Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD! - Page 513 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #15361 of 15376 Old 12-22-2016, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by storey13 View Post
I finally got around to replacing the lamp. Bought a OSRAM lamp from dlp lamp source and you were right, it was just the bulb! Hoping I can get another few years from this unit.

Thanks!
I'm glad that fixed it! I hope it works at least until there is a clearly superior replacement for it.

I'm still extremely pleased with mine. I think the nearly complete pixel fill (regardless of color) of SXRD projection makes the image a lot more film-like than a direct view display, where over 2/3rds of the pixel is left black when displaying a primary color. The lack of pixel fill is less noticeable on 4k TVs since the pixels are smaller, but I still think it makes a difference. The trade-off of course is less than perfect geometry (mine is near perfect on the bottom half, and bows in slightly on the top half), and overscan (I think mine is right at 2.5%). Color fade is also supposed to be a factor, but I haven't noticed any yet. My Phillips replacement bulb has a tendency to flicker occasionally, particularly when I have power saving mode on (which is part of my preferred dark room settings). It is minor but annoying, and no worse than flicker present in some film transfers on Blu-ray disc.
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post #15362 of 15376 Old 02-20-2017, 09:22 AM
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I have a 55kds3000 and since its not in the back room and has a great picture we still watch it from time to time.
The other day the bulb blew and I got a replacement and hey it works...but its not right.
When you turn the unit on after 4 or 5 seconds you start to get a picture then it goes black and the power light blinks for 10-15 seconds then the picture starts to appear, very faint at first then it brightens to normal.
one other thing it seems to dim and brighten at times after it gets warmed up.
Is this a bad bulb or did I do something wrong when I replaced it.
I took the bulb out and reinserted it but getting the same thing.

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post #15363 of 15376 Old 04-09-2017, 07:11 PM
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Has anyone ever tested their fan with the lamp removed? Not sure how to test the fan in order to make sure it is cooling the lamp sufficiently. I need to order a new lamp, but do not want to unless I know for fact its being properly cooled. When I first got this TV back in 2008 the fan was clearly audible, but now I cant hear it. Makes me wonder....

EDIT: More info
1. Two lamps popped last week within 3-4 days of each other. However, both lamps were old with maximum hours on them. First one popped on Wednesday and then the second Philips lamp popped on Saturday three days later. Not getting cooled or just time for it to pop?

2. I can physically see the fan turning, but I can't hear it which makes me think that maybe, just maybe the RPM is too low for proper cooling. Buying another $70 to $90 lamp for it to just go pop days later would be tragic.

3. Are these fans just like any 120mm PC fan? If so, I have plenty of them and especially good ones, such as my award winning Gentle Typhoons. Maybe I can pop in a super good PC fan for superior lamp cooling??? lol just an idea.

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post #15364 of 15376 Old 04-11-2017, 01:11 PM
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^ I don't know if the fan will operate without a lamp installed, or when the TV detects a failed lamp. The fan will continue to run for a few minutes after the TV is shut off. On my 60A3000 the airflow from the fan is definitely audible near the lamp housing. With everything else quiet it can be heard in front of the television as well. It's not all that loud. I'm sure they designed it to be as quiet as reasonably possible.

There is a "Cooling Mode" setting under "General Settings" that is supposed to be turned on if the TV is being used at a 5000 foot or greater elevation. I have never turned it on because my TV is at less than 1000 feet. I'm guessing that it changes some of the fan parameters (fan speed, duration of fan operation after lamp shutdown, etc.). I'm pretty sure that it increases the fan speed, and that should be audible.

I don't recall reading any fan issues in the past posts here, particularly issues of the fan slowing down.

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post #15365 of 15376 Old 04-11-2017, 04:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
^ I don't know if the fan will operate without a lamp installed, or when the TV detects a failed lamp. The fan will continue to run for a few minutes after the TV is shut off. On my 60A3000 the airflow from the fan is definitely audible near the lamp housing. With everything else quiet it can be heard in front of the television as well. It's not all that loud. I'm sure they designed it to be as quiet as reasonably possible.

There is a "Cooling Mode" setting under "General Settings" that is supposed to be turned on if the TV is being used at a 5000 foot or greater elevation. I have never turned it on because my TV is at less than 1000 feet. I'm guessing that it changes some of the fan parameters (fan speed, duration of fan operation after lamp shutdown, etc.). I'm pretty sure that it increases the fan speed, and that should be audible.

