2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 501 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15001 of 15028 Old 08-12-2016, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 2&2 View Post
I recently just replaced the DLP chip, and it seems to be chugging along still. However, I was looking at possibly replacing it in the next year or so anyway. The only thing that concerns me about modern TVs is input lag in games. I use it mostly for gaming, and I play mostly fast paced action/head-to-head games like fighters.

Has anyone ever seen input lag numbers for this set in game mode?

I'm trying to get an idea of what sort of lag I'm used to on this set.

Could the replacement DLP chip make a difference as well?
Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.

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post #15002 of 15028 Old 08-13-2016, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hurricanebob View Post
Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.
I never had noticeable lag on mine. I usually used game mode, but sometimes I forgot. Mostly played Battlefield and Madden.

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post #15003 of 15028 Old 08-13-2016, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hurricanebob View Post
Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.
Woah, really? I always figured it had 15 ms or so in game mode. I never really had noticable lag, though. I just thought it was under what I could detect. Is there any documentation of the lag numbers from testing anywhere? I'm just curious to see them. I'm surprised this isn't more well-known if true. Sorry if I sound skeptical, but it almost seems too good to be true. That plus the color I get with it makes me want to hang onto it for a lot longer.
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post #15004 of 15028 Old 08-13-2016, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 2&2 View Post
Woah, really? I always figured it had 15 ms or so in game mode. I never really had noticable lag, though. I just thought it was under what I could detect. Is there any documentation of the lag numbers from testing anywhere? I'm just curious to see them. I'm surprised this isn't more well-known if true. Sorry if I sound skeptical, but it almost seems too good to be true. That plus the color I get with it makes me want to hang onto it for a lot longer.
I am going from memory here, as my HLT 5089S is long gone, but I do remember the input lag being in micro seconds, not milliseconds. Now that may be for the DLP chip itself, and the onboard processing may slow it up a bit, but I can say that with 3D there was absolutely no ghosting whatsoever, and with my PN 60F8500 there is very visible ghosting, especially in dark scenes, like Tron. The DLP easily bested the plasma in that department.

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post #15005 of 15028 Old 09-04-2016, 11:39 PM
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Anyone still here?

I had the ghost problem on purchase, fixed under warranty. Easy peasy after knowing exactly what the problem was from here. Thanks team.
I had the white dots plague a few years back, got help here, paid for chip thing, repaired it myself. Thanks team.

Now i've been having multiple problems.

First, for the past many months, the TV has had a power on and handshake problem. Sometimes it turns itself back off when trying to power on. More often, it will attempt to come on but get stuck with no picture and won't allow me to power it off without unplugging it. When it does power up correctly, it will often have a pause/blink/bright colors thing for a few seconds after about a minute. And sometimes a second time after another minute. Once in a while the "no signal detected" box stays on screen even when the picture from whichever input has come on.

Second, and way more annoying, the TV has just started to make loud crackle sounds and then usually follows it up with ear-piercing beep sounds, sometimes one per minute, sometimes many in rapid succession. They sound like some sort of "danger will robinson danger" warning of imminent tv failure. When it first started, turning the TV off for a minute and then turning it back on would fix the problem but the last two days its been happening way more frequently.

Are these two problems connected or are they separate problems?

I'm assuming at this point I should probably just give up the ghost. What TVs has everyone been switching to? I have a low quality Vizio in the other room that has some garish colors going on. And everyone I know with a Sony TV has had just as many problems as the Samsung owners.

Edit: Found an earlier post in thread where someone went into the service menu and used the Speaker EQ to turn off the speakers completely and prevent the screechy sounds.... but now I have a glowy white light under my power button. Did I accidentally change another setting in the service menu? How do I get rid of this? :/

Last edited by stevelabny; 09-05-2016 at 12:33 AM.
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post #15006 of 15028 Old 09-05-2016, 10:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevelabny View Post
Anyone still here?

I had the ghost problem on purchase, fixed under warranty. Easy peasy after knowing exactly what the problem was from here. Thanks team.
I had the white dots plague a few years back, got help here, paid for chip thing, repaired it myself. Thanks team.

