Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 104 - AVS Forum
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post #3091 of 3130 Old 03-08-2014, 01:29 AM
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Hey everyone. Not sure if this is the right place to do this, but since this TV is the item giving me the problem I figured it was the best place to start.... ( If this Belongs in a different place OR one with more traffic - feel free to move it )

I recently got a SIIG 2x1 HDMI Splitter (Brand: SIIG Model: CE-H20J11-S1) to run signal from my cable box (Motorola DCH6416) split to two televisions (Emerson LF320EM4 and Toshiba 65HM167)

Problem: I am getting a flawless video output, but absolutely no audio output from the Toshiba 65HM167

The Quirk: I am getting the complete package, 100% video and audio from the Emerson 32" LED (the second display on the splitter).

Troubleshooting: I have tried both ports of the splitter, all the hdmi ports on the toshiba and it is the same situation. I have verified that the splitter is fully functional by connecting it to two entirely different monitors and with that testing I had complete success with full audio/video output. So I do know / verified that the splitter is 100% functional. The Motorola Cable Box is also ruled out, because when I run a direct line (hdmi cable) from it to the Toshiba everything works fine. I have been through every single audio related setting on the Toshiba with no success.

This is exceptionally confusing, because as far as I understand HDMI. it either works or it doesn't. So how is the video fully functional, but the audio not? The Toshiba audio works just fine without the splitter, BUT it's not the splitters fault per se, because the Emerson (and two other models In the aforementioned testing) are operating just fine when connected to it. It is only the Toshiba. Any thoughts or theories?

As you can see this has me puzzled enough to come asking for AVS great knowledge! If you have any questions or need more info I'll be checking frequently. I know this post is long, so thanks to anyone who took the time to read it.
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post #3092 of 3130 Old 03-08-2014, 11:07 PM
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A significant breakthrough was achieved in trouble shooting earlier tonight!

Earlier it occurred to me to try something else I had not yet. That was to disconnect the HDMI cable to the Emerson. There by having only the Toshiba on the splitter. ah ha! we have sound and video on the Toshiba!

This is obviously significant because it now fully verifies that the splitter and the Toshiba can work together. This also now narrows the issue completely down to the HDMI cable that I used for the run to the Emerson.

My new theorem: That HDMI cable is too thin and therefore causing so much resistance that the splitter has to use all of its power to push the signal and therefore siphoning signal strength from the Toshiba, of which causes detriment to the audio stream.

I suppose now I should list what that HDMI cable is. "Link Depot 25' HDMI Cable" unfortunately I can not confirm what gauge it is, because it is unlisted. Based on my experience, I'd guess it is at around 28gauge, although it could be even worse than that. Which again is why I made my new theory based on this cable being the issue. In fact here, this the cable - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IJY8DS/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i03?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails it DOES work. Just not for this applications "higher demands."

OR I could be wrong all together?! My alternative solution to replacing the HDMI cable with a thicker gauge / higher quality. (which is my leading option) Would be to obtain some type of additional signal booster to put on the HDMI cable for the Toshiba.

So I know I did not get any response originally, but once again I ask what AVS thinks regarding this whole situation and the new development.
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post #3093 of 3130 Old 03-10-2014, 07:34 PM
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Hi, I picked up a 61HM167 off craigslist for free on Sunday. First thing I did was ask owner if it worked of course he said yes and may have white dots. Got it home and took it apart and cleaned all dust from the inside(Lots of it). Then I plugged it and turned the power on. I got no picture checked bulb looked unburnt to me. I ordered a new non OEM for now did not know they were problematic till I read most of this thread anyway. I get the 8 power cycle and that's it. After reading I ordered a Ballast today just in case. Am I missing something? I know DLP chip if white dots are visible. I would like to fix this tv. I love my Samsung HL-T6189S. (LED no Bulb) Thank you for Input. This tv will replace the kids 40in Toshiba lcd in there living room.

 

Just got new bulb that was it. It has white spots so ordering dlp chip. Thanks for your posts made this easy to do.

 

Update... Got the chip from sj put it no dots but I got the vertical lines all across the screen reseated chip several times still no joy. Now have a solid black horizontal bar with the lines. Ordered a dmd board last night off ebay. Sometimes things just don't go easy.  