I don't recall reading any fan issues in the past posts here, particularly issues of the fan slowing down.
Wow, thanks for the information. I also managed to get a reply from Robert who rebuilds these optical blocks for these TV's but he didn't seem to know if these fans go bad or not, or if a standard PC fan would work in its place. He told me he has plenty of Sony Fans if I need to buy one. All I wanted to know was if the 3 wires were proprietary (like Dell fans) for Sony TV use only, or if they are standard PC fans that Sony uses. But again he didn't seem to know.

In my settings on the 55A3000 I only ever seen the low and high cooling modes, which I always left it on high ever since 2008. My altitude is 7300 feet though. Either I am not as sensitive to the fan noise after a decade OR the rpm on this fan has lowered considerably. Either way I have to assume the 1850 RPM Gentle Typhoon would be a much better fan for keeping this lamp cool. It's not as if I will hear a PC fan inside the TV since my PC sits 12" from the TV anyway, and it already has half a dozen fans in it, lol.

In regards to operation without a lamp. No, it will not turn on as I just verified this fact today. So I have to wait for the new Philips lamp to arrive before I can proceed.

Thanks again for the reply.
Rod
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post #15366 of 15376 Old 04-30-2017, 03:10 PM
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Hello,

I have the KDS-50A3000. Yesterday I finally decided to try going into the service menu to reduce the overscan, which I did successfully. I'm wondering if there are any other "easy" service menu adjustments that people have done. My TV is still going strong but it is showing its age. I would not mind improved black levels if that is possible. I saw some links to the service manual from a couple years ago, but that link no longer works. Does anyone have a working link still?

Thanks!
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post #15367 of 15376 Old 04-30-2017, 08:47 PM
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Hello,

I have the KDS-50A3000. Yesterday I finally decided to try going into the service menu to reduce the overscan, which I did successfully.
Wow, you can reduce Overscan on this unit? Could you please share that information? Please...

Last week I installed a new original Philips OEM Lamp and almost forgot how nice this picture is (last lamp was a cheap Osram). Removing any overscan could potentially improve the PQ even further I would think. Its only 5% if I remember correctly but still. I thought the overscan was built into the hardware itself, not something that could be changed.

Again, please share this information on how I can remove overscan. Thanks.

Mine is the 55A3000
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post #15368 of 15376 Old 05-01-2017, 11:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post
Wow, you can reduce Overscan on this unit? Could you please share that information? Please...

Last week I installed a new original Philips OEM Lamp and almost forgot how nice this picture is (last lamp was a cheap Osram). Removing any overscan could potentially improve the PQ even further I would think. Its only 5% if I remember correctly but still. I thought the overscan was built into the hardware itself, not something that could be changed.

Again, please share this information on how I can remove overscan. Thanks.

Mine is the 55A3000
Basically, this link

In short:

Service Menu:
With TV ON, press:
Power -> Display -> 5 -> Volume Up -> Power

Navigation:
Press Jump to change menus
2 & 5 change sections
1 & 4 cycle through different options
3 & 6 change settings
Press Mute and then 0 to confirm
Press 0 then enter to cancel (I think)

To get to the overscan settings specifically:
Access the service menu
Then press Jump until BEM shows up on the top left
Then press 5 until you get to menu 047
The big settings to adjust are 000 and 001:
000 HOVERSCN_L 50
001 VOVERSCN_L 50

I think I changed them from 50 to 20. A lot of content assumes a certain amount of overscan and I ran into issues at 15, so I left it at 20.

If you adjust those values and find that the right side is having border issues, adjust
002 HOVERSCN_R 50
003 VOVERSCN_R 50

It doesn't hurt to change that to 0 from the beginning I think.

Press mute and then press 0 to confirm changes. You can turn it off and then turn it back on to make sure it works.

Reducing overscan helped me to fix one of the annoyances I have with my TV (which is showing its age). I'd still like to improve the black levels a bit, though maybe that's unrealistic.
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post #15369 of 15376 Old Yesterday, 12:53 AM
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Thank you very much fanerman,

Considering these were all set at 50, can I safely assume these numbers are in percentages and thus each number down or up changes both horizontal and vertical equally the same? That is my guess, thus 20 instead of 50 maybe something like 2% instead of 5% cut off. Just a guess.

