2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 428 - AVS Forum
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post #12811 of 14886 Old 01-10-2009, 12:09 PM
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Do the HL-T6189 and similar Samsung DLP sets run Linux internally?

I was looking through the firmware downloaded from Samsung's web site (to make sure 1019 was the latest firmware for the HL-T6189S) and found the following files inside of the archive:
  • run.sh : a shell script
  • rc.local : a script ran during startup of many versions of Linux and Unix
  • Many .so and .ko files which are shared object files (similar to DLLs) and kernel modules (similar to device drivers)
  • Several .img files that appear to be compressed ROMFS file system images (compressed file system images)
Fascinating! Too bad Samsung is discontinuing the DLP sets. :-( I wonder if their LCD sets also use Linux?
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post #12812 of 14886 Old 01-10-2009, 06:12 PM
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Hi there,

I have had my HLT5089S for about a year and a half or so. Dynamic contrast drives me nuts. The only way I can turn it off is by going into movie mode and disabling it there, but then the picture doesn't seem as crisp and sharp.

Is there a setting in the Service Menu to completely disable Dynamic Contrast? Thanks in advance.

Dean
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post #12813 of 14886 Old 01-10-2009, 06:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormwind View Post

Do the HL-T6189 and similar Samsung DLP sets run Linux internally?

Look at the back pages of your owner's manual. It includes the GPL and LGPL licenses.

It also states:
GPL software: Linux Kernel, Busybox, Binutils
LGPL software: Glibc
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post #12814 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormwind View Post

Do the HL-T6189 and similar Samsung DLP sets run Linux internally?

I was looking through the firmware downloaded from Samsung's web site (to make sure 1019 was the latest firmware for the HL-T6189S) and found the following files inside of the archive:
  • run.sh : a shell script
  • rc.local : a script ran during startup of many versions of Linux and Unix
  • Many .so and .ko files which are shared object files (similar to DLLs) and kernel modules (similar to device drivers)
  • Several .img files that appear to be compressed ROMFS file system images (compressed file system images)
Fascinating! Too bad Samsung is discontinuing the DLP sets. :-( I wonder if their LCD sets also use Linux?

Has anyone every found a change revision list for the fw? I have 1016 on my 5689S and i'm thinking of applying the 1019 from samsung.com.

G.
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post #12815 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:10 AM
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FYI,
I applied the 1019 firmware patch to my TV (89s) to fix the picture mode reset problems and audio droput issues it was having with HDMI cables.

The firmware patch actually bricked my machine. What makes this matter worse is my TV was out of warranty. I was quite ticked off with this as i have 12+ years of tech support knowledge with s/w and h/w so if I bricked it, i could imagine anyone out there could brick their TV through no fault of their own.

I had to call samsung and speak with their CRG (customer relations group) and was able to get them to cover the service call because the firmware broke the machine. It took several calls, but they were very open to working with me to address the fact the firmware patch broke the Tv.

Tech ended up replacing the main control board that has the firmware chip on it.

I have to give Samsung an A+ one this one for covering their firmware patch. I do not think other companies would do this if you TV is out of warranty. This was actually the first positive interaction I have had with their hotline as i had quite a few nightmares with the orginal problems I had with the TV's.
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post #12816 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dinokath View Post

Hi there,

I have had my HLT5089S for about a year and a half or so. Dynamic contrast drives me nuts. The only way I can turn it off is by going into movie mode and disabling it there, but then the picture doesn't seem as crisp and sharp.

Is there a setting in the Service Menu to completely disable Dynamic Contrast? Thanks in advance.

Dean

I think dynamic contract uses an adjustable iris (dynamic iris) that adjsut the amount of light/backlight getting into the machine. Hence the term dynamic contrast. The dynamic mode has to use this to give you a wider range of more saturated colors/contrast. So i believe that is why it is grayed out on that menu. standard also has more vibrant colors so i think that is used as well.

that may also be why you get crisper and sharper picture underthose modes. Turning it off, would probalby jsut give you movie mode quality in return.

You may be better off going into dynamic mode, writing all the settings down and then switch to movie mode and set everything that you can to the same values/settings and then tweak from there.

