2007 Samsung HL-Txx76 Owner's Thread - Page 66 - AVS Forum
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post #1951 of 1978 Old 02-20-2013, 12:50 PM
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There are a few things that can cause this, since you're not getting the bulb/ballast error (blinking indicator lights) and the bulb is new...  In order, these are the first things I would check...  1) verify that both fans are running adequately, I dont know the spec, they aren't super fast like a computer CPU, I believe around 200-500 RPM.  2) With an ohmmeter or continuity tester, check the lamp door switch: check that the switch closes as you move it, and stays closed as you toggle through it's range of motion.  3) Check/replace thermstat (detail below).  4) The switch board (buttons on side of the TV) is known to cause issues.  See detail below.  From here on out things get expensive...you'll want to buy or find a copy of the service manual, or if you're not technically oriented take it to a qualified repair shop, or disclose it's problem and unload it on craigslist for $100...  5) Check/replace main SMPS  6) Check/replace Ballast  7)Check/replace Main board  8)Check/replace DMD board.

 

(thermostat detail):  The service manual I have for the 5676 shows a LED based lamp in the schematics (the 5676 is not a LED model, but uses a mercury discharge lamp)... therefore I can "educated guess" because connector CN805 where the thermstat plugs in serves a different function on the LED based models.  The thermostat appears to be an electromechanical on/off switch.  It should be closed (0 ohms) at room temperature.  At some unknown temperature threshhold it should open/break continuity.  Thermal switches of this nature fail often (also found in vehicle engines and furnace/AC).  They either open prematurely at a lower temperature, dont open at all, or never close when appropriate.  It's a $5 part if you've ruled out (1-2-4) above with no luck, I'd try replacing it before you graduate to costly board/ballast replacements.

 

(switch board detail): On the upper/right corner of the main board there is a group of 4 connectors. Switch board is the second connector from top corner (4 wires). Unplug that connector and try running the TV with the remote. There's a logic chip on the switch board that (my thereory is) gets zapped by static when you press a button or touch the chassis and thereafter malfunctions as if one or more buttons were intermitently or permanently depressed. The TV will still work with the remote when the switch board unplugged/disabled. Try it.  I also have a HLT5075 intermittantly acted as though the volume down was depressed, the actual switches on the board tested fine (not physically stuck), unplugging the switch board from the main solved the issue.  I could replace the board, but how often do I use those buttons... once a year?

 

Finally: Don't rule out the new bulb as a potential problem (even if it's a Phillips).  I've picked up two of these 5676's in the last year off CL for $100 ea, the second one original owners sold because "it was dark, we replaced the bulb but it still wasnt half as bright as new..we decided to buy a new TV".  They still had the recipt from the new bulb, a Phillips (verified - I looked at the markings on the reflector).   I cleaned and probed assuming that new bulb was "good", replaced the ballast, worked on the SMPS, and wasn't getting anywhere.   Eventually I took that new bulb to my sister's house and plugged it into the 5676 I gave her (that is nice and bright).  Wholla!   Failing/defective bulbs are well documented to produce dramatically more heat and trip the thermostat.  Its not a problem with the thermostat (it's doing it's job preventing a fire hazard), it's the bulb.  OE Phillips bulbs have a dramatically lower defect rate than aftermarket, but as I found, arent absolutely 100% either.   My personal policy has become to buy aftermarket bulbs in pairs, run both of them through a burn in period (about 100 hours), then shelve one until it's needed.  If you suspect one isn't right you'll have another to compare, and 100 hours will generally reveal critical defects within the warranty period.  I personally have had great results with Buslink bulbs (between 3 TVs).  One of them, a HLT5075 replaced OE with Buslink 2 years ago.  That TV is on a minimum 8 hours/day the Buslink holding out well.

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post #1952 of 1978 Old 08-14-2013, 12:35 PM
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So I have read through some of this thread and searched the internet but haven't found any updates yet. My tv is doing the same thing a couple of people have reported on here but can't seem ot find any answers. I press the power button and the everything seems to be ok, the tv chimes, lamp lights up (assume the color wheel is moving if the lamp lights and assume the ballast is fine if the lamp lights), but screen remains black and then shuts down. I have had several different error codes in my attempts, lamp light blinking, standby/temp on.

