2007 Samsung LED Owner's Thread (HLT XX87/89S) - Page 501 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15001 of 15012 Old 08-11-2016, 06:56 AM
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I recently just replaced the DLP chip, and it seems to be chugging along still. However, I was looking at possibly replacing it in the next year or so anyway. The only thing that concerns me about modern TVs is input lag in games. I use it mostly for gaming, and I play mostly fast paced action/head-to-head games like fighters.

Has anyone ever seen input lag numbers for this set in game mode?

I'm trying to get an idea of what sort of lag I'm used to on this set.

Could the replacement DLP chip make a difference as well?

Last edited by 2&2; 08-11-2016 at 07:01 AM.
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post #15002 of 15012 Old 08-12-2016, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 2&2 View Post
I recently just replaced the DLP chip, and it seems to be chugging along still. However, I was looking at possibly replacing it in the next year or so anyway. The only thing that concerns me about modern TVs is input lag in games. I use it mostly for gaming, and I play mostly fast paced action/head-to-head games like fighters.

Has anyone ever seen input lag numbers for this set in game mode?

I'm trying to get an idea of what sort of lag I'm used to on this set.

Could the replacement DLP chip make a difference as well?
Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.

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post #15003 of 15012 Old 08-13-2016, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hurricanebob View Post
Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.
I never had noticeable lag on mine. I usually used game mode, but sometimes I forgot. Mostly played Battlefield and Madden.

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post #15004 of 15012 Old 08-13-2016, 11:28 AM
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Input lag for a typical LCD TV is 8 - 50 milliseconds, depending on the preset. The DLP is far faster, at 8 - 50 microseconds, and game mode should typically give you the fastest response time.
Woah, really? I always figured it had 15 ms or so in game mode. I never really had noticable lag, though. I just thought it was under what I could detect. Is there any documentation of the lag numbers from testing anywhere? I'm just curious to see them. I'm surprised this isn't more well-known if true. Sorry if I sound skeptical, but it almost seems too good to be true. That plus the color I get with it makes me want to hang onto it for a lot longer.
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post #15005 of 15012 Old 08-13-2016, 12:52 PM
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Woah, really? I always figured it had 15 ms or so in game mode. I never really had noticable lag, though. I just thought it was under what I could detect. Is there any documentation of the lag numbers from testing anywhere? I'm just curious to see them. I'm surprised this isn't more well-known if true. Sorry if I sound skeptical, but it almost seems too good to be true. That plus the color I get with it makes me want to hang onto it for a lot longer.
I am going from memory here, as my HLT 5089S is long gone, but I do remember the input lag being in micro seconds, not milliseconds. Now that may be for the DLP chip itself, and the onboard processing may slow it up a bit, but I can say that with 3D there was absolutely no ghosting whatsoever, and with my PN 60F8500 there is very visible ghosting, especially in dark scenes, like Tron. The DLP easily bested the plasma in that department.

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post #15006 of 15012 Old 09-04-2016, 11:39 PM
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Anyone still here?

I had the ghost problem on purchase, fixed under warranty. Easy peasy after knowing exactly what the problem was from here. Thanks team.
I had the white dots plague a few years back, got help here, paid for chip thing, repaired it myself. Thanks team.

Now i've been having multiple problems.

First, for the past many months, the TV has had a power on and handshake problem. Sometimes it turns itself back off when trying to power on. More often, it will attempt to come on but get stuck with no picture and won't allow me to power it off without unplugging it. When it does power up correctly, it will often have a pause/blink/bright colors thing for a few seconds after about a minute. And sometimes a second time after another minute. Once in a while the "no signal detected" box stays on screen even when the picture from whichever input has come on.

Second, and way more annoying, the TV has just started to make loud crackle sounds and then usually follows it up with ear-piercing beep sounds, sometimes one per minute, sometimes many in rapid succession. They sound like some sort of "danger will robinson danger" warning of imminent tv failure. When it first started, turning the TV off for a minute and then turning it back on would fix the problem but the last two days its been happening way more frequently.

Are these two problems connected or are they separate problems?

I'm assuming at this point I should probably just give up the ghost. What TVs has everyone been switching to? I have a low quality Vizio in the other room that has some garish colors going on. And everyone I know with a Sony TV has had just as many problems as the Samsung owners.

Edit: Found an earlier post in thread where someone went into the service menu and used the Speaker EQ to turn off the speakers completely and prevent the screechy sounds.... but now I have a glowy white light under my power button. Did I accidentally change another setting in the service menu? How do I get rid of this? :/

Last edited by stevelabny; 09-05-2016 at 12:33 AM.
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post #15007 of 15012 Old 09-05-2016, 10:57 PM
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Anyone still here?

