2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 435 - AVS Forum
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post #13021 of 14903 Old 07-16-2009, 05:39 PM
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Took my 6187 back to BestBuy and had them order a Mitsu WD-65837 DLP and got them to include another 4 year warranty for the price I paid for the 6187 so I did not pay anymore. Guess I am now in another thread and now have a color wheel and bulb. I guess Samsung is not going to provide parts to repair these sets and is paying the extended warranty company to junk the set. I tried to get them to let me have the set, but they said they would not get their money from the warranty company, which is AIG if they did not have the old set to return.

Mike T
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post #13022 of 14903 Old 07-19-2009, 07:27 AM
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Hey Guys,

New to the forum, found it by doing the search for RED LED issue on my 6187S. Anyway, after pulling my hair out I was able to find the P/N for the RED LED Display. RED = BP07-00023A, Blue = BP07-00025A, Green = BP07-00024A. Bought the service manual and it pretty clearly shows how to remove and replace them. 20 screws & 5 connectors later, my TV is back to beautiful!!!!!

Service Manual = $25
RED LED DISPLAY = $104
Being able to fix it yourself w/o a repair guy or Samsung telling me I need a $900 light engine = PRICELESS.

By the way after reading the specs on the LED Displays (Temp vs Life) and seeing how it is set-up inside - 2 Fans and a rediculous cooler (For the Red) it is quite obvious to me that Samsung new they might have issues!

RS
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post #13023 of 14903 Old 07-19-2009, 07:46 AM
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Folks:
I've had my HLT 6187 for quite a bit longer than the warranty period. To see that Samsung is replacing (as opposed to repairing) a growing number of HLTs which are under warranty (extended or otherwise) is making me nervous. One of the reasons I bought the HLT was BECAUSE there were fewer moving parts (e.g., no color wheel) and long-life LED lamps. Of course, I don't have an extended warranty for the same reason - nothing to fail.

rlsj7's repairs give me hope but I am not a messing-around-with-electronics kind of guy. I may have no choice... So far everything is fine and the HLT is still a magnificent performer - I really love the PQ.

Gotta buy a new TV for my mom next week. Anybody want to quote some odds on whether it will be a Samsung or not?

mnilan
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post #13024 of 14903 Old 07-19-2009, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlsj7 View Post

Hey Guys,

New to the forum, found it by doing the search for RED LED issue on my 6187S. Anyway, after pulling my hair out I was able to find the P/N for the RED LED Display. RED = BP07-00023A, Blue = BP07-00025A, Green = BP07-00024A. Bought the service manual and it pretty clearly shows how to remove and replace them. 20 screws & 5 connectors later, my TV is back to beautiful!!!!!

Service Manual = $25
RED LED DISPLAY = $104
Being able to fix it yourself w/o a repair guy or Samsung telling me I need a $900 light engine = PRICELESS.

By the way after reading the specs on the LED Displays (Temp vs Life) and seeing how it is set-up inside - 2 Fans and a rediculous cooler (For the Red) it is quite obvious to me that Samsung new they might have issues!

RS

Great news! If any of my LEDs ever go out, I won't hesiate to replace them myself. Can you tell me a source for the LEDs and the manual?
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post #13025 of 14903 Old 07-19-2009, 04:48 PM
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Got the LEDs through partstore.com

-RS
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post #13026 of 14903 Old 07-20-2009, 01:31 PM
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Ok, so the tech has been here twice to see why the TV won't power on, and has had no luck. The capacitors all seem to be intact, and he also switched another part out with no luck. (trying to remember what he called it and i'm blanking...LED controller?)

He's now thinking its the board on the far side of the TV (away from the cables) because its not getting any power. He says he's going to try replacing it and if that doesn't work, he's going to suggest Samsung replace it.

Now as far as I can tell, Samsung isn't going to be able to replace an HLT6187S, and since they already extended my original warranty to cover this repair, I'm getting the idea I'm treading in dangerous waters.

