2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 500 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
First ... 498  499  500
Rear Projection Units > 2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S)
JRWalker's Avatar JRWalker 03:25 PM 10-22-2015
Hank, Search for "capacitor plague". https://www.google.com/search?q=capa...utf-8&oe=utf-8

MLXXXp's Avatar MLXXXp 12:52 PM 10-23-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougBoost View Post
Please take a look at the attached image and let me know if this is some sudden massive failure of the DLP chip or something else I should check.
By any chance did you happen to keep the bad DLP chip that you replaced?

I doubt it's the chip itself but if you have the old bad one, and it only had a few bad pixels, you could put it back in. If all the horizontal lines go away and you're left with only the bad pixels, then it's probably the new DLP chip itself. If the horizontal lines remain, then it's likely something else.
Hank's Avatar Hank 02:05 PM 10-24-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post
Hank, Search for "capacitor plague". https://www.google.com/search?q=capa...utf-8&oe=utf-8
I spent over an hour there and the specific Sammy threads were for LCD models. I'll keep looking and then just pull boards from my TV and look at the electrolytic caps and write down the details and get them ordered.
Thanks again for your input
4hd99's Avatar 4hd99 01:45 PM 10-25-2015
My HLT6187 has the 'power on cycling' problem, started last Feb. It has not been too bad over the summer (warmer temps in the house), but know that during the winter it will go back to taking 5-15 minutes for the TV to power up. I finally took the HLT6187 apart this week and have the the 2 power boards out. There are 2 'bulging' caps on the sub SMPS, so will replace those 2 first, then do a mass swap if those 2 don't fix it.

Here is a list of caps locations/values for this vintage Samsung DLP:

2007 Samsung HLT6187SX/XAA
** bulging caps on this DLP are CM854/CM859 on the sub-SMPS
- notes : most are 105degC rated caps, some are 85 degC rated
- these are cap values on power board revisions noted. I've seen other cap values for later revision power boards).


main SMPS power board : P/N BP44-01001A : left side of set (from back)
C801S / C802S : 560uf 200V
CS804 : 22uf 250V
CS804 : 47uf 50V
CS824 : 1000uf 10V
CS826 : 2200uf 16V
C824/C827/C828 : 200uf 25V
CS823/CS815 : 1000uf 10V

sub SMPS power board : right side of set (from back)
- think this is part number P/N BP96-01726A but not verified
CM854**/CM858/CM859**/CM860/CM861 : 2200uf 25V
CM811 : 47uf 50V
CB806 : 100uF 450V
CB806 : 47uf 50V
cap next to CM811 : 22uf 50V (ref number covered with sealant)
CB810 : can't see values
BearGator56's Avatar BearGator56 01:53 PM 10-25-2015
A while back I pulled off the back cover and did a clean out. Had the bulging caps issue, but still haven't replaced them. TV has been working fine so I figured I'd just hold off. We moved long distance and just got everything set back up a week ago and now I have stuck mirror/dead pixel issues popping up. There are definitely two that weren't there before. Is there anything that can be done for this outside of replacing the DLP chip?

I've joked with my girlfriend about getting a new 4k 75" but didn't have a real reason until now. I'm sure I'll ride it til this thing dies or the pixels become a distraction. Not sure if it's worth fixing at this point since the next thing to go will the the caps.

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
JRWalker's Avatar JRWalker 06:51 PM 10-25-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hank View Post
I spent over an hour there and the specific Sammy threads were for LCD models. . . .
I am very sorry that I misread your post. All the caps produced by some Taiwanese manufacturers between 1999 and 2007 were missing an ingredient that should have been in the electrolyte formula. Failed caps are identified by bulging top and not by part number.

It was recommended that all caps with even slightly bulging tops be replaced ASAP to prevent damage to other components.
stanman2242 10:54 PM 10-25-2015
Hank, on the SUB LED board do not bother replacing any caps other than the 100uf 400v and the five 2200uf 25v caps.
Replace the five 2200uf with 35v and you will never have any more problems with that board.
I have probably done close to 100 boards that way.

As far as your main power board unless you see anything puffed up I would leave it alone until you see if the sub board takes care of your problems.

450volts 100uF: UPT2W101MHD

2200uF 35V: ECA-1VHG222
stanman2242 11:02 PM 10-25-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWalker View Post
It was recommended that all caps with even slightly bulging tops be replaced ASAP to prevent damage to other components.
You are right about that JR if you let it go on with puffed caps you can damage things on your
power board that you will not be able to trouble shoot easily.
Hank's Avatar Hank 10:53 AM 10-26-2015
4hd99, thanks for the detailed listing - what I've been looking for.