 

Update 2. Got dmd board today and it works perfect. So Free tv 200 for chip, 70 for bulb 60 for board and 50 for a ballast (not needed) not bad I think for a 65 incher. These dlps rock on hd content. 

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post #3094 of 3130 Old 03-17-2014, 12:30 PM
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Looking at a TV...Toshiba 65HM167. Owner says it has no video or sound but does power on. Has replaced the "DMD chip" in it. Bulb hasn't been replaced.

Any ideas? I can get it for $75 (+ transportation)..worth it?
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post #3095 of 3130 Old 03-21-2014, 08:37 PM
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my 65HM167 is broken.

I get 3 yellow blinks consistently.

the lamp looks good.

I unplugged it for a while, plugged back in, same thing.


Ideas?

Thanks!
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post #3096 of 3130 Old 03-22-2014, 06:11 PM
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I got the TV delivered today. The TV appears to turn on, I hear a "whir whir" sound as it does...then blinks 15 times (the lamp, orange light) and then turns off then does the same thing over.

http://www.justanswer.com/tv-repair/57ikx-toshiba-65hm167-yellow-light-blinks-times.html

After a while it goes to the red blinking with yellow light...guessing that this is a lamp issue? I hope it is that simple.
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post #3097 of 3130 Old 03-23-2014, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cwmizner View Post

my 65HM167 is broken.

I get 3 yellow blinks consistently.

the lamp looks good.

I unplugged it for a while, plugged back in, same thing.


Ideas?

Thanks!


unplugged for a while longer and plugged it back in and it worked, no issues since... beginning of the end or no big deal?
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post #3098 of 3130 Old 04-02-2014, 06:36 AM
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My TV worked with a bulb. smile.gif

That being said, the screen appears to have some sort of 'coating' on it....if you look at light images specifically, you can notice almost a rainbow effect with the pixels...I can see them all like that. It seems like the screen was cleaned with something bad like maybe Windex at one time? I bought a Phillips screen cleaner in hopes to remedy it and that didn't seem to fix it. When I'm into a game or something I don't notice it, but I do during normal viewing and such as I'm particularly anal about that kind of stuff.

Any ideas?
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post #3099 of 3130 Old 04-03-2014, 08:05 PM
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I would clean the inside and outside of the screen with a wet microfiber cloth. Also clean the lens the same way.

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post #3100 of 3130 Old 04-07-2014, 10:51 AM
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By lens, do you mean on the bulb? Thanks for the suggestion.

EDIT: I see after reading what you mean. I'll attempt this when I get home. Thanks!!
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post #3101 of 3130 Old 04-07-2014, 03:23 PM
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Hope it works.

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post #3102 of 3130 Old 04-09-2014, 11:55 AM
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I attempted this yesterday and successfully got the sides of the front removed from the TV. However, the bottom didn't want to come off, and I wasn't sure of how to get it off. I didn't want to bend the panel so I put it back on and put it back together. How exactly do I take the front of the TV off without damaging the screen? The sides slide up and off, but the bottom appeared to be different. I haven't been able to find anything online.

Thanks.
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post #3103 of 3130 Old 04-09-2014, 02:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitarrasdeamor View Post

I attempted this yesterday and successfully got the sides of the front removed from the TV. However, the bottom didn't want to come off, and I wasn't sure of how to get it off. I didn't want to bend the panel so I put it back on and put it back together. How exactly do I take the front of the TV off without damaging the screen? The sides slide up and off, but the bottom appeared to be different. I haven't been able to find anything online.

Thanks.

Someone has said the screws at the bottom of the front are behind the mesh. I didn't want to mess with that so just take the back off and you can clean the inside of the screen and also clean the lens.

You will need to prop the screen with something so it doesn't break I used a chair.

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post #3104 of 3130 Old 04-16-2014, 07:31 AM
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I did end up taking the screws out from the mesh (literally pops in and out) and cleaned it...no difference at all. You can't tell it as much in movies/shows I've noticed but can in videogames like GTA V where you have more bright/white whites. It is annoying but like said when I'm focused I don't notice it. When taking off the screen I looked at it and I could see the coating on it from that back it seemed like..I'm wondering if it is just built into the screen or something.
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post #3105 of 3130 Old 04-16-2014, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Guitarrasdeamor View Post

I did end up taking the screws out from the mesh (literally pops in and out) and cleaned it...no difference at all. You can't tell it as much in movies/shows I've noticed but can in videogames like GTA V where you have more bright/white whites. It is annoying but like said when I'm focused I don't notice it. When taking off the screen I looked at it and I could see the coating on it from that back it seemed like..I'm wondering if it is just built into the screen or something.

