2007 Samsung HL-Txx76 Owner's Thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1951 of 1965 Old 02-20-2013, 11:50 AM
Member
 
mrbrian200's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 51
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Liked: 11

There are a few things that can cause this, since you're not getting the bulb/ballast error (blinking indicator lights) and the bulb is new...  In order, these are the first things I would check...  1) verify that both fans are running adequately, I dont know the spec, they aren't super fast like a computer CPU, I believe around 200-500 RPM.  2) With an ohmmeter or continuity tester, check the lamp door switch: check that the switch closes as you move it, and stays closed as you toggle through it's range of motion.  3) Check/replace thermstat (detail below).  4) The switch board (buttons on side of the TV) is known to cause issues.  See detail below.  From here on out things get expensive...you'll want to buy or find a copy of the service manual, or if you're not technically oriented take it to a qualified repair shop, or disclose it's problem and unload it on craigslist for $100...  5) Check/replace main SMPS  6) Check/replace Ballast  7)Check/replace Main board  8)Check/replace DMD board.

 

(thermostat detail):  The service manual I have for the 5676 shows a LED based lamp in the schematics (the 5676 is not a LED model, but uses a mercury discharge lamp)... therefore I can "educated guess" because connector CN805 where the thermstat plugs in serves a different function on the LED based models.  The thermostat appears to be an electromechanical on/off switch.  It should be closed (0 ohms) at room temperature.  At some unknown temperature threshhold it should open/break continuity.  Thermal switches of this nature fail often (also found in vehicle engines and furnace/AC).  They either open prematurely at a lower temperature, dont open at all, or never close when appropriate.  It's a $5 part if you've ruled out (1-2-4) above with no luck, I'd try replacing it before you graduate to costly board/ballast replacements.

 

(switch board detail): On the upper/right corner of the main board there is a group of 4 connectors. Switch board is the second connector from top corner (4 wires). Unplug that connector and try running the TV with the remote. There's a logic chip on the switch board that (my thereory is) gets zapped by static when you press a button or touch the chassis and thereafter malfunctions as if one or more buttons were intermitently or permanently depressed. The TV will still work with the remote when the switch board unplugged/disabled. Try it.  I also have a HLT5075 intermittantly acted as though the volume down was depressed, the actual switches on the board tested fine (not physically stuck), unplugging the switch board from the main solved the issue.  I could replace the board, but how often do I use those buttons... once a year?

 

Finally: Don't rule out the new bulb as a potential problem (even if it's a Phillips).  I've picked up two of these 5676's in the last year off CL for $100 ea, the second one original owners sold because "it was dark, we replaced the bulb but it still wasnt half as bright as new..we decided to buy a new TV".  They still had the recipt from the new bulb, a Phillips (verified - I looked at the markings on the reflector).   I cleaned and probed assuming that new bulb was "good", replaced the ballast, worked on the SMPS, and wasn't getting anywhere.   Eventually I took that new bulb to my sister's house and plugged it into the 5676 I gave her (that is nice and bright).  Wholla!   Failing/defective bulbs are well documented to produce dramatically more heat and trip the thermostat.  Its not a problem with the thermostat (it's doing it's job preventing a fire hazard), it's the bulb.  OE Phillips bulbs have a dramatically lower defect rate than aftermarket, but as I found, arent absolutely 100% either.   My personal policy has become to buy aftermarket bulbs in pairs, run both of them through a burn in period (about 100 hours), then shelve one until it's needed.  If you suspect one isn't right you'll have another to compare, and 100 hours will generally reveal critical defects within the warranty period.  I personally have had great results with Buslink bulbs (between 3 TVs).  One of them, a HLT5075 replaced OE with Buslink 2 years ago.  That TV is on a minimum 8 hours/day the Buslink holding out well.

mrbrian200 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #1952 of 1965 Old 08-14-2013, 11:35 AM
Newbie
 
cequil2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So I have read through some of this thread and searched the internet but haven't found any updates yet. My tv is doing the same thing a couple of people have reported on here but can't seem ot find any answers. I press the power button and the everything seems to be ok, the tv chimes, lamp lights up (assume the color wheel is moving if the lamp lights and assume the ballast is fine if the lamp lights), but screen remains black and then shuts down. I have had several different error codes in my attempts, lamp light blinking, standby/temp on.

