2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 496 - AVS Forum
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post #14851 of 14892 Old 04-21-2014, 06:49 AM
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Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

You are so right there. I looked around a bit and my set still has superior picture quality than anything I saw and it is now 7 years old. What a waste that Samsung didn't continue to develop this model.

Yup...My elderly neighbors just asked me to setup up their new LED set. After getting the set all hooked up, I messed with the picture for almost an hour and I still was not happy with it. (They were very happy though since they were upgrading from a 8-10 year old dimming plasma). With Panasonic and Samsung killing off plasmas, I don't know what I'm going to do when HLT-6187 can't be fixed anymore.
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post #14852 of 14892 Old 04-24-2014, 07:05 PM
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Well if this doesn't SUCK!!! I successfully replace the Red LED last Friday and the picture went back to as good as the day I brought it. Well IT WENT OUT AGAIN TONIGHT!!!! I sent a email to the supplier, but this is ********!! :-(
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post #14853 of 14892 Old 04-25-2014, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kartographer View Post

Well if this doesn't SUCK!!! I successfully replace the Red LED last Friday and the picture went back to as good as the day I brought it. Well IT WENT OUT AGAIN TONIGHT!!!! I sent a email to the supplier, but this is ********!! :-(

Painful, sorry. Do you think it was a defective replacement Red LED, or something worse? Please let us know where you bought it and if they are going to replace it for you hassle free. Good luck!
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post #14854 of 14892 Old 04-25-2014, 08:22 AM
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Looks like I am going to get a refund and not a replacement. I ordered it on Amazon/Order Parts Today.

It must be a bad chip as I replaced it last Friday afternoon and it fired right up with no problems. Last night we were watching a old Hawaii 5-O and suddenly the screen became dim and then no red. Everything else is fine. I am ordering another chip today from a different supplier, but with the weekend and work it will most likely be a week of NO RED.
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post #14855 of 14892 Old 04-28-2014, 04:56 PM
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I got the replacement LED today and just finished installing it and everything is working fine. I double check the fans before I replaced the LED and after and all fans are working fine. The picture is the bad LED as you can see I didn't over load the Arctic Silver and in fact it was still tacky from over a week ago so I don't see how the chip could have possible gone bad because of overheating. My conclusion is it had to be a bad chip.
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post #14856 of 14892 Old 05-05-2014, 12:39 PM
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Well I just tried to call Samsung Canada and didn't get very far. Best they could offer me are free parts which the technician said was worth $10.00. and that was only if I paid for a tech to come out and prove that it was the capacitor.

I understand their not obligated to do anything but the entire experience has put me off Samsung. I've had the red LED go, white dot issue, capacitors and all in the span of Five and a half years. I've had my sharp for 8 and never had one problem.

Rant done.
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post #14857 of 14892 Old 05-08-2014, 02:02 PM
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I have a T5687-sax that has been a good set until about the past week... I noticed a white dot on the screen and read over some posts here and thought I had a stuck mirror.. When I looked at the dot closer, it is flickering, so now I am not sure what the problem is. Can someone give me some insight on this issue. Is there any chance I can get a part of the class action law suit at this point in time.
Thanks
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post #14858 of 14892 Old 05-08-2014, 03:47 PM
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I bet the mirror has come loose and is flopping in the "wind". Unlikely you can get it tied down.
Trying to find the one in a million would be hard. I think the chance of a class action has passed.
My T5687 has a hard time starting up. I'm just leaving it on "forever" or until the power goes out.
Oh, I did the red LED successfully but left a finger print on the lens that is just a little annoying.
Good Luck, Ken
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post #14859 of 14892 Old 05-08-2014, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KKlare View Post

I bet the mirror has come loose and is flopping in the "wind". Unlikely you can get it tied down.
Trying to find the one in a million would be hard. I think the chance of a class action has passed.
My T5687 has a hard time starting up. I'm just leaving it on "forever" or until the power goes out.
Oh, I did the red LED successfully but left a finger print on the lens that is just a little annoying.
Good Luck, Ken