Looking at the power supply it looks like one of the caps is bulged up and there is a spot on the board that looks burnt almost (discolored a dark brown). Is my assumption correct that it is probalby the power supply if everything else seems to be going. Like I said my assumption is the color wheel and balast are good since the lamp is on...even if it isn't bright I should see something if the other boards or ok right?

Another odd thing is the blue switch on the door doesn't seem to be doing anything...took the back cover off and was still able to power up, at least the lamp, without touching the switch.

Any opinions?
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post #1953 of 1978 Old 09-04-2013, 10:38 AM
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Just as an update to my situation....turns out the power board, DMD Board and Chip were all still good and the main board was bad. I replaced the main board and it fixed the tv.
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post #1954 of 1978 Old 01-07-2014, 08:20 PM
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So all of a sudden my tv started showing blue fuzzy almost pixels in high contrast areas very noticeable when using my ps3. Any ideas?

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post #1955 of 1978 Old 01-08-2014, 07:38 AM
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I am not sure but I still love this tv, Even though it has some issues the Picture great. I only use mine for Movies here and there and Gaming ( dont have much time for either ) so mine has very little hrs on it still.

Samsung HL-T6176S 1080P DLP
Panasonic DMP BD55
Onkyo HT-SR800 7.1
Samsung PN50A650 1080P Plasma
Panasonic DMP BD 85 K
Samsung LN32C530F1F
Panasonic DMP BD10 A
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post #1956 of 1978 Old 01-08-2014, 03:16 PM
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So the odd thing is that I can't really see it when I'm playing a video game
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post #1957 of 1978 Old 01-19-2014, 05:22 AM
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I purchased the HL-T6176S in Sept. 2007 and never had a problem with it (except for having to tweak to minimize the screen geometry problems), but about two months ago I started having start-up problems, with about 3000 hrs on the TV. I noticed that as the temperatures in the room got colder (below 70) it seemed like the TV would need multiple attempts at starting, the number of which seemed to progressively increase as the temps got colder (lower 60's). I changed lamps, with no effect. Sometimes the color wheel would not start, sometimes it would; sometimes the lamp would come on for a few seconds without a picture, then go off, sometimes with a picture for 15 seconds or so, then go off; sometimes after multiple tries at starting, with me pressing the remote "on" continuously, all controls would lock-up and the power plug would have to be pulled to restart. However, even after multiple start attempts, the tv would eventually stay on at each sitting and operate perfectly. A repairman was called in and bypassed the lamp door switch with a jumper--no effect; replaced the power-supply board--no effect; and then replaced the main board, which completely fixed the problem. The board was $185, with exchange; labor (in-house) was $200.

Although RPTV's have good full on-off screen C/R's, the ANSI C/R (checkerboard pattern) is always poor (<1000/1), which leads to the viewing impression of a resolution softness compared to the modern-day plasmas and LCD's, which really pop with great C/R's.
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post #1958 of 1978 Old 01-19-2014, 07:32 PM
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better than a commercial movie house screen with c/r of 150 or so due to exit sign and isle lights....
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post #1959 of 1978 Old 01-19-2014, 07:52 PM
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sanseven77, do you have kids?

One could have pulled off the porthole in the back of the set and ran finger over dusty optics. Sort of like "wash me" on a dirty car.
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post #1960 of 1978 Old 03-29-2014, 09:25 AM
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Quote: Markywmson
 
I searched in this thread and this problem comes up a couple times, but there are no replies. So I figure I'll ask again.

I have a 6176S and after about 2 minutes I start seeing a pulsing in the brightness. It's very noticeable while sitting on the PS3 store home page, or the Comcast guide page (both with bright blue backgrounds). The whites turn yellowish to bright white.

There sounds like a cycling of a fan or something behind, but I can't tell where the noise is specifically coming from. I have replaced the bulb (with enclosure) and the color wheel and also have blown out a lot of dust that was inside.

I'm not sure where to go next. I'd like to fix it on my own, since I'm sure a tech will cost me an arm and a leg. Could this be a ballast going? Fan not cooling it down properly and it is overheating?

It's truly not the end of the world, but it's really annoying.

I just replaced my bulb in the 5076s and am having this issue.  Does anyone know what the problem is?  