Worst case scenario, if I have to replace this thing... what're my best options? Telling Samsung to give me a (probably partial) refund and then a 58 inch plasma and stand at cost? Getting some sort of money back and switching to a Mitsubishi WD-65837 like mtallent? (which according to the dimensions will fit on the Samsung stand)

Yikes.
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post #13027 of 14903 Old 07-20-2009, 07:07 PM
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I need help! I have a HLT-5686S and I hooked up my computer to the DLP TV, but having issues with the picture being shifted to the left about an inch.

I am running the computer at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz , which is the native resolution of the TV. I used the position menu to bring it more to the right, but it is maxed out and still cut off.

The PC and Home Theater menu options under settings are grayed out, why is that? I am running a DVI to HDMI cable.

To some it up, my questions are:
1. Why is the PC and Home Theater options grayed out under Settings menu
2. Is there a master reset for this TV?
3. How do I get into the service menu?

Thanks
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post #13028 of 14903 Old 07-20-2009, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlsj7 View Post

Got the LEDs through partstore.com

-RS

Thanks for the info. What about the service manual?
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post #13029 of 14903 Old 07-21-2009, 06:21 AM
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You can probably get it cheaper on another site, but here is the service manual on the official Samsung parts site:

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT6187S

It is cheaper at that partstore website:
http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch....olkitScripts=1
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post #13030 of 14903 Old 07-21-2009, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jlachowin View Post

I need help! I have a HLT-5686S and I hooked up my computer to the DLP TV, but having issues with the picture being shifted to the left about an inch.

I am running the computer at 1920x1080 @ 60Hz , which is the native resolution of the TV. I used the position menu to bring it more to the right, but it is maxed out and still cut off.

The PC and Home Theater menu options under settings are grayed out, why is that? I am running a DVI to HDMI cable.

To some it up, my questions are:
1. Why is the PC and Home Theater options grayed out under Settings menu
2. Is there a master reset for this TV?
3. How do I get into the service menu?

Thanks

The reason the HTPC options are greyed out is because the input has to be named PC for those to be enabled. That said, if you are actually using it as an HTPC, the options in there are probably not going to do you much good. They ARE nice if you are going to use the tv as a general use computer monitor, but that is all. The Reason the screen is larger than your picture, is because it is mapping the pixels 1:1. The tv is a native 1920x1080 picture, but that image is overscanned off the sides of the screen. You can choose the zoom modes on the tv, which will scale the screen down to fit, but you will lose the clarity of the 1:1 mapping. If you want to see the entire desktop, in 1:1 mapping, you will need to use the overscan correction/custom resolution options in your graphics drivers to go to a smaller resolution, such as 1880x1040 or so.
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post #13031 of 14903 Old 07-21-2009, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CraziFuzzy View Post

If you want to see the entire desktop, in 1:1 mapping, you will need to use the overscan correction/custom resolution options in your graphics drivers to go to a smaller resolution, such as 1880x1040 or so.

Once I got mine in HTPC mode (as you described), I was able to adjust the overscan on my 5689S and I use the 1920x1080 resolution (my video card supported it) without any issues. So there was no need for using the smaller resolution for me.
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post #13032 of 14903 Old 07-21-2009, 11:48 PM
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is there a way to move the projector part forward and back? i'm thinking that if you could move it closer to the screen, that should make the picture smaller, and perhaps reducing any overscan, though you would have refocus after, and perhaps the way to refocus is to move the projector back and forth, nullifying any fixing you might have done.
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post #13033 of 14903 Old 07-22-2009, 12:26 AM
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All of a sudden tonight, my screen became dim with sort of a peach color bias. Adjustments have little effect. I'm guessing the LED lamp assembly has reached end-of-life. Anyway to know for sure if this is the problem? If it needs replacing, where can I get a replacement lamp and instructions for changing it?
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post #13034 of 14903 Old 07-23-2009, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by transco View Post

All of a sudden tonight, my screen became dim with sort of a peach color bias. Adjustments have little effect. I'm guessing the LED lamp assembly has reached end-of-life. Anyway to know for sure if this is the problem? If it needs replacing, where can I get a replacement lamp and instructions for changing it?