Looking at the power supply it looks like one of the caps is bulged up and there is a spot on the board that looks burnt almost (discolored a dark brown). Is my assumption correct that it is probalby the power supply if everything else seems to be going. Like I said my assumption is the color wheel and balast are good since the lamp is on...even if it isn't bright I should see something if the other boards or ok right?

Another odd thing is the blue switch on the door doesn't seem to be doing anything...took the back cover off and was still able to power up, at least the lamp, without touching the switch.

Any opinions?
cequil2 is offline  
post #1953 of 1965 Old 09-04-2013, 09:38 AM
Newbie
 
cequil2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just as an update to my situation....turns out the power board, DMD Board and Chip were all still good and the main board was bad. I replaced the main board and it fixed the tv.
cequil2 is offline  
post #1954 of 1965 Old 01-07-2014, 07:20 PM
Newbie
 
sanseven77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

 

 

 

So all of a sudden my tv started showing blue fuzzy almost pixels in high contrast areas very noticeable when using my ps3. Any ideas?

sanseven77 is offline  
post #1955 of 1965 Old 01-08-2014, 06:38 AM
Senior Member
 
JOE.G's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 326
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I am not sure but I still love this tv, Even though it has some issues the Picture great. I only use mine for Movies here and there and Gaming ( dont have much time for either ) so mine has very little hrs on it still.

Samsung HL-T6176S 1080P DLP
Panasonic DMP BD55
Onkyo HT-SR800 7.1
Samsung PN50A650 1080P Plasma
Panasonic DMP BD 85 K
Samsung LN32C530F1F
Panasonic DMP BD10 A
JOE.G is offline  
post #1956 of 1965 Old 01-08-2014, 02:16 PM
Newbie
 
sanseven77's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So the odd thing is that I can't really see it when I'm playing a video game
sanseven77 is offline  
post #1957 of 1965 Old 01-19-2014, 04:22 AM
Member
 
blastinbill's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 23
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I purchased the HL-T6176S in Sept. 2007 and never had a problem with it (except for having to tweak to minimize the screen geometry problems), but about two months ago I started having start-up problems, with about 3000 hrs on the TV. I noticed that as the temperatures in the room got colder (below 70) it seemed like the TV would need multiple attempts at starting, the number of which seemed to progressively increase as the temps got colder (lower 60's). I changed lamps, with no effect. Sometimes the color wheel would not start, sometimes it would; sometimes the lamp would come on for a few seconds without a picture, then go off, sometimes with a picture for 15 seconds or so, then go off; sometimes after multiple tries at starting, with me pressing the remote "on" continuously, all controls would lock-up and the power plug would have to be pulled to restart. However, even after multiple start attempts, the tv would eventually stay on at each sitting and operate perfectly. A repairman was called in and bypassed the lamp door switch with a jumper--no effect; replaced the power-supply board--no effect; and then replaced the main board, which completely fixed the problem. The board was $185, with exchange; labor (in-house) was $200.

Although RPTV's have good full on-off screen C/R's, the ANSI C/R (checkerboard pattern) is always poor (<1000/1), which leads to the viewing impression of a resolution softness compared to the modern-day plasmas and LCD's, which really pop with great C/R's.
blastinbill is offline  
post #1958 of 1965 Old 01-19-2014, 06:32 PM
Member
 
Nerdful1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maine, grew up mostly in NH. hope to move back.
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
better than a commercial movie house screen with c/r of 150 or so due to exit sign and isle lights....
Nerdful1 is offline  
post #1959 of 1965 Old 01-19-2014, 06:52 PM
Member
 
Nerdful1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Maine, grew up mostly in NH. hope to move back.
Posts: 24
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
sanseven77, do you have kids?

One could have pulled off the porthole in the back of the set and ran finger over dusty optics. Sort of like "wash me" on a dirty car.
Nerdful1 is offline  
post #1960 of 1965 Old 03-29-2014, 08:25 AM
Newbie
 
Weavz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote: Markywmson
 
I searched in this thread and this problem comes up a couple times, but there are no replies. So I figure I'll ask again.

