2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 499 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #14941 of 15029 Old 07-25-2015, 05:07 PM
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Screen no longer coming on.

So I have had my Samsung LED DLP just sitting in a spare room for awhile now in hopes some day to be able to repair it. Before the current issue I had successfully replaced the DMD chip and it worked great for about another 8 months. The issue I am running into now is that the screen will no longer come on. This is what I have done and noticed so far. I plug it in, and hear a click as if it recognizes the power, the fans come on. It has a red led on in the bottom right corner. I press the power button and the screen acts as if it wants to try to come on, like the back light or whatever is trying. The green led blink 4 times and then the screen goes completely blank, leds are blank, but the fans are still going. I get no menu items or volume menu or anything during those 4 led blinks. Any one have an idea what this could be?
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post #14942 of 15029 Old 07-31-2015, 08:30 PM
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You might try looking at the Sub Led Power board.
It is mounted on the right side looking from back.
It will have 4 or 5 capacitors in a row that will leak black stuff or get puffed up
(slight dome) on top.
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post #14943 of 15029 Old 08-02-2015, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
You might try looking at the Sub Led Power board.
It is mounted on the right side looking from back.
It will have 4 or 5 capacitors in a row that will leak black stuff or get puffed up
(slight dome) on top.
I think that could be the issue...So, anyone know what the part number for that board is? Would it be wise to try soldering on a new capacitor?
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post #14944 of 15029 Old 08-02-2015, 10:49 PM
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Yeah I can see from the pics, the board would either not work at all or take a long time to
come on or shut off after a while.
you can get caps from ebay or other places as long as you know how to solder.
make sure you get them turned the right way as far as the stripe down the side.
Your board is "Sub Led Board, BP96-01726A (MON192P)"
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post #14945 of 15029 Old 08-03-2015, 06:03 PM
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Ok, so I replaced that one cap and still same issue. Should I try replacing the rest of the caps before giving up on it?
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post #14946 of 15029 Old 08-03-2015, 10:44 PM
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Originally Posted by AODfan View Post
Ok, so I replaced that one cap and still same issue. Should I try replacing the rest of the caps before giving up on it?
Replace them all.
After that if it does not work, check and see if you are getting
the 12 and 16 volts on the grey cable.
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post #14947 of 15029 Old 08-03-2015, 10:47 PM
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I would replace them all.
You should be getting 12 and 16 volts a terminals for grey cable.
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post #14948 of 15029 Old 08-03-2015, 10:49 PM
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I would replace all of them. if it does not work try checking to and see if
you are getting 12 and 16 volts on grey cable.
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post #14949 of 15029 Old 08-17-2015, 12:56 PM
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Not bragging but wanted to report that my Samsung HLT 5087 is going on 7 - 8 years old now and have never had a problem with it - no LED issues whatsoever. I admit the entertainment center it is housed in is very open (good air flow and heat dissipation) and I do open the back occasionally and vacuum out the dust from the circuit boards and fans. Maybe I just got lucky but so far so good (knock on wood)
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post #14950 of 15029 Old 08-23-2015, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eelecurb View Post
Not bragging but wanted to report that my Samsung HLT 5087 is going on 7 - 8 years old now and have never had a problem with it - no LED issues whatsoever. I admit the entertainment center it is housed in is very open (good air flow and heat dissipation) and I do open the back occasionally and vacuum out the dust from the circuit boards and fans. Maybe I just got lucky but so far so good (knock on wood)
Congrats, hope you continue to have good luck.

I replaced the red LED in my 6187 about 2 years in. Then a couple years after that I had to replace the DLP chip. Thankfully I was able to DIY both repairs - these sets are easy to work on and parts are readily available. I've also added the Mitsubishi 3D kit (hacked the set's EDID), and have been enjoying 3D material for the last few years - the promise of forward-compatibility with 3D material was the main reason I bought the Samsung over the competing Sony unit back in '07.

Overall (in no small part thanks to AVS and this thread in particular) I'd say I've had my money's worth out of this set. Eight+ years of service out of a TV is an eon these days. Even though Samsung didn't support us customers on the various problems, or on 3D support, things worked out for me in the end. I still love the PQ on this set, and we have put THOUSANDS of hours on it. But I doubt I'll buy another set from Samsung...
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post #14951 of 15029 Old 08-26-2015, 11:07 AM
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I have the HLT6187S. For the past month or so, whenever I turn on the TV from a cold start it has a flicker/flash on the screen. The screen works but the ficker/flash is quite distracting. If I turn the TV off, wait a few seconds, and turn back on it fixes it. Sometimes it fixes it the first time, sometimes I have to turn the TV off and on several times for it to go away. Once it goes away it is fine until I turn if off again for an extended period.