Now i've been having multiple problems.

First, for the past many months, the TV has had a power on and handshake problem. Sometimes it turns itself back off when trying to power on. More often, it will attempt to come on but get stuck with no picture and won't allow me to power it off without unplugging it. When it does power up correctly, it will often have a pause/blink/bright colors thing for a few seconds after about a minute. And sometimes a second time after another minute. Once in a while the "no signal detected" box stays on screen even when the picture from whichever input has come on.

Second, and way more annoying, the TV has just started to make loud crackle sounds and then usually follows it up with ear-piercing beep sounds, sometimes one per minute, sometimes many in rapid succession. They sound like some sort of "danger will robinson danger" warning of imminent tv failure. When it first started, turning the TV off for a minute and then turning it back on would fix the problem but the last two days its been happening way more frequently.

Are these two problems connected or are they separate problems?

I'm assuming at this point I should probably just give up the ghost. What TVs has everyone been switching to? I have a low quality Vizio in the other room that has some garish colors going on. And everyone I know with a Sony TV has had just as many problems as the Samsung owners.

Edit: Found an earlier post in thread where someone went into the service menu and used the Speaker EQ to turn off the speakers completely and prevent the screechy sounds.... but now I have a glowy white light under my power button. Did I accidentally change another setting in the service menu? How do I get rid of this? :/
Does it go through a cycle of trying to come on three times and then turn off?
If not then you say it is just locking up and has the noises.
The noise is from the speakers correct?
It sounds like your main board, the one with the input jacks on it.
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post #15007 of 15028 Old 09-06-2016, 02:56 AM
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Does it go through a cycle of trying to come on three times and then turn off?
Not sure what you mean. Usually the power button blinks a few times while it considers turning on, and then sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. If it turns itself off, it takes a minute or two before it does so. Othertimes it just freezes with a black screen no picture and I have to unplug it manually
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post #15008 of 15028 Old 09-06-2016, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by stevelabny View Post
Not sure what you mean. Usually the power button blinks a few times while it considers turning on, and then sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. If it turns itself off, it takes a minute or two before it does so. Othertimes it just freezes with a black screen no picture and I have to unplug it manually
Can this be a result of capacitor plague?

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post #15009 of 15028 Old 09-13-2016, 01:26 AM
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Never was able to resolve. Ended up selling it as is and getting a new 4K TV.
I think I accidently discovered what is wrong with my tv:

HOW TO REPAIR SAMSUNG TV WITH BAD PICTURE (como reparar samsung tv distorcion color)


This is exactly what my picture occasionally looks like. Usually I turn off the set and turn it back on and we are good, but after a while it comes back.

The video says the problem is the gama IC located in the T-con board. Replacing the IC is an option; however for all do it yourselfs, replacing the T-con board is easier and faster.

Anyone ever replace the T-con in a Hlt5676?
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post #15010 of 15028 Old 09-13-2016, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by kartographer View Post
I think I accidently discovered what is wrong with my tv:

HOW TO REPAIR SAMSUNG TV WITH BAD PICTURE (como reparar samsung tv distorcion color)


The video says the problem is the gama IC located in the T-con board. Replacing the IC is an option; however for all do it yourselfs, replacing the T-con board is easier and faster.

Anyone ever replace the T-con in a Hlt5676?
I have not seen that problem on anything later than the old HLR series of DLPs but if you are talking about the DMD board that has the DMD chip on it I have put chips in a few of the HLTxx76 series of TV.
It is sort of a "pain in the but" compared to most other series then again that whole TV is a pain to me. there are some strange physical adjustments on that board but I never needed to fool with them when I put a chip in one.
I have a few of those boards here if you need one though.