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post #1961 of 1978 Old 03-30-2014, 05:52 AM
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Non-OEM aftermarket lamp?

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
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post #1962 of 1978 Old 03-30-2014, 07:37 AM
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Yes.  I have a second bulb (couldn't wait till after the weekend).  Does it have to do with Heating/temps?  I didn't do any cleaning of dust (for fear of disrupting dust onto chip and creating "spots" on the image.)

 

I don't have any "noise" like the original issue posted, just the brightness "flicker".  


Thanks for your help.  Wasn't sure if there was anyone still around with this TV.  I bought mine on Ebay for $500 about 6 years ago, and just now had to replace the bulb.  Great picture for the money!

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post #1963 of 1978 Old 03-30-2014, 07:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blastinbill View Post

I purchased the HL-T6176S in Sept. 2007 and never had a problem with it (except for having to tweak to minimize the screen geometry problems), but about two months ago I started having start-up problems, with about 3000 hrs on the TV. I noticed that as the temperatures in the room got colder (below 70) it seemed like the TV would need multiple attempts at starting, the number of which seemed to progressively increase as the temps got colder (lower 60's). I changed lamps, with no effect. Sometimes the color wheel would not start, sometimes it would; sometimes the lamp would come on for a few seconds without a picture, then go off, sometimes with a picture for 15 seconds or so, then go off; sometimes after multiple tries at starting, with me pressing the remote "on" continuously, all controls would lock-up and the power plug would have to be pulled to restart. However, even after multiple start attempts, the tv would eventually stay on at each sitting and operate perfectly. A repairman was called in and bypassed the lamp door switch with a jumper--no effect; replaced the power-supply board--no effect; and then replaced the main board, which completely fixed the problem. The board was $185, with exchange; labor (in-house) was $200.

Although RPTV's have good full on-off screen C/R's, the ANSI C/R (checkerboard pattern) is always poor (<1000/1), which leads to the viewing impression of a resolution softness compared to the modern-day plasmas and LCD's, which really pop with great C/R's.

While I agree the C/R isn't as good.  I for one cannot stand how the new screens and their refresh rates "change" the image to be *TOO* crisp.  Movies look like you're on the set, not in the scene.  

 

Reliability is a deal breaker though.  Even if you get a heck of a deal ($500 for my 5076, 6 years ago), repair costs make it more challenging to stay "pot committed."

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post #1964 of 1978 Old 04-02-2014, 06:12 PM
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So why does everything go to crap after replacing the bulb? Now the set is powering off after 2 minutes and then powering back on. Is this still just a bulb issue, or something more?
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post #1965 of 1978 Old 04-03-2014, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weavz View Post

So why does everything go to crap after replacing the bulb? Now the set is powering off after 2 minutes and then powering back on. Is this still just a bulb issue, or something more?

Aftermarket lamps are known to play havoc with the electronics. Did you get a genuine, Samsung supplied lamp?

"The wise understand by themselves; fools follow the reports of others"-Tibetan Proverb
 
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post #1966 of 1978 Old 10-29-2014, 03:18 AM
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Resurrecting old thread.

I just bought one of these from someone on craigslist for $50, knowing that a lot of people have had geometry issues (but for only $50, I think it's worth the risk). Image is slightly tilted and dim, but no distortion other than that. New lamp is being sent overnight, and I should be happy once I adjust the image and install the new lamp. The fan is a bit loud so I'll clean it and vacuum the 7 years of dust in there too. I'll report back soon.
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post #1967 of 1978 Old 10-29-2014, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by yuri53122 View Post
Resurrecting old thread.

I just bought one of these from someone on craigslist for $50, knowing that a lot of people have had geometry issues (but for only $50, I think it's worth the risk). Image is slightly tilted and dim, but no distortion other than that. New lamp is being sent overnight, and I should be happy once I adjust the image and install the new lamp. The fan is a bit loud so I'll clean it and vacuum the 7 years of dust in there too. I'll report back soon.
I am looking to sell mine as well but it's in perfect working order so I would want I decent amount more than 50 bucks