I guess since I have had a Samsung Dlp for 6yrs I just don't notice it anymore. But It is slightly more visible on the Toshiba. Different designs. That "rainbow effect" is a common thing to some people.

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post #3106 of 3130 Old 04-16-2014, 04:51 PM
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I saw somewhere that there can be a haze formed on the color wheel on some DLP's that can cause a rainbow effect. There is a youtube video of a guy disassembling and cleaning it thoroughly. Apparently, the bright lights inside the light engine degrade the black plastic light tunnels and forms a haze that sticks to the color wheel and other surfaces inside there. If you cleaned the lens, and the mirror (if there is one), and the back of the screen and you are still having issues, maybe this could help.
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post #3107 of 3130 Old 05-11-2014, 09:19 AM
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Well, the white dot problem finally got me after 6 and a half years. I had purchased a chip from ShopJimmy.com almost 3 years ago for this moment that I knew would come. Using some knowledge gained from this forum and others, I had no trouble swapping the chip.

One thing I would say about this white dot problem is that it may be a good idea to try and prevent the problem by applying a new coat of thermal grease to the heatsink. My white dots started with many dots at the bottom of the screen and then a few in the middle portion. I was not impressed with the thermal paste on the heatsink, so I cleaned it off and applied a new layer. I took the opportunity to vacuum the inside of the box somewhat and used a microfiber cloth on the lens. The cooling fans needed cleaning also.

I hope the next 6 and a half years will be trouble free.
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post #3108 of 3130 Old 05-21-2014, 10:04 AM
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CWMIZNER you will end up having to do this.....at least I did.  Unplugging worked for awhile (+/-8months), but I just went 2 weeks without it working anymore.  I followed the instructions and firmware link on the 2 links below and 30 minutes later TV is up and running again.  Wish I wouldn't have waited so long.   

 

GREAT INSTRUCTIONS HERE

http://www.avsforum.com/t/848073/official-toshiba-65hm167-and-57hm167-owners-thread/2490

 

DOWNLOADED FIRMWARE HERE (worked on 5-20-14)

http://en.allexperts.com/q/TV-VCR-Stereo-1749/2008/7/f/Blinking-yellow-light-Toshiba.htm 

 

Hopefully you have the same luck I did.

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post #3109 of 3130 Old 05-25-2014, 09:50 AM
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I too just got my first dot, set is about 7 years old but it is in a media room and does not get turned on daily.

My one and only question, what part do I need to change?

Lamp Assembly?

DLP Chip?

DMD Board?

If I have to buy one or more of the above, it's getting replaced with a 90 " Sharp. Thats what Ive been wanting for years anyway, just trying to be sensible and save the set from the garbage.

Thanks AVS, always loved this site for help when SOL. lol:cool:
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post #3110 of 3130 Old 05-26-2014, 08:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MBarnesGT View Post

I too just got my first dot, set is about 7 years old but it is in a media room and does not get turned on daily.

My one and only question, what part do I need to change?

Lamp Assembly?

DLP Chip?

DMD Board?

If I have to buy one or more of the above, it's getting replaced with a 90 " Sharp. Thats what Ive been wanting for years anyway, just trying to be sensible and save the set from the garbage.

Thanks AVS, always loved this site for help when SOL. lol:cool:


The chip needs to be replaced. You may also have to replace the board. A lot of people did not need the board replaced, I had to replace my board because the chip did not like the board I had.

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-29427-00l9002g001-toshiba-tv-module-dmd-board-bk80l9002g-57hm167.aspx

http://www.shopjimmy.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=sj-4719-001997

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post #3111 of 3130 Old 05-26-2014, 09:06 AM
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My 65HM167 is coming up on seven years old next month. I'm still on the original bulb and I have not run into the white dot problem. If it does rear it's head, the 65HM167 is going in the trash.
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post #3112 of 3130 Old 06-08-2014, 07:16 PM
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Ok, guess it was bound to happen. I've replaced the chip a couple years ago but didn't need the DMD/formatter board at the time. I have the screen "mosaic", checkerboard, "segmented video" and need to be sure before spending the bucks. It's been coming on for a while, but sometimes it's there, most times not. Some days it can't be avoided.

