Official Toshiba 65HM167 and 57HM167 Owner's thread - Page 105 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 06-20-2014, 02:39 PM
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Originally Posted by larrylegado View Post
My TV would not power up. It was stuck with the blinking lights. I followed the instructions exactly and TV is still working great. The TV does not need to be able to power up to receive firmware update. If you are dealing with the same blink code I did and follow the instructions to a T I'm certain this will remedy it. Good luck
Seems simple enough but its not working for me. Maybe the card has something to do with it. I'm using a Sandisk 8gb ultra SD. Its the same size as the older generation SD card but maybe the TV can’t read it because its ultra SD or because its 8gb.
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Old 06-20-2014, 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by wish View Post
Seems simple enough but its not working for me. Maybe the card has something to do with it. I'm using a Sandisk 8gb ultra SD. Its the same size as the older generation SD card but maybe the TV can’t read it because its ultra SD or because its 8gb.
You must use the proper SD card stated in the instructions. I went to 3 different places before finally finding at Walmart. Use the correct size card and I'm certain you will have success.
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Old 06-24-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by larrylegado View Post
My TV would not power up. It was stuck with the blinking lights. I followed the instructions exactly and TV is still working great. The TV does not need to be able to power up to receive firmware update. If you are dealing with the same blink code I did and follow the instructions to a T I'm certain this will remedy it. Good luck
Do you know what class card you used? The instructions say that a 2GB card works but doesn't say anything about the class and I would think that would have more to do with it working than the size. I still haven't been able to find a 2GB locally so I tried a class 4 8GB card and it still didn't work. Class 4 is pretty low so at this point it means that the size is a critical criteria OR my TV has other issues (i.e. light engine is toast). I'm going to hunt for a 2GB class 4 card but if that doesn't work I think I have to accept that it has other more serious issues that aren't worth fixing.
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Old 06-24-2014, 05:22 PM
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Found a 2GB class 4 card. No go. Acts like there isn't even a card in the slot. It was certainly worth trying but it looks like mine is the same 3 yellow light blink symptom but a different root cause (I'm guessing the dreaded light engine).
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Old 06-24-2014, 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by wish View Post
Do you know what class card you used? The instructions say that a 2GB card works but doesn't say anything about the class and I would think that would have more to do with it working than the size. I still haven't been able to find a 2GB locally so I tried a class 4 8GB card and it still didn't work. Class 4 is pretty low so at this point it means that the size is a critical criteria OR my TV has other issues (i.e. light engine is toast). I'm going to hunt for a 2GB class 4 card but if that doesn't work I think I have to accept that it has other more serious issues that aren't worth fixing.
The one I used was 2 gig class 4 that is backwards compatible with class 2. Below is a link to exactly what worked for me. Walmart had it in-stock. Also, make sure you after you unzip you transfer all files to card. I seem to remember reading a post where that was the problem one person was having.

http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/PNY-2GB-Premium-Secure-Digital-Memory-Card/11078643
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Old 06-25-2014, 04:27 AM
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The problem with any card over 2GB is that it is the newer SDHC standard which our TVs don't know how to handle. The class refers to transfer speed and shouldn't make any difference.
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Old 07-01-2014, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by larrylegado View Post
The one I used was 2 gig class 4 that is backwards compatible with class 2. Below is a link to exactly what worked for me. Walmart had it in-stock. Also, make sure you after you unzip you transfer all files to card. I seem to remember reading a post where that was the problem one person was having.

http://mobile.walmart.com/ip/PNY-2GB...-Card/11078643
I found that one at my local WM and tried. No such luck...same result. The TV seems DOA other than the 3 blinking lights. I'm was thinking the next likely culprit was the light engine but now leaning towards the power supply. I'm going to take a volt meter and test the voltage on the power supply board (Service Manual says it should have 5 volts on PB80 pins 6 & 7). If not I see used ones on eBay for $65 and will likely give that a shot.

If anyone else on the board has had issues with the power supply board that resulted in the 3 yellow blinking lights I would be very interested to hear!
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Old 07-15-2014, 01:42 PM
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I have an Toshiba 46LX177 which quit working last Thursday, 7/8. I tried the SD card repair method with a 1 GB Sandisk SD card and a 8 GB Sandisk SD card. Both didn't work. For the heck of it, I found a 512MB Sandisk SD card on Ebay for $10 and purchased it.

Received the SD card today, 7/15 and checked to be sure it was formatted FAT. Followed the instructions to unzip the download and copy those files to the 512MB Sandisk SD card. Unplugged the lcd, removed the service cover, inserted the card, plugged back in the lcd. The light flashed yellow a couple of times and then went green and yellow. Unplugged the power cord, removed the 512MB Sandisk and then plugged back in the power cord. Push the button on the LCD and everything is back to normal. I guess that new 4K led will have to wait.