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post #15011 of 15028 Old 09-14-2016, 04:35 AM
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Originally Posted by stanman2242 View Post
I have not seen that problem on anything later than the old HLR series of DLPs but if you are talking about the DMD board that has the DMD chip on it I have put chips in a few of the HLTxx76 series of TV.
It is sort of a "pain in the but" compared to most other series then again that whole TV is a pain to me. there are some strange physical adjustments on that board but I never needed to fool with them when I put a chip in one.
I have a few of those boards here if you need one though.
I don't think it is the DMD as the picture doesn't have the white dot problem, just occasionally the colors become blurred washed out and some strobing like in the Youtube video it always corrects itself by merely turning off the set and then turning it back on. I saw something about a bad digital video board?
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post #15012 of 15028 Old 10-06-2016, 05:39 AM
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Does anyone have a source for NEW red LEDs. I have scoured the internet and the only place I can find them is on ebay, but they are charging and ARM and a LEG, $259.75!!!!

Ridiculous when people used to be buying these for ~$100.
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post #15013 of 15028 Old 10-07-2016, 12:10 AM
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Does anyone have a source for NEW red LEDs. I have scoured the internet and the only place I can find them is on ebay, but they are charging and ARM and a LEG, $259.75!!!!

Ridiculous when people used to be buying these for ~$100.
$135.00 for all three used guaranteed 30 days.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162229995880...84.m1555.l2649

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post #15014 of 15028 Old 11-22-2016, 10:32 AM
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Still loving my tv after all these years. Wondering if anyone has a 3DA-1 they'd be willing to part with?
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post #15015 of 15028 Old 12-03-2016, 10:29 AM
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Samsung HL-T6187S HDMI Handshake problem?

Hello-

I have a Samsung HL-T6187S LED-DLP. It appears to be having HDMI handshake problems. My Comcast X1 receiver will work for a couple days and then lose signal to the TV. Power cycling the Comcast receiver with the TV powered on fixes the problem and the picture/audio returns and works normally. The same issue occurs with my PS3. My Denon AV receiver doesn't seem to work at all anymore, so I've bypassed it and running sources directly into the TV via HDMI.

I have ensured the TV has the newest firmware and have done a factory reset on it.

I'm guessing there is some component that needs to be replaced and hoping someone of the forum can identify which component it is I should swap out. Or, happy to entertain any other troubleshooting steps that might be recommended.

Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

-Brad
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post #15016 of 15028 Old 12-03-2016, 04:54 PM
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Glad to see that I'm not the only one that still has this set. Mine is going on 9 years with over 30,000 hours on it. LED's have never failed, no capacitor issues, but I replaced the DMD chip about 4 years ago. I clean out the fans and heatsinks once a year, and added extra cooling which is probably why I've had little issues.
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post #15017 of 15028 Old 12-23-2016, 11:48 PM
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My HL-T6187S has just started flaking out over the last week or so. It will be nine years old in April, and I've replaced the DMD chip (had tons of white dots when I changed it), a burned out red LED 2-1/2 years ago, and all three fans (one bad one and the other two as a preventive measure). At first, it was green and blue only, which made me think the red LED was out again. But, power cycling got it going. Since then, we've seen red only once, blue only a couple of times, and lately, it's taking four or five tries (and sometimes unplugging it), to get any picture. Or maybe two or three black starts, then blue only, then normal.

I looked at the caps on sub SMPS board, and they're not bulged or leaking. I'm thinking it could still be that board, or the LED driver board. Samsungparts.com still carries the sub SMPS board, but don't list the LED driver board.

I don't want to give up on this one yet, so what do I need to check? I have the service manual (download) that I bought when I first repaired it, and a good Fluke multimeter. What voltages should I be looking for on the sub SMPS board, and on what pins? Thanks!
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post #15018 of 15028 Old 12-24-2016, 10:35 PM
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Originally Posted by sparkinstx View Post
My HL-T6187S has just started flaking out over the last week or so. It will be nine years old in April, and I've replaced the DMD chip (had tons of white dots when I changed it), a burned out red LED 2-1/2 years ago, and all three fans (one bad one and the other two as a preventive measure). At first, it was green and blue only, which made me think the red LED was out again. But, power cycling got it going. Since then, we've seen red only once, blue only a couple of times, and lately, it's taking four or five tries (and sometimes unplugging it), to get any picture. Or maybe two or three black starts, then blue only, then normal.