BearGator56, if you have a couple of stuck pixels now, you'll have a couple hundred in a few weeks. The DMD chip is easy to replace - I've done it. BTW, that's the only cure for stuck pixels. If you do that, replace the caps at the same time - they're cheap compared to the DMD chip cost. I'd do both those and enjoy your TV for several more months - keep in mind there's very little 4k content now.


JRWalker, I don't think you misread me. I was not looking for Samsung's part numbers for the caps, just which ones (locations and values) have been going bad. I would take that advice to replace bulging caps a step further and say replace All electrolytics that have failed over time, e.g. the five 2200uF caps on the Sub board: if one is bulging, go ahead and replace all five at the same time.


stanman2242, my set is not exhibiting any trouble now, but two of those 2200uF Sub board caps are bulging, so I'll replace all 5. I may go ahead and replace the main power board caps while I've got the patient cut open and operating.


Thanks again, guys. As Rodney would say - One uh deeze:
JRWalker's Avatar JRWalker 11:09 AM 10-26-2015
Hank, I read a lot about bad caps when the Plague hit. Over time, had to replace three computer motherboards in addition to my TV problem. Dell alone had to pay $300 million because of bad caps. The cost to all electronics manufacturers was in the billions. Others interested in the Plague search for "capacitor plague" https://www.google.com/search?q=capa...utf-8&oe=utf-8 .

A useful piece of information about caps is that a visual inspection can detect a failing cap. But, a cap must be removed from the board and tested to declare it good. Your advice about replacing all the big ones when any shows bulge is right on.
DougBoost's Avatar DougBoost 08:53 AM 11-22-2015
Upon opening the set again it appears the processor board the DLP chip is attached to is the likely culprit. Two of the connectors came off when removing the cables...the plastic parts are just getting old and brittle.

Despite the set being in otherwise excellent condition, including having the power supply board replaced due to bulging caps, I think it's time to move on to an LCD.

Let me know if anyone wants to get it here in or near Austin, TX. It's a HLT6187S.

Doug
vicw's Avatar vicw 09:34 AM 11-22-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by DougBoost View Post
Upon opening the set again it appears the processor board the DLP chip is attached to is the likely culprit. Two of the connectors came off when removing the cables...the plastic parts are just getting old and brittle.

Despite the set being in otherwise excellent condition, including having the power supply board replaced due to bulging caps, I think it's time to move on to an LCD.

Let me know if anyone wants to get it here in or near Austin, TX. It's a HLT6187S.

Doug
Our set us working beautifully now, but, I'm anxiously expecting to be in your position at any time.

After several repairs over the years, DLP, caps & Main Assy replacement, though, I don't think I'm ready for the work and expense of a 2nd round of failures.

I hope you can find a good home for the old set, which might be very helpful for someone willing to persevere.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
sammyxx87 01:29 PM 11-24-2015
Hi, I am having the same symptom - the LED indicator flashes on power up, the screen flashes and then goes dark. I had bulging caps on the sub led board and replaced the board today. When I turned the set back on, same problem. What else could be wrong - might it be a bad red led?
sammyxx87 01:36 PM 11-24-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyxx87 View Post
Hi, I am having the same symptom - the LED indicator flashes on power up, the screen flashes and then goes dark. I had bulging caps on the sub led board and replaced the board today. When I turned the set back on, same problem. What else could be wrong - might it be a bad red led?
Similar to a post awhile back that is:

"So I have had my Samsung LED DLP just sitting in a spare room for awhile now in hopes some day to be able to repair it. Before the current issue I had successfully replaced the DMD chip and it worked great for about another 8 months. The issue I am running into now is that the screen will no longer come on. This is what I have done and noticed so far. I plug it in, and hear a click as if it recognizes the power, the fans come on. It has a red led on in the bottom right corner. I press the power button and the screen acts as if it wants to try to come on, like the back light or whatever is trying. The green led blink 4 times and then the screen goes completely blank, leds are blank, but the fans are still going. I get no menu items or volume menu or anything during those 4 led blinks. Any one have an idea what this could be?"

It didn't seem there was a resolution to this reported.