anyway, good luck

if the geometry is off, use a small cardboard shim under one side or the other under the stand
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post #1968 of 1978 Old 10-30-2014, 02:17 PM
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I don't know if you pulled the light engine out of the chassis: On these (..xx76) sets if with the new bulb it still looks dark with a soft focus/washed out PQ you'll need to clean the top side optics (plate glass, shaped mirrors and the trapezoid shaped optic where the light exits the light tunnel, large glass mirror on the top/rear of chassis) . Treat the light engine optics with extreme care: they are plastic and are held in alignment by delicate means (shaped mirrors, particurarly the square/concave one). Don't remove the shaped mirrors, clean them in place with a very light touch and equal pressure applied from the back. Polarization coatings on all of it is sensitive to barely perceptible oils that can transfer from your fingers via a cloth (use a precision lens cleaner/not windex and/or a NIB high quality microfiber for careful/light buffing). I might even recommend wearing surgical gloves (non powdered). On the two x76 sets I have worked on, there was a bit of film/hazing on the internal light tunnel optics and on the face of the DMD that I also cleaned. Don't mess inside the light tunnel unless you're highly adept at pulling things apart and getting them back together ***precisely** and have a good dust and smoke free environment to work in. Disassemble and reassemble carefully and only as needed to get at what you need to.

With a good bulb and clean optics the PQ should strike you as equal to noticably better than the vast majority of flat panels you'll see on display at in various retailers with a fair number downright awful by comparison. If you don't find this the case then you have some lingering issue to address with the set (bulb, ballast, color wheel index timing, improper cleaning, CCA, failing DMD)
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post #1969 of 1978 Old 10-30-2014, 10:37 PM
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I'm still amazed at how good this set looks, but I did notice something odd. It appears that there are scratches on the back of the screen. Is there any way to fix this without replacing it (I'm assuming they're expensive)? I can only notice it on a static single color image.
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post #1970 of 1978 Old 11-01-2014, 09:23 PM
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The "back side of the screen" is actually a separate layer/ piece of plastic. Its a fresnel lens with a fine circular "embossed" face. Very easy to damage. Don't touch it with anything but a clean high quality microfiber and follow the circular pattern. Technically replaceable. Don't discount the idea that it might be smudging or dust on the mirrors/in the light engine etc. I've seen a set with something that looked sort of like a scratch on the screen's backside that went away when I cleaned the large chassis mirror and light engine optics.

The 56" is very bright and vibrant. Bulb wattage is the same as larger sets but squeezed into a smaller area. 50" and smaller use a lower wattage bulb. If you like it (or need it) bright, the 56 will deliver. It was the only set I've ever tried/used where dark scenes/movies were clearly watchable in a room full of south facing windows/open drapes on a sunny day. The 67A750 (I have now) max brightness compares to a 5676 with contrast set to around 70. The 750 is remarkably better at highly saturated colors though, particularly on the dark end of the spectrum (ultra realistic gut churning dark bloody blood red).
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post #1971 of 1978 Old 11-03-2014, 12:07 AM
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Don't discount the idea that it might be smudging or dust on the mirrors/in the light engine etc.
Unfortunately, there are scratches on the back of the screen itself, as seen through the porthole on the back. I can't see the scratches unless I'm standing right at the screen, so that's a plus.