Thank you guys for the repair info.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:33 PM
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Ok, the set has had a problem with the DMD board but has played nice for a while. Today it was showing the mosaic picture, but then went to black and white stripes then wider black than white stripes. So I changed the DMD which I had for a while already. The chip was changed about a year ago. After the change-out I put everything back and fired it up. I got no lamp start. The fan on the DMD housing doesn't start either. Then after 3 attempts it goes to a flashing red and blue led error message (bus error). Could this be the ribbon cable malfunctioning? It has a pretty good crimp in it above the inserted portion and that bend is fairly weak and limp.

I put back the original board and got the steady blue with flashing yellow, but no fire up..

Last edited by Fishman1; 08-21-2014 at 05:36 AM.
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Old 08-21-2014, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Fishman1 View Post
Ok, the set has had a problem with the DMD board but has played nice for a while. Today it was showing the mosaic picture, but then went to black and white stripes then wider black than white stripes. So I changed the DMD which I had for a while already. The chip was changed about a year ago. After the change-out I put everything back and fired it up. I got no lamp start. The fan on the DMD housing doesn't start either. Then after 3 attempts it goes to a flashing red and blue led error message (bus error). Could this be the ribbon cable malfunctioning? It has a pretty good crimp in it above the inserted portion and that bend is fairly weak and limp.

I put back the original board and got the steady blue with flashing yellow, but no fire up..
"bump"
Anybody home? Testing...testing...1.2.3...
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Old 08-23-2014, 10:48 PM
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65HM167 - Need help or it's Gone!

I had the yellow light flash three times, again, and again, and again...you get the picture. I tried the SD card fix with no success. Aside from the flashing yellow light nothing was powering on (none of the fans, etc). Kept reading all over that it was either the Seine boot was corrupted (SD card fix) or the board itself was bad.

For the folks that used the SD card fix and it worked....Was anything else powering up before you tried the fix (fans, etc)?

I even tried to use that site "Just Answer It"....$28 bucks down the drain to have some guy who claimed he has repaired TV's for 30 years tell me I needed to have a technician check it out. I like the TV, but I don't want to sock a lot of $$$ into fixing it. Any help would be appreciated to fix it otherwise I'm going to part it out. Thanks!
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Old 08-27-2014, 03:36 PM
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Anyone know if there's a way to reduce overscan in the service menu?

Some channels are starting to push their graphics even closer to the "edge" -- CNN, with their latest graphics update, has some of the text going slightly off the screen. Still readable, but somewhat annoying.
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Old 09-06-2014, 05:11 PM
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My parents have had this television for nearly a decade and it has been getting pretty dim. A month ago the bulb blew, so we bought a replacement and installed it. The screen is still really dim, wondering what other components deal with screen brightness that may need to be replaced. I am unfamiliar with DLP televisions and can't offer much help.

Thanks for any help!
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Old 09-13-2014, 02:46 PM
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I have a 65HM167 that is about 6 years old. It has been a great TV. I have went through two bulbs and not long ago the screen just went black. No bulb pop or any noise that I recall. The bulb is intact with no visible signs of damage. I ordered a new ballast after reading some other posts on this forum hoping that would fix it to no avail so far. I am getting sound, but no picture and I don't believe I hear the bulb trying to fire. I can visually confirm both fans are running, and there also seems to be a click (but not from the ballast board, more from the color wheel enclosure) then a tenth of a second after I hear two 'wining' sounds that occur maybe a quarter second apart that I would describe as something spinning (a higher pitch, not bad and I recognize the sound from when the TV was working)- though I don't believe these sounds are coming from the fans. It sounds like the sounds come from the color wheel area so I'm guessing it is operating. I can see a green light on the board that sits vertically that is by the power supply board. On the front, I will get a blue light, then the yellow light will flash 15 times and everything will start over (click, two whining sounds, 15 blinks from from yellow led). This process repeats several times and then I get a red light. So all in all, I get sound, no picture, no menus, no bulb strike. Does anyone have any ideas what I should try next? If there is a way to test the bulb, the ballast, or any other parts that might be causing that that would also be greatly appreciated. I sure hate to loose this TV, it has really been a good one. And even more I hate to drop another $1,500-$2,000 for a new 65" flat screen. Thanks so much for the help!!
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Old 09-13-2014, 02:51 PM
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NeoandGeo- my recommendation would be to take off all of the screws that hold on the outer rim of the front screen then remove the front and set it aside. It might sound hard but is actually very simple. I believe there are 8-10 screws. From there you can easily access and clean the lens with a lint free cloth (use some non-abrasive). You can also clean the mirrors if you like. This will made an enormous difference. The first time I did mine I couldn't believe how big of a difference it made. If you like I can send you pictures and better instructions on how to do this.

