2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 497 - AVS Forum
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post #14881 of 14892 Old 06-18-2014, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by randyr5 View Post
I was reading some earlier posts about some people attaching a Thermaltake Mobile 12 USB powered fan to the side vent by the sub board and LED's to provide extra cooling. Did you plug it into the set's USB port or a USB wall adapter for power?
The fan uses very little power (4v and under 100mA I believe), and I've had mine hooked up to the TV's USB port since 2010. It works great this way, as it goes on and off with the TV's power.
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post #14882 of 14892 Old 06-18-2014, 10:00 AM
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Thanks JRWalker and justlou. I will probably use the TV's USB for now.
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post #14883 of 14892 Old 06-19-2014, 06:54 PM
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On my HLT5087 purchased in March 2008, I am on my third red LED. The 2 bad ones were replaced under an extended Mack warranty that I bought for $105, so I made out on that. I replaced the DLP chip about a year ago, from a 6103 to a 6143. The old one only had one white dot, but it was right in the middle of the screen and it drove me nuts. The picture is stellar right now. Now I have the three flashing LED's on the front panel when the set is off, but it is working fine right now. I might go ahead and replace the caps on the 2 power boards.

My brother has owned a HLT6187 since January of 2008 and has had zero problems.

Looks like I missed the boat on the settlement, or is Samsung still doing exchanges?

Last edited by randyr5; 06-20-2014 at 07:29 AM.
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post #14884 of 14892 Old 06-20-2014, 01:31 PM
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OK, I swapped out my sub power board and the LED driver board (HLT5087SAX/XAA). Still getting the flashing LED's when set is turned off. It turns on fine, there is no delay in attaining a picture, and the picture is perfect. Any suggestions? Should I check the main power board? It is delivering the correct voltage to the sub board (323VDC). Thanks...
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post #14885 of 14892 Old 06-25-2014, 03:32 PM
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I was just checking some of the output voltages on my sub power board. There are 3 pins marked 16V and 1 marked 12v. These are the pins that get connected to the LED driver board. The 16V pins are reading 13.8v. Is that normal? The service manual isn't much help on this. Thanks...
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post #14886 of 14892 Old 07-03-2014, 08:21 AM
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Are the 3 cooling fans specific to the TV (HLT5087) or will any 3-wire PC fan of the same size work?
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post #14887 of 14892 Old 07-13-2014, 07:09 AM
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These are off the shelf fans. You should find a sticker on the fan blade hub with the manufacturer and specs.
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post #14888 of 14892 Old 08-19-2014, 05:19 AM
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Hank,

Glad when I can help.

You can do for me as Rodney suggests http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bd37uQZJpwQ in the form of a thumbs up.

Jim
Jim, that Rodney Dangerfield bit was hilarious. I hereby give you "One uh deese!"
Well, I finally have a problem with my HLT6187. All of a sudden there are about a dozen little white spots that are probably the dead/stuck mirror problem. I'll search this thread for replacement instructions and part number to order from Shop Jimmy. My red LED is still working after all these years, but as I posted before, I have a replacement ready for that fateful day. I do have Arctic Silver that I bought with the replacement red LED. As long as I'm going to replace the DMD, I'll look at the electrolytic capacitors and if I see any bad ones, they'll be on a specific board, correct? What is the value and voltage of those that are prone to failure? I want to order some replacements in case I find some bulging ones. Thanks again to Jim and the other guys who stick around to advise on repairs.

Last edited by Hank; 08-19-2014 at 05:22 AM.
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post #14889 of 14892 Old 08-20-2014, 12:31 PM
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Hank,


Thanks for your "One uh deese!". They are always appreciated.


You can check the Sub-Power board behind the small back access door for the most often failed caps. This can be done without removing back of set. Pictures and caution in earlier posts. If you see any bulging caps replace them all on the Sub-Power board while you are at it.


Others have posted about capacitor replacement kits available. Believe one has 5 and another 19. Don't have sources or values at hand but scan back in the thread and you will find them. Also, I assume that you have seen the post about the DMD video and the importance of cleaning the fans and accumulated dust. That will extent life of LEDs and electronics. Also, carefully clean the lens and mirror when you replace the DMD. Cleaning those will improve picture quality and are worth doing.


Jim
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post #14890 of 14892 Old 08-23-2014, 04:42 PM
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I have a dead hlt6187sxx and found a used model with the exact model and version as well The only thing is its 50". Im almost certain it has the same main board and DMD , etc.. But just wanted to make sure. I want the parts from the TV to Frankensamsungy mine back to life. Should I be good to go with interchangeability?
Thx in advance!
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post #14891 of 14892 Old 08-25-2014, 09:07 PM
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Haven't looked on here in a few years, but thought I'd catch up since my set is now exhibiting the black shadow line on the left hand side. I'm going to attempt the adjustment fix posted in here and see if that works. I read elsewhere that it was something about the light box collapsing, but not sure what that's all about.

I have the 6189 model, which was an extended warranty replacement for a 2005 62" Mitsu DLP that had far too many issues in the 3 years I owned it. It's been a GREAT TV up until this black line thing. No LED, on/off issues. I agree with most that the picture quality is outstanding. When I'm in stores, I just don't see the same pop and detail that this set offers. I really don't want to grab another set just yet. Most of what I see out there doesn't have the matte non-glare screen, and reflections but the crap out of me. Although the Sharp 70" 4k set looks pretty good...

If anyone has any new info about the black line, please chime in. I'm curious to know what's really causing it and it will be a few days before I can pull the panel off.
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post #14892 of 14892 Old Today, 12:39 PM
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I was able to make the picture adjustment to get rid of the shadow on the left, but noticed that the black capacitors appear leaky and swollen on the board facing out on the left side of the screen.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
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