Anyone have any thoughts about what it might be or how to troubleshoot further?
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post #14952 of 15029 Old 08-31-2015, 07:47 AM
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Suddenly, 3 months after replacing the dmd chip.. my 6187 seems to be suffering from the "searching for signal" "no signal" pink screen/blue screen glitches.. momentarily the signal is lost.. doesnt matter if its ps4, x1 or the htpc.. i havent ruled out a bad hdmi port on the tv or the receiver just yet (receiver is avr-1912), but just curious if anyone else had this and had a quick fix?

Thanks in advance

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post #14953 of 15029 Old 08-31-2015, 08:45 AM
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not shutting down completely

how did the power cord wiggle trick work?
I shut off mine using the power bar.
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post #14954 of 15029 Old 09-01-2015, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barlav View Post
I have the HLT6187S. For the past month or so, whenever I turn on the TV from a cold start it has a flicker/flash on the screen. The screen works but the ficker/flash is quite distracting. If I turn the TV off, wait a few seconds, and turn back on it fixes it. Sometimes it fixes it the first time, sometimes I have to turn the TV off and on several times for it to go away. Once it goes away it is fine until I turn if off again for an extended period.

Anyone have any thoughts about what it might be or how to troubleshoot further?
Actually, mine is starting this flicker as well.. take out all cables in my case, blue screen, you can still see it flicker.. i thought it was related to my dmd swap, but maybe not.. very curious why.. i was getting a pink/bluescreen no signal, searching etc at times too, though now i think its mutated into a slight flicker every 10 seconds

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post #14955 of 15029 Old 09-04-2015, 04:37 AM
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OK Here is what I found: 1) A slightly bulging cap on Sub Pwr Sup board (CM860 2200uf 25V)
2) A broken small diode on the underside of the LED Driver board (D9000). I also vacuumed everything out-not too much dust...
After I re-assembled the set-powered it up just to make sure everything still works-the red seemed to be at a normal level-but WB adjustment still seemed to not do anything... I don't want to run the set w/ a bulging cap,so it's out of service for now,until I can replace it. Thanks for the help,now to start hunting for a good source for replacements-I remember seeing something about that earlier in this thread. Will post updates.
I ordered 5 replacement caps from Parts Express-replaced the bulging one. Also replaced the diode with a larger one,re assembled everything and it works! The white balance does not go through the full range that it did-but it gets close enough for a good picture.Hope it holds together for a while,still a better pix then most newer sets. Knock on wood!

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post #14956 of 15029 Old 09-06-2015, 05:48 PM
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hlt6187sax/xaa

I have a quick question about my 6187, first though you guys are all incredible for keeping this board going it has helped me through so many issues and now I have finally joined! I had to replace the capacitors on my sub power board I believe? After reassembling everything I plugged in the power and white flash and boom now there is no power at all.....Have I destroyed the tv for good? I bought another oem subpower board but I don't know if this is a power supply issue or what ballast ? dmd? I am worried about it please help thanks so much guys!
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post #14957 of 15029 Old 09-06-2015, 11:01 PM
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Hi, I think you might have put a capacitor in backwards or shorted solder across to another trace on the board.
Did you see where the flash came from?
There should be something blackened from that incident.
It would not damage your DMD board, You do not have a ballast so it would
probably be your main power supply.