Thx!
stanman2242 03:33 PM 11-24-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyxx87 View Post
Hi, I am having the same symptom - the LED indicator flashes on power up, the screen flashes and then goes dark. I had bulging caps on the sub led board and replaced the board today. When I turned the set back on, same problem. What else could be wrong - might it be a bad red led?
It would not be the red led, if you have a bad led the TV still turns on but it
is missing that color.
If you have a volt meter check and see if you are getting the 12vdc and the 16vdc
at the grey cable coming from sub led board.
If that is ok then it could be the led driver board.
Do you want to get rid of your old sub board?
Do you have a service manual for the TV? If you do not, PM me and I will send you one.
stanman2242 03:40 PM 11-24-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyxx87 View Post
Similar to a post awhile back that is:

"So I have had my Samsung LED DLP just sitting in a spare room for awhile now in hopes some day to be able to repair it. Before the current issue I had successfully replaced the DMD chip and it worked great for about another 8 months. The issue I am running into now is that the screen will no longer come on. This is what I have done and noticed so far. I plug it in, and hear a click as if it recognizes the power, the fans come on. It has a red led on in the bottom right corner. I press the power button and the screen acts as if it wants to try to come on, like the back light or whatever is trying. The green led blink 4 times and then the screen goes completely blank, leds are blank, but the fans are still going. I get no menu items or volume menu or anything during those 4 led blinks. Any one have an idea what this could be?"

It didn't seem there was a resolution to this reported.

Thx!
If you have not looked for puffed up caps on the sub led board, that would where I
would start.
sammyxx87 09:21 PM 11-25-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
If you have not looked for puffed up caps on the sub led board, that would where I
would start.
Yep, started there and replaced the sub led board with a new one. The original board had the puffed caps. After replacing the board I found no change in the original symptoms. I'm assuming the next step is to check voltage on the gray cable coming from the board then?
DougBoost's Avatar DougBoost 09:02 AM 11-28-2015
An update. We bought a Vizio E series 60" LCD since was highly rated on CNET and we were disappointed compared to our 60" LED DLP, even after running the THX calibrations.

So I decided to check Craigslist. Karma to the rescue: I found a gently used 67" LED DLP (HL67A750A1FXZA) that had a bad DLP chip for $180 after confirming this set used the same DLP module as mine. It was one year newer than our 60" (mfg. April 2008), the power supply caps looked great, the HDMI inputs were all good, but the screen was covered in white dots. I got it home, swapped in my old DLP chip, and it now looks beautiful (wife is thrilled)!

This confirmed the DMD board itself went bad. The internals of the two looked mostly the same but it was clear Samsung redesigned this board since it had less connectors, was smaller, and had a different shaped heatsink on the DLP chip.

I will keep some of my old parts (e.g.- LEDs, power supply board, fans, etc.) but no longer feel guilty dumping the old box.
sammyxx87 08:56 PM 12-18-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyxx87 View Post
Yep, started there and replaced the sub led board with a new one. The original board had the puffed caps. After replacing the board I found no change in the original symptoms. I'm assuming the next step is to check voltage on the gray cable coming from the board then?
I'm continuing to troubleshoot the problem on my 5087. Here's what I've found so far for my issue - no picture and no LED's showing on the front of the set. The LEDs attempt to come on on start up but then go off while the fans continue to run.
1. Checked for bulged caps on the Sub LED board and replaced the board.
2. Checked voltage on the gray cable on the Sub LED board. Appears to be ok
3. Pulled the lens out to check the LED Driver. Service manual has a flow chart to see if there is a flashing indicator light on the board. I powered the set up and noticed a red LED blinking on the LED Driver board. The LED was flashing 2 times over and over. According to the service manual, this means "Open". I have no idea what this may mean. Any ideas?

I also tested all 3 LED's with a 9v battery. All 3 fire up so they should be in working order.

If the LED Driver does need to be replaced, I'd like to know that's all I will need to do. I'm approaching 50% replacement on parts and am having a hard time justifying the LED Driver.
sammyxx87 02:31 PM 12-21-2015
Quote:
Originally Posted by sammyxx87 View Post
I'm continuing to troubleshoot the problem on my 5087. Here's what I've found so far for my issue - no picture and no LED's showing on the front of the set. The LEDs attempt to come on on start up but then go off while the fans continue to run.
1. Checked for bulged caps on the Sub LED board and replaced the board.
2. Checked voltage on the gray cable on the Sub LED board. Appears to be ok
3. Pulled the lens out to check the LED Driver. Service manual has a flow chart to see if there is a flashing indicator light on the board. I powered the set up and noticed a red LED blinking on the LED Driver board. The LED was flashing 2 times over and over. According to the service manual, this means "Open". I have no idea what this may mean. Any ideas?

I also tested all 3 LED's with a 9v battery. All 3 fire up so they should be in working order.

