digital component such as a DVD and is connected to the TV via HDMI, only 2 channel sound will be heard from the Home Theater receiver.
If you want to hear 5.1 channel audio, connect the DIGITAL AUDIO OUT (OPTICAL) jack on the DVD player or Cable/Satellite Box directly to an Amplifier or Home Theater, not the TV.

Too bad. I only have 4 digital inputs on my receiver and 5 -- scratch that -- 6 digital audio sources: TiVo, DVD, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, and the TV itself. And all six sources generate 5.1 audio. Looks like I need to get a new receiver.
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post #12728 of 14886 Old 11-16-2008, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jsavin View Post

Too bad. I only have 4 digital inputs on my receiver and 5 -- scratch that -- 6 digital audio sources: TiVo, DVD, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, and the TV itself. And all six sources generate 5.1 audio. Looks like I need to get a new receiver.

use ps3 as dvd -1
what is your tv receiving that TIVO can"t? lose the tv audio -2
yer at 4
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post #12729 of 14886 Old 11-17-2008, 11:28 AM
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I have a Panasonic Blu Ray and it cant output 1080p24 but I can get it to work with the PS3 what gives.
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post #12730 of 14886 Old 11-18-2008, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by blazeblaze View Post

The discrete codes work fine for me. Maybe you got stuck with a Harmony database entry that didn't have them. I believe the exact model # I typed in to find it was "HL-T5689S". If you have a slightly different model, I think the commands are the same...so maybe you could give that a try. The one that worked for me was "HDMI3v2"...as mentioned above, the one labeled "HDMI3" seemed to switch to the HDMI2 input.

I tried this with my hlt-6187s.. it didnt work unfortunately

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post #12731 of 14886 Old 11-18-2008, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by markm75 View Post

I tried this with my hlt-6187s.. it didnt work unfortunately

I know it's a pain, but try giving Harmony's support a call. I believe other people in this thread have had luck with them fixing issues like what you describe. It might just be that the 87's don't support the discrete codes, or they are totally different from the 89's...even though I find that hard to believe.
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post #12732 of 14886 Old 11-19-2008, 04:12 PM
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I've never had any trouble using the discrete code for HDMI3 on my 87 with the Harmony 880. It goes right to HDMI3 every time.
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post #12733 of 14886 Old 11-20-2008, 04:56 PM
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Hi all, my HLT6187S just started displaying "Check the Fan No.3." overlayed on the signal at the bottom of the screen. Is there a quick and easy fix for this or am I going to be stuck paying some service tech $100 to say it'll be a $800 repair?

Thanks!
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post #12734 of 14886 Old 11-20-2008, 06:14 PM
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I didn't think these sets even had a fan since they don't have a bulb... let alone 3 of them. Any ideas?
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post #12735 of 14886 Old 11-20-2008, 09:15 PM
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Well I got gutsy, turned the TV around and opened it up. There were actually 3 fans visible. One 60mm fan right in the middle, another larger one in a duct that looked connected to the light engine, and an identical 60mm buried behind a board on the right side. I pluged the set back in and turned it on and sure enough the fan on the right wasn't spinning.

I pulled the cables off the board that was blocking the fan and removed the board. It was then pretty easy to get to the fan and remove it. Printed on the back of the fan was:
NONOI SE
G6015S12B2 BA
DC 12V 0.070A
2BALL OC

using that I found the manufacturer's spec sheet here . Looks like it's a 12V 2800 RPM fan that flows 11CFM.

And a place that sells them here.

Now that I know the samsung part, I'm going to call a couple repair shops in the morning and see if anyone stocks the part, otherwise I'll just order one.

I confirmed that the fan SHOULD be spinning by plugging the other identical fan into the bad fan's socket. As soon as I powered up the TV, the fan started spinning.

Sounds like I'm on my way to getting my TV fixed on the cheap! This makes me feel much better because I totally got screwed today by a car dealership mechanic and I didn't want to get screwed again by a TV repair shop.

Hope this info can help someone else!
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post #12736 of 14886 Old 11-21-2008, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EskimoPie View Post

Well I got gutsy, turned the TV around and opened it up. There were actually 3 fans visible. One 60mm fan right in the middle, another larger one in a duct that looked connected to the light engine, and an identical 60mm buried behind a board on the right side. I pluged the set back in and turned it on and sure enough the fan on the right wasn't spinning.