Unplug the two wire cable from main power board to SUB board and check and see if you have
over 200 DC volts there checking off of the main power board.
I forget the exact figure and it does vary from one tv to another but it will either be from 200 to 300 DC
volts or you will have nothing.
I would think this might be your problem and if it is replacing that board would be the easy fix.
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post #14958 of 15029 Old 09-07-2015, 07:41 AM
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Thank you for the quick response and help! I actually ordered a second sub board just in case I had done something like that but when I put that board in still nothing ,It seemed to come from the power board what is the part number for that board ?
Thanks again !
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post #14959 of 15029 Old 09-07-2015, 02:52 PM
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bp44-01001a
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post #14960 of 15029 Old 09-08-2015, 11:45 AM
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Ah thanks stanman2242 I was hoping I was wrong on that part number as I can only seem to find variations on that and not the exact part but for a hefty price I looked over my caps on there and I didn't notice any bulging but if it isn't powering on at all this has to be the problem right?
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post #14961 of 15029 Old 09-08-2015, 10:38 PM
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It would not be an issue of bulging caps on that board since you had a catastrophic event
caused by your sub led board.
Whatever it is could be hard for you to troubleshoot other looking for a burned up component.
You know there is a fuse on that power board.
Another board that is listed for your TV is the BP44-01001C.
It is not always safe to blame the power board when tv is dead because it could be the main board but in your case it is doubtful you would have damaged main board.
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post #14962 of 15029 Old 09-12-2015, 11:19 AM
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I will hopefully be ordering the part sometime this weekend and guess ill just see how it goes! Thanks stanman!
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post #14963 of 15029 Old 09-26-2015, 09:37 PM
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Well finally got the part and everything in when I hooked it all up crackled for a second no life sadly
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post #14964 of 15029 Old 09-29-2015, 12:57 PM
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I'm attempting to hook up a Roku 3 through my Onkyo receiver, which was purchased about the same time as my HL-T6187S in 2007.
I did not have any success using only HDMI through the receiver, so I decided to connect the Roku to HDMI 1 on the TV and connect a Toslink cable from the HL-T6187S to the Game/TV optical port on the receiver. Still no sound from the Roku.
My question is, I have never performed a FW upgrade and I'm wondering if that might help to resolve this issue.
Also, since I have never upgraded the FW, is that something I should go ahead and do anyway?
Thanks for reading,
- Chris
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post #14965 of 15029 Old 10-13-2015, 12:47 PM
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y HLT6187 is beautiful again, after new DMD and Red ED chips installed, Replacing the LED, I discovered one bulging cap on the sub board, so I want to replace all the electrolytic caps on the main power supply board, the sub board and I believe there's a third board with 'lytics. I used my lunch hour to read MANY of the posts in this thread trying to find a list of values, but could not find any. I tried the link to a company that sold a kit of all the caps, but the link doesn't work. Does anyone have such a list, or do you which post # has the list?
Thanks in advance for any help.
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post #14966 of 15029 Old 10-21-2015, 05:39 PM
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My 6187 LED has been doing great since I replaced the DLP chip a few years ago thanks to this excellent forum and community of enthusiasts. While in there I cleaned all the LED's, heat sinks, fans, etc. Also noticed bulging caps on power supply and was able to have that replaced under an extended warranty grant.

But turned the set on tonight and it was like the DLP issue on steroids! Instead of a couple white dots, which then grow to more and more, I have tons of horizontal white lines everywhere! I've tried other HDMI input sources and see the same result....same with the set off. Plus other TVs in the house tuned to the same U-verse signal are perfect.

Please take a look at the attached image and let me know if this is some sudden massive failure of the DLP chip or something else I should check. Until last night this set still outperformed even the newest ones out there so sure hate to give up on it now (even my geek friends who attend my superbowl parties are always blown away by the image quality, brightness, etc.).

Thanks,

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post #14967 of 15029 Old 10-22-2015, 03:38 AM
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Quote:
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But turned the set on tonight and it was like the DLP issue on steroids! Instead of a couple white dots, which then grow to more and more, I have tons of horizontal white lines everywhere! I've tried other HDMI input sources and see the same result....same with the set off. Plus other TVs in the house tuned to the same U-verse signal are perfect.

Please take a look at the attached image and let me know if this is some sudden massive failure of the DLP chip or something else I should check.

Their here ....


Sorry, could not resist the poltergeist reference.


You have the same sort of thing on other non-HDMI inputs? (I am thinking component). I don't remember if the set overlays menus or has solid blue screens with the text on it. With the streaks of lines, it looks like multiple addresses of the DLP mirrors are not moving (or all moving). like one or more of the address lines are stuck on a 1 or a 0 so you get the same value regardless of whether or not. It could be internal to the DLP chip or what is feeding the DLP chip,


About the only think I could think of to try would be to reseat the DLP chip. But I am not to hopeful for you. Sorry.
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post #14968 of 15029 Old 10-22-2015, 08:20 AM
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The menus are transparent but I did check the 'cable' input and behavior is consistent.

I'm torn if I buy another DLP chip or just put the money to a new TV. I worry it could be something in the display board itself rather than the chip. If I still had the threat of power supply failure, or even cosmetic damage to the set, it would be a no-brainer.

Doug
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post #14969 of 15029 Old 10-22-2015, 02:55 PM
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Asking again: does anyone have a listing of the electrolytic caps that were on the Sammy recall?
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post #14970 of 15029 Old 10-22-2015, 03:25 PM
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Hank, Search for "capacitor plague". https://www.google.com/search?q=capa...utf-8&oe=utf-8

Last edited by JRWalker; 10-23-2015 at 07:17 AM.
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