I am using a SHIELD TV and it has a built in overscan adjustment, however since I used it a long time ago I have messed up the original 1080p scale. So I may need to connect the PC again so I can see and adjust this to a virgin 1920x1080 output. However, since I also have a direcTV box connected (ONLY for NFL) I will have to wait for NFL season to see how football games perform on this new setting.

Do you think a setting of 0 on all four of these produces 1:1 perhaps? I read somewhere that this is impossible on this set, but I can't imagine that being the case. 99.9% of all my content viewing is from the SHIELD TV on HDMI 1, so I would think 1:1 would be the prefered mode for me.
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post #15370 of 15376 Old Yesterday, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post
Do you think a setting of 0 on all four of these produces 1:1 perhaps? I read somewhere that this is impossible on this set, but I can't imagine that being the case. 99.9% of all my content viewing is from the SHIELD TV on HDMI 1, so I would think 1:1 would be the prefered mode for me.
The default settings in the service menu should produce 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080 sources when used in combination with a "Display Area" setting (under "Screen Settings") of "Normal." What is impossible is getting both 1:1 pixel mapping and no overscan at the same time. The optical system of the TV results the entire 1080 x 1920 pixel image produced on the SXRD chips being projected slightly larger than the screen, which gives about 5% overscan. The optical system would have to be physically altered (such as with a zoom lens) to change this. The overscan is intentional, as it hides geometric irregularities in the optical system. (Mine bows in slightly on the upper half of the image.) Removing the overscan in the service menu, (or the "Display Area" setting) is accomplished by scaling the image being sent to the SXRD chips to less than 1080 x 1920 pixels thus destroying the 1:1 pixel mapping.
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post #15371 of 15376 Old Yesterday, 05:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanerman View Post
Hello,

I have the KDS-50A3000. Yesterday I finally decided to try going into the service menu to reduce the overscan, which I did successfully. I'm wondering if there are any other "easy" service menu adjustments that people have done. My TV is still going strong but it is showing its age. I would not mind improved black levels if that is possible. I saw some links to the service manual from a couple years ago, but that link no longer works. Does anyone have a working link still?

Thanks!
There was quite a bit of info about service menu settings and adjustments in this thread: Sony KDS-XXA3000<< Settings/Tweaks thread - OWNERS ONLY!

I don't believe there is anything in the service menu that will improve the black levels. I think the fix for that was opening the set and installing black velvet inside it to reduce light reflection. There was a setting that cleared up the magenta/purple hueing that otherwise occurs on 1080 single pixel test patterns with 1:1 pixel mapping. It also disables the fine convergence, which I believe is unnecessary. The fine convergence settings blur the primary colors across 2 pixels in order to achieve apparent convergence at the cost of true resolution. They don't do anything to truly correct any optical mis-convergance. On my set the true optical convergence is excellent. It amazes me that they got such perfect convergence from the 3 tiny SXRD chips.

Some of the discussion I had about it is around the post linked below:
Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD!
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post #15372 of 15376 Old Yesterday, 11:09 AM
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Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
The default settings in the service menu should produce 1:1 pixel mapping for 1080 sources when used in combination with a "Display Area" setting (under "Screen Settings") of "Normal." What is impossible is getting both 1:1 pixel mapping and no overscan at the same time. The optical system of the TV results the entire 1080 x 1920 pixel image produced on the SXRD chips being projected slightly larger than the screen, which gives about 5% overscan. The optical system would have to be physically altered (such as with a zoom lens) to change this. The overscan is intentional, as it hides geometric irregularities in the optical system. (Mine bows in slightly on the upper half of the image.) Removing the overscan in the service menu, (or the "Display Area" setting) is accomplished by scaling the image being sent to the SXRD chips to less than 1080 x 1920 pixels thus destroying the 1:1 pixel mapping.
Thank you KC-Technerd,

As many guides recommend, would you too recommend that I reduce overscan as much as possible for fixed resolution digital outputs such as my SHIELD TV and PC? What would happen if I use "Normal" mode (currently on FULL) and then reduce overscan settings down to 0? Would the picture quality be at its best possible by doing that?

About "Normal" mode. Normal produces all text to be squished really badly (not normal at all lol), and the scaling tool arrows on the SHIELD TV, L and R scaling arrows are nearly a foot from the edges, while the top and bottom arrows are perfectly on edge target. ONLY "FULL" mode makes the scaling arrows point to the edges perfectly of the screen. So perhaps you meant "FULL" mode was the 1:1 setting? Not sure how large black bars on the Left/Right sides can be considered 1:1. Maybe I fail at understanding what 1:1 is, is that like saying 16:9? If so, then I now understand it. But who can use 1:1 with giant black bars on both sides of the screen and a picture that is squished?