Ok so I am looking at replacing the DLP chip then? I did a visual check of the caps and they look good. I am not sure putting money into this set is a wise investment of my time and money.
I do still like the set and the picture is great besides the annoying white flickering dot! eek.gif I am kicking myself for not sending in my warrantee card when I bought the set. I didn't know about the law suit until it was too late.
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post #14860 of 14892 Old 05-08-2014, 11:10 PM
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If you could find the particular mirror then removing it, however you could, would be much less annoying.
Maybe a wide-field microscope (moderate mag, even 10X) would show where. Any position change could eliminate it.
Don't think the warrantee would have helped. Something about ~10 dark or 1 bright pixel allowed.
-Ken
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post #14861 of 14892 Old 05-12-2014, 10:54 AM
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Two weeks now and the RED led replacement for the replacement is still working. I did get a refund for the bad first replacement. Now if I can get a couple more years out of it I will be happy!
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post #14862 of 14892 Old 05-21-2014, 03:57 AM
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I took off for 3+ days so I turned off the HLT5687 from my several week always-on routine.
Mistake, sure enough it won't start up again. I may have to go look inside at the caps.
I'd hate to spend even $500 for a smaller LED backlit LCD but I spent $2500 on this--that was then.
Then what? When do I just declare it dead? It swings from no front-panel light on to all flashing.
Oh, I guess if I ever do get it on again I really will just leave it on, forever.
-Ken
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post #14863 of 14892 Old 05-22-2014, 07:40 PM
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I might try the capacitor repair--still need to check--if I could get a kit of them.
Advice on checking and anything else to look for appreciated.
Otherwise my 7-year companion hits the salvage and I look at the current crop.
-Ken
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post #14864 of 14892 Old 05-23-2014, 09:58 AM
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HL-T6187 SEARCHING FOR SIGNAL PROBLEM
I'm really hoping someone else has had this problem and knows how to solve it.
When my HL-T6187 is first turned on in the morning, the Searching For Signal screen flashes for 2.5 minutes before the picture displays.
During the day, when it's turned on after being off for an hour or two, the picture displays more quickly, usually less than a minute.
The picture source is the Xfinity X1 box.
In the X1 box Device Settings, Output Resolution is set to 1080P60
A TV guy told me it might be an HDMI handshake problem, and that a firmware update might solve the issue.
The current firmware version is 1008, dated 2007-09-19.
I've downloaded the latest firmware dated Apr 17 2008, but I'm pretty happy with the picture -- when it finally displays -- so I don't want to update the firmware if that might affect my picture but not solve the Searching For Signal problem.
Any suggestions ? ? ?
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post #14865 of 14892 Old 05-23-2014, 01:27 PM
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Well I sent off for 5 of the 2200uF 25V radial (1 end) caps, $15. Holiday means it will take a week thru Amazon.
2-day ship=$140. I could get 35V axial ones from RS but I'd have to clear at least 2 stores 40 miles away at $5 each.
Sure hope this is the only problem. Yes, these are bulging on the left-side-from-front board--each rounded on top.
And no I could not get it to start after repeated trials and it's even hard to turn "off" the front LEDs. -Ken
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post #14866 of 14892 Old 05-29-2014, 05:00 PM
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I'm having the power on issues. No picture, even after unplugging now. So I ordered a new power board for a good price instead of trying to replace capacitors. I assumed there would be YouTube videos to help me along, but can't find any for the HLT-6187S or similar models. I found one that seemed a lot different from my TV. I also tried searching this thread and found nothing. Does anyone have a good link for this or head me in the right direction? Wanna get the TV back up and running ASAP. Not that my 31 inch CRT isn't stunning or anything... :rolleyes:

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post #14867 of 14892 Old 05-29-2014, 06:05 PM
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The capacitors came a day earlier (today) than the shipper suggested as the earliest. They are 1/2 inch diameter, the old were or expanded to 5/8" for identical ratings.
De-framed the board (2 screws), old ones out with a little touch of the iron, clean the holes, insert new, solder each, re-frame, and reconnect ground, dual power lead, and multi-pin control. Turn on, blank screen. I don't seem to be able to turn off, finally goes into error 3-LED mode, it thinks it is bad and is no better than none lit.

Guess I missed the Memorial Day sales that I still couldn't afford.

Can any of you-all help? This like testing tubes in ~1957.
-Ken
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post #14868 of 14892 Old 05-29-2014, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vicconius View Post