I think i recall reading a long time ago people knew how to disabel the iris in the service menu, but that it didn't hold when you turned the tv off???

I am speculating on this though as well.
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post #12817 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vicw View Post

Do you have a link to the info about the Optical Bracket? I lived with the blue halo problem through my warranty period - tempted to create a call for the part to be replaced, but fearful that a service call might leave me with a more serious problem. I decided that I would rather wait, and pay for the part and install it myself after warranty - I know that sounds ridiculous, but I'm paranoid about the possibility of getting a careless, or less than highly trained tech doing the job.

Not sure if samsung will sell you the optical bracket. Even though it is out of warranty the do not want unreliable people in their machines. Hopefully you can get it from them or some 3rd party reseller.

The only real difference with the optical bracket is the silver one reflect light causing the blue halo. The new optical bracket is a flat black so it doesn't reflect any light. SOmeone on here a while back actually took his apart and spray painted the bracket (this was before samsugn admitted to the problem and had a part fo it).

So if you have problems getting the bracket you could maybe invest in some flat black paint and do it yourself. I would suggest something that can stand somewhat higher tempartures as I don;t know how hot it gets in there but you probably don't need it flaking off and muking up the insides of the tv.
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post #12818 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drrichardh View Post

Question about Optical Audio throughput.

I have it on good authority that I'm getting a Sony 350 blu ray player for Christmas to use with my HLT 5087S. I also have an older Yamaha Surround system that has no HDMI input. Right now I'm feeding tv sound to the am using the digital optical output and it seems to be delivering 5.1 when the broadcasters deliver it.

My question has to do with getting 5.1 sound from the blu ray player. My read of the specs seems to say that it only delivers surround (7.1) via HDMI. While it has an optical and a coax out they seem to be set for only 2 channel sound. So if I am feeding the the blu ray into the 5087S using the hdmi - will I get surround sound out of the 5087S's optical out?

The optical out on the TV only passes 5.1 sound if you are using the internal tuners (cable line into the coaxial inputs). Any other input source will only pass 2 channel sound out the optical output.

The optical out on the blu-ray player should have the ability to output 5.1 sound i believe. there should be some type of setting to switch between bitstream and PCM. PCM is uncompressed sound and is too much data to be handles via the optical cable to they limit to 2 channels. Bitstream should allow 5.1 to pass through to your receiver. You won't get any of the HD sound (uncompressed, True-HD or Master Hd) but the core sounds (DTS and Dolby digital) should be passed though if your blu-ray player supports it.

I would suggested checking out the forums on blu-ray.com. There are plenty of forums on different blu-ray players and what they can and cannot do.
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post #12819 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrJ242006 View Post

I've had my set for a little over a year, loving it..just one problem thats started popping up, when playing ps3 or 360 games when the screen is green like a football/baseball or soccer field at times the color seems to change, almost like the color of the field switches through several shades, any ideas what the problem might be? I don't really notice it on anything else.

The modes have somethign called "active color".
It enhances colors. blues become blue-er and greens become green-er. If your signal or color of green changes shades during a game due to lighting or from one camera to another, this setting may apply a different amount of green or no green at allow which may cause more of a noticeable difference. Try turing it off to see if it helps or not.
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post #12820 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

"Did anyone using hdmi3\\dvi and a harmony remote, ever find discrete codes that actually worked in going directly to hdmi3?"

On my Harmony 880 InputHDMI3 works just fine for me.

My harmony 1000 remote works correctly with the hdmi3/dvi port on the Tv. I am not in front of my remote right now, but if i recall right the settings on the remote was not hdmi3. they had one called hdmi2dvi (hdmi to dvi) i think it stands for so someone might think it is for the hdmi2 port. I think that is what confused me the first time i set up my harmony (over a year ago).
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post #12821 of 14886 Old 01-13-2009, 10:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmiddleton4 View Post

"The HLT DLP displays do indeed support 24 fps and 60 fps."

Well yes as far as it goes. Samsung talks out of both sides of its mouth about 24fps support. Just because the Info button says 24fps and the displays will accept 24 fps, that does not then mean the Samsung display's fully support 24fps and are actually doing 24fps in a manner one would call properly or correctly displaying 24fps.