I'm just looking for the absolute best possible PQ without losing any video data in true digital 1080p content. I'm guessing removing as much Overscan is still the answer to the best possible PQ?

Oh and yes, how in the heck did Sony get such great convergence on tiny separate chips is a mystery that has baffled me for a decade now. That was some amazing engineering there.
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post #15373 of 15376 Old Yesterday, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanerman View Post
Reducing overscan helped me to fix one of the annoyances I have with my TV (which is showing its age). I'd still like to improve the black levels a bit, though maybe that's unrealistic.
Thought you would want to know what a setting of 0 did for me. I set all four settings to 0 (the R ones seemed to do nothing). Then I did a factory reset on the shield tv in order to remove any scale settings I may have set. This should give me a true 1080 signal from the shield, or so you would think. Then I immediately went into the Overscan menu to check on the green arrows (triangles) to see how far off Overscan truly is. Now it appears to be only about maybe 1% on all sides.

So, I fired up the Youtube app and it still perfectly fills the screen. Below are pics of the Overscan scaling app on the SHIELD TV. All I have to do now is remove that 1% by reducing the scale in the shield itself. That should be as much picture as I can fit onto this SXRD screen?

Now to worry about DirecTV NFL games come NFL season. But that is still months away. Thanks again for the information.




Last edited by SkOrPn; Yesterday at 12:59 PM. Reason: adding pics
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post #15374 of 15376 Old Today, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KC-Technerd View Post
There was quite a bit of info about service menu settings and adjustments in this thread: Sony KDS-XXA3000<< Settings/Tweaks thread - OWNERS ONLY!

I don't believe there is anything in the service menu that will improve the black levels. I think the fix for that was opening the set and installing black velvet inside it to reduce light reflection. There was a setting that cleared up the magenta/purple hueing that otherwise occurs on 1080 single pixel test patterns with 1:1 pixel mapping. It also disables the fine convergence, which I believe is unnecessary. The fine convergence settings blur the primary colors across 2 pixels in order to achieve apparent convergence at the cost of true resolution. They don't do anything to truly correct any optical mis-convergance. On my set the true optical convergence is excellent. It amazes me that they got such perfect convergence from the 3 tiny SXRD chips.

Some of the discussion I had about it is around the post linked below:
Official Sony KDS-XXA3000 OWNERS THREAD!
Thanks for the link. I took another look at adjusting the overscan and I think I do see non 1:1 mapping when I've changed the overscan away from the defaults. That's a bummer for me, but I guess 1:1 mapping is much more important than reducing overscan. I'll look through that tweaks thread to see if there's anything I might find interesting. Thanks again!
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post #15375 of 15376 Old Today, 01:02 AM
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Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post
Thank you KC-Technerd,

As many guides recommend, would you too recommend that I reduce overscan as much as possible for fixed resolution digital outputs such as my SHIELD TV and PC? What would happen if I use "Normal" mode (currently on FULL) and then reduce overscan settings down to 0? Would the picture quality be at its best possible by doing that?
For any 1080 source, I believe that the best picture quality is achieved by maintaining 1:1 pixel mapping. Scaling the image smaller in order to reduce overscan makes it impossible to maintain maximum resolution as each display pixel must share some information between image pixels. The "Normal" setting I'm referring to is under "Display Area" with the options of +1/Normal/-1/-2. I think you are confusing this with the "Normal" setting for "Wide Mode" "Auto Wide" or "4:3 Default".