Check the posts earlier on this page - about 10 posts back from this one.
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post #13035 of 14903 Old 07-26-2009, 06:35 AM
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Did you happen to take some pictures of the process? That would be a great DIY post, and I could put it in the Tech Links.

Cheers,
Doc Rings

PS: I'm two years in Okinawa and my HLT is back in the states! Boo!
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post #13036 of 14903 Old 07-26-2009, 06:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

You can probably get it cheaper on another site, but here is the service manual on the official Samsung parts site:

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT6187S

It is cheaper at that partstore website:
http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch....olkitScripts=1

I changed my "service manual link" in the tech link to the one you provided...

thanks!
Doc
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post #13037 of 14903 Old 07-26-2009, 06:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rlsj7 View Post

Hey Guys,

New to the forum, found it by doing the search for RED LED issue on my 6187S. Anyway, after pulling my hair out I was able to find the P/N for the RED LED Display. RED = BP07-00023A, Blue = BP07-00025A, Green = BP07-00024A. Bought the service manual and it pretty clearly shows how to remove and replace them. 20 screws & 5 connectors later, my TV is back to beautiful!!!!!

Service Manual = $25
RED LED DISPLAY = $104
Being able to fix it yourself w/o a repair guy or Samsung telling me I need a $900 light engine = PRICELESS.

By the way after reading the specs on the LED Displays (Temp vs Life) and seeing how it is set-up inside - 2 Fans and a rediculous cooler (For the Red) it is quite obvious to me that Samsung new they might have issues!

RS

I added your DIY motivating post to the HLT Tech Links...

Cheers,
Doc Rings
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post #13038 of 14903 Old 08-04-2009, 04:23 AM
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I haven't been on this forum in quite some time. Recently I had my RED LED go out. It was out of warranty by 8 months. After pitching quite a fit over several days with Samsung they agreed to give me a one time coutesy extension to cover the cost of repair. The service techician orderered a red led replacement. He came to my house and had never worked on my type of TV before. It took him about 20 minutes from start to finish. While I would never been able to attempt this myself after watching the repair I beleive if I could make a go at it in the future. I noticed on his invoice that his cost for the LED was $74. Had I taken the TV to their shop the cost would have been $250-$350. For any techie novice-expert changing the RED LED seems doable. Looks like we all got duped on this TV.
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post #13039 of 14903 Old 08-04-2009, 04:33 AM
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I think several on the forum have done it themselves, too, without too much difficult. Check the posts a couple above yours, and you can read about it...

Cheers,
Doc


Quote:
Originally Posted by Action4242 View Post

I haven't been on this forum in quite some time. Recently I had my RED LED go out. It was out of warranty by 8 months. After pitching quite a fit over several days with Samsung they agreed to give me a one time coutesy extension to cover the cost of repair. The service techician orderered a red led replacement. He came to my house and had never worked on my type of TV before. It took him about 20 minutes from start to finish. While I would never been able to attempt this myself after watching the repair I beleive if I could make a go at it in the future. I noticed on his invoice that his cost for the LED was $74. Had I taken the TV to their shop the cost would have been $250-$350. For any techie novice-expert changing the RED LED seems doable. Looks like we all got duped on this TV.

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post #13040 of 14903 Old 08-04-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

You can probably get it cheaper on another site, but here is the service manual on the official Samsung parts site:

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT6187S

It is cheaper at that partstore website:
http://www.partstore.com/PartSearch....olkitScripts=1

you have helped me so much!

is this service manual applicable to my hl-t5687sa? It seems like it should be but I thought you might know.

edit - ordered. gonna feel good to replace this part myself.
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post #13041 of 14903 Old 08-05-2009, 08:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by variable114 View Post

you have helped me so much!

is this service manual applicable to my hl-t5687sa? It seems like it should be but I thought you might know.

edit - ordered. gonna feel good to replace this part myself.

You may need this one:
http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT5687S

I'm not really sure.

How long until I stop worrying about my set dying every single time that I turn it on? This forum has made me a nervous wreck about this set!
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post #13042 of 14903 Old 08-05-2009, 10:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

How long until I stop worrying about my set dying every single time that I turn it on? This forum has made me a nervous wreck about this set!

nickel:
Two things: first, this is where folks who have problems come to get help so there is a much higher incidence of posts dealing with problems than is the case in reality; second, your set hasn't crashed yet. There are lots of these sets out there (I have an HLT 6187) and the large majority are not having problems.