There has been much discussion on this with a list of what displays do actually fully support and display 24fps. It becomes quickly obvious that displaying 24fps when Info is pushed is NOT the same as fully supporting 24fps.

Alot of 720P Tv will display 1080i or 1080p on screen because the accept those inputs, the Tv just ends up convertings them to their native dispaly of 720P. So its the same thing here. Even though the TV accepts the 24HZ signal and displays it is a 24HZ input, it converts it to the native 60 HZ via 3:2 pulldown. So it does the same thing other manufacturers due with regards to reslutions inputs you see on the screen. In addition blu-ray players that do not detect the 24HZ setting unless you set them from automatic to force 24HZ probalby doesn't do anything. The blu-ray players does a handshake to determine if the TV supports 24HZ natively. If it does then it sets it. If it doesn't then it doesn't. whether your blu-ray player is doing the 3:2 conversion to 60HZ or you TV is doing proably isn't any real difference. I have set my PS3 to 24 HZ forced and left it on automatic (60 hz) and I see no real difference. It is however possible that some blu-ray player may do a better 3:2 conversion than this Tv does so you will have to play with yours to test.
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post #12822 of 14886 Old 01-14-2009, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rettenhu View Post

I have always had the blue "no signal" screens, etc as you described, but in my case I have noticed that it coincides with my Sony Receiver (STR-555ES) switching back and forth from DD 5.1 and PCM(?) for the menus, FBI warnings, movie, etc. I notice this because my receiver displays a blue LED when it switches to DD5.1 and then off when non 5.1 audio is passed. I also hear a distinctive "click" when the receiver switches to 5.1.

Fair enough. Just wanted to validate what I thought to be true. Appreciate the feedback
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post #12823 of 14886 Old 01-15-2009, 07:33 AM
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Hi all,

My HL-T6189S buzzing and brightness flickering is driving me crazy and the set it almost out of warranty, so I have placed a service request to get it fixed. Would anyone who has had their buzzing fixed be willing to PM me their service call # so I can give it to the service tech?

The buzzing seems to be related to electrical noise, because it travels over my HDMI cable to the receiver and amplifier and comes out even louder through my speaker system! When I disconnect the HDMI cable the buzz from the speakers goes away, but it still comes from the set itself. I have verified that the speaker buzzing is not a ground loop. The buzzing is also not present when I play audio with the TV off or HDMI disconnected.

The service tech seems doubtful that the TV buzzing can be fixed and claims it is just a little louder than normal (Samsung says buzzing that is not audible when TV is showing a program on volume level 15). He did go ahead and order a new LED Driver in the hopes it would fix the problem. Any service call #'s where the buzzing was fixed would help me convince them to fix it.

Thanks!
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post #12824 of 14886 Old 01-15-2009, 10:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slaine View Post

Fair enough. Just wanted to validate what I thought to be true. Appreciate the feedback

don';t knowif your receive supports this, but on my onkyo i have all the lower sound settings mapped to higher settings. Things like 2.0 sound, 2.1 sound, and such i have mapped to the pro logic settings,,,so pretty much everything comes out 5.1 or 7.1. That way you don't get that constant switching and clicking from the receiver.

When I had first gotten the receiver, when i flipped through cable channels,,it kept doing what yours was doing and i would hear the click, aduio droput then it would come back. Because some channels were broadcasting mono, stereo sound or dolby 5.1.

Read you manaul for your receiver to see if you can do this mapping.
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post #12825 of 14886 Old 01-16-2009, 05:06 AM
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Does anyone know of a professional calibration service in the Connecticut for the HL 61A750?
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post #12826 of 14886 Old 01-18-2009, 01:08 PM
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Anyone know how to replace the LEDs in the Samsung 87S series?

I'll describe the problem since I don't really know for sure what the problem is. About a week ago my screen got a horrible reddish cast to it. I tried turning the TV off. That didn't help so I unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The next day the color was back to normal. While watching the screen went dim so I figured I would turn the TV off and turn it back on. The screen came back but it again had the reddish cast to it.