I looked at the caps on sub SMPS board, and they're not bulged or leaking. I'm thinking it could still be that board, or the LED driver board. Samsungparts.com still carries the sub SMPS board, but don't list the LED driver board.

I don't want to give up on this one yet, so what do I need to check? I have the service manual (download) that I bought when I first repaired it, and a good Fluke multimeter. What voltages should I be looking for on the sub SMPS board, and on what pins? Thanks!
The SMPS can be bad even though it does not look bad. The 450 volt cap is frequently bad
without looking puffed.
If it is a HL-T6187SX and not a SAX I have the led driver board cheap,
I have many of them. $25.00 + ship.
I also have SMPS for $35 & free ship.
I also have upgraded SMPS for $55.00 which has better parts than a new one from samsung, but I think you would get a year at least out of the other one.
The SAX driver board costs a bit more.
If you have never replaced the SMPS it sounds like a good possibility since you must have a lot of hours to have replaced as much as you have.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/stanman2242/...1&_ipg=&_from=

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post #15019 of 15028 Old 01-09-2017, 05:12 PM
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[quote=stanman2242;49269569]The SMPS can be bad even though it does not look bad. The 450 volt cap is frequently bad
without looking puffed.
If it is a HL-T6187SX and not a SAX I have the led driver board cheap,
I have many of them. $25.00 + ship.
I also have SMPS for $35 & free ship.
I also have upgraded SMPS for $55.00 which has better parts than a new one from samsung, but I think you would get a year at least out of the other one.
The SAX driver board costs a bit more.
If you have never replaced the SMPS it sounds like a good possibility since you must have a lot of hours to have replaced as much as you have.

(URL removed because I'm a n00b poster)

Yes, it'll be nine years old in April, so yeah, it probably has a lot of hours on it. Today, it finally won't come up. It reboots a couple of times, and then after three tries, all three front panel LEDs blink ("Optic chassis may be defective. Please contact a certified technician.", according to my service manual). On the first try I had sound, but now, no sound. I've had the engine out a few times to replace the red LED, the DMD chip, and all three fans, so I'm pretty familiar with replacing parts. It is a SAX (SAX/XAA). What's special about a SAX?

On your upgraded sub SMPS board, have all the caps been replaced? Blown caps I'm familiar with - years ago, I had to replace motherboards in several Dell OptiPlex GX270s, which had a known issue with blown Nichicon caps.

Anyway, just let me know what you think - I really like the set, and I'd like to get a couple more years out of it. I actually work for the company that invented DLP (TI), and before I got the set (a free gift for my 25th service anniversary), I talked to the guy that was the lead engineer on the LED DLP engine. Thanks!
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post #15020 of 15028 Old 01-21-2017, 05:42 PM
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Stan, sorry, I was thinking about buying one of your rebuilt sub SMPS board, but my wife wanted to spend the extra $12 for a new part, so I ordered one, and replaced it today. The TV is working again. Thanks for your advice. I'll PM you, to see if you want my old board before I throw it away. Thanks again.
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post #15021 of 15028 Old 01-21-2017, 10:47 PM
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Hi, it is a shame you spent the $12 dollars more for a new one because as far as I know the new one would be the same as the old one was when new which means it has the same type (poor quality) caps.
Myself I wold rather have mine because I put better quality caps in plus higher voltage rating so it would far outlast the old one but there is no arguing with a wife.
Nothing is "special" about the SAX it just uses a different LED driver and power supply and DMD board.
The power supply is actually a different size than the SX but SUB board is the same. I will PM you about your old board.

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post #15022 of 15028 Old 02-03-2017, 01:18 PM
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mits 3d box

i have a 3d mits converter with 4 pairs of glasses for samsung tv which also still works excellent.only problem is i live in ontario canada.bought lg 3d 4k set and don't use the samsung for 3d anymore.