I pulled the cables off the board that was blocking the fan and removed the board. It was then pretty easy to get to the fan and remove it. Printed on the back of the fan was:
NONOI SE
G6015S12B2 BA
DC 12V 0.070A
2BALL OC

using that I found the manufacturer's spec sheet here . Looks like it's a 12V 2800 RPM fan that flows 11CFM.

And a place that sells them here.

Now that I know the samsung part, I'm going to call a couple repair shops in the morning and see if anyone stocks the part, otherwise I'll just order one.

I confirmed that the fan SHOULD be spinning by plugging the other identical fan into the bad fan's socket. As soon as I powered up the TV, the fan started spinning.

Sounds like I'm on my way to getting my TV fixed on the cheap! This makes me feel much better because I totally got screwed today by a car dealership mechanic and I didn't want to get screwed again by a TV repair shop.

Hope this info can help someone else!

Possibly very timely info for me. Powered my set up last night and one of the fans is making an extremely annoying high-pitched sqeel/whine. I figure it's on its last legs. Now if it goes out I feel better that a)the set will give me a visual warning and b) the fan is not that hard to repair. Thanks for the info!
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post #12737 of 14886 Old 11-21-2008, 08:34 AM
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@EskimoPie,

How long ago did you get your TV? If less than a year, it should still be under manufactaur's warranty.

I, myself, would be extremely hesitant to jerk around with the inner components.

I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!

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post #12738 of 14886 Old 11-21-2008, 08:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsavin View Post

Too bad. I only have 4 digital inputs on my receiver and 5 -- scratch that -- 6 digital audio sources: TiVo, DVD, Xbox, Xbox 360, PS3, and the TV itself. And all six sources generate 5.1 audio. Looks like I need to get a new receiver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mborland View Post

use ps3 as dvd -1
what is your tv receiving that TIVO can"t? lose the tv audio -2
yer at 4

And what games do yo have that you actually still need your Xbox to play that the 360 can't?

Get rid of that and your at 3

PS360

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post #12739 of 14886 Old 11-21-2008, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by room112 View Post

@EskimoPie,

How long ago did you get your TV? If less than a year, it should still be under manufactaur's warranty.

I, myself, would be extremely hesitant to jerk around with the inner components.

It was bought a year and a half ago so I'm definately out of warranty. I've tried going the paid service route in the past for a previous DLP and they charged me ~$80 just to come out to the house and then wanted almost a thousand dollars to fix the TV. A fan is a pretty simple thing and I'm confident I can fix it myself.

The credit card I purchased the TV on has a double-warranty feature I believe, but the last time I dealt with that it was a many-month process... If I can fix this myself for just $30, sounds like a slam-dunk.
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post #12740 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 08:08 AM
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Wondering if anyone here who has DirecTV has gotten one of their HD DVRs (HR20, HR21, HR22, etc...) to successfully display any of the 1080p/24 VOD content on an HLTxx89s (or 87).

I have an early model HLT5689s that does appear to accept the signal, the audio plays fine, but the video is extremely jittery and unwatchable.
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post #12741 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Thaedron View Post

Wondering if anyone here who has DirecTV has gotten one of their HD DVRs (HR20, HR21, HR22, etc...) to successfully display any of the 1080p/24 VOD content on an HLTxx89s (or 87).

I have an early model HLT5689s that does appear to accept the signal, the audio plays fine, but the video is extremely jittery and unwatchable.

I have a HLT5689S with a HR20-100S via HDMI, and I was able to play the Hulk 1080p clip with no problems. Did you enable 1080p as an available resolution on the HR?

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post #12742 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EskimoPie View Post

Well I got gutsy, turned the TV around and opened it up. There were actually 3 fans visible. One 60mm fan right in the middle, another larger one in a duct that looked connected to the light engine, and an identical 60mm buried behind a board on the right side. I pluged the set back in and turned it on and sure enough the fan on the right wasn't spinning.

I pulled the cables off the board that was blocking the fan and removed the board. It was then pretty easy to get to the fan and remove it. Printed on the back of the fan was:
NONOI SE
G6015S12B2 BA
DC 12V 0.070A
2BALL OC

using that I found the manufacturer's spec sheet here . Looks like it's a 12V 2800 RPM fan that flows 11CFM.

And a place that sells them here.

Now that I know the samsung part, I'm going to call a couple repair shops in the morning and see if anyone stocks the part, otherwise I'll just order one.