The LEDs on the front of the unit don't show any indication of an error condition and the TV works fine aside from the color problem.

Messing around with it today I used the WiseLink function to display some test color gradients and from what I can tell the green is totally gone. Green in the gradient showed up black. This sucks, since I had bought the LED model with the assumption that the LEDs would actually last longer than a bulb. 684 hours on the LEDs (per the service menu)

The samsungparts.com site doesn't show any individual parts for a replacement LED bulb, just some LED engine assembly (BP96-01729A) for $909!

Does anyone know how to replace the LEDs? I haven't ventured inside the TV yet and thought I would check with you all here to see if anyone has some advice or tips. Thanks!
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post #12827 of 14886 Old 01-18-2009, 01:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric View Post

The samsungparts.com site doesn't show any individual parts for a replacement LED bulb, just some LED engine assembly (BP96-01729A) for $909!

Yep, that's the part that would need to be replaced. I would try calling Samsung, because this sounds like a manufacturing defect. LEDs simply don't "burn out" after 684 hours of use.
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post #12828 of 14886 Old 01-18-2009, 01:55 PM
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when watching Tv. On the lower center of the screen, When a dark object appears I get bluish halos about 2 in in diamenter. sometimes 3 or 4 of them Light object are displayed ith no problem. But a black jacket or something similar .. and boom there they are.

any ideas ?
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post #12829 of 14886 Old 01-19-2009, 05:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric View Post

Anyone know how to replace the LEDs in the Samsung 87S series?

I'll describe the problem since I don't really know for sure what the problem is. About a week ago my screen got a horrible reddish cast to it. I tried turning the TV off. That didn't help so I unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The next day the color was back to normal. While watching the screen went dim so I figured I would turn the TV off and turn it back on. The screen came back but it again had the reddish cast to it.

The LEDs on the front of the unit don't show any indication of an error condition and the TV works fine aside from the color problem.

Messing around with it today I used the WiseLink function to display some test color gradients and from what I can tell the green is totally gone. Green in the gradient showed up black. This sucks, since I had bought the LED model with the assumption that the LEDs would actually last longer than a bulb. 684 hours on the LEDs (per the service menu)

The samsungparts.com site doesn't show any individual parts for a replacement LED bulb, just some LED engine assembly (BP96-01729A) for $909!

Does anyone know how to replace the LEDs? I haven't ventured inside the TV yet and thought I would check with you all here to see if anyone has some advice or tips. Thanks!

Do you have the same symptoms if you use another input source like a DVD player? If not, I would check your cable connection to the TV. I had a similar problem and in my cas it turned out to be a loose connection on my component cable... Keeping my fingers crossed for you that it's this easy to fix!
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post #12830 of 14886 Old 01-19-2009, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rettenhu View Post

Do you have the same symptoms if you use another input source like a DVD player?

He displayed the test pictures using WiseLink, which doesn't use an actual input at all.
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post #12831 of 14886 Old 01-20-2009, 07:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric View Post

Anyone know how to replace the LEDs in the Samsung 87S series?

I'll describe the problem since I don't really know for sure what the problem is. About a week ago my screen got a horrible reddish cast to it. I tried turning the TV off. That didn't help so I unplugged it and let it sit overnight. The next day the color was back to normal. While watching the screen went dim so I figured I would turn the TV off and turn it back on. The screen came back but it again had the reddish cast to it.

The LEDs on the front of the unit don't show any indication of an error condition and the TV works fine aside from the color problem.

Messing around with it today I used the WiseLink function to display some test color gradients and from what I can tell the green is totally gone. Green in the gradient showed up black. This sucks, since I had bought the LED model with the assumption that the LEDs would actually last longer than a bulb. 684 hours on the LEDs (per the service menu)

The samsungparts.com site doesn't show any individual parts for a replacement LED bulb, just some LED engine assembly (BP96-01729A) for $909!

Does anyone know how to replace the LEDs? I haven't ventured inside the TV yet and thought I would check with you all here to see if anyone has some advice or tips. Thanks!

Problem is it may not be the LED at all, anything in the data path for green could cause the loss of signal, or the power source for the green LED. The service manual is available for around $30 and if you have some test equipment you can try to find out where the failure is.