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post #15023 of 15028 Old 02-08-2017, 09:03 PM
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I downloaded the software update for my HL-T6187S from Samsung.com, and put it on a USB key I followed the instructions, so the files are in a T-LAURAUS0 folder. I put the key in the USB port on the TV, and selected SW Upgrade in the Setup menu. It checks the USB, and comes back with the message, "No file available to upgrade. Please check it and retry."

I looked at the key in WISELINK, and I can see the folders there. Any ideas? The software version on the TV is 1008 (2007-09-19), and the download from Samsung is 1028 (2007-09-15). The version number is higher, but the date is older. Am I getting the error because it thinks that the software on the TV is newer than the download.
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post #15024 of 15028 Old 02-16-2017, 09:14 PM
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The volume level on my HL-T6187S is suddenly lower. Where a volume setting of 30 was plenty loud enough, I have to turn the volume up to 50 to get the same volume. I was playing with Service Mode recently, to see how many hours are on the set (over 16,000). Could I have have done something to the audio settings? I don't see anything obvious in the sound settings in the service manual. I did a sound reset in the settings menu, but no change.

What else should I check?
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post #15025 of 15028 Old 02-16-2017, 09:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparkinstx View Post
The volume level on my HL-T6187S is suddenly lower. Where a volume setting of 30 was plenty loud enough, I have to turn the volume up to 50 to get the same volume. I was playing with Service Mode recently, to see how many hours are on the set (over 16,000). Could I have have done something to the audio settings? I don't see anything obvious in the sound settings in the service manual. I did a sound reset in the settings menu, but no change.

What else should I check?
Okay, I figured it out. I went into Service Mode, and did a factory reset (accidentally). Anyway, looking through the menu, I found Auto Volume in the Sound settings. It was set to Off (I guess that's the factory default). I switched it to On, and the volume level is back to where I expect it to be. BTW, the LED Life counter is at 18,413 hours.

Also, a bit of information. Before I got my set, I talked to the guy who was the project manager for the LED engine DLP program, and he told me that the first thing to do when I got mine was to turn DNIe OFF. He said that the signal from the engine was pure, and that DNIe made it worse. They tried to talk Samsung out of including DNIe, but Samsung wanted it. I do notice that the picture quality is slightly better with DNIe turned off.
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post #15026 of 15028 Old 03-13-2017, 01:58 PM
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Not bragging but wanted to report that my Samsung HLT 5087 is going on 7 - 8 years old now and have never had a problem with it - no LED issues whatsoever. I admit the entertainment center it is housed in is very open (good air flow and heat dissipation) and I do open the back occasionally and vacuum out the dust from the circuit boards and fans. Maybe I just got lucky but so far so good (knock on wood)
My brother had a 6187 since early 2008 (recently replaced with OLED). He also never had a problem with LED's, DLP chip or bulging caps. Only had one fan go bad on him.

I have a 5087 since 2008 that has run the gamut - DLP, red LED (twice), replaced caps on main power and sub power board. It's been running great for quite a while now, aside from the HDMI handshake issue with my Uverse box, which AT&T is aware of but won't bother to fix.

I'm just glad that these TV's are relatively easy to work on.
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post #15027 of 15028 Old 03-13-2017, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by randyr5 View Post
My brother had a 6187 since early 2008 (recently replaced with OLED). He also never had a problem with LED's, DLP chip or bulging caps. Only had one fan go bad on him.

I have a 5087 since 2008 that has run the gamut - DLP, red LED (twice), replaced caps on main power and sub power board. It's been running great for quite a while now, aside from the HDMI handshake issue with my Uverse box, which AT&T is aware of but won't bother to fix.

I'm just glad that these TV's are relatively easy to work on.
My 6189S is going on 9 years old now I think, and it's only problem so far has been the DLP chip getting the stuck on pixels, which I replaced myself pretty painlessly. Sits open air on top of the 'official' samsung pedestal.
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post #15028 of 15028 Old 05-22-2017, 09:59 PM
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My hlt5687sax just started blinking all the lights on front and a white halo under the on button after I turn the tv off. When it powers on, all the lights disappear and the tv works correctly. I started unplugging the tv so the lights don't blink while it is off. Any other suggestions?
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