I confirmed that the fan SHOULD be spinning by plugging the other identical fan into the bad fan's socket. As soon as I powered up the TV, the fan started spinning.

Sounds like I'm on my way to getting my TV fixed on the cheap! This makes me feel much better because I totally got screwed today by a car dealership mechanic and I didn't want to get screwed again by a TV repair shop.

Hope this info can help someone else!


SUCCESS! Got the fan yesterday. Of the 2 identical fans in the TV, the power leads on one are only ~4 inches while they're about 12 inches on the other. The fan that died was the one with the longer wires and wouldn't you know it, the fan I ordered had the shorter ones. 15 minutes of soldering later I had a nice new fan with long leads on it! Plugged it in and it worked like a champ! No more "Check Fan No. 3" on the screen all the time.

Saved myself several hundred dollars AT LEAST!
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post #12743 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oktoberrust11 View Post

I have a HLT5689S with a HR20-100S via HDMI, and I was able to play the Hulk 1080p clip with no problems. Did you enable 1080p as an available resolution on the HR?

I haven't tried the Hulk, but had tried some of the other content (The Bucket List). Yes, I did enable 1080p as an available resolution.

How are you connected? I have my HR20 and an HR21 routed through my Denon AVR-4306. I would hope not, but wonder if it's possible that the AVR is somehow interfering with the /24p "are you supported" request.

I'll try again. Being more persistent this time, knowing that it is actually possible.
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post #12744 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaedron View Post

Wondering if anyone here who has DirecTV has gotten one of their HD DVRs (HR20, HR21, HR22, etc...) to successfully display any of the 1080p/24 VOD content on an HLTxx89s (or 87).

I have an early model HLT5689s that does appear to accept the signal, the audio plays fine, but the video is extremely jittery and unwatchable.

I've had no problem with any of the 1080p content from my HR20-100. I have it connected directly to my tv via HDMI. Have you loaded the latest firmware for your HLT?
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post #12745 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaedron View Post

I haven't tried the Hulk, but had tried some of the other content (The Bucket List). Yes, I did enable 1080p as an available resolution.

How are you connected? I have my HR20 and an HR21 routed through my Denon AVR-4306. I would hope not, but wonder if it's possible that the AVR is somehow interfering with the /24p "are you supported" request.

I'll try again. Being more persistent this time, knowing that it is actually possible.

Direct from the HR20 to the TV. Probably worth a shot doing a direct connection.

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post #12746 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaedron View Post

Wondering if anyone here who has DirecTV has gotten one of their HD DVRs (HR20, HR21, HR22, etc...) to successfully display any of the 1080p/24 VOD content on an HLTxx89s (or 87).

My 87 has had absolutely no issues displaying DirecTV's 1080p VOD content. It's a direct connection to the TV.
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post #12747 of 14886 Old 11-26-2008, 06:57 PM
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Hi,

I have an 8 month old 5089s and I just got an orange screen on the TV. I was playing my xbox360 through hdmi1 and the 360 was working fine as I could hear action and do things, just not see what I was doing. I tried turning it off and nothing would work. I then unplugged it for 30 minutes to let it cooldown, afterward it worked fine again. No errors reported when I fired it back up.

Is this something to be concerned over or not?

Thanks,
Mier
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post #12748 of 14886 Old 11-27-2008, 09:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy W View Post

My 87 has had absolutely no issues displaying DirecTV's 1080p VOD content. It's a direct connection to the TV.

Ok, I installed the latest firmware 1019 for the 89S (was on 1014). 1080p/24 is now working perfectly!

Only one problem, the set is now stuck in game mode...

Edit: Whew, had never used game mode before, figured out how to get it turned off and then back to movie mode...
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post #12749 of 14886 Old 11-28-2008, 11:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thaedron View Post

Ok, I installed the latest firmware 1019 for the 89S (was on 1014). 1080p/24 is now working perfectly!

Only one problem, the set is now stuck in game mode...

Edit: Whew, had never used game mode before, figured out how to get it turned off and then back to movie mode...

I had the same problem, so you should be aware that all of your inputs will be in GAME mode, even ones that you can't change out of GAME mode through the menus. I had a tech come out, but a factory reset (through the service menu) fixed everything.
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post #12750 of 14886 Old 11-29-2008, 10:15 AM
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Is it better to have the gamma -3, 0 or +3? I want my picture to look the way the movie was supposed to be watched.
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