Quote:
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About "Normal" mode. Normal produces all text to be squished really badly (not normal at all lol), and the scaling tool arrows on the SHIELD TV, L and R scaling arrows are nearly a foot from the edges, while the top and bottom arrows are perfectly on edge target. ONLY "FULL" mode makes the scaling arrows point to the edges perfectly of the screen. So perhaps you meant "FULL" mode was the 1:1 setting? Not sure how large black bars on the Left/Right sides can be considered 1:1. Maybe I fail at understanding what 1:1 is, is that like saying 16:9? If so, then I now understand it. But who can use 1:1 with giant black bars on both sides of the screen and a picture that is squished?
Again, I think you are confusing where I'm suggesting the "Normal" setting. However I generally suggest setting the "Wide Mode" to "Normal" and "Auto Wide" to "On." I'm not familiar with the SHIELD TV, so I'm not sure if it correctly flags 16:9 when the source material is 4:3 with 480i resolution. If the image appears squished it may not be sending the correct flag to the TV with 480i signal. In other words the image is a 16:9 image, but is being displayed on the TV as 4:3. If this is the case then you may need to manually select "Full" under "Wide Mode." (When I have the TV on again I'll verify these settings.) If the source is a 4:3 image, then it should have the black bars on the sides on the TV, unless you are trying to stretch and distort it to fill the screen. There may also be options on the SHIELD TV of sending native resolution, or allowing it to up convert everything to 1080 which will affect this. Make sure at least that the SHIELD TV is outputting 1080 (P if it is capable of that) when the source is 1080. 1080 and 720 input to the TV should always automatically format to 16:9 "FULL" on the TV with no black bars on the side (unless the source contains a 4:3 image on 1080 or 720, such as the "Star Trek: The Next Generation" Blu-ray discs or older movies).

1:1 pixel mapping only applies when the TV is receiving a 1080 picture. It means that each pixel in the image is being displayed by its own individual pixel on the imaging chip of the TV. When you don't have 1:1 pixel mapping, the scaling processor in the TV (a computer) is having to interpolate between pixels to create the image. It's a little difficult to explain without illustration. The effects of this can be seen here if you view the image full size: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1:1_pixel_mapping.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post
I'm just looking for the absolute best possible PQ without losing any video data in true digital 1080p content. I'm guessing removing as much Overscan is still the answer to the best possible PQ?
The best possible PQ without losing any video data in true digital 1080p content is going to be with 1:1 pixel mapping. The purpose of removing as much overscan as possible is to see the entire image from edge to edge, and you will sacrifice image resolution in the process. Maintaining 1:1 pixel mapping will maximize the resolution of a 1080p image, but you will sacrifice the edges of the image. (They will be beyond the edges of the screen.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by SkOrPn View Post
Oh and yes, how in the heck did Sony get such great convergence on tiny separate chips is a mystery that has baffled me for a decade now. That was some amazing engineering there.
Yes, I found that I had made a note that I found mine to be no more than about 1/3 pixel misaligned anywhere on the screen.
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post #15376 of 15376 Old Today, 01:31 PM
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Thank you again KC-Technerd,

Unfortunately I can't use "Normal" on my TV. Either we have a different TV, or different Firmware. If I use Normal my TV puts all sources to a square, something that looks like 4:3 but actually crushes the 16:9 source into a square shape. I tried it on three different PC's, on my WDTV Live, two different Roku's, Three different Bluray Players, one Wetek player, several Chinese Android boxes and now my SHIELD TV. Only "FULL" mode gives me a full 16:9 screen. All other modes do something to the source that is unacceptable, on my TV at least. My service menu is currently on Sony defaults too, and all sources of video are set to 1080p/59.940 or 60Hz. The SHIELD doesn't offer anything but 1080p because it uses only the native resolution of the display it's attached to. For example all resolutions that Youtube sends to the unit is upscaled by the SHIELD itself. My TV doesnt switch resolutions unless I am using either Kodi or some other app that auto switches to the best res. Plex will switch from 59.940Hz to 24Hz (24p) if I play a movie, but it never changes from 1080, unless of course I play a ripped DVD which is so very rare I can't even remember what it does, lol.

And yes I now see the "Normal" you were referring too under Display Area, and yes it has always been on "Normal" in the "Display Area". However, under "Wide Mode" it must be set to "FULL" or I can't use the TV for anything at all. I am on different firmware though, maybe, because Sony sent me a USB drive many years ago for some reason and I updated the Firmware with it, lol.

Anyway I put the service menu back to defaults because you said this was 1:1. Unless 1:1 is dependant on "Wide Mode>Normal" then I can't use it because that produces a nearly foot wide black bars on the sides, as seen in the below images.

Your recommended "Normal" mode. The tips of the green arrows represent the very edge of all 1080 source output which is currently outputting 1080p/59.940.


The "Full" mode I have been using.



Have any idea why ours is different? And do you think my FULL is 1:1? Thanks for all the input buddy, really nice to see someone still around sharing knowledge and ideas on such an old set. Thank you for that.
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