I'm having the power on issues. No picture, even after unplugging now. So I ordered a new power board for a good price instead of trying to replace capacitors. I assumed there would be YouTube videos to help me along, but can't find any for the HLT-6187S or similar models. I found one that seemed a lot different from my TV. I also tried searching this thread and found nothing. Does anyone have a good link for this or head me in the right direction? Wanna get the TV back up and running ASAP. Not that my 31 inch CRT isn't stunning or anything... rolleyes.gif
On my T5687 there are 2 screws to remove the left-seen-from-front panel to view the caps and 9 more to remove the whole back panel across the chassis. Then there are 2 screws holding the power board in a groove. They are all the same size, good idea. Two more brass-colored to remove power board from its frame. As noted and from memory there are 3 cables to the board--here is where I could have messed up as it was open for a week. Putting the caps in reverse would mess up things too. These caps has open ovals on one side I take to be the negative side. The old ones had pluses on one side. Reversing would be bad. I'm sure the board was a lot more cost than just the caps but if it worked (seems it didn't) then that cost would be justified. BTW I'm using a 19" LCD 1080 Magnavox, several years old--real hard to read small print unless you get very close.
It acts now like it did with bad caps.
-Ken
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post #14869 of 14892 Old 06-06-2014, 01:56 PM
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Somewhere it was mentioned there are 5 other caps. The board on the right (viewed from the front) does have say 3 more of these same caps (2200uF 25V) and several other sizes. All look well--no obvious bulges. Do I have to replace these too and down to what capacitor rating? Am I missing another set? Got to get this going or replace it for a lot less cost than the original, say $650 vs $2500 after upgrade.

I would never go for color wheel after using the LED set. I really like the picture, when there, and the cost if only a repair. What percentage of 2007 owners are still here? Are owners migrating to 4K sets with no transmitted signals for them?
-Ken
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post #14870 of 14892 Old 06-07-2014, 06:29 AM
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My guess is that a great number of folks have moved on. Samsung gave me a reasonable upgrade price in January of 2013. However, I am still subscribed to this thread.



You mention 5 caps. On the power board you talk about 5 Caps. I see at least 8.

Is this the other board you are referring to?



If so, that is the power sub board for the LEDs.
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post #14871 of 14892 Old 06-07-2014, 06:38 AM
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When I read this, I could see that a problem on the LED driver board could cause the symptoms that you are facing. hopefully, you are not paying much for the Caps. Digikey and Mouser are sources that I have used in the past when I need components versus "parts."

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post #14872 of 14892 Old 06-07-2014, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KKlare View Post


What percentage of 2007 owners are still here?

I don't know about the percentage, but I am still here. My first set was stolen a couple of months after purchase. The replacement was dead out of the box. it exhibited the cycling power LED blinking. The warranty replacement set has been performing fine ever since.

Alan Oliver
Tivo user since May 2000
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post #14873 of 14892 Old 06-12-2014, 09:34 AM
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Still here too. My set is still working great, and really it's hard to beat in term of quality - especially to play video games (need the game mode). No ghosting possible whatsoever is great.
I also play a 3D BR once in a while with a mitsubishi adapter I got on the cheap (an old model I got as "open-box" that can be made to ignore the TV brand through some button press combinations).

The day the TV will die, I'll likely try to fix it for $200 or less. Anything more, I'll move on. As I build electronic kits... as a hobby, if I get lucky and only has to fix a power board, I'll try that first.

For the person replacing the capacitors. If these are electrolytic caps, they are polarized. Do not put them in the wrong direction (polarity) or they will explode. That used to be "fun in electronics class" in the days for me :-)
They should not cause any fire, but will make the noise of a firecracker/small handgun, AND will be propelled with such energy that they can damage other components in the TV.

mouser, digikey... all good :-)
Get the same type of capacitor (like electrolytics, ceramic...) as the old component was, with the same capacity rating. The only one you can change is the voltage. You can go with a higher voltage rating, but never lower.
so say 50V 2,200micro Farads, you could use 125V 2,200micro Farads. The only thing is to make sure that the new cap would fit the board.


good luck.
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post #14874 of 14892 Old 06-14-2014, 07:05 PM
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My first pass at capacitor problems on HLT5687 was to replace the 2200uF's on the SUB board with direct replacements. They needed it, only slight bulges! It was then in the no start mode after turning off for 3 days.
These were thru Amazon: 5x 2200uf 25v Capacitor 105c High Temp, Radial Leads by Ness Electronics. I then read more and for a general replacement I went to a kit from HobbyMods. It said 19 caps, solder wick (used 1/4 inch of 6 or more), and solder. Kit is for LCDs apparently. The 4 2200uF were 10V rating but our set had 25V ones. Tried anyway.

Second stage repair, there were no more high value caps on the sub board. The power board did have 3 more 2200 at 25V and 1 at 16V. So I used this kit for them despite the voltage rating. Replaced some 1000uF 25V with same although all looked good. There was 1 1000uF 35V on the main board inside the cage, used a 25V one. Numerous smaller caps with no replacements and no signs of trouble, so had to leave them as there are none in the kit.

Well, as kind of expected, the set will not start up--I have no chimes nor blue light as I turned those off a long time ago and without a display I would not try to change that. I do go to LED start, much later to flashing, and it's hard to stop that short of unplugging. I do get to no lights but still no picture with a long hold on the power button.