If the LED Driver does need to be replaced, I'd like to know that's all I will need to do. I'm approaching 50% replacement on parts and am having a hard time justifying the LED Driver.
Update - I believe I have narrowed down the issue. It's not a board issue (whew!). Apparently the wiring between the red LED and the LED Driver has a short in it (hence the "open" state on the driver board itself). Can anyone provide me the part number of the connector wire from the LED Driver to the Red LED?
stanman2242 11:02 PM 12-21-2015
sammyxx87, Is this a 5087SX or 5087SAX?
If it is a SX there is a switch on the LED driver board that turns the LEDs on for testing.
In other words if it was not getting a signal from DMD board and the switch turned LEDs
on, you would know the DMD was bad.
It is not the red cable. If you had a problem with one LED it would just be missing a color.
If you have the proper flow chart for your TV it tells about the switch near the bottom of chart.
you should also see a picture showing you the switch on board.
I see what you mean about the two blinks but I do not have a clue what they mean by open,
or what fuse they are talking about.
I have either driver board for SX or SAX, but I do not have either DMD board now.
Just curious what part of country you are in? I am in Va.
sammyxx87 08:42 PM 12-25-2015
Stanman2242, it's a 5087SX. I pulled the LED driver off the set and looked for the switch. I didn't see anything in that corner where I could flip anything. If I could, it was very, very small and I didn't want to break anything. Anyway, I have been playing around with this set and I have been able to get the red LED to light up by jiggling the power lead cable to the red LED itself. I can get the set to work for about 15-20 min or so and then the red LED goes out. I can view a program for about a minute or two, but then the picture goes out. I pull out the light engine and wiggle that power lead and the red light comes back on. This also makes the red blinking indicator on the LED driver board go away.

I figured that this could be the power link from the driver to the red LED. I'm thinking that the red LED itself may have some sort of glitch in it (it's original equipment from 2007) so it may be failing in a unique way. Once I get the red LED lit up, I can run a full test pattern in the service menu so I am thinking that the DMD should be ok. As I mentioned before, I'm leery of dumping a lot of money into this set as replacement value of this set is falling fast with the new 4K sets coming out.
kartographer's Avatar kartographer 12:37 PM 02-02-2016
My old RCA Sound system died that I was using on my Samsung Hlt5676sax though I had the Caps change and replaced the Red LED I must face the fact that it is old. I am hoping some one might recommend a sound system that works well with this set to replace my RCA. My living room is 14 X 16.
BearGator56's Avatar BearGator56 03:36 PM 04-19-2016
I finally retired my Sammy. The mirrors started sticking a couple dots at a time and it was starting to look like the Big Dipper. I thought about replacing the chip for about $180 but 4k UHD was drawing me in.

I replaced it with the new Vizio P65-c1 and so far it's great.

Any ideas what to do with the old one? With a little time to fix it and a small fee it would still make a great 60" set.

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
blazeblaze's Avatar blazeblaze 09:17 AM 04-20-2016
BearGator56,

I think I'll be in the same boat soon. I've got a few black spots that showed up a few months ago. So far I haven't noticed it getting worse, but I know it's going to happen soon. I'm just holding out as long as I can before I make the leap to 4K. I will probably look at the 4K Vizio's. I have another Vizio 1080p TV from several years ago and I've always been happy with it.

I'm also curious how I can get rid of this thing when I'm done with it.
BearGator56's Avatar BearGator56 11:37 AM 04-20-2016
Leave it on the doorstep of Best Buy.

Sent from my SM-N915V using Tapatalk
kartographer's Avatar kartographer 11:37 PM 07-09-2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by markm75 View Post
Actually, mine is starting this flicker as well.. take out all cables in my case, blue screen, you can still see it flicker.. i thought it was related to my dmd swap, but maybe not.. very curious why.. i was getting a pink/bluescreen no signal, searching etc at times too, though now i think its mutated into a slight flicker every 10 seconds
Mine just stared this flickering. It comes and goes. Did you resolve it??
kartographer's Avatar kartographer 11:42 PM 07-09-2016
Quote:
Originally Posted by barlav View Post
I have the HLT6187S. For the past month or so, whenever I turn on the TV from a cold start it has a flicker/flash on the screen. The screen works but the ficker/flash is quite distracting. If I turn the TV off, wait a few seconds, and turn back on it fixes it. Sometimes it fixes it the first time, sometimes I have to turn the TV off and on several times for it to go away. Once it goes away it is fine until I turn if off again for an extended period.

Anyone have any thoughts about what it might be or how to troubleshoot further?
Mine just stared this flickering. It comes and goes. Did you resolve it??
Tags: Tv Lamp Bp96 01795a For Samsung Hlt5076s Hlt5676s Hlt6176s Hlt6176sx Hlt6176 Hlt5676sx Xaa Hlt5076wx
First ... 498  499  500

Up