On a side note, the only complaint that I do have is there's a bit of a "shimmering" effect with bright images. I'm thinking either cleaning the front of the screen, or taking the light engine out and using optics cleaner on all glass/mirrors I can find.
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post #1972 of 1978 Old 11-03-2014, 08:17 AM
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Shimmering effect on bright images is the color wheel. At the onset of failure it spins up to 10,000 RPM but doesn't maintain a constant speed while running, this will be most noticeable on bright images. As it gets worse the RPM drops further and the shimmering will become slow enough you'll be able to pick out the different colors or the wheel will seize, or the set wont POST (turn on). These use air bearings - I've tried cleaning as opposed to replacement with good results. VTR head cleaning fluid, the blue (low lint) paper towels they sell at auto parts stores and a can of compressed air work the best for me. Being an air bearing once you remove the bare wheel from the assembly it just pulls apart. My impression is that the actual bearing isn't the problem - dust is attracted /sticks to the windings that creates drag in the narrow channel in which they go (where you want to focus most of your attention). It's clean/workable when you slide the wheel back onto the armature, after it finds/seats itself into the proper position with a finger flick spin down slowly in 7-10 seconds and turning it freely by hand you shouldn't feel any resistance. It can take a couple tries. Clean any fingerprints off the optic/color segments religiously under a bright light.
--or you can just order a new one, they're around $80 to $100.
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post #1973 of 1978 Old 11-03-2014, 08:31 AM
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Shimmering effect on bright images is the color wheel. At the onset of failure it spins up to 10,000 RPM but doesn't maintain a constant speed while running, this will be most noticeable on bright images. As it gets worse the RPM drops further and the shimmering will become slow enough you'll be able to pick out the different colors or the wheel will seize, or the set wont POST (turn on). These use air bearings - I've tried cleaning as opposed to replacement with good results. VTR head cleaning fluid, the blue (low lint) paper towels they sell at auto parts stores and a can of compressed air work the best for me. Being an air bearing once you remove the bare wheel from the assembly it just pulls apart. My impression is that the actual bearing isn't the problem - dust is attracted /sticks to the windings that creates drag in the narrow channel in which they go (where you want to focus most of your attention). It's clean/workable when you slide the wheel back onto the armature, after it finds/seats itself into the proper position with a finger flick spin down slowly in 7-10 seconds and turning it freely by hand you shouldn't feel any resistance. It can take a couple tries. Clean any fingerprints off the optic/color segments religiously under a bright light.
--or you can just order a new one, they're around $80 to $100.
I like a good challenge, I like to tinker. Think I'll hold off on that until I get my 73" Mitsu's DLP chip replaced though. On a side note, I'll be replacing the 80mm and 60mm cooling fans in the sammy with higher airflow & quieter fans this week. They're quite audible, as is the color wheel.
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post #1974 of 1978 Old 11-03-2014, 07:51 PM
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I like a good challenge, I like to tinker.
Yes these TVs are a tinkerers delight.

That brilliant PQ aims to please - a tinkerers reward. When you walk into Sams club and your first thought is "Of a hundred TVs on display here, they all look terrible I can't bear to look at a single one...Calgon take me away! (to the cookie aisle)", You've been hit by the videophile bug. A 5676 did it to me, then I got the 67A750 now I'm just spoiled rotton. Local BB has the LG OLED in store display I looked --uh--stared-- at it for about 20 minutes concluded "The PQ on the TV I have now rivals that thing already why would I spend $10 grand on that?!?" If I were watching a LCD at home that OLED probably would have seemed much more impressive.
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post #1975 of 1978 Old 11-03-2014, 10:17 PM
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I wish SED/FED TV's hadn't been killed from lawsuits. We'd probably have the PQ of OLED with the price of LED-LCD now.
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post #1976 of 1978 Old 11-11-2014, 01:08 AM
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I notice a bit of geometry problems when watching 4:3 content, and slightly off at the top and bottom... but I don't notice it when watching stuff, only when having the grid up. To me, it's just as good as my sammy plasma in the other room. The only real issue i noticed is the scaler for SD content, specifically with the composite input. But that can be fixed with a receiver that'll scale composite to hdmi.
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post #1977 of 1978 Old 11-11-2014, 02:14 PM
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I notice a bit of geometry problems when watching 4:3 content, and slightly off at the top and bottom... but I don't notice it when watching stuff, only when having the grid up. To me, it's just as good as my sammy plasma in the other room. The only real issue i noticed is the scaler for SD content, specifically with the composite input. But that can be fixed with a receiver that'll scale composite to hdmi.
I've owned one of these since 2007. Can't complain. Replaced the lamp once & Samsung replaced the micro-chip under warranty even though the set was way out of warranty.

The main issue of this set is geometry distortion. Once purchased, I exchanged the set no fewer than 5 times before finally accepting one that had just a small amount of GD. The main screen is so thin it bows, causing a parabolic look to the image. All one needs to do is put up your on screen menus to see it. Hardly a straight line to be found.

But, overall it was worth waiting to get a good set. The picture quality (color, contrast & sharpness) is great.
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post #1978 of 1978 Old Today, 11:06 AM
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I'm sure this has been covered but I do not have time to read through this entire post.
My HLT6176SX/XAA is very dark even after bulb replacement. Night shots in movies are all but impossible to make out. I am convinced that there is a problem somewhere in the unit itself. The chip was replaced under warranty a couple of years ago but the TV was dark before that as well. Do any of you have any suggestions? Thanks.
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