It's like there is a wire or connector missing still but don't see how. I guess I have to give up and find the money for something better in someways but inferior in picture quality, perhaps. The only good news is that prices have dropped a lot in the last couple of years. The cheap 4K would be interesting in the $600 range but it is still an LCD.

As to cap polarity, I learned that the usually white semicircle on the board is the negative as is the stripe on the side of the caps for those without minus signs.

I did see that as pictured in post 14870 that of 2 big black caps one had been replace sometime--long ago.

-Ken

Last edited by KKlare; 06-14-2014 at 07:19 PM.
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post #14875 of 14892 Old 06-15-2014, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dengland View Post
When I read this, I could see that a problem on the LED driver board could cause the symptoms that you are facing. hopefully, you are not paying much for the Caps. Digikey and Mouser are sources that I have used in the past when I need components versus "parts."
I finally realized what you said. Yes, the symptoms exactly fit having no LED drives. Does anyone have voltages for the LED power "sub" board? Maybe it could be resurrected. The set went out before I replaced the caps there (and they needed it) but that might have been the final blow. Should I look for a schematic and other description? Probably where I should have started. Worse comes to worse, I might have to back out those under-voltage caps on the power supply board--kept all the originals. (Total expense so far, $14+$20 plus my time.)
-Ken

P.S. Well I Googled and found free schematics. Minimal narrative text in 143 pages. Nice color pictures and even flowchart for service.
<http://elektrotanya.com/samsung_hlt5687s.pdf/download.html>
Now that's a lot to work over and will find what I need to make it work? Don't know yet. -K

Last edited by KKlare; 06-15-2014 at 05:46 AM.
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post #14876 of 14892 Old 06-16-2014, 02:36 PM
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I have an HLT5087, and just 2 days ago, I started to get the "3 flashing LED's on the front, plus a white light flashing under the large on/off button when the TV is off. When I turn it on, all lights go out like normal and the TV works fine. Service manual says it's either the LED driver PCB or the Sub Board. Caps look OK on sub board. Is this an indication of a board going bad, but not dead yet?
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post #14877 of 14892 Old 06-16-2014, 03:18 PM
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Cannot tell how long you will have but if sub-power board caps look good and it turns on, enjoy it while you can. You can turn of the light behind the front button if you wish.
The only precursor of trouble was that it would sometimes take a couple of tries to light up. I treated blinking LEDs as just an occasional startup failure, maybe 1 of 100 times. Now it is 100%.
Of course, this is after having to replace the red LED a year ago or more. I would not have looked for bad caps then. I know the red LED got hard use from being in the warm mode, which puts more current through the red. Enough to burn up the leads on the chip. Warm was recommended by the calibrators on this board as giving the most accurate coloring and being least torch-like.
I've yet to get down to voltage checks of the sub board. Would you believe that 143 page service manual does not explain the DMD acronym but uses it many, many times. Nor why the processor is an Albatross.
-Ken

Last edited by KKlare; 06-16-2014 at 03:26 PM.
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post #14878 of 14892 Old 06-16-2014, 07:10 PM
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Okay, I replaced the power board and cleaned the inside of the set. Replacing the power board was easy. But when I restart my TV, it doesn't want to restart. When cold, the first start usually results in no picture and it hangs and green light blinks until it just shuts itself off. Second power up just hangs. So I uplug it and then it usually starts. Once it is warmed up, then I can shut it on and off no problem. Any ideas? Was perhaps something else damaged by the old power supply? On the old power supply, 4 capacitors were bulged on the top. New power supply is supposed to be new and the capacitors look perfect. Driving me crazy.
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post #14879 of 14892 Old 06-17-2014, 05:19 PM
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I was reading some earlier posts about some people attaching a Thermaltake Mobile 12 USB powered fan to the side vent by the sub board and LED's to provide extra cooling. Did you plug it into the set's USB port or a USB wall adapter for power?
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post #14880 of 14892 Old 06-18-2014, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr5 View Post
I was reading some earlier posts about some people attaching a Thermaltake Mobile 12 USB powered fan to the side vent by the sub board and LED's to provide extra cooling. Did you plug it into the set's USB port or a USB wall adapter for power?
There are three choices: AC to USB adapter, powered USB hub, or set's USB port.

Since I had a powered USB hub close to my set, I used it. There isn't much load from a fan but my thought was why stress the old electronics more than necessary. On the plus side, using the set's USB port means that the fan only ran when the set was on. Since my powered hub is connected to a smart power strip, it only ran when my AV receiver was on. It shut down about a minute after the receiver was powered off giving that extra cooling time, which was a plus.

Last edited by JRWalker; 06-19-2014 at 07:03 AM.
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