Brock
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Old 01-25-2015, 08:28 AM
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Hello All,
In Feb 2008, I bought this TV (65HM167). It is still working great. Still on the original lamp. I have a spare original Toshiba lamp as a spare that I have not even used. My TV was serviced once under an extended warranty for the white dot issue back in 2012. What might I try and sell this TV for on a local for sale page?


Thanks much...
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Old 01-25-2015, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by DJPellegrino View Post
Hello All,
In Feb 2008, I bought this TV (65HM167). It is still working great. Still on the original lamp. I have a spare original Toshiba lamp as a spare that I have not even used. My TV was serviced once under an extended warranty for the white dot issue back in 2012. What might I try and sell this TV for on a local for sale page?


Thanks much...
I'd guess $300 to $400 with flatscreens priced so low today?

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Old 01-30-2015, 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Brock207 View Post
NeoandGeo- my recommendation would be to take off all of the screws that hold on the outer rim of the front screen then remove the front and set it aside. It might sound hard but is actually very simple. I believe there are 8-10 screws. From there you can easily access and clean the lens with a lint free cloth (use some non-abrasive). You can also clean the mirrors if you like. This will made an enormous difference. The first time I did mine I couldn't believe how big of a difference it made. If you like I can send you pictures and better instructions on how to do this.

Brock
I would love to see some pics of this. I'm sure that's whats wrong with mine. I have replaced the DLP chip and 2 or 3 bulbs. But just getting dimmer all the time.


Thanks


I found it on page 86 on how to take the Front screen off. I cleaned the lens, but it wasn't that dusty. So it doesn't look like it did much for the brightness of the screen. Any one else got any ideas to get the screen brighter. I'll keep looking thru the form and see if I can find an answer.

Last edited by cram904; 02-06-2015 at 11:35 AM.
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Old 02-24-2015, 04:55 PM
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white dots

I spent $2,000 USD on this TV, and now I have this manufacturing defect.

I called Toshiba on three different occasions, and just got outsourced to people whom didn't care.

They gave me three numbers to call for authorized repair centers. All three repair centers acknowledged the ongoing issue. One of the companies confirmed that Mitsubishi and Samsung also had this issue. However, Samsung was offering to repair the issue free of cost, and Mitsubishi would pay half of the repair cost. Toshiba will not even acknowledge the issue. One of the companies confirmed they are no longer dealing with Toshiba repairs due to poor customer service. All three companies said they would fix it themselves, but at a cost of 500 (on average).

I'm not spending another 500 on a chip due to their manufacturing defect.

If anyone is aware of any phone numbers I can call that I can talk to someone who can actually resolve this issue, please let me know. If you know of any class action lawsuit, please contact me. I would love to help in any way to force Toshiba to be held accountable for their actions. My email address is SRVIVER104 @ AOL . COM

thank you,
Carl
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by srviver104 View Post
white dots

I spent $2,000 USD on this TV, and now I have this manufacturing defect.

I called Toshiba on three different occasions, and just got outsourced to people whom didn't care.

They gave me three numbers to call for authorized repair centers. All three repair centers acknowledged the ongoing issue. One of the companies confirmed that Mitsubishi and Samsung also had this issue. However, Samsung was offering to repair the issue free of cost, and Mitsubishi would pay half of the repair cost. Toshiba will not even acknowledge the issue. One of the companies confirmed they are no longer dealing with Toshiba repairs due to poor customer service. All three companies said they would fix it themselves, but at a cost of 500 (on average).

I'm not spending another 500 on a chip due to their manufacturing defect.

If anyone is aware of any phone numbers I can call that I can talk to someone who can actually resolve this issue, please let me know. If you know of any class action lawsuit, please contact me. I would love to help in any way to force Toshiba to be held accountable for their actions. My email address is SRVIVER104 @ AOL . COM

thank you,
Carl

The white dots (stuck pixels) is a common issue with the DLP RPTVs. Replacement DLP chips cost under $200. I replaced it myself a couple of years ago on my 65HM167 Toshiba. I took me less than two hours, being extra careful and taking it slow. There are Youtube videos for doing the repair. The DMD chip is in a socket, similar to a CPU socket in a desktop PC, so no soldering required for the repair. The two links are sources for the chip itself and the three videos on Youtube show you how to remove the light engine then replacing the DLP chip.:


http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-mit...7-dlp-chip.htm
http://www.howtorepairtv.com/index.p...5HM117_65HM167

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Last edited by Ron Jones; 03-01-2015 at 04:37 PM.
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