Mike T
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post #12832 of 14886 Old 01-21-2009, 09:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mjbitondo View Post

when watching Tv. On the lower center of the screen, When a dark object appears I get bluish halos about 2 in in diamenter. sometimes 3 or 4 of them Light object are displayed ith no problem. But a black jacket or something similar .. and boom there they are.

any ideas ?


Search "Halo" or "Halo Effect"
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post #12833 of 14886 Old 01-21-2009, 10:38 AM
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Been a while since I updated the HLT tech links, but added a couple...

If you are pretty new to the HLT, you may want to see if any of the many tech links applies to your problems.

See my sig line for the link..

Cheers,
Doc
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post #12834 of 14886 Old 01-22-2009, 07:03 PM
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Thanks for the idea, but that was one of my first thoughts. It shows up on antenna, component DVD and WiseLink. I don't have any HDMI components, but I'd guess those are having the same problem.
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post #12835 of 14886 Old 01-31-2009, 06:24 AM
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40 Days out of warranty and my screen went Green last night. From perfect picture, to green to no pic. Cycled power, came back all green. Unpluged over night, same results. I'll start with the service manual and keep you posted. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Should add this is a HL-T5687SA, not sure the firmware rev nor hours total on the set, Christmas gift to self last year. Assuming I can determine both in the SM? Will read posts regarding SM access and update.

Update: Feed it an All red screen using the WiseLink, Red is dead. Since I use to be an electronics guy a long time ago in a galaxy.... I poped the back off the set. Had the LED driver unit, or whatever it's called, on my Kitchen table in 20 mins. Nothing to this thing. Used my trusty DVM and some nice data from Luminus, http://www.luminus.com/content1092 and determined that the RED LED IS DEAD. Now maybe bad LED, maybe the driver circuit took it out, not sure. Think these things are sold as a set, any input on that would be apreciated. Found a possible resource on Ebay, but I can't be sure it's the right part, or color.

Anybody out there have a service manual that would be willing to share the Samsung part number for the RED LED light source?

Thanks,

jp
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post #12836 of 14886 Old 01-31-2009, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by pooreng99 View Post

Anybody out there have a service manual that would be willing to share the Samsung part number for the RED LED light source?

Although the service manual gives detailed instructions on how to replace each individual LED module, the parts list doesn't appear to give the part numbers for them. Only the entire light engine assembly is listed (BP96-01729E).
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post #12837 of 14886 Old 01-31-2009, 03:50 PM
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Quote:


Although the service manual gives detailed instructions on how to replace each individual LED module, the parts list doesn't appear to give the part numbers for them. Only the entire light engine assembly is listed (BP96-01729E).

Thanks for the info MLXXXp, the listing I see on e-bay are Samsung part #s
BP07-00030A
BP07-00029A
BP07-00025A

Description looks correct, but the listing doesn't tell me what color they are. Have a query into the seller, will post more info as I get it.
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post #12838 of 14886 Old 01-31-2009, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by BLTBLT View Post

Does anyone know of a professional calibration service in the Connecticut for the HL 61A750?

i just had my 67" calibrated by these guys and trust me when i tell u they are the best .just ask around

http://www.avical.com/tours.html
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post #12839 of 14886 Old 02-06-2009, 09:28 AM
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I have a coworker that owns a HL-T6187S that performed a firmware update last night but now his set is not working.

He updated the firmware (version 1028 is what he said) through a USB drive and when it was finished it had a 'completed, please wait couple seconds for the TV to turn off and on' message. He waited over 10 minutes and it was still sitting there. So against his better judgment, he turned off the TV and turn it back on. Now there is just a black screen, looks like the LEDs lights up but no image. Then the TV will shut itself off after 5 minutes. The diagnostic lights do blink like it is warming up.

Anyone have similar issues? Should he just call Samsung?

Thanks

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post #12840 of 14886 Old 02-06-2009, 09:33 AM
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If the TV won't respond there's not a lot that he can do. One thing he might try is to leave it unplugged overnight then try it again, if not then he's got no real option but calling for service, which is probably going to cost a few hundred unless he has an extended warranty.

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