Take a deep breath man, relax...

mnilan
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post #13043 of 14903 Old 08-09-2009, 03:54 PM
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I guess it was just a matter of time that my HLT6187S would get the red LED issue. It happened suddenly: the picture went black, but the sound was still on.

Thinking it was the satellite signal, I restarted the sat box and the TV. When the picture returned, the image was greeny-blue. Thinking it was the AVR or HDMI cable, I swapped source to the Wii, which was on AV direct to TV. Still greeny-blue. That pretty much nailed it.

And here we all are with a cluster of red LED problems. If I were to guess at the common cause, it's probably a lack of cooling. She had been crackling post-shutdown a fair bit lately...hmmm, I better check if the internal fans are functional. One thing I might do is augment the local airflow around the back of the TV with a small floor fan.

Anyway, I've ordered the service manual and red LED lamp from samsungparts.com, as opposed to partstore.com. The reason being that the latter did not have the manual. I'll give the repair a try, and generally describe the process (if all goes well).

I've been meaning to get the manual anyway, so I can tackle a months-long-standing problem: a crack in the screen. Yes, it was a Wii-related incident. And yes, I was wearing the strap. But that 's another story.

UPDATE: 8/10. SamsungParts.com had no red LED lamps in stock. To their credit, we got a call saying that the part was 2-3 weeks back-ordered. Canceled order and switched over to PartStore.com. Keeping fingers crossed that they do not have same problem.
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post #13044 of 14903 Old 08-10-2009, 05:18 AM
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I had the red LED go out in the same way you describe back in december, about a month before the warranty ran out. The samsung tech guy (only one in the area) came out and looked at it. He ordered the red LED and came out to do the replacement. I am glad I was here for it though. He almost broke the black box that the LEDs are attached to trying to get it apart. He said he should have taken a look at the service manual before coming out with the new part (duh). I am pretty good at fixing things and I was watching him pry on the box to take it apart. I pointed out the way to get the red LED out just from looking at the assembly and saved him breaking it. I plan on getting the service manual and fixing the TV myself if anything else goes out on it. I mean if I can build my own pc as well as repair my car and other things around the house I should be able to read the service manual like he should have. Oh, I also had to go back into it later on a couple weeks later and clean the lense that the leds project through. He had dropped a hair from a brush on it when servicing the tv and then plucked it off with the tip of his finger. I had a smudge that would appear on a light background scene for a bit until I got tired of it and took it back apart to clean properly.
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post #13045 of 14903 Old 08-12-2009, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickels55 View Post

You may need this one:
http://www.samsungparts.com/part_det...model=HLT5687S

I'm not really sure.

How long until I stop worrying about my set dying every single time that I turn it on? This forum has made me a nervous wreck about this set!

I bought the other one and it was applicable.

IT WORKED! so thankful to this forum. my tv is back to normal now and this forum saved me almost $800. crazy.

now I am deciding whether to get my virtually free re-calibration. I don't know that I need it but I'd like to be sure.
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post #13046 of 14903 Old 08-13-2009, 11:23 AM
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I have the 87, bought it in Feb of 08 and the picture went black in June 09. Best Buy warranty has relaced the Lighting engine and the PCB. Didnt even work a full day w/o the screen going black again. Sound is fine though, now I am getting another PCB and something to do w/ the pwr supply. If this doesnt work I don't know what else is going to happen. I really loved my TV prior to this, thank God I bought the warranty from Best Buy. I know I can't get a replacement since they dont make the TV anymore. I hope this works....
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post #13047 of 14903 Old 08-13-2009, 11:26 AM
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Bought my 5087 about a year and a half ago and and have just started seeing a disturbing picture anomaly starting to raise its ugly head. It occurs more frequently and with more intensity as time goes by and only when viewing programs via Dish Satellite HDMI'd thru my Onkyo 7.1 amp. It appears as a pixelated or "graphed" gradation of color that one might expect to see on a patchwork bed spread but unfortunately it is in the sky or on the face of a close-up. What is this and how does one try to fix it. Tried recalibrating and that seemed to help a little but did not rid me of the problem... just its severity.
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post #13048 of 14903 Old 08-13-2009, 02:59 PM
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snnud,