Here's a pic of the problem:



Fish
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post #3113 of 3130 Old 06-08-2014, 07:21 PM
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When I replaced the chip in my free tv I immediately had that problem. I replaced the board and it works perfectly. Hopefully it will fix your problem. This is where I got mine from. When think about it $60 is cheaper than a new tv.

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-29427-00l9002g001-toshiba-tv-module-dmd-board-bk80l9002g-57hm167.aspx 

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post #3114 of 3130 Old 06-09-2014, 05:25 AM
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Yeah, it's what I figured as well. Just wanted to make sure. I notice that part is listed for the 57 not the 65. If I search it, some sites say it's for both, some say only the 57 like your site and ShopJimmy.
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post #3115 of 3130 Old 06-09-2014, 09:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishman1 View Post

Yeah, it's what I figured as well. Just wanted to make sure. I notice that part is listed for the 57 not the 65. If I search it, some sites say it's for both, some say only the 57 like your site and ShopJimmy.

00.L9002G001

ea

Toshiba TV Module, DMD board, BK.80L90.02G

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post #3116 of 3130 Old 06-09-2014, 09:15 AM
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That is the part I ordered and it worked just fine in my 65.

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post #3117 of 3130 Old 06-09-2014, 03:32 PM
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Yup, those are the only numbers I could come up with also. Excellent! I'll get it ordered from your link as ShopJimmy is out....

Thanks!
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post #3118 of 3130 Old 06-09-2014, 03:32 PM
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Your welcome. Hope all works out for you.

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post #3119 of 3130 Old 06-20-2014, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larrylegado View Post
CWMIZNER you will end up having to do this.....at least I did.  Unplugging worked for awhile (+/-8months), but I just went 2 weeks without it working anymore.  I followed the instructions and firmware link on the 2 links below and 30 minutes later TV is up and running again.  Wish I wouldn't have waited so long.   
 
GREAT INSTRUCTIONS HERE
http://www.avsforum.com/t/848073/off...rs-thread/2490
 
DOWNLOADED FIRMWARE HERE (worked on 5-20-14)
http://en.allexperts.com/q/TV-VCR-St...ht-Toshiba.htm 
 
Hopefully you have the same luck I did.
How were you able to update the firmware without the TV being able to power up? Maybe I'm missing something but when you say "I just went 2 weeks without it working anymore" I assumed you meant the TV wouldn't power up (i.e. the 3 yellow blinking lights issue) but you were able to eventually resolve by applying the 2007SEN069 firmware update.
I'm having the 3 blinking lights issue and the TV doesn't respond at all. I've unplugged for a prolonged period of time but the problem persists. I've read several posts regarding the 3 yellow blinking lights and it seems that there are multiple root causes:

• bad bulbs
• ballast (which as I understand means the whole light engine needs to be replaced)
• firmware update required

Obviously a firmware or even a bad bulb would be better than having to replace the light engine. I'm trying to understand my options and work my way up from cheapest to the light engine and hoping I can resurrect the TV.
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post #3120 of 3130 Old 06-20-2014, 08:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wish View Post
How were you able to update the firmware without the TV being able to power up? Maybe I'm missing something but when you say "I just went 2 weeks without it working anymore" I assumed you meant the TV wouldn't power up (i.e. the 3 yellow blinking lights issue) but you were able to eventually resolve by applying the 2007SEN069 firmware update.
I'm having the 3 blinking lights issue and the TV doesn't respond at all. I've unplugged for a prolonged period of time but the problem persists. I've read several posts regarding the 3 yellow blinking lights and it seems that there are multiple root causes:

• bad bulbs
• ballast (which as I understand means the whole light engine needs to be replaced)
• firmware update required

Obviously a firmware or even a bad bulb would be better than having to replace the light engine. I'm trying to understand my options and work my way up from cheapest to the light engine and hoping I can resurrect the TV.
My TV would not power up. It was stuck with the blinking lights. I followed the instructions exactly and TV is still working great. The TV does not need to be able to power up to receive firmware update. If you are dealing with the same blink code I did and follow the instructions to a T I'm certain this will remedy it. Good luck

Last edited by larrylegado; 06-20-2014 at 08:41 AM.
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