I had the ghost problem on purchase, fixed under warranty. Easy peasy after knowing exactly what the problem was from here. Thanks team.
I had the white dots plague a few years back, got help here, paid for chip thing, repaired it myself. Thanks team.

Now i've been having multiple problems.

First, for the past many months, the TV has had a power on and handshake problem. Sometimes it turns itself back off when trying to power on. More often, it will attempt to come on but get stuck with no picture and won't allow me to power it off without unplugging it. When it does power up correctly, it will often have a pause/blink/bright colors thing for a few seconds after about a minute. And sometimes a second time after another minute. Once in a while the "no signal detected" box stays on screen even when the picture from whichever input has come on.

Second, and way more annoying, the TV has just started to make loud crackle sounds and then usually follows it up with ear-piercing beep sounds, sometimes one per minute, sometimes many in rapid succession. They sound like some sort of "danger will robinson danger" warning of imminent tv failure. When it first started, turning the TV off for a minute and then turning it back on would fix the problem but the last two days its been happening way more frequently.

Are these two problems connected or are they separate problems?

I'm assuming at this point I should probably just give up the ghost. What TVs has everyone been switching to? I have a low quality Vizio in the other room that has some garish colors going on. And everyone I know with a Sony TV has had just as many problems as the Samsung owners.

Edit: Found an earlier post in thread where someone went into the service menu and used the Speaker EQ to turn off the speakers completely and prevent the screechy sounds.... but now I have a glowy white light under my power button. Did I accidentally change another setting in the service menu? How do I get rid of this? :/
Does it go through a cycle of trying to come on three times and then turn off?
If not then you say it is just locking up and has the noises.
The noise is from the speakers correct?
It sounds like your main board, the one with the input jacks on it.
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post #15008 of 15012 Old 09-06-2016, 02:56 AM
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Does it go through a cycle of trying to come on three times and then turn off?
Not sure what you mean. Usually the power button blinks a few times while it considers turning on, and then sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. If it turns itself off, it takes a minute or two before it does so. Othertimes it just freezes with a black screen no picture and I have to unplug it manually
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post #15009 of 15012 Old 09-06-2016, 02:27 PM
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Not sure what you mean. Usually the power button blinks a few times while it considers turning on, and then sometimes it does and sometimes it doesnt. If it turns itself off, it takes a minute or two before it does so. Othertimes it just freezes with a black screen no picture and I have to unplug it manually
Can this be a result of capacitor plague?

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post #15010 of 15012 Old 09-13-2016, 01:26 AM
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Never was able to resolve. Ended up selling it as is and getting a new 4K TV.
I think I accidently discovered what is wrong with my tv:

HOW TO REPAIR SAMSUNG TV WITH BAD PICTURE (como reparar samsung tv distorcion color)


This is exactly what my picture occasionally looks like. Usually I turn off the set and turn it back on and we are good, but after a while it comes back.

The video says the problem is the gama IC located in the T-con board. Replacing the IC is an option; however for all do it yourselfs, replacing the T-con board is easier and faster.

Anyone ever replace the T-con in a Hlt5676?
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post #15011 of 15012 Old 09-13-2016, 11:14 PM
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I think I accidently discovered what is wrong with my tv:

HOW TO REPAIR SAMSUNG TV WITH BAD PICTURE (como reparar samsung tv distorcion color)


The video says the problem is the gama IC located in the T-con board. Replacing the IC is an option; however for all do it yourselfs, replacing the T-con board is easier and faster.

Anyone ever replace the T-con in a Hlt5676?
I have not seen that problem on anything later than the old HLR series of DLPs but if you are talking about the DMD board that has the DMD chip on it I have put chips in a few of the HLTxx76 series of TV.
It is sort of a "pain in the but" compared to most other series then again that whole TV is a pain to me. there are some strange physical adjustments on that board but I never needed to fool with them when I put a chip in one.
I have a few of those boards here if you need one though.

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post #15012 of 15012 Old 09-14-2016, 04:35 AM
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I have not seen that problem on anything later than the old HLR series of DLPs but if you are talking about the DMD board that has the DMD chip on it I have put chips in a few of the HLTxx76 series of TV.
It is sort of a "pain in the but" compared to most other series then again that whole TV is a pain to me. there are some strange physical adjustments on that board but I never needed to fool with them when I put a chip in one.
I have a few of those boards here if you need one though.
I don't think it is the DMD as the picture doesn't have the white dot problem, just occasionally the colors become blurred washed out and some strobing like in the Youtube video it always corrects itself by merely turning off the set and then turning it back on. I saw something about a bad digital video board?
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