Have you tried connecting your TV directly to the Dish receiver via HDMI to rule out any video issues on your Onkyo?
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post #13049 of 14903 Old 08-14-2009, 10:38 PM
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Follow-up to my original post here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post16971585

After a day's delay because of a backlog on red LEDs, the repairs commenced. It took about 3 hours, with some time spent exploring the TV's internals, but it was completed. The tomatoes are no longer blue. Here are some cautions, tips, and pictures that could be useful.

CAUTIONS

1. It helps to be have prior experience with, say PC building or repair. It can be daunting to stare at the various connectors, cables, and what-not otherwise. And as anyone who's dived into a PC knows: There Will Be Dust!

2. The manual (on a CD) is not a cookbook. It appears to be set up to aid with some interactive technician training, meaning the technician already knows what he or she needs to do. There are only general steps and pictures, but the level of detail is not impressive. It's also not obviously sequential. Each step seems to be tailored to a specific goal, like changing out a DMD board, but it's not straightforward on what the preceding steps should be.

3. BIG CAUTION: The replacement LED may not have thermal compound backing - mine did not. The original one does - a gooey gray paste that is squeezed between the LED's back side and the copper heat pipe and finned heat sink. PC builders use this stuff to help heat conduction between a PC's CPU and its heat sink. I happened to have a tube of Arctic Silver handy. For PC builders, it's recommended that only a thin layer of compound should be used - I'm going by that practice. It bothered me a little to see how thick the compound was layered on the original heat sink.

So there's is a BIG RISK here if you do not have thermal compound (or in my case, if Arctic Silver is not appropriate to use; I'm keeping fingers and toes crossed).

4. Be mindful of what connectors you're removing, and of the internal cable routing - there are more than a few interferences and chances to snag wires.

5. There are some fan covers that make you wonder, what the heck are these for? They seem like afterthoughts, but I think they do assist in directing what airflow is available.

6. Finger-tight is just fine. No need to over-torque, big guy.

TIPS

1. Take (digital) pictures before each step. This will help you remember what the area looked like before you demolished it.

2. The CD from partstore.com was unlabelled, and the manual was a series of PDFs. If you don't want to print a lot of pages to get the color pics, load the CD onto a laptop, and view from there.

3. Tools needed:

a. Philips head screwdriver - preferably magnetic tip, to avoid losing screws.
b. Can of air - to blow out dust concentrations on fan tips, heat sink, etc. Do keep dust away from the obvious optics.
c. Thermal compound (see previous).
d. An old hotel key card, to scrape off the old thermal compound from the heat sink contact surface, and some isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) to clean the surface.
e. Your brain - maintain a presence of mind to group screws removed, and orientation of various covers.

4. Finally, DON'T PANIC. Panic will have you dropping screws, acting hastily, and next thing you know, something breaks.

PICS

Here's the Flickr stream of pics, presented in general sequence. The pictures have some notes. My wife told me I took too many pictures of elk in Yellowstone. Thus, I'm being judicious about what to present...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/4146111...7621917760677/

Anyway, let me know if the link doesn't work, or other suggestions to improve this post.

FINAL THOUGHTS... For Now.

I think I can see why the red LED went out first. It's furthest away from the main heat sink bay, and even though it had its own dedicated, but small (~50? mm), fan, there's a limited air exchange that probably leads to heat buildup. In general, all the fans sound like they run at low RPM, to minimize noise. In my opinion, in its original state, this design does not lend itself to longevity, despite the advertised long life of the LED engine. The case stands to have a few more ventilation openings. There's a mod in this TV's future.

Until the next repair!
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post #13050 of 14903 Old 08-14-2009, 11:22 PM
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rusty4x4,

The text and pictures could come in very handy. Thanks for the great write-up.
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