I have a 6176S and after about 2 minutes I start seeing a pulsing in the brightness. It's very noticeable while sitting on the PS3 store home page, or the Comcast guide page (both with bright blue backgrounds). The whites turn yellowish to bright white.

There sounds like a cycling of a fan or something behind, but I can't tell where the noise is specifically coming from. I have replaced the bulb (with enclosure) and the color wheel and also have blown out a lot of dust that was inside.

I'm not sure where to go next. I'd like to fix it on my own, since I'm sure a tech will cost me an arm and a leg. Could this be a ballast going? Fan not cooling it down properly and it is overheating?

It's truly not the end of the world, but it's really annoying.

I just replaced my bulb in the 5076s and am having this issue.  Does anyone know what the problem is?  

Weavz is offline  
post #1961 of 1965 Old 03-30-2014, 04:52 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,576
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 47
Non-OEM aftermarket lamp?

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
Augerhandle is offline  
post #1962 of 1965 Old 03-30-2014, 06:37 AM
Newbie
 
Weavz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10

Yes.  I have a second bulb (couldn't wait till after the weekend).  Does it have to do with Heating/temps?  I didn't do any cleaning of dust (for fear of disrupting dust onto chip and creating "spots" on the image.)

 

I don't have any "noise" like the original issue posted, just the brightness "flicker".  


Thanks for your help.  Wasn't sure if there was anyone still around with this TV.  I bought mine on Ebay for $500 about 6 years ago, and just now had to replace the bulb.  Great picture for the money!

Weavz is offline  
post #1963 of 1965 Old 03-30-2014, 06:41 AM
Newbie
 
Weavz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by blastinbill View Post

I purchased the HL-T6176S in Sept. 2007 and never had a problem with it (except for having to tweak to minimize the screen geometry problems), but about two months ago I started having start-up problems, with about 3000 hrs on the TV. I noticed that as the temperatures in the room got colder (below 70) it seemed like the TV would need multiple attempts at starting, the number of which seemed to progressively increase as the temps got colder (lower 60's). I changed lamps, with no effect. Sometimes the color wheel would not start, sometimes it would; sometimes the lamp would come on for a few seconds without a picture, then go off, sometimes with a picture for 15 seconds or so, then go off; sometimes after multiple tries at starting, with me pressing the remote "on" continuously, all controls would lock-up and the power plug would have to be pulled to restart. However, even after multiple start attempts, the tv would eventually stay on at each sitting and operate perfectly. A repairman was called in and bypassed the lamp door switch with a jumper--no effect; replaced the power-supply board--no effect; and then replaced the main board, which completely fixed the problem. The board was $185, with exchange; labor (in-house) was $200.

Although RPTV's have good full on-off screen C/R's, the ANSI C/R (checkerboard pattern) is always poor (<1000/1), which leads to the viewing impression of a resolution softness compared to the modern-day plasmas and LCD's, which really pop with great C/R's.

While I agree the C/R isn't as good.  I for one cannot stand how the new screens and their refresh rates "change" the image to be *TOO* crisp.  Movies look like you're on the set, not in the scene.  

 

Reliability is a deal breaker though.  Even if you get a heck of a deal ($500 for my 5076, 6 years ago), repair costs make it more challenging to stay "pot committed."

Weavz is offline  
post #1964 of 1965 Old 04-02-2014, 05:12 PM
Newbie
 
Weavz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
So why does everything go to crap after replacing the bulb? Now the set is powering off after 2 minutes and then powering back on. Is this still just a bulb issue, or something more?
Weavz is offline  
post #1965 of 1965 Old 04-03-2014, 07:47 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Augerhandle's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,576
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Liked: 47
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weavz View Post

So why does everything go to crap after replacing the bulb? Now the set is powering off after 2 minutes and then powering back on. Is this still just a bulb issue, or something more?

Aftermarket lamps are known to play havoc with the electronics. Did you get a genuine, Samsung supplied lamp?

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
Augerhandle is offline  
Reply Rear Projection Units

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off