2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 499 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14941 of 14956 Old 07-01-2015, 08:54 AM
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I recently had the white dot issue.. purchased a new DMD, replaced it.. all seemed ok...

But now, i am noticing vertical bands in the image when i'm on various sources.. xbox, ps4 etc.. but not all the time.. seems to be hit or miss..

They are faint.. hard to see, but they repeat in a patter across the screen (black in color and banded)..

Has anyone experienced this?

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post #14942 of 14956 Old 07-25-2015, 05:07 PM
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Screen no longer coming on.

So I have had my Samsung LED DLP just sitting in a spare room for awhile now in hopes some day to be able to repair it. Before the current issue I had successfully replaced the DMD chip and it worked great for about another 8 months. The issue I am running into now is that the screen will no longer come on. This is what I have done and noticed so far. I plug it in, and hear a click as if it recognizes the power, the fans come on. It has a red led on in the bottom right corner. I press the power button and the screen acts as if it wants to try to come on, like the back light or whatever is trying. The green led blink 4 times and then the screen goes completely blank, leds are blank, but the fans are still going. I get no menu items or volume menu or anything during those 4 led blinks. Any one have an idea what this could be?
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post #14943 of 14956 Old 07-31-2015, 08:30 PM
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You might try looking at the Sub Led Power board.
It is mounted on the right side looking from back.
It will have 4 or 5 capacitors in a row that will leak black stuff or get puffed up
(slight dome) on top.
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post #14944 of 14956 Old 08-02-2015, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
You might try looking at the Sub Led Power board.
It is mounted on the right side looking from back.
It will have 4 or 5 capacitors in a row that will leak black stuff or get puffed up
(slight dome) on top.
I think that could be the issue...So, anyone know what the part number for that board is? Would it be wise to try soldering on a new capacitor?
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post #14945 of 14956 Old 08-02-2015, 10:49 PM
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Yeah I can see from the pics, the board would either not work at all or take a long time to
come on or shut off after a while.
you can get caps from ebay or other places as long as you know how to solder.
make sure you get them turned the right way as far as the stripe down the side.
Your board is "Sub Led Board, BP96-01726A (MON192P)"
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post #14946 of 14956 Old 08-03-2015, 06:03 PM
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Ok, so I replaced that one cap and still same issue. Should I try replacing the rest of the caps before giving up on it?
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post #14947 of 14956 Old 08-03-2015, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AODfan View Post
Ok, so I replaced that one cap and still same issue. Should I try replacing the rest of the caps before giving up on it?
Replace them all.
After that if it does not work, check and see if you are getting
the 12 and 16 volts on the grey cable.
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post #14948 of 14956 Old 08-03-2015, 10:47 PM
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I would replace them all.
You should be getting 12 and 16 volts a terminals for grey cable.
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post #14949 of 14956 Old 08-03-2015, 10:49 PM
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I would replace all of them. if it does not work try checking to and see if
you are getting 12 and 16 volts on grey cable.
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post #14950 of 14956 Old 08-17-2015, 12:56 PM
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Not bragging but wanted to report that my Samsung HLT 5087 is going on 7 - 8 years old now and have never had a problem with it - no LED issues whatsoever. I admit the entertainment center it is housed in is very open (good air flow and heat dissipation) and I do open the back occasionally and vacuum out the dust from the circuit boards and fans. Maybe I just got lucky but so far so good (knock on wood)
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post #14951 of 14956 Old 08-23-2015, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by eelecurb View Post
Not bragging but wanted to report that my Samsung HLT 5087 is going on 7 - 8 years old now and have never had a problem with it - no LED issues whatsoever. I admit the entertainment center it is housed in is very open (good air flow and heat dissipation) and I do open the back occasionally and vacuum out the dust from the circuit boards and fans. Maybe I just got lucky but so far so good (knock on wood)
Congrats, hope you continue to have good luck.

I replaced the red LED in my 6187 about 2 years in. Then a couple years after that I had to replace the DLP chip. Thankfully I was able to DIY both repairs - these sets are easy to work on and parts are readily available. I've also added the Mitsubishi 3D kit (hacked the set's EDID), and have been enjoying 3D material for the last few years - the promise of forward-compatibility with 3D material was the main reason I bought the Samsung over the competing Sony unit back in '07.

Overall (in no small part thanks to AVS and this thread in particular) I'd say I've had my money's worth out of this set. Eight+ years of service out of a TV is an eon these days. Even though Samsung didn't support us customers on the various problems, or on 3D support, things worked out for me in the end. I still love the PQ on this set, and we have put THOUSANDS of hours on it. But I doubt I'll buy another set from Samsung...
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post #14952 of 14956 Old 08-26-2015, 11:07 AM
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I have the HLT6187S. For the past month or so, whenever I turn on the TV from a cold start it has a flicker/flash on the screen. The screen works but the ficker/flash is quite distracting. If I turn the TV off, wait a few seconds, and turn back on it fixes it. Sometimes it fixes it the first time, sometimes I have to turn the TV off and on several times for it to go away. Once it goes away it is fine until I turn if off again for an extended period.

Anyone have any thoughts about what it might be or how to troubleshoot further?
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post #14953 of 14956 Old 08-31-2015, 07:47 AM
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Suddenly, 3 months after replacing the dmd chip.. my 6187 seems to be suffering from the "searching for signal" "no signal" pink screen/blue screen glitches.. momentarily the signal is lost.. doesnt matter if its ps4, x1 or the htpc.. i havent ruled out a bad hdmi port on the tv or the receiver just yet (receiver is avr-1912), but just curious if anyone else had this and had a quick fix?

Thanks in advance

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post #14954 of 14956 Old 08-31-2015, 08:45 AM
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not shutting down completely

how did the power cord wiggle trick work?
I shut off mine using the power bar.
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post #14955 of 14956 Old 09-01-2015, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barlav View Post
I have the HLT6187S. For the past month or so, whenever I turn on the TV from a cold start it has a flicker/flash on the screen. The screen works but the ficker/flash is quite distracting. If I turn the TV off, wait a few seconds, and turn back on it fixes it. Sometimes it fixes it the first time, sometimes I have to turn the TV off and on several times for it to go away. Once it goes away it is fine until I turn if off again for an extended period.

Anyone have any thoughts about what it might be or how to troubleshoot further?
Actually, mine is starting this flicker as well.. take out all cables in my case, blue screen, you can still see it flicker.. i thought it was related to my dmd swap, but maybe not.. very curious why.. i was getting a pink/bluescreen no signal, searching etc at times too, though now i think its mutated into a slight flicker every 10 seconds

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post #14956 of 14956 Old Today, 04:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JDCrosshatch View Post
OK Here is what I found: 1) A slightly bulging cap on Sub Pwr Sup board (CM860 2200uf 25V)
2) A broken small diode on the underside of the LED Driver board (D9000). I also vacuumed everything out-not too much dust...
After I re-assembled the set-powered it up just to make sure everything still works-the red seemed to be at a normal level-but WB adjustment still seemed to not do anything... I don't want to run the set w/ a bulging cap,so it's out of service for now,until I can replace it. Thanks for the help,now to start hunting for a good source for replacements-I remember seeing something about that earlier in this thread. Will post updates.
I ordered 5 replacement caps from Parts Express-replaced the bulging one. Also replaced the diode with a larger one,re assembled everything and it works! The white balance does not go through the full range that it did-but it gets close enough for a good picture.Hope it holds together for a while,still a better pix then most newer sets. Knock on wood!

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